Travels in Chile and La Plata, etc

Preface

. The following work is the result of observations made on several journeys in La Plata and Chile, and during a long residence in the latter country. The Author having entered into a contract with the go vernment of Buenos Ayres to erect in that city the machinery for a national mint, made a voyage to England in furtherance of this object. During his passage he employed most of his time in arranging his notes relative to the trade, manufactures, resources, and government of Chile, with a view to publication. On his arrival in England, in June, 1825, he com pared these notes with the subject matter of his letters and journals, written as the events occurred, and forwarded to London ; these supplied him with still more extensive materials for the accomplish ment of his purpose. On showing these to several literary friends, he was encouraged to extend his oba2

PREFACE.

. servations to the form under which they now appear ; he was the more induced to listen to these suggestions on finding, upon his return to England, the numerous misconceptions which were enter tained, and the incorrect accounts which had been published relative to these countries. The author having in a short space of time com pleted the machinery before alluded to, is now obliged to return to Buenos Ayres in pursuance of his contract, and to commit his manuscript to the hands of the publisher without its having undergone the revision he had intended. He may, therefore, with some reason, claim the in dulgence of the reader, for such inaccuracies and de fects of style and arrangement as he is conscious pervades it. He has diligently devoted all the time he could spare to the prosecution of this object, both in the collection of matter, and in the laborious preparation of the numerous maps, plans, and drawings, given in these volumes.

For the convenience of folding, the maps have been reduced to their present small size' by the en graver. The map of the portion of Chile between Valparaiso and Mendoza is made from actual survey by the author ; the other large map is nearly alto-

PREFACE.

. V gether original, and prepared principally from his own observations, assisted by information from per sons in the country qualified to afford it. The general map of Chile contains merely the names of places, leaving out all traces of the mountainous ra mifications, which, upon so small a scale, would have caused confusion, and have made the map unintelli gible. The plates are all made from drawings prepared by the author ; — they are ably lithographed by Mr. Tell Baynes and Mr. E. T. Parris, and it is hoped will illustrate the subjects they are intended to explain. It was the intention of the Author to have given some account of the natural history of Chile, but he found it impossible from want of time. In the bo tanical department, he made during his residence in Chile, Buenos Ayres, and Mendoza, upwards of two hundred drawings, including several novel genera ; the remainder being nearly all new species of known genera, illustrated by descriptions, and he has materials for nearly an equal number of others.

For the satisfaction of such of his readers as feel an interest in these pursuits he has added in the Ap pendix a list of the plants described in his drawings. In the ornithological department there is also added VI

PREFACE.

. in the Appendix a list ofthe drawings and descrip* tions he has prepared of the passeres. These several drawings are intended for subsequent publication as his other avocations may permit. London, December 20, 1825. LIST OF THE VIEWS, PLANS, MAPS, &c With Directions fat placing them. VOL. I. Page 1. Mode of conducting Traffic by Carts between Mendoza and Buenos Ayres 243 2. Method of throwing the Lasso ..._,__..•,. ,, ... , , . ~\ fiR Method of throwing the Bolas , . . .............. J 3. Huts at Villa Vicentio in the Cordillera 169 4. Cerro de los Penitentes, a remarkable castellated Formation in the Cordillera 306 5. Iiicas' Bridge, and hot mineral Springs in the Cordillera 308 6. Salto del Soldado, and the Alto del Puente in the Cordillera 331 7. Puente de Cimbria, or Indian Lasso Hangin g Bridge, at Santa Rosa, in Chile 334 8.

