The Expiring Continent: a narrative of travel in Senegambia ... With map and ... illustrations

Preface

. dPHE aim of the Author of the following pages has }J. been to describe some of the more interesting passages of a journey in a part of the world too little known. When travelling and taking notes of the manners and customs of the people and the natural productions of Africa — to see which was the chief object of his journey — he had no intention of pub lishing his observations, and, therefore, took little Ueed of dates, hence their absence from the following pages. A. residence since childhood and education in Bussia and other continental countries, foUowed by a lengthened sojourn among the native populations of Asia and the remoter parts of Africa, disqualify the Author from any pretensions to elegance in English Uterary composition, and should the reader, there fore, discover in the narrative any phrase not strictly idiomatic, this almost continuous absence from Eng land must be the writer's excuse.

At the same time it is hoped that the information here given may be not only of interest to the general public, but help to clear away the obscurity and misapprehension as to the negro race which have hitherto so greatly hindered the successful colonisation of Africa. The Author also hopes that this volume may be of some value to those engaged in establishing and developing African commerce, and who have the welfare of their mother country as well as that of the African people at heart. A. W. M1TCHINSOX. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAG K 1. Frontispiece. A Snake Temple. .... 4.68 2. Jack Tars at Madeira . . . . . • .16 8. Mountain Dnet ........ 56 4. Among the Ants ........ 228 5. A Queen of the Desert ...... 218 5. 6. A Leopard Attack ....... 272 7. Infuriated Elephants 21)0 8. Hyenas' Lair 308 9.

A Mangled Athlete 316 10. Crocodiles 371 11. View of Bathurst 390 12. Christian Funeral ....... 407 13. Bainunka's Idol 42S 11. Bats 440 15. Lion and Dog Fight ....... 403 10. The Magic Flute 460 17. Route Map of Senegamhia. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Westward — In the Luso — The blase traveller — A glimpse at Madeira — Funchal — Senhora do Monte — Cephalopod — Curral — Life in Madeira — Wine — Equestrianism — Madeira as a Sanatorium — The sick levee ... \

CHAPTER 11.

On the Atlantic — The solitary sentinel — Characteristics of Teueriffe — Life of the natives — Santa Cruz — A merry crew — Cockroaches — A night in the tropical sea — Shooting stars — Scientific discussion — A delicate morsel— Climatic dogmas — Whales spouting— A rush for Medusæ — Nearing St. Vincent — A curious naturalist ------ 21

Chapter III

Description of St. Vincent — A simple cure of fever — J'ate of a turtle — The turtle fleet — The islanders — A terrible story — A contented Englishman — A narrow escape — Sail to St. Antao — Life in Santa Cruz — A mountain duet — Dust phenomenon — Another fever attack- -Fishery in the sea of blood — A learned man's end - 44

Chapter IV

En route for Africa — Sickly passengers — Dietetics of life — Goree — Mental apathy — Historical remarks — Description of St. Louis — Hospitable reception — African in-door life — A sanguinary battle — Franco-African civilisation— A native marriage — Bop N'Dar — Wandering story-tellers - - - 67

Chapter V

Mahometism and Christianity — Savagery and Civilisation — Slow progress of Christianity — Failure in suppressing Mahometism — Policy of Marabouts — Oumar, the pilgrim — Missionary rivalry — Mistrust of natives — Native Christians— Brandypersuasives — Catholic and black missionaries — Antagonistic Churches --------vL CONTENTS. 141 164

Chapter VI

page The shifting bar — A tierce gale — An infested shark — Up the river — Cattle in swamps— The water-king — Maka — Miraculous gris-gris — Native education — A weird night — Jackal's morning gambols — A lost channel — A night encampment —A cruel marabout — Hyenas witches -Terrible results — Psychological wonders - - - - - 116

Chapter VII

After rain-storm — Exercise chief medicine— The sea devils— A fishing adventure — A terrible death — Mosquitos — Up the Tawey channel — Native life — On Foule lake — A caravan at N'Dar— Native cheap Jacks and market —Smiths and -carpenters — Sympathetic cure — Life of griots — Richard's toll — Naval architects --------

Chapter VIII

Native cultivation — Ruined French settlements — Fitful agriculture — Cotton — Indigo — Gum — Senegal policy — Ground nuts

Chapter IX

Gambia tribes — English policy —Native wars and their results — Chief Maba — King Macadou — Colonisation — Chimerical projects --------- 178

Chapter X

Abolition of slavery and its effects — Misused rights — African slaves and masters — Russian landlords and serfs - Exaggerated cruelty — Freedmen aud freedom— Look at home - - 103

CHAPTER XL

Dogana — An exacting chief — A quack cure — A wedding party — Oiling the body — Past Lamnajo — Town of nests — Monkeys outwitted — Honey collectors- First wax candle — Podor — Sail to Aleiebe — Sorrowing for the dead — Obstacles on the way — On a sand-bank — Salde — Bakal — Industry of Galam — Among the ants — An old slave-dealer— Characteristics of tribes — A friendly parting 200

Chapter XII

Konguel — In gloomy forests — Drowsy Moctard — Bamboukees — At Medina — A yellow negro — A queen of the desert — Hadji Ahmed in camp — A plundered caravan — Felou rock — The departed sea — Drying of the Upper plateau — Microscopic globe-builders -.---.._ CONTENTS. vLI 280 299 31 1 336 340 359

At Farabana — Wedding ceremonies — Funeral mockeries — An inquisitive mind— Export guns — Evening town life — A lion story — End of a brave hunter - - - -

Chapter XXI

Down the Faleme — Sansanding and its people — Gold — Neglected factories — A phenomenon — Quarrels aboard — Gold-stealers — Simple-minded chief — A boat-wreck — Water snakes — Beyond Dengui — Senou-Debou— A belt of fire — Cannibalism — The sarcastic Diavandous — Romance of Wonders vLII CONTENTS. 388 421 448

Chapter XXII

r.ri: Withered nature — With the old companion —A canvas town — Rhinoceros-bird — A wooden leg — King Daniel — Farewell to Senegal ... ... - 378

Chapter XXIII

Again at Madeira— Gambia in sight — Bathurst — Black Britons in the market — Engineering works — Schools — Churches — Misplaced pride — Land of mourning — Evils of spirits and tobacco — Recklessness of settlers — Christian funerals -

Macarthy's island — Cattle without head — Baragally — " Come and take it, " — Absence of protection — Monkey parliament