Garibaldi at Home: notes of a visit to Caprera

Preface

. SPHERE are some events in the lives of most men which make strong impressions on their minds — impressions the durability of which must depend chiefly on the aid which they receive from memory. However, as that faculty is not always a faithful guardian of the past, even with regard to events quite out of the ordinary routine of a person's life, and more than usually interesting to him, a desire to commit to print such recollections as one may desire to preserve appears at once natural and reasonable. The author's sojourn with Garibaldi in his home at Caprera, his introduction to some of that distinguished man's honoured associates at Genoa, and his passage through scenes of beauty on his VI

PREFACE.

. way to the Straits of Bonifacio, have made impressions on his mind which he is anxious to preserve in all their original distinctness, uneffaced and even unimpaired by the hand of time ; and this desire was the motive which induced him to write a short narrative of his excursion. The author's journey was not altogether of a private nature. -The subscribers in London and its environs for a yacht to the ex-Dictator of Naples deputed him to proceed last winter to Caprera, as the bearer of their request that the noble inhabitant of that island would be pleased to accept their present. To cross the Alps, the Apennines, and the ocean for such a purpose was an agreeable duty to the present writer ; and the recollection of that journey will be rendered still more pleasing to him if the following brief narrative should prove acceptable to his readers. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

A Suitable Mark of Esteem for Garibaldi — Determination to present him with a Yacht — Commencement of my Journey to Italy — Calais to Paris by Railway — The Rues Castiglione and Rivoli — Railway from Paris to St. Michel — Ma(*on — Lamartine — The Charms of Nature — Savoy — Alpine Scenery — Thoughts suggested by the Scenes through which I passed — My Companions across the Pass of Mont Cenis — The Arc — Susa — From Turin to Genoa — Asti — Genoa la superba — The Church of the Annunziata — Nature and Art — Leghorn — Secure a Passage for the Maddalena — On board the Umbria — Capraja — -An Italian Professor — Capo dell' Orso, and other Islands — The Progenitors of Garibaldi — Arrival at Caprera 3

Chapter II

Garibaldi at Home — Presentation of Addresses — Subscribers for the Yacht — Tlie Greatness of London — A Musical Evening — Major Specchj — Tlie Wind at Caprera — On Board the Yacht — A Dangerous Channel — Garibaldi's Seamanship — Tavolara — The Goats of the Island — Its Population — Extemporizing a Dinner — Sardinia — Night in the Gulf of Congianus — A Conversation on Books — Ugo Foscolo — Tasso — Milton's Imitations of the " Gerusalemme Liberata" — Addison's Criticisms — Chase for a Sard — A Sardinian Cottage — The Influence of Garibaldi— Company at Dinner — Conversation with Garibaldi on South America — Rosas — The Great Liberator as a Sea- Captain — The Island of Santa Sophia — I Perduti— End of the First Cruise — Garibaldi's Island Home. . . CONTENTS.

Chapter III

The Lentisk— Scio under Genoese Government— Revenue derived from Gum-mastic — Cause of the Loss of Scio — Pliny on the Healing Powers of Lentisk— Its Value in the Arts and Manufactures—The Maddalena— Why Garibaldi fixed his Home in Caprera — Longevity in the Maddalena— Porto Pullo — The First House built in Caprera — Rape Of the Women of the Maddalena— The Maddalena and Neighbouring Islands appropriated by Sardinia — Formation of a Naval Depot — The Roads of Agincourt — The Mountain Tejalone — Good Company while Reading— The Cavallo— A Flock of Bishops in Sardinia — Silence of History regarding Caprera — Capraja — Climate and Soil of Caprera — Cultivation of Cotton in Sardinia retarded by the Ignorance and Intolerance of its Inhabitants — Garibaldi's Desire for the Increase of Commerce with England — Chutnee — Garibaldi's Description of the Mango Tree— Fresh Milk 85

