Excursions along the Shores of the Mediterranean

Front matter

EXCURSIONS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. VOL. I. I M * EXCURSIONS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE * MEDITERRANEAN. BV LT- COLONEL E. NAPIER, 46th Regiment; AUTHOR OF " SCENES AND SPORTS IN FOREIGN LANDS,' ETC. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1842. TO LADY NAPIER 3ve Xiufcvibcto THESE " EXCURSIONS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN,'' AS A TRIBUTE OF FILIAL DEVOTION TO THE KINDEST AND BEST OF PARENTS, FROM HER GRATEFUL AND AFFECTIONATE SON, THE AUTHOK.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. It was the first intention of the Author to have brought the following pages before the Public in their original shape of "Letters from the Mediterranean," addressed to Lady Napier. The confidential correspondence with a kind parent, however, necessarily containing many particulars void of general interest, he was induced, whilst retaining the familiar epistolary style, to throw the narrative into the form of a journal. Should any further plea for indulgence be necessary, the Author has to urge in pallia-

Chapter I

Approaching departure for foreign service — Feelings on leaving Ireland — Retrospective view of English quarters — Comparison of a military residence in England and Ireland — Irish peasantry and scenery — Blarney Castle — The " Groves of Blarney," p. 1

Chapter II

At sea — Cape Spartel — Detained in the Gut by easterly winds — Account of departure from Cork — Embarkation scenes — Head quarters of the regiment embark on board the " Prince Regent" at Cove — Steaming down the river — Beauty of the banks — Get under weigh — Sea-sickness — Miseries on board a troop ship — Little attention paid to the comforts of troops on board ship — Cintra hills — Cape St. Vincent — Coast of Barbary - - p. 1 4

CHAPTER IIL

Mons Abila and Calpe — Appearance of the Rock — Jumper and Elliott — Disembarkation — Loss of the Don Juan steamer --------p. X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Different captains' guards — The Waterport — Market-place — Fish-market — Different kinds of fish — Charcoal-venders— Variety of Costumes — Spaniards — Moors — Old Hamet — Edict of Ferdinand and Isabella — Don Juan, the fruiterer — Dinner on guard — Temperate climate — Favourable to vegetation — Different plants — Aloe — Cactus and Prickly Pear — Pine and Date — Oleander and Gum cistus — Gardens of the Alameda — the Red Sands — Sir George Don — The Alameda on a Sunday evening — English women and Senoritas — Scorpions and Jewesses The Abaneco — National Costumes — Introduc tion of London and Parisian modes — The road through the Cork wood made by General Don, p. 28

Chapter V

Trip to Algesiras — Spanish officer — A Spanish dinner — Buen Camarados — Ladies at the Balconies — Pull across the Bay — The Spaniard at Mess — Ride along the Beach — Englishmen all " Loco" — St. Michael's Cave — Monkeys — Bulbous plants — The Galleries; or, Excavations along the North front — Cornwallis Hall— St. George's HaU p. 43

Chapter VI

Arrival of the Duke of Nemours — Explore Monkeys' Cave — Number of Avild plants — Fishing excursion amongst the rocks at Europa Point — Blubber fish — Donkey — Trip to San Roque, and return — Exposed situation of Windmill Hill - - - p. CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VII

A day with the Calpe hounds — A good resolution broken through — The Colonel's Horse — Making up Duties — Landport Guard — Visit to San Roque — Inhabitants of San Roque and Gibraltar — The Prison— The Wolf p. 59

Chapter VIII

Expedition to Castellar — Costume and arms on the occasion — Fishermen on the beach — Campamiento — Inscription on the San Roque road — The contrabandista — Courtesy of Spaniards of the lower orders — Spanish roads — General Don — Cork wood — Scenery — Swine and Swineherds — A juvenile guide — Shot at an eagle — The Castle of Castellar — The Posada — View from the Castle walls — The Comida — Monsieur Jean ------ --p. 65

Chapter IX

Boisterous Aveather — Daily occupations — Windmill Hill — Jacob'sladder — The Devil's dominions — O'Hara's Tower — Cold weather — Gibraltar — Delicacies of the season — Wild asparagus and snails — Luxuriant vegetation — Owls and toadstool - - - - p. 78

