Preface
. The reader must not expect to find in the following work any of that polish which gives so much beauty and elegance to the compositions of polite literature. The author having spent a great portion of his past life amid the whirl and excitement of travel and adventure, he had neither time nor opportunity to give his mind a literary training. During the period of his service in the army, the duties of his situation were necessarily more his study than literature or the peaceful arts. It was, therefore, the force of circumstances, rather than literary skill or desire for literary fame, which induced him to compile the following plain and unpretending narrative. But though rude in its composition, the author hopes there will be nothing found in it offen^ sive to good taste, or which will make it an unwelcome occupant of the mansion as well as the cottage. VI
PREFACE.
. Considering the social position of the writer, a few words may be necessary to explain his motive for coming before the public. While serving abroad, he had, through occasional exposure, been subjected to several severe attacks of rheumatism, which so affected his bodily frame, as to render him, on his return home, utterly unfit for longer service ; and, although at that time he was pay-sergeant of a company, being conscious of his inability to perform the duties of this favourable position in a satisfactory manner, he pur chased his discharge, after eleven years' service. Re peated attacks of rheumatism, however, totally incapaci tated him for any occupation which required physical exertion. Having been accustomed to a life of activity, he felt that utter want of employment would be both disagreable and hurtful.
Fortunately he had taken notes of his military travels and adventures, specially when on particular service in Persia ; and he now began to find employment and pleasure in arranging these notes into the form of a narrative. It was while thus engaged, that the idea first suggested itself of laying his labours before the public. The few suggestions which are appended to the Narra- PEEFACE. VII tive, on the subject of recruiting and improving the army, may likewise be found worthy of consideration. The writer has only further to say, that as already stated, the substance of the work was compiled at the time, or shortly after his discharge from the army. This will explain allusions which might otherwise seem out of date. Perth, January 1859. CONTENTS.
Chapter I
Ancestry and Family Connexion — Place and Date of Birth — First Occupation — Early Aspirations — Juvenile attempt to Enlist — Failure and Disappointment — Change of Service — Reflections — Embarks for tlie East — St Helena — Napoleon's Tomb — Penang — Sails for China — Adventures there — Returns Home — Cast Adrift, ..... Pp. 1-8
Chapter II
London — Night Scene — Astrology — Determination to Enter the Army — Enlists into the Rifle Brigade — Route to Dover — Major Hope — Captain H. Stewart — Visited by his Youngest Brother — Treatment of Recruits — Advice to Young Soldiers — Made Lance- Corporal — Election at Dover — Gipsies' Encampment — Opportune Deliverance — Route to Hastings, . . Pp. 9-22
Chapter III
Arrival at Hastings — Smugglers — Returns to Dover — The Fair at Canterbury — Recruiting — Goes to Masquerade — Ludicrous Incident — Left in the Lurch— Dover to Chatham— Made Corporal X CONTENTS. —Character and Influence of Sergeants in the Army— Goes to Croydon on the Recruiting Service — Accompanies a Friend to Consult a Fortune-teUer — Unhappy Result — Route to Jersey — Made Sergeant, ..... Pp- 23-38
Chapter IV
Is Appointed along with his Brother to Particular Service in Persia — An Old Enemy is Thwarted — Commences to keep a Diary — Leaves Jersey for Weymouth — Captain WUbraham— SaUs from Falmouth — " FareweU to Britain " — Arrival at Gibraltar — Story of the Gunner WiUiamson — The Blue and Green Jackets hold a Symposium, . . . Pp. 39-51
Chapter V
The Mediterranean— A Typhoon — Algiers — Arrival at Malta — Zante" — Adventures there — Description of a Greek Fair, Pp. 52-61
Chapter VI
