Irish Pictures drawn with pen and pencil, etc

Front matter

An Irish Interior, Showing a Hand Loom Weaver and a Spinner, {From a Sketch by Charles Whymfer.) w Irish Pictures Brawn witb pen anb pencil BY RICHARD LOVETTM.A. AUTHOR OF 'NORWEGIAN PICTURES' 'PICTURES FROM HOLLAND,' Etc. WITH A MAP AND ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY-THREE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES, Ardmore, County Waterford. the religious tract society 56 Paternoster Row and 164 Piccadilly LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. A CONNAUGHT CABIN. {From a Sketch by Charles Whymper.) CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS An Irish Interior, Showing a Hand-Loom Weaver and a Spinner . Frontispiece Ardmore, County Wateiford ........ Title-page A Connaught Cabin ......... page 5 Refractory ............ 8 The Giant's Causeway ......'.... 10

Introduction

11 Holy Cross Abbey, Tipperary ........ 11 Edmund Burke ........... 14 A List of the most important Works consulted in the preparation of this Book 15 An Ancient Circular Window in the Church at Rathain, near Tullamore 15 An Ancient Irish Bell .......... 16

Chapter I. Ireland's Eye

Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland, Dublin page 18 Howth Harbour and Ireland's Eye ... 19 The Custom House, Dublin .... 21 Trinity College Library, interior ... 23 Initial, the letter L, from the Book of Kells . page 24 Part of an Illuminated Monogram, from the Book of Kells 25 An Illuminated Pace from the Book of Durrow . CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

— continued. The Cumdach, or Case of St. Molaise's Gospels . page 39 Leather Outer Case of the Book of Armagh, showing the Early Irish Tracery Ornamentation . page 29 The Shrine of St. Patrick's Bell ... 4° The Ardagh Chalice 4' The Choir, St. Patrick's Cathedral ... 31 The Tara Brooch (Obverse) . . . . 42 Jonathan Swift ...... 32 ,, ,, (Reverse) .... 43 Interior of Christ Church as restored ... 35 The Cross of Cong 44

Chapter II. The Garden Of Ireland

The Esplanade and Bray Head ... 48 The Vale of Glendalough 49 Sugar-Loaf Mountain . . . . . 51 The Dargle 52 Powerscourt Waterfall . . . . 53 Powerscourt House ... -54 The Scalp 55 The Vale of Avoca 62

Chapter III. The Valley Of The Boyne

Drogheda from the Railway Bridge . . 65 The Cross of Muiredach, Monasterboice . . 72 The St Lawrence Gate, Drogheda ... 66 New Grange . . . ... . 75 The Bridge, Drogheda ..... 67 Standing Stones at New Grange 75 The Boyne Obelisk ...... 69 Entrance to New Grange .... 76 Ruins of the Baptistery, Mellifont . . . 71 Recess in the Sepulchral Chamber, New Grange . 77 Round Tower of Donaghmore ... 83

Chapter IV. From Dublin To Cork

St. Brigid's Church and the Round Tower, Kildare . 86 The Doorway in the Round Tower at Kildare . 87 Crosier found on opening a Tomb in Cormac's Chapel, Cashel ...... 93 St. Canice's Steps, Kilkenny .... 88 The Cross of Cashel ..... 94 The Rock of Cashel 89 General View of Cork . . . . -95 The Interior of Cormac's Chapel, Cashel . . 91 North Doorway, Cormac's Chapel, Cashel . 92 Sir Walter Raleigh's House at Youghal . . 98 Kilcolman Castle ...... 99 Blarney Castle 101

Chapter V. Glengariff, Killarney, And Valentia

The Upper Lake of Killarney .... 104 The Pike, Gap of Dunloe . . . . .112 Glengariff ....... 105 The Eagle's Nest, Killarney . . . . , j , T-L- AU -__7 •_ Tl 'J___ T7-.ii ** McGillicuddy Reeks ...... 108 The Old Weir Bridge, Killarney . . .114 Ross Castle, Killarney Innisfallen, Killarney no "5 CONTENTS. 7

CHAPTER V.