Plan of the City of Santiago, the Capital of Chile 426 9. Plaza, or great Square of Santiago, with different costumes 426 10. Harbour and Town of Valparaiso, with the Town of the Almendral 440 11. Harbour of Valdivia, with the Fortifications 486 VOL. II. 12. Diversions observed among the Peasantry of Chile on the Festival of Corpus Christi 218 13. Manufacture of Utensils of Copper 293 14. Wine making -\ Boiling Cocido > 297 Distilling ' 15. Construction of a Rancho \ Ploughing j- 227 Plough ' LIST OF THE PLATES, &C Page 1 6. Mode of using the Balsa k Plan of the Balsa V 327 Carts used in Chile ' 17. Flour Mill used in Chile --. Trapiche, or Water Mill used in Chile for grinding I Ores of Gold and Silver s / Ingenio, or Machine for pounding Ores ■*' 18. Furnace used in Smelting of Copper T Cancha de beneficiar, or Mode of Amalgamation of I Gold and Silver V 391 Trapiche, or Mill used at the Lavaderos, or Gold j Washings J 19.

Furnaces for the Reduction of Gold and Silver 401 By an error of the lithographer in plate 1 8, the Flour Mill is called a Trapiche, and the Trapiche a Flour Mill. MAPS. Map of the country between the Rio de la Plata and the Pacific Ocean, to face the title-page, Vol. I. Map of Chile, including Indian Chile Vol. I. 400 Map of a portion of Chile with the intermediate mountain ranges and passes over the Cordillera, between Valparaiso -and Mendoza, to face the title-page, Vol. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I. London To Buenos Ayres, And Thence To Barranquitos

Page Project for setting up Copper Mills in Chile. — Leave England. — Arrive at Buenos Ayres. — Journey from Buenos Ayres to Barranquitos, on the Road to Mendoza across the Pampa Country 1

Chapter II. Barranquitos To Mendoza

From Barranquitos, through San Luis de la Punta, by the Post-road to Mendoza. — Tables of Posts — I. Buenos Ayres to Mendoza by the Pampas. — II. Buenos Ayres to Cordova. — III. Buenos Ayres to Santa Fe , 83

Chapter III. Mendoza To Villa Vicencio

Mendoza and its Neighbourhood described. — Climate- Diseases. — Vineyards and Wines. — Leave Mendoza.—Jour ney to Villa Vicencio. — Disaster there. — Consequences. — Place described. — State of the Weather.— Return to Mendoza 147

Chapter IV. Areco To Barranquitos

Areco to Barranquitos by the Post Road. — Montoneros. — Indians.— Native Creoles.— Face of the Country.— Locusts. — Harvest-home 19* CONTENTS. X

Chapter V. Observations On The Country Between Buenos Ayres And Mendoza

Page Neighbourhood of Mendoza described. — People.— Education. — Slaves.— Provisions. — Cattle."— Pampas.--*-Dif_cult to Colonize. — Want of Trees. — San Juan. — Proposal for a Co lony there. — Caravans. — Province of Cordova. — Cordova once a Seat of Learning. — Its former and present State. — Geology. — Mountain Ranges. — Mines of San Juan. — Caro linas and Famatima. — Pampa Indians. — Their Manners, Cnstoms, Dress, Superstitions. —Population of the Provinces of the La Plata. — Conduct of the Spanish Government. — Its Conseqneuces 223

Chapter VI. Mendoza To Santiago

Journey over the great Chain of the Andes by the Pass of Uspallata, including Observations geological, botanical, and descriptive of this mountainous Country. — Hot Springs of Villa Vicencio.— The Paramillo. — Plains of Uspallata.—Val* ley of the Sonda. — River of San Juan. — Sonda Winds.— Showers of Sand. — Volcanic Formations.*— -Mines of San Pedro. — River of Mendoza. — Lasso Bridge. — Mountain Passes described. — Tambillitos. — Casas de los Indios. — Para millo de Juan Pobre. — Peak of T&pungato. — Casuchas. — Guanaco Hunting. — Castle-formed Mountains. — Incas' Bridge. — Hot Springs. — Bezoar Stones 268