Chapter X

Storms — Bellerophon — Number of ships in the bay — Troops on board for Canada — Carlists reported to have entered Malaga — Start for San Roque — Masked ball — March of intellect in Andalusia — Introduction to a senorita — Practice in the Spanish language — Return at daylight — Wrecks along the shore — Lame horse — Desertion and murder - - - - - p. CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Leave of absence obtained to go to Grenada with Captain Zuhlcke — Qualifications for a traveller in Spain — Carteia Algesiras — Road to Tarifa — Camino muy malo — Mountain scenery — Spanish courtesy — Reach Tarifa — Colonel de Abrea, the governor — Colonel Gough and the 87th Regiment — Moorish castle — Veiled women — Drunken horses - - p. 92

CHAPTER XIL

Embark on board the " Mercurio" steamer for Malaga — English engineers and engines — "Mercurio" runs between Cadiz and Marseilles — Pleasant mode of travelling — "Putrefied" coals — Variety of passengers — Spanish customs — Dress — Cards — Sobriety of the Spaniards — Arrival at Malaga — The British Consul — The Captain- General of Andalusia The Commandant's lady — First regular attempt at Spanisli — Moorish traces in Malaga — Mixture of architecture — " Time," the leveller - - - p. 99 CHAPER XIIL Different sorts of hostelries in Spain — The Fonda — The Posada — The Venta — The Ventorillo — Pepe, the man of all work — La Senora Dolores — Long knives — The Patio — Moorish origin — La Comida — Catalogue of fishes — New acquaintance, and addition of three Ingleses to the party - - - - - p. 106

CHAPTER XIV

Roman remains at Malaga — Presidarios — The cathedral — Anecdote of Cano, the Spanish painter and sculptor — Streets of Malaga — Buildings of the time of Charles Vth. — The English burial-ground — Tomb of Mr. Boyd — Conspiracy of Torrejos — Its termination ----------- p. i|4 CONTENTS. XIII

CHAPTER XV.

Population of Malaga —Derivation of the name — Its origin — Historical reminiscences — The Alcobaca and Giberalfaro — Excursion to Cartama — Fertile plains — Spanish politeness - - - - - p. 120

CHAPTER XVI.

Cartama — Hermitage of the Virgin de Remedios — Legend of the Christian Knight — Moorish Castle and Roman remains — Ancient coins — Anasthasius Sawa — La Sefiora Melchiora de Perez — Shaking hands p. 126

CHAPTER XVII.

Womankind in general, and Dolores in particular — Carlist spies — Lance the Arriero — His appearance — Departure of the Arriereria — Don Quixote and Sancho Panza — Jose Lance — Road along the shore of the Mediterranean — The Cueva del Romano — Snowy Mountains — Velez — Fertibty of the surrounding country — Variety of productions — The Castle at Velez — The Posada - - - - p. 132

CHAPTER XVIII.

Leave Velez — Enter the Sierra — Village of Vinuella — Ladrones — Levy of black mail — Apathy of the Spanish government — Appearance of the arriereria — Las Puertas Averrarias— The Sierra Nevada — Sign of civilization — Alhama — The Tajo - p. . CONTENTS. XIV

CHAPTER XIX.

Departure from Alhama — Moorish Baths — Hot Springs Their efficacy in Rheumatic complaints — The tutelar Deity of the place — My companion grows impatient -----------p. 153

CHAPTER XX.

Departure from the Alhama baths — Camino Real — Cairns and crosses — Young Jose, the muleteer — Don Francisco Zenolos — Salt springs at the village of Malach — View of the Vega — Inglis' description of Grenada — Bridge of the Xenil — The Fonda del Comercio — Bed-rooms — Wines — Ices — Ladies frequenting the coffee-rooms — False delicacy of Spanish Avomen — Hasty conclusions on habits and customs of foreigners — Custom-houses — Temporary fortifications — Alameida and " salon" near the Xenil — Quickness of vegetation — The Abaneco — Its language — Spanish customs and equipages — Their criticism of EngUsh manners — Fire-boys - - p. 160

CHAPTER XXI.

Don Zenalos — Students at Grenada — Letters of introduction — Don Rodriguez — Interior of a Spanish residence — The Sefiora — The Alhambra — Palace of Charles V. — Hall of the Ambassadors — A Casa de Pupilos — Moderate terms — Good ti-eatment — A Spanish street — Entrance to the houses — the Patio — Second visit to the Alhambra- — The Generaliffe — Large cypress trees — Pictures — The Silla del Moro — Prospect from thence — Subterranean excavations — Bad taste of Charles V. — Traces of the occupa- CONTENTS. XV tion of the Alhambra by the French — The Hill of the Gipsies — Caverns — Cactus plants — Localities described by Washington Irving — Spanish gipsies p. 177

CHAPTER XXII.

