East of the Jordan: a record of travel and observation in the countries of Moab, Gilead and Bashan ... With an introduction by ... R. D. Hitchcock ... 70 illustrations and a map

Introduction

BY PROFESSOR ROSWELL D. HITCHCOCK D. D. PRESIDENT OF UNION THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, NEW-YORK NEW-YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 743 & 745 BROADWAY _OPYRlGHT, 1881, BY CHARLES SCRIBNEE'S SONS. TO Professor JOSEPH HENRY THAYER, D. D., WHOSE STEADFAST FRIENDSHIP I HAVE FOE MANY YEARS ENJOYED, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED. INTR OD Is C TION. The name Palestine occurs for the first time in Herodo tus. Like its Hebrew equivalent, " Pelesheth," or " land of wanderers," it meant only Philistia. In the later Greek and Roman period it was applied, as we apply it, to the whole country occupied by the Israelites on both sides of the Jordan. But as Canaan, the oldest of all the names, meant only the " lowland," or country west of the Jordan, so now most people, when they think of Palestine, give it the same narrow bound aries.

Eastern Palestine hardly comes into the account. And yet the historic associations belonging to the country east of the Jordan are rich and various. Two and a half of the twelve tribes that came out of Egypt under Moses chose that side of the river for their home. Syrian, Assyrian, and Chaldean armies marched in and out there. Some of the dis banded veterans of Alexander settled there. It was beyond the Jordan that John the Baptist began and ended his official career. Nearly six months of our Lord's brief ministry were spent on the same side of the river. The Christian Church itself sought refuge there when the Roman legions began to

INTRODUCTION.

. VI close in upon Jerusalem. In the time of the Antonines the country was full of cities, with their temples, theatres, and baths. In the fifth century Christian churches, well organ ized, were numerous and nourishing. The Biblical sites, to be sure, are not very many, as com pared with the multitude on the western side of the river. But they are of peculiar interest. The five cities of the plain were trans-Jordanie. Penuel, Mahanaim, and Succoth are suggestive names. Nebo and Pisgah are like household words. Bethabara, wherever it was beyond the Jordan, witnessed the descent of the Spirit upon the Founder of our religion. And somewhere in the wilderness beyond occurred what Milton calls the " great duel, not of arms." This whole section of country, though nominally a part of the Turkish Empire, is now, and has been for centuries, in the hands of Bedaween.

Travelling there is always difficult, if not always actually dangerous. TiU quite recently very little was known either about the country, its ruins, or its inhabitants. The ivork of exploration, however, is note fairly begun. Ami the author of the book here offered to the public has done con spicuous and excellent service in the field. He was no ordinary traveller. As Archceologist of the American Palestine Exploration Society, his opportunities were exceptionally good, and these opportunities were well improved. He showed ad mirable tact, and had rare good luck, in dealing with the Bedaween, whose habits he studied carefully, and among whom he dwelt as securely as in Andover. He has the credit of several important identifications. His " Topographical Notes

INTRODUCTION.

. VII on Eastern Palestine," in which he gives, in a concise and scholarly manner, the results of the explorations already made, withheld from publication for the present for reasons which need not be detailed, will appear in due time. The present volume has assumed a popular form. Personal incidents enliven the narrative. The illustrations are fresh aud original, many of them from the authors own drawings. The book contains a large amount of matter wholly new. The author was careful and patient in his investigations, and now tells the story of his life beyond the Jordan in a manner equally entertaining and instructive. ROSWELL D. HITCHCOCK. Union Theological Seminary, New York, August 15, 1881.

Preface

. On the 20th of October, 1874, I was appointed the archæologist of the American Palestine Exploration So ciety, and sailed from New York on the 19.7. of June, 1875, arriving at Beirut, our head-quarters in Syria, on Monday, the 9.7. day of August. During 1875-77 I made four different expeditions, of which the journal of but two is given at length in the following pages. On Thursday, December 23, 1875, I was placed in charge of the exploration work, which I carried on until the summer of 1877, tvhen I returned to America. I have since been retained by the Society to write reports and to assist Mr. Meyer in the prep aration of our maps. During the two years that I teas in the field, I labored under the immediate advice and direction of the Advisory Committee in BeiriU. This committee is composed of gentlemen who are familiar with many parts of Syria and Palestine, and who, in every way, are deserving of the highest respect and honor, and my relations with them were always exceedingly pleasant.

