Twelve Months in Madagascar

Preface

. In adding another to the list of works written about Madagascar I have been anxious to confine its contents to what was special to our visit. During that visit my colleague and I enjoyed unusual opportunities of observing various matters relating to the country and the people in the principal portions of the island. Being deputed to visit the Government and the Churches, by those who had befriended them for more than fifty years, we were cor dially welcomed everywhere, and were permitted to see and examine all we wished. The portion of the country which we visited was very extensive. We saw in all their length and breadth the two Central Provinces of the island, Imerina and the Betsileo ; we visited the Sihanaka Province, and left the island by the north-west route and the Port of Mojanga.

Everywhere we came into closest contact with the native Churches : to an extent that no Englishman, missionary or traveller, had ever done before. We saw the religious life of the people on the large scale ; not merely in its details in a single locality : but as

PREFACE.

. VI it shows itself in all parts, the most advanced and the most ignorant. We can say much on the things we saw in various localities. We can also testify that the great religious revolution, which is said to have taken place in Madagascar, is a real thing: that it has affected and improved the nation most powerfully at its heart, in the Capital and Imerina : and that its effects are also real and truly beneficial far away in the interior, and even at extreme points on the coast. We shared in most important consultations of the mis sionaries, respecting the actual position of things, and the form and extent to which Christian work should be carried on in the future. We were in constant communi cation with the members of the Norwegian, the Friends', and the Medical Missions. We held most pleasant inter course with the Authorities, and were present at several important public gatherings.

We were honoured with a formal reception by the Queen and a formal farewell. Being aware of great defects in our geographical know ledge of the interior of Madagascar, we prepared ourselves before leaving England to gather new information. In all our journeys we took observations : and we have prepared a new Map of the Country which we traversed. Amon« the special results of this geographical exploration, we may note, the discovery of a widespread volcanic region, including a hundred extinct craters; the delineation of

PREFACE.

. VII Lake Itasy ; the survey of the Sihanaka Province, with its fine Lake Alaotra ; the survey of the Betsileo Province and of the District of Betafo ; and that of the route to Mojanga. We have also gathered important information relative to the extent of the population. These questions were in many respects new to ourselves ; we learned much respect ing them : and that information we now lay before the many friends of the Mission. Though deriving great help from the observations and views of my colleague, I alone am responsible for the statements contained in this little volume. I will only add that in the pronunciation of the many Malagasy names which it contains, if the reader will kindly have regard to the accented syllables and pro nounce the first three vowels a, e and . as the Italians do, and the vowel o as they pronounce their u, he will not go far wrong. J. M. Canonbubt, March 29, 1875. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Why And How We Went To Madagascar

Religious Revolution in Madagascar — The Idols burned — Increased Help sent from England to the Mission — A Deputation appointed to visit the Island — Our Journey thither — Marseilles — Naples — Fellow-passengers — The Suez Canal — Aden — The Indian Ocean — Mauritius — The Bullockers — Passage across — Tamatave ; the Town, Port, and Market — English and Native Friends— Sunday — The Native Churches and their Worship — Help they need — Importation of Rum into Madagascar and its evils — The Trade of Madagascar Pages 1-24

Chapter II. First Experiences Of Madagascar And Its People

East Coast of Madagascar, its Character and Population — Supplies needed by a Traveller to the Capital — Our Journey — Inland Lagoons — Parklike Scenery — Andevoranto — Ascend the Iharoka — "See the conquering Hero comes " — The Pass of Taniakdva — The Sorrows of the old Slave-system — System of our Journey — The great Ridge west of Befdrona — Scenery of the Forest — The Plain of Ankay — The great Ridge of Angavo and its Forest — The Eastern Valleys of Imerina — Our Arrival and Reception — Population of the East Coast scanty — First Visits — The City empty — Why — Description of Antananarivo — CONTENTS. X Origin, Name, and Growth of the City— Interest of the Native Churches in our Visit Pages 25-49

