The Turks, the Greeks, and the Slavons. Travels in the Slavonic Provinces of Turkey-in-Europe ... With maps, and ... illustrations by F. Kanitz

Front matter

TRA VELS IN THE SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF TURKEY-IN-EUROPE SERBIAN BORDER GUARD. THE TURKS, THE GREEKS, 6- THE SLA VONS. TRAVELS IN THE SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF TURKEY-IN-EUROPE. By G. MUIR MACKENZIE and A. P. IRBY. SMitb Jtt^ps, aitb Jtumcrons Illustrations Ira _jf. Samtj. LONDON : BELL AND DALDY, FLEET STREET, AND YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1867. The Right of Translation is resented. THE FOLLOWING NOTES OF TRAVEL ARE DEDICATED TO LADY MU1R MACKENZIE (of delvine) THE DEARLY LOVED MOTHER OF ONE OF THE TRAVELLERS, AND THE REVERED FRIEND OF BOTH. "sinter bcm Serge smb aucl) Scute. German Proverb quoted by Stanley m " Lectures on the Easterrt Churcli," p. 3. CONTENTS.

Appendix

. A — SERBIAN AND BULGARIAN CHARACTERISTICS . . . . 664 B — VALLACHIANS IN THRACE 665 C — TITHE FARMING SYSTEM LN TURKEY ... . • 666 D — DESCRIPTION OF THE SERBIAN VILLAGE COMMUNITY AS EXISTING IN FREE SERBIA . 668 E — VENICE ON THE ADRIATIC, AND VINETA ON THE BALTIC . 671 F — CHURCHES OF SAPOTCHANI AND CHERNA RIEKA . . . 672 G ALBANIAN DISTRICTS ABOUND DETCHANI .... 674 H — LES MIRDITES 683 I — SERBIAN RULERS OF THE HOUSE OF NEMANIA, AND THEIK ■WIVES 684 J — TABLE OF DATES OF LEADING EVENTS IN SERBIAN HISTORY 685 K — TABLE OF DATES OF LEADING EVENTS IN HISTORY OF THE SERBS IN MONTENEGRO, SINCE THE BREAKLNG-UP OF THE CZARDOM 687 GLOSSARY LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. SERBIAN BOEDER GUARD Frontispiece. MAP OF THE SOUTH SLAVONIC COUNTRIES . . . facing p. XV map of turkey-in-europe 1 ♦^salonica on the ægean 5 v— bulgarian peasants, with bulgarian merchant and his son 23 . cathedral of ochrida 70 bulgarian monastery of rilo 124 portal of white marble church of studenitza, built by NEMANIA 152 AND RAYAHS 179 MAP OF THE PRINCIPALITY OF SERBIA, 1863 . . . . 195 MAP OF STARA (OLD) SERBIA . . 243 SPECIMEN OF SERBIAN ARCHITECTURE 245 * MUSSULMAN BEYS AND CHRISTIAN PRIEST 291 INTERIOR OF SERBIAN CHURCH — MANASSIA . . . 311 SERBIAN PEASANTS AND CITIZENS OF A COUNTRY TOWN . . 317 HERZEGOVINIAN RAYAH PAYING TRIBUTE 350 CHURCH FESTIVAL IN FREE SERBIA 367 CASTLE OF PRIZREN 451 ALBANIANS IN MOUNTAINS ABOVE SCODRA 515 ZABLIAK, CASTLE OF IVAN CERNOIEVITCH, LAST PRINCE OF ZETA AND FIRST OF MONTENEGRO 538 MONTENEGRINS BRINGING TURKISH CANNON TO CETIGNE AFTER THE BATTLE OF GRAHOVO 582 UNDER THE TREE AT CETIGNE 625 BOCCHE DI CATTARO, OPENING ON THE ADRIATIC . . . %* The illustrations of this work are from original sketches by F. Kanitz, Author of "Byzantine Monuments in Serbia."

The greater portion of the text is contributed by the writer whose name stands first on the Title-page.

