A Glimpse of the Gold Fields, being notes of a trip to Moodie's ... Reprinted from the 'Natal Mercury.'

Preface

. These collected notes of a trip from Natal to some of the Transvaal Gold Fields have been sent to press " with all their imperfections on their head " in response to a public demand which made itself apparent during their progress as separate contributions to The Natal Mercury. They do not assume to form a complete guide to the au_*iferous regions of South- Eastern Africa from either an historical or a technical point of view : such an expanded and interesting work has yet to be written. Until it is, " The G old Regions of South-Eastern Africa," from the pen of the lale Thomas Baines, and published by Stanford, of London, will remain the unrivalled text-book on the sub ject which it so earnestly treats. At a time when the attention alike of the English investor and the practical gold miner is being more and more drawn to this part of the world as a field for the employment of capital or labour, these notes may help to throw light on some points not yet clear to either.

When they were pencilled it was with no view of their experiencing more than the usual ephe meral existence of newspaper matter, and under the circumstances of their early disposal into printed sheets for more permanent publication, no opportunity occurred for giving them the revision they could well have borne. If a word were needed to [explain their general crude ness it is to be found here. Although every effort has been made to guard against them, it is only too probable that inac curacies involving personal interests may have crept into the jottings. If any such errors of omission or commission have been further promulgated through the promptness with which the publishers have issued this handbook, the writer, if his attention is called to them, will do all in his power to correct them.

On the eve of the brochure being handed to the public, a case in point occurs. During the short period the writer was in Swazieland, he heard for the first time the rumour that the Swazies claimed as being within their border the farm known as Moodie's, On which the miners were at work. On his V further journeyings he heard this rumour developing into a positive statement as to its foundation in fact, and he thought it right to publish some record of the theories on the point of such responsible men as he could meet. One of these was Dr. Somershield, a gentleman well ac quainted with the locality, and one having a strong fixed opinion on what from his showing seemed an uusettled question. In the course of his utterances, which the writer is sure Transvaalers will agree with him were entitled to respect, Dr. Somer shield spoke of Mr. Loveday's most useful map of the Lydenburg Gold Fields as unreliable so far as it showed the Swazie boundary at some parts.

Mr. Loveday has written to The Natal Mercury denying the truth of Dr. Somershield's contention, and saying that in a future communication to the same paper he will deal with the subject in extenso. The matter is thus left for the present between Mr. Loveday, Dr. Somer shield, and the public : but it was thought only fair to the first-named gentleman that this much should appear in this compilation. The Author Durban, July, 1884. HUNTED AT THE NATAL MERCURY GENERAL STEAM -J.H.ESS. Jl ta Jxoobie's. On board the S.S. Lady Wood, near the Sordwana River, May 5, 1884. Off to the Gold Fields ! Somewhat suddenly I find myself one of a party composed of all sorts and conditions of men bound for El Dorado. The land of Ophir has at last been discovered, and every man Jack of us on board has already a fortune in the palm of his hand.

It is'nt a question of the fortune ; it is how it is to be spent that troubles some of the deck cogitators as they sit prefiguring the future. For some days the moral poise of Durban had been disturbed by the golden accounts from Moodie's Reef ; the gold fever was raging and there was danger of it sapping the commercial health of the community. The only medicine which seemed likely to be of any service in the grave crisis, was some reliable intelligence from the centre of all the sensation. This you have sent me to get. I may have pleasant truths to tell ; it may be my duty to call your attention to unpleasant facts. I can only assure my readers that whatever they may read from me about the Gold Fields they may rely on. " I can't say no fairer nor that," as our old friend Artemus Ward says.

So far I cannot see why this should not be the popular route to the field's ; at any rate for the next month or two. There will be no scarcity of steamers ; besides this handy boat there are the Imerina, TDunkeld and Union to ring the changes on. A glance at the map will show the immense saving of time the sea route offers. Even as the crow SAILING POSTPONED. flies across Zululand it must be a good 350 miles from Durban to Moodie's, and it is a three weeks' trek in any ease. The coasting steamer runs you up in two days, and the road to Moodie's is then variously estimated at from GO to 100 miles. I learn there is a bridle path considerably shorter than the wagon road, but this I will give you more precise information about hereafter. The Lady Wood was timed to leave the wharf at three o'clock on Saturday afternoon.