Special mention should here be made of Professor Roswell D. Hitchcock, D. D., of Union Theological Seminary, New York, who, as president of the Exploration Society, has labored indefatigably for its interests, and also of Mr. Rudolph Meyer, the Society's faithful engineer, by whose

PREFACE.

. X skilful hand its map has been prepared. I desire to ac knowledge my obligation to J. Henry Thayer, Professor in the Theological Seminary, Andover, Mass., and Timothy Otis Paine, Professor in the New Church Theological Seminary, Boston, Mass., likewise to Charles L. Merriam and George W. Steams, for valuable services rendered whilt carrying this work through the press. It may not be out of place for me to add, that of the large amount of archæological and other material in my possession connected ivifh Palestine, if has been found possible to introduce only a limited portion in the present volume. SELAH MERRILL. Andover, Mass., May 2, 1881. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. Preparations 1 H. Among the Cities of Bashan .... 10 m. " " " "..... 24 IV. " " " " 43 V. Hauran Architecture 60 VL Um el Jemal, the Mother of the Camel . 78 VH.

Personal Experiences 88 VIE Sick in the Desert 100 IX. On the Way to the Field 112 X. Around the Sea of Galilee . . . . 125 XL El Hamma, an Ancient Watering-Place . . 137 Xn. Gadara 145 XIII. Aphek, the Grave of a Syrian Army (I. Kings xx., 30) 159 XIV. The Jordan Valley 172 XV. " " 177 XVI. " " 191 XVH. Lower Jordan Valley. — The Shittim Plain . 206 XVHI. " " " " " • 222 XIX. Mount Nebo 240 XX. On the Upper Zerka, or Jabbok . . . 253 XXI, Gilead ......... 273 XXII. The Decapolis ....... CONTENTS. XXHI. Return 303 XXIV. On the March 313 XXV. Golan and Ashteroth Karnaim .... 320 XXVL Pilgrim Caravans 333 XXVH. An Underground City 348 XXVHI. The Wat<_h-Tower of Gilead .... 359 XXIX. On the Lower Zerka, or Jabbok . . . 372 XXX. Exploration of the Jabbok . . . . 381 XXXI. A War-Cloud 404 XXXH.

Condition of the Country . . . . 411 XXXTH. A Surprise Party 419 XXXTV. Mahanaim and Pella 425 XXXV. Our Lord at Capernaum and in Perea . . 448 XXXVI. Arab Life in the Desert 467 XXXVH. " " " 488 XXXVHI. " " " 503 XXXIX. Conclusion 516 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Where not otherwise stated, the illustrations are from photographs taken by the American Palestine Exploration Society, or from original drawings. PAGE Amman on the Upper Jabbok. Looking up the Valley to the South-west Frontispiece The Lava Bed in the Lejah . . From Wetzstein . 12 Tell Shaihan, in the Lejah . . From Burton and Drake 15 Temple at Musmieh 17 Interior of Temple at Musmieh . From De Vogiie . 1 8 Peripteral Temple at Kunawat 24 Plan of the Church at Edhr'a . From De Vogue" . . 29 Cyclopean Structure in the Lejah, neab Kirateh . 31 Temple at Suleim 32 Ancient Castle at Kunawat.

Roman Round-Tower in the Distance 36 Temple at Kunawat. Antique Head at the Right . . 38 Heads op Baal and Astarte . From "Unexplored Syria" 40 Colossal Head at Kunawat 41 Bullock's Head on an Altar of Basalt, from Kunawat . 42 Specimens of Ornamental Work in the ■, __ . tth o > . From De Vogue . 43 Hauran Architecture. From Si'a , y Specimens of Hauran Architecture, > __ „ , > From De Vogiie . . 44 From Si'a .... 5 Temple at AtIl LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XIV PAGE Ancient Sculpture found at 'Ary. Possibly a Representation of the Deity Dusares, or Bacchus ... 49 Lions and Palm-Tree. From the Castle at Salchad . 51 Castle at Salchad. In the Mouth of an Extinct Crater 52 Cathedral at Bozrah .... From De Vogiie . . 54 Mosque and Reservoir at Bozrah . . To face page 55 Anteroom Connected with the Theatre at Bozrah . 56 Remains of two Large Public Buildings, perhaps Temples, at Bozrah 57 Windows from the Hauran . .

