A Summer Ramble in Syria, with a Tartar trip from Aleppo to Stamboul

Chapter I

Character of Arab Servants. — Godoloski. — Anecdotes of him. — Osman Effendi. — Intended Pilgrimage to Mount Sinai. — Hamet the Just. — Bedouin Tribes about Mount Sinai. — Start for Mount Sinai. — Streets of Cairo. — -Arrive at Ravine beyond the Caliphs' Tombs. — Return to Cairo. — Dissatisfied with Hamet. — Ankle-ring. — Start a second time. — Trick of the Sheikh. — Indulgence to Arabs misapplied. — Return again and dismiss him. — Bedouins not always dilatory. — Absurdity of Eastern Manners with re gard to Business. — Hire a Kangia. — Leave Cairo for Damietta. . . . . . .1

Chapter II

Pigeon Cities on the Damietta branch. — Adrian's sarcasm on Chicken Ovens. — Mansoura. — Reis refuses to track. Papyrus found in the Anapus. — Dionysius. — Damietta. — Population. — Progress in courtesy. — Rice Mills. — Fine Cattle. — Monopoly of the Pacha. — British Consul. — Invita- CONTENTS. VI tion to Supper Kiosk. — Reflections upon Smoking. — Sprig of Geranium. — England, a favourite topic with the Consul. — Pacha 's resources. — Steam Carriages. — Indul gence in Rakkee. — Arab Minstrel. — Excessive Drinking of the Turks. — Supper. — Departure. — Engage a jerm for Jaffa. . . . . . -20

Chapter III

Port of Lesbeh. — Boghaz. — Tempestuous Wind.— A Day lost. — Leave the Port. — Narrow Escape in passing the Boghaz. — Off El Arish. — Fail of making Jaffa. — Stand out to Sea Stormy Night. — Port of Caiffa — Obliged to quit it. — Acre — Its Port — Turris Muscarum. — Siege ofthe Pacha. — Colonel Seve. — Treat with some Druses for Donkeys. — The Belus. — The Kishon. — Wrecks upon the Shore. — Mount Carmel. — Convent of St. Elias. — Hospitality of Monks. . . . . . .42

Chapter IV

Start for Jerusalem, by Ramleh. — Cave of Elijah. — Atleet, formerly called Castrum Peregrinorum. — Occupa tion by the Venetians. — Christian Ruins. — Unchristian Spirit of Samaritan Women. — Efficacy of Turkish Lan guage. — Tantoura, or Dor. — Turkish Post-house. — Ran cour of the Inhabitants against each other. — Dangerous state of the Road. — Leave Tantoura. — End of Mount Car mel. — Valley of Sharon. — River said to contain Crocodiles. — Cæsarea — Desolation of. — Herod's Magnificence. — Ap pearance of Christian Ruins. — Rose of Sharon. — Fine Hunting Country.— Spring near the Sea. — Melon Culture. — Shoot a Stork — Arab reverence for these birds. — Village CONTENTS. VII of Manhalleet.— Black Bedouin Tents.— Murder of four Men by the Kourds. — Tract of Sand. — Crocodile Lake. — Village of Marran — Supposed to be Apollonia. — Xans of Syria. — Sociability of an Ass. . . . .60

Chapter V

Leave Marran. — Shrubs of the country. — Dead Buffalo. — Plains of Philistia. — Tetrao rubricollis. — Cultivation. — Primitive simplicity of Ploughs. — Convent of St, Nicodemus at Ramleh. — Warder — His appearance and language. — Supe riore — His fallacious aspect. — Cistern of Santa Helena. — Samson's House. — Various names of Ramleh. — Tower of Knights Templar. — Leave Ramleh. — Compagnons de Voy age. — Baggage overthrown. — Difficult Pass. — Resembling Argolis and Arcadia. — Cleverness of Horses. — Wild Plants. — Sheikh of Arab Village. — Formation of the Houses. — Fourchette by stream. — Hills of Benjamin. — Tetrao saxatilis. — First sight of Jerusalem. — Literal fulfilment of Prophecy. — Enter by Bethlehem Gate. — Egyptian Soldiers. — Prophecy concerning. — Traces of splendour lost, a proof of its former existence. — Batli of Bathsheba. — Franciscan Convent. — Spanish Monk. — Messrs. Gregg and Fergusson. — Town crowded with Pilgrims. — Lodge in the Casa Nuova. — Prin cess of Wales. . . . . .87