Chapter VII. Mendoza To Santiago

Paramillo de las Cuevas. — The Cumbre, or highest Pass of the Andes. — Attenuation of the Atmosphere Other Passes. — Red and green Snow.— Valley of Calavera. The Portillo. — Springs.— Salto del Soldado. — River Colorado and Bridge. — Bridge of Viscacha. — Valley of Aconcagua. — Town of Santa Rosa. — Lasso Bridge. — Chacabuco. — Santiago. — Hints to Travellers. — Itinerary. — Mendoza to Santiago. Barometrical Tables — Other Passes over the Cordillera. CONTENTS. XI Pass of Dehusa.— Of los Patos— Of the Portillo— Qf Planchem— Of Antuco.— Winter Travelling ,, . , „ , ., ., . , , ; ... , 313

Chapter VIII. Santiago To Valparaiso

Road from Santiago to Valparaiso by Casa Blanca.—Post house of Podaguel,— Cuesta and Post-house of Prado.— Gold Mines of Curicabi. — Cuesta of Zapita— Casa Blanca Las Tablas. — View of Valparaiso — Road from Santiago to Valpa raiso by the Dormida. — Polpayco Lime Works.— Tiltil. — Cuesta Dormida. — Limache.— Concon. — Valparaiso Table of Distances between Santiago and Valparaiso 360

Chapter IX. Chile Described

Limits. — Proportion of cultivatable Land. — Climate. — Earthquakes. — Great Earthquake in 1822. — Diseases 378

Chapter X. Chile Described

Grand Divisions. — Jurisdictions. — First, or Northern Jurisdiction, containing the Provinces of — I. Copiapo. — II. Coquimbo. — Copper Mines in these Provinces 400

CHAPTER XL CHILE DESCRIBED.

Second, or middle Jurisdiction, containing the Provinces of — III. Quillota. — IV. Aconcagua. — V. Santiago. — VI. Mellipilli.— VII. Rancagua.— VIII. Colchagua— IX. Maule. — Gold, Silver, and Copper Mines. — City of Santiago.— Port of Valparaiso. — Geological Observations. — Volcanos 410

Chapter XII. Chile Described

. Third, or southern Jurisdiction, containing the Provinces of— X. Chillan. — XI. Itata.— XII. Rere, or Huilquilemu. CONTENTS. Page — XIII. Puchacal. — Fertility of these Provinces. — Bay, Harbour, and City of Concepcion 471

Chapter XIII. Indian Chile

Its Divisions. — City and Harbour of Valdivia. — Capture of Valdivia by Lord Cochrane GLOSSARY OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SPANISH AND INDIAN WORDS USED IN THIS WORK. Adobes, sun-dried bricks. Aguardiente, ardent spirits. Alcalde, justice of the peace. Alemede, public walk. Barbaruria, a species of largegrained wheat. Bayeta, coarse woollen cloth made in Chile. Alfalfa, clover. Bellola, a fine species of larch. Algarroba, the caroba tree. Alojamiento, lodging. Benehuca, winged bug of Mendoza. Araucanos, Indians in the southern parts of Chile. Bodega, shop, shed, in which wine is made, and stored. Arope, syrup from wild berries. Arope de chanar, syrup of the Bolas, balls. Boleta de venta, bill of sale, agreement. fruit of the chana. Arope depiquillin, syrup of berries of lycium bushes. Bombillo, tube through which mate is sipped Arriero, muleteer.

Botica, a large earthen wine jar. Brazero, chaffing-dish. Arroba, a weight equal to twenty-five pounds Spanish. Brea, mineral pitch. Arroba, a measure. Asado, roasted meat. Cabildo, office of justice. Cacique, chief, king. Calesa, an open chaise. Calle, street. Asenlistas, contractors, slave company. Asesor, legal adviser. Camara de apelaciones, court of appeal. Asientos, small pieces of land left in possession of the Indians. Camara de justicia, court of justice. Audiencia, court of justice Avellano, hazel nut. Canada, a broad ditch. Candeal, red-bearded wheat. Cantaro, an earthen jug. Capackos, hide bags used in Baguales, wild horses. Balsa, a float, or raft. Bahos, baths. wine making. GLOSSARY. XIV Fanega, a measure equal to two and a half English bushels. Catita, a species of green parrot.

