Narrative of a religious journey in the East in 1850 and 1851

Chapter I

Troubles of an Author. — Farewell to Home. — My Colleague. — French Protestantism. — The Reformed Church. — The Eastern Church. — Memorial to the Pope. — Bossuet's Plan. — Dangers of Delay. — Errors of Reason. — The Anglican Converts. — Weakness of Eastern Church. — Difficulties of Reconciliation. — ■ Preparations for the Journey. — My Fellow-travellers

Chapter II

Berlin. — The Egyptian Museum. — The Anglican Movement. — Breslau. — Silesia. — Fortifications of Vienna. — Laybach. — Glognitz — Legitimacy and Religion. — The Count de Chambord. — Outskirts of Enrope. — Illyria and Carniola. — First View of the Mediterranean. — The Gulf of Muia. — The old Roman Blood. — The Archduchess Sophia. — Arrival at Corfu

Chapter III

Corfu; its Ramparts. — The Governor's Palace. — A Night on Deck. — Ocupations on Board. — Botanical Pleasures. — Island of Sapienza. — Syra. — Our Dragoman. — The Archipelago. — Historical Associations. — First View of Athens. — A Greek Khan. — Temple of Theseus.— Hotel d' Orient.— The Propylæa.— The Parthenon VI CONTENTS. Paos

Chapter IV

Early Churches. — Gothic Cathedrals. — Christian Art. — Allegorical Decorations. — The Metopes. — Marbles of Greece. — Microscopic Vegetation. — The Sacred Road. — The Athenian Mountains. — Church of Daphni. — Early Architecture. — Dukes of Athens. — ■ The Marquess of Montserrat. — Athens by Moonlight. —The Catholics of Athens.— Military Fete.— Patriotism of the Clergy . . . . . . . . 73

Chapter V

The Ilissus.^Convent of Penteli. — Marbles of Paros. — The Cephisus. — Our Guide Antonio. — Gulf of Salamis. — Eleusis. — Pass of Kaki Skala. — Isthmus of Corinth. — The Isthmian Games. — Fountain of Venus. — Acro-Corinthus. — Ruins of Mycenæ. — Tomb of Atreus. — The Gate of Lions. — Cyclopean Walls. — Tirynthus. — Nauplia. — First Greek Parliament. — Marshes of Lerna . . . . . . . . 95

Chapter VI

Saranta-Potamos. — Khan of Kravata. — Mount Taygetus. — The River Eurotas. — Tomb of Leonidas. — Sparta. — Habits of the Greeks. — Mistra. — A Greek Election. — Valley of the Eurotas. — Encampment of Reapers. — Return to Lontari. — The Greek Services. — Plan of the Churches. — Singular Bridge. — Mount Ithome. — Messene. — Fountain of Clepsydra. — Temple of Jupiter . . . . . . . . . . . . 122

Chapter VII

Ascent of Ithome. — The Recluse's Dwelling. — Dangerous Descent. — Fountain of Mandra. — Dangerous Ford. — Apollo the Epicurean. — A Country Priest and his Household. — Valley of the Alpheus. — Castle of Lala. — Greek Agriculture. — The Fig and Olive. —The Native Plough.— Distillation of Raki.— Tripotamo. — Temple of Æscnlapius. — Convent of St. Laura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CONTENTS. VII 228

Chapter VIII

Page Kalavrita. — Megaspilon. — Monachism in the East. — Ignorance of the Monks. — Monastic Prejudices. — Decay of the Monks' influence. — Fertility of the Valley.— Turkish Habits.— Want of Bridges.— Gulf of Lepanto. — "Le Prophete Elie." — A Storm in the Gulf. — Our Alarm. — Loutraki. — Salamis and Ægina. Clerical Influence. — Necessity of Union. — State of the Greek Church 173

Chapter IX

The Old and New Cathedrals at Athens. — Greek Religious Art. — The Basilica. — The Chancel Veil. — Gothic Architecture. — Inductive Ornament. — Picture Worship. — Absence of Images. — Diptychs. — Figures of the Virgin. — Form of the Churches. — The Royal Palace and its Gardens. — National Habits. — The Greek Races. — We are Robbed . . . . 202