Chapter VI

Chiesa del San Sepolcro. — Greek function there. — Pro cession of Fanatics. — Scene described. — Origin of the Holy Fire. — Contest between the Greeks and Armenians. — Resemblance of Jewish Fast, as inveighed against by Isaiah. — Start for Convent of Saint Giovanni. — House of CONTENTS. Elizabeth Valley of Elah. — Slippery roads. — Cave of St. John.— Modin, the residence ofthe Maccabees.— Luncheon at Convent. — Return to Jerusalem. — Tombs of the Kings. — Engage horses for the Pilgrimage to the Jor dan. HO

CHAPTER VIL

The Pilgrims leave Jerusalem for the Jordan. — A Wo man shot by the Soldiers. — Practice among the Greeks of firing with Ball. — Bethany.— Sir F. Henniker.— Fallen Camel. — Aqueduct. — Plain of Jericho. — Dead Sea. — Mountains of Moab.— Valley of the Jordan. — Nebk Tree. — Aqueducts. — Encampment. — View of Richa. — Zac cheus's House. — Gilgal. — Camp illuminated with Bitumen. — Baptismal Spot. — Ceremony. — Original Scene. — Pilgrim drowned. — Mount Nebo. .... 129

Chapter VIII

English party ride to the Dead Sea. — Colour of the sur face ofthe Plain. — Cairn at the end ofthe Sea. — Apple of Sodom. — Deposit upon the Stones. — Volney and Profes sor Daubeney. — Their hypothesis questioned — Tacitus. — Strabo. — Lot's Wife. — Buoyancy of the Water of the Dead Sea. — Incrustation upon the Skin. — Morel's ham. — Cyprisi — Visit to Jericho. — Remains of Aqueduct. — Elisha's Foun tain. — Mount Quarantania. — Probability of the Tradition respecting it. — Site of Phasael. — The Arab Guard come in search of us — Tales of danger. — Beautiful Mare. — Diffi culties of Arab Horse-dealing. — Second Visit to Richa. — Ferocious Horse — Officer's description of his Virtues. — Anecdotes of equine fondness common. — Mrs. Jordan. — Break up of Pilgrim encampment at midnight. — Reach Jerusalem in the morning. .... CONTENTS. IX

Chapter IX

Gate of Judgment. — Via Dolorosa Legend of Santa Veronica. — Spot where Simon of Cyrene took up the Cross. — Houses of Dives and Lazarus Arch from whence Pilate showed our Saviour to the People — Prætorium. Santa Scala. — Mosque Garden. — The received Site ofthe Temple. — Description of Mosque. — Flying Stone. — Iron Crown and Lance of David. — Solomon's Seat of Justice. — Tomb of Aaron Mosque of Omar. — Manger of our Lord. — Souterrain. — Columns. — Golden Gate. — Prediction credited among the Moslem. — Cosdroa. — Exaltation of the Cross. — Prophecy of Ezekiel. — Tomb of Solomon Proseuchæ. — Arx Antonia. — Turris Stratonis. — House of the Virgin, and of Santa Anna. — Gate of St. Stephen. — Pool of Bethesda. — Mount of Olives. — Brook Kedron. — Garden of Gethsemane Spot where our Lord wept over Jerusalem. — Scene of the Ascension. — Galilee. — Beth phage. — Bethany. — Tomb of Lazarus. — Ruins of Queen Melisenda's Convent. . . . .170