Chapter III. Visit To The Betsileo Province

The Betsileo Province, its importance and position — The Mission recent — Journey thither — The Ankarat Mountains, their breadth and height — Encamp at the foot — The Vava Vato — Betifo and Sirab. — The River Mania — Ambositra — Nandihizana — Ambohinamboarina — Ikala — The Matsiatra River — Fianarantsoa — Visit of the Queen to the Province — Worship in the Camp — Examination of the Schools — The Tanala. — Our Visit to Ambohimandroso and Imahazony — The Southern Terrace and hills — The Ibara Tribes — Ambdndrombe — The I_rindrano — Fianarantsoa again — Ifanjakana — Latitudes and Heights — General Conclusions concerning the Betsileo Province : its Population and Resources — Religious condition — New arrangements of the Mission for its Instruction — Return to the Capital Pages 51-98

Chapter IV. Return To The Capital

Return of the Queen and Military Expeditions — Thunderstorm — Public entry into the City and reception by the People — Uniforms and ceremonies on the occasion — Reason and Course of the War — Our Interview with the Queen — Address from the Directors — Rest in the City — Home at An_lak„y — Visits to the Institutions in the City — Worship with the Native Churches —Festival of the Fandroana — Visit to Country Missions in Imerina — Importance of these Stations — Vonizongo — The District : its spirited people : their high principle : many of them Martyrs — Position of an English Missionary in these Districts — Ambohimanga — Journey thither across country — A Royal City : its sturdy people : places around it — Ambatovory : its beauty — Amba. tomena and its People— Our return to Antananarivo Pages 99-128 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter V. How It Strikes

A STRANGER. Settling in the Capital — My Madagascar Home — Prospect over Imerina — Family Life and Housekeeping — Our Servants — The Garden — Weather, Thunderstorms — Beauty of Imerina — The great City Market : Food, Dress and Manufactures Sold — Low Prices — Money — Settlements of the European Families — Roads — Our Dress — The Sun — The Palace — Social Life in the Capital — Lack of External Stimulus — Sources from which it may be supplied — Memorial Church at Faravohitra — The Martyrs who suffered there — Conference of Missionaries held in January — Topics discussed — Resolutions and Arrangements — Concluding Meeting — Important Re-arrangements resulting from it — Love of the Bible among the People — The Churches in the City — Opening of the Memorial Church at Ampamarinana Pages 129-155

Chapter VI. The Land And The People Of Madagascar

The East Coast of the Island— The West Coast — Travels of M. Grandidier — Maps of Madagascar — Mr. Cameron's Survey — Additions made by us — Size of Madagascar — The Mountain-mass along its centre — Terraces on all sides — The Malagasy people a single race — Their Three Tribes and their Sub-divisions — The Malagasy not an African race — Their Malay origin — Evidence supplied by their Language — New Words from Arabic, French and English — Reference to Madagascar by Marco Paolo — Early Navigation of the Eastern Seas very extensive — Phœnician, Hindu, Chinese and Malay — Madagascar colonised by Malays — Three independent Movements — Traditions of the Hovas — Their Arrival in Imerina — Conquest of the Vazimba — Increase in Imerina — Their recent History — Ralambo and his Descendants — Imp-in and his consolidation of the Kingdom — Radama — State of the Country, of Social Life and of the Sakalava Tribes in his day — The people still a federation of tribes — Their Institutions — Their steady growth in Civilisation, as well as in Religious Character . . . Pages 158-188 CONTENTS. XII

Chapter VII. Lake Itasy And The Volcanic Region

South Border of Imerina— -Hill of Antongona— Arivonimamo, the old Capital — Great number of beautiful hills — Miaclana Manja_a — Lake Itasy — The M_ndridr_no — Religious knowledge of the people — The grass of Madagascar — Numerous craters and crater-lakes — Mahatsinjo and its people — Vin_ny hill — Kitsamby river — Antoby — The Vava Vato — Norwegian Missions — Menabe — Betafo and Sirabe — Volcanoes — Hot springs and Limepits — Votovorona. — The East of Ank_rat — Andrar_ty — Our return — Western Imerina — Ambohiveloma — The F_rah_ntsana : falls of the Ikopa Pages 189-226