Introduction

. In the advanced stage of civilisation of the present era, we look with regret at £the possession by the Moslem of the fairest portions of the world — of countries so favoured by climate, and by geographical position, that, in the early days of the earth's history, they were the spots most coveted ; and that such favoured places should, through the Moslem rule, be barred from the advancement that has attended lands less adapted by nature for development. There are no countries of the earth so valuable, or that would occupy so important a place in the family of nations, as Turkey-in-Europe, Asia Minor, and Egypt, under a civilised and Christian Government. — Baker. Exploration of the Nile Sources, Introductory Chapter, p. xxix. The Turk has got to reform three steps for his Christian subjects' one step.

The chances are against him in so doing, because he has to reform against the grain of his religion, and does so with difficulty : while they, if not reforming by reason of the ritual and dogmas of their religion, imperfectly connected as these are in their minds with the morality which is its essence, are at least thereby placed in direct unison with the progress and civilisation of Western Europe. — Lord Strangford. Eastern Shores ofthe Adriatic, p. 365. God knows no people could have been subjected to the Turkish Go vernment without suffering great moral deterioration ; but there is this distinguishing feature about the Christian population in Turkey, that they are a progressive people — that they are seeking to catch the light of Western Europe, to enter on a new path of civilisation and progress. — See Mr. Cobden's Speech, Debate on Turkey, May 29, 1863.

IT is now several years since we quitted England with the intention of spending a few months in Athens. Our motive in leaving home was to seek a warm yet bracing climate for the winter ; we heard that this was to be found in Athens, and we were glad of the opportunity to see Greece. On our way through Prague and Vienna we met

INTRODUCTION.

. XIV with some of the leading men of the national party in Bohemia, one among whom — the venerable historian Palatzky — has earned an European reputation. No sooner did they hear we were bound for Athens, than they suggested that, after a visit to Greece, we should travel homeward through Turkey-in-Europe. " Thus, said they, " when you return our way, you will be able to tell us something about our brethren of race, the South Slavonic peoples." Previous journeys had led us to make the acquaint ance of divers nations of the Slavic stock, nevertheless we had to confess to the Czechs that we scarcely knew who their southern brethren were. This profession of ignorance was received with displeasure. " You are not," said our friends, " the first English people who have told us as much; yet those of the South Slavonic countries which form part of the Ottoman empire stand politically under British guarantee, your nation helps to keep them in their present condition, and their future in great measure depends on her policy.

Have you never heard of the Christians in Turkey, nor of the Serbians and Montenegrines \ " " Indeed," said we ; " we have heard and read of them, but we know very little about them for all that ; and among other things we do not know why you call them South Slavonic peoples." The Czechs now went more fully into the sub ject, and, besides answering our questions them selves, directed us to maps and books whence we could obtain information. Afterwards we got at other books and maps which did not present altogether the same view as theirs, but seldom differed from it as to facts of importance. Of what we thus learnt we propose to give a sketch, in case that others as well as ourselves may find it necessary to ask who the South

INTRODUCTION.

. XV Slavonic peoples are, and what they have to do with the Christians in Turkey. The north of Turkey-in-Europe, and the south of the Austrian empire, together with Montenegro which lies between them, are inhabited by races speaking the Slavonic tongue. Those in Austria inhabit the Slovene country, and the so-called Triune Kingdom of Slavonia, Croatia, and Dalmatia, — besides several districts in Hun gary ; those in Turkey live between Macedonia and the Danube, and are divided according to their dialects into Bulgarians and Serbs. Altogether they number from ten to twelve millions, and form the southern division of the Slavonic race. Some years ago these peoples made efforts towards a common literary language. The movement was hailed by some of the most enlightened men in Europe as a spark of fresh life, a means of arousing intellectual energy in regions where it had lain dormant so long.

Unluckily just then Panslavism was a name of terror, and the Slavonic peoples south of the Danube were accused of Panslavistic tendencies ; in plain terms, of wishing for political union under the leadership of Russia. Need was then felt of some designation to mark a sense of kindred among themselves, and of the distinction from the Russians and other Slavs.* " Illyrian " was the word first tried, but at the time fulfilled its end imperfectly, inasmuch as its Latin associations rendered it distasteful to the Serbs and Bulga rians who belong to the Eastern Church. The name South Slavonians (Slav, Iugo Slavi, from iug, south) so * A. former classification gave the name of South Slavonic only to the Croato-Serbs and Slovenes, the Bulgarians being classed ivith the Russians as East Slavonic. The new classification, grouping together the Slavic peoples south of the Danube, distinguishes them all from the group containing the Russians.