Chapter IV

Conversations with Garibaldi — A Relic of Anita — Garibaldi on the Brazilian Coast — Loss of the Rio Pardo — Gallant Conduct of Garibaldi — A Cottage in the Province of St. Catherine — Garibaldi's Courtship and Marriage — A Novel Honeymoon Excursion— A Sea-Fight — Fortitude and Bravery of Anita — Encounter on the Lake of Imerui — Conveying Stores ashore — Care of the Wounded — Made Prisoner at the Battle of Santa Vittoria — Romantic Escape — Dangerous Journey in search of Garibaldi — Menotti's Birth and Roughly-cradled Infancy — Journey through the Gloomy Forest Das Antas — Garibaldi's Return to Italy — Surrender of Rome and Departure of the Patriot Chief — Death of Anita — Menotti's Herculean Strength — Riciotti and his Favourite Pursuits — Teresa — Impolicy of Intolerance — Garibaldi's Aversion to Popery — Extract from his Speech at Palermo — Wounded and Captured by the Troops of Rosas — Unremitting Care of a Young Military Surgeon — Tortured by an Officer of Rosas — The General's Affability — His Guests — Departure from Caprera CONTENTS. IX

Chapter V

Across the Straits of Bonifacio — Unwillingness of the Boatmen to go to Sea — Sail to the Maddalena — An English Officer's Invitation to Dinner — His Excellent Wine and Interesting Conversation — The Wine of Sardinia — The Anniversary of Saint Andrew — Delayed by the " Tramontana" — The Captain's Land Excursion — A Proposed Change of Route — Scenery in the Straits of Bonifacio — Last Sight of Caprera — Steering amid a Labyrinth of Small Islands — Loss of an Italian Frigate on the Lavazzi — Exploits of the Marquis of Bonifacio — The Monuments of a Great Name — Speculations on the Destiny of Corsica and Sardinia — The Resources of Sardinia — Proposed Railway from North to South — Spaniards in Sardinia — Vote of the Italian Parliament to an English Railway Company — The Coast of Corsica — Off Bastia — Arrival at Leghorn — The Riviera di Levante — Construction of a Naval Depot at Spezia — Genoa and the Dorias . . . 155

Chapter VI

Conversation with Pietro Ripari — His Imprisonment by the Papal Government — His Fellow-Prisoners in the Carceri Nuove — His Removal to the Prison of St. Michel — Irreverent Reception of two Ecclesiastical Dignitaries — Means taken to prevent a Repetition of the Offence — Ripari's Condemnation to the Galleys — His Imprisonment at Ancona, Rome, and Palliano — His Removal to Marseilles — The Inhumanity of the " Vi*car of Christ" — The Conversation of Colonel C e — Garibaldi's Invasion of Naples — Events of the Sicilian Campaign — The Condition of Genoa — Its Palaces and their Picture Galleries — Purchase of Coral Ornaments — Dangers of the Coral Fishery — Garibaldi's Wound — Unfavourable Symptoms produced by his Removal — Extraction of the Bullet — Excursion to Chiavari — Garibaldi's Descent — The Oranges of Nervi — Aspect of Genoa — Commemoration of its Deliverance from Austrian Oppression — The Noble Conduct of Lomellini — Reminiscences of the Youth of Garibaldi . . . X CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

The Waldensian Church and Service— Antiquity of the Church of the Vaudois— "The Men of the Valley" denounced in Ancient Roman Catholic Manuscripts— Tlie Institution of Monasteries —Opposition to Innovations in Forms of Worship— Heresies denounced by the Council of Arras — Persecutions of the Vaudois in 1665 arrested by Cromwell— Religious Toleration in Italy— The Useful Labours of Sir Samuel Morland— His History of the Evangelical Churches of the Valleys of Piedmont — The Religious Principles of the Vaudois — Their Persecutors —Contradictory Edicts of the Dukes of Savoy — Their Ingratitude to their Vaudois Subjects — Conformity between the Doctrines of the Roman Church of the Fourth Century and those of the Waldensian Churches — Toleration shown by the Bishops of Lyons, Turin, and Milan — Imputations on the Integrity of Sir Samuel Morland — Recent Increase in the Number of Waldensian Churches . . . .221 CHAPTER VHI.

The Doctrines ofthe Waldensian Church — Sacraments— Justification by Faith alone — Good Works — Election and Free Will — The Fall of Man — The Atonement — The Great Council of Nicæa — Arius, Athanasius, and Constantine — The Three Persons of the Trinity — Opinions regarding the Church — Its Ministers and Government — The Waldensian Form of Worship — Milton on Instrumental Music and Incense in Churches — The Forbearance and Charity of the Waldenses — The Sabbath and Holy Days — The Seventh Book of " Paradise Lost" a Paraphrase of the First Chapter of Genesis — Opposition of the Waldenses to Legislative Enactments for the Observance of Sunday — The Invocation of Saints and Angels — The Sincerity and Resolution of the Vaudois in the Maintenance of their Faith — Their Humanity to their Enemies in War 241