Cebo, tallow. Chacara, garden. Charqui, dried beef. Faxa, woollen sash. Chicha, fermented liquor prepared by the Indians. Frijolcs, French beans. Frasco, a measure containing about two-thirds of a quart. Cigarillo, or Cigarro en Iioja, a small cigar. Grano, grain. Grassa, grease. Coca, a leaf of the erythrosilum chewed by the Indians. Guanaco, an animal of the deer Cocido, must from grapes. Colina, a sort of cane peculiar to Chile. kind. Habilitado, shop-keeper. Hacienda, an estate, farm. Haceendado, land-owner, far- Commercianles, merchants, dealers. Contra-ycrro, mark put on cattle when sold. mer. Consulado, commercial court of justice. Intendenle gobernador, chief municipal officer of a province or town. Corral, a sort of pound in which horses are kept. Costal, a hide bag which holds a fanega of corn.

Intendencia gobernador, his court, or office. Juez del partido, constable of the district. Couque, fermented liquor prepared by the Indians. Cuesta, hill. Junta, council, committee, for state purposes. Curague, fermented liquor prepared by the Indians. Lasso, a missile weapon made of hide. TDicsmo, tenth, tithe. Domadores, horse-breaker, Letrado, doctor learned in the law. herdsman. Lugares, reservoirs. Estancia, cattle farm. Estanco, monopoly granted or retained by the government. Machete, a cutlass used by the Indians. Estero, harbour. Macki, Indian soothsayer. Estrado, a low mud bench, generally covered with a carpet. Madrina, mare which leads a troop of mules. Mulul, Indian fortification. GLOSSARY. XV Malon, robbery, surprise, murder. Quintal, IOO pounds Spanish. Marco, Mark, eight ounces.

Matanza, slaughtering place. Matesito, calabash in which Rancho, a hut. Reboso, a triangular shawl. Resguatero, custom-house offiyerba is infused. cers. Matriz, principal church. Rio, river. Misa de Gracias, thanksgiving. Monte, a game played with Samochado. See Chicha. Sillon, woman's saddle. cards. Onza, ounce. Teniente, lieutenant. Otorgar, to grant, to accede to. Terremotos, violent shocks of earthquakes. Palangana, a deep silver dish. Tinajas, large earthen jars used in making wine. Palos, stripes with a cane. Pantano, M— l.._mp. Tolderias, Indian encampments. Para hacer saber, to make known. Toqui, general-in-chief of the Indians. Patio, court-yard. Trapiche, water-mill. Pay la, a large copper pan. Travesia, desert. Peleucones, old royalists. Tremblores, slight shocks of earthquakes.

Pelaca, a box made of hide. Piara, a troop of eight mules. Tribunal de Cuentas, account and audit office. Plaza, square. Polucra, green vitriol. Poricho, a sort of cloak. Trigo bianco, white wheat. Prorrata, impressment of mules and horses. Vara, Spanish yard. Visto bueno, approval. Pueblo, village. Uingues, a race of Indians resembling Europeans. Puente, bridge. Pulperia, liquor-shop. Pulpero, keeper of a pulperia. Puna, the sensation felt on ascending high mountains. Ulmen, general of Indians. Ulpa, a mixture of barley meal and water. Yerba, herb of Paraguay. Quadra, land-measure. Quartet, soldier's quarters, bar- Zandia, water-melon. racks. Quebrada, ravine, valley.

