Short notes of tours in America and India

Preface

. Much that is contained in the following pages will, I fear, be considered a very old story, seeing that my tour in America was made in 1859, just ten years ago. The notes of that tour, which were compil ed after my return to England, partly from notes and partly from actual letters, were thrown into the latter form entirely ; as being on the whole the easiest style of writing for an inexperienced and " untrained" author. My little brochure would have seen the light (as much of it at least as is generally visible in London) nine years ago, had I been able to induce any one to publish it ; which, as I may as well con fess, I was not. The remembrance of this not very encouraging circumstance, together with the painful consciousness of the existence, in these letters, of a o-ood deal of "twaddle" made me hesitate as to the expediency of publishing them now : but as I think some points are touched on, relating to matters ecclesiastical, which have been overlooked by most writers of "American notes," I venture to hope that some wheat may be extracted from the bundle of chaff, with which my readers are presented, and which I the less scruple to burden them with, in that " chaff" of another description will, I doubt not, overwhelm me for my presumption in thus rushing into print.

The noses of a tour in Bombay and Bengal were published originally in that much vilified print the " Madras Churchman" and as several people were pleased to say, that the notes had interested them, and as my American letters by themselves would have made up a volume of utterly contemptible proportions. I have been induced to re-publish my slight expe riences of the East along with those of the West. J. T. M. Madras, January 1869. CONTENTS.

Part I

— LETTEI1S FROM AMERICA. Page.

Letter I.— Description of the "Arabia" Steamship— The voyage 1 Letter II — Arrival at Halifax— The Harbour— Fort- Description of the City Q Letter III.— The Churches of Halifax — S. Paul's — S. George's — "Salem" Chapel — S. Luke's Cathedral— Roman Church- Style of services — Climate of Halifax 17 Letter IV.— Departure from Halifax : Arrival at Boston— Hotel coaches and ferry steamers. , 22 Letter V.— Hotels — Revere House — Street Railways — Cambridge — Harvard College— Chapel— Observatory— Christ Church— State House— Tremont Temple— Music Hall— Theatres— Dockyard — Bunker's Hill 26 Letter VI.— Boston Churches : Church of the Advent— Trinity— S. Paul's — Stone Chapel — System of Fire alarms — Climate of Boston 35 Letter VII.— Departure from Boston— American Railway— Steamer " Metropolis"— Arrival at New York 39 Letter VIII.— General description of New York— Broadway— Fifth Avenue— Central Park— Theatres— Barnum's Museum— Hotels. 45 Letter IX.— The Shipping of New York— Ocean Steamers— The Collins and Cunard lines of Mail Steamers 58 Letter X.— The Churches of New York: Trinity— S. Paul's— S. John's— Trinity Chapel— Grace Church— Calvary Church— S. Thomas'— Church of the Holy Innocents— Madison Street Mission—Church of the Holy Communion— Roman Churches- Unitarian Meeting House— Church feeliug in New York — American Prayer Book— Church papers C5 Letter XL— American Society— Departure from New York— Hudson River — Railway journey between Albany and Niagara — Fire at Lockport — Arrival at Niagara— Sound of the Falls 77 Letter XII. — Niagara — Description of the Falls — Moonlight visit to Goat Island — Visit to Brock's Monument and the Whirlpool — Buffalo — Roman Cathedra] — Lake Erie — Steamer " Western Metropolis" Letter XIII. — Departure from Niagara — Steamer on Lake Ontario — Kingston — River S. Lawrence — Lake of the Thousand Islands — Rapids of the S. Lawrence — Montreal — Roman Cathedral — New Anglican Cathedral — Festival of Corpus Christi — An ill spent Sunday afternoon— Convents— Departure from Montreal — Lake Champlain — Lake George — Fort William Henry — Charming specimen of an American Railway — Saratoga — Albany — Roman Cathedral and Church of 3.