Chapter IX

Sir Samuel Morland — His Connection with Cromwell and with the Royalists — Sir Richard Willis's Plot — Particulars of the CONTENTS. XI Conspiracy overheard by Sir Samuel Morland— His Narrow Escape, and Determination to divulge the Plot— The Murder of Charles II. prevented — Reasons for doubting the Reality of this Plot— Alleged Visit of Morland to the King at Breda — The Date of Morland's Knighthood — Two Interesting Manuscripts — Reasons for the Honours conferred on Morland — Particulars from an Unpublished Autobiography — Perplexity of Morland on the Discovery of the Plot — Despatch of Major Henshaw to Charles in Holland — The Conspiracy frustrated — Character and Abilities of Sir Samuel Morland — The Route from Genoa to England — The Three Valleys of the Vaudois — Determine to return Home by the Pass of Mont Cenis 271

Chapter X

Scenery between Genoa and Serravalle — The Scrivia — The Bormida and Tanaro — From Asti to Turin — An Article in " the Leading Journal" — The Pass of Mont Cenis — Accident to "the Diligence" — Susa— A Lofty Mountain — Descent of the Alps in Sledges — Lanslebourg — Morning in the Alps — The Frozen Arc — Persecution of the Vaudois — Arnaud — The Colour of the Arc — An Alpine Citadel — French Soldiers — The Conquerors of the Alps — A Tunnel through the Alps — The Source of the Arc — The Scenery in the Neighbourhood of St. Michel — The Railway through Savoy — Feudal Castles in Burgundy — Effects of the Subdivision of Property in France — From the Alps to Folkestone — The Aspects of Nature — The Attractions of Sardinia — The Independence and Disinterestedness of Garibaldi — His Intellectual Abilities and Moral Character

Chapter I

A SUITABLE MARK OF ESTEEM FOR GARIBALDI — DETERMINATION TO PRE SENT HIM WITH A YACHT — COMMENCEMENT OF MY JOURNEY TO ITALY — CALAIS TO PARIS BY RAILWAY THE RUES CASTIGLIONE AND RIVOLI — RAILWAY FROM PARIS TO ST. MICHEL — MAQON — LAMARTINE — THE CHARMS OF NATURE — SAVOY — ALPINE SCENERY — THOUGHTS SUGGESTED BY THE SCENES THROUGH WHICH I PASSED— MY COM PANIONS ACROSS THE PASS OF MONT CENIS — THE ARC — SUSA — FROM TURIN TO GENOA ASTI GENOA LA SUPERBA THE CHURCH OF THE ANNUNZIATA — NATURE AND ART — LEGHORN — SECURE A PASSAGE FOR THE MADDALENA — ON BOARD THE " UMBRIA " — CAPRAJA — AN ITALIAN PROFESSOR — CAPO DELL' ORSO, AND OTHER ISLANDS THE PROGENITORS OF GARIBALDI — ARRIVAL AT CAPRERA. i;

CHAPTER I. TN

the year 1864, some of General Garibaldi's innumerable admirers decided on presenting to him a suitable mark of their esteem. Perhaps their chief difficulty consisted in the General's well known aversion to receive even the semblance of a reward, or to lie under any personal obligation for the great benefits which he had bestowed on millions. If, therefore, the intended present should be one of magnitude, it would doubtless be refused. Fortunately it was decided to offer him a well built and fast-sailing yacht of fifty tons. By his acceptance of such a present, the lofty spirit of Garibaldi could suffer no abatement of dignity. By his refusal of it, the feelings of his disinterested admirers would be wounded ; and from giving this unnecessary pain, the gentle spirit of Garibaldi would naturally recoil.

As to his tastes, they are D A PRESENT TO GARIBALDI. maritime. As to his abode in Caprera, that island is only five miles long and two broad. There are numerous islands in its vicinity, but between Caprera and those islands scarcely any communi cation exists. In such a place of abode, a vessel must be far more necessary than a carriage would be in many other places. In short, the present was in every way suitable and appropriate. I shared so little in the labour or trouble connected with this present, that I can afford to praise it without the imputation of prejudice or vanity. On me devolved only the pleasing and easy duty of going out to Caprera with two addresses. Cer tainly my equanimity was destroyed before going, by seeing repeatedly in print the news, as it was called, that Garibaldi had refused the yacht.

