Preface
. Why has this book been written ? First, every one who travels ought to write down his obser vations, if he does not wish to lose four-fifths of the knowledge which he acquires ; next, what has given one person pleasure when seen, may give others pleasure when described ; and each traveller has his own manner of observing, sees old scenes under new circumstances, and has a circle of friends who would feel some curiosity to examine his par ticular narrative. For these latter reasons, some persons probably who would leave better books on Switzerland unnoticed, may honor this work with a perusal. Above all, the present state of the Swiss Churches is such as to merit the particular study of those who feel an interest in the progress of the Gospel ; and
PREFACE.
. the pohtical questions which now agitate the Cantons may lead to consequences so extensive, that they de mand the attention of every thoughtful person in Europe. Hornsey, Bee. 20, 1847. TABLE OP CONTENTS.
Chapter I. Geneva
View from the Jura, 1. Journey from Paris, 2. A youth drowned in the Rhone, 4. A youth killed on the Saleve, 5. Late revolution, 5. Population of the city, 6. Protestants and Catholics, 6. State of the National Church, 7. Presange, 9. Peace in Death, 13. Christian brethren at Geneva, 15. Union of the Church with the State, 16. Evangelical Society, 23.
Chapter II Chamouni
Bonneville, 29. Valley of Maglan, 30. Sallenche, 31. Catholic prayers, 32. Savoy char-a-banc, 35. St. Gervais, 36. Lake of Chede, 37. Valley of Servoz, 38. Frederic Eschen, 39. Glacier de Bossons, 40. Chamouni, 41. Ascent of Montanvert, 41. Mer de Glace, 42. Preservation of Paccard, 53. Farewell to Cha mouni, 54. Michael Paccard, 55. Anecdote of the Nant Noire, 56. Views of Mont Blanc from Sallenche, 58. Arrest of Dr. Malan at Sallenche, GO. Apparition of the Queen of Heaven, G4. Wares in Sallenche market, 68. VI CONTENTS.
Chapter III. Canton De Vaud
Hotel des Bergues, 71. Sunday evening social worship in the hotel, 74. Junction of Rhone and Arve, 75. Visit to Dr. Merle D'Aubigne, 76. Voyage to Vevey, 77. Vevey and the neighborhood, 79. Visit to Chillon, 83. Table d'hote at Vevey, 88. View of the Valais, 89. Catastrophe at Bex, 91. Grave of Vinet, 91. Arrival at Lausanne, 92. Remarks on Gibbon, 93.
Chapter IV. Free Church Of Vaud
The National Church subject to the State, 95. Composition of the State, 99. Recent ecclesiastical events in Vaud, 109. Recent persecutions of the Christians, 119. Decrees of the Council of State against religious meetings, 124. The secession, 127. For mation of the Free Church, 130. Renewed persecutions, 134.
Chapter V. Friburg And Berne
Journey from Lausanne to Friburg, 140. Friburg, 142. The Jesuits, 142. Journey to Berne, 145. Bernese Government, 147. Col. Ochsenbein, 148. Affair of Zeller, 149. Spirit of the Govern ment, 152. Secession of M. Wattevelle from the Establishment, 153. Christians ought to leave it, 153. Swiss politics, 155. Views of the Catholic cantons, 156. Views of the liberals, 157. Berne, 160. View of Bernese Alps, 161.
Chapter VI. The Oberland
Sketch of the journey from London to Interlachen, 163. Position of Interlachen, 165. Journey from Berne to that place, 167. Drive CONTENTS. VII to Lanterbrunnen, 16S. Wengern Alp, 169. Stanbach, 170. The Jungfrau, 171. Descent to Grindelwald, 172. Upper Glacier, 173. Aime Mouron, 175. Lower Glacier, 175. The Oberland ice-field, 176. Return to Interlachen, 177. Departure from Interlachen, 182. The Griesbach, 183. Brienz, 183. Vale of Meyringen, 183. The Reichenbach, 184. Calvin and Servetus, 185. Free Church of Scotland, 191.
