A Polar Reconnaissance, being the voyage of the 'Isbjörn' to Novaya Zemla in 1879 ... With maps and illustrations

Front matter

A POLAR RECONNAISSANCE By the same Author. Fourth and Cheaper Edition. THE GREAT FROZEN SEA. A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF THE ALERT DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. With six full-page Illustrations, two Maps, and twenty-seven Woodcuts. Crown Svo. Cloth, price 6s. "We have particular satisfaction in calling our readers' a tention to Captain Markham's pleasant and nicely illustrated little book." — Popular Science Review. London : C. Kegan Paul & Co., 1, Paternoster Square. GROUP ON BOARD " ISRJOKNE A POLAR RECONNAISSANCE BEING THE VOYAGE OF THE "ISBJORN" TO NOVAYA ZEMLYA IN 1879 BY ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S. (captain-, royal navy) II 77'// MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON C. KEGAN PAUL & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.') TO MY FRIEND SIR HENRY GORE BOOTH, Bart., I DEDICATE THIS NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE OF THE " ISBJORN," IN PLEASANT REMEMBRANCE OF OUR COMPANIONSHIP IN THE ARCTIC SEAS.

Preface

. The narrative of the voyage of the Isbjorn was written soon after Captain Markham's return from his polar reconnaissance, but his employment on active service prevented him from seeing the sheets through the press.* In presenting the narrative, with its introductory historical chapters to the public, it will be well to give some account of Captain Markham's previous Arctic work, and of the conclusions to which his experience and re searches have led him. Albert Markham has been a volunteer for Arctic service, and has taken a keen interest in northern discovery, ever since the year 1865, when Sherard Osborn's memorable papers stirred the hearts of all the active young spirits in our navy. But it was not until 1873 that he was offered his first chance of gaining a knowledge of ice navigation.

In promoting the despatch of an expedition of * He is now in the Pacific, in command of H. M.S. Triumf h, bearing the flag of Rear-Admiral Stirling. \ Read at the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society on January 23, 1865.

PREFACE.

. VIII discovery, Admiral Sherard Osborn considered it desirable that a naval officer should proceed to the Arctic regions in a whaler, and return with a full report of all he had seen and experienced. He selected, for this service, Commander A. H. Mark ham, who made a cruise in the whaler Arctic, from May to August, 1873, acquiring a knowledge of ice navigation in Davis Strait, Baffin Bay, Barrow Strait, Prince Regent Inlet, and the Gulf of Boothia. The publication of his account of this whaling cruise * was useful, because it helped to arouse public interest in Arctic work. The narrative was preceded by an introduction from the pen of Admiral Sherard Osborn, and it concluded with the memo randum of the Royal Geographical Society's Com mittee on the scientific results of Arctic exploration.

When the Arctic expedition of 1875 was de termined upon, Albert Markham was appointed Commander of H. M.S. Alert, under Sir George Nares. The object of the Council of the Geogra phical Society, in procuring the despatch of this expedition, was the discovery of the portion of the unknown polar region which could be reached from * " A Whaling Cruise to Baffin's Bay and the Gulf of Boothia, and an account of the rescue of the crew of the Polaris, by Albert Hastings Markham, F.R.G.S., Commander R.N., with an Intro duction by Rear-Admiral Sherard Osborn, R.N., C.B." (1874). 8vo, pp. 310. Map and illustrations. Second edition (1875), small 8vo, pp. 307.

PREFACE.

. IX the direction of Smith Sound. That important object, with all the valuable scientific results em braced by it, was fully attained. During 1875-76, Albert Markham, under the able lead of Sir George Nares, added to his polar knowledge by the ex perience of two seasons in the intricate channels leading from Smith Sound, and among the stu pendous ice floes of the polar sea beyond. He also became a practised sledge traveller both in autumn and spring, and amidst difficulties of no ordinary kind, he planted the Union Jack on the most northern point ever reached by man. These services were rewarded by his promotion to post rank, and were also recognized by the presentation to him of a gold watch by the Royal Geographical Society. Captain Markham's work, " The Great Frozen Sea," * is a history of this most successful expedition, and especially of the noble endurance and terrible sufferings of his gallant sledge crews.

