South Africa: notes of travel. First gold exploring expedition into the Matabele country north of the Tatin River

Preface

. rFHE author of the following Notes of Travel, emerging -1- into public notice for the first time, feels somewhat embarrassed on taking this step, and is impelled by a deep sense of duty due to his native country, as well as that in which he had the pleasure of sojourning for eight years. The memoranda were taken merely for subsequent reference and personal use, but never intended for publi cation, and are now printed after considerable deliberation to gratify the often expressed desire of esteemed friends, in whose judgment the author reposes more confidence than in his own ability to perform the task satisfactorily. The object aimed at in making this venture is neither sordid, sinister, nor selfish, but simply a desire to diffuse a knowledge of facts that may help to dispel or remove groundless prejudice or ignorance entertained by various nations regarding Africa and her people.

While pursuing this purpose the author, in so far as circumstances permit or limited means afford, has spared no labour nor expense to render the work attractive to the reader and an offering worthy the acceptance of the public. As to scholastic attainments or literary merit he makes no presumptuous pretensions, but simply, briefly, and perspicuously states what he has got to relate as friend talking to friend. One of a large family, he was born on a small farm-stead ing in Argyleshire, of parents whose excellence will ever be esteemed. He served an apprenticeship as ship carpenter to Messrs. Robert Steel & Co., Greenock, the eminent Clyde shipbuilders, and afterwards made a voyage to VI

PREFACE.

. Pernambuco, during which his experiences ashore and afloat proved the reverse of all the poetry sung of a seafaring life. Shortly after returning home, the remarkable travels of Speke and Livingstone became the great topic of general interest. At once his latent passion for adventure was revived, and to gratify which, as well as improve his social position, left Scotland for Africa, and arrived in Durban towards the close of 1864, where he speedily obtained highly remunerative employment in the service of the Colonial Government, at that time busily engaged with extensive works to improve the harbour. After twelve months, under a virulent attack of dysentery his health gave way, and to restore which he sailed for the Kowie River, in the District of Albany, where he remained for three months.

The voyage hence and residence in this neighbourhood completely re-established his health, after which he returned overland to Port Elizabeth on his way to Durban, where he resumed his former occupation, and was thus employed when the Gold Exploring Expedition started for the Matabele country. During all this time no opportunity was lost to obtain a thorough knowledge of the country and its people ; and from experiences gathered in this manner his opinions were formed, and are now without hesitancy, along with Notes of the Expedition, most respectful^ submitted to the public. DUNCAN M'INTOSH. 6 Mount Pleasant Street, Greenock. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Pages

The Gold Fever Begins — Expedition Projected — Conflicting Rumours— Durban Gold Mining Company Formed — Generous Conduct of Friends — Equipment and Duties of the Company — Shepstone's Letter, ...... 1-7

Chapter II

First Night from Home — View from Camp — Pinetown — Maritzburg— Umgeni River — Hunting the Deer — A Happy Couple— The Doctor's First Case— Oxen Lost, .... 9-16

Chapter III

Start for Sterk Spruit — Sunday — Bushman River — Tugela River Forded — Colenso Town — The Drakensberg Ascended — Enter Harrismith — Molappo's Kraal— Game Flats — Dutch Farmhouse Visited — Ant-Bear, Porcupine, Fowls— Thorny Hill — Cronstadt — Vaal River Forded, .... 17-33

Chapter IV

Retrospect — Potchefstroom — Mooi River — Mr. Fleming — Sydenham Party — Paper versus Gold — Mr. Stamp and Friends- Wonderful Fountain — Gordon Cumming and Hartley — Hole Fountain — Hex River— Crocodile River — Magalesberg Mountains Crossed — The Elephant's Neck — Rustenberg, 34-58

Chapter XIV

Proceed to Inyati — Ramakoban River — M'Pacwe River — Herr Mauch on the Road — M'Kwesi River— M'Kobie Kopjes — Rocky Mountains— Limpopo and Zambesi Watershed — Manjama's Outpost — Central Gold Fields — Umkosi River — Large Kraal — Umbico's Kraal — Umganaguy — Impembesi Crossed, . 169-183

