The Alps of Arabia. Travels in Egypt, Sinai, Arabia and the Holy Land

Preface

The following volume of travel treats of a land which has been described by some of the most distinguished authors of the present day, as well as by many an accomplished and enthusiastic explorer who has now reached that world ' from whose bourn no traveller returns.' In thus venturing to come after those whose works are read wherever literature has found a home, I may be per mitted briefly to mention how I chanced to form one of that ever-increasing band who have been attracted to the glowing East, with its days of dazzling sunshine and nights of dreamy repose. As I was early brought up to a most prosaic and matter-of-fact profession, which fully occupied my time, I had no opportunity of indulging a long cherished wish to visit the enchanted regions of the ' Arabian Nights,' until two years ago. An illness having caused a break in the continuity of my business career,

PREFACE.

VI I thought that a tour in the East would be a pleasant and profitable mode of passing a portion of my time. Accordingly I started on these travels, and can cordially recommend my readers to follow my example. In addition to the usual Nile trip, I would strongly advise a tour to Mount Sinai to be made, when the travellers can survey the profoundly interesting scenery which characterises the route of the Israelites after they left the land of bondage. If possible, and provided that they care to encounter the trouble, risk, and expense involved, the journey to Petra should be attempted. I assume, in this case, that the travellers have a certain amount of tact and coolness, most useful qualities if the lawless denizens of the capital of Edom are inclined to molest them. They must, however, be prepared for tedious delays and other unpleasant contingencies ; and if they go to Petra, the Eastern route, by the Wady el-Ithm, ought certainly to be selected.

One of the party should know something of geology, so that the remarkable and unique features of the rocks and mountains may be duly appreciated. The ensuing pages are based upon a careful record of each day's journey, that was kept by me in the form of a diary. Working upon these materials, which, however imperfect, were at all events written at the time and on

PREFACE.

VII the spot, it has been my aim to present an accurate and trustworthy narrative of Travel. The Bible Student may perchance distinguish a very few fitful gleams cast upon the boundless ocean of Truth contained in the inspired volume of Scripture. Those mighty depths assuredly will never be fathomed by mortal plummet ; but oh ! that the blessed time may soon come, when incense and a pure worship shall be offered unto the Lord from the rising to the setting sun, and the knowledge of God shall over spread the earth even as the waters cover the sea. W. C. Maughan. KlLARDEN R.SENEATH : October 8, 1873. CONTENTS

Chapter I. From Italy To Egypt

Brindisi to Alexandria— Journey to Cairo— Climate of Egypt— Expenses of Nile Trip by Dahabeah and Steamer— Particulars of Dahabeahs— Time to make the Voyage — Different Routes from Egypt to Holy Land — Expense of complete Tour in the East — Cost of Living per Day — Shepheard's Hotel Scene in Front of Hotel — Donkeys and their Attendants — Street Scenes, Cairo— Population of Cairo — View from Citadel— The Sights of Cairo The Pyramids — Pyramids of Sakkara and Serapeum — Memphis — Heliopolis and Obelisk — The Virgin's Well and Sycamore Tree — Museum at Boulac Palaces of the Viceroy — Shoubra Palace and Gardens — Oriental Luxury and Magnificence — Gezeereh Palace and Grounds — The Khedive His Mode of Government — His Extravagance — The Opera — The Horse Races, their Absurdity and pernicious Effect— Life in Cairo — Promenades and Amusements — The Viceroy's Political System 1