There was fortunately at Caprera an English Colonel, who held a good position in England, and also a good place in the General's esteem. Therefore, I com forted myself with thinking that the English Colonel would eradicate from the General's mind the effects of all erroneous representations about the yacht. As for the Alps in November and December, the DEPARTURE FROM LONDON. 5 passage of them would be bracing, invigorating, and altogether delightful. But here, lest it should escape me, let me remark that I have seen far more snow in Italy than in England this winter. Snow was rarely out of my sight after quitting England, and cold indeed were the gusts of wind from the Alps, the Apennines, and the Corsiean mountains. I left London on that day when a new ruler or Mayor ascends the vacant city throne.

It was -a day of " Pomp without guilt, of bloodless swords and maces, Glad chains, warm furs, broad banners, aud broad faces." It was not, however, until nine o'clock in the evening that I quitted London. My desire being to reach Caprera as quickly as possi ble, I continued travelling during those hours when " Mayor and Sheriffs hushed and satiate lay, But eat in dreams the custards of the day." I cannot, however, quote these lines of the FROM DOVER TO CALATS, poet, who often took pleasure in sneering at digni ties, without expressing my opinion that few men arrive at high positions in such a city as London without first going through an ordeal which must severely try their merits and test their qualifica tions. Therefore, I hold in much esteem the Mayor and Sheriffs of the great metropolis.

A little before midnight, on the 9 th of No vember, I stepped on board the steamboat at Dover. The sea had a glassy appearance, and so fine was the weather, that I now believe it ac celerated my recovery from a slight accident. Soon afterwards, while I was whirling from Calais to Paris by the railway, I thought of the sensa tions of those guests, among the numerous as semblage at the banquet the night before, who might have been abandoning themselves to two basins of turtle soup, and other vain pleasures, forgetful of the proverb, that " S'abstenir pour jouir, c'est l'epicurisme de la raison." The fumes of excess are not so soon dispelled as the shades of night. So thought I while the sun was rising, and soon afterwards I arrived in Paris. Here I PARIS 7 regretted to find the opportunities of locomotion less frequent in November than in the months of summer.

I was thus unable till the evening to continue my journey. Part of the time during which I was detained in Paris, was spent in wandering about the streets which bear the names of those famous battles, Rivoli and Castiglione, also the Rue de la Paix, and the Place de la Concorde. Castiglione brought to my mind events in the histories of the present, and also of the great Napoleon. It was the victory obtained there by the French arms which both tempted and enabled Napoleon the First to overrun Venetia, and attain those successes, the first chapter of which terminated with the peace of Campo Formio. It was tbe victory obtained in the im mediate neighbourhood of Castiglione, viz., at Solferino, by the French and Piedmontese troops, which induced the present Napoleon not to penetrate into Venetia, but to annex Nice and Savoy to France as a reward for his aid to Victor Emmanuel.

From the Rue Castiglione my thoughts soon MAQON, afterwards were turned towards the Place de la Bastille and the Rue St. Jacques, which I had traversed with interest at the time of Cavaignac's advent to power, in June, 1848, walking then over heaps of rubbish and traces of havoc, and also gazing at houses riddled by shot, but devoid of windows, and much besides. For a short time I indulged my memory with these past scenes, and then I directed my thoughts, but not my steps, towards the Rue de la Paix and the Place de la Concorde, with a sincere desire that these two last places might be in the best sense of the word enlarged. These thoughts led me to wish that the present ruler of France, whether he has swum to Empire through the purple flood of a coup d'etat or not, might cease to meddle in the affairs of his neighbours; and also that, by devoting his great talents to the public good, he might prove himself henceforth both the friend of liberty and the Napoleon of peace.

A few hours after sunset I entered the rail way carriage on the line which connects Paris with St. Michel in Savoy. Sometime before LAMARTINE. 9 sunrise next day the train reached Maqon, and here I had the pleasure of drinking a cup of warm coffee. That beverage, which is very agreeable to my taste, was especially refreshing to me on a cold morning in November. After drinking the coffee, I was reminded of the wine of Macon, which is a light kind of Burgundy ; but I did not feel any inclination to compare its strength with that of the coffee. It is said that Macon is celebrated for its wine, but it is far more justly distinguished for being the birthplace of the historian, poet, and politician, Lamartine. It had been my fate to arrive in Paris in the summer of the year 1848, a few days after Lamartine's retirement from office, and then to find his name rather deserted by that popularity which rarely fails to attend success.