Chapter VII. Lake Of Lucerne
Pass of the Brunig, 193. Lakes of Lungern and Sarnen, 194. The Kaisertuhl, 195. Saxeln, 196. Bruder Klaus, 196. His skeleton, 199. Alpnach to Lucerne, 199. Ascent of the Righi from Weggis, 201. Arch of cloud, 202. Storm on the lake, 203. Village inn, 205. Cathedral of Lucerne, 206. English service, 207. Visit to Brunnen, 208. William Tell and his companions, 20S. Vespers at Brunnen, 211. Second ascent of the Righi from Weggis, 213. Chapel of the Holy Cross, 213. Evening at the Righi Culm, 217. View from the Righi, 219. Earth-slip from Mont Rossberg, 220. Embarkation at Weggis, 222. Lord Minto's embassy to the Pope, 222. Lake Uri, 222. View from Lucerne, 223. Nuncio of the Pope, 224.
Chapter VIII. Zurich And The Grisons
Journey to Zurich, 226. Bernese coachman, 227. Church at Baar, 230. Sun-rise on Mont Albis, 233. Descent to Zurich, 236. Visit to Pfeffers, 237. Bank of Sargans, 239. Arrival at Ragaz, 240. Ravine of the Tamina, 240. Baths of Pfeffers, 241. Cavern of the Tamina, 241. Journey to the Via Mala, 243. The Via Mala, 245. The Grisons, 250. Chapel at Katzis, 251. Louis Philippe at Reichenau, 253. Coire, 254. The Valet and the Waiter at Ragaz, 255. Return to Zurich, 250. Youth, rank, and for tune, 258. CONTENTS.
Chapter IX. Zurich And Basle
An observant traveller, 260. Dining comfortably, 262. Zurich, 265. Library, 266. The present Government, 267. Union of Church aud State, 267. The thraldom of the pastors, 269. Ac count of Mr. Hesse, 271. Duty of Christians at Zurich, 273. Journey to Basle, 273. Castle of Habsburg. 274. The Rhine at Stein, 275. Crucifixes of Argovie, 276. Religion in Argovie, 277. Basle Cathedral, 277. Public library, 278. Missionary college, 279. Chapel in the hotel of the Three Kings, 280. Concluding remarks, 281.
Appendix
. Visit to some of the Stations of the French Evangelical Society, 287. NOTES OF A TOUB IN SWITZERLAND.
Chapter I. Geneva
On Friday, September 6th, 1821, from the summit of the Jura mountains, I saw the Alps for the first time. Every moment, as the road wound round each obstructing eminence, we were expecting them to burst upon us; and at length a beloved brother, who, with elastic tread and bounding heart preceded the carriage, exclaimed, "there they are:" and there they were. The Jura forests, down which we were descending, the whole enchanting valley before us, the wide-spread lake, with the sloping banks of grass and scattered trees descending to its margin, the vil lages scattered over the land, with the towers of the distant city, reposed in the sunshine. Beyond the lake the mountains looked black and stormy, beneath B GENEVA. the shadow of a long line of clouds, which lay hori zontally above their heads.
Out of this shadowy sea rose naked pinnacles and sharp spires of granite, so steep that neither verdure nor snow could rest upon them ; and higher than all, hke another world, ethe real, brilliant, alone in its surpassing glory, towered the snowy summit of Mont Blanc. Twenty-six years had scarcely impaired the impressions of that hour, and with eager hope to gaze on that glorious scene again, I quitted Paris for Geneva, on Monday, August 24th, 1847, with three members of my family. Tbe road does not afford much occasion for obser vation. We passed unnoticed the dead men's bones and other rehcs in the cathedral of Sens : we were jolted on the execrable pavee ; we repeatedly stopped to put new bolts and screws to the tortured carriage ; were cheated at Melun ; well lodged at Dijon ; came into the region of vines and Indian corn ; discussed the comparative condition of the women of England, who become as weak and washy as their tea in their poor cottages, and the women of that poor part of France, who work hke men in the fields ; and at length, on Wednesday evening, August 25, reached Poligny, at the foot of the Jura, hoping next day to gaze on the glittering dome of the highest mountain in Europe.
But our sky was not settled : a bright and picturesque cloud, which had reflected the colours of the setting sun, and seemed like a celestial city, on whose luminous battlements angels might sit delighted and look dowui upon this fair world, be- JOURNEY FROM PARIS. came, as night advanced, livid as death ; and hanging over the Jura range, began to discharge upon them its flashes of fierce lightning ; just as a man who, once smiling and good tempered in prosperity, has grown misanthropic under adverse circumstances, and darts his execrations upon all beneath his influence. During the night the storms gathered ; clouds hung all the next day upon the heights to our right and left ; and when we descended towards Geneva, the magnificent scene which had often filled our imagi nations along the road, was to us as though it existed not.