Reflections on Greece — Reach Matapan — Scio — Arrive at Smyrna — Its Ancient Church — DardaneUes — Plain of Troy — The Hellespont — Slaves as FeUow-passengers — Reflections on Slavery —The Bosphorus, . . . .Pp. 62-68
Chapter VII
Arrive at Constantinople — Description of the City — Mosques — Streets — Dog-Scavengers — Observations on the Turks — Their Dress — Smoking — Private Dwellings — Turkish Females — Jannat-al-Eden — Turkish Government — Sultan Mahmoud— Account of the Destruction of the Janissaries — Visit to Therapia — Excursions — Uncomfortable Quarters on Board the Volage— Sir Henry Bethune — Flogging, &c, . . Pp. 69-83 CONTENTS. XI
Chapter VIII
Arrive at Trebizond— The Author unable to Proceed— Parting with bis Comrades — His Forlorn Condition — Description of a Turkish Bath — Description of Trebizond — Solemnity of the Muezzins — Devout Character of the Mussulmans— Author Recovers, and Arranges to Resume the Journey, Pp. 84-91
Chapter IX
Proceeds on his Journey with Mr Lewis — Dangerous Bridges — Picturesque Scenery — Lack of Travelling Accommodation — Unexpected Meeting — Mount Taurus — Xenophon — Majestic Mountain Scenery — Overtake the Caravan — Miserable VUlages — Want of Regular Roads — Lose themselves — Plain of Erzeroum — Reflections — Arrive at Erzeroum, . Pp. 92-103
Chapter X
City of Erzeroum — PashaUc Misrule — Remarks on Turkish Soldiers — Turkish and Armenian PrivUeges — Difference between Turkish and Persian Religious Sects — Deadly Feuds arising therefrom — Witnesses One — Its Fatal Consequences — Persian PUgrims — Arrival of Mr M'NeiU, . . Pp. 104-111
Chapter XI
Mr M'NeiU, British Ambassador at Teheran — Departure from Erzeroum — The Kurd Robbers — Fortified ViUage — The River Arras — Description of Harvest Operations — Account of Shepherds, their Sheep, and Doge — Novel Method of Soliciting Charity — Kurdish Bands — Seizure and Narrow Escape — Dangerous Situation of our Cook — Armenian Convent — Mount Ararat — Ararat and Poetical Inspiration — Bayazid — Meet with the Returning Ambassador, ..... Pp. 112-121 CONTENTS.
Chapter XII
Continuation of Journey — Arrive in Persia — The Persians — Description of their VUlages — Present Desolation and Degeneracy contrasted with the Past Greatness of Persia — Town of Khay — Its Delicious Fruit — Met by the Governor and Escort — Entertained by Him — His Mansion — Manners and Customs — The Governor's Garden — Great Salt Lake — Urumiah — Caravans — Arrival at Tabriz, . . . .Pp. 122-131
Chapter XIII
Account of Tabriz — The Ambassador and Train depart for Teheran — Customary Attentions of the Government — Ujoon — A Buffalo Fight — Mineral Wells — Meana — Zanjoon and its Horsemen — Camels in Distress, and its Consequences — Sultanieh — Casbin, with its Amusements — Mussulmans get Intoxicated at a Feast — Meeting with Sir Henry Bethune — Salamonia, and its Historical Recollections — Arrival at Teheran, Pp. 132-142
Chapter XIV
The Author's Happy Meeting with his Brother — Supper in Honour of his Arrival — Ludicrous Incident thereat — Anglo-Indian Sergeants — Powerful Influence and Intrigues of Russia — Perfidy of the Shah — Sir Henry Bethune — His Great Services to the Shah — The Shah's Ingratitude — Inefficiency of Persian Soldiers — Difficulties in Drilling them — Want of Rifle Arms, Pp. 143-154
Chapter XV
DeeUne of the Military Spirit of Persia — Composition of the Army — The Artillery — European Discipline Introduced — Rifle Practice — Demoralisation — Triumphant Entry of the Shah into CONTENTS. XIII Teheran— His Courtesy to the British Ambassador— Specimen of the Persians' Attention to Astrology — The Ramazan Per sian Fanatics— The Shah's Inspection of a Regiment — Droll Punishment of one of the Companies, . Pp. 155-168
Chapter XVI
Amusements during the Winter — Hunting— Learning the Persian Language— Making Whisky— A Night at the Malt-kiln— Sketch of the Country— The Towns— Teheran— The Ruins of Rhe, Pp. 169-179
Chapter XVII
Character of the Persians — The Females — Wedding Ceremonies and Usages — Tastes, Amusements, and Sports — The Wandering Pastoral Population — The Religion and General Knowledge, Pp. 180-191