— continued. The Choir of Muckross Abbey . . . page 117 The Gannet. ..... page 126 A Kerry Cabin and its Inhabitants . . n8 The Great Skellig ...... 128 Tore Waterfall, Killarney . . . . .119 The Ancient Staircase on the Great Skellig . 131 Valentia, two views ..... 122 Plan of the Monastery on the Great Skellig . .133 Map, showing the Skelligs . . . .124 A Stone Oratory at Gallerus, County Kerry . 136

Chapter VI. The Shannon

At Castle Connel ...... 138 Doorway of the Larger Round Tower at Clonmacnois ....... 148 Athlone Castle ...... 139 The House in which Maria Edgeworth lived 140 The Library in which Maria Edgeworth wrote . 141 Oliver Goldsmith ...... 143 Crozier found at Clonmacnois . . . 149 Thomond Bridge, Limerick . . . .151 King John's Castle, Limerick ... 152 The Treaty Stone, Limerick .... 152 Doorway of Temple Conor Church, Clonmacnois 145 The large Round Tower and the Crosses at Clon- Kilkee from the Coastguard Station . . 156 Cliffs near Kilkee . . . . . 157 macnois ....... 146 Cliffs and Natural Arch near Ballybunnion . 158

Chapter VII. Connemara

Blessing the Claddagh Fleet at the Beginning of the Fishing Season . . . . .160 An Arran Islander . . . . .168 The Curragh . • • . 170 Cong Abbey . . . . . . . 171 Clew Bay ....... 161 A Galway Woman (Initial) . . . .161 The Outlet of Lough Mask .... 172 The Cliffs of Moher 162 Glendalough . . . . ■ 173 Peat Cutting ....... 163 The Pins of Bunnabeola . . . . 174 Queen's College, Galway .... 165 Kylemore . . . . . . 175 Salmon Poaching on the Corrib .... 166 Catching Salmon with a Seine . . . 177 Hook for Poaching Salmon . . . ' . 167 Killala ........ 178 Going to Market 179

Chapter VIII. The Donegal Highlands

Donegal Castle ...... iSo Carrigan Head, Donegal .... 181 The East Window, Sligo Abbey . . . 183 The Cloisters, Sligo Abbey • . . . . 183 Donegal 187 Donegal Peasants . . . . '. 191 Mount Errigal ....... 193 The Natural Arch, Horn Head . . . 196 The Seven Arches, Lough Swilly . . .201 CONTENTS.

Chapter IX. Belfast, Armagh, And Londonderry

Queen's College, Belfast .... page 202 Londonderry page 209 Castle Place, Belfast ..... 203 The Bishop's Gate, Londonderry . . .211 The Albert Memorial ..... 204 Bombshell and Tablet in the Porch of Londonderry Cathedral 211 The Linen Hall, Belfast .... 206 A Group of Belfast Operatives .... 20S Roaring Meg, and Walker's Monument, Londonderry . . . . . . . .212 Antrim Castle ...... 208

Chapter X. The Giant's Causeway, And The Mourne Mountains

Carrick a Rede ...... 214 The Chimney Tops, Giant's Causeway . . 215 The Ladies' Chair, Giant's Causeway . . 219 ' Farewell, yer Honour ! ' . The Horizontal Formation, Giant's Causeway . 219 Pleaskin Head, Giant's Causeway . . . 220 Grey Man's Path . . . . . . 221 . 223 220 ocsa The Giant's Causeway. Holy Cross Abbey, Tipperary.

INTRODUCTION.

. FOR some years past many of those acquainted with the ' Pen and Pencil Series ' have expressed the wish that Ireland could be added to the list. English Pictures has long been a favourite ; the more recent Scottish Pictures received a warm welcome ; it seems hardly fair that the Emerald Isle should any longer be omitted. It would be idle to deny that Ireland, even from this point of view, presents difficulties not experienced in the case of the sister kingdoms. Readers may naturally expect to find in any elaborate book upon Ireland issued at the present moment, some reference to the burning questions of

INTRODUCTION.

. the hour ; such, for example, as the relation of tenant to landlord, or the expediency of Home Rule. Absorbing and important as these questions are, the author trusts that it will not detract from either the interest or the value of this work when the reader discovers they have been rigidly excluded. It has not come within the author's province to discuss them. His object is wider, and, it may be hoped, no less useful. He seeks to give pen and pencil pictures of all parts of Ireland ; to produce upon the mind of the reader, so far as it is possible with the means at his command, the impressions that a journey through the country would make upon an observant and unprejudiced mind. This need not and does not indicate indifference to political issues. Far from it. But evidence is not lacking to show that the inhabitants of England, Scotland, and Wales do not know as much as they might and ought about their Irish brethren, and the land in which they dwell.