From De Vogiie . 64 Windows and Doors from the Hauran From De Vogiie . . 65 Stone House in the Hauran . . From De Vogiie . 67 Windows from the Haur-ln . . From De Vogiie . . 69 Church and Houses at Um el Jemal 82 Es Salt To face page 90 Hyrcanus's Palace at 'Arak el EmIr 107 Assyrian Sculpture in the Rock. Near Tyre . . .118 Section of Rock, showing Assyrian Sculpture. Near Tyre 119 Syrian Horseshoe and Nails 135 Seats em the Bath at El Hamma 150 Twenty-three Varieties of Masons' Marks, from -the Stones in the Roman Bath at El Hamma, or Hot Springs of Gadara 151 Roman Road at Gadara 154 Door of a Tomb at Gadara 155 Candlestick (?) on a Lintel at F.k 162 Castle of Kaukab el Hauwa, as seen Across the Jordan Valley from the Hills South of Gadara . . .174 Natural Bridge and Hot Spring North of Pella . . 183 Mill-Stone in a Quarry en Jebel 'Ajlun . . . .190 Anceent Mill-Stone, Shittim Plain 231 Tombstone of a Bedawen Sheikh.

From near Hasban . 240 'Ayun Musa, or Fountains'of Moses From Due de Luynes 242 Ruens on Jebel Musa . . . From Due de Luynes 246 Plan of the M'Shita Ruin . . . From Dr. Tristram LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xv PAGE Gate at M'Shita 257 M'Shita. Interior View . . , . . . . .261 Tower at M'Shita 263 Plan of a Temple at Amman . . . . . . .264 Theatre at Gerash 272 Triumphal Arch at Gerash . . From Due de Luyues . 281 Temple op the Sun at Gerash 283 Niche in the Remains of an Elegant Edifice on the Long Street at Gerash 285 Temple at Gerash. Near the South Gate . . . 288 Jar from Irbid 295 Plan of Mahneh 355 Plan of Tell Deir 'Alla and Tulul edh Dhahab, or Succoth and penuel 390 Large Theatre at Amman, and Small Theatre at the Left 399 Ruin at Amman, Showing Holes in the Interior of the Walls 401 Ruined Bridge on the Jordan, near j the Mouth of the Jabbok . \ ■ Tofacepage 423 Bedawin Skull, from Khurbet Sar, the Old Testament Jazer" 486 Inscribed Stones from Ancient Tombs at Sidon . 520, 521 Fragment of Ancient Lead Sarcophagus .... 522 A Phœnician Idol, from Beirut. Front View . . 523 " " " " Side View . . . 523 Stone Projectile. From Banias 524 Figures on an Ancient Altar found at Jebail . . .

Chapter I

Preparations. Arrival in Beirut. City stricken with cholera. Difficulty in findin* quarters. Places revisited. Rapid growth. Importance given to schools and education. Wide influence of the Mission press. Commercial prospects. American petroleum trade. Imports and exports. Sponge fisheries. Historical notices of Beirut. The Christian stronghold in Syria. Advisory Committee of the American Palestine Exploration Society. Camp pitched at 'Abeih. Kindness of the American residents. Party made up. Route marked out. Beirut, Syria, Monday, August 23, 1875. OUR party, consisting of four Americans, has arrived on the Syrian coast at an unfortunate time, so far as undertaking any important work is concerned. The country is visitetl now by the dread disease of cholera, which has more terrors for the Oriental mind than the plague, famine or war.

Forty thousand people have fled from this city alone, and I have walked about these streets for two miles without seeing man, woman or child, an open door, or any sign of life except a few starving dogs — and these ought rather to be classed among the signs of misery and death. Still, the epidemic does not seem to be a very fatal one; for, if I am correctly informed by physicians here, the highest number of deaths a day is only thirteen. This, it must be remem bered, however, is among the few people that have been obhged to stay at home, so that no one can tell what the condition of things might have been had all the inhabi tants remained. The ports about the Mediterranean are guarded now by a strict quarantine, and we were detained at Alex andria for twelve days before we coidd get a steamer to Beirut.

We left Liverpool on Monday, July 12, 1875, in the steamer Magdala, Captain Greig, staying a part of a day at Gibraltar and an entire day and two nights at Malta, and arrived at Alexandria on Monday, .July 26. We sailed thence on Saturday, August 7, and reached Beirut on Monday, August 9. We found that the hotels were closed, and likewise the private houses and most of the stores and shops. Americans and other foreign residents were in the moun tains, the irrepressible dragoman had for once ceased to annoy the new-comer, and it appeared for a time as though we should not be able to get a tent pitched or find a roof beneath which we could obtain shelter. Fort unately for us, our Consul, Hon. J. T. Edgar, was at his post, and through his influence one of the hotels was opened, where we spent the remainder of that day and the foUowing night.

