London to Melbourne

Front matter

LONDON TO MELBOURNE ERRATA. Page 19, line 18, for " has " read have. OQ 17 \ " ac' " an [for " Lorre dell Annunziata " read Torre. „ -6, „ 60, J ,, 61, ,, 4, Read and so conciliate Bachux, well, the number. ,, 242, ,, 33, for " I wonder. Do they " read I wonder do they. LONDON TO MELBOURNE in MARCHAMP LONGWAY (J. 0. P. W.) "gonbon REMINGTON & CO PUBLISHERS HENRIETTA STREET COVENT GARDEN iSSq [AM rii/his retetped CONTENTS. CHAT. PAGE. I. The Start 1 II. In the Mediterranean ... ... ... 14 III. Naples 35 IV. The Suez Canal 96 V. The Red Sea 110 VI. Cape Guardafui 123 VII. The Chagos Archipelago ... ... 134 VIII. Tlic Chagos Archipelago (continued) ... 149 IX. King George's Sound ... ... ... 165 X. Adelaide 170 XI. Melbourne 17 S XII. The Melbourne Cup 203 XIII. Melbourne Sights 224 XIV. To Sydney 231 XV. Sydney ... 247 XVI. Conclusion ...

Preface

. It was not my intention to publish this small volume, but some of my friends thought that the parts relating to Australia might prove useful information to those about proceeding there, by offering them a few practical hints as to their mode of procedure on landing, and what they may sub sequently expect should they decide on fixing their abode 'neath the Southern Cross. The whole thing was at first written in the form of a rough journal ; as much for the purpose of varying the monotony on board ship — for reading at times fatigues the mind, whilst writing relieves it — as for future reference, should I wish to remind myself of the incidents of the journey. Without altering the form of my journal, or changing the words, I give the voyage to Melbourne as it occurred, and remind those who are desirous of knowing how time passes on board an Orient steamer for the space of six weeks, that one trip is more or less like another. In giving an account of the ruins of Pompeii, I believed I was supplying a want, as faithful or

PREFACE.

. comprehensive descriptions of the exhumed city are not, that I am aware of, published. The information concerning the Colonies is mostly derived from the experience of others, told me ou the spot. On this account I was obliged to inter lard the description here and there, at different periods, giving to the whole, I am afraid, rather a patchwork appearance ; but as accuracy of detail was more aimed at than elegance of diction, I trust my readers will make reasonable allowances for this latest outrage on society, by THE AUTHOR. British Guiana, March,

Chapter I. The Start

16th September, 188 — . — Started from Fenchurch Street Station at one o'clock p.m. to meet tender at Gravesend, and arrived on board Royal Mail Steamer L at 2.30. This steamer is one of the best appointed of The Orient Line, and when sailing at this period of the year generally carries her full complement of passengers. The months of September and October are called by sea captains " the migration period," as at this time people who wish to escape the rigour of an English winter take their departure to more southerly climates. Consequently, on getting on board, I was not at all surprised to find an immense crowd of all classes with their propor tionate amount of luggage blocking up the gang ways and extending themselves over the decks to the obstruction of general traffic ! It is always difficult to convince kind-hearted people that the obligation of " seeing their friends off " is a society blunder !

The moment of parting must B come, and it is better that the ceremony of leave taking should take place under the covered pre cincts of a family mansion than on the deck of a passenger steamer with five hundred people looking on ! Besides, friends are in the way when the traveller is endeavouring to collect himself and make sure he has not forgotten anything of consequence during the last few moments ! I was pleased to find that the ship's surgeon was an old friend of mine ; we had been to college together, and this was the second occasion on which I had unexpectedly encountered him during fifteen years ! A familiar face is always an antidote to loneliness, and in addition to being familiar, my friend had the advantage of possessing a jovial and contented temperament, discovering grains of mirth where others could perceive naught but solemnity.

Among the passengers on board was the R. C. Cardinal of Sydney, with a large number of his clergy and some sisters of charity — some of the latter, I understand, are en route to Naples ; there are many Australians, a few New Zealanders, and a fair sprinkling of the conventional English tourists. We are to be joined by another con tingent of wanderers when we get to Plymouth, and it is expected that when all who have engaged their passages are on board there will be few, if any, berths unoccupied. On making my way to the cabin allotted me no easy matter ! — I found that the utmost had been made of the small space, and four beds had been crammed into a room which under ordinary circumstances only gave accommodation to two. Looking at the outlines of a steamer given in the shipping office, the state rooms appear large and well ventilated.