On his return from the expedition of 1875-76, Captain Markham gave close attention to the ques- * "The Great Frozen Sea ; a Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the Alert during the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, by Captain Albert H. Markham, R.N. (late Commander of H. M.S. Alert)." 8vo, pp. 440. Maps and illustrations (1878). Second edition, small 8vo, C. Regan Paul and Co. (1880), pp. 384. In con nection with this expedition Captain Markham also published a biographical notice of Hans, the Eskimo hunter and dog-driver, entitled, "An Ice Hero." See Good IVords for February, 1880, p. 88, and April, 1880, pp. 269.

PREFACE.

. X tion of the best route for future polar discovery. There are certain Arctic canons which he had learnt from such men as Sherard Osborn, and which were fully confirmed by his own knowledge and experience. One is that, in order to penetrate far into the unknown region, it is necessary to find a coast line trending northwards with a western aspect. The second is that, although much may be done by a vessel during a summer cruise, a winter in the ice, and the employment of extended sledge parties, are essential to the full attainment of the various scientific results of exploration. With these rules as his guides, Captain Markham diligently pursued his study of the subject. Some of the results of his investigations are embodied in his work entitled "Northward Ho!""::" which is a monograph of voyages that have had specially for their object the discovery of the North Pole.

Captain Markham also edited, for the Hakluyt Society, the voyages and nautical works of John Davis, the Elizabethan navigator, with notes and an introduction.! * " Northward Ho ! (including a narrative of Captain Phipps's Expedition by a Midshipman) by Captain Albert H. Markham, R.N." Small 8vo, pp. 347 (1879). t " The Voyages and Works of John Davis the Navigator ; edited, with an Introduction and Notes, by Albert H. Markham, Captain R.N., F.R.G.S.," pp. xcv. and 392 (Hakluyt Society, 1880).

PREFACE.

. XI His matured conclusion is that the west coast of Franz Josef Land offers the best route for future polar discovery. The great question, therefore, was whether there was a reasonable prospect of success fully navigating the ice-laden space known as the Barents Sea in ordinary years, so as to reach the desired land where discovery would commence. To decide this point, it Was necessary that knowledge should be accumulated by voyages of reconnaissance. Several had already been made by Lieutenant Payer in 1872, and by various Norwegian captains. In 1878 the Dutch explorers De Bruyne and Koolemans Beynen undertook an important voyage during which they traversed the Barents Sea. Captain Markham proceeded to Amsterdam in October, 1878, to welcome them on their return, and to receive from his friend Beynen a detailed account of the nature of the ice on the route to Franz Josef Land.

He published an account of the Dutch expedition of 1878, with a preliminary narrative of former Dutch achievements in the Northern Seas, in Good JVoi'ds for February, March, and April, 1878.* At length an opportunity offered for a personal * " The Dutch Flag in the Northern Seas, by Albert H. Markham." Good Words, Part I., February, 1878, p. 90 ; Part II., March, 1879, p. 172; Part III., April, 1879, p. 244. Map and illustrations.

PREFACE.

. examination of the ice in the Barents Sea during the navigable season, and Captain Markham eagerly accepted the proposal of Sir Henry Gore Booth, to accompany him to the Arctic regions in the little Norwegian cutter Isbjorn. The following pages contain a narrative of the voyage of the Isbjorn, during which the west coast of Novaya Zemlya, the Matyushin Shar, and the shores of the Kara Sea were visited ; the British flag was hoisted, for the first time, to the north of Novaya Zemlya ; and a push was made northwards in the ice between Novaya Zemlya and Spitzbergen. The preliminary chapters give an account of all previous voyages of discovery that have been made in this direction. The chapter on the work of Russians in Novaya Zemlya will be new to most English readers. In his concluding chapter, Captain Mark ham passes all the experience that has been acquired in review, and carefully sums up the evidence.

He was indefatigable in collecting specimens in natural history and geology on every occasion that offered, and the Appendix consists of a report on the plants he collected, by Sir Joseph Hooker, with a catalogue of them by Professor Oliver ; a note on his collection of birds by Captain Feilden ; and reports on his collections of Crustacea by Mr. Miers, of mollusca by Mr. Edgar Smith, of echinodermata

PREFACE.