Chapter II. The Nile To Assouan

The Nile — Its rare Charms and Scenery — Our Passengers and Steamer — Scene at Starting — Requisites for a Voyage on the Nile — Pictures from Deck of Steamer— The Nile by Moonlight — Our Mode of Life — Benisooef, its Trade — Boats on River — Minieh and its Sugar Factory — Meeting the Viceroy — Tombs of Beni Hassan — Their great Age — Sioot and its Sights — Fine View from the Cliffs — Egyptian Pottery — School for Young Gentlemen — Birds seen on Banks — Machines for Irrigation, Shadoof, Sakia — Meeting with down Steamer — Lovely After-glow — Running on Sand-banks — Keneh and the Dancing Girls — Temple of Dendera — Grandeur of Remains— Portrait of CONTENTS X PAGE Cleopatra— Thebes and its Colossal Ruins — Luxor, its Obelisks— Karnak — The Great Hall— Vast Ruins— Scene by Moonlight — Luncheon in the Ruins — The 'Dinner Bell' — Meeting with Friends — Mustapha Aga — Temples on opposite Side of River — Medinet Habou — The Memnonium — Gigantic Statue of Rameses— Dean Stanley's Remarks on it — Meeting with Grand-Duke of Mecklenburgh— The Colossi of the Plain— Vocal Memnon — Tombs of the Kings, marvellous Interiors— Curious Drawings — View of the Plain of Thebes 25

Chapter III. The First Cataract To Cairo

Assouan — Scene on Landing — Dancing Girls — The Cataract — Ride to Philæ — Beautiful Ruins — View from Temple — Island of Elephantine — Homeward Voyage — Quarries of Silsillis —Mr. Gaze's Tourist Party — Deserted Look of Quarries — Esneh— Splendid Columns — Sightsin the Town — Coaling Steamer — The ' Southern Cross ' Constellation — Edfou — Grandeur of its Temple — Description of Interior — The Viceroy again — Road-making — Ruins of Abydus — Ancient Hieroglyphics — The famous Stone Tablet — Passing Memphis — Agreeable Excursion to examine the Ruins — Return to Boulac — Reflections on past Grandeur of Egypt — The Exodus of the Israelites . 57

Chapter IV. On The Track Of The Israelites To Sinai

Preparations for the Journey — Selecting a Dragoman — Their Terms — Our Dragoman — Achmet el-Fichawi — Provisions and Stores to take — Clothing and Books requisite — My Travelling Companions — Start from Cairo for Ismailia — The Grand-Duke again — Sights of Ismailia — Lake Timsah — Suez Canal — Its Dimensions — State of the Banks — Sail up the Canal — ■ Kantara — Arrival at Suez — Scenes in the Streets — Arab Festival — The Red Sea — View at Sunset — Entrance of Canal — Start for Sinai — Commencement of Desert — Stillness and Desolation — Ayun Musa Wells — Tent Life — Our Table-d'hote — The Desert by Moonlight — Early Start in the Morning — Wady Siidr — A Shower of Rain — Fountain of Marah — Charms of Desert Life — Wady Ghurundel, ' Elim ' of the Bible — Russian Pilgrims — Wady Taiyibeh —Precipitous Rocks — The Sea again — Plain of Murkh&h — Entrance of Wady Shellal — Strange Scenery — Sunday in Desert — Remarkable Gorge — Nukb Buderah — Jebal Gineh — French Turquoise Hunters — Wady Mokatteb — Its Sinaitic Inscriptions — Wady Feiran — Profound Desolation of the Wadys — CONTENTS XI PAOK Exception in case of Wady Feiran — Its Palm Trees — Ascent of Mount Serbal — Great Heat — Toilsome Nature of the Ascent — Extraordinary Grandeur of View from Summit — Impressions it produced on us — Former Ascents by Travellers — The Descent — Losing our Way — Wady esh-Sheikh —The ' Pass of the Winds '—First View of Mount Sinai— Plain of Rahah— Entrance to Convent 73