Chapter X

Tomb ofthe Virgin and Joseph. — Valley of Jehoshaphat. — Supposed Pillar of Absalom. — Tomb of Jehoshaphat and ofZacharias. — " Three Weeks in Palestine." — Hypothesis started in it, not applicable to the Pillar of Absalom. — Asinelli Tower of Bologna. — Sandys. — Breidenbach. — Beda. — Tomb of Jehoshaphat, called by Sandys the Cave of St. James. — Anecdote of Athenian Muleteer. — Jewish Graves. — Mount of Corruption. — Ashtaroth, Chemosh and Milchom. — Their Shrines destroyed by Josiah. — Valley of Siloam. — Pool of Siloam. — Its supposed properties. — Fig- X CONTENTS. tree on which Judas hanged himself. — Valley of Hinnom. —Abominable Worship of Moloch.— Tophet.— Polyandrion. — Aceldama. — Earth transported to Rome and Pisa. — Pis cina Superior. — Fons Gion Inferior. — Gates of Jerusalem enumerated. — Palace of Caiaphas. — Spot of St. Peter's denial. — Cœnaculum. — Tomb of David. — Hyrcanus.— Feast of Beirim. — Piscina Interior, made by Hezekiah. — Uncer tainty of traditions with respect to Jerusalem. . 190

Chapter XI

Mount Moriah. — Spot of Abraham's Sacrifice. — Gregory Nissenus ; his observation. — Description ofthe Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and traditions relating to it. — Death of Fulco recorded by William of Tyre. — Holy Sepulchre described — Greek Chapel. — Perforated Stone, called Pur gatory. — Chapel of Santa Helena. — Monks residing within the Church. — Insulted in the Turkish quarter. — The science of Medicine advantageous for a Missionary. . 210

Chapter XII

Visit to Hebron. — Reports of Plague and Cholera. — Ibrahim's Troops arrive at Jerusalem. — A Detachment march to Hebron. — Casa di Mal Consiglio. — Fountain where the Star appeared to the Wise Men. — Convent of St. Elias. — Sepulchre of Rachel — Pools of Solomon Ruins of a Monastery for Nuns. — Aqueduct. — Covered Cistern Forest of Hareth. — Source of Aqueduct. — Its Course Tasso's Description of the Supplies of Water in Jerusalem, imaginary.— Position of the Towns combined to chastise Gibeon. — Beth-horon. — Palace of Abraham Christian Ruins. — Reach Hebron. — Progress of Discipline in the Arab Army. — Disarmed at the Gate. . . CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIII

Town of Hebron. — The Plains of Mamre. — Pelted and ill-treated by the Arabs. — Gun restored by the Captain ofthe Company. — Okella. — Bedouins of El Arish. — Visit the Tomb of Abner. — Turkish Confusion of Dates. — In terest attached to the Tomb of Abner. — Cave of Macpelah. — The Tombs of the Patriarchs — Conference between Abra ham and the Children of Heth, Remarks upon. — Adam supposed to have been formed of the Soil of Hebron. — Leave Hebron. — Lodges or Watch-towers in the Garden near Bethlehem. — Groups sitting under the Vines and Fig-trees. — Manufacture at Bethlehem. — Convent of St. Catherine. — Chapel of the Nativity. — Chamber of the slaughtered Innocents. — School of Jerome. — Tombs. — Cave ofthe Virgin. — Labyrinth in Monte Francese. — Well which David's soul thirsted after. . . . 235

Chapter XIV

Visit the Pools of Solomon. — Description of the Hortus Conclusus. — Chapel where the Angel appeared to the Shep herds. — Cave of Engeddi described — Return by short route to Jerusalem. ..... 253

Chapter XV

Departure from Jerusalem. — Cavalry collecting the Taxes. — Egyptian Camp, — Reflections upon.— Shaffat. — Village of El Vyra, the Michmash of Scripture — The place where Mary turned back to search for our Lord. — Hills resembling Fiesole. — Village of Singan. — Village of CONTENTS. Howara. — Remain there for the night. — Peasantry as semble about the Tent.— Cistern supposed by Maundrell to be Jacob's Well.— Enter the Valley between Ebal and Gerizim.— Gate of Sychar. — Deep Well near Gate,— Remarks upon. — Shechem destroyed by Abimelech. — Tombs in the side of Mount Ebal. — Ascend the sides of the Mountain. — Fortress of Sanoor, — Destroyed by Ab dullah. — Newly-formed Lake. — Arab's incredulity about it. Source ofthe Kishon. —Jezreel. — Plain of Esdraelon. Mountains of Gilboa. — Village of Soolem. — Abernethy's Nostrum. — Tent blown down. — Fierce Dogs. — Remove Tent. — Pursued by Arabs. — Hermon the Less. — Nain. — Mount Tabor. — Endor. — Galilean Mountains. — Women gathering Thistles. — Village of S. Giacomo. — Reach Nazareth. ...... 263