Chapter XVIII
Provisions in Persia — Pigs, Dogs, and other Unclean Animals — Drill Operations Recommenced — The Carra Gouzas Re-embodied and Drilled — Rifle Arms Arrive from England — Diplomatic Relations — The Shah's Inspection of the New-DriUed Riflemen — His Compliments — Visitation of a Simoom — Expedition of the Shah against Herat, . . . .Pp. 192-202
Chapter XIX
Influence of Russia and Disingenuous Conduct of the Shah — Importance to Britain of the Independence of Herat — View of the Nature of the Influence of Russia in Persian Affairs — Commissioned Officers promoted by the Home Government — Services of Sergeants, and the General Neglect with which they CONTENTS. XIV are Treated— Drilling Recommences— Punishment of Deserters among the Persians— Nature of Criminal Trials and Executions —Christmas Festivities — Dangerous Nocturnal Encounter of the Sergeants with the Persians— ReUgious Affray among the Populace of Teheran — Ambassador leaves for Herat, and the Author joins a Party on a Tour to the, Caspian, Pp. 203-217
Chapter XX
Colonel WUbraham's Party take their Tour to the North-east, and Arrive at Astilack — Reach Demavend — Lose their Way, and Experience a Curious Reception at the Village of Konaheek — Reach the ViUage of Ferazkee: — Enter the Province of Mazanderan at a Snowy Elevation of the Elbruz Mountains — Descent of the Mountains to the North among Rich Sylvan Scenery — Sketch of the LUe of Roostum — Pheasant-Shooting, Pp. 218-231
Chapter XXI
The Tourist Party makes its Way through the Hyrcanian Forest by the Causeway of Shah Abbas — Cross the River Talar, and Arrive in the Plain on the South of the Caspian — Reach the Village of AUabad, and are Serenaded by a Band of Jackals — Reach Saree, the Capital of Mazanderan (Modern. Hyrcania) — Boar-hunting — Sight of the Sea — Reach.the Town of Ashruf, Pp. 232-243
Chapter XXII
The Tourists reach the Caspian, turn Westward and Arrive at the ViUage of Farackabad — The Fisheries and Shipping — Freshness of the Sea Water here — Fine Shooting and Hunting — Turn to the South and East, and Reach Balfroosh — The Town of Amol S CONTENTS. XV — Ascend again the Mountains of Mazanderan — Travelling over Precipitous Heights and Lodging in Caves — Difficulty of getting through a Precipitous Pass — Ascent to the top of Demavend by Mr Thompson — They again Cross the Range of the Elbruz Mountains, and Arrive at Teheran, . . Pp. 244-257
Chapter XXIII
News from the British Ambassador at the Seat of War—One of the British Couriers Robbed of his. Despatches — Comments on the Influence of Russia in Central Asia — Diplomatic- Relations with Persia broken off— Arrival of the Ambassador at Teheran — Nature of his Diplomatic Undertakings, and Faithful Discharge of his Duties — Defeat of the Persian Army at Herat — Character of General Borowskie — Departure of the British from Teheran — One of the Sergeants becomes Insane, and Effects bis Escape after a Hot Chase, but is Brought Back by the Natives, Pp. 258-274
Chapter XXIV
At Turcoman Chai, the Ambassador and His Company Met by Mr Bonhajn and Dr Riach — Their Reception at Tabriz— The Home Sergeants of the Party Bid Adieu to the Anglo-Indians, who Return to our Eastern Empire — The Author Loses his Way, and also his Horse aod Arms — Returns to the Ambassador's Camp at Tabriz, and again Joins his Companions on their Homeward Journey, . . . .Pp. 275-283
Chapter XXV
The Home Sergeants Arrive at Woolwich, and are cordiaUy Received by the Non-commissioned Officers of their 2d Battalion — Their Cold Reception at Windsor by those of their own Bat- CONTENTS. talion — Chartist Riots in the BuU-ring at Birmingham, and Loss of Life— The Author Tried and Acquitted— Purchases his Dis charge — Marries — Commences Business — Is Unfortunate — and latterly Ruined— His Adversity— A True Friend — Conclusion, Pp. 284-293 A Few Suggestions on the Subject of Recruiting and Improving the Armt, ..... Pp. 295-303 PERSONAL NARRATIVE OP MILITARY TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.