Chapter I. London To Buenos Ayres, And Thence To Barranquitos

Project for setting up Copper Mills in Chile Leave England. — Arrive at Buenos Ayres. — Journey from Buenos Ayres to Barranquitos, on the road to Mendoza, across the Pampa country. Offers having been made to me in the year 1818 to undertake an enterprise of some magnitude in Chile, I embarked with a friend a very considerable capital in the speculation. It was our intention to erect a very extensive train of machinery in that country for refining, rolling, and manufacturing copper into sheathing. The inducements were powerful and alluring. Copper of fine quality was said to be procured in abundance from the mines of Chile, and could be purchased for about half the price it bore in the English markets. Nearly all the copper raised in the country was exported in its crude state to the East Indies, its islands, and China, in return for manufactured goods ; and as all VOL. I. b the copper sheathing consumed in the extensive ship building there carried on was sent from England, the inference was irresistible, that, upon the given data, an immense fortune might rapidly be made in the proposed speculation : — especially as coal might, it was said, be procured for nothing in Chile, and labour was not one-fourth of the cost it bore in England ; added to this, the demand for sheet copper along the coasts of the Pacific was also said to be very great, particularly in the sugar manufactories of Peru.

These tales were magnified by the South American deputies then in London ; and from the two Chile ambassadors I received strong assurances that the government would afford every facility, protection, and assistance, to an enterprise of such vast importance to that infant country. Under these flattering prospects, I dispatched for Chile, in different vessels, about one hundred tons' weight of machinery, and embarked with my wife in a merchant brig, called the Little Sally, with about 70 tons of machinery, implements, and baggage ; taking with me several very skilful workmen, engineers, millwrights, and refiners. A surgeon of considerable professional merit, Mr. Thomas Leighton, who was engaged in the Chileno naval service, offered to accompany us, an offer I rejoiced at ; and it will be seen in the sequel what essen tial service this meritorious gentleman extended towards us in the difficulties we encountered on our journey ; services which I shall ever remember with the deepest gratitude.

We left the Downs on the 26th January, 1819, having been previously detained there above three weeks, by contrary winds and violent gales; after a very favourable passage of 51 days, we made Cape Saint Mary, at the entrance of the river Plate, and after two days' careful pilotage in ascending this shoally river, we anchored on the evening of 22d March, in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. None but very small vessels drawing little water can enter the inner roads ; the outer roads, where we were obliged to anchor, are nine miles from the town. Next morning we landed, two hours being occupied in rowing from the vessel to the beach ; our impressions upon landing were in sad discordance with the notions of grandeur which we had been led to form from the reports of those who had visited this city, as well as from books of travels respecting the countiy.

The water close to the shore runs so very shoal, that our small boat could not approach nearer than 50 yards from the beach : a number of earts being in attend ance to take us from the boat, we entered one of them: this vehicle was like nothing we had seen before — it was of the rudest construction — the bottom was a square frame of wood, with some sticks laid across it — it was open before and behind ; the two sides about breast high were made of rough sticks, bound together with strips of hide ; the wheels were of very large diameters, and of very clumsy construction, the axletree being of wood ; there was not, in fact, a piece of iron in the whole structure ; it was drawn by two horses abreast, one of them mounted by an Indian looking rider, of strange appearance, and still stranger costume ; a loose hide was in the bottom of the cart, on which we stood, there being no seat : the sight of this first specimen B of South American handicraft was ominous, and depressing.

We were landed at a kind of jetty, called the Mole, formed of rough blocks of mica slate ; the houses fronting the beach I mistook for gaols, as they had no glass sashes, and the open win dows were defended by iron gratings ; but on entering the town, I found all the houses constructed in the same manner, mostly of one ground floor; their deserted appearance, and shabby exterior, bore more the semblance of gaols than the habitations of an industrious, civilized, and free people. As it is my intention at some future period to describe Buenos Ayres in detail — its government, statistics, and resources, I shall not now enter into any further particulars respecting the city, but proceed to describe the preparations for my journey across the country of La Plata to Chile. We went to the English hotel, at that time kept by a Mrs. Hunt, from whom we received great civility and attention ; but the want of accommodation induced us to look out for better quarters, and I encountered much difficulty in procuring a lodging.