Joseph — Return to Boston 95 Letter XIV.— State of Organ building in America — Organs built by Erben of New York — Hook of Boston, and Simmons and Wilcox of Boston— Brooklyn— Triuity Church — American Oysters and Lager Beer 106 Letter XV. — Excitability of the New Yorkers — The Japanese Embassy " Sensation"— The " Great Eastern" Excitement — Arrival of the "Great Eastern" 112 Journal kept on board the " Great Eastern"... 117

Part II

— NOTES OF A SHORT TOUR THROUGH THE NORTHERN PRESIDENCIES. Page. Chapter I.— Madras to Beypore — Voyage to Bombay — Bombay — Colaba Church— Cathedral. 133 Chapter II.— Bombay continued— Towers of Silence — Malabar Hill — Elephanta — Regatta in the Harbour— Bhore Ghaut 146 Chapter III. — Bombay to Nagpore— Church at Nagpore — Nagpore to Jubbulpore — Marble Rocks — Jubbulpore to Allahabad— Church at Allahabad 151 Chapter IV.— Delhi— Railway Station— Fort— Palace— Station Church — S. Stephen's Memorial Church .. 158 Chapter V. — Jumma Musjid— Kootub — Cashmere Gate — Arrival at Agra. 164 Chapter VI. — Agra — Fort — Taj— Akbar's Tomb — Cawnpore 169 Chapter VII. — Lucknow — Kaiser Bagh — Residency — Martiniere — Church — Benares — View from the River— College— Calcutta — Cathedral 174 Chapter VIII.— S. John's Church— Fort Church— S. James's Church.... 184 Chapter IX.— Bishop's College— Dum Dura— Climate of Calcutta, &c, — Return to Madras LETTEES FROM AMERICA.

Letter I

On board the " Arabia," January 1859. This is the first day, since we fairly lost sight of Old England, that I have been able to collect my thoughts and writing materials, and to keep them sufficiently steady for a letter. Commend me to an Atlantic voyage in January, for an experience of the rise and progress of sea-sickness ! But I know you would like me to " begin at the beginning," as I used to say in those long bye-gone days, when my greatest delight was in listening to the stories, original and otherwise, of which you had so large a store. I however have nothing to tell you at all resembling those old stories, but only some very matter-of-fact occurrences. It was a cold, foggy afternoon, when E. and I drove down to the landing-stage at Liverpool, accompanied by two friends, who were to see us safe on board the " Arabia" steam-ship, then at anchor in the Mersey, with her steam up, and ready for a start.

On leaving the cab, we formed a small procession, in which my luggage took the lead, and with some difficulty made our way to a small red funnelled steamer, moored at one corner of the landing-stage. About twenty of our future fellow-passengers were already on board the little vessel, most of them accompanied like ourselves by friends, determined to see the last of them. It was about as dreary a day, for leaving home, for the first time on an Atlantic voyage, as could well be imagined, and I thought, with a shudder, of the Nova Scotian winter that lay before us. Water and sky were all of one colour. At the wharf, alongside of which we were moored, the ferry steamers were bobbing up and down, under the influence of a very decided swell, which (together with the strong south-west wind then blowing) conjured up sundry frightful reminiscences of sea-sickness, not to be prevented from changing into equally frightful anticipations ; even by the remembrance of the large stock of chloroform with which I was provided.

Beyond the steamers, the forms of sundry vessels riding at anchor, could be indistinctly seen ; whilst beyond them again, was an obscure something, which, by those acquainted with the locality, might have been recognized as Birkenhead. After a delay of about ten minutes, the lines were cast off, and we steamed out into the mist, in search of the " Arabia." I strained my eyes to the utmost, in vain endeavours to distinguish the vessel that was to be our home for the next fortnight ; but at last gave up the attempt in despair, and wrapping my warm cloak more closely round me, sat down and turned my attention to other matters. I was roused by a sudden jerk -T and on looking up, found our little steamer overshadowed by a huge round stern, with the red ensign flying on the staff, and the name " Arabia" printed above some sham stern-windows.