Chapter I

The Gold Fever Begins — Expedition Projected — Conflicting Rumours — Durban Gold Mining Company Formed — Generous Conduct of Friends — Equipment and Duties of the Company — Shepstone's Letter. rPHE first symptoms of the Gold Fever appeared in the "*■ seaport town of Durban, in the Colony of Port Natal, about the 20th July, 1867 ; and the spreading of this epidemic was due to the infectious influence of a lump of quartz, which had been sent from the interior of Africa to be exhibited in the town. A most wonderful piece of earth it was — indeed, so much so, that at once it became the leading subject of conversation everywhere : on the Exchange, in the Bazaar, at the workshop, and by the fireside the ever-recurring question was — "What of the Gold Fields?" By the potency of its spell the golden topic had attracted public notice sufficiently to draw together goldfmders of every nationality, some of whom possessed considerable Australian and Californian experience.

For this nugget's discovery and the present introduction to Africa's endless wealth, the world remains indebted to the labours of that indomitable Prussian traveller, Herr Mauch. Moreover, what had already been discovered and spoken of as found in Africa was said to be but a mere forecast of wealth stored there in utter uselessness, awaiting the advent of B more daring spirits possessed of sufficient enterprise and energy to usher it into the light of day. Many were the schemes concocted and plans projected to disclose these Rocks rich with ore, and mountains big with mines ! Numerous and various were the companies which were launched, and like children's soapy bubbles blown — to burst The Volunteer movement, about the same time, had attained great favour in Natal, not only as a means of defence, but also as a useful employment of leisure time, whereby to promote the physical and mental development of young men.

Of this description of military service in VIEW OF DURBAN. Durban there were two branches— Volunteer Rifles and Volunteer Artillery. The Artillery Corps seemed the more attractive, and an introduction for the traveller was ob tained by a fellow-countryman into a Battery under the command of Captain M'Neil, a native of Rothesay, which was generally reputed as containing the crack shots of the Colony of Natal. But be that as it may, this Scottish Corps, to say the least, were great favourites with the people, and on better acquaintance proved fully equal to the character accorded them. Some of the most intelli gent young men were found amongst them, with whom much time was profitably spent and many enduring friendships formed. Trade and commerce were now in a rather depressed state, from various causes, but chiefly from injudicious speculation and a desultory war between the Orange Free States and their neighbours, the Basutos, which had been going on for over two years,. affairs resulting in a sort of commercial panic.

It was while thus circumstanced that the wonderful stories about the Gold Fields came floating over the Colony, and so extended the gold fever — a fever, by the way, which has produced more rapid changes, and led to a larger amount of immigration into the different auriferous countries, than ever was effected by Acts of Parliament or subsidies from any Government — Thus shaping shadows of dim times to come In thoughtful minds forecasts a sea of glory ; Blessings for all, no longer heaped on some, Brighten the chapters of life's future story. But of all the schemes projected, or companies formed, none were found to excel that which had its origin amongst the crack shots of the Durban Volunteer Artillery; and, as was to be expected, from the time when the subject was first thought of by these men, various vicissitudes had occurred, although now all things seemed to issue for the best.

Some, who had joined our party on the spur of the moment, fear-stricken by the fluctuating news arriving day after day, were winnowed like chaff, leaving ten good true men to form the Durban Gold Mining Company. FORMATION OF THE COMPANY. Frequent and anxious were the conferences held, at which the whole subject of gold-finding was discussed, plans and details of procedure submitted for examination, until at last, when arrangements had been matured, preparations were entered upon and carried out with inde fatigable enthusiasm. It is but proper to mention that, in all these matters, the artillerists were much indebted to several gentlemen in the Colony for valuable assistance, but more especially to the able and excellent counsel of George Russell, Esq. This gentleman, who held a high legal position in the district, was known to all as a man of ability, integrity, and moral worth.

The laws of the Company, rivalling those of Sparta for perspicuity and the Code Napoleon for brevity, emanated principally from the forensic pen of this gentleman. Moreover, as soon as it became known what the laws were, and who the men were forming the Companjr, others followed his beneficent ex ample, and kindness flowed from every quarter. Amongst those was the Rev. John Buchanan, a gentleman of independent fortune, who had come to the Colony for the benefit of his health ; but who, on finding so many of his countrymen without a church or pastor, at his own risk and expense formed one, which for a time met in a hall. Under his pastorate this congregation very soon increased so much, that his people built for him one of the largest and finest churches in Durban. Not only as ;a spiritual guide did he talk of " heaven and lead the way," in his everyday life, but by counsel and kindly offices, seemed ever ready to do good ; besides, he was an eminent botanist, and delighted amongst the colonists to " consider the lilies how they grow."

