Rosneath past and present ... With ... poem by the Marquis of Lorne, and illustrations by A. M. Gibbon

Preface

. The following pages form a modest contribution to those local, secular, and ecclesiastical records of interesting places in our land which are a little removed from the more stirring domains of Scottish history. The author, having resided for over twenty years in the district, has been able to glean his facts from various sources, chiefly the recollections and experiences of aged natives and residents, many of whom have passed away. Much, therefore, of what must irrevocably have been lost is here set down, and it is hoped that the peculiar attractiveness of the beautiful Peninsula, and its inherent poetic and pictorial charms, may render the volume acceptable. Hardly anything has ever been written about Rosneath, and the tiny rills which it has contributed to the noble stream of Scottish history have but gently meandered on their way.

But not a few remarkable men have wandered by its pebbly strand, and inhaled the pure air of its heathery braes, and it is hoped that many may welcome this effort to bring the manifold fascinations of the Penin sula under the notice of a wider circle. 3K.ILAR3DEN, Rosneath, 12th July, 1893. A.D. 1155. A.D, 1250. A.D. 1295. A.D, 1310. ROSNEATH. Heirloom of red Flodden's glory ! guarded through so many ages, From thy tranquil, happy story, men may fill enchanted pages — Tell of Peace as here abiding, when around raged strife and clangour ; Here in peace they dwelt whose guiding led the realm through years of anger ; From the times when all these regions heard the shock of Norway's galleys, And the Maiden Monarch's legions saved the land in yonder valleys ; Once again by Haco shaken with invasion's fiery trial, Till at Largs the challenge taken was repelled with grim denial.

Still, through all, a calm reposes on these woods, and bays, and shallows — Peace for us in memory closes in the place affection hallows ! Legends tell how noble Wallace here awhile his destined sorrow Baffled, ere o'er wrong and malice dawned his country's happier morrow. Read the Blind Bard's rough recital ! How Rosneath's tall castle slumbered When he dealt his foes requital, and these shores with dead were cumbered. It had seen beneath its rafter, king, and soldier, and crusader : Freed from alien bonds thereafter, never hither came invader. Stoutly from Dunoon Sir Nigel all its English captors hounded, — Broke with Bruce our nation's vigil — clear our Freedom's trumpet sounded ! ROSNEATH. XII A.D, 1430. A.D. 1415 A.D. 1520. A.D. 1661 A.D. 1685. A.D, 1715, Hence Sir Duncan bore the treasure, ransom of the King, whose throning Brought him from fair Windsor's pleasure to the doom of death and moaning.

Hence the Chancellor, whose father first as heir this soil had trodden, Went to meet his fate and gather glory in the van at Flodden. Here too lived, young joy upon her, Margaret Douglas, loved and cherished, Ere for Covenant and for Honour, earthly good had nobly perished, When the house-dogs howled disaster in the hour the Lord had beckoned, And Edina saw their master to the martyrs' army reckoned. Yet again these shores were lonely when their bravest went to slaughter, Fortune's dice were thrown, and only thrown too soon at Cart's dark water ! Still when wars were surging nearer to this Isle in beauty moulded, It but seemed to Peace the dearer. Here she stood, her white wings folded— Never left the loved green Island — stayed, its watchful, bright defender, When through Lowland and through Highland rolled the wars of the Pretender.

He who fixed his steadfast gaze on work to bind the realms together And enrolled within his blazon England's rose with Scotland's heather- He who rode through Party's phases, borne aloft o'er sneers and slanders As he rode with poet's praises through the Frenchmen's ranks in Flanders Long ere age his fire arrested, when all loves and hates are chastened Here from war and council rested, here the reign of mercy hastened. ROSNEATH. XIII Yes, e'en now, when strokes of hammer on no mailed forms are ringing, But with iron tongue and clamour Trade's great song are ever singing, Peace yet stands, her love unfailing. Here, while Commerce grows around her, Doth she bless her navies sailing to all lands where men have crowned her. Here amidst her groves of beeches, pine and fir, and rose and laurel, Many a memory downward reaches from the days of care and quarrel ; From the triumph aud endeavour that at last iu equal measure Made our Scotland share forever in her foeuian's fame and treasure : When from Cove to Ardencaple flames the western sky, and splendour Falls ou keep, and stream, and chapel, scenes as fair as earth can render, Speak of deeds, that high and lowly, well may prize as Honour's dower, In the building, proud and holy, of our ancient Scotland's power ! LORNE. CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter I

