After Ophir; or, a search for the South African Gold Fields ... With ... illustrations

Chapter I

Meditating on the Proposed Journey— Arrival of an Old Chum — News from the New Ophir— Admiral Owen's Theory on the Fleets of Tharshish— Golden Reasons for placing fh 2 Eldorado in Africa — Form a Party, and decide to be after Ophir — Compagnons die Voyage —Arrival at Natal — Its Appearance — The Ox-Waggon — Custom-House Officers at Durban — "The Harbour Works — The Young Boers and the Locomotive

Chapter II

Houses built upon the Sands — Durban Dignity — The Town : its Deathly Dulness — Unsocial Population — Sectarianism — Bad News of Ophir — A Durban Philanthropist — Form our Expedition, and Start for the Umtwalumi in search of Solomon's Gold-fields — Scenery en route — Camping out — Waggon travelling a la Boer — Al fresco Concerts — Casting Diamond Ballast — Arrive at the Umtwalumi River — Gold Diggers and their Specimens — Our Tent

Chapter III

"Native Reserves "—The Gold Diggers — A Sable Venus — A Nocturnal Adventure with a Mysterious Visitor — Pleasures of "Prospecting" — I turn Builder — The Result of my Handiwork — Thomas, my Valet — My First Snake — Meet an Alligator under Water — The Gold Formation — Beef, Mutton, and Mealies — Adventure with a Wolf — A Huge Wild Boar...

Chapter IV

Horizontal Human Sign-posts — Unpleasantly involved in Bridal Ceremonies a la Kaffir — A Grand Umjardu — Undress of the Dancers — The Bride — The Old Fugleman — Repulsive Incident — Uncleanliness of Natives — Turn Doctor : its Unpleasant Consequences — Native Converts — A Gigantic and too susceptible Inamorato — A War Dance by Kaffir Warriors at Night — The Bride's Unyielding Modesty, and a Curious Marriage Custom ...

Chapter V

A Presentiment, and an Adventure with a Puff- Adder — Auto-da-fe of Serpents — Roger's Confession — Carlotta — Love in the Wilderness — A "Lead" of Gold — Carlotta's Father has the Ophir Fever — I become Umtargarti — Louis catches an Oribe, and makes a Discovery — Fight between the Amabaccas (see Frontispiece) — A Parley, and Explanation of the Hostilities — The Chief, Domise, and his Wife, Sharlular — Repulse of the Enemy ... VI Contents. PAGE 78 103 122 138 150 .65 '79 chapter VI. "Sluicing" Operations — A "Scotchman" — Hegira of Diggers — The Iquifa Falls — A Native Snake Doctor — Monsieur Louis' Adventure with a Singular Snake — Arrive at the Umzinto — A Dangerous Sportsman — A Gold-Digger's Subterranean Adventure : his Treatment by the Australians — The Umzinto — A Difficulty with a few Kaffir Ladies— A New Settler, with 2,000 Acres of Quartz — Fall in with Diggers from Australia — The Gold Formation — Baboons — Natal and its Products

Chapter VII

Arrival of 200 Australian Gold-Diggers at Durban : Treatment they Experienced — We Decide on Travelling to the Reputed Gold Regions of the Interior — Joined by the Van Meyer Family — Plan and Start of our Expedition — Carlotta — The Marmbar : Adventure with One — Gold-digging at the Tugela — The Auriferous Formation — Miss van Meyer's Influence on our Camp Life — She Improves our Music — A Tragic Story — We are nearly dashed to pieces — Meet with Bushmen — A Bushman Musician

Chapter VIII

We Travel due North— Bushmen : the Life they Lead — An Alarm, and an Adventure with an Extraordinary Electric Fish— Combat between a Leopard and an Ant-bear — A Fever Country — Reach Higher and more Healthy Land : Its Scenery, Game, and non-auriferous Formation — Alligators and Hippopotami at the Pongolo River — We try a Hippopotamus Steak, and an Alligator tries to obtain a Beefsteak ...