But it was coming it rather strong from the south east, and Capt. Ballard is inexorable. And besides as Captain Turner gaily "says, " better stay another night in port than get all wet without making head way outside." Some stay till the morning. It was rather a pity, as rather a biggish crowd had assembled, and we could have gone off with a fine splash. There was a little excitement over the shipping of a horse ; the box containing the animal was swung aboard in most excellent style. '* Sailing postponed till 7 a.m." was chalked up on the funnel-box in best copy-book fashion, and everybody scattered for the dav. The wisdom of waiting is manifested next morning, when wind and sea have fallen, and punctually at seven we steam out. Just before going we hear that a syndicate of Natal's capitalists has bought Moodie's farms at a long figure.

Most are pleased to know of this evidence -of confidence in the richness of the country whose secrets we are bound to expose ; but there is just a whisper of speculation as to how this will affect the status of the diggers. Old and young knights of the pickaxe declare that no company will ever work Moodie's Reef, and the facility with wliich the question is disposed of by careless hints at powder and shot remind us of what tragic* things are often done in the the service of Mammon. I may say I did not hear NEW 8 WANTED. one murmur at the proposal to pay fair diggers' licences. There is a great deal of fair play in rough humanity, but one need not moralise here. We are now engaged in disputing with Ben Jouson as to where the ancient kingdom of the lovesick queen was, and each in his heart says Here's the rich Transvaal And there within, sir, arc the golden mines, Great Solomon's Ophir.

It was only another proof of the profound interest which the late news from the Gold Fields has evoked in Durban, that when the Lady Wood left the wharf on Sunday morning* at seven the quajshould have been thickly fringed for a long way with townspeople and Point folk assembled to send the diggers on their way with a parting cheer. It was a lovely fresh morning. The sunlight danced among the gentle wavelets of the harbour, and the hopes of all that at last the golden age had dawned were oft expressed. Let us trust that the fabric will not be too cruelly shattered. Friend shook hand with friend, and fervently averred he but waited the word from his departing companion to follow him to the land of gold. " Send us the news sharp " was the cry as we let go. '* Goodbye and good luck " and " Hamba Kahli " as we got further out, and when Capt. Turner, cool as a cucumber, at the wheel and quietly giving his orders down the pipe to the engine room, had got us into a fair way for the bar, we had a good British " Hip, hip.

Hurrah " from shore. We are very mixed races on board, and that may have accounted for the feebleness of the response. We take the bar in gallant style, and we see the Union runs up flags of farewell as we plunge forward into the swell left by the rough weather. We pitch alxrat for a bit, and the time has arrived for OUR LIVINO FREIGHT. another verification of what the cynic Tally - rand — or was it Rochefoucauld— says " therois something not altogether displeasing in the misfortunes of our friends." Hardier mortals who laugh at mal de mer now indulge in mild jeering at less favoured brothers who are exhibiting what might pass for a most eager anxiety to ascertain the exaat colour of the water through which we are ploughing. They are a long time in satisfying themselves as to the shade, but later in the day they seem to have made up their minds about it.

And what about some poor dogs htshed to the bulwarks ? Some howl piteously, and but for their chains would jump overboard and swim to the land towards which they are casting longing eyes. Others sit mutely on their haunches imploring the tribute of a sym- I>athetic sigh, and the saliva dripping in strings from their mouths speaks of an anguish too deep for howls. We are a motley crowd on board; about 50 Europeans and 50 natives. You know our tonnage, and will hardly understand how we all get stowed away. 133 gross is the figure, and we have 100 feet in length, and 20 feet beam. There is a mysterious region below called the fore-cabin. This is lined with bunks, and a tew seek the smelly seclusion which they grant. That is all I know about that place. In the forehold natives have curled themselves up to sleep, and some of them will only wake up when told they are at their destination.

Those who want a healthy night's rest wrap themselves up in their blankets and sleep 'neath " the shilent shtars ; " but the red glow of some pipes shows that some have found comfort in hammocks. The bridge, too, is a favourite place for flinging your blanket round you, and dreaming the dreams of the gold-seeker. Besides this hundred human beings, and the dogs, and the horse mentioned before, there are at the prow two patient pack asses to be used nobody's dog. 5 for the fields. These hold silent contention with three sheep for six square feet of space. Some of the half-hundred natives crowd the deck forward, and ship themselves away in a most remarkable manner. The captain says they are the best freight one can get. They pay their 18s., and claim nothing but water and room to squat. Some bring half-a-dozen threepenny loaves skewered on a stick, and others nothing ; but between them all they manage to exist through the voyage.