The misty Voirons, and Saleve across the lake, were the utmost boundary of our view. We had crossed the Jura in vain — and yet not wholly in vain — for first our disappointment served to remind us that, travelling as we are to the celestial city, it is cheering to catch even distant views of its glory ; but unbehef, like those mists which now hid Mont Blanc from our view, may hide it from our sight, rendering our homeward journey tedious and gloomy ; and secondly, we now for the first time called into exercise a rule which we laid down for ourselves in our journey, never to fret at the loss of any anticipated enjoyment, but to receive thankfully those which might remain. We still looked, therefore, with pleasure on the rich woods, the ample lake, and the cultivated vale before us, terminated by its moun tain barriers ; and entered thankfully, long after night fall, the cheerful Hotel des Bergues, at Geneva.
Scarcely any view, in the neighbourhood of a city, can be more attractive than that from the windows b2 GENEVA. of the Bergues. At your feet is the bright broad rapid Rhone, blue as the sky over your head, transparent as crystal, hurrying to the ocean. On its banks are lines of handsome buildings, backed by the turrets and roofs of the upper city. On either side are environs of the richest verdure, woods and bright villas, and gentle cultivated slopes. Behind these, to the south-west, two guardian mountains, the Voirons to the left, and the Saleve to the right, which stand as sentinels at the opening of the great valley of the Arve. Between these and more distant is the Mole, a conical mountain of some height, and then, above them all, Alps rise on Alps, among which Mont Blanc glitters in the sun.
Such a scene seems made for piety and peace : that river seems formed to bear on its ample tide boat-loads of happy beings, families which are peaceful as the sunny lake, young hearts which bound like those dancing waters ; and the smiling land seems made to be the abode of a free, simple, united, and pious people, rejoicing in God, whose gifts have been so ample to them. But painful recollections gather thickly round that bright city, and hover over the blue rushing tide. Only a week before we gazed with delight on that river, it looked remorseless as an assassin to a dear friend of mine, whom it bereaved of his only child. His son was floating upon its surface ; the current was too strong for him ; his boat, being hurried beneath the bridge, was upset, and he perished. They had quitted England to give him pleasure, and they left him in Switzerland a corpse.
RHONE AND SALEVE. Thanks be to God, they sorrow not as those without hope, for their son had given satisfactory proofs that he was born again of the Spirit : faith gave them blessed support, they were able to honor God in their trouble, they cheered the hearts of their Swiss brethren by their resignation; and though he has sent them this great trial, he has not forgotten his pro mise to his children, "All tilings shall work together for good to them that love God." About the same time the Saleve too, which seemed to us so attractive when its blue summit appeared through the rent vapours which had obscured it, or when small fleecy clouds sailed over its dappled flank, had lured a joyous young heart to its destruction. On its cultivated side some laborers heard agonizing cries of distress far up on the cliffs above them, borne to them by the gusts of wind.
They could see nothing. Again the cries floated down the wind : and then all was hushed. A Genevese youth had climbed to see, from its summit, the gorgeous spectacle of the Alps, which stretch from west to the east and south-east, when on the edge of the cliff his foot slipped, and he fell. Clinging for some time, it seems, to a tree midway down, he hung over the precipice, with the frowning rock above, and wirh death beneath him. No help came, his strength failed, and he was found at the base of the cliff dead. There were also worse spectacles upon that bright river's margin but a few months since. Along the wall which confines the stream on its right bank was the insurgent population of the Quartier St. Gervais crouch- GENEVA. ing, while upon the bridge a christian friend of mine was leading his company beneath a murderous fire to dislodge them : the city was the prey of civil discord, and a revolution had burst upon the Government hke a thunder-storm.