Meantime Rev. George E. Post, M. D., one of the Advisory Committee of the Palestine Exploration Society, arrived from the mountains, and gave us our present quarters in the Syrian Protestant College. This commodious building is on a bluff one mile or more west of the city, and commands a fine view of the Mediterranean on one side and of the town and the Lebanon Mountains on the other. We enjoy here what ever fresh breezes the sea affords, and are probably as PREPARATIONS. 3 exempt from the cholera as we should be in one of the mountain villages. Early in the year li869, after an extended tour in Egypt aud the Holy Land, I spent six or eight days in Beirut, and paid considerable attention to its history and places of interest. Some of these points I have revisited during the past two weeks, and, although the city has now so deserted an appearance, I see on every hand the signs of growth and of an' increased degree of pros perity.

The suburbs appear to be better cultivated than formerly, and in some sections of the town many fine houses have been built. The missions under the care of the different Protestant nationalities have a firmer hold on the attention of the people, and they have been aggres sive on the side of popular education to a degree that woidd have been surprising even under far more favorable circumstances. The substantial edifice in which we have found a temporary home is but one of the evidences that the native population of Syria are heartily desirous of improvement, while the adjoining medical college is bringing about a great transformation in the minds of the people with regard to a noble science which has hitherto ranked, among them, only with the magic arts. One of the most hopeful features connected with the work of education in Syria is the progress that has been made among the native women.

It is a noticeable but interesting fact that many Moslem parents have so far overcome their prejudices as to send their girls to Christian schools. In the present condition of affairs, it is inevitable that the educational work among women should be for the most part elementary in character. But, besides excellent schools of that grade, there are others, like the American Young Ladies' Seminary (to mention but one), where higher advantages are afforded, and the increasing num ber of trained young women who graduate every year from these advanced schools is an evidence that very many have got beyond the rudiments of learning and are anxious to become teachers, or to fit themselves for those positions of usefulness which only educated and intelligent women can fill with success. Further, the influence of the Mission press here is already of incalculable extent, and it is increasing year by year.

The buildings themselves are small; but in all the East civilization has not a stronger ally than this humble establishment on the sea-shore at the foot of Lebanon. Eight millions or ten millions of pages, printed in the Arabic language, are sent forth from this press every year, supplying the Arabic-speaking people of Western Asia and Egypt with a pure and Christian literature, and providing for them, by means of translations from Euro pean languages, the best educational and scientific works which their progress in knowledge demands. Ten centuries before Christ this place was the seat of a depraved idolatrous worship. Five centuries after Christ it had the finest law school in the Roman empire; and nineteen centuries after Christ it has already become the strong centre of Christianity and education — the forces which, I beheve, are destined to accomplish the moral and political and, consequently, the physical redemption of this long oppressed but glorious land.

This city cannot be compared with Alexandria as respects circumstances favorable for material growth At the same time Beirut enjoys unusual advantages in its climate, beautiful situation and scenery, in the fertility of its soil, and its abundant supply of water. Unlike any city of Egypt, this has a range of mountains so near as to furnish a retreat for the inhabitants during the long Syrian summer. When people here are exhausted PREPARATIONS. 5 with the tropical heat they can, in three or four hours on horseback, reach the higher parts of Lebanon, where the water is cool and the air fresh and bracing. Jebel Sunnin, which is in sight from this college, and is one of the highest peaks of the range, preserves, in its deep ravines and gorges, snow and ice during the entire year, and from this source the inhabitants of Beirut are supplied with these luxuries at a very reasonable cost.

Although not equal to Alexandria, Beirut is the most important commercial port on the Syrian coast, and among the facts of special interest which I have learned is, that most of the vessels which bear the United States flag, arriving here, come with cargoes of petroleum. Foreigners shorten this word into "petrole," while the natives call the article "gas." It began to be imported directly about 1867, and during that year 50,000 gallons arrived at Beirut. But the trade has so increased that last year nearly 1,000,000 gallons arrived in American ships alone. This oil is not ah consumed in Beirut, but is distributed over the whole of Syria. SmaU native craft take it to other ports along the coast, and it is carried inland to Damascus and the other towns throughout the central and northern portions of the country, and finds its way even to the cities and villages along the Euphrates.