The glorious scenery of Donegal and Kerry, the picturesque ruins of Cashel and the Lower Shannon, the industries of Belfast and Limerick, the splendid past of Ireland — her early Church-life, her missionary enthusiasm, her literature, architecture, and art — present many subjects for consideration and study that ought to command the attention alike of ardent Nationalists, staunch Conservatives, and those who may be unable to sympathise heartily with either section. The United Kingdom possesses no fairer regions than Killarney and Connemara ; no wilder coast scenes than the lofty cliffs and bold headlands that bear, at Valentia, Moher, Achill Island and Slieve League, the whole unbroken force of the mighty Atlantic, and dash into driving foam its wildest waves. There are no more interesting people among the rural populations of Europe than such peasantry as the traveller meets in the Golden Vale of Tipperary, along the mountain routes of Kerry, and amid the lovely scenery of Galway, Donegal, Antrim, and Wexford.

Sad and troubled as much of the past of Ireland has been, she has no reason to fear comparison in regard to the men she has produced. No section of Great Britain can show abler men in their respective spheres of life than Patrick1 and Columba, Brian Boru and Shane O'Neill, James Ussher and Bishop Berkeley, the Duke of Wellington and Lord Gough, Oliver Goldsmith and Edmund Burke, Henry Grattan and Daniel O'Connell. There is so much information, both interesting and also not generally known, connected with the early Irish Church, with various periods of Irish history, and with the art and architecture of Ireland, that the author had 1 The Scotch claim Patrick as being born on their soil. This, though probable, is not certain : yet his influence and work were certainly Irish.

INTRODUCTION.

. 13 contemplated giving separate chapters to each of these subjects. But limitations of space, and the fact that these ' Pen and Pencil ' volumes are intended for popular reading, have compelled him in this respect to depart from his original plan. But he has not felt it right to omit these important subjects altogether, and hence they have been briefly treated as each seems to arise naturally in the progress of the work. For example, the description of the Royal Irish Academy Museum in Dublin has been made somewhat full, in order that the chief peculiarities of Irish art, as illustrated by its most brilliant achievements, may be indicated. The MSS. of Trinity College Library have been referred to at length, to enable the reader to appreciate the marvellous ability of the ancient scribes who wrote and illuminated them.

The personal history of St. Patrick naturally accompanies a description of Slane and of Tara Hill, as some reference to that of St. Columba naturally fits in with a description of Donegal. The origin and uses of the Round Towers — that vexed question — cannot be passed over, and it is dealt with in the description of Clonmacnois, where, within a few yards of each other, two very fine examples have stood for centuries. In this less formal way he has sought — he trusts not less satisfactorily — to deal with all these subjects. The author has had to treat the religious difficulties of Ireland in much the same way as the political. The tangled and tragic story of the past is one that neither Protestant nor Roman Catholic can find any pleasure in recalling. The conflicting currents and forces that influence the religious life of Ireland to-day have been briefly indicated in the chapter on Belfast.

Notwithstanding the experience of the past, and the evidence of so much that is conflicting in the present, the author ventures to hope that better times are in store for the sister kingdom. The writer has sought to give brief, pointed, and accurate descriptions of all that is most distinctive in Irish scenery ; to present a varied and thoroughly representative series of engravings ; to glance at some of the most noteworthy men and deeds of the past ; and to catch and depict, so far as his pen can, the most typical aspects of the Ireland of to-day. How far he has been successful must be decided by those who have already given a kindly welcome to Norwegian Pictures, and Pictures from Holland. He can only hope that the Irish readers into whose hands the book may fall will accept his appreciation of, and admiration for, the land they love so well as some atonement for the failings they may observe in his work. As for other readers, he will feel amply rewarded for the time and labour expended upon frisk Pictures if the book enlarges their know-

INTRODUCTION.

. M ledge of the land known more than fourteen centuries ago as ' the Sacred Isle,' and helps to promote brotherly sympathy towards a people whose history has for some centuries in varied phases been so closely interwoven with that of the English, Welsh, and Scottish races. The author would gratefully acknowledge the help so courteously given to him by the large number of those whom he met during his various journeys through Ireland, or to whom he applied for special information. He had many opportunities of testing the courtesy and hospitality of the Irish people, and, like others who have borne similar testimony, never found these fail. Edmund Burke. An Ancient Circular Window in the Church at Rathain, near Tullamore. A List of some of the most important Works consulted in the preparation of this Book.