INTRODUCTION.

. XVI far answers better, being a mere geographical designation, obnoxious neither to religious nor national jealousies. This term has gained a good deal of ground, and is now understood and used by Bulgarians and Serbians, by members of the Eastern Church, and even by Mussul mans, as well as by the Roman Catholic Croatians who invented it. Moreover, it has acquired a political as well as a literary significance ; for in the mouths of peoples forcibly divided and discontented with their present con dition, a literary phrase expressive of union is apt to represent a political idea. However, the name South Slavonian was not originally put forward by any govern ment ; and the government of the Principality of Serbia — desirous to avoid representations from Turkey and Austria — has more than once had to disappoint some impatient spirits by refusing to afficher any name but that of Serb.

Such then is the history of the name, now for that of the race to which it refers. The South Slavonic peoples have occupied their present seats for more than a thousand years. Until the end of the fourteenth century they mostly remained independent, and, in respect of civilisation, stood fairly on a level with neighbouring lands. Then came the Mahometan deluge, wherein those parts of Europe lying nearest Asia had the ill luck to be overflowed, and when, except the rocks of Montenegro, almost every Slavonic district south of the Danube sank under the power of the Turk. Croatia, by alliances with Hun gary and Austria — Dalmatia being taken by Venice — escaped subjection to Mussulman yoke ; but their development was grievously retarded by the border warfare of which they became the scene. As for their eastern kinsmen, it was not till the beginning of this century that a handful of Serbians dwelling on the south bank of the Danube succeeded in wringing from the

INTRODUCTION.

. XVII Porte a recognition of their right to govern themselves. At present, their chosen native ruler acknowledges the Sultan as suzerain, and their capital has to tolerate a Turkish garrison, but iii other respects their self government is complete. Hence, they have been able to exchange the law of the Koran for an European code, and to start on a career not inaptly characterised by a well-informed and well-known British writer, as that of the " youngest member of the European family." * But the number of free Serbians scarcely exceeds a million ; the Danubian principality is a fraction of their land. The districts called Old Serbia, Bosnia, Herzegovina, and the whole of Bulgaria — with a population of from six to eight millions — are still administered by Mahometan officials. It was for these Turk-ruled provinces that our Czech friends were most anxious to bespeak a visit.

Accounts of Montenegro or Danubian Serbia need never be want ing ; the former lies on the shore of the Adriatic, the latter within a day or two of Vienna ; moreover there is no appreciable discomfort or danger attending a journey to either. Both have been frequently and well described, and should they increase in political importance, both will see visitors enough. "It is otherwise," said * See " Servia : Youngest Member of the European Family," repub lished in " Researches on the Danube and the Adriatic." Having been over most of the ground described by Mr. Paton in his Slavonic tour, we have had much reason to thank him for the assistance which his works prove to travellers in lands so little known. His last tour in Bulgaria, as correspondent to a newspaper at tbe time of the Crimean war, is now perhaps less valuable than the rest, being writttn at a time when the Bulgarian regarded an Englishman as an enemy, and took especial care not to admit him to confidence ; but nothing can be truer to life than his description of country and people in Serbia and Dalmatia, wh.re he was received as a friend : moreover he knows Serbian history well enough to appreciate the importance of the national germ contained in the Dauubiaii principality. b

INTRODUCTION.

. XVIII our friends, "with the inland Mahometan provinces. There the rayah population will tell you, ' they are still behind God's back/ judging of God from their fellow men, of whom the more happy and powerful have certainly turned their backs on them many a long day. We, in Bohemia, and some other places, feel for them strongly enough, but the very tie of race which causes our feeling, exposes us to political suspicion if we show it by word or deed. "The 'isolation ofthe unfortunate,' resulting in great measure from geographical position, is one of the bits of ill-luck which the Slavonians in Turkey have to endure ; but they labour under others far greater, and under one which may be deemed exceptional. W e do not here allude to material hardship, nor even to political oppression ; for of these both have been equalled — the latter is equalled still — under certain governments of Christian Europe.