We slowly glided up to the gangway, and soon our little party was safely transferred from the small ship to the large one. As you have never seen one of the justly-celebrated " Cunard Steamers," I think I may as well pause here and give you a description of our ship. As all these vessels are arranged in much the same way, to describe one, is to give a pretty fair idea of all. The " Arabia" is a ship of about 2,400 tons measurement, including her engine-room. She is 300 feet long over all, by 41 broad, and about 36 feet deep from the upper or spar-deck. She has two funnels, painted red with black tops ; and two masts, both fully rigged with square sails. Her engines are of 1000 horse power, the paddle wheels being 36 feet in diameter. So much for her external appearance. And now as regards her passenger arrangements.

The upper deck of all may be called the promenade or spar-deck, and extends the entire length of the vessel, though not the whole width. It is, in fact, the roof of a long deck-house which occupies the greater portion of the main-deck— (satfe where interrupted by the crank hatches) — leaving a long narrow strip of the deck on each side, open to the air. This is so, however, only on the after-portion of the vessel, as, forward of the after-most fun nel. The spar-deck extends the whole width of the ship, thus completely shutting in the main-deck. This arrangement, however, is peculiar to the " Arabia," the other vessels of the Company having the forward-part of the deck similar to the after-end. This spar-deck forms the favourite resort of the passengers in fine weather, but when the spray is flying too much to render the position pleasant, the narrow open strips of the main-deck on each side of the deck-house be come the fashionable promenade.

And now for the contents of this deck-house. At the extreme stern you have the steering chamber, with a raised roof with glass windows all round, so as to allow the steersman to see well forward on the spar-deck. There are generally only two wheels on the axle, though in bad weather I believe another one can be added. On each side of the steering chambers, are cabins for two of the officers. In front of these, comes the chief dining saloon. This is a handsome room about 70 feet long by 20 broad, and 8 feet high. It is fitted up in the ordinary way, and is well lighted by seven large windows on each side. Of course there is the usual quantity of mirrors and maplewood. Forward of this, and separated from it by a passage is the steward's pantry. This passage is indeed the entrance hall and has a door on each side opening from the main-deck.

On each side of the saloon door is a well-filled book-case, and on each side of the pantry or bar-room door opposite, is a staircase leading down to the sleeping cabins, &e. on the lower deck. Continuing, however, our course forward, we pass in succession the captain's cabin and the kitchen. Here the deck house ends, or rather seems to have split asunder, to make way for the crank hatches, as there are cabins on each side of the deck ; at this point, for the" use of the purser, baker, car penter, &c, and last, though not least, the cow. Beyond the crank hatches, the deck-house joins itself together again in the centre of the vessel, and contains, in succession, the Engineer's cabin, the forward saloon, and lower deck stair case, and the seamen's berths, together with a number of other places which I cannot now enumerate.

I forgot to mention that the entrance gangway is through the bulwarks of the main-deck, nearly opposite the saloon door, and close to it is the staircase leading up on to the spar-deck. The lower deck is occupied for its entire length (save where interrupted by the engine room) by a row of state rooms along each side. The entire centre space forward is also occupied by state rooms, and about fifty feet of the length aft, there being room in the remaining portion for two small saloons — one for gentlemen, the other for ladies. This latter is very prettily furnished, and the whole of the cabins are well ventilated, and have a height of 8 feet. Having thus endeavoured to give to you some idea of our ship, I will resume the narrative of my journey. My first move after seeing my luggage safely transferred from the tender to the " Arabia," was to rush into the saloon to secure a place at table.

I might have spared myself the trouble. Only two tables, out of eight, were required for our small number, and had I foreseen the very slight acquaintance I was destined to form with the dinner table, I should have given myself no anxiety on the subject. As the time for departure drew near, our friends who were not to accompany us began to make their adieux, and the greater portion of them left in the steamer which brought us on board. My friends, however, determined to see the very last of us, obtained permission to land in the steamer which was to bring the mails. We accordingly sought the upper deck, and had been promenading up and down for some time deeply engaged in conversation, when thinking I felt some motion, I looked up, and lo ! the long white wake astern shewed that we were positively off.