We entered the houses of a great many families, whom we were told were likely to receive lodgers, they all expressed great readiness to accommodate us, until they learned that a lady was of the party, when they at once refused to receive us ; at length we found a family who agreed to accommodate us during our proposed short stay in Buenos Ayres. The head of this family was Don Jose Maria Cal deron ; he was an old Spaniard, whose fortunes had been ruined by the events of the revolution ; he was about 60 years of age, and held the situation of vista (or searcher) at the Custom House ; his wife was an agreeable, lively woman, a sister of General Belgrano, who then commanded the national patriot forces in Upper Peru ; the family consisted of eight children — two sons established in business in Mendoza — another in Spain — one in the army with Bel grano — another a clerk in the Secretary of State's office — a promising lad educating in the college and two daughters : the amount they demanded for the accommodation of myself and my wife was extremely moderate, seventeen dollars for our stay (three guineas and a half).

I shall give an account of our first day's entertainment as a sample of the accommodation we received. At dinner, we were placed side by side, at the top of the family table, the usual seat of guests, according to the Spanish custom. Three black female slaves waited at table : we had about twenty dishes, of different sorts, one brought on as soon as another was removed ; we had bread and vermicelli soup, different kinds of stews, and bouillis of beef, roast veal, salads of lettuce, and dishes of different vegetables, dressed in oil. Our hosts wished to press upon us plates served from every dish in succession — they were extremely solicitous to make us eat more than we wished. After dinner one of the slaves said a long unintelligible grace ; upon the conclusion of which all the family crossed themselves upon their foreheads, mouths, and breasts : the cloth was not removed, but was kept for the dessert, which consisted of a profusion of ripe figs, peaches, nectarines, apples, pears, and oranges ; nothing but water was drunk at dinner, or afterwards ; a bason and towel were brought, in which all the company washed their hands in the same water, it being first presented to us : they then rose from the table, and retired to their siesta, or afternoon's sleep.

These kind people displayed much anxiety to accommodate their meals to our taste, and provided for us at morning and evening tea and coffee, which they never were in the habit of taking themselves : their principal meal was supper, of which they par took at midnight. The artisans brought out by me were boarded and lodged at a tavern. My first care was to arrange for the transhipment of my machinery to Chile, and the preparation for our journey. From all persons, both natives and English, I heard dreadful accounts of the state of the country : the Montonero, as the roving murderous brigands of Artigas, a well-known fac tious partisan, were called, over-ran the country between Buenos Ayres and Chile, so as nearly to intercept all communication ; and our determination to cross the country was looked upon as a desperate attempt scarcely to be accomplished ; but in the several accounts related to me I could not trace any sufficient evidence to induce me to lay aside my in tention.

The principal circumstance which produced this determination was the pregnancy of my wife : by preferring the land journey to the sea voyage, we expected we should reach Chile before the period of her accouchement. Having been invited . to a conference with the Secretary of State, I con sulted with him respecting my intended journey. He assured me that little danger was to be appre hended from the Montonero, as they had been driven by the troops of Buenos Ayres to the opposite banks of the Parana into the province of Entre Rios ; the interior of the country, he said, was very unsettled, and he doubted much that we could proceed along the regular post-road, but he thought we might venture across the Pampas by a more southern route. After weighing circumstances seriously, we finally resolved upon the land journey.

I had brought with me from England a caravan for the purpose of crossing the country, but in this respect fresh difficulties were started : it was said that the road was cut into deep ruts ; and as the width between the wfieels of the carriages of the country was considerably greater than that of our English vehicles, I was assured that we should travel in the caravan with great difficulty. As all agreed in this respect, and as I did not wish to encounter the risk of stoppage upon the road, I judged it expedient to purchase a carriage at Buenos Ayres, which I was told could easily be disposed of in Mendoza. For this I paid 500 dollars, a sum, at the rate of exchange at that time, equivalent to 112.. 10_. I hired four native drivers for the journey, one for each horse intended to draw the coach.