Chapter X

The Priest's Benediction. — The Bishop of Syra* — The Abbe Marinelli. — Decline of Catholicism. — The Clergy of Naxia. — Catholics of Greece. — Want of Literature. — Absence of Schools. — Greek Fanaticism. — The proposed Council. — Necessity of Action. — We reach Asia. — The Oriental Race. — The Bridge of Caravans. — The River Meles. — Hideous Black . . CHAPTEE XI. The Dardanelles — The Bosphorus. — Splendid Prospect. — Constantinople. — The Muezzin. — Galata. — The Archbishop of Pera and his Clergy. — The Armenians. The Patriarch Salviani. — Eather Ventura. — The Lazarists. — Revolt of Aleppo. — Decay of Turkey. — St. Sophia. — Present State of the Turks . . . . . . 254

Chapter XII

The Armenians. — Mons. Tchamourdjan. — Council of Florence. — The Procession of the Son. — Catholic CONTENTS. VIII Page 277 Doctrine. — The Armenian College. — Scutari. — The Bosphorus.— The Caiques.— The Greek Patriarch- Intriguing Spirit. — Theological Studies. — Catholic Priests. — Religious Dissensions. — Visit to St. Sophia. The Great Porch. — Porphyry Columns. — Ancient Mosaics

Chapter XIII

Byzantine Art. — Language of Signs. — Mahomedan Taste. — The Lazarist Fathers. — Eastern Families. — Rhodes.— The Knights of St. John.— The Holy Land. — Beyrout. — Curious Mosaic. — Our ComDanions. — Distant View of Lebanon. — Khan of El Kalda. — Sarcophagi. — Itinerary of Jerusalem. — River Damour.— Sidon.— The Latin Church 307

Chapter XIV

Ain El Qantarah. — Sarepta. — Necropolis of Adloun. — Extent of Cemeteries. — Antique Tower. — The Ancient Leontes. — Arrival of Pilgrims. — Ain El Barouk. — Ruins of Tyre. — Cathedral of Tyre. — Coast Scenery. — Solomon's Pool. — Serious Accident. — Omm -el-'Amia. — Beautiful Ruins. — Phœnician Houses. — El Bassa. — Franciscan Monks. — St. Jean d'Acre. — Recollections of the Past. — To-morrow ! — Anticipated Joys . . . . . . . . . . 334 Appendix.. .. .. .. .. .. .. A RELIGIOUS JOURNEY IN THE EAST.

Chapter I

Troubles of an Author. — Farewell to Home. — My Colleague. — French Protestantism. — The Reformed Church. — The Eastern Church. — Memorial to the Pope. — Bossuet's Plan. — Dangers of Delay. — Errors of Reason. — The Anglican Converts. — Weakness of the Eastern Church. — Difficulties of Reconciliation. — Preparations for the Journey. — My Fellow-travellers. September 21, 1850. — I quitted Montausier with an undefinable feeling of calm sadness, mingled with regrets and hopes. A new phase of my life was commencing. I was about to visit the East, not for the ordinary gratification of travelling, but to realise a plan conceived long years ago— to give myself up to the serious study of one of the most important questions that can be entertained in these times. On my return, should Providence restore me to my country, with the rich reward of my con scientious researches, I shall write the account TROUBLES OF AN AUTHOR. of my travels, and consequently bring myself before the notice of the religious world, although I may thereby expose myself to injustice or hatred ; and I shall renounce for ever this -obscure existence, full of charm though it be to me, and of which I enjoy the peace all the more now, because I have the better presenti ment of the troubles and vexations which attend every author, when he leaves the beaten track of received ideas and prejudices of his times.

I thought how delightful it would be never to leave my solitude ; to let my life pass away without asking of the world aught that is called fame. If I had only listened to the dictates of my heart, or rather to idleness, I should have bid a final adieu to every hope of literary renown. To live to God, to nature, and to myself ; to temper my solitude with the sweet affections of my family, and with the strong sympathies of friendship, would constitute all my happiness in this short-lived existence. Aspirations after God — the great Christian idea on which our salvation is based, would be far more easy in my hermitage than in the midst of the turmoil of the world. I only accept this last condition of Use because it is imposed upon me by Provi dence ; we must learn to bend ourselves to its duties, and walk straight in the path which it FAREWELL TO HOME. 3 points out to us, though we may fear its dan gers and fatigues.