The dismay of my friends may be imagined. They fully made up their minds to an unexpected Atlantic trip. To our great relief, however, we soon saw the little tender waiting for us ; and as we passed her, she steamed up alongside, and without either vessel stopping, the mail-bags were brought on board, while my friends tumbled down the ladder into the tender, with more haste than ceremony. After seeing them safely down the perilous path, I ascended to the upper-deck and walked to the extreme stern in order to, see the last, of what was now, the only link that bound us to the old country. Very soon the last mail-bag disappeared through the gang way, the lashings were cast off — a voice on the bridge gave the order, " Full speed," the little tender rapidly receded into the mist, through which I could just discern the white handkerchiefs of my friends waving their last adieux, and we were " off."

It was now rapidly getting dark, and as the mist had already turned to rain, I hastened to take shelter in the saloon. Here dinner soon engaged our attention, and had I known how long it would be ere another good meal would fall to my lot, I think I should (if possible) have done it even greater justice than I did. You would be astonished, if you could see the dinners which they produce day after day on board these vessels — a bill of fare as long as my arm, and everything excellent. Dinner over, I took up a book and began to read. I tried hard to persuade myself, that the very unpleasant headache, which was forcing itself on my notice, was not the usual precursor of the dreaded sea-sickness. Did you ever watch any one undergoing the preparatory symptoms ? It is a curious study, in more ways than one.

You see the victim enter the cabin with a firm step and resolute eye. He seats himself on a sofa, (near the door) leaning well back, and holding a book in his hand. He smiles broadly at all the jokes, if there be any ; but presently the book drops on the table ; and the reader's head (leaning on one hand) is bent over it. By and bye the other hand is required to prop up the increasing weight — till at last (previously observing aloud for the benefit of those within hearing, that he is excessively fatigued) the unhappy man lies down at full length on the sofa ; still however attempting to look unconcerned, and pretending to read the book which he yet retains. At this juncture he probably calls for a glass of brandy. If you have the heart to watch him further, you will perceive his eyes closing gradually ; presently the book falls from his hand, and after a moment or two of ghastly quiet, he suddenly starts up, and makes a blind rush for the stairway.

It generally happens that you don't see that individual again for some days. I did not remain in the saloon, beyond the first stage of the process, but retired in good sea son, with a serene countenance and a tranquil mind, for I thought of my chloroform, and was comforted. Deluded mortal ! I found too late, alas, that there is no cure for sea sickness ; and I warn you to give no credit to any one, who tells you that there is. I took the prescribed dose, got into bed, and never was so ill in my life. I draw a veil over this part of my adventures, for it would be only harrowing up your feelings needlessly, to tell you of my sufferings. The weather meantime changed from bad to worse, and the motion of the vessel increased. So bad was it, that 1 made no effort to leave my bed until we had been out five days.

We left on Saturday, and it was not till Thursday that I ventured to rise. It was then blowing a gale of wind, but I was determined to see at least one Atlantic storm, and accord ingly got up, and dressed, though not without immense difficulty. After staggering along the passage and up the stairs, I sat down in the saloon, to rest ; and gain breath and courage to complete my enterprise. The aspect of the main deck, as seen from the saloon windows, was not encouraging. Spray was flying in showers, rendering the deck wet and slippery, and every now and then, as the ship rolled more heavily than usual, a huge leaden-coloured expanse, streak ed and spotted with white patches of foam, became visible above the bulwarks. I was resolved, however, to see the scene on deck — and opening the door I crawled out, clinging to anything I could find, and getting wet through in my passage to the stairway.