Chapter XVI

Superiore of Convent. — Repast. — Chapel of the Santa Casa. — Account of it as believed by Roman Catholics. — Miraculous Column. — Workshop of Joseph. — Table of our Lord. — Synagogue whence the people thrust Him out. — Precipice, Site of erroneous. — Ahmet destroys the Convent Clock. — Lame Horse. — Village of Deborah. — Mount Tabor called Itabyrium and Mastois — Its rich appearance. — Cavern where our Lord charged the Disciples not to tell what they had seen. — Chapel of the Transfiguration Strength of the Walls built by Josephus. — Pezzo of Polygonal. — Bazaar held near the foot of the Mountain. — Alarm ex cited by the appearance of Bedouins.— Tribute levied upon Nazareth. — Severity of the Pacha's Demands. . 284

Chapter XVII

Departure for Tabaria. — Fountain of the Virgin Cana of Galilee. — Water-pot preserved in Greek Church. — The CONTENTS. XIII Triclinium no longer remaining. — Fields where the Disci ples plucked the ears of corn Mount of Beatitudes. — Lily of the Field supposed to be the Hemerocallis Flava of Linnæus. — Wells where the Five Thousand were fed. — Approach to Tabaria. — Sites of Bethsaida and Chorazim. — Walls of Town. — Fleas in Church. — Visit the Moosellim. — Conversation. — Stroll out to Baths. — Description of Pacha's Villa. — Antiquities.— House of Jewess. — View of Lake — Reflections upon. — Sleepless night. . . 303 EMBELLISHMENTS. Breaking up of the Pilgrim Encampment on the Banks of the Jordan at Midnight. To face Title. Vol. I. Bivouac on Mount Lebanon previous to passing the Snow. To face Title Vol. A SUMMER RAMBLE IN SYRIA.

Chapter I

Character of Arab Servants. — Godoloski. — Anecdotes of him. — Osman Effendi. — Intended Pilgrimage to Mount Sinai. — Hamet the Just. — Bedouin Tribes about Mount Sinai. — Start for Mount Sinai. — Streets of Cairo.- — -Arrive at Ravine beyond the Caliphs' Tombs. — Return to Cairo. — Dissatisfied with Hamet. — Ankle-ring. — Start a second time. — Trick of the Sheikh. — Indulgence to Arabs misapplied. — Return again and dismiss him. — Bedouins not always dilatory. — Absurdity of Eastern Manners with regard to Business. — Hire a Kangia. — Leave Cairo for Damietta. Cairo, March 1833. There are no accompaniments more indispensable to the enjoyments and advantages of travelling than sound health, a happy temper, and a good servant ; and yet, what gifts are of a more uncertain tenure ? The two first frequently depend so closely upon each other, VOL. I. b ARAB SERVANTS. that when one is shaken the other is destroyed ; and when both are lost, a man is thence forward fit only for seclusion.

The last is of rare growth, and difficult of preservation ; for those most valued are often found, when weighed, to be most wanting. An Arab, however, never enters your service in the questionable character of a " treasure." It is a proposition universally received, that all Arabs are lazy, false, and dishonest ; so that when prepared for the worst, it is a relief should one be found less endowed than you expect with the propria of his species. I lingered near three weeks at Cairo, awaiting the arrival of a servant from Alexandria, who having frequently travelled through Syria, knew everything, was well known, and gene rally accounted the best attendant in Egypt for that expedition. Although a Greek by birth, he was not more dishonest than an Arab; a tribute of commendation which no reasonable man expects in one of the Greek nation.