Chapter VIII. The Sihanaka Province And People

Special reason for a visit to this Province— Crossing the Granite Moors — Basin of the Mananara — Anjozorobe and its People — Spend Sunday with them — "The Gate of Rock" — The Wilderness of Ankay — Capital of the Sihanaka, its Governor and People — Christian work and the Native Pastor — Tour round the District — Ambohidehilahy — Ambodindnoka — Petulance of our Bearers — The great Swamp and its Reeds — Ambohitromby — Reception at Ambohipeno — Amparafaravola and its kind Governor — A Volcanic Hill — Ambohijanahary — Ambohitsara — Enquiries about the Gun — The Alaotra Lake and the Scenery around it — Marosalazana and its bright Scholars — Memorials of the Dead — Whence came the Sihanaka People — How they became Christians — What the Gospel is doing for them — Form, Extent and Population of the District Pages 227-267

Chapter IX

, OUR JOURNEY TO MOJANGA. Last Meetings in the Capital — Farewell interview with the Queen Departure to Vonizongo — North Vonizongo — Angavo — The five Garrison CONTENTS. XIII Towns — Religious condition of their People — Crossing the Wilderness — No man's Land — The Cataracts of the Ikopa — Vast deposits of Drift — Town of Mevatanana — Voyage in Canoes — Junction of the Ikopa and Betsiboka Rivers — Amparihibe — Crocodiles in the River — The Level Plains — Town of Trabonjy, its Governor and People — Marovoay — Ar rival at Mojanga1 : Its Churches and People — Religious condition of the District — Trade and History of MojangÆ Pages 269-320

Chapter X. Our Return Home

Domestic Slavery in Madagascar — Ancient Trade in Slaves — Radama's Treaty with Governor Farquhar well observed — Similar clause in the Treaty of 1865 — Slaves imported nevertheless — Capture of Slaver by the Vulture — Successful efforts against the Slave Trade — Recent Proclamation of the Queen of Madagascar — Our return Home — The new Bishopric in Madagascar — Its aggressive attitude and spirit — God's care of His people Pages 321-334 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE ANTA-fANAKrvo : Church at Ampamaeinana . to face Title-page. Ford of the Majtdraka . . . to face page 40 Town of Fianarantsoa ... „ „ 67 Falls of the Ikopa .... „ „ 225 Turtle-head Rock — Ajubatomalaza . . . . 54 TSI-AFAK-AFO FROM THE WEST ..... 58 Mr. Peaese's House ...... Ill Martyr's Cave ....... 119 The Queen's Residence ..... 143 Stone Gate at Arivonimamo . . . . - 193 Gateway of Poles — Mevatanana . . . .

Chapter I. Why And How We Went To Madagascar

Religious Revolution in Madagascar — The Idols burned — Increased Help sent from England to the Mission — A Deputation appointed to visit the Island — Our Journey thither — Marseilles — Naples — Fellow-passengers — The Suez Canal — Aden — The Indian Ocean — Mauritius — The Bullockers — Passage across — Tamatave ; the Town, Port, and Market — English and Native Friends — Sunday — The Native Churches and their Worship — Help they need — Importation of Rum into Madagascar and its evils — The Trade of Madagascar. A TWELVE MONTHS IN MADAGASCAR.

CHAPTER I. WHY AND HOW WE WENT TO MADAGASCAR.

On the 8th of September 1869, a religious revolution took place in Madagascar. The priests and diviners of the idol KelimaMza came to the Queen, and urged that, like her predecessors, she should again take the idol into her palace, and place her whole kingdom under its protection. The Queen had, from the commencement of her reign, eighteen months before, taken her stand as a Christian; and in the previous February, in the presence of her people, had been baptized as a Christian. Her husband, the Prime Minister, and an influential body of nobles and officers, had adopted the same faith : and Christianity was making great strides among her subjects generally. The keepers of the three national idols had in consequence been deposed from their position as keepers of the ruler's conscience, as directors of lucky and unlucky days, and as instigators of the persecutions, from which the land had suffered great harm.

They had also been deprived of their special privileges. They were no longer Andrians, en titled to the scarlet umbrella, exempt from the jurisdiction of the ordinary Courts, and having the power of life and death over their own clan ; they were simply Hovas, and were bound to render to their sovereign that feudal service, to which all other members of the tribe were subject. All this was trying enough. Men, who have long enjoyed exclusive privileges at others' expense, are usually dis satisfied when their vested interests are set aside without compensation. And when, in the month of June, the Queen laid the foundation of her Chapel Royal, and sum moned these priestly families to do their share in building it, they made a last desperate attempt to recover their former position. They came to the Queen and urged her to place the land under the idols once more.

