The Great Frozen Sea. A personal narrative of the voyage of the 'Alert' during the Arctic Expedition of 1875, 6

Front matter

THE GREAT FROZEN SEA "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY." Frontispiece THE GREAT FROZEN SEA A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF THE "ALERT" DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1S75-6 BY CAPTAIN ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N. (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT") AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA," AND " THE CRUISE OF THE ' ROSARIO ' " There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north, And the nortb holds the land that I love ; I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course, Of the winds guiding sure from above."— Frithiof's " Saca. LONDON DALDY, ISBISTER & CO. 56, LUDGATE HILL TO Œfje JWemorg of EEAE-ADMIEAL SHEEAED OSBOEN, C.B., WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DISPATCH OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS, \Ehis little ettotk IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTH0E. b PKEFACE. sFHE History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares.

My object in publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of -memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the publication of the work by Sir George Nares. The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875. It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the results of the late Expedition

Preface

. VIII ought only to whet our appetites, and stimulate us to undertake further discoveries. The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful results. Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of which has hitherto been as a sealed book. An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geo graphical problem regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest importance.

The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field ; but that which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the continua tion of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut. Eayer and his

PREFACE.

. IX sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic Eegions, that of England will be unrepresented. It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs, that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. "We were never in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been already thoroughly tested, and found perfect ; we have officers and men experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition.

The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to incur such an X

PREFACE.

. expenditure. I trust so ; and I, for one, look forward with confident hope to the dispatch, in a few years, of another Arctic expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member. A. H. M. 21, Eccleston Square, March, 1878. OFFICEES AND SHIE'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. " ALEET." Officers. Captain, George S. Nares, F.R.S. Commander, Albert H. Markham, F.R.G.S. Lieutenant, Pelham Aldrich. ,, Alfred A. Chase Parr. ,, George A. Giffard. „ William H. May. Sub- Lieutenant, George Le C. Egerton (promoted to Lieutenant during the absence of the expedition). Fleet Surgeon, Thomas Colan, M.D. Surgeon, Edward L. Moss, M.D. Engineer, James Wootton. ,, George White. Naturalist, Captain H. "Wemtss Feilden, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S. Chaplain, Rev. W. H. Pullex. Ship's Company. Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate.

John E. Radmore, chief carp. mate. Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward. Vincent Dominic, ship's cook. David Deuchars, ice quartermaster. John Thores, ice quartermaster. James Berrie, ice quartermaster. Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O. * Daniel Harley, 1st cl. PO.f Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O. Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O. James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O. Thomas Jolliffe, 1st cl. P.O. * First class petty officer. t Lost in H.M.S. " Eurydice." ship's company. XII James Self, A.B. William Woolley, A.B. John Pearson, A.B. William Mask-all, A.B. William Malley, A.B. Robert Symons, A.B. Henry Mann, shipwright. Williani Gore, stoker. John Shirley, stoker. Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith. George Norris, carpenter's crew. *Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver. Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter.

Spero Capato, captain's steward. George Kemish, W. R. steward. Frederick Cane, armourer. John Hawkins, cooper. William F. Hunt, W. R. cook. Robert Joiner, leading stoker. John Simmons, 2nd class P.O. Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O. William Ferbrache, A.B. George Cranstone, A.B. William Lorrimer, A.B. George Winstone, A.B. Reuben Francombe, A.B. Thomas H. Simpson, A.B. David Mitchell, A.B. Alfred R. Pearce, A.B. Marines. John Hollins, private R.M.L.I. Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A. f George Porter, gunner R.M.A. Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A. William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I. William Ellard, private R.M.L.I. Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I. The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the "Alert " :■ Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson. George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O. George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O. Michael O'Regan, A.B. J James Hand, A.B. Thomas Chalkley, A.B. Alfred Hindle, A.B. Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I. The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those belonging to the "Alert " may be of interest : — Wei^' Ca^adty.