As well as counsel and instruction, this gentleman presented the Company with a large number of valuable and useful books. A store in West Street was also placed at our service, wherein to collect the multifarious articles required for such an expedition, by Mr. W. Cowey. Other gentlemen contributed cash, either as gifts or loans, and all seemed to vie with each other in order to render the Expedition a grand success. In this manner the community expressed their approval of the men engaged in the undertaking, and showed how they deemed them well qualified to solve the enigma of the Gold Fields, which was now disturbing, like the apple of discord, the minds of the people of Natal. Meanwhile the Company, who were all well known to each other, were not idle, but with their own hands built their waggon, completed other fittings, and had well-nigh filled the store with a miscellaneous collection of goods, including arms, medicine, articles for sale or barter, various tools, «fcc.

Besides provisions of all sorts, there had also been purchased a team of eighteen oxen, which were in prime condition, and, in short, everything considered necessary for such an undertaking was now provided. STOCK OF THE COMPANY. The Stock of the Company was allotted in twenty-five pound shares, which gave a capital of two hundred and fifty pounds sterling ; but over and above this amount, the members each added still further to the capital, by way of loan, according to their ability, independent of the gratuities and advances of private friends. The Company, therefore, had no lack of means, and were thus enabled to provide themselves with many stores which otherwise would have been impracticable. Arrangements were nearing com pletion, when, with the assistance of our most worthy Secretary, George Russell, Esq., each member was allotted his respective duty, according to qualification.

It had been our good fortune, at the birth of the Company, to enlist the sympathies of the Captain of the Artillery Corps, and it was now a pleasure to honour him by electing him Captain of the Expedition, a post for which he proved himself throughout the journey thoroughly qualified. MEMBERS AND THEIR DUTIES. A list of the members of the Durban Gold Mining Company, who formed the Expedition, may be interesting, not only to the general reader in following our track, but also as a remembrancer to surviving members and friends of the Company, and was as follows : — 1. Archibald M'Neil, Esq., Captain. A native of Rothesay, Scotland, and late Chief Engineer in the Hon. East India Company. 2. William Davies, Lieutenant. Born in Africa, a joiner, who had served under Sir Walter Currie, and possessed great Colonial experience. 3.

George Bottomley, Chaplain and Doctor. A native of Yorkshire, England, farmer. 4. Henry Duncan, ship-carpenter, Perth, Scotland. 5. David Guthrie, blacksmith, Forfar, Scotland. 6. James Guthrie, backsmith, Forfar, Scotland. 7. William Rockey, ship-joiner, England. Had served throughout the Crimean War. 8. Henry Ogden, brick-builder, Lancashire, England. 9. Alexander Wills, waggon-builder, Dundee, Scotland. 10. Duncan M'Intosh, ship-carpenter, Argyllshire, Scotland. The Captain was invested with supreme command during the Expedition. Lieutenant had charge of all travelling arrangements — oxen, halting, marching, &c. Two stewards were charged with care of the provisions, weighing and serving out rations. One member had charge of the tent, to superintend pitching, striking, and stowing away the same.

The library, a most useful valuable collection, and the medicine chest, were under the control of the doctor. The remaining members were respectively charged with care of magazine, arms, tools, and articles for barter. The Captain was provided with one of the most perfectly reliable maps ofthe country through which we should pass, and each of the members possessed a good watch and pocket-compass. But, besides all these indispensable requisites, it must not be neglected here to state that the Honourable F. Shepstone, K.M.G., Secretary for Native Affairs, in the most handsome manner provided us with a letter of recommendation to all concerned. Still the tidings from the Gold Fields were becoming more conflicting. Some parties were finding larger nuggets, while others, disparagingly, were reducing the shiny lump, which had attracted so much attention on the 20th July, to a specimen of little value — au illusion — and the good Prussian's story as mythical.