Before leaving my little domain, I traversed it with fond affection. Would it be granted to me to revisit it? to fill it with oriental plants, as I had already done with those from the Pyrenees. Should I have the joy of construct ing a second Sepulchre and another Calvary, in remembrance of that Calvary and that Sepul chre where I should have bowed my head and celebrated its wonderful mysteries ? I deserved not such happiness as this at the hand of God. This adieu might be a final one. I gave a parting look at my trellices laden with vines, which seemed to reproach me for leaving them, when they were ripening for me beneath the sun's rays. I bid adieu to each of my pretty greenhouse plants, memorials either of gratitude or friendship ; I watered for the last time my plants from the Pyrenees ; I went to take a last look at the basin, the kitchen-garden, the orchard, and the fountain; I closed the gate behind me ; and after the parting embrace of my family, by whom I am tenderly loved, I set out.

I arrived at Paris on the 23 rd of September, 1850. My kind friend M. de Saulcy, was expecting me. I owe to his high-minded geneb MY COLLEAGUE. rosity my bright pilgrimage to the ancient world. I have known few men with a warmer heart or a nobler soul. I had every advantage to gain from him as a scholar ; he had nothing to hope from me in return, but unbounded gratitude and devotedness. M. de Saulcy had obtained from Government a scientific mission. He was willing to associate me in his labours ; and it was agreed that during his researches in geography and archæ ology, I should make the herbarium of the ex pedition. Thus, each of us would be able on our return to make some offering to our coun try. I acquitted myself of the task assigned me with an interest which had not subsided when we returned to the long - wished - for shores of France, off Marseilles ; and which made me brave the quarantine in the island of Pomegue, as it had given me courage to brave the musket of the Greek on the slopes of Tay getus, and of the Arab on the heights of Carmel.

My journey had only for its object the re searches of science and the charms of a holy pilgrimage. I wished above all things to make it useful to the church, by a conscientious investigation of the religious state of the East. For some years, the great question of the re union of the churches dissenting from Catho- FRENCH PROTESTANTISM. 5 licity, which had been abandoned since the days of Bossuet, Molanus, and Leibnitz, had been to me a subject of careful study. I viewed the religious movement in England as a presage of the restoration of one of the nations which has the most influence upon the world's destinies. I knew that Germany would soon join in the same movement. Long reflection had shown me that the general reconciliation of the Chris tian communions was the legitimate act of reparation, which in our times should wipe out the stain of three centuries of religious hatred and unsuccesfeful struggles.

Whenever Providence has afforded me the opportunity of an interview with the ministers of the Reformed church of France, or with distinguished men of that communion, I have taken advantage of it as a means of informing myself as to the state of feeling existing in that church. Although she forms, from the small number of souls of which she is composed, only a feeble minority, nevertheless, disseminated in the heart of France, and dominant in several cantons of Switzerland, her return to unity would be a magnificent example, which would soon be followed by other communions separated from Rome by less marked differences. These interviews, rare though they have been, have not failed to convince me that the THE REFORMED CHURCH. moment has arrived even for the Reformed churches of France. I discovered that they had long repudiated the fatalist theory of Calvin, on the indefectibility of grace, and a number of other points of peculiar theology which he has developed in his famous book of the "Christian Institutes."

Intelligent men of the Reformed church, with whom I treated upon the possibility of a reunion, never saw insurmountable obstacles to it. They saw with me that time had done its work ; that more than one long century of indifference, in which the spirits of men were lulled by the illusions of philosophy, had extinguished all the ardour of those theological contests regarding grace and free-will, in which our fathers had expended so much bitterness. Divested now of all political character, not mixing itself up with the claim of preponderance of the Euro pean states, and being no longer able to change their equihbrium, the question, reduced to its true character, that is to say, a rehgious discus sion upon rehgious interests, would infallibly ensure a pacific solution, or would be carried forward on each side with all the concessions compatible with the integrity of the doctrines and the imprescriptible rights and authority of the church in matters of faith.