Chapter V. The Sacred Mountain And Its Convent

Description of Convent — Occupations of Monks — Chapels — Chapel of the Transfiguration — Its Interior — Old Mosaics — Relics of St. Catherine of Alexandria — Splendid Silver Sarcophagi — Chapel of Burning Bush — Library — Charnel House — The Garden, its Beauty — Discipline of Monks — Pilgrims and Travellers to the Convent — Ascent of Mount Sinai — Its Height — Fine View from Summit — The Sufs&feh and Horeb — Reflections on the Solemn Associations of the Spot — Mount St. Catherine — Impressive View of Sinai by Moonlight — Identification of Sinai with the Sacred Mountain as desscribed in the Exodus — Burckhardt — His Account of the Convent and Monks — Their Relations with the Bedawin — Description of Peninsula of Sinai — The Tribes — The Tawarah and Branch Tribes — Costume, Numbers and Character — Porter's Description of Marriage Customs — A truant Bride and pursuing Bridegroom — Our Experience of the Tawarah . . . 103

Chapter VI. Sinai To Akabah

Dragoman proposes to go to Petra — Our Difficulties on the Subject — Necessity for having Gold — A Banking Operation with the Monks — Good-bye to the Monks — The Campanile and peculiar Gong — Departure for Akabah — Wady esh-Sheikh — Tomb of Sheikh — Slow Progress of Arabs — Wady Sal — Fine Mountain View — Kibroth Hattaavah of the Israelites — Strange Character of Rocks — The 'Pilgrims' Mount' — Grand Scenery of Wady Ghuzaleh — Variety of Rocks — Hazeroth one of the Stations of the Israelites — Impression made by the Great Rocks — Wady el-Ain — Beautiful Crystal Spring — Magnificent Gorges — Death-like Stillness prevailing — Sight of the Gulf of Akabah — Description of Close of Day's Journey — The Camels, their strange Ways — Different Breeds — Cost of a Camel — Powers of Endurance — Reach the Gulf of Akabah — its Solitary Aspect — Beauty of its Shores — Rare Shells and Corals— Mode of Fishing with Net — Wonders of the Shore, and the Marine Architecture— Camping Ground by the Sea — Lovely Colouring CONTENTS PAGE on the Water — Meeting with our Messenger — Letter from Sheikh Mo hammed — Evening Sceno — Our Tawarah Attendants — Bathing in the Gulf — Sharks— Steep Pass — Island of Kureiyeh — Laborde's Visit to it — Well sted's Visit — His Description of Island and Ruins — Their Inaccessibility —Wady Tabah— Head of the Gulf and Glimpse of Akabah . . .126

Chapter VII. The Children Of The Desert

The Gulf of Akabah — Its History and Shores — The ancient Ezion-Geber — Nations who occupied it — Appearance of Town and Castle — Locusts — Description of Castle — The Mecca Caravan — Its Surroundings and the Pilgrims — Burckhardt's Account of Caravan — Our Arrival and Visitors — Preliminary Negotiations — Great Heat — Visit to the Governor — Arrival of the Sheikh and his Brothers — Our Conference as to Petra — Picturesqueness of the Scene — Cost of the Expedition — Heavy Backsheesh — Our Tawarah Escort leave us — The Bedawin — Their Characteristics — The Aenezes — Mode of Marching — Tents — Dress — Arms — Food — Mode of Receiving Guests — Industries — Religion of the Tribes — Marriage Customs — Divorces —Women — Their Hard Lot — Hospitality of the Bedawin — Principles of Government — The Sheikh — Arab Justice — Laws of Inheritance — Blood Revenge . . . . . . . . , . . . .158 CHAPTER Vin.

THE EASTERN ROUTE TO PETRA BY WADY EL-ITHM. Intense Heat at Akabah — Male and Female Palm-trees — Our Departure for Petra — Route of the Israelites — Wady Arabah — Entrance to Wady el-Ithm — Jebel Badry — Barren Character of Scenery — Ruined Fort — Curious Rocks — Fine Mountains in Distance — -Wady Hesmeh — Watershed — El-Guerrah — Departure of Sheikh Mohammed — The Alawin — Sunday in the Plain — Singular Remains of Temple — Sand Storm — Curious Chamber hewn in the Rock — Sinaitic Inscriptions — Great Ruins of Humeiyumeh — Description and Dimensions of some of Remains — Remarkable Fall in the Land and Gorges beyond — Storm of Wind and Rain — Old Well — Fine Turf — Mount Seir — Extraordinary Rocks and Clefts — Mount Hor — Reservoir for Water — Cold Temperature — Wonderful Colouring of Rocks near Petra — Wady Musa — Eljy — Description of Arabia Petræa — History of Idumea — The Horites — The Maccabees — The Nabatheans — The Romans — The Trade with India — The Crusaders — Re-discovery of Petra by Burckhardt — The Risks he ran — Other Travellers — Connection between Petra and Kadesh . CONTENTS XIII PAGE