The exceptional misfortune of these conquered nations lies in the character of their conqueror, in the stolid barbarism of the Mahometan Turk, and the tendency of his rule to make barbarians of its subjects. If what we hear from emigrants be true, the Slavonic Christians have now begun rousing themselves to resist this tendency, and are striving to give their children an education that may fit them for a higher stage in civilised life. We should be glad to hear some thing on this head from witnesses who are not — as the emigrants must be — prejudiced by ties of sect or race. You, as English people, would not be thus biassed ; and this is a subject whereon you could obtain informa tion — besides learning a good deal from the testimoiry of your own eyes — without mixing yourself up in any of the political animosities wherewith Turkey-in- Europe is torn. Should you find among the Slavonic Christians real efforts at educational self-help, there

INTRODUCTION.

. XIX are persons among your countrymen who would be anxious to encourage it. The Americans began work forty years ago, and really advanced education in Modern Greece. They have lately taken Bulgaria in hand, but the field is large, they cannot cover it for a long time ; and when they shall have covered it, the western provinces remain. Why cannot something be done from your country, whose intimate relations with Turkey should lead her to take thought for the im provement of the population. Perhaps you think that England has already spent both blood and money in behalf of Turkey without any adequate reward ; we agree with you so far as Mahometan Turkey is con cerned. But, thank God, the future of the magnificent country between Macedonia and the Danube, does not depend on the chances of galvanising a Mahometan and Oriental government into a mimicry of civilised life, it depends on rousing and training the energies of populations who, although undeveloped, are at least Christian and European."

At the time when this was first said to us, we knew too little of the subject under discussion either to agree or contradict. In return for much kindness, all we could do was to promise our friends that we would bear their suggestions in mind, and visit the Slavonic rayahs if we could. We then proceeded on our travels, went to Athens and to other parts of Greece, to the Ionian Islands and Crete, to Thessaly and Epirus. We also visited Constantinople, and there made preparations for a tour in the interior. In that journey, and those which succeeded it, we managed to carry out part of the wishes of our Czech friends. We visited the Slavonic parts of Turkey, Bulgaria, Bosnia, Herze govina, and Old Serbia; besides Free Serbia, Monte negro, and Northern Albania. Altogether we had to b XX

INTRODUCTION.

. ride four times across Turkey-in-Europe, and to spend weeks and months at different places in order to learn the Slavonic tongue, and get up history, poetry, and legend belonging to the regions through which we passed. Afterwards we visited Dalmatia, Slavonia, Croatia, and the famous Frusca Gora— to complete previous travels in Austria and Hungary, and make acquaintance with the Austrian kinsmen of the Sla vonians in Turkey. We mention these facts merely to show that, so far as in us lay, we avoided the error of judging the Christians in Turkey from what we might happen to see in a single tour, or to pick up from diplomatic gossip in some capital great or small — in Constanti nople or Belgrade. We soon became convinced of the impossibility of forming an idea ofthe interior of a half civilised country by hasty visits to one or other corner of it, or even by a long residence in a town at one of its extremities.

Such partial information misleads credulous persons because they take what is accidental to be the rule ; it equally misleads persons who pique themselves on incredulity, and who predetermine what is or is not " likely," because they see only what lies on tho surface, and have relations mostly with persons who have acquired a coating of European varnish, or who know what an Englishman expects them to say. !Nor did it seem to us that much knowledge of the people is gained even by travellers who get over a great deal of ground, but lodge with official per sonages, whether governors or prelates. The interest felt by such voyagers in Turkey is indeed chiefly political ; they wish to judge how far the intrigues of some foreign power are undermining the hold of the Turk, and to this end observation is directed to the moves and counter-moves of ambassadors and viziers ;

INTRODUCTION.

. XXI or, in a humbler sphere, of consuls and pashas. The Christian inhabitants are regarded as the more or less unwilling subjects of some foreign rule. If they be Slavonic, ignorance of the language usually debars an English traveller from communicating with them ; be sides, his obvious intimacy with the Turkish governor or Phanariote bishop would secure him from hear ing anything save what he might safely repeat. The fact that few persons have time or inclination to travel through Turkey-in-Europe in such a fashion and at such a slow pace, as would admit of their making acquaintance with the Slavonic peoples, may partly explain why comparatively little mention is made of these peoples in some of the works wherein their country is described. Of such works there are several ; we shall have to refer to one or two of them in the following pages, and we gratefully acknowledge how much we have been in debted to them especially for geographical details.