Quiet is restored now ; but there are longer evils than a popular tumult which sadden a christian spectator there. The doctrine of the gos pel, which in that city Calvin maintained with a force of intellect and of character rarely equalled, so that streams of evangehcal light flowed forth from Geneva over Europe, has now been generally abandoned. Rousseau is more to the modern Genevese than Calvin: the deist is honoured, the reformer is de cried. Nor has the canton apparently yet reached its lowest humiliation ; for although it has long lost its evangehcal earnestness, it has still been Protestant, but now this its last honor seems falling from its palsied grasp. The population of the canton is about 60,000, of which the city contains 32,000. Within the city about 7000 only are Roman Catholics ; but around it the large majority of the peasants are Savoyards, who have been within a few years added to the population, and profess that creed.
The city is flourishing. In dustrious, frugal, and well governed, they thrive. About 100,000 watches are annually manufactured in its workshops ; it has a considerable trade in jewel lery ; its inhabitants are busy with printing, hat-making, the manufacture of silk and woollen shawls, tan nery, calico-printing, and twine-spinning ; its fisheries are considerable, and in summer thousands of stran- PROGRESS OF ROMANISM. gers flock into it. Hence hands are wanted ; and as the Vaud is thriving too, numbers of laborers and artisans are recruited from the poor adjacent de partments of France and the still poorer valleys of Savoy. AU these new settlers are Catholics ; and as the full rights of citizens are easily and speedily ac quired, and few of the settlers ever leave their adopted country, the proportion of Protestants to Roman Ca tholics becomes annually less and less.
Hence a nu merical majority of Roman Catholics, at no distant day, seems inevitable ; and a numerical majority, according to the present constitution, must determine the whole aspect of the government : for the canton is governed by a Great Council, and a Council of State ; both these are chosen by the people ; and as the suffrage is universal, a Roman Catholic majority in a few years will return two Roman Catholic Councils, and both the legislative and executive Go vernment of the once Protestant Geneva will be again in servitude to the Pope. But Geneva is not lost to Protestantism yet ; there are some Christians there still, and if the task of reviving the rehgion of their country is arduous, their difficulties are less than they were. Under the late Government the Geneva church was governed by the Company of pastors, who nominated the pastors of the whole canton.
The majority of these were worldly men, with Unitarian opinions, who took care to appoint pastors of their own views, so that not more than three or four of the national church were evangelical men ; and yet the sober part GENEVA. of the community were so attached to their Estabhsh ment, corrupt as it was, that they would not listen to any dissenter from it. But the late revolution hav ing overturned the ecclesiastical as well as the civil government, the Company of pastors, who have long persecuted the gospel, have lost their power to perse cute. Henceforth the Geneva church is to be go verned by a consistory chosen by the people. But this new ecclesiastical court will be less powerful than the Company, since the pastors who were appointed by the Company are now to be elected by the parishes.
Scarcely any ai*rangement could promise a worse choice of pastors ; since the ministers of Christ are to be chosen by the populace. Every citizen has a right, without profession of faith, without belief in revelation, without examination, without morality even, to declare himself a member of the national church, and to give his voice in the election of parochial ministers. No one can say now what the doctrine of the Ge nevese church may be. It has no creed; it does not own the Bible ; it offers no test to its ministers ; and it is therefore a christian church without even the pro fession of Christianity. Can Christians endure this state of things ? Habit, prejudice, sloth, timidity, self interest, and other criminal infirmities, might make them cling to the old arrangement, though they saw year by year the Venerable Company armed with state power, repressing the gospel; and the parishes, perverted by their legal pastors, opposed to spiritual rehgion.
And they would have probably supported it still ; but this new mischief, this upstart abuse, this STATE OF THE NATIONAL CHURCH. plebeian disregard of all spiritual discipline, will pro bably force almost all the Christians of the Establish ment to assert their own hberty of thought and action. Two things may be expected which are urgently required by the churches of Christ throughout Europe — separation from the world, and union with each other. There are Christians at Geneva who must feel it to be an intolerable evil that an ungodly Govern ment should order, as they have done, all the pastors of the canton to be chosen by a populace as ungodly as themselves ; and they will say, let us have our own pastors : let the sweepings of the cabarets and the communists have the teachers whom they like; but the churches of Christ must not submit to such degrada tion.