During the spring of that year the aura populates was strongly in his favour ; but the gale of popularity is per haps more fickle and changeable than the wind; and in the case of Lamartine it had shifted so completely, that he became very unpopular in the month of June, 1848, at Paris. However, BOURG the people of Maqon, although they once rejected him as their representative, have generally shewn more respect for him than the Parisians ; and Lamartine has also expressed feelings of attach ment to the place of his birth in lines of beautiful and enduring poetry. Leaving Maqon, we soon approached Bourg, which can also boast of being the birthplace of a great man ; not of a poet like Lamartine, but of the celebrated astronomer, Lelande. Then we whirled past a number of villages diminishing apparently in size, but increasing much in beauty of situation.

The monotony of la belle France gradually gave way to rocks and ruined castles, while many a gushing stream intersected the long and winding valleys through which we were hastening. On either side of these valleys the heights as we advanced seemed to become more steep and lofty. Oftentimes they stood almost in front of us, as if to bar our onward course ; but the curves on this line of railway being numerous, the carriages whirled easily through these rocky labyrinths. AMBERIEUX, 11 This mode of travelling, though it may be un favourable to viewing scenery, was well suited to ray purpose, which was to reach Caprera speedily, and yet it gave me opportunities, though short and transient, of enjoying those charms which Nature had scattered with so much liberality around me. How pure and valuable are her gifts, and how profuse is she of them !

So thought I, as I looked at the little village of Amberieux lying close to the base of a rock which is sur mounted by the ruins of an old castle. Then I looked at the terraces of vineyards, and I could not help thinking what a relief they must be, when in their autumnal bloom, to the dark colour of the huge masses of overhanging rock which we saw in all directions near Amberieux. At that place we were near the foot of the Jura mountains, and soon after leaving it we began to enter the valley of the Rhone. In a short time we were in Savoy, and then, after passing Chambery, together with a few other places, we came in view of the lake of Bourget. Between its crystal waters and the numerous MOUNTAIN SCENERY. rugged mountains which look down upon it, the contrast was remarkable. All save this placid lake was wild, but as we penetrated further into Savoy the wildness of the scenery greatly in creased.

The earth seemed as if it were swelling or heaving with grandeur, while around us moun tains, like giants of nature, capped with snow, and encircled with clouds, appeared to stand as sentinels to the mighty Alps. Occasionally 1 fixed my eye on some mountain which towered eminently high. A cloud at first seemed to conceal its sum mit, but it only seemed, for that summit on a second look was seen emerging high above the cloud. My eye then became wearied in tracing that height which Nature apparently had contrived, as if to show how earth might pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below. This diorama of the scenery of nature ceased moving for about half an hour, and during this interval the passengers remained at the small village of St. Michel, on the banks of the swiftly flowing river Arc. The grandeur which there surrounded us was sufficient to expand the spirit THOUGHTS SUGGESTED BY IT. 13 and delight the eye.

As for me, the thoughts of the present seemed to mingle themselves in my mind both with those of the past and those of the future. The mountains which rose thousands of feet above me, made me think of the mountain majesty of worth of that unbought warrior whose unambitious heart and hand had gained so many stainless victories in true glory's cause. The swift and arrowy Arc, with its clear blue wave dashing irresistibly over the huge masses of rock, which vainly tried to check its progress, made me think of the triumphs over difficulties, apparently insurmountable, which that same un bought warrior had achieved in freedom's cause. The Alpine snows far above me, with their im perishable purity, made me think of that unsullied name which shall, from its own bright immortality, look down on the names of those despots, whose tyranny is now crushing, as far as possible, the "gift divine" to man of speech and thought, and whose deeds, therefore, will darken the page of history.

In short, the absence of art at St. Michel, and its vicinity to the palaces of Nature, as THE CHAMPION OF LIBERTY. an English poet calls the Alps, made me, while resting there, think of the natural simplicity and greatness of that warrior in a good cause whom I had left England to visit. The term warrior may suggest the idea of terror ; but Nature also, though profuse of her gifts, is not always smiling, and in her icy halls of the Alps, where she forms the avalanche, she may seem awful and terrible. Yet even there she is generous, and repeatedly have her Alpine recesses proved a safe retreat and stronghold to the Waldenses against the fury of their enemies. After dwelling on the goodness of Nature, my thoughts turned again to that character in which is blended so much of force, gentleness, and dignity.