I succeeded so far as t6 get my head above the level of the spar-deck — and if you will refer to my sketch, you will have some idea of what I saw. Des cribe it, I cannot — I feel ill when I think of it. That exploit made me so sick, that I had to return to the solitude of my state cabin, nor was I able to leave it till the following Mon day. On that day however the weather changed, and we were favoured with a sight of the sun, although it still con tinued rough, and the cold was intense. On going on deck, things looked much more lively than hitherto ; almost all our passengers being assembled, some of them walking up and down, others gathered round the funnels, the neighbour hood of which was after all by far the most comfortable place. The decks looked beautifully clean, and nothing remained to tell of the gale, save the salt, which entirely covered both the funnels with a thick white coating.

The day passed very pleasantly, and we had singing in the even in a, in which some of the ladies joined. The next day was but a repetition of Monday ; and we are now beginning to speculate as to the time of our arrival at Halifax. I shall here close this long epistle, and write again when we are fairly settled in our new abode. I had better leave this open, and if I have the time before the mail goes out, I shall add a line merely to tell you of our arrival.

Letter II

* Halifax. Here we are at last, safe and sound. We did not, as is usual, sight Cape Race at all, so that the hills at the entrance of Halifax harbour were the first land we saw. But as I have brought our voyage down to Wed nesday only, I have been rather too precipitate in bringing our good ship so soon to the end of her voyage, for when we retired to rest on Thursday night, there was no sign of land. At eight o'clock on Friday morning, our thirteenth day out, the steward came into our cabin with the welcome intelligence that we had entered Halifax Har bour. We rose and dressed with all speed — and as I was passing up the staircase — I felt the motion of the vessel cease : our voyage was at an end. I had been prepared for a wintery scene, but certainly my first view of Halifax gave me an idea of dreary desolation, infinitely greater than any thing I had previously imagined.

I shall try to describe it, * All personal details of my residence in Halifax are purposely omitted ; firstly, hecause to the general reader, they would be possessed of no interest ; and secondly, hecause I feel that to make them public, would he very like a breach of that hospitality, which was so liberally extended to me there, and the rememhrance of which will write " Halifax" in golden letters, in my memory for ever. ■2. but I almost despair of 'conveying to you the impression it made on me. You must fancy yourself standing on a deck at least six inches deep in snow, and looking over the stern railings which were encased in a thick covering of ice. The harbour which is here about a mile broad, and was now frozen over, formed the centre of the picture ; its smooth white surface being intersected by what looked like a narrow river full of floating ice, but was in fact the channel which we had broken in our passage up.

It was far too thick, from mist and falling snow, to see the entrance of the harbour, distant about five miles, and the view was consequently limited to a circle of less than a mile. Close alongside on the right hand was the wharf at which we were preparing to make fast. On it were some thirty or forty people, all look ing half awake and torpid, as well as about half a dozen sleighs, the jingling of whose bells, together with the blow ing off of our steam, and the orders given by the officers, &c, were the only sounds audible. Indeed it seemed as though the whole place were in a state of hybernatioa. Along the margin of the harbour lay a long line of wharfs stretching as far as the eye could reach, and alongside of them num bers of small vessels all fast asleep in the ice. Behind these rose up the snow-covered roofs of the houses — with an occasional spire (looking black and grimy by contrast with the dazzling white of everything around) to break the monotonous outline, while the whole was topped, by the citadel, the very flag on whose staff seemed to have joined in the general slum ber.

On the left hand side of the harbour, the town of Dart mouth might have been discovered by any one who knew where to look for it, though the only indication of its where abouts was a dirty-looking patch on the white hills which bounded the ice in that direction. Having comforted myself by a careful study of this very cheering landscape, I pro ceeded to get my effects on shore, and I and my friend soon found ourselves, standing sentry over our possessions in a shed on the wharf, there to await the usual and customary nuisance. We were the more annoyed when we found that the exami nation was a mere form, not one of our boxes being opened— not that I should have been better pleased, had everything been turned out, but when one is kept waiting, it is as well that it should be for something. My feet (having already passed through a dozen progressive stages of torture) by this time had ceased to remind me of their existence ; indeed it required ocular demonstration to assure me that I still retained even boots — and accordingly, I determined to walk to the hotel, thereby hoping to infuse a little heat into my system.