Having thought it best to show that we do not presume to write without taking all the pains in our power to know the people of whom we are writing, we must add that, after taking all pains, we had to leave off fully aware that much, very much, remained to us unknown. Not to speak of what was sadly defective in our own powers of observation as applied to the places we did see, there are many interesting parts of Turkey-in-Europe which we did not see at all. We had even to resign several journeys after they were planned, and after letters and recommendations had been provided for us all along the road. Health will not always stand proof against Danube fever, or stiength hold out against indifferent food and lodging. When health and strength failed us, there was nothing for it but to come home. The consideration how incomplete and uncertain

INTRODUCTION.

. were even such materials as we had been able to collect, gave us a reason (almost as strong as natural indolence, which had, however, much to do with it) for shirking the second part of the undertaking laid upon us by our Czech friends— that, namely, of writing some account of the people we had seen. But to the per formance of this task we were exhorted not only by our original prompters, but also by those among our own countrymen who — as the Bohemians expected — proved anxious to lend the Christians in Turkey a helping hand in matters affecting practical improvement. The assistance received in our own efforts to this end, the kind interest expressed in fragmentary accounts already published, have encouraged us to prepare the fuller narrative we now offer. Beforehand, however, we would warn our readers — 1st. That in the Slavonic provinces of Turkey it is still hard to arrive at facts, especially statistics, and that those you do arrive at are often unreliable and contradictory.

We have done what we could to secure accuracy when possible ; and since our return to England, wherever we have found our notes differ from those of other travellers, we have written for more precise details to persons on the spot. Doubtless many errors still re main, and we shall be much obliged to any one who, by pointing them out, may give us an opportunity of correcting them. 2nd. Lack of special knowledge, scientific, commercial, or military, renders us unable to give details which might be easily collected by other travellers on the same ground.* 3rd. In order to * The journey of Dr. Earth, of which an account has since been pub lished, took place while we were in Turkey. That of the Austrian Consul, Hahn, with the Serbian artillery officer, Zach, occurred some years previously ; and we are indebted to Colonel Zach for correcting our Ethnographical Map with regard to parts of the country that came under his own eye.

INTRODUCTION.

. XXIII give English readers some idea of the past annals and present disposition of little-known peoples, we have had to enter on historical chapters which it would require skill far greater than ours to make generally entertaining. 4th. It is impossible to describe people and things in Turkey without constantly trespassing on political ground. However, in such notices as here and there we may have to give of political theories, we shall usually eliminate those of outsiders, and only repeat what we heard from natives, and from persons intimately and durably connected, not only with the government, but with the people. A political opinion of our own, of course we do not offer, being well aware that it must be valueless ; whereas we would fain hope that the narration of such incidents in past history or daily life, as came to our knowledge or under our observation, may, at least, afford materials which others can turn to account.

More than once in the course of the following pages we shall have to diverge from the due sequence of dates, in order to describe places and events that came under our eye a year or so earlier. The desultoriness of effect thus produced we recognise as a defect in any work as a whole ; but our work could at any rate make so little claim to completeness or elegance, that we do as we would be done by in preferring a little more in formation to a little better form. And now, to avoid clogging the following narrative ' OO o o with explanations, we will here state certain points relative to the races which chiefly inhabit the northern provinces of Turkey-in-Europe — the Turks, the Greeks, and the Slavons. Throughout Turkey-in-Europe the name " Turk " is used to express a Mahometan ; the name " Greek " to denote a Christian of the Eastern Church. The idea

INTRODUCTION.

. XXIV that all the Christian population of Turkey is Greek by race, has of late been dissipated by persons careful to insist on the antipathy that really divides Slav from Hellene. Division also exists among the Mahometans. The Osmanlee, or real Turk, is in a very small minority, and is profoundly detested by Albanian and Slavonic Mussulmans, who make no secret of the fact that self interest alone has ever bound them to his cause, and that should the luck turn against him they would not be sorry to have the opportunity of repaying many a grudge. In Bulgaria there is a good sprinkling of Osmanlee town-residents, but in the western districts — Old S3rbia, Bosnia, and Herzegovina — it is generally said that they could be emptied of Osmanlees by simply recalling the officials and garrisons of towns.