Officers . . 32*1 years 149*8 lbs. 266 Men . . 27-4 „ 146*6 ,, 2451 General mean . 28*4 ,, 147-3 ,, 249-5 • Died on May 14th from the effects of frostbite whilst sledging. t Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging. + Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beaumont. CONTENTS. PAGE Dedication ........... v Preface vii Officers and Ship's Company of H.M.S. "Alert" . . . xi Chapter I. Fitting Out. Description of ships, 2 ; special fittings, 3 ; selection of officers and men, 5; kindness of friends, 7 ; games and musical instruments, 8 ; visitors to the ships, 9 ; departure, 10 ; arrival at Bantry Bay, 13; the voyage commenced, 14. Chapter IT. The Voyage to Disco. Tests of physical capacity, 16; regular issue of lime-juice, 17; gales of wind in the Atlantic, 18 ; Blow progress, 21 ; whales, 22 ; the first ice, 24 ; the Land of Desolation, 25 ; seals, 26 ; the Greenland coast, 27 ; fishing for cod, 28 ; arrival at Godhavn, 29.

Chapter HI. The ' Greenland Settlements. An Eskimo dance, 31 ; Eskimo dogs, 32 ; amusements at Godhavn, 33 ; ascent of the Lyngenmarksjeld, 35; aid from the " Valorous," 37; tradition of Disco, 38 ; Bitenbenk, 39 ; part company with " Valorous," 40; the Waigat Strait, 41; dangers in the Waigat, 42; Proven, 43 ; Hans Hendrik engaged, 44 ; " Sanderson, his hope," 45 ; Upernivik, 46. Chapter TV. Melville Bay and the North Water. Preparations for a nip, 49 ; the middle ice, 50 ; a bear-hunt, 52 ; the North Water, 54 ; Cary Island depot, 56 ; approaching Smith Sound, 57 ; enter Smith Sound, 58. CONTENTS. Chapter V. Smith Sound. Life-boat Cove, 60 ; visit winter-quarters of " Polaris," 61 ; Littleton Island, 63 ; Cape Isabella, 64 ; stopped by the ice, 65 ; Payer Harbour, 66 ; first experiences in sledging, 67 ; Twin Glacier Bay, 68 ; an Arctic paradise, 70 ; tidal observations, 71.

Chapter VI. Struggles with the Ice. Open water, 73 ; in danger of a nip, 74 ; Vigilance of Captain Nares, 76 ; wanderings of the Eskimo, 78. Chapter VII. A Walrus Hunt. Dog Driving. Grinnell Land, 82 ; glaciers, 83 ; a walrus hunt, 84 ; amusements on the ice, 88 ; the Eskimo dogs, 89 ; dog sledging, 91. Chapter VIII. Slow Progress through the Ice. Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 95 ; discovery of an ancient cairn, 97 ; cutting a dock, 99 ; struggles through the ice, 103 ; dangerous position, 104 ; Cape Fraser, 105 ; junction of two tides, 106 ; Cape John Barrow, 107 ; Cape Collinson, 108 ; heavy squalls, 109 ; increasing thickness of floes, 110 ; icebergs decreasing in number, 111. Chapter IX. Kennedy Channel. Cape Constitution, 113; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 114; Hall Basin blocked with ice, 115; Bessels Bay, 116; Hannah Island, 117; cross Kennedy Channel, 119; musk-oxen, 120; winter quarters of "Discovery," 123 ; the two ships part company, 124.

Chapter X. The Crossing of the Threshold. Robeson Channel, 127 ; stopped off Cape Beechey, 130 ; Shift Rudder Bay, 131 ; floe-bergs, 132 ; the first lemming, 133 ; marine shells above sea-level, 134; depot established at Lincoln Bay, 135; a fortunate escape, 137; crossing the threshold, 138; finally stopped by ice, 140 ; the Frozen Ocean, 141. CONTENTS. XV Chapter XI. Floe-berg Beach. Saved by floe-bergs, 144; precarious winter quarters, 145 ; a reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 148 ; habits of Eskimo dogs, 150 ; Dumb-bell Bay, 151; eider-ducks, 152; two boats advanced northwards, 153; a severe march, 154 ; danger of the ship, 155 ; unable to move, 156 ; autumn sledging commenced, 157. Chapter XII. Autumn Travelling. Autumn travelling, 160 ; discomforts, 161 ; liability to frost-bites, 165 ; difficulties, 168; cheerfulness of the men, 169; highest position reached in the autumn, 170 ; frost-bites, 171 ; return of travellers, 173; results, 174.