Chapter IX. Petra

Entrance to Wady Musa — Tombs— The Sik Valley— Remains of Tombs- Extraordinary Character of the Defile — Wonderful Colouring of Rocks — Aqueduct for supplying Petra— First View of the Khuzneh — Its Exquisite Beauty — Description of the Monument — Sculptures and Friezes — The Theatre — Fine View from it — Meditation on Strangeness of the Scene — The Main Range of Tombs — Style of Decorations — Tints of the Rock— The Corinthian Tomb — Tomb with Three Tiers of Columns — Great Variety of and Extent of Tombs — Ruins of the City — Banks of the Stream — Pharaoh's Palace — Annoyance we suffered from Fellaheen — Danger of taking Relics from them — Return to our Camp — Crowds of Arabs — Their Angry Bearing — The Khuzneh again— Tumult among the Fellaheen — Anxious Night spent by us — Morning in Petra — Affairs smoothed over — Our March . resumed — The Acropolis and Tombs — Arrival of Principal Sheikh of Petra — We again Encamp for Night — El-Deir — Description of it — Extensive View — Object of the Structure— Our Guides disappear — Ibex Hunting — Return to Camp — The superior Appearance of our New Visitors — The Prince of Wales — Mount Hor — Aaron's Tomb — Reflections upon the Tombs and Ruins of Petra — Its Desolation and Ruin 208

Chapter X. Petra To Hebron

Final Departure from Petra — Sheikh not pleased — Very steep Descent to Wady Arabah — Doubtful Land — Decide to push on during Night — Stillness of our March— Ain el-Weibeh — Its Identity with Kadesh— Importance of Kadesh as a Station of the Israelites — Uninteresting Scenery — The Sufah Pass — Its Breakneck and Fatiguing Character — View from Summit of Pass — Approach to Holy Land — Reflections on Desert Tour — Meeting with Arabs — Another Moonlight March — Extreme Caution of our Movements — Enter Judæa — Entire Change in Character of Scenery — Beautiful Wild Flowers — Approach to Hebron — Lose our Way — Arrival at the Town — Valley of Eschol — Ancient Date of Town — Its History — Large Reservoirs — Jewish Lodging-house — Indifferent Cuisine — Cave of Macphelah — Glass Wor.._ — Departure of Alawin Escort — Start for Jerusalem— Abraham's Oak — Hill Country of Judæa — Pools of Solomon — Their great Size and massive Construction — Sight of Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomb — Convent of Mar Elias — First View of the Holy City — Emotions it caused us — Historical Retrospect CONTENTS

CHAPTER XL JERUSALEM.

PAGE Entrance to City— Look for Apartments — The Bishop of Jerusalem — Anglican Church and Worship — Other Services — Charitable Institutions — Population of Jerusalem — The Jews — Their Sects — The Christians — Greeks — Armenians — Latins — and other Sects — Tour of the City — Jaffa Gate — Christian Quarter — Damascus Gate — Mohammedan Quarter — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Pool of Bethesda — St. Stephen's Gate — Massive Walls — The Haram — Site of Solomon's Temple — The Golden Gate — Brook Kedron — Large Stones — Tombs in Valley of Jehoshaphat — Tyropœon Valley — Mount Zion — Lepers — Armenian Convent — Interior of Church — Pilgrims' Service — English Church — Via Dolorosa — Jews' Place of Wailing — Pool of Siloam — Tomb of Absalom — Garden of Gethsemane — Mount Moriah — Mosque of Omar — Description of Interior — Threshing-floor of Araunah — Mosque El- Aksa — Ride to Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Interior — The Manger — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Its History — Sights outside the Church — The Rotunda and Dome — The Sepulchre — Mount Calvary — Protestant Burying-ground — Tombs of the Kings — Mount of Olives — Chapel of the Princess De la Tour d'Auvergne — Tombs of the Prophets — Excursion to Jericho and Dead Sea — An Addition to our Party — Fine View of the Plains of Jordan — Large Number of Tents — The Plains of Jordan — The River — The Dead Sea — A Salt-water Bath — Great Influx of Water to the Lake — Ascend the Mountains — The Grave of Moses — Bethany .... 260