Chapter IX

The Zulu Country and its Three Tribes— Arrival at an important Kraal— A Knobkerfie Dance — Ketchwayo, Heir-apparent to the Zulu Throne — An Interview and an Oratorical Display with that Chief— He lays an Embargo on our Progress — Physiology of the Kaffirs — Native Women— Shlekashlekar— Head-dress a la Umbabazo— Kaffir Music ...

Chapter X

Shooting on the Banks of the Pongolo River — A Fracas with the Zulu Hunters— Scenery near the River— Our Rifle Practice Ruse to overcome the Opposition to our Pro<ress — The Natives give a Feast in our Honour — Hut-singing— Monsieur Louis attacked by Bush Pigs— He discovers Vegetable Ivory, and turns Collector thereof— A Perilous Adventure with a large Marmbar — The Death of " Loup "

CHAPTER XL

Difficulty of Waggon Travelling— Scenery on the Usuto River— Strange Fish— A Thief, and his Clever Detection by a " Medicine Man," or Native Doctor— Impediments to Travelling— The Bush in Amaswarzi Land — Our Black Cook gets Seized by a Huge Boa Constrictor The Shlomoshlomo Mountains Bar the Way— A Nocturnal Hunt for Wild Boars Our Return to Camp through the Jungle

Chapter XII

We meet Makushlar, Chief Paramount of the Amaswarzis— He Behaves Rudely to Carlotta, and gets Kicked — The Amaswarzis Threaten us and Declare War— Our Defensive Measures A Desperate Night Attack on our Position ; its Repulse— Our First Giraffe — Receive an Embassy from Makushlar, who makes a Tempting Offer of Marriage and of Regal Partnership—A New Style of Scenery— Geological Formation— Our First Glimpse of Lions Contents.

Chapter XIII. Page

A Kaffir Leopard Hunt — We are StQpped by Heavy Rain : Our Proceedings during the Delay — Monsieur Louis Consults the Ninth Chapter of Genesis— An Alarm : Tom, our Black Cook, Climbing a Tree to Rob a Nest, is in Great Peril by the Attack of an Immense " Umunto-umrari," or "Man-eater" Eagle — I Discover a New Kind of Tea — About the Sociality and Hospitality of the Kaffirs — No Man's Land — Quartz Formation at the Sabia River 199

Chapter XIV

The Quartz Formation non-auriferous — Christmas Eve — Munjubar — How we spent Christmas Day — Dusky Belles for Vis-d-vis — Geological Features North of the Sabia — A Convoy of Slaves — Bovine Passion, Possessions, and Characteristics of the Kaffirs — Treatment of Native Women — We Find an Old Man left to Perish in the Bush — Indecent Disposal of the Kaffir Dead — Arrive at the Chief, Umzielar's — His Appearance, and friendly reception of our Party ... 214

Chapter XV

Hopes of Ophir — A Ruse to Prospect the Umziela Country — The Damsels Lungarzi and Emshlopeiligugu — Prospecting Plans — The Natives' Surprise at our White Skins — A Delicate and Embarrassing Situation d Id Iquoqa: How we Escape from it — The "long Yankee " and Myself refuse to become Kaffirs, and Reject an Offer of the Chief's Daughters in Marriage — Game on the Limpopo — A Perilous Adventure with Rhinocerotis : Kaffir Rejoicing at our Victory — Singular Hills near the Limpopo River 229

Chapter XVI

A Buffalo Fight — A Vegetable Discovery — Nocturnal Adventure with a Lion — Hydropathy Extraordinary — We Bag an Elephant — New Scenery — Arrive at Basuetlar Land — We are Strange Flesh to the Natives — Their Friendliness — They Wonder at our White Skins, our Hair, and Beards — Targarti again — Geological Formation of the Country — The Mighty Baobab at last — Vast Herds of Game 248

Chapter XVII

An Alligator Hunt by the Basuetlars— Harpooning Hippopotami— A Prolonged Fight with an Old Bull : His ultimate Capture — We Make for the Tatin — Curious Hills— Mynheer sticks in the River — The " Vaalpen" — We arrive at the so-called Tatin Gold-fields— Find Forty Diggers, but extremely little Gold— A Prospecting Party up the River— A Snake Duel Extraordinary — Buffalo at the Tatin ... ... ••■ ••• •■• ■■• 265