Chapter XIII. Winter Quarters. Preparations for winter, 176; observatories, 177; snow-houses, 178; the ship housed in, 179 ; interior arrangements, 180 ; winter clothing, 184; precautions against fire, 186; observations for temperature, 187. Chapter XIV. The Royal Arctic Theatre. Printing-office, 189 ; school, 191 ; amusements, 193 ; Thursday pops, 194 ; lectures, 195; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 196; the prologue, 197; conjuring entertainment, 201 ; magic-lantern exhibition, 201. Chapter XV. Winter Occupations and Amusements. Departure of the sun, 203; Guy Fawkes' Day, 204; scientific observations, 205 ; the moon, 206 ; open-air exercise, 207 ; inconvenience from drip, 208 ; fluctuations of temperature, 209 ; movement of the ice, 210; celebration of birthdays, 211 ; bill of fare, 211 ; fresh meat, 212; Divine service, 213; medical inspections, 213; tabo-jganing, 214 ; Nellie, 215 ; a lost dog, 216.

Chapter XVI. An Arctic Christmas. Preparations for Christmas Day, 220 ; Christmas presents, 221 ; Christmas Day, 222 ; retrospect, 225 ; frost-bite patients, 226 ; precautions against frost-bite, 257 ; the Palæocrystic sea, 228 ; a brilliant meteor, 229. CONTENTS. Chapter XVII. A Happy New Year. New Year's Day, 230 ; mustard and cress, 233 ; heavy snow drifts, 234 ; returning light, 235 ; severe cold, 237 ; an alarm in the observatory, 238 ; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 240 ; Nellie and the lemmings, 241; Rawson's snow hut, 242; the last school meeting, 243; the last dramatic performance, 244 ; the last " pop," 245 ; grand palæocrystic sledging chorus, 246. Chapter XVIII. Return of the Sun. Cairn Hill, 249 ; the sun's return, 250 ; intense cold, 252 ; experiments on various substances during extreme cold, 253 ; daylight, 255 ; alarm of fire, 256 ; dismantling the observatories, 257 ; the sledgecrews exercised, 258 ; a wolf, 259.

Chapter XIX. Details of Sledge Travelling. Preparations for sledging, 262; weights, -263 ; auxiliary sledges and depots, 265 ; tents, 266 ; cooking apparatus, 267 ; scale of provisions, 268 ; lime-juice, 269 ; medical instructions, 270 ; sledging costume, 271; precautions against snow-blindness, 272; programme of sledging work, 273 ; boats to be carried by northern division, 276 ; names of sledges, 277. Chapter XX. The Journey of Egerton and Rawson. Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 279; departure of Egerton and Rawson, 280 ; their return, 28; ; Petersen frost-bitten, 282 ; heroic conduct, 283 ; efforts to save Petersen, 284 ; difficulties of the return journey, 286 ; Egerton's second start, 288 ; death of Petersen, 289. Chapter XXI. The Routine of Sledge Travelling. Departure of the sledges, 291 ; first camp, 293 ; inlense cold, 296 ; arrival at the autumn depot, 297 ; the parties separate, 298 ; duties of cook, 299 ; sledging breakfast, 300 ; luncheon, 301 ; halting for the nights 303 ; evenings in the tent, 305.

CONTENTS. XVII Chapter XXII. The Northern Division — Travelling in April. Heavy ice encountered, 308 ; road-making over the ice, 310 ; struggling over hummocks, 313 daily routine, 314; continued cold, 315; excellence of the sledges, 316 ; first symptoms of disease, 317 ; a gale of wind, 318; heavy snow-drifts, 320; disease increasing, 321; excellent conduct of the men, 322 ; resolve to abandon one boat, 324 ; increased weight to drag, 326 ; intense cold, 327 ; state of the floes, 328 ; cross the 83rd parallel, 329 ; enormous hummocks, 330 ; hummocks and snow-drifts, 331 ; tracks of a hare seen, 333 ; young ice, 334 ; enforced rest, 334. Chapter XXm. The most Northern Point ever reached by Man. Scurvy, 336 ; difficulties increasing, 337 ; struggling northwards, 338 ; hummocks discoloured by mud, 339 ; condition of party, 340 ; issue of lime-juice, 342; scorbutic symptoms, 343; the last advance, 344; most northern encampment, 345 ; soundings obtained, 347 ; the most northern position ever reached by man, 348.