The traveller is scarcely prepared for the shock that awaits him when he is shown a wretched little cell of about five feet square and informed that no larger accommodation can be afforded to four people for a journey of ten thousand miles. How we are to manage when we get into warm weather I do not like to antici pate. Two of my cabin companions have alreadv taken possession of their berths, and I am pleased to find that they are civilized men and are disposed to make things pass agreeably. The third will come on board at Plymouth. The thing most to be dreaded would be a foreigner thrust in amongst us; his language we might understand, but his customs, never ! Having put away our luggage, we turned to the saloon in the hope of having some lunch provided for us; many had scarcely breakfasted — what with the trying ordeal of parting with friends, getting luggage transported, etc., etc. — and as the train left London at one o'clock there was no chance of lunching before coming away.

There was not as much on the tables of the saloon as would feed a hungry mouse, and on appealing to the chief steward to let us have some bread and cheese we were told that dinner hour was six o'clock and without special orders from shore he could give nothing out until then. This early example of cheeseparing on the part of so eminently respectable a Company did not predis pose us to think well of them. Tobacco and conversation may be good to while away the hours, but they do not fortify the system. At four o'clock the steamer began to steam slowly in the direction of the Nore, but on arrival there was obliged to anchor on account of there not being sufficient water to pass the bar. The weather was cold and rainy, and everything bore a cheerless aspect. When the long-wished-for hour of dinner arrived few of us had much appetite to enjoy it ; hope deferred had its proverbial nauseating effect — not on our hearts, but on our stomach !

Another fearfully depressing influence was at work to make us long for the pleasant, lamp-lit room on shore ; the electric light, so much boasted of and so often held out as an extra inducement to take passage on whatever steamer it is used, began to play us a. succession of the most extraordinary tricks. At one period it would leave the saloon in darkness, then give a jump, in a manner quite startling, and show a brilliancy sufficient to illuminate the minutest crevice. " How beautiful ! " someone would say, and take up a book or newspaper and begin to read ; others would hunt up their writing materials and begin their correspondence ; then gradually the light would fade until it became corpse-like. " Oh, hang this ! " some male individual would call out ; " Steward, bring us some candles."

Then would enter a steward bearing a couple of old-fashioned candlesticks with a small candle flickering in each, then up would jump the light with light ning-like rapidity and make the flames appear like two little red coals ! At eleven o'clock there was a final jump and a flicker, and then the light went quite out. We waited a few minutes to see it rise again, but it ob stinately remained out, and then the stewards came to inform us that it was time to retire, that all lights are put out at eleven, and that we must grope our way to our bunks as best we could. A good thing that the shareholders of the company were not present to hear some of the muttered criticisms that were passed on their boats ! or possibly it might have done some good if they had been present and subject to the annoyance we were obliged to endure !

After receiving a few con tusions from the boxes of my cabin companions I managed to find my bunk. During the early part of the night a portion of the machinery kept on making a most hideous noise, something between a scream and a groan. At irregular intervals of three minutes, five minutes, and ten minutes, and generally just at the moment of dropping asleep, this horrible sound would come up from the engine room and produce an excitability that made repose a mockery ! After tossing about for a long time a disturbed slumber came to my rescue, and thus ended my first day's experience on board the SS. L ! Moralizing over the events of the day, there are two things which appear strange on a sumptuous steamer of this class : firstly, that so many hours should elapse after the passengers come on board before any refreshment is offered them ; the amount saved to the Company by such proceeding, can signify little in comparison with the name of parsimony that comes to be freely circulated among tourists, apart from the con sideration of the desirability of fortifying the systems of passengers on the eve of a voyage to sea ! and secondly, the inexpressible inconvenience of leaving cabins in total darkness at eleven o'clock !

If it be the determination to adhere to old-fashioned customs whilst at sea, would it not be contributing to the comfort of travellers if during their first night on board they were allowed to use their cabin lights, if only required for the purpose of getting accustomed to their surroundings ? Nsow that the danger of fire is so far minimized by the introduction of electric light, and the engine of the steamer kept con stantly going supplies the electricity at a trifling cost, where would be the objection to granting so desirable a convenience ? There is much less danger of fire from well-regulated lamps (in those vessels where electricity is not used) than from compelling passengers to light matches to escape their shins coming in contact with their own or their neighbours' boxes ! It is true that in some cases the ship's surgeon may order the lights to be kept burning, but only in a few cases is he supposed to exercise his discretion in this respect.