Past ami Present. The beautiful Peninsula of Rosneath forms part of the County of Dunbarton, which has been the scene of many stirring episodes in our national history. It was a portion of the ancient territory of Strathclyde, whose capital, Dunbarton, or Dunbritton, figured con spicuously in the story of Roman occupation and throughout the fierce conflicts of the ancient Britons, Picts, and Scots. Amongst the earlier tribes who lived in the country Druidism was the prevailing religion, and it is quite possible that in some of the secluded glens of the Rosneath Peninsula, were beheld, in olden times, many idolatrous and mystical rites. The Britons of Strathclyde had enough to do to protect themselves against plundering inroads of the Picts. About A.D. 508, the famous Prince Arthur, who had been elected ruler or Pendragon by the chiefs, seems, if ancient chronicles can be credited, ROSNEATH to have fixed one of his seats of authority at Alcluid, as Dunbarton was styled in those days.

Coming down later in the stream of time we find the Vikings or Northern Sea Kings, who had settled on the Irish coast, crossing the channel and establishing themselves, for a brief period, on the land adjacent to the estuary of the Clyde. They plundered Alcluid and ravaged the neighbouring country in the year 875. When the Britons of Strathclyde, enfeebled by incessant attacks of their enemies, migrated to the vicinity of their kindred in Wales in the year 890, the kingdom they dominated dwindled into anarchy and obscurity, until the Scots of Dalriada finally annexed their territory in the time of Kenneth III. The Danes, who were such sore scourges to both England and Scotland, afterwards ravaged the shores of the Frith of Clyde, and Dunbritton, or Fort of the Britons, as Dunbarton came to be known, often saw their hostile ships pass her ramparts.

Readers of history know that later on, Haco, King of Norway, in the year 1263, set forth to punish the excesses of those whom he considered his unruly subjects in the Western Isles of Scotland. The expedition, which was under Magnus, King of the Isle of Man, proceeded up the waters of Loch Long, which separates the Rosneath Peninsula from the Gareloch. Sailing along its heath-clad mountainous shores to the head of Loch Long, the invaders dragged their boats across the narrow neck of land over to the gravelly strand of the beautiful Loch Lomond. Here they indulged their savage propensities in ravaging the country around the Loch, almost reducing it to a solitude, and further, carried fire and sword far into the confines of Dunbarton and Stirling shires. Vengeance, however, in the wrath of the elements, overtook the marauders, for in retiring with their plunder from Loch Long, a great storm arose and scattered the fleet.

Gathering together his forces to their rescue, as well as he could, the Norwegian king subsequently saw his expedition utterly vanquished at the celebrated Battle of Largs. The County of Dunbarton after this was frequently mixed up with the general course of Scottish history, and the Rosneath Peninsula was from time to time, the scene of striking episodes. It was visited in the course of his romantic career, by the great hero of Scotland, Sir William Wallace. One day, when pursued by his enemies, the hero on his gallant steed leaped from the summit of a lofty rock not far from Rosneath Castle, and, though the horse was killed, his rider gained the shore and swam across the entrance of the Gareloch to the opposite point of Cairndhu, and made good his escape. In "Blind Harry " we read how he sacked Dunbarton, then after burning the Castle of Rosneath, he went on to Faslane Castle, near the upper end of the Gareloch, and was received by his friend the Earl of Lennox.

As is also well known, another great Scottish hero king, Bobert the Bruce, passed many of his latter days within sight of Rosneath Peninsula, in his Castle at Cardross. Enthusiastic votaries of the patriot king go to search for the remains of the royal residence at this spot, but there is hardly any trace now to be found. All frag- ROSNEATH ments of the building have long since disappeared, but the site is generally supposed to be a wooded knoll on the farm of Castlehill, between Cardross and Dunbarton. The King spent a good deal of his leisure time in building pleasure boats, as well as warlike vessels, which he sailed on the placid estuary of the Clyde, and he doubtless often found his way up the landlocked waters of the Gareloch. He lived as became a powerful monarch at Cardross, and handsomely entertained such of the nobility and clergy as came to pay their homage at his court.