Thus, instead of those Alpine rocks which had formerly sheltered the Waldenses, I thought of the great modern champion of the oppressed, whose firmness, though often tried, has never once been moved by the violent shock of battle. Instead of Alpine snows, I thought of the patriot whose moral purity, or, as an Eng lish writer calls it, whiteness of soul, has given strength and dignity to the cause of freedom. I FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 15 thought of the conqueror whose gentleness has invariably recoiled at acts of cruelty, and of the Dictator whose moderation has shrunk from any excess of power. In short, I thought of Gari baldi. At length the diligences were ready for conveying us across the pass of Mont Cenis. The carriage which I entered was well packed, and its contents were varied. In front of me were a Spanish priest, a German lady, and an Italian gentleman ; while on the same side as myself were a Scotchman and a Frenchman.

The priest, who was on his way to Rome, and not to Caprera, de nounced liberal opinions as " cose brutte." He had left Madrid about the same time as I quitted London. The Scotchman was going to Leghorn. He was a member of the Presbyterian Free Church, but, as may be supposed, he did not obtrude his religious opinions on the mind of the Spanish Romanist. The German lady talked a little about Goethe, and the Italian gentleman about Ossian, whose works have been ably trans lated by Cesarotti. Possibly the works of that THE ARC. poet may not have seemed altogether unsuited to the grandeur of those scenes amid which our con veyance began to toil upwards after leaving St. Michel. Soon after we commenced ascending, fir-trees became scanty, and gradually all trace of vegeta tion disappeared. However, the monotony of snow and bleakness was interrupted by lofty cas cades, whose volumes of water dashed impetuously downwards.

It was also interrupted by a river ; though the etymology of that word must convey an imperfect idea of the Arc, which cannot be said to flow so much as to rush downwards from its native glaciers. Repeatedly we crossed and re crossed the bridges which span its stormy current. Oftentimes we were sufficiently near it to observe the foam which rose upward, and which seemed to mark its encounter with some huge rock. Doubt less the Arc, while vehemently hastening down to meet the Iser, shatters many a large rock, and probably the roar of its waters is occasionally increased by these encounters. What a fine break to the general silence of these Alpine regions must ASCENT OF THE PASS. 17 be the sound of waters, whether of rivers, torrents, or cascades ! Thus thought I, while gazing at the Arc, till its wild beauties became veiled in the darkness of night.

A few hours after sunset our ascent was re tarded by the snow. Sometimes the horses stood still, and sometimes they swung our diligence from one side of the road to the other. This performance of swinging, though done gently, seemed to affect the nerves of one of the passengers ; even to the extent of thinking that he might be flung or swung into a chasm. When we were near the sum mit of the pass, which is almost seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, the animals halted, and showed great reluctance to proceed. As it was somewhat a cold resting-place in the month of November, and about the hour of midnight, I was glad when we moved onward. Soon after starting from this elevated halting place, we began to hasten downwards by zigzag roads till we reached Susa, where we waited per haps more than an hour the opportunity of going by railway to Turin.

As for Susa, it then apc ASTI peared dirty, dark, and dismal. However, a few hours before daybreak in the month of November is neither the time nor the season when any place is to be seen very advantageously. As soon as the railway carriages were ready to convey us we left Susa for Turin, where we arrived between three and four o'clock in the morning. I do not know what became of the Spanish priest and the Scotch Presbyterian, or of the rest of the passengers, at Turin ; but after the lapse of two hours there I hastened on to Genoa. Between the old capital of Piedmont and the far more ancient capital of the Ligurian Republic the line of railway passes through a country partly abounding and partly deficient in beauty. The morning, however, was too dark for the enjoyment of scenery. The first station of importance at which we stopped was Asti, which has a twofold celebrity ; being remarkable for giving birth to Alfieri, the poet, and also for producing one of the best of the Italian wines.

Yet this wine, though renowned in Italy, must be rather cooling for the climate of Piedmont, especially during the months ALFIERI. of winter. However, if the wine of Asti be cold the temperament of its poet Alfieri appears to have been quite the reverse. Great, indeed, seems to have been the fermentation, not of the juice of the grape at Asti, but of the brain of Alfieri, during the time of the French Revolution, at the close of the eighteenth century. His passions were ardent. He hated the principles of Frenchmen, and he admired the beauty of Prince Charles's widow, to whom it is said he was privately married. While I was reflecting on this connection of Alfieri with the widow of a Prince of the House of Stuart, the train halted at the station of Alles sandria, in the centre of a level country, and near the banks of a muddy part of the river Tanaro.