Chapter I
Ancestry and Family Connexion — Place and Date of Birth — First Occupation — Early Aspirations — Juvenile attempt to Enlist — Failure and Disappointment — Change of Service — Reflections — Embarks for the East — St Helena — Napoleon's Tomb — Penang — Sails for China — Adventures there — Returns Home — Cast Adrift. I will pass over a few years of my early life as briefly as possible. Although born of humble parentage, I am lineally descended from the chiefs of the Highland clan of Macdonald, a tribe whose mournful fate in the valley of Glencoe contributes so dark a page to the annals of British history. My parents, though poor, were honest and industrious. My mother, particularly, was a useful and strong-minded woman, and was much esteemed by all who knew her — rich and poor alike respected her.
A PEESONAL NARRATIVE OF I was born in the year 1804, at Bonnie-view, on the Braes of Gask, close to the banks of the river Earn, in Perthshire. In my boyish days I exhibited a reserved and retiring disposition, associating little with boys of my own age, and having my mind occupied and absorbed with an old ballad or the warlike records of the worthies of my country. The desire to be a hero was my daily aspiration, and the love of martial glory kindled a glow ing sensation in my soul. Tending cattle on the hill of Kinnoul, in the vicinity of Perth, I had frecpient opportunities of seeing the military pomp of those days, and the blast of war was often blowing in my ears. The French war was still going on, and Perth formed a great recruiting station. The war-inspiring strains of the military bands fired my youthful imagination, and the noble, the dashing appearance of the ranks in their attractive uniforms, put me in raptures with a military life.
An incident of my early life, when I was only some ten years of age, will shew the tone of my mind on this subject. Having formed a resolution to enlist in the army, I sought an opportunity of putting my design into execution. Accordingly, one morning, when I had occasion to carry milk to a female customer at Bridge end, and having got my milk delivered, I proceeded to the High Street, where I found a military party marching up the street to the music of the drum and the fife, beating up for recruits. Having halted at the head of the street, a sergeant addressed the large crowd assembled, and spoke much of military glory, and the noble achievements of the heroes who then, in the south of France, were fighting the battles of their country. When he had concluded his harangue, and nobody seemed to respond to it, I boldly stepped up to him, and told him that I wanted to be a soldier.
The sergeant looked a little puzzled ; but as soon as the crowd became aware of my purpose, they gave such a cheer as echoed from the houses on either side. The sergeant clapped me on the shoulder, and said I was a brave little fellow, but was sorry that I was too young to be a soldier. Not anticipating such a refusal, I pro ceeded to argue with the sergeant on the subject of my fitness, and was in the act of pointing out a little lifer boy in the baud as no older than myself, when whom should I see but the woman for whom I had carried the milk, and who had got uneasy at the length of my stay in town, coming towards me, rushing through the crowd with all the fury of a tigress. She gave me one or two thundering boxes on the ears, collared me, and led me off like a pickpocket. My military enthusiasm received an effectual cooling on this occasion, so that it was several years before it recovered anything of its original ardour.
After outgrowing the boyish occupation of those early days, I entered the service of the family of a gentleman in the neighbourhood, Mr Grant of Kilgraston, and took a pleasure and experienced an enjoyment in the humble sphere in which I moved that I have often reflected on in maturer life. In the same capacity my lot was afterwards cast in the family of Mrs Oliphant of Gask, where I served for a length of time. In these situations, with some other engage ments, I remained till I was upwards of twenty years of age ; and the early associations connected with my service in these families endear them to my memory, and the happiness of those days is looked upon as an oasis in the desert of my life. At length I aspired to better my social position, and endeavoured to obtain an appointment to the Excise.
Some influential friends promised their helping hand, and used their interest in my behalf ; but as fate would have it, things took another turn. Unfortunately, I was of a sanguine temperament, and to make matters worse, was of a very roving disposition ; so that, finding my appointment to the Excise was not coming at the time I expected it, I had not the patience to brook the delay, and relinquished the hope of receiving it, em bracing an opportunity which came in my way at this time of going out to the East. I immediately took leave of Strathearn and the banks of the Tay, and did so, I confess, without intimating the matter to the friends that were interesting themselves in my behalf, a step which I afterwards deeply regretted ; for it was an act of ingratitude on my part — an offence which, on reflection, I considered, and still consider, both dastardly and provoking.