If he allows his good nature to override estab lished rules, in a very short time he will have his employers casting reproachful glances at him, and hinting that he is not, perhaps, the accomplished physician that they at one time thought him ! Those who have travelled with young children can only estimate the doleful results of having their cabins in darkness ! Without alluding to possible cases, take an ordinary case. A child calls for water in the night — as he is sure to do after the first stages of sea-sickness are over ; the mother clambers out of her unaccustomed couch, during the lurching of the vessel, to grope for the bottle. She strikes against something and begins to lament ! The father then has a try. He comes in contact with some article of family lugga°*e and begins to swear!

Meanwhile the unfortu nate child is crying out with all its might for what it cannot obtain, the others wake up, and then there is general confusion and misery in the darkness — first endeavouring to pacify the chil dren and then getting them off to sleep again ! The compulsory putting out of bedroom lights belongs to a bygone age, and should no longer form one of the horrors of travelling. The objection formerly raised was that from having so many lamps burning there was an increased risk of fire. Since the adoption of electricity as an illuminating medium the excuse given is that the lights are misleading to other vessels. There seems as much validity in one excuse as the other. As I have explained, the throwing about of matches is far more likely to lead to a conflagration than a well-regulated system of lamps, and as to electric lights being calculated to throw a vessel out of her course, there is as much likelihood of their having this effect on the planet Jupiter. 17th September. — Awoke this -Corning to find at my bedside what looked suspiciously like a cup of black draught, and indeed what tasted very little better — a cup of coffee !

I made a reckless endeavour to gulp the mixture down, but it was cold, and from neglect of the percolating arrangement there was an over-abundance of what sailors call "the stuff that costs the money." Why is it so difficult to obtain a good cup of tea or coffee on board passenger steamers ? The cooks are paid high wages and carry first-class recommendations, yet put them to the simple task of making tea and they fail most utterly. There is nothing more recuperating after the exhaustion which follows sea-sickness, or during the nausea which precedes it, than a good cup of well-flavoured tea. I am not sure that in some cases it would not act as a specific and ward off the attack. Anyhow, this homely luxury cannot be obtained. Is it the fault of the tea itself ? Speak to the captain on the subject and he will tell you what that tea cost, where it was obtained, and its whole history.

The cook and steward will unite in saying that it was " drawn " after the old orthodox method, that the vessels were clean, the water boiling, and there was no subsequent decocting process of putting the tea-pot to stand on the stove. The mystery I am afraid must remain unsolved until some broken-down lodging-house keeper takes possession of the cooks' department, aud then, but not till then, shall we get good tea. On clambering to the deck I found that signals were being exchanged between our steamer and the signal station at Dover Castle. The morning was cold and uninviting, so without being attracted by the white cliffs I went downstairs until breakfast was ready. After breakfast some little excitement was occasioned by one of the transatlantic steamers endeavouring to pass us. The heavy columns of smoke issuing from her funnels showed that her engineers were piling on the fuel regardless of the owner's interests.

Our captain said he would not race for any consideration, but would be " bio wed " before he would allow " that lubber to lick us ! " Both steamers were about matched in point of size aud steam power, and for a time it was impossible to tell which was gaining the advantage. Looking at the other from our vessel she appeared stationary in the water, only by the spray dashing up about her bows could we perceive the rate she was going at, and looking at the water from our bulwarks it was evident we were going at no mean pace either. A race of any description is always interesting, whether on sea or land, and it was amusing to observe the anxiety of the passengers — who had only been a few hours on board— that we should " whip " our opponents. Old and young took part in it, even some of the priests had a racy twinkle in their eyes, and one big Irishman, with a wide mouth, wagged his head and laughed till the tears rolled down his cheeks.

To do our engineers justice, they did not seem to be sacrificing fuel, judging from the small quantity of rather clear smoke that came from our funnels ; probably they thought that extraordinary measures were unnecessary to enable us to hold our own. But the exertions on board the other steamer did not slacken. If they had adopted the method of the Mississippi boats when racing, of putting pork on the fires and a nigger sitting on the safety valve, larger volumes of smoke could not come away. Towards mid-day the advantage was decidedly on our side, which caused a few faint cheers to emanate from the fore part of our vessel. After lunch time, our opponents seemed to have collapsed altogether ; they disappeared to windward as if their vessel had stopped steam. There could be no question but that their captain, contrary to all the inhibitive instructions given to skippers generally, was actually racing us, and, finding he could not pass us, or even bold his own, gave up his extraordinary exertions in despair and immediately fell behind, showing that in point of speed his vessel was inferior.