The books included in this list are all important in their respective departments, and they are printed here as a convenient reference list for any who may wish to study somewhat more fully the various subjects of interest connected with Ireland and the Irish people. The list makes no pretension to completeness. It only seeks to indicate a selection of the most important and most easily accessible works. Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland. — By Four Masters. Translated by John O'Donovan. 4 vols. quarto. 185 1. Ulster Journal of Archæology, 1853-1861. — 9 vols. small quarto. The Journals of the Royal Historical and Archæological Association of Ireland. Descriptive Catalogue of the Royal Irish Academy. — By Sir W. Wilde. History of Ireland.— By Keating. Irish Names of Places. — By P. W. Joyce, LL.D. 2 vols. crown 8vo.

LIST OF WORKS CONSULTED. 16 National MSS. of Ireland. — By John T. Gilbert. Adamnan's Life of St. Columba.— Edited by Dr. Reeves, i vol. quarto, 1857. St. Patrick, Apostle of Ireland. — By Dr. Todd. 1 vol. octavo, 1864. The Tripartite Life of St. Patrick.— Edited for the Rolls Series by Dr. Whitley Stokes. 2 vols. octavo, 1887. The Writings of St. Patrick.— Revised translation by G. T. Stokes, D.D., and C. H. H Wright, D.D. 1 vol. octavo, paper cover, 1888. Ireland and the Celtic Church. — By G. T. Stokes. 1 vol. crown 8vo. The Round Towers and Ancient Christian Architecture of Ireland.— By Dr. Petne. 1 vol. quarto, 1845. Notes on Irish Architecture.— By the late Earl of Dunraven. Edited by Miss Stokes. 2 vols. folio, 1875-1877. Early Christian Architecture in Ireland. — By Miss Stokes. Early Christian Art in Ireland. — By Miss Stokes.

Ecclesiastical History of Ireland. — By Dr. Killeii. 2 vols. octavo. The Dublin Penny Journal, 1832-1836. — 4 vols. royal octavo. The Irish Penny Journal, 1841. — 1 vol. royal octavo. The Boyne and the Blackwater. — By Sir William Wilde. 2nd edition, 1850 Lough Corrib. — By Sir William Wilde. The Donegal Highlands. Traits and Stories of the Irish Peasantry. — By William Carleton. 2 vols. 8vo. 1867. Tales and Stories of the Irish Peasantry. — By William Carleton. 1 vol. 8vo. 1846. Fairy Legends and Traditions. — By T. C. Croker. The Ballads of Ireland. — Edited by E. Hayes. 2 vols. crown octavo. Boston, 1856. Derry and Enniskillen. — By Professor Witherow, D.D. The Boyne and Aghrim. — By Professor Witherow, D.D. Ireland : Its Scenery, Character, etc.— By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall. 3 vols. octavo.

Sketches of Irish Life. — By Mrs. S. C. Hall. 1 vol. octavo. Memories of a Month Among the ' Mere Irish.' — By W. H. Floredice. 1 vol. crown 8vo. The Religious History of Ireland. — By James Godkin. 1 vol. 8vo. 1873 An Ancient Irish Bell. I.. .ii. I. .m K.Iw.mvI Stanford, M Charms Orou. Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland, Dublin, Howth Harbour and Ireland's Eye.

Chapter I

Ireland's Eye. IRELAND'S EYE is the name of a rocky islet standing over against Howth Harbour, for many years the port of Dublin and the chief approach by sea to that capital. Kingstown and North Wall have superseded Howth Harbour ; the rocky islet is now seen to advantage only by those who explore Howth itself; nevertheless the island's name is no bad description of Dublin. The great city is in more senses than one Ireland's Eye. Through it the Emerald Isle receives many of her impressions of the outer world, and no fairer feature in her wealth of natural beauty does she possess than the noble bay of Dublin, with the great city nestling beneath the bold headlands of Killiney and the Hill of Howth. The first impression made upon the mind of the observer by Dublin is one of disappointment. The city hardly seems to live up to its environment.

The scenery of the bay is very lovely, whether seen in the early morning or the late evening of a summer's day ; the view up the Liffey as the c steamer approaches the North Wall, embracing the river, the crowded masts and boats, the fine dome of the Custom House in the near foreground, and the multitudinous roofs and spires of the city in the distance, is enticing, and whets the appetite and expectations of the explorer. But here as elsewhere the close inspection does not, at any rate at first, realize the distant promise. It is not easy to define exactly the effect produced as one makes the acquaintance of the quays, Sackville Street, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Merrion Square, and College Green. There are handsome buildings, wide streets, spacious squares, many evidences of life, prosperity and abundance, and yet something seems lacking.