Chapter XXIV. Return of the Northern Division. Homeward bound, 351; increased sufferings, 353; courage of the men, 355 ; extreme weakness of the men; 356 ; abandonment of the second boat, 358 ; a snow bunting seen, 359 ; the land reached, 361 ; Parr dispatched for succour, 362 ; a stray dog, 363 ; death of Porter, 364 ; his burial, 364 ; saved, 366 ; return on board, 367. Chapter XXV. Return of all the Sledge Travellers. Causes of scurvy, 370 ; anxiety for Aldrich, 372 ; May sent to his rescue, 373 ; return of Aldrich, 374 ; care of the sick, 375 ; the welcome back, 377 ; decide to return to England, 379 ; musk-oxen, 380 ; shooting parties, 381 ; liberation of the ship, 384 ; under weigh, 385. Chapter XXVI. The Return Voyage in the Ice. Preparations for abandoning ship, 387; communicate with '* Discover}-," 389; discovery of Eskimo relics, 391 ; a severe nip, 392; critical situation of ship, 393 ; Discovery Harbour, 393 ; return of Beaumont, 394 ; a frozen cave, 395 ; " Alert " forced on shore, 396 ; struggles with the ice, 397 ; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 398 ; a seal and fox shot, 399 ; reach the open sea, 399.

CONTENTS. Chapter XXVIL Homeward Bound. Cape Isabella, 402 ; letters from home, 403 ; bad weather, 404 ; Whale Sound, 404 ; off Lancaster Sound, 405 ; reappearance of fulmar petrelB, 406 ; reach Godhavn, 407 ; receive letters from England, 408 ; leave Godhavn, 409 ; Egedesminde, 410 ; sight the "Pandora," 412; arrive at Valentia, 413; at Queenstown, 413; welcome home, 414. Appendices. PAGE Appendix A. — Programmes of the Arctic Popular Entertainments 416 „ B. — List of Game obtained by the "Alert" . . 424 „ C. — Regulations for the tjse of the Drying-room . 426 „ D. — "Winter Routine 427 ,, E. — A few Statistics regarding H.M.S. " Alert " . 428 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL-PAGE PLATES. PAGE "Alert" and "Discovery" Frontispiece Polar Bears To face p. 52 Winter Quarters H.M.S. "Alert" , 175 Highest Northern Camp ......,, 346 Reducing a Floe-berg „ 393 H.M.S. "Alert" forced on Shore . . . . „ 396 SMALLER WOODCUTS.

Seals basking on the Ice ........ 26 Eskimo Women 31 Walruses 85 Cape Hawks 96 Plan of Ice Dock 100 "The Moaning of the Tied" 102 Musk-oxen 121 Knots ............ 128 Dog-sledge in difficulties . , 151 Crews and Flags of the Autumn Sledges . . To face p. 159 Start of the Autumn Sledges 166 Diagram of Magnetic Observatories 177 Flagstaff Point (Cape Sheridan) 179 Eoyal Arctic Theatre— Scene from "Aladdin axi> the Wonderful Scamp" I96 Nellie A1" XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAOE Lemmings . • • 242 Cairn Hill 249 Sledge under sail 262 Crews and Flags of the Spring Sledges . . . To face p. 277 Dogs and Sledge 279 Getting ready to " Bag "........ 304 Chart of Outward and Return Tracks . . . To face p. 308 Interior of Tent ......... 315 A packed Sledge 316 Snow-bunting 359 Brent-goose and Eider-ducks 382 Allman Bay 400 Fulmar Petrels ("Mollies") 406 Farewell! 415 Map showing the Discoveries of the Arctic Expedition, 1875-6 Tofacep. ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76 (Capt, Sir GeorgeNares,lLNXCB; Reduced from an Ailmimltv Chart. A pril, 1875.