King Robert died on 7th June, 1329, in the 55th year of his age, lamented by the Scottish nation, whose liberties he had secured. His pathetic charge on his deathbed to Sir James Douglas, the "brave and gentle knight," is well known, and how he told his friend that the dear wish of his heart was to set out for Oriental lands, especially Palestine, to carry on war, in person, against the enemies of his Lord and Saviour. The dying hero en joined the good knight to take his embalmed heart, accompanied by his devoted followers, to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jeru salem, and there deposit it in the sanctuary. And the story goes on to narrate how the King's faithful friend duly set off on his ad venturous journey with a body of chosen companions, and on their way to Jerusalem encountered their Saracen foes.

When the enemy's cavalry surrounded the gallant Douglas, and he was about to be borne down by their numbers, he took the silver casket, which with its precious contents, the heart of Bruce, was hung across his neck, and flung it into the serried array of horsemen, "Pass onward," exclaimed the knight, "as thou was wont, and Douglas will follow thee or die." Another distinguished name in Scottish history was for long interwoven with the stirring events which have taken place in Rosneath and neighbourhood, namely, the powerful family of the Lennox. Much of the land of the Peninsula and on the shores of the Gareloch was, for centuries, in the possession of the Earls of Lennox, an ancient race. But about the year 1425, the head of the family and various of his near relations were put to death at Stirling.

And in 1489, the Earl of Lennox having been engaged in treasonable practices, his lands were confiscated, although as appears from the records of the Scottish Parliament, he was pardoned for the offence. Still the forfeiture of his lands was not withdrawn, for in 1489 the lands of Rosneath were awarded to Colin, first Earl of Argyll. Thus the greatest part of the southern half of the Peninsula was conveyed to the Argyll family, whose genius has so permanently impressed itself upon the history of their country and clan. There were several other properties in Rosneath, such as those of Campbell of Peatoun, Campbell of Mamore, Campbells of Carrick, Cumming of Barremman, some of which only came into possession of the Argylls well on in the eighteenth century. The estates of Peatoun on Loch Long side, and Barremman on the Gareloch, were never acquired by the Argylls; the former being still, and for centuries before, owned by a Campbell, no doubt a scion of the powerful " Clan Diarmid."

Their holding in the " Island of Rosneath," as the Peninsula was styled in the old title deeds, brought ROSNEATH the Argyll family into more immediate connection with the Low landers. The Earl of Argyll who first owned Rosneath was a man of some note, sagacious and upright, and he filled several important posts, amongst them Lord High Chancellor of Scotland, and Pleni potentiary at the famous Northampton Conference. It was of much advantage to the district of Rosneath when so powerful a nobleman as the head of the Clan Campbell came to reside on the Gareloch, especially when the fourth Earl of Argyll adopted the Protestant faith. This Earl was the first amongst the Scottish nobility to em brace the reformed religion, and history records the grand stand which his descendants made against the encroachments of Popery, and in defence of the religion and liberties of their country.

At the upper end of the Gareloch, the Rosneath estate is bounded by the ancient property of Faslane, which was once possessed by the distinguished family of Lennox, though, for some time past, this has been the property of Sir James Colquhoun of Luss. The family of Lennox was an old one, the first Earl, Alwyn, being the earliest representa tive of the race of whom history gives account, and he flourished about the middle of the twelfth century. His descendant, another Alwyn, succeeded to the title and estates ; one of his sons, Aulay by name, owning the lands of Faslane. They also possessed an estate near the Castle of Dunbarton, residing often in the castle. In addition to their other extensive territories, the Lennox family, whose revenues were large, owned land at Balloch at foot of Loch Lomond, besides being judges and lawgivers in the district, when they had feudal jurisdiction.

Their names are well known in Scottish history, and the collateral branches of the houses embraced some distinguished personages, amongst them Napier of Merchiston. But the fortunes of the family gradually dwindled, and the title and estates became merged in the Crown in the sixteenth century by the marriage of Lord Darnley with Mary Queen of Scots. The family of the Colquhouns of Colquhoun and Luss, whose fine estates dominate the whole of the eastern side of the Gareloch, is one of great antiquity. Its origin is of very remote date, one of the earliest representatives of the race being alleged to be none other than the famous chieftain Galgacus, who contended with the Romans at the battle of the Grampians. In the reign of King David II. , Sir Robert Colquhoun of that Ilk married the heiress of the house of Luss, and from that period the name frequently occurs in contem porary records of Scottish history.