He was, however, employed by an Englishman who could not at that moment discharge him. In order to dissipate the ennui which never fails to sit heavily upon a tra- GODOLOSKI. 3 veller during a protracted residence in Cairo, I occasionally visited the shop of one Godo loski, a vender of cosmetics, attracted by the infinite variety of anecdotes which he had at command, and the ludicrous manner in which he told them ; but some passages in his life merit to be related, as adding to the many cases in which Fortune sports with us, in the plenitude of her influence, chequering our existence with brighter or gloomier colours, according to the wayward frolics of her fancy. This lively little Frank had visited divers countries, without residing in any one long enough to acquire its language ; accordingly, his patois was a mosaic of all known tongues, with much that belonged to none.

By birth a Pole, he was early consigned to the care of an uncle, a clergyman in Philadelphia, whose roof he left in consequence of his aunt smiting him in the face with a coffee-pot. Houseless for the night, he took shelter in a watch-box, and was next morning carried before the mayor as a vagrant. His uncle being sent for, used every argument to induce him to return, but to no purpose : Godoloski had resolved to visit his b ■4 ANECDOTES OF GODOLOSKI. native land, and nothing could shake his deter mination ; whereupon his kind-hearted uncle wept, and beat his aunt, — and the young Pole took his leave of America, and his passage for Europe in a French vessel. During the voyage he was captured by the Dutch, and being detained a prisoner for ten months, sub sequently passed into England, and fixing him self at Manchester, married the daughter of a rich merchant.

" Now," said he, " I kept my carriage." But, alas ! the instability of all hu man happiness ! La Fortuna, Deidad barbara, importuna, Hoy cadaver y ayer flor, No permanece jamas ! His wife died, his riches perished, and having visited all the chief towns in England, he settled in Edinburgh, where his great solace seems to have been oat-cake and milk-porridge, the recollection of which even now makes him rub his hands with delight. After this he travelled into Russia; but finding nothing there to detain him, went to France and resided at Lyons, where he became a soap-boiler, publican, and preacher. Here he flourished, his revenues increased, and he had lodged some thousand ANECDOTES OF GODOLOSKI. 5 francs in the Lyons bank, when the house failed, and becoming again penniless, he was compelled to migrate.

His next attempt was in the northern part of European Turkey, whence he finally came to Cairo, and now occupies a shop about nine feet square in the Frank quarter, where he practises as chemist, perfumer, and physician. His dearest wish at present is to return to Scotland, marry a Scotchwoman, and breakfast on oat-cake and milk-porridge. This general trader recommended to my notice a certain Pole as a suitable person for a servant ; honestly assuring me at the same time, that he was a very bad character, and extremely lazy ; but that, if he could not find the means of removing from Cairo immediately, he would probably lose his head by the hand of his late master, one of the beys, who had just returned from the army. What his offence had been I could not learn, though I questioned Godoloski on the subject.

It was hinted by some one else, that he had been a more frequent visitor in the hareem* than the * In the orthography of this word I have followed the Oriental pronunciation " hareem." A POLISH SERVANT. absent colonel would approve of: an offence, however, for which no man could be deprived of his head, under the late constitutional enact ments of Mohammed Ali; although he might lose his life from severe chastisement with the corbash, an instrument cut from the hide of the hippopotamus, supplies of which are brought down the Nile by the slave-boats. In size and form this weapon resembles an English jockey whip, but is more elastic ; when kept well oiled it takes a polish and becomes perfectly black. It is occasionally mounted with silver, and may be seen in the hands of most well-bred Egyptians.

The man now recommended to me was a conspicuous figure in the Frank quarter, where he might be seen continually lounging about, until the unexpected return of the Bey warned him to keep out of the way. His dress was tight and green, with a new and glossy tar boush exquisitely set upon his head, from which dangled a dignified exuberance of blue tassel ; and the delicate cane which ever and anon he pressed against his lip, gave him the air and pretension of a petit-maitre, which were ill supported by a voice and manner insuf- A FRENCH SERVANT. 7 ferably coarse. He had been Turcoman* to beys and pachas, and though under twenty five years of age, spoke the Eastern and several European languages fluently. He was more over well acquainted with Syria, Asia Minor, and the North of Europe. His notorious bad character was rather in my favour ; for being upon my guard, I was less likely to be imposed upon.