Go out to sketch — Extreme cold — Snow — La galera, or Spanish stage-coach — Comfortless day — A morning of snow — The Brasero — A grog party — The Capa and Abaneco — An estudiante in Uquor — Visit the Cartuja — Plaza de Trionfo — Lunatic Asylum — Slight mistake — The Carthusian Friars — Paintings — Cano and Murillo— A pickpocket — Visit to the Alhambra — Washington Irving's heroine — Mateo Ximenes — Go to jail — A tertullia — Spanish sobriety — La Vega — Sota de Roma — The Duke of Wellington — Santa Fe — Madame Latana — Her double entendres — Spanish delicacy - - p. 191

CHAPTER XXIII.

Excursion to the Long Stables and Almoraima — Armed party — Derivation of the appellation of "Long Stables," or " Venta del Agualcahijo" — The beach — Sandhills — The one-legged beggar — Fishermen — Spanish race-course — Campamiento — The " Muchachos" at St. Roque — The English denominated " Johnnys" — Mr. Plantain — The Almendral — The " Pinales," or Pine Wood — View from thence — The Chaparros, or Cork Wood — The " Sota" and Pass of Aberfoil — Richness of vegetation — Casual rencontres — The Venta del Agualcahijo — Its accommodation — The " Comedor" — Juana, the acting hostler — The "Ama" — Preparation for the feast — The CONTENTS. XVI Contrabandistas and game-keepers — Savoury dishes — The "Corso" — Almoraima — The Padre — Acci dent — Return to Gibraltar — State of the weather p. 221

CHAPTER XXIV.

Ramble amongst the scenes beyond Algesiras — Fort San Felipe — Its present dismantled state — Carteia — Its antiquity — Remains of the Amphitheatre — The Tharshish of Solomon — Occupied by the Carthaginians — and Romans — Ancient coins — Gothic watch-towers — The Guadranque — Derivation of the name of Algesiras — The Isla Verde — — Modern town — Balconies and iron bars — Spanish ladies — The Siesta — Town of Algesiras — The Campe Santo — The aqueduct — The Baranco — Mountain stream — Variety of plants — The Molino de San Bernardo — The Miller's family — Cigars — Return to Algesiras — Artillery of the eyes from the balconies — Female partiality to strangers — The Andalusian maid -------- p. 239 ♦

CHAPTER XXV.

Trip to the opposite coast of Africa — Martine — A messenger dispatched to Tetuan — The "Namaz" — A Moorish beauty — crowded quarters — Rioters in the camp — Summary justice - - - - p. 251

CHAPTER XXVI.

March to Tetuan— Distant appearance of the town Extensive plain — Costume of the Moorish women — Their unprepossessing appearance — Arrival at CONTENTS. XVII Mr. Bendurlack's — Breakfast there — His house — Moorish arches — Jewish costume — Mine host's lovely daughters — Magnificent dresses of Esther and Seemah ---------p. 260

CHAPTER XXVII.

Visit to the Vice-Consul — Hash-Hash, the Bashaw — His extortions — His gluttony — A renegade — Appearance of the town — Jewish quarters — The sons and daughters of Israel — A question for Lavater — A Moorish marriage procession — The feast at Bendurlack's — Visits in the Jewish quarter — Furniture of the houses — Elegance of manner — Terraced roofs — The synagogue — Difficulties made to our starting — A Moorish interior -------p. 26S

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Bad cattle — Camels and caravans — The Aira-e-Sdeed. or new fountain — The halt — Horses completely done up — Arrive at Tangiers — Bribe the porter — Go to BenoUel's — Mahomed Sheriffe — A Jewish marriage — The lady of the closed eyes — The bridegroom rather nervous — Moorish maids — A late supper -----------p. 282

CHAPTER XXIX.

Gardens of the Consuls — Mr. Drummond Hay — Sociability at Tangiers — Number of Consuls of different European powers — Visit to a mineral source and the remains of Bobana — Fresh water turtle — Gallop along the beach — Old bridge — Mr. T . — His travels across the Atlas to Tafilat — His numerous adventures — The mahogany corpse — The two wild giants -----------p. CONTENTS. XVIII

CHAPTER XXX.