For a time also the Colquhouns appear to have owned territory in the Rosneath Peninsula. In 1472 the lands of Rosneath seem to have been acquired, through grant from the Crown, by Sir John Colquhoun, — the same who, in the previous year, was made Sheriff-Principal of Dunbartonshire. This Knight was in 1474 raised to the dignity of Grand Chamberlain, and was sent to England with full plenipotentiary powers to arrange a marriage between two of the younger members of the royal families. Though the marriage did not take place, the King was much satisfied with the wisdom displayed by Sir John Colquhoun throughout his mission, and made him governor for life of Dunbarton Castle. As ROSNEATH showing how extensive were the possessions of the Colquhoun family at one time, it would appear they held the greater part of the territory of Lennox.

They obtained charters under the Great Seal of the lands of Rosneath, Colquhoun, Dumbuck, Garscube, Walton, Dunglass and others, besides grants from the Earls of Lennox of fishings in Loch Lomond, the Leven, and the Gareloch, which were held as separate subjects from their other properties. The 13th head of the Colquhoun family, Sir John, is mentioned in the famous " Casket Letters " which passed between Queen Mary and the Earl of Bothwell. Sir John so far remained friendly to the Queen after Darnley's murder, and refused the call to arms made by the Regent Moray at Maxwellheuch, although at a subsequent date he seems to have forsaken the cause of the hapless Queen and fought against her at Langside. The Colquhouns were supporters of the Royalist cause at the crisis of the great civil war, and their ancient stronghold of Rossdhu was besieged by Cromwell's soldiers, and they were no friends to either nonconformists or covenanters.

Another of the old lords of the soil on the Gareloch was that of Macaulay of Ardencaple, descended from a younger son of Alwyn Earl of Lennox. This family seems to have settled as landowners in the district in the 13th century. Their estate stretched from Cardross on the east, to the head of the Gareloch, and embraced the whole of the land on which the modern town of Helensburgh stands. There were two residences on the estate, one the old ivy-clad castle of Ardencaple, part of which, with some modern additions, still stands amidst fine lofty trees near Cairndhu Point, and the small keep of Faslane near the bay of the same name on the Gareloch. About two hundred years ago the fortunes of the family began to decline, and the then laird, Aulay M'Aulay, had to dispose of his estates to the Colquhouns, and the last of the family died at Row in 1767.

The Argyll family having been so long connected with the peninsula of Rosneath it may be well to give a few details regarding this powerful Highland clan. According to the genealogists of the Argyll family, their predecessors, on the female side, were possessors of Lochow, in Argyllshire, as far back as the year 404. In the eleventh century, Archibald Campbell, a gentleman of Anglo-Norman lineage, acquired the lordship of Lochow by marriage with Eva, daughter of the lord of Lochow. Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow, sixth in descent, distinguished himself by his warlike actions, and was knighted by King Alexander the Third in 1280. He was famed for his prowess and added greatly to the possessions of the family, and from him the chief of the Argyll family is styled in Gaelic Mac Chaillan Mor. Sir Colin, who was slain in 1294 in a battle with the Lord of Lorn, and his son, Sir Neil, fought with King Robert the Bruce in most of his great battles.

His eldest son, Sir Colin, accompanied the King to Ireland, and married a daughter of the house of Lennox. Passing by his son, Sir Archibald, we come to Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochow, who first assumed the designation of Argyll, and became a lord of Parliament in 1445 under the title of Lord Campbell, and was buried at Kilmun. His grandson, Colin, ROSNEATH 10 was first created Earl of Argyll in 1457, and acquired the lands of Rosneath in 1489. He was one of the commissioners for negotiating a truce with King Edward the Fourth of England in 1463, was one of the commissioners sent to France to renew the treaty with that Crown in 1484, and became Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. The Earl died in 1493, and shortly afterwards Archibald, his son, the second Earl, acquired the fine property of Castle Campbell, near Dollar, in 1497, by grant of confirmation by James the Fourth, which remained in the family till 180S, when it was sold.