It was easy to discover (and it is not one of CONFLICTING IDEAS. the least interesting lessons derived from similar studies) that the clergy of the Reformed church, who are the most difficult to bring to a system of conciliation, are men of weak and narrow minds, who regard as an established dogma the exclusion from salvation of all without the pale of the Reformed church, and practise themselves the intolerance with which they reproach the Roman Catholics ; whilst others, brought up with the more enlarged ideas of the times, feel to wards the Romish church none of that rancorous antipathy which has for such a length of time prolonged their sad separation. By the same analysis of the human passions, I have found, in the bosom of the Catholic church, a large body of men who would willingly anathematise every attempt at reconciliation with dissenting com munions, unless humbled and vanquished, and extended on the bed of Procrustes, to be shorn and fashioned after the model of the middle ages* by which they would deprive Catholicism of the powers of motion.

Full of hope upon the subject of Protestant ism, which withholds from unity so large a portion of Europe, I was not less sanguine as to the favourable moment for reconciling the orthodox church of the East with the Romish church. This reunion had already been once solemnly proclaimed at the decline of the middle ages, at THE EASTERN CHURCH. a time when religious antipathies were still in all their vigour. In studying the history of the church, it was easy to discover the secret of the disastrous rupture which so speedily followed this reconciliation. I thought that if it was possible to take up, in the nineteenth century, the work of Bossuet for the Reformed church of Europe, it was not more difficult to resume that of the Council of Florence for the Oriental church. My journey with M. de Saulcy, during which we should have occasion to visit Athens, Con stantinople, Smyrna, Damascus, Jerusalem, and Lebanon, would be a favourable opportunity for forming a decided opinion upon this im portant question ; and it would be the more interesting from the fact that, not having any official mission to the patriarchs and bishops of the East, my researches and the development of my ideas and of my plan would not awaken the habitual suspicion of rival churches.

Before setting out, I wished to ask the benediction upon my labours of the common Father of the Faithful. Since his accession to the papacy, Pius IX had entered into a correspondence with the patriarchs of the Greek and Armenian churches. This attempt had failed. I shall explain the reason why the result was so unfortunate. I was convinced that such an important enterprise ought not to be abandoned in consequence of a first MEMORIAL TO THE TOPE. 9 failure, the motives of which it would be easy to discover upon the spot. I addressed from Paris a memorial to his Holiness, short and comprehensive, in which I stated my thoughts, and the objects of my religious researches. Monseigneur the Nuncio Fornari, who was about to be raised to the dignity of a cardinal, granted me an audience, in which he listened to the details of my plan with the kindest cordiality.

He entreated me to devote the journey I had in contemplation to the service of religion, and he promised to present to the Sovereign Pontiff the memorial which I had drawn up. He dwelt much upon the interest felt by the Church of Rome as to the reunion of dissenting communions. He told me that there was no work more deserving of the protection and paternal support of the Pope than that to which I was about to devote my efforts. The memorial expressed that one of the greatest calamities that could befal the church was the separation of a large number of her children; that in all times her voice of lamentation had been heard when a link in her chain of unity had been broken, and the seamless robe of the spouse of Christ had been rent. " The church," I said, " does not rest con tented with regrets and complaints ; her maternal heart has made her seize, with tender eagerness, BOSSUET'S PLAN. every opportunity of bringing back within her bosom the estranged Christian nations.

There are no pages of the church's history more in teresting than those which recal, with minute detail, her efforts and also her advances towards the separate communions, inviting them to ami cable discussions, and to conferences by the aid of councils, in the hope that hght would shine forth in the understandings of the sin cere, and so prepare them for reunion with the mother-church." Without too much detail as to the history of the past, the memorial recalled the joy of the Church when Bohemia renounced the errors which had crept into her bosom ; when the Council of Florence had sealed the union of the Greek church to that of Rome. It said, that in the seventeenth century, after the long strug gles of Protestantism, one of the glories of Bossuet had been to prepare, with the learned men of Germany, a plan for the reunion of the Lutheran and Catholic churches, — a plan which did not then succeed, because too much bit terness still existed, and that Protestantism had not stood the test of time.

Lastly, in our days, Catholicism, depressed by the infidelity of the age, had experienced a happy reaction, when it was stated by the pubhc journals that in England, men distinguished by sound sense had had the NECESSITY OF UNITY. courage to abjure their church, and had come back to the faith of their fathers. It became, therefore, of immense importance to the church no longer to have excluded from the centre of unity a part of the East, all the north of Europe, North America, — more than half the civilized world, — whole nations rendered powerful and distinguished by genius and science, and by their progress in arts and industry. It was apparent, also, that in Europe men's minds had been struck by the numerical weakness of Catho licism, from which they prognosticated its fall ; and people were not afraid to say aloud, and to publish, that, mutilated for several centuries, losing each day from within her own pale a large number of her children, who abandon the faith, and take refuge in a vague deism, that Catholicism would soon disappear, like those ancient creeds which have not survived their temples, from the day when reason had un masked their extravagance and imposture.