Chapter XVIII

Start for the Source of the Tatin— A Bad Shot at Ostriches-Geological and Auriferous Formation at the so-called "Tatin Gold Fields "—Ophir still fades— Workings of Ancient Diggers : Remains of a Stone Fort built by them ; Who were they ? Portuguese, or Egyptians of Solomon?— The Source of the Tatin— Adventure with a Vicious Rhinoceros— We reach the Matabele Outposts, and are refused permission to enter their Country— Their Origin and Appearance ... ... ... ... ••• •■• ••• ••• 281

Chapter XIX

Matabele Elephant Hunters— The Sword is Victorious— Reasons for Abandoning the Search after Ophir — Most Likely Spot for Gold in South-East Africa— Start on the Back Journey —A Bush Fire— Shoshong and its Chief, Machin— A Ruse to avoid Extortion -Dane; of the Bechuana Women at Night — Incidents of our Journey through the Transvaal Republic— Arrive and Separate at Potchefstroom — Marriage and Conclusion ... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PACE TAGE The Death of " Loup " 163 View on the Usuto River 166 Bush Scenery in Amaswarzi Land ... 172 The Return from our Nocturnal Hunt 177 Leopard attacked by a Python ... 183 The Long Yankee's Shot 191 View from the Strange Rock ... 196 Our First View of Lions 197 A Kaffir Leopard Hunt 200 Tom attacked by a " Man-Eater " Eagle 205 Quartz Formation at the Sabia River 212 Our Prospecting for Gold at the Sabia River 215 The Slave Convoy 220 The Chief Umzielar 227 Dance of the Umzielas 228 Lungarzi 231 Emshlopeiligugu 231 Game on the Limpopo 239 A Meeting with Rhinocerotis ... 242 View near the Limpopo 247 Combat between two Buffalo Bulls 249 A Close Shot 253 Surprised by Elephants 256 Portion of the Baobab 261 Game in Basuetlar Land 264 Basuetlar Hunters harpooning an Alligator 266 Basuetlars harpooning Hippopotami 270 Capture of the Hippopotamus ... 272 Pass leading from the Valley to the Plains ... ... 274 Diggers at the Tatin 278 Buffalo at the Tatin 280 A Shot at Ostriches 283 The Source of the Tatin 289 The "Long Yankee's" Horse in Danger 291 Matabele Kaffirs "j 2qx The Sword is Victorious ... ." 297 Dance'of the Bechuana Women ... 307 Kaffirs coming to Trade 3IO Fight BETWEEN THE AMABACCAS Frontispiece Fishing Smacks in the Channel ... 7 Our First View of South-east Africa ii An Industrious Settler 19 Camping Out 25 Our Tent 30 Diggers at the Umtwalumi 33 Our Early Visitor 34 Pool on the Little Umgeni Rivulet 43 The Bride 50 The War Dance 57 Kraal where the Umjardu took Place 59 The Meeting with Carlotta 65 Monsieur Louis' Chase after the Oribe 70 Domise 74 Sharlular 75 Amabaccas Encamping 77 The Iquifa Falls 81 The Umzinto 89 A New Settler's Builders 93 Australian Diggers Prospecting ... 97 Carlotta 107 Confluence of the Buffalo and Tugela Rivers 109 Gold Diggers at the Tugela ... 112 The Bushmen's Camp 119 The Bushman Musician 121 The Bushman's Feast 123 Combat between the Ant-bear and the Leopard .. 127 Hippopotami on the Pongolo 135 An Alligator trying to seize one of our Oxen 137 A Knobkerrie Dance 139 Ketchwayo 140 Shlekashlekar 146 Umbabazo Style of Head-dress ... 148 Wild Fowl Shooting at the Pongolo 151 View on a Creek near the Pongolo River 154 Monsieur Louis attacked by Wild Pigs ,.60 Place