Soon after the beginning of the year 1829, I set sail for China in one of the Company's ships ; and had scarcely been three months away, before my commission to the Excise was procured. In sailing through the Bay of Biscay, we experienced one of those tre mendous gales for which the bay is remarkable. Our noble vessel weathered the tempest ; but it was some weeks before her damages were fully repaired. As we passed into the wide ocean we had favourable weather, and nothing of importance occurred to us till our arrival at St Helena. We lay at this romantic island some three weeks, and I often went on shore and saw its famous sights ; visiting Longwood especially, the residence of the Emperor Napoleon; and surveying his tomb, I mused and moralised over the career and des tiny of that wonderful man.
After touching at the Cape of Good Hope, we steered direct for the Straits of Malacca, and remained a few weeks at Penang. Our business being accomplished there, we sailed for China. On our arrival at Hong Kong, we found that trade with the Celestial Empire was entirely suspended, in consequence of some disputes between the British and Chinese authorities. On account of this state of things, our stay here was protracted upwards of a year ; during which time I shared in some rather dangerous adventures with the Chinese. As an instance of these, I may re late how a party of four of us served out a small gang of Celestial navvies one day. In taking an excursion into the country, we were passing the small village of Ho, where half a dozen labourers were making mortar for a house that was building hard by.
When we came within hail of the rascals, they beckoned to us to ap proach, wdiich we no sooner did than they began to bespatter us with the mortar, thinking, no doubt, that the Barbarians might be treated with a little hard usage without any great harm ; but the scene which ensued was droll in the extreme. Each of us, with the rapidity of a conjuror, took a Chinaman by his head tail of hair, laid him softly alongside the ammunition they had been playing off upon us, drew him forwards and backwards, backwards and forwards, till he was released from the operation not unlike a coarse plaster statue. The said little piece of business was so sud denly and satisfactorily completed, that before the village had time to rise against us, we were out of sight among the woods, making the best possible speed to wards our ship.
When the trade was again opened, we left Hong- Kong and crossed over to the continent. The ship went up to Whampoa, and the captain and his staff, of whom I formed one, went up to Canton. While lying here, one of the attendants at the British factory and myself resolved one day to enjoy an aquatic excursion on the river. We hired a boat of a Chinese Tartar, and went sailing up and down to view the sights on the capacious stream, which bore on its bosom thousands upon thou sands of junks, boats, and craft of all sizes and shapes. Matters moved on with us very agreeably, till our evil genius put it into our heads to board a vessel which had been consecrated to the exclusive use of the Celes tials. Our foolhardiness in getting on board this gay craft nearly cost us our lives ; in fact, had we not taken to the water, and made our escape by swimming, we would never have been heard of more.
The day for our setting sail for Europe at length arrived ; so we weighed anchor, unfurled the sails, and bade adieu to China. Whistling for a fair breeze, we spliced the mainbrace, and then in the highest of spirits sang, " Britannia rules the waves," and steered for the shores of Old England. After an absence of about two years, I returned to my native land, but whether a wiser or better man I will not undertake to say. The voyage, however, turned out a ruinous affair to me. My captain, through heavy losses in his private trade, became a bankrupt, and, without even giving in his books to the East India House, he abandoned the ship at Gravesend, and went off to France ; but what became of him afterwards I never knew, for I never saw or heard of him more. After losing my captain in this way, my career on the deep was at an end, and I was cast adrift without a pilot, upon the stormy ocean of the wide world, to shift for myself as I best could.
I knew it wTould be of no use to apply to my influential friends, after the ungrateful way I had used them, and consequently I was obliged to set my mind seriously to work upon the all-important question of what should be tried next as the means of gaining my daily bread. I could now plainly see that I had lost, this time, the flood of the tide which leads on to fortune.
Chapter II
London — Night Scene — Astrology — Determination to Enter the Army — Enlists into the Rifle Brigade — Route to Dover — Major Hope — Captain H. Stewart — Visited by his Youngest Brother — Treatment of Recruits — Advice to Young Soldiers — Made Lance- Corporal — Election at Dover — Gipsies' Encampment — Opportune Deliverance — Route to Hastings. What a dreary wilderness is that great modem Babylon (London), with all its stirring scenes of bustling excite ment, and the heaving tide of human beings that roll along the streets in perpetual commotion, to a poor, friendless, moneyless, and unemployed stranger like my self ! I felt as if I were in a desert alone as I walked along the crowded streets, cheerless and forlorn. The grandeur of the shops, the splendour of the equipages as they hurled along with their galaxies of rank and fashion, and the pompous magnificence of the monarch's court, were all as mockery to me in my sad and lorn condition.