" His Holiness Pius IX," said the memorial, " who more than any one in the Catholic world has mourned over this isolation, and deplored the sad tendency of an age which every day departs more and more from the faith, compre hends what happiness it would be for the uni versal church, what a triumph for the doctrines of which she is the sacred depository, what glory DANGERS OF DELAY. for a pontificate of which the commencement has given birth to so many hopes, if the reunion of Christian communion were prepared, if not completed, by its high initiative." In the opinion of some serious minds which give themselves up to this religious question, the hour has come to labour hard at this work of reconciliation. To defer, for only a few years, the attempt, might be seriously to peril its success. The sixteenth century stands forth to attest how fatal to the interest of the church was the delay in assembling the Council of Trent.

When it did meet, it found nothing but ruins. The separation, which it would have been easy to have arrested in time, was completed ; and notwith standing its zeal and the wisdom of its decrees, it left imperfect the task for which the wisest, gravest, and holiest men, had with such earnest ness demanded its convocation. His Holiness, who knows the whole extent of the evils with which the church is afflicted, is perfectly aware that, for more than a centuiy, infidelity, which distinctly denies the restoration of the world by Christianity, has penetrated into all ranks of society. More to be dreaded than heresy, it retains nothing of the Gospel but that sweet and holy morality, which, however, has found favour in its eyes. Unbelief has gone so far, that it has called ERRORS OF REASON. 13 forth against it the zeal of the bishops and ministers of the separated communions, which have preserved the fundamental doctrines of Christianity.

They have loudly declared that the tendency of unaided human reason is to shake off the yoke of faith, and have trembled like ourselves for that Gospel whose divine words they venerate. Providence has called them to unite their efforts to those of the true church, to defend from unbelief what the church defends, and to repudiate what she rejects. This necessity for the union of all the communions separated from Rome to unite with Rome for the safeguard of the great principles of the faith, seems a providential preparation for bringing about the defi nitive reconciliation of the Christian family, which has for so many centuries lived in religious hatred. They comprehend in this day the disastrous consequences of the loss of unity ; and they do not conceal that the reformers of the sixteenth century, in rejecting the authority of the church to replace it by private judgment, have carried into religious communities the principle of certain dissolution.

Less impassioned in these times, free from the hatreds which become fanaticism in religious struggles, they pronounce maledictions against those ardent men who urged on society too far in the sixteentli THE ANGLICAN CONVERTS. century ; they have only painful recollections of them, and unhesitatingly cast upon them the misfortunes which have oppressed the Christian world. The numerous conversions of enlightened men of the Anglican church are facts which need no comment, to prove the tendency of that distinguished and intelligent nation, to retun to the bosom of Catholicism. It is also certain, that in France, when our Catholic priests enter into amicable discussions with the ministers of the Reformed church, those last do not conceal their wish for the re union of the two churches. They acknowledge that Protestantism, torn by the principle of the authority of private judgment, deprived of the strength that all doctrines derive from the principle of unity, has no security but in seeking this principle where it is found, — in that church which has preserved it.

They are also aware that their reunion with Rome would be preferred with that consideration, — with all those delicate precautions which would depi'ive it of all appearance of humiliation ; and that the church, in her language, would in no way wound the feelings of men over whose estrangement she sighs, and whose souls seem most dear to her ; and that further, according to what Bossuet has pro nounced, the church, in everything concerning WEAKNESS OF THE EASTERN CHURCH. 15 discipline, would not constrain the habits and rehgious customs of Christian nations disposed to reunion, provided that upon points of doc trine, and the recognition of the authority of the church, their adhesion was sincere. '-, After these observations upon Protestantism, the memorial continued as follows . — " These are the facts upon which are founded our hopes of the reunion of Christian communions separated from Rome since the sixteenth century.