And when the churches of Geneva shall at length be free from the trammels of an irreligious go vernment, an irreligious populace, and an irreligious clergy, they may effect, with the blessing of God, as great a change in then* city as that which was effected by Calvin, Farel, Beza, and then* associates. At this moment they have great hberty of action. The new constitution recognizes, as the French charter does, the right of each person to profess what religion he chooses, and to claim for himself the protection of the State. Dissent is no longer a legal offence ; and throughout the canton Christians may distribute the Scriptures and other christian books as they please. The value of that liberty is more apparent, from its contrast with the despotic bigotry which prevails within a few miles of the city.
Saturday, August 28, we visited Colonel Tronchin, at Presange, near Cob3 GENEVA. ligny, a few miles from Geneva, on the south shore of the lake. From a tower in his grounds you may look over the smiling canton, which hberty has made so industrious and so thriving, where stdl the disci ples of Christ may preach the gospel, and freely dis tribute his word. But towards the Voirons, the Mole, and Mont Blanc, which form the southern boundary to the fine view, you can see a spot where the liberty to preach the gospel ceases ; and thence the eye wanders over a beautiful but melancholy extent of territory, throughout which the priestly and the civil despots of the land proscribe the use of Bibles. The King of Sardinia, with his army of priests, takes no pains to remove the penury, ignorance, and dirt of his subjects : their goitres and their idiotcy, in alli ance with mental slavery and abject superstition, receive no repression from him : but he carefully makes war with the distribution of the scriptures, and would in stantly deport to the frontier, or hurry to prison, any faithful preacher of the gospel.
The extensive view from the tower of Presange, which has now much celebrity, brings visitors of all kinds to the place ; and Colonel Tronchin has set a good example of christian ze*51, by providing that all his visitors, of whatever rank or faith, should have the offer of at least one evangehcal tract. Few, if any, refuse it ; and multitudes have thus had the op portunity of learning a summary of the gospel, who would not else ever have heard it. Near the tower is an establishment which Colonel Tronchin has formed for convalescents : persons who have just escaped from PRESANGE. a severe illness are often unfit to resume their accus tomed labors at once, and when discharged from a hospital, or restored by medical skill in their own close dwelling in the city, would benefit greatly by rest and country air.
For this class Colonel Tronchin has raised this asylum, which has already been useful to many, and may have given rise to our institutions of a similar kind at Stoke Newington, Carshalton, and elsewhere. The matron is a pious woman ; well-chosen scriptural tracts adorn the walls ; there is daily fa nnly prayer ; and Colonel Tronchin often comes and speaks a httle to the inmates. Thus, while the clean and airy rooms, the fine climate, the beautiful views, and good food, tend to restore the feeble to spirits and health, the religious exercises and christian tone of the institution tend to awaken desires after salvation. The institution is open to decent persons of any creed, who are invited but not obhged to attend daily worship. This seems to me an enlightened and pious regulation. Poor persons ought not to be refused aid in calamity because they are unconverted; and all exercises of religion ought to be spontaneous and hearty.
Under this arrangement, nearly all the inmates do unite in worship; and they do it heartily and freely. Even when direct instruction is refused by any persons, the scriptures inscribed upon the walls, the texts which lie in the rooms, the occasional words of piety from Colo nel Tronchin or others who visit the establishment, and the rehgious tone which prevails in the whole admi nistration, may act with power upon their hearts. A young woman who entered the establishment was so b4 GENEVA. scrupulous a Catholic, that she refused to join in any worship, and carefully avoided Colonel and Mrs. Tronchin when they came : before, however, she left the establishment she had bought a Bible, and had heard the way of salvation explained, at least inciden tally. Yet her prejudice was so far from being sub dued, that when weak health forced her again to seek the benefits of the asylum, she again systematically refused to receive any rehgious instruction.
In that temper she ended her second abode at the institu tion. Some time after a messenger from Geneva en treated Colonel Tronchin to visit a young woman who was dying, who proved to be the same person. He found her near death, of which, with her httle re maining strength, she told him that she had a dreadful fear. The rites of the church and the suggestions of the priest having afforded her no support, her dread was intolerable : she had no merit, and she wanted " to hear more of the salvation which costs nothing." " Tell me," she said, " more about it." " There is no time," he replied, " for me to explain any thing ; you are too near your end : I will read to you what God has said." With that he read passage after passage in the New Testament, describing salvation through the righteousness of Christ, by faith, without merit.