Among the other articles of import here I may specify, without going too deeply into detads, hardware, crockery and glass ware, furniture, sewing-machines, boots, shoes, and leather, wines and spirits, drugs and medicines, rice, coffee, sugar and flour, stationery, fancy goods, wooUen and silk goods, cotton goods and prints, matches, cigars, marble, and lumber, including boards, planks, and heavy beams. The want of native timber is a great drawback to the prosperity of this country, and that which is im ported is, of course, very expensive. The fancy goods come chiefly from Austria and Germany ; hardware, boots, and shoes, from England and France. Within a few years past, Russia has sent considerable flour to Syria. In cotton goods and prints, the last of which must be of the most gaudy and flaming colors to please the Oriental taste, Manchester has taken the lead of aU other cities in supplying this market; but the business being known to be profitable was soon overdone, and there is now a depression.

Great quantities of rice are brought to this country, for the natives are very7 fond of it. Sugar comes principaUy from Egypt and France. But few cigars are imported, for the natives do not use them, partly because they are too expensive, and partly because they are too strong, and contain more tobacco than a Syrian or an Arab wishes to smoke at once. Furthermore, foreigners soon give up the practice of smoking cigars, and adopt instead the cigarette, which, together with the nargileh for leisure hours, takes the place of the pipes and cigars of the West ern world. Considerable produce of various kinds is also shipped yearly from this port, and among the articles are dried apricots, raisins and nuts, wine and ohve oU, wheat, barley, sesame and beans, madder root and other sub stances that are used for dyeing materials, rags, skins, wool, bitumen, sponges, raw cotton, silk, and tobacco.

Formerly a great many horses, cattle, and sheep were shipped from Syria to Egypt and elsewhere, and from this source the country derived a very important income. But for some reason strict orders have been issued from Constantinople prohibiting the export of cattle and horses, and this business has nearly ceased. The bitumen comes from the mines at Hasbeiya, near the most northern source of the Jordan. It is found in a very pure state, is worth about one hundred and thirty doUars a ton, and PREP AR A TIONS. 7 is used principally by the Continental varnish makers. A large part of the silk is shipped to France; the value of that sent in 1872 amounting to £500,000. Since the Suez Canal was opened, the silk industiy of Syria has been almost ruined. The raw article can be produced much cheaper in the far East, where also the crop is more certain, and the present means of rapid transit enable the growers and shippers there to supply quickly the European market, so that the producers here find it impossible to hold their own with such odds against them, and many have in consequence been driven to poverty and real distress.

One of the important industries of Syria is the sponge fisheries, of which the average value of the yearly pro duction is from $100,000 to $125,000. In 1872, nearly $60,000 worth were shipped from Beirut alone. At present not a great deal of cotton is produced, and the Govern ment has made tobacco a contraband article, so that the production of this staple has weU-nigh ceased. In ancient Hebrew times, cotton was raised and manufactured in Syria, and in the Middle Ages the cotton fabrics of this country were widely celebrated; but its production has faUen almost to nothing in recent years, chiefly owing to the fact that the Government neither aids nor encourages any industry that can possibly be made a source of wealth to the impoverished and wretched inhabitants. Among the historical notices of this city, connected chiefly with its commercial character, we find Pliny (died A. D. 79) praising the sweetness of the Beirut grapes, and declaring that its native wine was, with that of Tripoh, Tyre, and Byblos, the best in Syria.

Ammianus Marcelhnus (fourth century) describes Beirut, Tyre, and Sidon as the most important cities of Phœnicia. Procopius (died A. D. 565) speaks of its extensive silk trade and manufactories whence the whole Roman empire was supplied with the most elegant and costly fabrics of this kind. In the time of Justinian its only rival in this trade was the city of Tyre. Agathios (sixth century) speaks of Beirut, at the period previous to the great earthquake in A. D. 529, as one of the most beautiful cities of the Phœnician coast, adorned with elegant palaces and presenting the appear ance of a Roman city of wealth and splendor. Amid the luxury and the powerful heathen influence which prevailed here at that time, Christianity also had a foothold, and its teachers and churches existed side by side with Roman schools and Pagan temples.