. XIII by Mr. F. Jeffrey Bell, of fishes by Dr. Giinther, of insects by Mr. McLachlan, and of rocks and fossils by Mr. Etheridge. Captain Markham was fully confirmed, by this polar reconnaissance, in the opinion that Franz Josef Land could be reached in a steamer, in an average season, during August and September ; and that the western coast of that land was the best route for future polar discovery. In a small sailing vessel little could be done, but he was convinced that a steamer could, in most years, easily reach and explore the coast of Franz Josef Land. The correctness of Captain Markham's views has been fully confirmed by Mr. Leigh Smith, in the very next navigable season. That able and intrepid yachtsman caused a suitable steamer to be built at Peterhead during the winter of 1879-80, which he named the Ezra* and he sailed from that port on June 29, 1880.

Nothing could be done to the north of Spitzbergen, so Mr. Leigh Smith wisely bore up for the Barents Sea. The Ezra reached the pack ice in 77° 14' N. on August 6th. On the 14th land was sighted, and Mr. Leigh Smith, during the last half of August, discovered 105 miles of the south-western coast of Franz Josef * The Eira is a steam vessel of 350 tons gross register, 125 feet long by 25 feet b'eam, and 50 horse-power. She had a crew of 25 souls all told.

PREFACE.

. XIV Land, rounded the extreme western point, and ascertained that the land trended northwards with a westerly aspect. He landed at several places, and found that there were anchorages with good shelter and holding ground, where a steamer could wait for opportunities to pass northwards. Leaving Franz Josef Land on August 30th, no difficulty was experienced in proceeding south along the edge of the pack, and Hope Island was sighted on the 10th of September. This most important voyage completely estab lishes the fact that the west coast of Franz Josef Land can be reached in ordinary seasons. Here, therefore, is the route for future polar discovery. Here an advanced base may be established within the unknown region, whence scientific results of the utmost interest will be secured : and here the nearest approach to the North Pole can be made.

It is the wish nearest to Captain Markham's heart that he may have contributed his mite, usefully and serviceably, towards securing the resumption, by Englishmen, of the glorious work of north polar discovery on an adequate scale. Clements R. Markham, Secretary R. G. S. 21, Eccleston Square, S.W. November, 1880. CONTENTS. CHAPTEK ... tACE I. Introductory ... ... ... ... ... ... i II. Early English Voyages to the North-East 9 III. Early- Dutch Voy-ages to the North-East ... .. 22 IV. Russian Discoveries in Noyaya Zemly-a ... ... 39 V. ■ Norwegian Explorers in Novay'A Zemlya. The Rosenthal Voyages and English Vachts.men ... ... 65 VI. Austro-Hungarian, Swedish, and Dutch Expeditions in Modern Times ... ... ... ... 77 VII. The "Isbjorn" ... ... ... ... ... 96 VIII. First Da\-s at Sea ... ... ... ... 119 IX.

Nameless Bay... ... ... ... ... ... 134 X. The Matyushin Shar ... ... ... ... 159 XI. First Attempt to push North frustrated ... 1S0 XII. The Kara Sea ... ... ... .. ... 207 XIII. Baffled in the Kara Sea ... ... ... ... 230 XIV. Meeting with the "YVii.lem Barents" ... ... 251 XV. Northward Ho! and Homeward Bound ... ... 278 XVI. Valedictory ... ... ... ... ... 3C4 CONTENTS. XVI APPENDICES. PAGE A.— Notes on the Plants collected, by Sir Joseph D. Hooker, K.C.S.I., C.B. 323 Catalogue of Plants, by Professor Oliver ... ... 329 List of Mosses, by Dr. Berggren, and of Lichens, by Mr. J. G. Baker ... ... ... ... .., ... 332 B. — Note on the Birds collected, by Captain H. W. Feilden, F.G.S., C.M.Z.S 333 C. — Note on the Crustacea collected, by Edward J. Miers, F.L.S., F.Z.S 339 T>. — List of Mollusca collected, by Edgar A. Smith, F.L.S., F.Z.S 344 E.— List of the Echinodermata collected, by F. Jeffrey Bell, M.A. ... ... ... ... ... ... 345 F. — Notes on Rhizopoda, by Henry B. Brady, F.R.S 346 G. — Remarks on the Rocks and Fossils, by Mr. Etheridge 349 H. — Notes on the Insects collected, by Robert McLachlan, F.R.S. .... 350 I. — Note on the Fishes, by Dr. Gunther, F.R.S. ... ... 353 Index ... ... ... ... .., ... ...