It is not so long since, in the British Isles, racing at sea was not only practised by rival captains, but countenanced by ship-owners, but when it was found that so much property came to be lost and so many lives sacrificed, the custom was [abandoned as a losing and a stupid one. Ship-masters are now cautioned under no provocation whatever to risk their owners' property by racing. I remember the case of two rival lines sailing to the same ports in South America from Liverpool. On one occasion each had a new steamer starting on the same day ; the last instructions given to the masters were, "Whatever you do, get in before the other steamer ! " One of them carried out his instruc tions to the letter, and got in on the rocks a few miles north of his first port of arrival just two days before his rival had approached the spot.

This little encounter of ours in the Channel served to pass away the tedium of a first day's voyage ; time hangs heavily when passengers are strangers to each other and still within sight of land. Once away from land, or in view of a strange land, and there is a feeling of companion ship throughout a ship's company which unites them together. Often in foreign ports people meeting on shore will smile and nod to each other, though they may never have exchanged words on board. The day came to an end at the traditional hour of 'eleven p.m., when the lights were extinguished and the passengers huddled off to their lairs. 18th September. — Awoke to find the steamer at anchor in Plymouth harbour. The weather had cleared up and the surrounding hills looked beautiful in the morning's sun. In the distance were the white buildings of the town, and above them coming from the lofty chimneys were wreaths of smoke curling peacefully upwards.

Altogether rather an aggravating spot of old England to take a farewell glance at. If it were some desolate region close to Land's End, one would not feel the parting so much, but Plymouth, always picturesque from the sea and especially at early morning, so English-looking and provokingly suggestive of home, it is almost cruel to make passengers embark there. When the lighter came on board at about eleven o'clock a.m. there was a repetition on a smaller scale of Gravesend — everything was confusion and bustle. Our fourth cabin companion turned out to be a German — the very thing that we were hoping against that he should be a foreigner. His large body must make a difference in our small space, and the luggage he has brought with him will render ingress or egress a matter of difficulty. At noon the clatter of the bell was heard announcing to all those who had no business on board to betake themselves ashore.

For a moment there was a confused mass of people hugging each other over the gangway, then the place was cleared and further communication took place by word of mouth and waving of handkerchiefs. " Tell Thomas I will write to him ; " " Give Mary Ann my love ; " " Kiss the children for me," etc., etc., the usual string of phrases exchanged between people who are not likely to see each other for a long time. The gun going off caused another explosion of pent-up feeling and a repetition of parting phrases. After this, I was pleased to|feel the engines begin to move, and we were fairly started on our voyage. Before very long, even before the echo of the shore voices had died in our ears, a thin blue line far astern marked the last glimpse of the shores of England that many on board are fated to see for a long time to come.

It was a relief to get away from the turmoil and fuss of shore, but there continued on board a noise and confusion that was almost as bad. Passengers of all classes running to and from the purser's office, making inquiries at the tops of their voices about their luggage and accommodation, parcels and baggage getting mixed up and misplaced, second and third class children planting themselves in first class places, and insisting on their rights of possessorship. Added to all this, the premonitory symptoms of sea-sickness were beginning to show themselves here and there, and the wailings proceeding therefrom reminded us that the pleasures of a sea trip had commenced. The day passed slowly enough. At tea time the electric light, by way of entertaining the new arrivals, caused some consternation by giving its usual jump and flicker and going completely out.

This time it did not appear so humorously inclined as previously, for it determinedly con tinued out, and no amount of persuasion could bring it back again. This obliged the stewards to scatter, and reintroduce the ghostly candles of two evenings ago. When it came to eleven o'clock the difference between our present light and obscurity was so little marked that few of us perceived the carrying out of the ship's orders. On retiring to our sleeping apartments I could not help thinking of what some of our London sanitary inspectors would say on the subject of overcrowding could they see the place into which we were packed. It was our first experience of four sleeping in a room which more properly should not accommodate more than two. Determined to make the best of everything, we resolved to be cheerful under the circumstances, though the effort was difficult.