Dublin is not like London, New York, Paris, or Amsterdam. In these great cities, differing widely as they do in manifold respects from each other, the evidences of prosperity predominate ; in Dublin, although she shares many of the best qualities of her larger sisters, the stranger, although he may have a firm conviction that better times are coming, hesitates to assert that she is manifestly prospering. While this impression is strong, the visitor can readily imagine that many take an early and sometimes incurable dislike to Dublin. The signs of apparent poverty are plentiful ; the streets and buildings that really please the eye are few, the number of ragged children seems abnormal ; and if the visitor to St. Patrick's or Christ Church devotes any attention to the neighbourhoods of these noted buildings, he meets many interesting but not altogether pleasing pictures of human life.

Yet the writer gladly admits that Dublin's power to impress him favourably increased with each successive visit. As he came to know her better, he grew to like her more, and to appreciate more fully the beauty of her surroundings, and the special objects for which she claims recognition. And it is now time to turn to some of these. Dublin is in the first place a considerable port. The Liffey, the quays, the docks and the canals are among the most prominent features of the metropolis. It is from the river, indeed, that she gets her name as well as a large portion of her wealth. The ancient high road from Tara to Wicklow crossed the river at this point in very early days by means of a rough wicker or hurdle bridge. Naturally a city grew up around the bridge or ford, and the name for Dublin in the Irish Annals is Ath-Cliath (pronounced Ah-clee), ' the ford of the hurdles.' Duibh-linn, ' the black pool ' or ' river,' the ancient name of this part of the Liffey, gradually banished the older, and has long been the only name by which the city is known.

The ancient ford is now represented by splendid bridges, the cluster of huts has expanded into square miles of brick and mortar, and the water which ages since floated the coracles of the Irish or the warships of the Northmen is now ploughed by the bulky steel ships of modern commerce. All else has changed marvel lously, but in the very name of Ireland's capital there survives the sure evidence of her former humility. Many facilities both natural and artificial exist for giving those wishful to get them good representative views of Dublin. A favourite point of view is the top of the Nelson Monument, which towers aloft in the centre of Sackville Street. Seen thence the whole city lies spread out at the observer's feet, and from that elevation, as from no other, he can also observe the beauty of the surrounding country.

Some very fine distant views are obtained at different parts of the Phœnix Park. But the true citizen of Dublin maintains that the view obtained from the O'Connell Bridge is not only the best that the city can show, but is also equal to the best that any rival capital possesses. On the left bank of the Liffey, a short distance below the great bridge, stands one of the most prominent buildings in the city, viz. the Custom House. The Custom House, Dublin. Dublin is not only the eye but the heart of Ireland. Hence on every side are traces of the many-sided life of the nation. Her antiquity is evident in many of her names. Her former national life is recalled by the building that is now the Bank of Ireland. It was here in former days the Irish Parliament met, and here many of Curran's and Grattan's famous speeches were delivered.

Her relation to England is kept prominently in view by the towers and courtyard of Dublin Castle. Her educational and literary life of the last three centuries has largely centred in Trinity College, which fronts boldly and closely upon an open space in the very heart of the city, the famous College Green. To her great religious hero is dedicated one of her two ancient cathedrals, and though the statement that St. Patrick founded it is mere fancy, it is fitting that he should for centuries have been thus associated with the metropolitan life. In the centre of College Green, and facing the fine facade of Trinity College, stands the statue of Grattan, while before the gateway of the great university, fronting the effigy of Ireland's renowned orator, are placed statues of Edmund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith.

Brilliant political oratory, fervid patriotism, noble eloquence, far-seeing statesmanship, and undying literary fame are here concentred and kept continually before the eyes and the minds of the multitudes who daily throng Grafton Street and College Green. And indeed here is the true heart of Dublin. Much of the business of the city is carried on in this district ; much of her intellectual activity here finds its home and field of work ; the financial heart of the country throbs here, and here blend the associations of the present and the memories of the past in stronger and more vigorous union than elsewhere. The foundation of Trinity College dates from 1592, and the institution began the work of teaching in 1593 as 'the College of the Holy and Indivi sible Trinity near Dublin,' in the buildings of the Augustinian monastery of All Hallows.