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Group on board "Isbjornen" ... ... ... Frontispiece Silver Bay, West Coast Novaya Zemlya ... To face 46 West Entrance to Matyushin Shar ... ... ,, 58 Matyushin Shar, looking towards Tjirikina Valley ... 92 Early Morning, Matyushin Shar, opposite Gubina Bay To face 164 Glade in Matyushin Shar' ... ... ... ... ,, 170 Meeting in Gubina Bay ... ... ... ... ... 253 Gubina Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... To face 258 Cairn erected by '-Isbjorn" ... ... ... ... 266 Matyushin Shar ... ... ... ... ... ... 321 MAPS. The Barents and Kara Seas ... ... ... At end The Matyushin Shar and part of the East Coast of Novaya Zemlya ... ... ... ... ,, A POLAR RECONNAISSANCE.

Chapter I. Introductory

Geographical exploration is one of the most fascinating pursuits to which a man can devote his energies and his abilities. This fascination is most powerful when investigations are made in those regions which have hitherto been regarded as almost inaccessible— where nature, assisted by the severity of the climate, combines with all her forces to repel the mortal intruders who strive to solve the mysteries of the Pole. There are few more noble objects to which an explorer, in the present age, can dedicate his labours than that of discovering unknown regions situated in high latitudes ; those wide areas of land, sea, and ice, bounded respectively by the Arctic and Antarctic circles. R USES OF POLAR DLSCOVERY. 2 To the former region, however, attention has been more continuously attracted. Greater exertions have been concentrated on the exploration of the northern part of our globe than on the southern ; in the first place, because it was at one time thought that a shorter route to India could be discovered in that direction than by making the long sea voyage round the Cape of Good Hope ; and, secondly, owing to the untimely fate of the gallant Sir John Franklin and his crews, and the necessity for examining hundreds of miles of coast line in search of them.

Hence the North is in a sense brought nearer home to us English sailors, and is looked upon with greater affection than the stormy and less accessible sea of the South. To my mind England, as a great maritime nation, should not be content with the unimportant role which she has of late years played in the grand work of geographical discovery, but, calling to remembrance the brave deeds performed by our forefathers, she should equip expeditions, not only for the exploration of that region culminating at the North Pole, but also for the complete discovery of the whole terrestrial globe ! There are many people who will raise the cry of Cut bono? and I fear the majority of the British public must at intervals, but happily not invariably, be included in this category. The cry originates in USES OF POLAR DLSCOVERY. 3 a want of knowledge regarding the utility of the work and the benefits to be derived from it.

In a strictly commercial sense, these adversaries of a glorious cause are, perhaps, in the right, because at the present time it cannot with confidence be urged that commerce would be directly benefited by the discovery of either the North or the South Poles ; but that such discoveries would be in directly beneficial, there is not the smallest doubt. When brave John Davis, and the equally gallant and intrepid navigator Hudson, sailed on their voyages of discovery three hundred years ago, it was with a view of finding a shorter passage to India than the one which exposed them to the dangers of tempestuous weather and the hardships and privations incidental, in those days, to a long sea voyage. Their expeditions, so far as the primary object for which they were despatched is concerned, were unsuccessful ; but they were admirable schools for our seamen, and led to the establishment of the whale fisheries, which were, and are, so remunera tive to those who have the hardihood to engage in this hazardous, though eminently lucrative, trade.

We must not, however, regard the question of despatching exploring expeditions exclusively from a commercial or money-making point of view. There are other results of a scientific nature, which THE BEST POLAR ROUTE. 4 in time will prove as beneficial to commerce as was the discovery of the habitat of the whale and other valuable oil-yielding animals. The scientific observations which are made by members of an Arctic expedition are of great practical value, more especially those bearing on the physical geography, geology, and meteorology of the unknown regions. It is not my intention now to enumerate the results that are likely to be obtained by a well organized and efficiently conducted expedition despatched to either extreme of our globe, but simply to lay before my readers a brief narrative of an Arctic cruise, in which I have lately been engaged.

After a very careful study of all that has been written on the different efforts that have been made to explore the region situated in the immediate vicinity of the North Pole, I had come to the con clusion that the best field for further successful exploration would be reached by penetrating the supposed icy sea situated between Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlya. A cruise in this direction would, I felt convinced, yield important and interesting confirmatory evi dence. It was a trip I was most desirous of under taking, but it was one I was afraid I should never have the good fortune to accomplish. Numerous difficulties presented themselves. I A WELCOME INVITATION. 5 was not sanguine enough to believe that the Government, in the present unsettled state of affairs, both at home and abroad, would be induced to send forth an expedition in that direction ; and that a private expedition should be despatched, in which my services would be required, was, I felt, a most remote contingency.