They were men accustomed to travel the road, and were acquainted with all the different routes : they were paid according to their experience, one at 50 dollars, another at 40, the third at 30, and the fourth at 25 dollars for the journey, which was computed at 900 miles. Having, at several interviews with the Secretary of State, made him fully acquainted with the object of my journey to Chile, he suggested that greater ad vantages would accrue to me by settling in the La Plata country, and pointed out Cordova as an admirable scite for the erection of my extensive machinery, dwelling with great eulogium upon the richness of the copper mines there ; but the object of his greatest anxiety was the obtaining a portion of the coining machinery then on its passage from England to Chile, which I intended to offer for the use of the Chilian Government, and proffered every advan tage I might wish for that it was in the power of the Government to grant, provided I could arrange my affairs so as to settle in Buenos Ayres in preference to Chile.

This I assured him was now out of the question, as my measures had been already prospec tively taken, and could not be cancelled. He how ever expressed his hope that at some future time some arrangement might be made, with this view ; he offered his best wishes for the success of my enterprize, granted an unsolicited order for the tranship ment of the machinery I had brought with me free of the usual transit duties, gave me a passport across the country for myself and retinue, without exacting the usual heavy stamp duty, and begged I would apply to him for any assistance it was in his power to grant. I was extremely gratified with the attentions he showed me, as a satisfactory illustration of that good disposition on the part of the South American Governments in favour of British enterprize which I had been led to expect I should assuredly meet with.

Having completed the arrangements for the tran shipment of my machinery, and taken the necessary measures respecting the coach, I prepared for my departure. Horses cannot be procured for such a journey at the several post-houses along the road but by a licence from the post-office at Buenos Ayres, for which certain charges are made. One of these charges is a tenth of the whole sum fixed by law as the price of horse-hire for the whole journey, called la decima parte : another of the charges, called la parte, is an arbitrary charge. The duties exacted at the post-office were as follows : — Dollars. Reals. La parte. 12 1 La decima parte, one-tenth part of 293 dollars, 2 reals, the estimated charge of post-hire of eight horses to Mendoza. . 29 2 41 3 equal to nine pounds six shillings sterling.

The charge allowed to be levied by the post-mas ters had been, from long established usage, fixed at the following rate for each carriage-horse, one real, 6d. per league on the road from Buenos Ayres to Mendoza ; for each saddle-horse and each pack horse half a real per league to San Luis, a distance of 218 leagues, and one real per league thence to Mendoza, a distance of 82 leagues. All the arrange ment being completed, our departure was fixed for the 5th April. Our whole set-out would in most other countries have appeared ludicrous. Our luggage was packed before and behind the body of the coach, and covered with hides, as was also the top of the coach. The fellies of the wheel were lashed with strips of wetted hide, which as they dried served by their contraction to strengthen them. Other strips of hide were carried from the naves to the fellies, and twisted by means of pieces of wood, the ends of which rested on the spokes, and further strengthened the crazy wheels.

There was a strong pole to the coach, which was to be drawn by four horses, harnessed, if harness it could be called, by a rope made of slips of hide fastened to the girths of the horses, for in this country a horse never draws by a collar. The leaders were in like manner harnessed to a clumsy piece of wood fastened to the end of the pole. Each horse had its rider ; every thing was prepared on the evening of the 5th April, 1819, and the horses were brought out; but, as is usual in this country, so many delays occurred as to make it necessary to defer our departure till the next morning. April 6. — About six o'clock we again made an effort to depart ; our stock of provisions, consisting of bread, biscuit, tea, sugar, &c. were stowed under the seats of the coach, and several small boxes were taken into the vehicle.