It therefore follows that an œcu menical council would easily remove the obstacles which have hitherto impeded so important a work ; and would tend to accomplish a reconciliation destined to give so much splendour to the church of Christ. ■ On the other hand, the East, separated for a still longer period, is languishing from day to day, without strength and without life, deprived of the energy which is at once given by au thority and unity. The doctrinal points at issue between the two churches are so easy to clear up, that in them lie the least obstacles to a reunion. But the old prejudices of religious ani mosities which amount to fanaticism, and an ignorance of which it is difficult to form an idea, require great judgment in approaching the subject. It will require slow and well-con sidered preliminaries, not to wound their sus- DIFFICULTIES OF RECONCILIATION. ceptibilities so long kept up by old antipathies.

By wise precautions in carrying forward nego tiations, the work of the council of Florence may be resumed. It is impossible that the great Eastern churches should be fallen so low that they have not still some Bessarions sufficiently intelligent and upright to recognise the truth, and to co-operate with ardour in the reunion of these two churches. " As this reconciliation cannot be made with out great caution, and the careful preparation of men's minds, it is desirable that those animated by the sincere wish of saving this noble cause should communicate with eminent men of the estranged communions, to sound them, and to suggest to them the immense advantages of this reunion, so that it is possible to combat revived prejudices, and to weaken antipathies which have their origin only in national pride."

The memorial expressed that, having to visit the principal towns where Christianity chiefly flourishes in the East, I should be happy, while I devoted myself to my scientific labours, to study the question of religion, to collect all the information that could throw light upon this delicate subject, and to render an account to his Holiness on the return of the expedition of which I had the honour of being a member. I asked, in closing the memorial, the apostolic PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. benediction upon my labours of the common Father of the Faithful, who has grace to guide the flock which Jesus Christ has confided to him, to the end that the kingdom of God may soon arrive upon earth, and that there may be only one great human family, one flock, and one shepherd. I am ignorant whether my humble address and my prayer of a child of the church ever reached Pius IX.

Perhaps in the midst of the incessant agitations of these times, the memorial of an obscure pilgrim has remained in the port folio of a secretary occupied with other matters, who judged it better not to fatigue, with my supplication, the supreme Pontiff of the church. Perhaps these humble pages have passed under the observation of the vicar of Jesus Christ. His holy benediction, perhaps, followed me beyond the seas, and drew down upon me the almost miraculous protection of Providence, which never for one hour forsook me during the fatigues and dangers of my pilgrimage. All the preparations for our journey were eompleted. Besides M. Felicien de Saulcy, a young naturalist, who promises to be a Cuvier to science, and with whom I formed an intimate friendship during our travels, on aecount of his great modesty, so rare a virtue in young men of c MY FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. our times, we were accompanied by Mr. E. Delessert, who had no idea how much this delightful tour would develope in him the ele vated tastes of literature and science.

We dispatched by the packet-boat a case of arms of all kinds, to await our arrival at Athens. Although we never had occasion to make use of them, we have congratulated ourselves upon this wise precaution, indispensable to Europeans whenever they make long excursions upon the roads traversed by caravans. Nothing is so imposing to men in the East as our pistols and double-barrelled guns. Fire-arms are, in their eyes, the infallible sign of power ; and the superiority of those which they see us use gives them the measure of our strength. Amongst these arms a handsome musket was allotted to me; but at our departure from Beyrout to Jerusalem my companions had pity upon a man who had never killed a sparrow in his life. The musket changed its owner, and was trans ferred to the dragoman whom we had brought with us from Athens.

I was left to my papers and to my plants. I found the advantage of this on every account ; the maxim, " Ecclesia abhorret a sanguine," suits my peaceful tastes wonderfully. It may seem singular that, having for our object to reach Greece and the East, we took the EUROPEAN REMINISCENCES. 19 direction of the north of Europe rather than that of Italy; nevertheless, besides the pleasure of traversing that immense Germanic world, which extends from the Rhine to the frontiers of Poland, we had, thanks to steam, a great advantage in economy of time; and besides, we escaped the odious quarantines in the ports of the Mediter ranean, and the annoyances of all sorts upon the roads through the small states of Italy. In a few days we found ourselves at Trieste, in the gulf of the Adriatic. We had travelled through Belgium, Rhenish Prussia, Hanover, Prussia, the south of ancient Poland, and Austria in its whole extent.