All this, however, only made the people of Durban more anxious for our immediate departure, to examine and for ever set at rest the golden question, with regard to the subject of the ancient Gold Fields reported to have been discovered. Such conflicting rumours, doubtless, exercised a certain depressing influence upon our hopes ; still the members of the Expedition were men not to be deterred by idle talk from pursuing to its ultimate issue the grand object aimed at in the formation of the Durban Gold Mining Company, now that all things were ready for departure. WEST STREET, DURBAN.

Chapter II

The Departure — First Night from Home— Pinetown— Maritzburg— Umgerji River— A Happy Couple — The Doctor's First Case— Oxen Lost. r^EPARTURE is a word which comprises as" much of ■*-' human nature as almost any other in our language : by the magic spell of this word past joys are recalled, present sorrows are intensified, while future hopes, flicker ing, dance before one like Will-o'-the-wisp. An event of large import, therefore, was the departure of the Durban Gold Mining Company — it was a day long to be remem bered..and that day had now arrived. The inhabitants of the town were astir, for it was known to everybody that this was the day of departure of this enterprising band for a destination far beyond the bounds of European civilisation. At an early hour the little party of explorers met, and throughout the day were busily employed in transferring goods and merchandise from the store to the waggon, while at the same time everything was examined and carefully deposited in its place.

In this manner, energetically and diligently, were all hands at work until their task was completed. Meanwhile West Street, from end to end, had become lined by crowds of people. It was now about four o'clock on the afternoon of Wed nesday, the fourteenth day of October. 1868, when the beautiful standard of the Company was unfurled, and the order given to "trek" or start. At the first crack of the whip oxen and men were moving along, and then there burst forth a cheer which followed on until the last house had been passed. While wending our way, many, though brief, were the prayers uttered for our safety; frequent were the sighs heard, and often were seen the scalding, briny crystals drop, one by one, from glistening eyes. Still, amid and above all stifled utterance of sighs and regrets rang the echoing cheer ; while here and there the patriarch, the matron, and the maiden's wish — "God bless the lads" — fell tingling on our ears.

Not until well on in the Berea Road did the last of our lingering convoy begin to retrace their steps and leave us to pursue our pilgrimage. One cheer more, however, told us of their return, and here a brief halt was made to follow these friends with our gaze — look once more upon the quiet town of Durban, its glass-like bay and hoary sentinel, the Bluff. There was something bitingly touching felt by all of our party during this silent momentary halt. They who are left unto their homes returning, With musing step, trace o'er each bygone scene ; And they upon their journey, doth no yearning, No backward glance, revert to what hath been ? Yes ! for a while ; perchance, a tear-drop starting Dims the bright scenes that greet the eye and mind. Nevertheless, quietly we resumed our journey upwards and onwards to the bend near the brow of the hill, where we encamped for the first night.

FIRST ENCAMPMENT. From this spot could be seen upon the heights many mansions of the merchants of Durban, havinoorchards and gardens with patches of cleared land, whereon were thriving coffee and other crops. The [soil was quite different from that lower down, near the coast ; it was not sandy, but a rich mould. Long standing bush, burnt, withered, and scattered by tropical storms, with careful culture had effected this change. In these orchards and gardens fruits and vegetables were growing in abundance. But now it is near bed-time, and before goinoto rest it may be as well to say a word about the sleeping accommodation. Our tent was always, of course, pitched on the most eligible spot of earth we could find, and under the tent was our bed. Each member of the Company, before leaving Durban, had been provided with a large sheet of waterproof cloth, folded, strapped, and carried as a knapsack.

In this knapsack was a bag of the same material, containing two blankets. In rainy weather the sheet of waterproof served as a cloak ; at night, when the ten sheets were spread, they covered the floor of the tent ; and on this sheeting, or floorcloth, wrapped in the two blankets, sleep was found. At the same time, the bag, which had contained the blankets during the day, was now made to serve the double purpose of wardrobe and pillow. As a preventative measure, the covering of the whole floor of the tent proved to be an admirable arrangement, to which, under Providence, was due an almost entire immunity while travelling from fever and other contingencies. In some places in Africa, although the ground seems so dry as to be cracked with fissures, such dryness is an illusion ; for underneath the hard crust may be found a pool, if not a morass, of fermenting vegetable decompositions which, ascending, permeates through these fissures, and charges the surrounding atmosphere with disease and death.