The occasion -was felt to be an important one. There was a hurried consultation. A large number of officers •was summoned ; and a discussion commenced among them as to how the difficulty should be met. A happy sug gestion offered by one of them, that the idols should be burned, was heartily approved by all. Due authority was given by the Queen, and several officers were at once dis patched on horseback to the village where the chief idol was kept. Arrived at the idol-house, the leader went in and brought the idol out, " Whose idol is this ? " he asked of the bystanders. " It belongs to the Queen," was their reply. " If this idol be mine," saith Eanavalo-manjaka, " I need it not : let it be burned." And burned it was, with all its trappings, to their consternation and grief. The other royal idols shared the same fate.

The event produced a profound sensation throughout the country. By the theory and the practice of Malagasy public life, the Queen had a perfect right to decide as she had done. But her subjects were not behind their sovereign. Public opinion had been rapidly ripening on the subject, and there was no hesitation as to the course that should be followed. The next day, all over Imerina, the private idols of villages and families were also brought forth : bundles of clothes and charms, round which the superstitious fears of many generations had clustered, were committed to the flames ; and soon a little heap of ashes was all that remained of the outward symbols of a faith that had been held by the Malagasy races since their first fathers landed on the island. The revolt from the system was complete.

Erom all quarters came the inquiry, " Whom does the Queen worship ? How is that worship conducted ? What are we to do ? " From all quarters was heard the request, "Send us teachers : send us books." Chapels were hastily erected all over the province, even in remote villages. And the resources of the native Churches, of the English Mission, and of the Mission Press, were taxed to the utmost to supply the nation's wants. Profound as was the sensation produced by the burning of the idols abroad, it was not less deeply felt at home. The greatness of the event was discerned : its spiritual significance was instantly appreciated. No such event had occurred in the history of Christendom before : no such multitude of willing men and women had ever knocked for admission at the Church's door in a single year.

It was the fruit of the long and painful persecution of twenty eight years. It was the fruit of the faithfulness of the martyrs, dead and living, upon whose sufferings and fidelity all Christendom had looked with sympathy. It was the answer to the thousands of prayers which those sufferings had called forth. The case was thoroughly appreciated. A few enthusiasts mioht talk of Madagascar as christianized, and think it needed Christian help no longer. But the Committees of Missionary Societies, the men who have been dealing with the practical life of heathen nations for many years, and have been studying the many problems involved in their redemption, were not likely to make that mistake. A new born child is not the educated, thoughtful, self-denying man, he some day may be. With his birth and growth the trials and responsibilities of parents begin.

Many a missionary has found that his work in instructing the heathen was as nothing, compared with the labour, anxiety and trial, which fell to his lot, when he began to gather converts around him, and by God's help endeavoured to train them to holiness and trust, while "the world, the flesh, and the devil" were drawing them back again to evil. With the thankfulness and congratulations which this great change inspired in the friends of the Imerina Mission, it was felt that new duties of a most serious kind devolved upon them; and the Directors of the London Missionary Society, who had maintained that mission and had aided the Malagasy Churches for more than fifty years, determined without delay to enlarge the mission by all the agencies which the crisis called for. Large sums of money were contributed almost unasked ; and within the five years that have since elapsed twenty English missionaries have been added to the staff previously labourin°* in the island.

It was resolved to commence new stations, and to enlarge and strengthen the Theological and Normal Schools ; to increase and stimulate general education ; and to make the Press more efficient. Other Christian missions, working in cordial co-operation with the London Missionary Society, were enlarged at the same time. Nothing could be more desirable than that these in creased agencies should be carefully applied so as to produce the largest amount of good. Especially was it felt to be important that every English missionary, ex pected to be a fountain of wisdom and of spiritual power to the simple people around him, should be located in a position that would call forth all his strength, and give to his abilities and influence the widest scope. As time went on it seemed increasingly difficult to secure these important ends.