Few positions are so difficult or so false as that of governors among a population whose language they cannot speak, and which detests their sway. No one, we should hope, would judge of Germans by the Austrian officials in Hungary, and one certainly would not judge the Turks as a nation from what is to be seen of them scattered here and there as governors of the Slavonic provinces. As the secular governors of the Porte in these pro vinces are Osmanlees, not Slavonic Mussulmans, so its ecclesiastical governors are Greeks, not Slavonic Chris tians. It was an eminent Philhellene, and one who cared very little for Slavic " barbarians," who first used to us the phrase " those corrupt Turkish officials, the Greek bishops in Bulgaria." Details that must be given in the following pages will but too strongly corroborate this description ; and if we had known Greeks only among their Slavic congregations in Turkey, we really should not feel that there was much to choose between them and the Osmanlee. The free Greeks have received hard enough measure both from English and French

INTRODUCTION.

. XXV writers, but in their own country they have at least the' right to occupy the land ; and those will judge most leni ently of their imperfections who know how great are their difficulties and temptations. It is otherwise with Greek rulers under Turkish rule, in provinces where the population is not Hellene ; there, having little or no right to be at all, they exhibit themselves in a doubly odious character, and are at once tyrants and slaves. For "old sakes' sake," one does not like calling them Greeks ; one would rather distinguish them as their free brethren do, by the name of " Phanariotes," taken from the pre lates' quarter in Stamboul. So much partisanship has crept into every discussion and every general description relating to Turkey in-Europe, that on matters of opinion it is all but im possible to arrive at any point whereon the opposing champions agree.

But when it comes to a citation of bare facts, we have never found any one deny that neglect and disorganisation, want of roads, and absence of security, exist under Turkish civil administration ; nor that superstition, ignorance, and unseemly dissensions prevail under Phanariote prelacy.""" The people who suffer under this state of things (and of whom perhaps the worst one can say is that they do suffer it), are the mass of the inhabitants of the country, by race Slavonic. Respecting them we had opportunity to satisfy ourselves of a fact which has more than once been questioned, and remained unanswered for want of information. From the Black Sea to the Adriatic, from the mouth of the Vardar to the Danube, the mass * On the subject of materi.il resources one of the last accounts we have read is Mr. Farley's, which, while giving the Government of Turkey the fullest credit for good intentions, aud pointing out how much can be done, describes the actual state of the empire just as it is described by Turkey's bitterest foes — a country without roads, canals, or harbours, and of which the resources are wasted by ill-managed taxation.

INTRODUCTION.

. XXVI of the population speaks, as its native language, the Slavonic tongue. To this rule Mahometans in Bosnia, and many of those in Bulgaria, form no exception. Four hundred years ago they gave up their fathers creed ; they would never give up their fathers' speech. Further, we convinced ourselves that, as the Bohemians had told us, the Slavonic tongue spoken in these regions has only two dialects of which the divergence is at all considerable. These two are the Serbo-Croat and the Bulgarian ; but even in them the difference lies in grammatical construction, their vocabulary being the same. Of course we do not here allude to such differences or resemblances as are appreciable by phi lologists, but to the practical point, how far what is said or written in either of these South Slavonic dialects is understood by the body of the people ?

In short, how far language really is, as they themselves say it is, a bond of unity 1 Of this practical resemblance we made some trials : 1st. Having learnt to read the national songs of Serbia, which are in the language of the common people, we tried to read a popular song of Bulgaria, and found that we could make out almost every word. 2nd. It twice happened to us to pass from Bulgarian into Serbian districts with servants who knew no Slavonic tongue except Bulgarian ; on both occasions we found that they conversed freely with the Serbs, alike in the Danubian principality and Montenegro.* That the Slavs of Turkey are now governed by Turks and Greeks, and that they are governed ill, are unfortu nately obvious facts. That, if delivered from Greeks and Turks, they could govern themselves any better, is a point still open to doubt — even among persons who agree with Mr. Palgrave, that " nationality * For Ami Boue's notice of the characteristics of Serbians and Bulga rians, see Appendix A.