It was here that Constantine, in 325, issued his law prohibiting gladiatorial combats. We have had a number of interviews with the Advisory Committee, composed, besides Dr. Post already mentioned, of Rev. Wm. M. Thomson, D. D., Rev. Henry H. Jessup, D. D., and C. V. A. Van Dyck, M. D., D. D., and, with their cooperation, our preparations are nearly complete. It is proposed by the committee that we go on Wednesday, August 25, to 'Abeih, a viUage in the mountains, five hours south of Beirut, pitch our camp there, and see if everything is in order. 'Abeih, Syria, Wednesday, September 1, 1875. As every member of the party has been more or less indisposed, our departure for our field of labor has been delayed beyond our expectations. But aU our forces are now on hand and in readiness, and we propose to start in the morning.

Since coming here I have spent parts of two days in planning with Dr. Thomson about our route. We have decided to camp to-morrow night at Kefr Nebrakh ; go thence to Jubb Jenin, and on our way take photographs PREPARATIONS. 9 of the recently discovered grove of cedars above Baruk; on Saturday to go past and photograph the temple at Thelthatha, and spend Sunday at Rasheij __ ; to visit Rukhleh and some of the temples about the base of Mount Hermon; also the summit of Hermon, and go thence by way of Mejdel esh Shems to Banias. Thence visit aud photograph the castle, the grove of Hazuri, the lake Phiala, and go on by way of S'as'a to the north end of the Lejah. The country east of the Jordan which it is proposed to survey embraces 6000 square mdes, being about the size of that contemplated in the Enghsh survey of Western Palestine.

The region assigned to us is a vast table-land, averaging about 2500 feet above the level of the Mediterranean, on which there is but a single group of hdls, caUed the Hauran Mountains. It is said to be fuU of ruins which are of great historical interest. Besides the four members of the exploring party, Prof. E. R. Lewis, M. D., of the Syrian Protestant CoUege in Beirut, and Mr. Henry L. Van Dyck, are to accompany us; we have also Mr. T. R. Dumas, of Beirut, as our photographer. We have twenty-three baggage animals and nine horses, eight muleteers, six servants, — including two cooks and a table boy, — and two native assistants and interpreters from the coUege just mentioned. The Americans whom we have met since coming here have received us most cordiaUy and rendered us aU the assistance in their power.

To some of them I am person aUy indebted for many kind attentions. They aU express themselves as deeply interested in the work which the American Society has undertaken, but seem to regret that we should be sent out to our field whUe the heat is so oppressive.

Chapter II

Among the Cities of Bashan. Route followed. S'as'a. Beautiful camping-ground. Extinct crater. The Lejah, the ancient "Argob." Vast bed of lava. Frfcaks of the cooling lava. Great caves, the lurking-places of robbers. Testimony of Strabo and Josephus. The Hauran Mountains, once a region full of active volcanoes. Strange appearance of the Lejah. Musmieh, the Phaena of the Greeks. Fine temple. Inscriptions. Palace of the Governor. Public hotel. Camp of the Sixteenth Legion. Our camping-place. Burak. An episcopal city. Old foundations. Aqueduct and water supply. WE foUowed pretty nearly the plan of our route, which, as I have mentioned, was arranged with Dr. Thomson, and reached the border of the Trachonitis on Wednesday, September 15, 1875. S'as'a appears to occupy the mouth of an extinct crater, and the khan belonging to the town is of great size.

Our camp was on the bank of the Jennani, or rather between two branches of that stream, where was a patch of inviting greensward, an unusual sight in this parched land. A flock of fine-looking geese shared with us one end of this smaU island, but they did not disturb our slumbers. In order to confine my material within the compass of a single volume, I must omit for the most part my journal AMONG THE CITIES OF BASHAN. 11 of our work and travels for two months from the date last mentioned, and select only such matters as appear to me to be of chief importance, and which I trust wUl prove of general interest. There are many points about the Lejah from which one can overlook its entire surface. The views from the roof of the temple at Musmieh, and from the buddings at Khubab some distance to the south, are particularly fine.

It would be difficult to mention a spot in civilized lands which could be compared to this ancient region in regard to its wild and savage aspect. When one reads of '• Argob," or the " region of Argob,'' in Deut. hi., and elsewhere, the name and phrase have little signifi cance ; but when one is actuaUy on the ground, and, from the waUs of the temple at Musmieh, looks south-east over the very district referred to, or, from some point in Jebel Hauran, looks north over this great sea of lava, one realizes that the Hebrew words are expressive to a degree that one had never before imagined. The lava bed proper embraces about three hundred and fifty square miles, and its average height above the sur rounding plain is perhaps twenty feet. The bed in its out line or edge is far from being regular, but sends out at a multitude of points black promontories of rock into the surrounding plain.