Much as we heard from abroad, and much as we wrote to Madagascar from London, it grew more plain that no amount of correspondence would suffice to convey to us and to them all the information as to details which it was desirable for each side to know ; especially when that correspondence was frequently interrupted and delayed by its transit through one of the most inefficient mail-services known to the civilised world, the service between Bourbon and Madagascar. The conviction grew that nothing would suffice for the accomplishment of our purpose, nothing would supply all missing links and make co-operation complete, but that two or three Directors of the Society should proceed to the island, and that the missionaries and these Directors, as " friends in council," should together shape the new scheme, which the enlarged mission imperatively required.

It was felt to be an additional advantage that, by visiting the island, the members of such a deputation would have an opportunity of meeting the native pastors and native churches, and of assuring them both of the warm affection in which they were still held by their old friends, and of the gladness with which they would still be aided in their new and pressing wants. The Rev. John Pillans of Camberwell, a Director of the Society, and myself were honoured with the appointment ; and after several impressive services, in which we were affectionately commended to the divine protection, and the divine blessing was sought on our expedition, we set out on our journey. Mrs. Pillans also accompanied us. A pleasant day between Paris and Lyons, followed by a hot and weary night, brought us to Marseilles, our port of embarkation.

Marseilles is now a great city, with six hundred thousand inhabitants ; and its new streets, in solidity, breadth, and grandeur, compare favourably with those of Paris. The trade passing through the city is enormous. Its new quay and harbour are crowded with steamers, which connect it by commercial ties with all the ports of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, and which in recent years have extended their lines to India, China, and Japan ; while, conspicuous to all eyes, on its rocky hill, stands the church of Notre Dame de la Garde, the shrine at which the sailors of Marseilles have registered their vows and paid their thanks, from the day when, two thousand five hundred years ago, the Greek colonists of Phocæa founded the city of Massilia, and erected their first temple. Perhaps no shrine in Europe can boast of such a long and unbroken line of worshippers.

Our steamer was the Amazone, of the fleet of the Mes sageries Maritimes, a noble vessel of 2000 tons, bound for Shanghai and carrying the Eastern mails. We found her accommodations excellent; large cabins, a good table, attentive servants, an obliging captain, efficient officers, and a most muscular crew. What a mixture of nations we found among our fellow-passengers ! There were Spaniards, French, Portuguese, English, Italians, and Japanese. Our Japanese companions were members of the Commission which had been visiting the Vienna Exhibi tion. We started from the jetty punctually at ten, on the morning of the 6th of July. With a smooth sea and clear sky we passed rapidly through the Straits of Boni facio, and were unexpectedly gratified by a brief visit to the city and bay of Naples. What painter can do full justice to the delicate hues of sea and sky at that fair spot?

The harbour of Hong Kong and the bay of New York are,, in their finest aspects and under the purest skies, truly beautiful ; but there is a perfection of loveliness in the sheen of the air, the play of the colours, and the trans parent clearness of the Bay of Naples that nothing can surpass. Leaving Naples at nine in the morning, at sunset we were close to Stromboli, with its cindery cone ; and at midnight, with six men at the wheel, the Amazone passed steadily through the swirling'currents of the Straits of Messina, under a magnificent moon. The long line of lights in the town of Messina, the dark rocks of the Italian coast, with Reggio at their feet ; the firing of the gun, the burning of the blue lights, and the brilliant night made up a charming scene. We saw Candia in its entire length, with Mount Ida and its line of rugged hills ; passed close to Gozo, the little island of Clauda, where the apostle Paul and his companions fell into the hurricane ; and at sunrise on Saturday, six days from Marseilles, anchored at Port Said, the entrance to the Suez Canal.

There came on board at Naples a number of gentlemen in whom we felt considerable interest, and who proved agreeable companions. They were silk merchants from various cities of Italy, engaged in the endeavour to restore the Italian silk-trade, which has in recent years been almost ruined by disease among the worms. They make an annual voyage to Japan, and bring back with them enormous quantities of the best silkworms' eggs. These are stowed in a special compartment of the vessel, iced to keep them cool, and a heavy freight is paid for the accommodation. Our new passengers were a tall, manly body of men ; many of them had the unniistakeable Roman face and features ; and when one saw them at dinner, enlivening the tedium of the seven courses with the hearty laugh and witty repartee, one felt that classical life was coming home very freshly, and could realise it more distinctly than before.