In order not to miss one whiff of ventilation, we left our door open, but, unfortunately, being situated so close to the engine room, whatever air entered came impregnated with palm oil. We tried the port hole and got one delicious wave of fresh atmosphere, when it was succeeded by a wave of sea, nearly saturating my companion's bed. Our new shipmate, the German, suggested that we should risk rheuma tism by sleeping on deck in preference to suffoca tion in our bunks, and thinking that he meant himself, we grasped at the idea, but the next moment our hopes were dashed by his saying, "No, tank you; I 'ave se rheumatism already." I do not know if I am more susceptible than others to the influence of an impure atmosphere, but the sensations, after lying down for a short time, became very distressing — that feeling experienced in fevers of half insensibility, coupled with waking moments of severe headache, and an interlude of dreamy visions in which falling from lofty heights, chased by madmen, worried by reptiles, etc., formed a part.

All this with a consciousness of suffering, whether dozing or waking, and an intense longing that the night should be over. After going through some of the scenes of a midsummer night's dream, and been down to the bottom of the sea a few times, wrestling with leviathans, I felt something touch me on the arm, and woke up to find that it was daylight, for which I was sincerely thankful ; to find that I had a headache, for which I was not a bit thankful ; and to find the steward standing by my side with the morning's cup of black draught, for which (God forgive me!) I said I was thankful. CHAPTER TI. in the mediterranean. 19th September. — One of my cabin companions, in common with myself, has been suffering from a very disagreeable sensation of fulness and pain in the head. During the early part of the day the feeling became so distressing that we thought we had sufficiently qualified ourselves for quarters in one of those state rooms set apart for hospital purposes.

With this object in view we went to the ship's surgeon and explained our cases ; but he, contrary to all that might have been expected of him from old associations, said that he did not consider our cases sufficiently advanced to justify him in invaliding us. In vain we argued that prevention was better than cure, that if now taken from the impure atmosphere of our cabin some very serious infirmity might be averted, and that his skill would be none the less for anticipat ing such a calamity. No use ! he only laughed at us, and said that if our headaches should prove fatal, he would be very glad if we would leave him our brains for dissection ! My companion re marked that as he wanted brains it was a pity his parents did not leave him any ! which observation we left him to digest at his leisure and proceeded as a last resource to the cabin of the purser.

Never again shall I trust to the good offices of an old friend in time of trial. From the purser we could obtain no more satisfaction than that the vessel was full. The day passed unenlivened by any event of surpassing interest. Towards even ing our heads felt better, but still we were far from feeling happy, every hour brought us nearer to the period of our troubles, and I had fully determined to steal out of the cabin with my blankets and ensconce myself among the cushions of the saloon should there be a renewal of the sensations of last night. I communicated my resolve to my companion of the morning, and he was quite charmed with the idea. Between us we succeeded in hunting up the night steward, believing that we could pur chase his acquiescence. We described to him our sufferings, and told him what we proposed doing; he made light of the former, aud said that in a little time we should get quite accustomed to the cabin, and not suffer any more, that it was much worse in the glory hole — whatever part of the ship this may be — and that the stewards inhabiting that region are sometimes so prostrate after a night's rest that it is necessary to throw water over them, and spank them over the legs to make them wake up.

He refused a bribe (honest man), and promised not to wear spectacles during his night's watch. Fortified with this provision, we retired to our cabins and held a solemn council of war, after which we resolved ourselves into a sanitary committee, and upon reasoning over the unavoidable detriment to health occasioned by four occupying the same room, it was proposed and carried, with one dissentient voice (the German's), that the largest man should be forth with expelled, and that if he did not take to heart the interests of the community and go quietly, physical force should be called into requisition, and he be compelled to go. Whereupon succeeded the most terrific bolstering-match ever witnessed on board a ship. To do the German justice, he fought like a man evidently drilled to this species of warfare; he got his back against the wall and wielded his pillow with such dexterity and irre sistible force as in most instances to break through our guards and floor us as quickly as we approached him.

How long the struggle would have lasted it is impossible to say ; it was at its height when one unlucky stroke of a pillow hit the electric lamp, and the thing went into pieces with a noise as if a gun had been fired. In a moment we were in our bunks pretending to be fast asleep. We were scarcely settled when we heard the voice of a quartermaster outside, saying — "This ain't conduct at all, it's again the rules of the ship, I tell ye. No passengers is allowed to be a skylarking and a rollicking at this time of night. I'm going to fetch the captain, do ve hear?" A prolonged snore from the German set us all tittering. "Oh, it's laughing you are," continued the quartermaster ; " wait till I tell the captain, see if I don't!" As his retreating footsteps were heard, we sat up in bed and began to realize the situation.