Chapter XII. Jerusalem To Damascus

Start from Jerusalem — Neby Samwil — Bethel — Hill Country of Benjamin — Ain Yebriid — The Robbers' Fountain — Sinjil — Shiloh — The Tabernacle set up here — Ancient Remains — Road to Nablous — Hawara — Plain of Shechem — View of Hermon — Ascent of Mount Gerizim — Site of Samaritan Temple —Samaritan Feast of the Passover — Origin of the Samaritans — Shechem — The Modern Nablous — Very Ancient Copy of the Pentateuch — Creed of the Samaritans — Jacob's Well— Deep Interest of this Spot — Enter the Town — Our Camping Place — Beautiful Gardens and Trees — Fine Situation of Nablous — Samaritan Synagogue — Visit from a Syrian Missionary — Account of his Work — Samaria — Its Situation and History — Sieges and Miraculous Events which took place — Church of St. John the Baptist — Remains of Herod's Temple — View from Samaria — Plain of Sharon — The 'Drowning Meadow ' — A Troublesome Chieftain — First View of Esdraelon — Jenin — The Great Plain of Esdraelon — Description and History — Scene of some of CONTENTS XV PAOE Israel's Momentous Conflicts— Grand Associations — Jezreel — Mount Carmel — Gilboa — Scene of the Death of Saul — Village of Shunem — Nain — Meet ing with Americans — Mount Tabor — Steep Ascent — Ruins on Summit — Noble View from Top of Mountain — Approach to Nazareth — Arrive at Town — New Protestant Church — Rev. Mr. Zeller — Sunday at Nazareth — Mount of Precipitation — Church of the Annunciation — Fountain of the Virgin — Pretty Jewish Maidens — Their Peculiar Costume — Extensive View from Nazareth — Visit from Rev. Mr. Zeller — Misgovernment by the Turks — Taxes and Tribute — Kefr Kenna, reputed Cana of Galilee — Scene of the Miracle — Horns of Hattin — First Sight of Sea of Galilee — Its deserted and lone Aspect — Description of Tiberias — Its History — Hot Springs — Camp near the Lake — Stroll through the Town — Jewesses sewing — Journey along Shores of the Lake — Exquisite Beauty of the Flowers — Magdala — Sites of Capernaum, Bethsaida, and Chorazin — Khan Minyeh identified with Caper naum — Beautiful Fountain — Khan Jubb Yusuf — Last View of Galilee — Wild Flowers — Storks — The Jordan and Lake Huleh — Ain Mellahah — Heavy Rain — Hills of Kadesh Naphtali — Buffaloes Ploughing — The Lark — Soldiers' Tents — Cross the Jordan — Tell el-Kady — One Source of the Jordan — Dan — Its History — English Park Scenery — Arrival at Banias — Interesting Ruins of Cæsarea Philippi — Main Source of the Jordan — His tory of Banias — Castle of Subeibeh — Its Immense Size and Strength — Fine View on the Upper Plains of Jordan and Lake Huleh — Handsome Druse Girls — Ascend Shoulder of Hermon — Er-Ram — View of Part of Plain of Damascus and the Hauran — Beit Jenn — The River Pharpar — Kefr Hauwar — Artuz — Richness of the Gardens and Foliage near Damascus — Entrance to the City 286