At each new revelation of divine mercy read from the book of God, she grasped his hand with all the strength which intense earnestness could give even to a dvina person. God had made her poor in spirit, and it was apparent that the gospel met her urgent need ; she was weary and heavy laden, and it was evident PEACE IN DEATH. 13 that she came to Christ for rest. Before Colonel Tron chin left the room, she expressed to the friends who were nursing her, her confidence in the mercy of God through Christ, and shortly after she departed. Christians should never lose the occasion of mani festing kindness to others, and in connection with friendly acts, should make known Christ to as many as possible. Repressed at first, the resisted truth may spring up to the salvation of those who hear it. There are states of mind in which nothing but the gospel can afford peace.
This dying Christian was one instance of this truth, and Mr. Roussell has pub lished another, yet more remarkable. Not long since, a Protestant lady, in the south of France, supposing herself to be near death, was seized with deadly ter ror. It was in vain that her husband sought to con sole her. They had hved a thoughtless life, and she could not bear to stand before the judgment-seat of God. " Then let us send for the minister," said her husband. " What use is it 1" replied the sick person ; " I know what he will say ; it avails nothing." How ever, the minister was sent for. Being a young ra tionalist, who had often opposed evangelical doctrine, he endeavoured, when he reached the chamber of sickness, to console her by the memory of her do mestic virtues, and by assurance of the boundless mercy of God.
But his efforts were utterly vain : all his fine speeches could not silence a reproachful conscience ; she felt that the justice of God was in terrible array against her ungodliness, and the very mission of Christ convinced her of unpardonable in- GENEVA. gratitude to the Redeemer. The minister was per plexed ; all his stores of common-place, heartless pal liatives to mental anguish were exhausted, and she wildly told him that she was wretched and undone. What could he say more 1 At that moment it flashed upon his mind that the evangehcal doctrine, which he had so often opposed, would sdence all her fears : it was precisely what her agonized mind was asking for ; it would be to her like water in the scorched desert. He knew the doctrine of justification by grace through faith well, for he had often mahgned it : he was familiar with the texts cited by evangehcal minis ters, for he had employed his powers of criticism to re fute their evangehcal meaning.
" If he could but speak to her as an evangehcal minister, he could hush that awful tempest which he could scarcely bear to witness. But how could he say what he did not be heve . how calm even that agony by a he ? At least he could read those passages supposed to contain evangehcal doctrine — there could be nothing wrong in that." Baffled and perplexed, he directed her to the word of God for consolation; and read to her such texts as these, " God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life." "He that believeth on the Son hath everlasting life." " As many as received him, to them gave he power to become the sons of God, even to them that believe on his name." " Therefore we conclude that a man is justified by faith ivithout the deeds of the law."
" Being justified freely by his grace, through the CHRISTIAN BRETHREN. redemption that is in Jesus Clirist." " There is there fore now no condemnation to them which are in Clirist Jesus." No more was wanted : it was light to her perplexed path, it was peace to her anguish, it was life to the dying, it was an instant cure for her de spair ; and she welcomed the gospel as the flower in the desert welcomes the rain, held fast the consolation, and died rejoicing in faith ; a signal instance of the adaptation of the gospel to our moral wants. I rejoice to think that Colonel Tronchin is not so litary in his maintenance of the gospel. On the op posite shore of the lake is the beautiful chalet of Colonel Saladin, who, a brother with Colonel Tronchin in arms, is also a brother in the faith ; and with them are associated Count St. George and M. de Watte ville, who are equally decided in their principles, and equally open in the profession of their faith.
These, with my friends Pastor Cordez and Professor La Harpe, were absent from home during my stay. It would be like flattery to say what I think or what I have heard of these christian men, and I shall be silent. Nor will I pretend to eulogize the brethren whom I had the happiness to meet, Merle, Gaussen, Malan, Scherer, and others. They do not want my praise : but it was very pleasant to meet them, and to receive their hospita lity. To Colonel Tronchin, to Messrs. Lombard, and to Mr. Merle I was indebted for the opportunities of meeting many of the Christians of the place ; and was obliged, much to my regret, from the shortness of my stay, to forego a similar enjoyment offered by Dr. Malan and by Mr. Gaussen. GENEVA. There is irreligion in Geneva ; and I have only heard of three or four pious pastors in the whole National Church : but still there are few towns of the same size where so many educated, influential, and decided men are combined for the promotion of the cause of Christ.
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