At the fatal battle of Flodden, 9th September, 1513, the Earl of Argyll was killed along with his brother-in-law, the Earl of Lennox, and the flower of the Scottish nobility. Passing by Colin, the third Earl, we come to Archibald, fourth Earl of Argyll, who distinguished him self at the disastrous battle of Pinkie in September 1547, and was the first of the Scottish nobility who embraced the principles of the Reformation. Archibald, the fifth Earl, distinguished himself as one of the most able of the Lords of the Congregation. His name appears in the famous bond subscribed by some of the nobility in favour of Queen Mary's marriage with Bothwell, in which affair he seems to have played a double part. He carried the Sword of State at the coronation of James the Sixth, 29th July 1567, and was appointed Lord High Chancellor in 1572.

The first of the family who took a really commanding place in Scottish history and affairs, was Archibald, eighth Earl, and first Marquis of Argyll, who was born in 1598, son of Archibald, seventh Earl, by Lady AnneDouglas, daughter of the Earl of Morton. He attended the famous General Assembly of the Church of Scotland held in Glasgow in 1638, and in 1641, when Charles I. came to Scotland, he was created first Marquis of Argyll. In 1644 Argyll was commissioned by the Convention in Edinburgh to raise an army to oppose the Marquis of Huntly, who had hoisted the Standard of Rebellion. This he did, and throughout the year was engaged in various hostilities in different parts of Scotland, reaching Inverurie, in Aberdeenshire, in October, with an army of 2500 foot and 1200 horsemen, when he found himself close to the camp of Montrose with a much inferior force.

Argyll attacked the army of Montrose, and threw the followers of the latter into confusion, but after a time they were rallied and assailed their foes with success, forcing Argyll to draw off his men. In February 1645, Argyll's troops were totally defeated at the battle of Inverlochy by his powerful rival Montrose, when some 1500 of his family and name were killed. Shortly afterwards, at the battle of Kilsyth, his counsel was disadvantageous to the Covenanters, who were signally defeated by Montrose. It was not so much as a warrior that Argyll achieved distinction, but as a statesman and a patriot. Very strongly attached to the Presbyterian party, the Marquis sought to bind Charles IL, when he came as a fugitive to Scotland, to support that form of religious observance. At the coronation of the King at Scone in January 1651, Argyll placed the crown on Charles' head, and was the first to swear allegiance to him.

His signal services to the royal cause were ill requited by the worthless King, who caused ROSNEATH Argyll to be imprisoned in the Tower for five months, and afterwards sent as a prisoner for trial to Edinburgh. The offence alleged against the Marquis was that he accepted the Protectorate and Government of Cromwell, and was present at the meeting of Privy Council, when the latter was proclaimed Lord Protector. He was beheaded at the Cross of Edinburgh on 27th May 1661, his head being exposed on a spike at the west end of the Tolbooth, and his body buried in the family burying-place at Kilmun. The Marquis met his death with the utmost fortitude and solemnity, behaving on the scaffold with signal courage, and his lofty character and true piety were displayed to the admiration of all who knew him.

His eldest son, Archibald, succeeded to the family honours, with the exception of the Marquisate, and had been educated by his father in the true principles of loyalty to the Crown and the Protestant religion. In 1654 he received a commission as lieutenant-general from Charles II. , and joined the Earl of Glencairn with the view of taking arms on behalf of the royal cause. In 1657 he was thrown into prison by order of General Monk, and kept in confinement until the restoration of Charles to the throne. During the troubles which befel his father, Lord Lome endeavoured to save his life, and incurred the displeasure of the Earl of Middleton, Lord High Commissioner, and the sworn foe of the Marquis of Argyll, and afterwards again underwent a long term of imprisonment in the Castle of Edinburgh.

Charles becoming sensible of the services which Lord Lome had rendered him, at last, in 1663, restored him the estates of his father, and the title of Earl of Argyll. In 1681, when the Duke of York, afterwards James IL, went to Scotland, a parliament was summoned at Edinburgh, which estab lished certain oaths and tests to be subscribed by those who possessed offices, civil, military and ecclesiastical, and this test was taken by Argyll. Soon after this he was committed to prison on a charge of high treason, but contrived to make his escape, and fled to Holland, where he resided during the remainder of Charles' reign. On the King's death in 1685, he came over to Scotland with the view of trying to preserve the civil and religious liberties of his country, in concert with the King's nephew, the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth.