They were in luck's way this time though. A sheep died just before we started, and there was rejoicing forward among the natives, as they got the carcase. How is it natives are never sea-sick? Some of your debating societies might tell us. As we are going in the direction of the land of the wise king, I may as well tell you of a modern instance of Solomon's judgment which has come under my notice. Speaking of the kafirs and their dogs, Capt. Turner told me that invariably at Delagoa Bay the natives forswear ownership of their pets. This is to avoid paying their passage fares, which of course is very wrong. The captain cures the evil thus. All the kafirs are passed before him and each says he does not own a dog. This clone, a ship's native is told in Zulu to tie all the dogs together and throw them overboard.

The owners at once step out and pay the five shillings for their animals. Away down in the hold, and its not very far away either, are seven mules packed among the goods like sardines. They are stood alongside each other wedged in, and as they all sway together with the ship, they look like one big broad mule with seven heads and seven tails. But the monster does not seem to mind his queer quarters at all. So much for the live stock on board. The fortj* or fifty men we have are without excep tion bound for the Gold Fields. They are literally of all ages. I share the one little deck YELLOW FEVEP. cabin, which by-the-way is nice anil handy to the boiler in case of a burst up, with a [pleasant, cheerful lad of 17. He is the son of a Point landing agent, and after having roughed it in Australia is now away with a pal or two and a dolly crusher to rake it in at the Gold Fields.

The seventh and last stage of manhood is here also. One aged party, bent nearly double and a fitter subject for gruel at the cottage fireside than the coarse hfe we have already commenced, says he* has dug all his life and will go on doing it. Thus we have the diggers' saying verified, " Once a digger, always a digger." I thought this old man still looking for gold in the ground afforded a stern lesson to the im pulsive youth who abandons fair commercial prospects in the vain attempt to escape the pri meval curse. Possibly he will believe no teacher but experience, ancl the sooner he gets his lesson the better. The professional digger is aboard, and a quiet purposeful look he has. The marks of the strife too are upon him as scarcely halting by the way he runs in the fierce race for wealth.

We have a lot of well known faces on board too. They will be missed from the Point ; but who knows? it may not lie for long. At present they would want a good figure for the claims that are to be theirs. We shall see how it all turns out. All sorts and conditions of men are here, as I said be fore. Soldiers and sailors, bricklayers ancl carpenters, engineers and diggers, loafers and loungers are all herding together. I could not give you a better idea of the strength of the Point contingent than by telling you that there is always a fresh baud ready to take a turn at the wheel. Captain Turner knows his men, and there they are all day steering their own bark to the Gold Fields. Most of the men on board are fairly equipped with tools and pro visions, but I fancy I see some who have risked their luck without one or the other.

Their fate LOOKING for gold. is assuredly sealed ; they have scarcely a shilling to buy food now, and it is uncomfortable to think of what awaits them. It would almost be well if diggers collectively passed a law to keep vagrants off the fields. The German tongue is a good deal spoken among the pas sengers. I had a talk with one intelligent young man from the Fatherland. He has roamed about the Gold Fields since 1881 looking for the right place, and he — like Baines by the way— -thinks the great fields are much further to the north than anything struck yet. I tell you things as I find them, and he simply laughs at the latest reports sent down from Moodie's. He says he knows some very smart fellows at Moodie's. and that it will be found that they will now not be difficult to persuade to part with their claims.

He admits he has not lately heard anything direct from the fields ; but declares 14 and 15 oz. a day per man to be unadulterated nonsense. He says he was six weeks at Moodie's last year, and there was nothing doing then. He does not say there have been no good finds ; but he thinks 2 oz. a day would make Moodie's a very rich reef. He does not go on there, but strikes off to the north prospecting. A good stamp of man* for the fields is a young engineer, who was drawing his _£35 a month at Kimberley. I hear from him that a Moodie's c-laimliolder, Jeffries, is getting a water-wheel of 25 feet diameter made at Deakin & Cradock's. It will cost _£500, and suppose another =£500 before it is fitted up, so here is the usual counterbalancing report. But we shall soon see for ourselves what's actually doing.

We have had a splendid run up. We have been towing a lighter, but yesterday we were doing 8 knots all day, thanks to a pair of fine engines and a favourable current. The lighter is the first instalment of landing plant sent up to Delagoa Bay by a Point landing agent. We WAR REMINISCENCES. are sure this trip, then, to get ashore sharp. Last run it was two days till lighters could be spared to land passengers. To-day we have a bit of a head wind and a current against us, sc our speed is down. We were off the TJmvoti by noon yesterday, and 1.30 saw us passing the mouth of the Tugela. With a glass we made out Fort Pearson, and saw in imagination all the other land-marks of the war among the bills of Zululand. The change in the character of the country after leaving Natal is very marked from sea.