During the reigns of James I. and Charles I. it was richly endowed with confiscated lands. Many private benefactors enriched it. James I. conferred also the privilege it still enjoys of sending two members to Parliament. It was not until 1792 that a Roman Catholic could there take a degree, and not until 1873 could any member of that communion enjoy any part of the rich endowments possessed by the College. The facade facing College Green is somewhat heavy and sombre. It is very massive, and is principally built of Portland stone ; but it at once arrests the attention of the passer-by, and the effect is by no means unpleasing. Passing between the statues of Burke and Goldsmith which flank the entrance, the visitor is admitted into a spacious quadrangle, in the centre of which stands a tall, handsome bell-tower, built of granite.

On his right hand stands the Examination Hall or Theatre, and on the left the Chapel, with the Dining Hall as its next neighbour. Both Halls are enriched with portraits of famous students and graduates. But it is to the right of the bell tower that most visitors make their first pilgrimage, for there stands the handsome range of buildings containing the Library. It is included among the five great libraries of the kingdom entitled to a copy of every book published in Great Britain and Ireland. The structure, from an architectural point of view, is plain and unpretending, and yet, withal, possesses a dignity of its own, and a certain fitness as the home of a great literary collection. The ground floor consists chiefly of an arcade, and the library building occupies the rest of the structure.

The main apartment is the splendid gallery containing the bulk of the books. This is 210 feet long, 41 feet wide, and 40 feet high. The wood is dark old oak, and along each side are recesses placed at right angles to the main axis of the room, filled with shelves, and arranged so as to combine very happily architectural effect with economy of space. A gallery, placed about twenty feet above the level of the floor, runs round the room, and the best view of this magnificent chamber can be obtained from the end of this gallery immediately over the entrance. The visitor, if at all literary in his sympathies, cannot fail to be charmed as his eye travels down the Trinity College Library, Interior. whole length of the room. The long vista, the lights streaming across from the windows at the end of each recess, the lofty arched roof, the apparently numberless bookshelves and books, the comfortable tables below with their busy readers, the cases full of priceless MSS., the long rows of gleaming marble busts of distinguished literary men of all ages and lands, the timeworn volumes and the richly carved and deep-toned wood, both alike eloquent of age — all these combine not only to delight the eye, but also at once to stimulate and to satisfy one's sense of literary fitness.

A feeling of content that such a splendid library should be so superbly housed steals over the observer. There are many matters in Ireland wherein ordinary courses of pro cedure seem to be reversed. The origin of Trinity College Library is an illustration in point. In various countries and in all ages scholars and lovers of literature have had to bewail the ravages in the way of MS. and book destruction caused by war. Yet it is out of warfare that this great library appears to have sprung. In 1603 the Spaniards were defeated at the battle of Kinsale by the English and Irish. The victors in their enthusiasm resolved to erect some per manent monument of their success ; they collected among themselves the sum of and — would that their example had found many imitators ! — decided to expend the money in the purchase of books, and present them as the nucleus of a library to the College at Dublin, then completing its first decade.

Archbishop Usher was appointed to expend the money, and few of the many tasks he performed during his life can have been so congenial. Since his day the collection has grown and grown until now it ranks as one of the largest in Europe. It can claim the Bodleian as a twin brother, for while Usher was spending his soldiers' money in London, he met there Sir T. Bodley, who was purchasing books for his Oxford collection. Initial, the Letter L, from the Book of Kells. Usher's own library, one which embraced manifold treasures in its 10,000 volumes, found here a permanent home. At the eastern end of the library is a handsome room, 52 feet long, 26 wide, and 22 high, containing what is known as the Fagel Library, once the property of a gentleman named Fagel, Pensionary of Holland, comprising 17,000 volumes, and purchased for The library is very rich in specimens of early Irish illuminated MSS., and these, together with many other very precious literary treasures, have their home in what is called the Manuscript Room.

This apartment is on the ground floor, and can only be seen by visitors who are able to secure the presence of the Librarian or one of the Fellows of the College. The most famous of these literary treasures are exhibited in cases which stand on the floor of the great library, and among these the highest place is held by the Book of Kells. This is one of the finest MSS. in Europe, and as a specimen of Irish illumination and writing has no rival. It dates from the time when Ireland, under the name of Scotia, was famous throughout Europe for her schools and for her missionary enterprise. It was the product of the age which sent Columba to Iona, Cuthbert to England, and Columbanus to Gaul. It is a copy of the Gospels, and takes its name from the fact that it once belonged to the monastery at Kells in Meath.