A trip to Cape Spartel — The Cave of Ashkhur — Millstones — Bedouins — Murder of an English boat's crew — Filthy habits of the people — The soko — Variety of costumes — Women of Tangiers — Plainness of those of the lower order — Bedouins — The Haick camels — Articles for sale in the soko, p. 301

CHAPTER XXXI.

Dinner at Mr. Hay's — Ampelusian Avine — Tunny fish — Ladies' society — Interesting conversation — Difficulty of reaching Ceuta overland — Her Majesty's birth-day, and loyal toasts — Conversazione at the Dutch Consul's — Embark on board the Galgo — Breeze springs up — Beautiful run along the coast of Africa — Anchor at Ceuta — Prospect of quarantine — De Sylben — Let out of quarantine — A " Baile" — Doubtful characters — Suspicions confirmed — The little Fisico — Visit to the Governor — His civility — The Haeho — English barracks — Carbnos — Ceuta in a state of perpetual siege — Intended visit to the Moorish camp — Approach the Moorish pickets — Interview with the Alcalde — Visit the seraglio — Return to Ceuta — Embark for Gibraltar - p. 308

CHAPTER XXXII.

A bull-fight at Algesiras — "Novillos" — "Chulos"— A smutty "Picador — The " Bandarilleros" — The Matador — Death — Female humanity in Spain,p. 320

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Algesiras and Los Barrios — Spanish acquaintance and manners — An unusual beauty — Compliments and professions — Words an unsubstantial repast — Poverty — Bridge at Los Barrios — The cura and church — The sierras above Los Barrios — Fine view — Carrying double — A novel hunt. - - - EXCURSIONS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.

Chapter I

Approaching departure for foreign service — Feelings on leaving Ireland — Retrospective view of English quarters — Comparison of a military residence in England and Ireland — Irish peasantry and scenery — Blarney Castle — The " Groves of Blarney." Cork, Sept. 1837. I never felt so little reluctance at leaving any part of the world as I do on bidding adieu to " ould Ireland ;" and this feeling appears common to all our officers. Indeed, some go so far as to express a hope that they may never again set eyes on this gim of the sea. The VOL. I. B IRISH QUARTERS. fact is, we were all wofully disappointed in our expectations of this country* as a " quarter." We had heard so much of Irish hospitality, of Irish warm-heartedness, of Irish attention to the military, of the beauty of Irish scenery, and I know not what else, that, on our arrival here, we expected to live in clover, and revel at least in the seventh Paradise of Mahomet.

We were doomed, however, to be sadly disap pointed; and the great contrast between our Irish quarters and the charming ones we had occupied during our short campaign in Eng land, tended, by comparison, greatly to increase this feeling. I am not one of those who would ever blame those families in the neighbourhood of a military station for not shewing attention to the gay birds of passage, who, in the shape of " soger officers," as Jack calls us, may for a brief space of time be thrown amongst them. Far from it ; such acquaintance must be to them most unprofitable in every point of view ; for although we may, and I hope we do, boast amongst our cloth, of as highminded, honour- * Vide note to page 10. ENGLISH QUARTERS. 3 able, and gentlemanly men as in any other profession, still the transient nature of friend ships formed with them, and they must be transient, only increases the pain of parting in the same ratio that their amiable qualities made them appreciated.

If we should not, therefore, blame neglect (but that is not the word) from the members of civil society, how much more grateful ought we to feel when those attentions are bestowed spontaneously, and without even the form of an introduction! This was the case at our first quarters in England, on our return from India. We were received at Canterbury with open arms ; and, after our long exile in a burning clime, our hearts were gladdened as soon as we set foot on our native shores, by the warmth, the hospitality, nay, the kindness with which we were received. I am not aware that any one of our officers had a single acquaintance in the place, or even a letter of introduction ; still our reception, on returning from foreign service, was that of the " prodigal son." Dinners, balls, and fetes, were the order of the day.

The papas gave B2 PURE PHILANTHROPY. us " feasts," which we washed down with sparkling champagne and rosy claret, the former serving to fill out our emaciated bodies, whilst the last, after considerable perseverance in the use of the generous fluids, began eventually to recall a blush of health into our pale, yellow, or bronzed physiognomies, on which the "mammas" kindly smiled as they introduced us to their blooming daughters, who, dear creatures, not to be behindhand with the rest, condescended to become our part ners in the quadrille, the waltz, and the " gal loppe," though many, poor, bilious, looking creatures as we were, had scarcely a walk, much less a gallop, in us — at least, I can speak for myself: and all this was, I am convinced, from the purest feeling of philanthropy, un mixed with one selfish thought or sentiment — for what interest could the " papas'' have in feteing untitled and uninfluential soldiers ?