Our colony looks along the coast almost like a level plain when contrasted with "The Reserve," with its range upon range of hills and wild-looking passes. Away to the right we see the two conical-looking hills, between which hes Etshowe, and naturally enough the talk runs on the Zulu war. Our gallant skipper was one of the volunteers who left Pearson alone in such glory as he got at Etshowe, and at feeding time I find myself conversing with the man who was the first to find the body of the late Prince Imperial. He was one of the men in the corps raised by Capt. Bettington, himself now dead, if I remember aright, on the West Coast of Africa. At five o'clock we are abreast of Tenedos shoal where we are reminded of another Zulu war incident. H.M.S, Tenedos got on the shoal, and H.M.S. Active went to her assistance and got on too.

They both got off ultimately. In another half hour we pass " the occasional landing known as Port Durnford " as the chart has it. It is almost ludicrous to remember how this " landing" was, no landing place for the hero of Telel Kebir. I think it was in H.M.S. Shah that Sir Garnet Wolseley rushed up here from Durban and got nearly dro mntd in his attempt to defy Neptune in a cross wood that day. You will remember that he got back to Durban in double-quick time, and getting a brake and six, and Dalgety on the box, spanked MEALS ON DECK. off along the coast road to the Tugela. I was at Stanger when the turn-out dashed up to Knox's, and being the latest arrival from the front, was questioned as to the state of affairs. I reported that the natives of the border guard were murmuring against the order to go into the Zulu country as carriers for the military, whereon the champagne and sherry man said he " would drive them in at the point of the bayonet."

Let us be devoutly thankful that nothing of the sort was done. Sir Garnet started from Stanger in the gathering darkness, with spruce Brackenbury and others of the select circle holding two candle lanterns ; but the battle of Ulundi was fought and won without him, and a reputation saved. Life on board the Lady Wood has not much " incident " about it. Most of the time is spent in spying the land, and at stated periods all hands are mustered to feed. This process taxes the capacity of the cook, but he gets out of his trial all right. The couple of score of men are not nice, and the plain but plentiful viands disappear fast. Meals are served on deck. One batch sit down at a ledge level with the top of the bulwarks, and they have to keep an eye on the grub or it might bolt from their sight. A cheese and a pepper box will do a waltz together to the side of the ship, but they are generally stopped from going overboard.

A hat occasionally flies where it will never be any more use to the owner, but this is the sauce for the rough-and-ready life you are going through. Breakfast is served at 80' clock, dinner at 12.30, and " tea " at 4.30. Think of that ye pampered minions of the " Royal." The soup is good though, and if you take up your plate like little Oliver you can get a second or a third helping, which was more than he did. After " tea " last evening the inevitable concertina was brought out, and some tunes, including "Grandfather's Clock," and " Auld Lang HOMEWARD BOUND. Syne," were played. Notwithstanding this it was a quiet peaceful Sunday evening. O'Neill Peak, a curious conical mark, was passed at 8, Black Bluff at 9, Cape St. Lucia at 11, St. Lucia Bay at midnight, aud Cape Vidal at 3 a.m. To-day we have had a bit of a head wind, but we are steaming along bravely.

The coast, about a mile off, is now most monotonous, sand hills and bush, and bush ancl sand hills for a hundred miles. We passed Sordwanda Bay at noon, and about three this afternoon we have seen the only well-defined landmark to-day ; this is Black Rock, which looks not unlike the Bluff cave at a distance. We are now (4.30) passing the Kosi River, which looks like a big inland bay on the chart. We expect to make Cape Iuyack shortly after midnight, and shall probably anchor there till daylight, steaming up the twenty-five miles of Delagoa Bay to Lourengo Marques by 9 a.m. It is easy to see that a large portion of our living freight is homeward and not outward bound. Within the past hour or two a shout from this or that native has proclaimed that a well-known spot has been recognised. While I am writing, two native lads are pointing eagerly to different parts of the coast and ges ticulating with a wild joy all their own, and another two are holding on by the rigging and crooning over some old song, keeping measured time with their slowly stamping feet.

One in the fulness of his heart has just said that if the captain will stop the steamer and put him on shore he will give him three shillings, The rest are lying about, mere bundles of humanity, taking the home-comhig more philosophically. Many of these natives are returning from work on the Diamond Fields, and the Kimberley shareholders may well shake in their shoes if the Gold Fields shut out the labour market which we have been running alongside all day. It is said that these natives manage to take AN OUTLET FOR DIAMONDS, home with them a fair supply of diamonds. I am credibly informed that round about Delagoa Bay a vast number of stolen diamonds are planted about at the different kraals. I have been trying my hand at a little amateur I.D.B. — only, of course, to test the truth of what I am telling you — but without success.