Our floorcloth in a great measure prevented such deleterious gases from ascending into the tent, excepting at junction of the sheets. On striking our tent in the morning, evidence of these facts was abundant. It may therefore be allowed to suggest here, as an improvement, that a floorcloth of kamptulicon, er even common waterproof cloth, to cover the whole floor of the tent, having a hole in the centre for the tent-pole, closely fitted, would obviate danger from open seams, and the present waterproof might be retained, notwithstanding, as at present used. So after a sweet slumber, next morning we were again on the road for Pieter Maritzburg, and on passing through Pinetown, the good people were kind enough to come out to take a look at us. On, however, we went, having lost nothing by the stare, and in the evening encamped close by an inn, where we enjoyed somewhat beyond a dry smoke.

During the journey to Maritzburg our evenings were fully employed in studying subjects belonging to domestic economy, which, although apparently simple in theory, were found anything but easy in practice, such as baking, cooking, washing, and so on. But baking was the great desideratum, and of it there will be occasion to speak afterwards. We carried with us our stock of wheat, because it was less liable to injury than flour ; and for grinding the wheat we had an excellent mill, attachable to the waggon-wheel or a tree. In discussing these matters time was happily spent until we reached Maritzburg. In Maritzburg we had to wait a day or two, for Captain M'Neil was left behind at Durban, there to arrange the con duct of his works and other private business of importance during his absence with the Expedition into the interior.

Here, also, there were further stores to be provided and goods purchased, which had been omitted in order to lighten the uphill burden, and enable us the more easily to get along. However, here the Captain, along with our worthy Secretaiy, Mr Russell, came up in the stage-coach, and right glad we were all to see them. Extra stores and other arrangements were then completed without delay, and the order given to start. However, before leaving, it may be as well to state that Pieter Maritzburg is the capital of the Colony of Natal, where is the House of Assembly, Government Offices, and other public buildings. The Barracks is large and clean looking. Its churches and schools are generally elegant and commodious. The streets are broad and lined with shops, stores, and warehouses of every variety.

Many of the private houses may be described as mansions of the first class, while others will contrast favourably with the generality of houses in any city at home. In elevation it is 3000 feet above the level of the sea, enjoys pure air and water. As to the water, which is abundant as well as pure, it is supplied not through pipes of iron or lead, but the good old conservative clay pipe. At convenient intermediate distances these pipes have wells or scuttle-holes, of con siderable depth and breadth, which admit of the people drawing water readily, and when not used, are usually covered ; but not always so, for one night one of our com rades, returning from posting letters, accidentally stepped into one, which was some fifteen feet deep, and no little difficulty was experienced in fishing him out.

Where lades cross the roads, they are permanently covered in. Alto gether, Pieter Maritzburg is a fine town, orderly, clean, and well kept. Its public market is abundantly stocked and extensively patronised. On leaving Maritzburg, Captain M'Neil assumed the command, and, in company with Mr. Russell, led the way onward to top of the Town Hill. Our worthy Secretary never appeared to better advantage than he did on this occasion. His manly figure, quick perception, ready wit, and genial manner, endeared him to us now more than ever, and the general regret was that we could not have him along with us all the way. At the top of the Town Hill Mr. Russell bade us an affectionate farewell, to return to Durban and resume the onerous duties belonging to his station as a sheriff. Shortly after parting with our friend, and on turning a corner too sharply, the disselboom of the waggon was snapped near to the stock.

It was our first accident, and but a trifling affair in the hands of so many skilled work men, who speedily put it to rights. On the left hand side of the road, away up on a hill side, sparkling in light and shade, the Umgeni came rolling down to our feet. It was the same river on the banks of which we had seen, although at a different point of view and period of time, youth and innocence happily engaged in all the fun and frolic of their Sunday-school pic-nic. But hold! Upstarts a bok almost at our side, after which there was a chase, more comical and exhilarating than suc cessful. A pack of mongrel dogs, all srzes and colours, were let loose; they yelped at each other, while the huntsmen were laughing and tumbling over them. Meanwhile the bok skipped gracefully on, as if scorning the presumption of her breathless, impotent pursuers.