But the expedition was abortive, and after in vain trying to effect a rising in the West of Scotland, Argyll fled in disguise, and being taken prisoner was carried to Edinburgh, where, in June 1685, he was beheaded. On the scaffold he displayed the same calmness as did his father, and before his death he made a short, serious, religious speech. Thus perished on the scaffold both the father and son, heads of the illustrious house of Argyll, victims of the baseness and ingratitude of two worthless monarchs, who displayed the same cynical indifference to the laws alike of God and man. The next holder of the title was Archibald, son of the preceding nobleman, who, for certain services performed, but probably more on account of what his father and grandfather had done for the cause of civil and religious liberty, was created in 1701 Duke of Argyll and Marquis of Lome.

His son was the celebrated John Duke of Argyll and Greenwich, a distinguished soldier, who served under Marl- ROSNEATH borough and contributed to the victories of Ramillies and Malplaquet. In January 1711, he was sent to Spain as ambassador, at the same time being appointed Commander-in-Chief of the English forces in that kingdom. His conduct as regards the Union between Scotland and England was peculiar, for in 1713, though only four years previously he had forwarded that great measure, he supported a motion in the House of Lords for its repeal. For a number of years the Duke held a high position as a patriotic nobleman and a soldier of renown, and the lines of Pope indicate his character — " Argyll, the State's whole thunder born to wield, And shake alike the Senate and the field." On his death, without male issue, in 1743, a fine monument was erected to his honour in Westminster Abbey, and he was succeeded in his Scotch title by his brother Archibald, third Duke of Argyll.

This Duke also entered the army, and served under Marlborough, being present at the battle of Sheriffmuir, where his elder brother, who was commander of the King's forces, defeated the followers of the Earl of Mar at the Jacobite rising in 1715. He held various im portant civil appointments — a Lord of Session and Privy Councillor for Scotland, Keeper of the Privy Seal, and Chancellor of the Univer sity of Aberdeen. He rebuilt the family seat at Inveraray, and was the confidential friend of Sir Robert Walpole. He had chief management of Scottish national affairs, besides being most attentive in furthering the trade and manufactures of his country. John, fourth Duke, was the son of the Honourable John Campbell of Mamore, on the Gareloch, and also was an officer in the British army. He was active on the royal side in the rebellion of 1715, and served in the war in Germany in 1744, besides being commander of the forces in the West of Scotland when the rebellion of 1745 broke out.

John, fifth Duke, was eldest son of the preceding, and became general in the army in 1778, and field marshal in 1796, and was first President of the Highland Society of Scotland. He married the widow of the Duke of Hamilton, who was one of the three beautiful Miss Gunnings, and their son, George William, became sixth Duke in 1806. Duke George was an amiable, much respected gentle man, and a good landlord, and dying in 1839 was succeeded by his brother, Lord John Campbell, who long resided at Ardencaple Castle, Row. He was thrice married, his second wife, Joan, heiress of John Glassel of Long Niddry, being the mother of the present Duke, George John Douglas Campbell, born in 1823. The Duke married in 1844 Lady Elizabeth, eldest daughter of the Duke of Sutherland, and their son, the Marquis of Lome, born in 1845, is the heir to the ancient title of Mac Chaillan Mor and head of the house of Argyll.

Some of the heads of the house of Argyll made Rosneath Castle their residence during part of the year, and with one, the famous Marquis, it was a favourite place of abode. Of him a contemporary historian wrote : " He was a man of singular piety, prudence, authority and eloquence ; and though he had been much envied and ROSNEATH 16 calumniated, yet his death did abundantly vindicate him." His widow continued to reside in the Castle, which he had rebuilt, and long was spared to be a blessing to the locality. Of this good lady it was written : " His noble lady, Lady Margaret Douglas, a lady of singular piety and virtue, bore the sad shock with other both personal and domestic afflictions, with great patience and incredible fortitude, giving herself always to prayer and fasting, and ministering to the necessity of the saints."