Your cute Kimberley native never saw a stone of any sort, and his face is an expanse of Ethiopian denseness at the bare mention of the gems. If so many pilfered diamonds are finding an outlet in this direction, the traffic will be detected if they are turned into native currency. For a long time round about Delagoa Bay kafir picks have been the currency ; I think it is 120 for a wife. The picks are stored at the kraals to all time. You will remember Sekukuni offering a small box of diamonds for a cannon. An attempt was made to get one through Delagoa Bay, but it failed. Kosi River looks a fine place to explore and a native has just told me that he has found gold there. The only striking incident of the voyage to-day is that the seven-headed mule clown below attacked three bags of flour, and pretty well got through the contents.

Mark Twain says a mule behaves well for six months in order to tempt you to get near enough to him to kick you. M. T. is a fraud. A fine moonlight night, and all preparing for the march to the interior to-morrow. May 6, 7 a.m. We are now steaming through Delagoa Bay to Lourengo Marques. The head wind which kept before us yesterday dodged us all last night ; so as there would have been little satis faction in riding at anchor in rough water, the engines were put at half-speed, and we took it easy all night. Thus it is we have not stopped. It was a fine moonlight night, and the run up the coast of Inyack Island was in- JACK OF TATI. terestiug. At three o'clock the moon dipped down behind the port we are bound for. We kept out to sea five miles, rounding Cape Inyack, and caught a stiff breeze from the east, seas breaking over the bows and waking up the natives.

The live stock got drenched too. The dogs look in the last stage of self-abasement ; the donkeys are most de jected like, and the one sheep left looks as if it. would not object to be off to the happy hunting grounds after its companions, whose heads are dangling from the rigging before it. One or two of the roystering would-be-diggers look rather the worse for wear, too. One man, who shall be nameless, has not been aide to with stand the unusual luxury of having some sove reigns in his pocket. He has been liquoring up a good deal, as you will believe when I tell you that up to last night, from the time of starting, his orders from the steward reached two dozen of large bottles of beer, and three bottles of gin. Of course his " friends " help him to melt the money. I hope he will not meet the same fate as Jack of Tati fame.

Jack was a miner well known on the Tati Gold Fields. He lived by himself in a hut, and went in for very heavy debauches. One night he went to sleep, leaving a candle lit on a full keg of blasting powder. When the candle burnt down the keg blew up, and there was very little left of either hut or man. His friends wishing to give Jack decent burial, collected such pieces of him as thev could find and put them in a box. They even went so far as to give strings of beads to natives who might bring in a piece of Jack from a distance. It was a big box the}- put the remains in, and they were gratified to find that the pieces came in rather freely. But when they found they had about four hundred weight of pieces they suspected something was wrong. They put enquiries on foot and found that they have been giving strings of beads for In ■J A PLACE TO LEAVE. pieces of goats' flesh, brought from afar off by the natives.

Who says the native is not as cute as the white man ? As the sun rose this morning we could see what a fine natural harbour we were running into. On the one side is the north coast of the island of Inyack, not unlike our Bluff, Cape Inyack being the point ; while on the other land is scarcely visible. We have kept well out, and are running through Cockburn Chan nel just now, Lourengo Marques being twenty miles off yet. The natives are overjoyed, and are loud in their exclamations of delight. Some of them are crowding at the bows, strain ing their eyes as if to bring the land nearer, while one keeps shouting in his own language, "Ha-ow! ha-ow ! is not this really the country of my mother ?" I find my horse has to go ashore in a rather primitive fashion ; that is he has to swim for it, being guided to shore by me in a dingy.

If I can manage to supplement this letter from Lourengo Marques I shall do so ; but it is early in the day, and I shall try to be a fair distance up-country by sundown. Lourengo Marques, May 6. We lowered anchor at 10 o'clock, and after some delay got pratique. This is not an in viting place to remain in. Everybody seems on the sick list, and you will not wonder that we are all anxious to be on the road. We ex pect to start this afternoon ; that is the Lady Wood's company have split themselves into about half a dozen bands, and are making final preparations to be away t< > the fields. I observed a very ragged down-at-the-heels cus tomer wanting to fasten himself on to oue of the parties. He said he had just come down from Moodie's, and that the finds were not nearly so good as they had been first reported to be.