Chapter I. Fitting Out

" Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede, Habundantly for hire a ful long space : And other necessaries that shuld nede She had ynow, heried he Godde's grace : For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace, And bring hire home, I can no better say But in the see she driveth forth hire way." Chaucer (Man of Lawe's Tale). THE above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May, 1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard. Busy as this great naval depot of England almost always is, it is seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that were then lying " all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive yard. The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the "Discovery," then destination the unknown North.

Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would readily B THE "ALERT." 2 [Chap. April. 187o. detect signs of great strength in these two business like looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of the Polar Ocean. The two skips had been very carefully selected and fitted for the important work in which they were about to engage. The " Alert " was a 17 -gun sloop, and had already served two or three com missions on foreign stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery" was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she was pur chased for the Arctic expedition.

The " Alert " was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of the Admiral Superin tendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock), adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to be employed. After a complete overhaul of her hull, all de fective timbers and beams were removed, and replaced by sound ones ; extra beam power was introduced ; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from the keel to the waterways, was put on ; whilst a lon°i tudinal beam, placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally, bound and I-] SPECIAL FITTINGS. April. 1875. strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of the ice ; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.

Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form, were added ; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments. Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and un shipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits. Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water, consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice, this, being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships #were fitted with Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails ; and each possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for many purposes.

At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel b2 crow's nest, boats, figure-head. [Chap. April, 1875. was a large barrel-like object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all ships des tined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged, and were supplied with the ordi nary contrivances used on board short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work. They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily-rigged but trim men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared yards, lay in the harbour near them. Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes, specially designed and constructed for the peculiar service in Arctic waters. Two of these were completely fitted for whaling, so as « to be able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals.

They were both provided with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice. The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly similar. They were what are com-, monly called " fiddle-heads," having the union jack painted on them, and underneath the word Ubique ; and to no flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied. Everywhere 1*] SELECTION OF OFFICERS AND MEN. 5 April, 1875. is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of man ! The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great measure regulated by the scales on which preceding expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture and quality.

Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for refusing the services of appa rently strong, healthy men. Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented themselves one of no little difficulty. Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as was their physical condi tion ; and men of a happy and genial disposition were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn.

" Can you sing or dance ? or what can you do for the amusement of others ? " were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants who presented them selves. SELECTION OF OFFICERS AND MEN. [Chap. April. 1875.' The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of . those individuals who were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated most clearly the popularity of the enterprise amongst the men of the Eoyal Navy ; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected. As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice.

He said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do ? The whole ship's com pany, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names ! " This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped. The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out. Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the recep tacle of some important article. The ships gradu ally settled down in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to be i April 1875.

I*] THOUGHTFUL KINDNESS. alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained un stowed. The Admiralty had, however, provided for this emergency. The " Valorous," an old paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland. This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores. Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts.

Her Majesty and the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the deep interest they took in the enterprise. The name of her Imperial Majesty the Empress Eugenie must always be associated with the expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual, contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous duties of sledging. To mention the names of all our generous bene factors would require a chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money came [Chap. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. May. 1875 pouring in from all sides ; but smaller and less valuable, though not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with the super scription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the ' Alert,' " and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little parcel of well thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of having been well perused, but which came with the " best wishes of a warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents.

Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and monotonous winter, were purchased ; whilst a complete set of instruments for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our necessaries. In devoting a certain sum of money to the pur chase of musical instruments and games, where withal to amuse ourselves, we were only following an example set us many years ago ; for when Sir Humphrey Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering the north-west passage, we read that, " for the solace of our people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in good varietie ; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby horses, and many like con ceits, to delight the savage people, whom we in tended to winne by all faire meanes possible."

We also hear, when that brave old navigator I-] 9 VISITORS TO THE SHIPS. May 1875 John Davis undertook his first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the " Sunshine " and the "Moonshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three persons, of whom four were musicians — a large band in proportion to the com plement of officers and men. In spite of the bustle and confusion that are in separable from the preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to the no small hindrance of the work ; but it is feared that many others, owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that they had been on board the Polar ships.