We had by this time crossed the Umgeni, and were on our way to the Lion River, merrily chatting of the Tatin and Northern Gold Fields. That night, by a rivulet of purest water we pitched our tent. It was a picturesque, lovely spot! In the distance the frowning mountains of the Drakensberg, with their hoary snow-capped heads, were now in view, and over these before long we must find our way. At this beautiful neuk all were busily employed at their respective duties, preparing for the night; the tent had been pitched and the fire was beginning to brighten, when dashing on there came Mr. and Mrs. M of the Berea Road. This was indeed a surprise! Who would have thought to meet them here? They halted, dismounted, partook of our hospitality, and honoured us with the pleasure of their excellent company for an hour.

After which, light as a sylph sprang the lady to the saddle, the husband followed suite, and with a hearty laughing goodbye they were off again. We had now been over a week on the road, and every succeeding day found us rising higher and higher on the Highlands of Natal, where was neither swamp nor morass, but pure air and water. Still, notwithstanding these advantages, sickness will occur in the best organised camps, as do other misadventures in the best regulated families. Our Berea friends had scarcely got out of sight, when it was reported that one of our number had suddenly fallen sick. On approaching the sufferer, he exhibited a twitching of the facial muscles, extreme elongation of countenance, and other symptoms equally portentous. Certainly he was not yet dead: but, from his lugubrious aspect, seemed to think such an eventuality proximate.

Under these circumstances, therefore, some were busily engaged sympathising, while a more practical friend went off to find Doctor Bottomley, who had gone to the Kettle Fontein in search of rare botanical specimens. Hastily, all of a sweat, the doctor returned, assumed a serious priest-like look, turned his coat-cuffs slowly up, and gropingly laid his fingers upon the irregularly palpitating blood-vessel. With the utmost imperturbability he desired to scrutinise "the root of all evil " — the tongue ! A silent pause ensued. A wise look ; and then, — "Ahem. That will do." The doctor, returning his watch to its pocket, put to his patient a host of questions. " What had you for dinner ? How is your bowels ? Have you been drinking native beer 1 " and such like. On all these interrogatories being answered satisfactorily, the doctor then started for his medicine-chest, and speedily returned with a flowing bumper of — black jack.

The potion was duly administered, and the result took us all by surprise; for, most wonderful to relate, convalescence and recovery had taken place before there was time to prepare the patient's beef-tea. Now, this was the doctor's first case, and from such successful treatment he had thereby proved himself worthy of his highly responsible appointment as Medicine-man to the Durban Gold Mining Company. In demeanour the doctor was circumspect, and he looked as wise as any other practitioner, whose prescriptions mainly depend upon the dubious truth or fallacy of what the patient relates as to his condition. Events now came crowding upon us, and it may be as well to note them as they occurred : Last night we had company, therefore our humble tent became a banqueting hall; after that an hospital, and the theatre of a first medical practice by a gentleman who had never walked the hospitals of Paris, London, or Edinburgh.

As a village on a very small scale, our camp had been deserted by the bovine members ofthe Company; they had taken advantage of our absorbment in business to leave for pastures green and meadows new, without having obtained the liberty of a pass ; for while engrossed with the company of our visitors and the distress of our brother, there was no time to think of oxen, and they were not then missed. On the following morning, however, the 24th day of October, we had struck the tent, and had got everything almost ready, when the cry was heard — where were the oxen? Lively as a sportive flea was our Lieutenant while giving orders to everybody, and everybody was everywhere as well as himself: up over the hill, down in the valley, all round the tent, in every corner and cave ; but no bullocks were to be seen or found by anybody.

Now, they were allowed to be very fine cattle, had cost a big price, and it would never do to let them have all their own way after this manner, much better would it be to make "biltong" of them. If not that, when found they must be taught to mend their manners for the future. All the scouts had returned without any intelli gence of the lost ones, and what could be done without oxen? But hark! What noise was that? It was the music of the prodigals' return! There they came, slowly, as if marking time to the " Dead March " in Saul, and with faces as long as hired mutes in a funeral procession. A poor fellow, to whom we had shown kindness the previous night, found them -wandering somewhat ahead of us, and considerately brought them back. At such a peaceful spectacle of bovine humility our better natures rose to the mastery, and thoughts of vindictive summary retribution gave place to joy and kindness at their safe return. We did not fall upon their necks, however, but the yokes did, and we started for the village of Sterk Spruit.