The " mammas" could not be thinking of matches with men who had only their " half crown out of sixpence a-day'' to spend; and as for the young ladies; old Indians, with their nankeen pantaloons, calico chemises, AN OFFICER'S WIFE. 5 and cadaverous countenances, are not at all the objects calculated to elicit their spon taneous smiles. But, " on dit," that sympathy often gives birth to love ; I am, hoAvever, happy to say, that Avere such a feeling ever engendered in any of those fair hearts, our short stay gave it no time to develop itself; at least to such an extent as to render the baggage waggon requisite for the cure of the disease ; and I really do feel glad that, notwithstand ing our intimate acquaintance with many of the families of Canterbury and its vicinity, we did not so ill repay their kindness as to persuade any fair " maid of Kent" to accom pany the regiment on its departure.

If, in my opinion, there be one situation in life less preferable than another to a sensitive and highly educated female, it is that of being an officer's wife; more particularly the wife of a poor officer of a " marching regiment ;" when the delicate girl, who has, perhaps, been brought up to the enjoyment of every luxury and refinement in her paternal home, is sud denly transferred to all the hardships and in- PLEASANT SOCIETY. dignities of a barrack-room life, to the fatigues and privations of a march, or the vicissitudes of climate. Ever shall I remember with gratitude the hospitable names of H , of B , of D , of Col. W , and many others, who I pray may live long to exercise that hospi tality which is so congenial to their feelings. After a short residence at Canterbury, we marched to Weedon.

This as a quarter, though not to be compared to the last, had, notwithstanding, its attractions. The surrounding families were courteous in the extreme; it was not, however, the season for gaiety during our abode in Northamptonshire; still we got on very well, having little duty, and, consequently, plenty of leisure, which, with a charming country to wander over during the summer months, enabled us to pass our time very pleasantly. Imagine, then, what a contrast to all this " playing at soldiers" was our removal to Ire land ; where at Dublin, with a regiment con sisting still of recruits, we had to take our share of the severe garrison duties of that INHOSPITABLE REGIONS. place, and then, in the depth of winter, were marched to the " inhospitable" regions of the north, to be stationed at Belfast.

What a transition did we find in its cold, bleak-looking, and deserted streets, to the animation and life, to the busy scenes and smiling countenances of dear Canterbury! In the bare mountains, and desolate heaths and bogs of Ulster, what a falling off from the rich pastures of Northamptonshire ! — Here and there dotted with gigantic oaks, with its green shady lanes and smiling cottages, whose neat little patch of flower-garden, and trellised honeysuckle and roses, betokened in the red cheeked and well-fed cottagers a state of ease and contentment far removed from the condi tion of starvation and misery, which, alas! was but too evident in the abodes of the " finest pisintrj" in the world — those wretched hovels — where old age in rags, and children in nudity, might be seen wallowing in filth, amidst swine and poultry, in an atmosphere heavy with blinding smoke from the peat fire burning on the often chimneyless hearth, and whose clouds failed even to be dissipated by IRISH PEASANTRY. the chilling blast which whistled through the numerous crevices in the crazy, turf-built walls!

The country people, too, how different in look and appearance from the sturdy form and contented, round, and ruddy face of the English farmer ! A ragged vestment, a sallow com plexion, and, above all, a sour, discontented look, were the characteristics of the peasantry of Erin ; who, to use the expressive words of a sporting friend, residing some time among them, " neither fed kindly, nor wore a good coat." In the hospitality, too, of the good people of Belfast, we found a woful change from the festive scenes at Canterbury; still I blame th m not for treating us like, what we really were to them, aliens and strangers. I have already given my reasons for not doing so. But, at the same time, I could not but feel glad on being removed from a place possessing so few attractions to recommend it, or from a country in which, though it might otherwise be a desirable residence, our military duties are often of the most disagreeable nature.