We were charmed with the Suez Canal. It is a great work, simply but effectually done. We saw the powerful dredgers busily engaged in maintaining its depth; we passed steadily through it without a hitch ; we saw with interest the little stations ; the white town of Ismailia, with its waterworks and railway station ; the two bitter lakes, no longer dry ; the cuttings through low hills of limestone and gypsum; and at length entered the green Bay of Suez at its southern end. Anchored between the " Foun tains of Moses " on the eastern shore, and the " Rock of Deliverance " on the west, we witnessed one of the most golden sunsets I have seen in the Eastern world. This easy passage from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean has revolutionised the carrying trade of the East. The great fleets of sailing ships which in former years rounded the Cape with the silk and tea of China, with the indigo and jute, the sugar and tea, the silk and cotton of India, the Ariel and Taeping, the Hotspur, and Renown, and City of Calcutta, and their companions, of which the mercantile world was justly proud, have passed away, and have given place to lines of steamers which swarm in every port of the Indian seas, and which at small expense bring home their precious cargoes without hindrance through the simple green lane of the Suez Canal.

There is, how ever, one drawback to the satisfaction with which the new arrangement is carried out, — the fee paid for the passage. The " little bill " presented to the Amazone for its seventeen hours' work amounted to £1400 ! The Red Sea is proverbially hot in June, July, and August, and we found it hot indeed. For five days the thermometer ranged between eighty-seven degrees at night and ninety-eight degrees by day; but the heat was tempered by pleasant winds ; and no one seemed distressed by it, except those who drank large quantities of claret and water to keep them cool. Under circumstances peculiarly favour able, our noble steamer pressed forward with perfect steadiness, and after a run of four days and a half from Suez, anchored on Friday morning in Aden harbour. The general verdict of Indian visitors respecting Aden, is that it is a "horrid hole."

Certainly the scenery is not brilliant, it is deficient in verdure ; and in the middle of the year, with wild west winds, the thermometer stands nearer one hundred degrees than ninety degrees. Neverthe less Aden has an interest of its own ; and associations of deep interest cluster around it. The peninsula of Aden, which cuts off from the sea a wide landlocked harbour is formed by an immense volcano, a mile wide in the interior and having huge walls and buttresses of cindery lava all around it. It is a weird-looking place ; but it has for many ages been a helper to the commerce of the world. An out post of India, well governed, it has long been the protector of the overland trade and a good coaling station. Its im portance has increased with the opening of the Canal ; and at times several steamers call every day for water, ice, and coal.

Beyond this Aden was, next to Zanzibar, the prin cipal station of the most ancient commerce of the world. The Phenicians knew and used it before the days of Hiram. The fleets of Solomon called there on their way to Cochin and Malabar, whence, after their three years' voyage, they bore to Judea " the ivory, ebony, apes, and peacocks " de scribed by their Indian names in the sacred records. To Solomon are attributed the cutting and completion of the great water tanks, which were rediscovered, cleansed, and enlarged by the government of India only eight years ago. From Aden went forth whole fleets of Phenician vessels, to the coasts of India and Africa ; and in the middle a^es it was one great stay of the eastern trade from which Europe. had been entirely cut off. After a three days' delay in Aden, on board the Duplcix, the corresponding steamer to which we had been transferred, we again started for a fortnight's voyage down the Indian Ocean to Mauritius.

The Gulf of Aden we found hot but quiet ; but the moment we passed the great lime stone promontory of Cape Gardafui, though the thermometer fell fifteen degrees, we ran into a rough sea, which com pletely upset us all. For three days Mr. Pillans and I scarcely appeared on deck. To lie still and listless was most pleasant; we ate nothing, drank nothing, except water, and did nothing. But at the end of three days we grew accustomed to the motion, and life went on quietly as before. Mrs. Pillans suffered far more than we. The season of the south-west monsoon is well known in all the eastern seas, for its strong winds and wild waters. It is singular that the wind blows hardest near the African coast ; no vessels going down that coast can face it with advantage; the steamers therefore shape their course far out in the direction of Ceylon, and bend round toward the south, when the wind and sea fall lighter.