I had also to take into consideration my own professional career ; and, however much my heart and feelings were attracted in a northerly direction, I felt that I was bound to relinquish and sacrifice those inclinations when my services were required in the navy. A period of enforced professional inactivity en abled me, however, thanks to my friend Sir Henry Gore Booth, during the summer of 1879, to carry out investigations in a comparatively high latitude, in the interesting region I was so desirous of ex ploring. This locality has rarely been visited by our countrymen, and even those few who have ventured into the comparatively unknown waters of Novaya Zemlya have been yachtsmen, bent more on the slaughter of walruses than on the more interesting work of exploration. I propose, in the present volume, to present to my readers an account of a trip, the results of which were more satisfactory than even my most sanguine hopes had induced me to expect.

A WELCOME INVITATLON. It was whilst cogitating over the glorious field that lies open to the explorer in the Arctic regions, and bitterly lamenting the apparent decadence of the spirit of enterprise in this country, that I received a visit from Sir Henry, who cordially invited me to accompany him on, what he was pleased to call, a sporting trip to Novaya Zemlya. The very name of the place was sufficient, in itself, to induce me to listen favourably to his kind invitation ; for, to me, Novaya Zemlya was a terra incognita — a land I little dreamt I should ever have an opportunity of beholding, — a country associated with the gallant deeds of brave navigators of the sixteenth century, and the scene of the hardships and sufferings endured by sturdy old Willem Barents and his heroic band of Dutchmen during the winter of 1596, nearly three hundred years ago !

Such an offer was not one to be lightly rejected, yet before it could be accepted, many things had to be taken into consideration. It was late on Saturday, the 26th of April, that the offer was made. Sanction from the Admiralty had to be obtained before I could think of under taking such a trip. Sunday would, of course, be a dies non. Nothing could be done on that day, and as arrangements had been made for leaving England on Thursday, May 1st, it would leave me but little over two days to make all the necessary preparations OBJECTS OF THE CRULSE. 7 for the cruise. It is marvellous, however, how much can be done, even in forty-eight hours, when once the mind is made up ! Difficulties that appear insurmountable vanish ; obstructions are smoothed over and disappear ; and, at the last, ample time is found to devote even to trivial and unimportant affairs.

The primary object of our cruise was to be the pursuit of walruses, bears, and seals ; but as sport solely did not offer sufficient inducement to tempt me to visit the interesting and almost, to me, classic shores of Novaya Zemlya, my friend readily ac quiesced in the stipulation that when our cravings for the blood, or rather the oil, of* seals and walruses had been appeased, we should employ our time in the more important work of the examination of the edge of the pack ice, at a late season of the year, in the northern part of what is now generally known as the Barents Sea. With this understanding, I gladly accepted the invitation so generously and cordially extended. I have never had reason to regret my decision ; on the contrary, the cruise was productive of useful results, and an excellent and genial messmate made it a happy and a pleasant one.

As very little has been published regarding the history of Novaya Zemlya, and as our knowledge of that country is extremely limited, I have deemed PLAN OF THE WORK. 8 it advisable to preface the account of my own cruise and observations with a brief sketch of the geographical work that had previously been achieved in that far-away corner of the globe. In doing so I propose to devote chapters respectively to the efforts made by different nations, not only for the exploration of Novaya Zemlya, but also for the discovery, along its shores, of shorter routes to India, either by a north-east passage, or by a voyage directly across the North Pole. These voyages were undertaken principally by the English, Dutch, Russians, and Norwegians, all of whom added more or less to our knowledge of Novaya Zemlya and the surrounding seas.

A sketch of the work executed during former expeditions will tend to throw light on the important question of the navigation of those seas, and on the increase or diminution of the ice during a period extending over three hundred years.