I could hardly avoid the thought at this time, that I was one of those unfortunate beings who had been born under an unlucky planet ; and I do believe, had I known the residence of any of these impostors called astrologers, that I would have been foolish and credulous enough to go and consult one of them respecting my future life and destiny. Fortunately, however, I had no such knowledge, so I bethought myself of becoming my own astrologer, and consulted the stars for myself. The night was beautiful — I recollect it well. When I left my lodgings to wander forth, I used no pre meditation whatever in respect of the place to which I was going. The noisy, bustling tumult on the streets annoyed me greatly, for my mind at the time was in a melancholy and contemplative mood, which ren dered me very unfit for the bustle of a great city.
I walked on from street to street, without once giving a thought about where I was going, but it would appear that I must have steered my course, instinctively as it were, towards Hyde Park, for I hardly knew where I was until I found myself within the precincts of that aristocratic enclosure. Althotigh even here I was not altogether out of the din and bustle of the city, yet, as the park was now pretty clear of human beings, and completely divested of the equipages of rank and fashion which a few hours before were promenading here in all their pomp, I felt as if I were alone and my soul were free and unfettered. I have already mentioned that the night was beauti ful. There was no moonlight, it is true, but the stars appeared to me to shine in greater splendour than usual. What a soul-absorbing contemplation is that of astronomy !
How magnificent, in a clear and cloudless sky, to look upon those countless sparkling orbs revolving round the lofty dome of heaven ! Nothing that the eye of man ever beheld can surpass the subli mity and grandeur of such a scene. Planets shaping their endless course around their parent sun. Systems revolving round systems in the most perfect harmony. Omnipotent must be that Power who created these systems and their galaxies of shining orbs hi such glorious and magnificent array. While I walked along, brooding over my misfortunes, and thinking what course of life I should adopt and pursue, 1 began to repeat the names of the different planets. I am not credulous enough to believe that the stars have any rule over our destiny ; yet it was strange that, when I was calling over the roll of the planets, I stood as if I had been nailed to the ground when I came to Mars, and repeated over its name two or three times.
Mars, I inwardly said, is the god of war. No sooner had I said this, than I resolved to become one of his sons. This circumstance had the effect of fixing my resolution in the twinkling of an eye. All the enthusiasm of my youth instantly took possession of my soul. I was now determined to be come a soldier. With a lighter heart than I had for some time felt, I retraced my steps to my lodgings ; and as I walked along the streets, I could hardly refrain from whistling aloud the tune of the " Soldier's Joy." Of my resolve I said nothing to any one that night. In bed, however, I dreamed of battles and glory. Next morning I rose early, dressed myself in my best, and with as much care, too, as if I had been going to lead a bride to the hymeneal altar. I was still as warm a votary of Mars as I was the night .before.
I sallied out to put my resolve into execution. It was my intention to enter a cavalry regiment, but I met with a life-guardsman, whose advice caused me to change my mind in this respect. He told me that I would have a much better chance of promotion in the infantry than the cavalry. As I had a little ambition, I was induced by what he said to enlist into the infantry there and then. The Rifle Brigade had a recruiting party in London at this time. I liked the uniform of this brave and dashing corps, and so this regiment became the object of my choice at once. On the 28th April 1831, at the Recruiting Office, Duke Street, Westminster, London, I was legally en listed into the 1st Battalion Rifle Brigade, to serve His Majesty King William the Fourth, his heirs and suc cessors, until I was legally discharged.
On the 3d of May, along with eight more recruits, I was marched off to Dover, under the charge of a staff sergeant, to join the reserve companies of my battalion, whichwere lying there at this time. The service com panies were in America. On our route we marched through Chatham and Canterbury. Chatham, I thought, was one of the most immoral towns I had ever visited. At Canterbury I went to worship at the shrine of A'Becket ; not, however, for the sake of its sanctity, but on account of its historical associations. We arrived at Dover on the 8th, and proceeded at once to the barracks on the Heights, where our depot was lying. Dover is famed for its classic scenery and splendid views, but as these have been frequently de scribed by able writers already, I need not enter into any account of them here.
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