But he wished to travel rather as com panion than servant, in which capacity I de clined taking him : " Then," said Godoloski, " I have it ; I know ze man for you, God bless you, sir, ze first cook in all Cairo — talks all language. God bless you, sir, when I serve a gentleman, I serve him. I tell you, sir, ze honestest man in all Cairo ; but if he get ze bottle, he be drunk, always drunk. A very honest man ! — ze d rogue, he pass my botick all day : I not see him now, z'very curioso. He ze man for you, sir ; — I tell you, sir, in ze desert c'est impossible, he not find aqua vita. Ah, ze rogue, he come now. Shoos enti, (look you ! — calling to him,) un signore veutparler con vous." * ■ Interpreter," commonly called by Europeans " Drago man," for what reason I know not, as it is not so pro nounced in the East.

A FRENCH SERVANT. He came at the call, and proved to be a Frenchman, small of stature and oppressed with years. His dress was ragged and loaded with dirt, comprising neither waistcoat nor neckcloth. His shirt and skin were of a dark chestnut, and his coat and shoes hung loosely upon a body squalid and feeble from habitual drunkenness ; while a torrent of tobacco-juice was pouring from either corner of his toothless mouth. He conversed fluently in French and Italian ; but as Godol oski now confessed, " No sir, him speak no Arabs." The Frenchman gave a glowing description of his own merits, to all which he said the other could testify, and that no one could say any harm of him. He was intoxicated, and seemed to be a man of considerable talent ; but he was not exactly the sort of thing I wanted.

Osman* Effendi being present at the time, called to a young Arab, who was passing, to come and be examined ; upon which my friend Godoloski grew furious : — " I tell you, sir, dat * The superior Turcoman to the British Consulate at Cairo, whose intimate acquaintance with Egyptian man ners, customs, and people, renders his services invaluable ; and these are with much kindness tendered to all travellers. INTENDED PILGRIMAGE. 9 man is ze first ties in all Cairo, — when I serve a gentleman, I serve him. If you take dat man, he is ze first ties." The lad was about eighteen, and knew nothing, except perhaps some few clever things in the way of the trade, to which Godoloski said he could turn his hand. In this emergency, the Pole again petitioned to be taken on the most humble terms ; his situation every day becoming more critical.

He now offered to cook, clean boots, or do anything that might be required ; and I was compelled to accede, though without any sanguine foreboding of his suiting me. , It had long been my wish to make a pilgrimage to Mount Sinai, and attempt reaching the Wady el Ghor, by the way of Wady Mousa ; a route accomplished only by Seetzen, until the last year, when all parts of the desert near to and northward of Akaba had been visited by a Frenchman,* whose residence there for many months, it might be presumed, had in some degree softened the antipathy of the Bedouins toward Europeans, and rendered the prospect of success more favourable. •* M. Linant. TRIBES ABOUT MOUNT SINAI. For this purpose, I had engaged four dromedaries of Hamet el Rasheidi,* a sheikh of one of those five tribes who, when combined, are called Towara, or Bedouins of Tor.f Hamet engaged, after conveying me to Mount Sinai, to assist me in the best manner he could in effecting my progress forward ; and as a preliminary measure, he introduced me to a sheikh of the Heywat tribe, to whom the district about Akaba belongs ; and who, when united with the Terabeen, a tribe holding the north-west side of the desert, and with the Bedouins of El Tigh, are frequently engaged in wars with the Towara ; during the existence of which it would be difficult to pass from one to the other.

At the present moment, these warriors had beaten their swords into some more peaceful tools, though neither ploughshares nor prun ing-hooks, and the Heywat sheikh had little doubt that a traveller might pass the Wady Mousa, upon satisfying the reasonable demands of his three associate clans. * "Hamet the Just." + A place upon the eastern shore of the Red Sea ; or the name may be derived from Jebel Tor, the Arabic appellation of Mount Sinai, in which district their territories lie. START FOR MOUNT SINAI. The dromedaries were strong and active of their kind ; and the one appropriated to my use was of great beauty. He was white, in fine condition, and so tractable, that the slightest motion of the light cord which hung from his head would turn him in any direction; and so easy in his paces, that he seemed rather to float through the air than to walk the earth.