Chapter II. Early English Voyages To The North-east

The name Novaya Zemlya is composed of two Russian words signifying New Land. When, or by whom, the name by which they are known was applied to these islands are questions difficult of solution. The name implies that their discovery is due to the Russian nation, and I think it extremely pro bable, although perhaps it would be difficult to prove, that Russia is legitimately entitled to claim this honour. Nearly all the old European navigators, records of whose deeds have been transmitted to us, allude to the fact of having met Russians along the coasts of Novaya Zemlya, who were making a living by hunting walruses and seals for their fur and oil. The first authenticated record of its discovery is undoubtedly that of Sir Hugh Willoughby, who, with Richard Chancellor and three ships, sailed from England in the year 1553, on a " Voyage intended for the discoverie of Cathay, set forth by the right SIR HUGH WILLOUGHBY. 10 worshipfull Master Sebastian Cabota, Governor of the mysterie and companie of the Marchants Adven turers of the citie of London."

Chancellor, in the Edward Bonaventura, was separated from his consort on their outward journey off the North Cape, by which fortunate circumstance he escaped the fate that awaited his superior officer. Sir Hugh was especially selected for the command of the expedition on account of the reputation he had established for himself as a soldier, and for his handsome and commanding mien ; for we are told, very quaintly, that he was chosen " by reason of his goodly personage, for he was of tall stature," and " for his singular skill in the services of war." Better would it have been for all connected with the enterprise, had they selected a sailor, like Chan cellor, to command the expedition, instead of entrust ing it to the conduct of a handsome and valiant soldier ! After parting company with Chancellor, Wil loughby, with his two ships, the Espcranza and the Confidentia, sailed to the eastward until they sighted land in latitude 72°.

This coast must have been what is now known as Gooseland, on the west coast of Novaya Zemlya. Thence he sailed to the northward for three days, and finally shaped a course to the south, eventually putting into a small bay on the coast of Lapland, for the purpose of waiting for more SIR HUGH WILLOUGHBY. 11 favourable weather in order to proceed with his work of exploration. But, alas ! that change never, came ; for, almost immediately after their arrival, the cold, inhospitable grasp of an Arctic winter, with all its attendant miseries, seized them, and they were irrevocably frozen up, They did not, however, lose heart, nor could they, at the time, have anticipated the dreadful doom that was in store for them. They knew that they were ill provided with provisions, and also with stores and clothing sufficient to enable them to contend with the hardships of winter in the Arctic zone ; but they were unable to realize the full extent of the priva tions to which they would be inevitably subjected.

To guard against all accidents, they took the precaution to despatch several parties into the interior, who made journeys of three and four days' duration, in search of inhabitants and relief; but they all returned unsuccessful. What a terrible winter must that have been to the crews of the Esperanza and Confidentia ! Short of provisions, insufficiently clad, with ships ill adapted for such a contingency as they were com pelled to submit to, is it surprising to hear that Sir Hugh Willoughby, with the entire crews of both ships, without a single exception, numbering in all sixty-five souls, perished from the combined effects of cold and starvation ? SIR HUGH WILLOUGHBY. 12 Their tragic fate was discovered, in the following year, by some Russian fishermen, who found the two vessels, intact, and still bearing their ghastly crews of stiffened corpses.

How long the unfortunate men lingered, after giving up all hope of relief, it is difficult to conjecture, but^from a signature of Sir Hugh Willoughby, with date attached, that was found on board, it was ascertained that he, at any rate, was alive towards the latter end of the month of January, 1554. The exact locality where this lamentable cata strophe occurred is pretty accurately determined. The bay in which the ships sought shelter is situated to the westward of the island of Norkeyiff, near the Angina River, on the coast of Lapland. My authority for this is the statement made by Captain Anthony Jenkinson, of the ship Primrose, who visited the spot three years after the melancholy event had happened. He thus alludes to it in his diary : " July dth. We passed by the place where Sir Hugh Willoughby, with all his company, perished, which is called Arzina-reca, that is to say, the River Arzina."

The spot was indicated to Jenkinson by one Robert Best, who two, years before, was at the mouth of the Dwina River, when the two vessels were taken round by the Russian fishermen. Taking everything into consideration, there can, STEPHEN BURROUGH. 13 I think, be no doubt that Sir Hugh Willoughby was the first civilized discoverer of Novaya Zemlya. He, however, did not land, but contented himself with sighting the coast. The discovery is alluded to in the following words : — " August 14.H1. Early in the morning we descried land, and hoisted out our boat to discover what land it might be. But the boat could not come to land, the water was so shoal ; there was very much ice also, but there was no similitude of habitation. This land lieth from Sejyuam'" E. by N. 160 leagues,f being in 72°.^ Then we plied to the northward, three days."