This BLARNEY CASTLE. accounts for the almost universal wish we feel to quit it altogether. The Guards, I am told, consider Ireland as in the pale of " foreign service ;" and with the prospect of the Mediterranean before us, we now feel as if we were about to return to our own homes. Would that we could remove with us our dear friends and relations ! But happiness in this world is never unmixed, and we must sip the cup as it is brewed — bitter min gled with the SAveet ! Enough, however, of moralizing; and I must now attempt some account of a spot which is a striking exception to the usual bareness of scenery in this country. I allude to the celebrated Blarney Castle, orr as it is commonly called, Castle Blarney, the property of Mr. Jeffreys, whose acquaint ance I renewed by chance on board the steamer which brought us from Dublin.

He had the civility to offer me the shooting over his grounds at the Castle, of which, however, owing to our approaching departure, I shall not be able to avail myself. Everybody has heard of the " Blarney B THE BLARNEY STONE. Stone," and wishing to be admitted to the mysterious privileges which a kiss of it bestows, a brother officer, M , and my self, started for the spot on foot, and arrived there, after going over five good Irish miles of ground, through a rich pasture country, but one which, disfigured by embankments and stone walls, and completely divested of either wood or enclosures, could lay but slight claims to the picturesque. This is, however, the case with every part of the country I have visited from Portglenone to Cork,* so much so, that one would be almost led to imagine that St. Patrick had, in the " green island," proscribed hedgerows and timber, as well as snakes and toads.

The approach to Blarney Castle is striking, and strongly characteristic of an old baronial feudal residence — but it is sadly falling to decay. Its mouldering and neglected walls appear tottering on their foundations — " grass is growing on its hearthstone," and even the * The author " steamed " from Dubbn to the latter place, and therefore had no opportunity of witnessing the intermediate scenery. THE KISSING STONE. beautiful " groves of Blarney," so celebrated in song, are suffered to become a rank and desolate wilderness. The " grove" is composed of laurel trees, of singular size and luxuriance of growth, under the shade of which are various cool grottoes, the whole presenting a scene, in its way, of unrivalled beauty. The " kissing stone" is placed at one corner of the highest battlements of the castle.

I Avas never able to trace the origin of the privileges which every one is aware are to be derived from a salute bestowed upon it ; but that origin cannot be of a very remote era, as the stone itself bears the date of 1703. The donjon, the witches' stair, and the cave which runs under the Castle, to, it is said, an immense extent, and where " cats and badgers for ever breed," are the curiosities pointed out to the inquisi tive stranger. As the rude herdsman who guided us sheAved the entrance to the latter, I asked him if he knew the song called the " Groves of Blarney" ? " Sure, and 'tis jist I who does," replied Pat, who, by the offer of sixpence, was in duced to repeat, in a drawling nasal tone, the THE GROVES OF BLARNEY. following lines, which I took down at the time, and which, as they differ from the usual " polished" edition, I here add for the reader's amusement and edification : — THE HERDSMAN'S EDITION OF THE " GROVES OF BLARNEY."

The groves of Blarney, they were so charming, All in the puddling of sweet silent brook ; There is daisies, and sweet carnations, The blooming pink, and the rose so fair, The daffydilly, beside the lily, All flowered on the sweet rock close. 'Tis Lady Jefferys as owns this nation She's like an Alexander, a rose so fair, She's castles round her, where no nine pounder Can touch or plunder her place of strength. 'Tis Oliver Cromwell that did her pummel, And made a breach in her battlement. There's the lake well stored with perches, The comely eels in the virgin mud . Besides the leeches, and the groves of beeches, That were planted in order agin the flood. There's the cave where no daybght enters, But cats and badgers for ever breed; The moss by nature, which makes it swater Than the coach and six, and a bed of down.

THE GROVES OF BLARNEY. 13 There's statues gazing, this noble place in — All gods and heathens, and nymphs so fair. Now, to finish my brave narration — Bould Neptune's standing quite naked in the open air. There's the kitchen, how many a flitch in, The maids are stitching upon the stair. There's the whisky, besides the biscuit, Which would make you frisky if you were there. 'Tis there you'd see Pat Murphy's daughter Washing praties furnint the door — Judy Carey, and Peggy Leary, All blood related to Lord Dunamore. *** On taking a final leave of Ireland, though candour may obHge the author to aver that he did not like those portions of it which he had visited, as a military resi dence, and though misgovernment may have produced the scenes of misery he mentions, . still he cannot help bearing witness to the sound, sterling character of the sons of Erin, as well as to the amiable qualities of her fair daughters ■ and whilst the name of Ireland exists, it may be confidently affirmed that it will ever be as sociated with Genius and Valour — with Beauty and Virtue. CAPE SPARTEL.