With this view, I engaged the services of the most respectable looking sleigh-driver I could see, and desired him to put our effects on his sleigh, and then drive slowly up to the " Waverly Hotel," — going at a walking pace, so as to enable us to follow him. The result of this elaborate direction on my part, was, that having carefully attended to the first half of my injunction, the rascal rendered void the second, by starting off at full trot, disappearing round a corner, and leaving me to speculate on the chances which might exist, as to my ever seeing my " impedimenta' ' again. By dint of enquiry however, we soon found our way along the snow-covered streets, to the Waverley — and on arriving there, were greatly relieved by seeing our friend and his sleigh standing at the door. I was so thankful to find myself again in company with my effects, that I forbore to deliver myself of the very strong language which was on my tongue, and after some little trouble, we secured a comfortable room with (what appeared to be rather uncommon in the house) an open fire-place.

As you say that you wish to know exactly what sort of place Halifax is, I shall in this letter give you a description of the town itself, which will be helped out I trust by my drawings. The harbour of Halifax is nearly two miles wide at the entrance, and after extending inland for about four miles, divides ; one arm running beyond the point of division about a mile and a half further inland. The other, which is the principal portion of the harbour, after containing about an equal distance contracts to a very narrow channel, and then widens into a lake three miles long, known as the basin. The town of Halifax stands near the head of the tongue of land which divides the two arms of the harbour, being built along the edge of the principal one, just outside the channel leading to the basin. The distance across to the smaller or north-west arm is about a mile and a half at this point, and the town may perhaps some day extend quite across — at present however, it confines itself to one water front, and the wharves, &c. stretch for nearly two miles along the base of the hill on which the town stands.

In the har bour are two islands — the larger close to its entrance known as Macnab's Island, being nearly two miles long and the smaller (which is very much smaller) lying opposite the town. This latter is fortified and is called George's Island. On the eastern side of the harbour (Halifax standing on the western side) is the small town of Dartmouth. Having thus given you a general idea of the position of the city, I shall pro ceed to a more minute description. The citadel, occupying the summit of the hill, along the side of which the town is built, claims attention first. As you know, I have no acquaintance with military terms, but I shall do my best to describe what I saw, and you must not be too hard upon me. You enter through a stone archway, and after passing over the drawbridge, find yourself in a large court-yard.

In the centre of this is a building, used as barracks, and containing in the upper part (which is a bomb proof), a large store of all kinds of murderous apparatus, such as shot, shell, gun powder, &c. All round the yard are the quarters for the officers and men. These latter are under the inner line of fortifications, between which and the outer is a ditch. On the angle facing the sea, is a small watch-house, with a powerful telescope, and close to it the flagstaff from which the arrival of the steamers, &c. is telegraphed. Passing under neath the inner line of bastions (or whatever the name of them may be) you find yourself in a broad ditch, bounded on each side by strong walls of masonry. Crossing this, and entering a small door in the opposite wall, you discover a long narrow passage, having loop-holes at intervals, com manding the ditch.

The gallery extends entirely round the citadel, and branching off from it at certain intervals, are mines extending underneath the glacis. Altogether, it is an interesting place to visit, especially when the tour of inspec tion is concluded by champagne in the officers' quarters. Near the citadel, and on the slope of the hill, stands the hospital — a long, ugly factory-like building and the Garri son Chapel, this latter being the regular old Pagan-temple style. There is a very large and somewhat handsome build ing in course of erection, north of the town, which will be used, I believe, for a barrack. So much for the military establishment. The naval Dock-yard is at the extreme north end of the city, nearest the basin, and in the summer time there are generally three or four men-of-war stationed here, one of them always being a line-of-battle ship.