Our progress along the town was necessarily extremely slow, by reason of the narrowness of the streets, crowded as they are with foot passengers of all nations, together with well mounted Turks, and their dismounted at tendants, who in blue shirts, " well girt," run before the horses, and bear the pipe-sticks of their masters. Besides these, there are ladies and gentlemen on asses, who thread their way at a brisk run, heedless of every impediment ; the donkey-boy continually screaming out, " ridluc sheymarnuck, sheymeenuck," (move to the right — to the left,) as the case may require. Fortunately carriages and four are not nu merous ; but the convenience arising from the scarcity of them is counteracted by the long strings of camels, which supplying the place of aqueducts, transport water from the Nile to all RETURN TO CAIRO. parts of the city, and with their dripping burdens occupy so much of the street, that it is not easy to pass them on foot without receiving a portion in your pocket.

We were scarcely en route before the sheikh left us, and having gone forward at a slow pace to a ravine little more than half a league from the Caliphs' Tombs, Harness slave, with a Be douin who had joined us, began to unload the dromedaries, conveying to me the intelligence that we must remain there until the sheikh's arrival. Patience is not equally dispensed to all: when my allowance was exhausted, I compelled the men to reload, and returning to my lodging, detained the best animal, while the slave was despatched in search of the sheikh. Upon his appearance he apologized by saying that Ahmet Pacha, the minister of war, had imprisoned him, hoping to get possession of his dromedaries ; but finding that he was in the service of an English man, had afterwards released him. To this tale of course I gave no credit.

Upon my demanding the money which he had received previous to our departure, he pro tested that he had spent it ; but drew from his SECOND DEPARTURE FOR MOUNT SINAI. 13 breast a large ankle ring,* which he tendered in lieu of it. It was stamped as silver, and weighed nearly a pound. But upon his pro mising to cause no more delays, I started with him on the following day. Having halted outside the Bab el Nasrh,f on a rising ground near the fountain, the best dromedary was disburdened, in order, as the sheikh said, to lay on the provender for the journey. Satisfied with this explanation, I moved away, my attention being diverted to other objects ; and it was not until summoned to go forward that I discovered the trick which had been played. My own powerful sumpter dromedary had been taken away, and another substituted for it, so small and weak as to be totally unfit for the journey ; and this, it was said, would do well enough for me.

The number less vexatious incidents which were likely to arise from this man's want of faith determined me immediately to dismiss him, and instead of * He had bought this for one of his wives, — a common method of investing money among the Bedouins. These rings are worn by the women, who being held sacred, and left inviolate in the casualties of war, the property is thus secured. t "Gate of Victory." MANUAL CHASTISEMENT. visiting Mount Sinai, to reach Jerusalem by the usual route, if possible, before the Greek feast of Easter. Up to this moment I had scrupulously for borne to lay hands on " Hamet the Just," not withstanding repeated provocations; reflect ing that when among his tribe I should be completely at his mercy, and any severity toward him might be visited upon me with interest. The privilege of redressing grievances by the summary process of manual chastisement is one conceded by the Pacha to all sufferers of certain rank; and though painful to feelings imbibed by European education, it is absolutely indispen sable for the progress of the traveller in a country where all other arguments are unavailing.

I knew only one instance in Egypt, where reason and indulgence were persevered in beyond certain limits, by one who told me that after being subjected for six weeks* to every sort of annoy ance, and needless delays upon the Nile, his boat being purposely run upon the sandbanks, the crew quitting it at the villages, and some times detaining him for two days, or even more, * Travellers generally seize the first occasion to punish a mutinous crew, and their orders are afterwards attended to. INDULGENCE TO ARABS MISAPPLIED. his good temper was broken by these repeated trespasses upon it, and his men refusing to track, he proceeded to punish them, when they rushed upon him in a body, and but for the timely in terposition of his servant with his pistols, would probably have done him some serious mischief.