Chapter I

Meditating on the Proposed Journey— Arrival of an Old Chum— News from the New Ophir— Admiral Owen's Theory on the Fleets of Tharshish — Golden Reasons for placing the El Dorado in Africa — Form a Party, and decide to be after Ophir — Compagnons du Voyage — Arrival at Natal — Its Appearance— The Ox- Waggon— Custom-House Officers at Durban— " The Harbour Works" — The Young Boers and the Locomotive. IT was a very hot and sultry morning in the early part of June, 1868 — and reminded me of old tropical experience — as I sat in my London chambers, thinking, ruminating, weighing the pros and cons, and trying to make up my mind whether I should leave old England once again, or, like Hamlet, decide that 'twas better to " bear those ills we have, than fly to others that we know not of." I lighted a fresh Manilla, shifted my easy chair j'ust a little further into the warm rays of the sunshine — creeping, like very incongruous trespassers, over the depressing prospect of the great city's dingy roofs and chimney-pots — and then settled down into a still more profound meditation ; with my heels upon the window-sill, my eyes fixed upon a huge yellow " poster," which I had that morning obtained, and whereon, in large capitals, appeared the following conspicuous heading : — "GOLD!

GOLD!! GOLD!!! The New Gold Fields of South Africa." The mythic Queen of Sheba ; the fleets of Tharshish ; Hiram, king of Tyre ; and Hiram, the cunning man ; Solomon's Temple ; " six hundred B threescore and six talents of gold " per annum ; and the Castles of Ophir — the golden myth of so many ages — were the materials with which I built my castles in the air. Not long, however, was I left to the devices of an over-vivid imagination. Bang — bang — bang at my door, and down went all the baseless fabrics ■of my noonday dream. "Ahoy, there! Ahoy! What cheer, old boy; what cheer?" roared the stentorian voice of my old chum and tried friend, Roger Pocklington. I had been expecting him, so was not surprised. Some few years ago we had served together in the army of the Taiping revolutionists in China, and had gone safe through many wild scenes of peril, warfare, and adventure.

Now, being tired of the dull, tame life that a person without any occupation leads in England, we were thinking of making a move again, and trusted that it might be in company. The fact is, we were restless beings ; always longing for the neverceasing change and excitement of a roving and adventurous life in a wild country. To this we had become accustomed ; and eveiy one knows how hard it is to break through the habits and modes of living that grow up as a second nature. No. There was but very little doubt about it ; neither I nor my friend were yet fitted to settle down in civilised communities — we should have passed but indifferently well as grave and reverend seigneurs. " Well, old boy," said Roger, picking out a cheroot, and bringing himself to anchor, " what news of Ophir to-day ?" " News enough," I replied, picking up the last mail's batch of papers, and handing him the Natal Mercury.

"Whew!" cried Roger, reading aloud — " ' Potchefstroom, yd December, 1867. " 'Sir, — Mr. H. Hartley, the well-known elephant-hunter, may count amongst the results of his last hunt the discovery of two gold-fields of enormous length ; the first of which has been traced and seen in different latitudes to extend to more than eighty miles in extent, by from two to three miles in breadth. The other is twenty-two miles broad, and promises to be most valuable I may mention that many smaller and isolated veins containing this precious metal have been discovered. " By Jcve ! Now then, just listen to what follows," exclaimed Roger. " ' The vast extent and beauty of these gold-fields is such that, at a particular spot, I stood, as it were A Fortune in Prospect. 3 transfixed, riveted to the place, struck with amazement and wonder at the sight, and for a few minutes was unable to use the hammer.

Thousands of persons might here find ample room to work on this extensive gold-field, without interfering with one another. The above I can vouch for as facts, and specimens now in my possession will prove their truth. C. MAUCH, Ndturdlist."' "Well, what do you think of that, Roger?" I inquired, when he had read the startling paragraph. " Think ! Why that, if it's true, we can make our fortunes. But who is this Mauk — Mauch — what's his name ? How is he authenticated or corroborated?" " By all the South African papers. Here they are. The whole thing seems definitely settled. Mauch is termed ' Herr,' and is stated to be a savant travelling and exploring under the auspices of Dr. Petermann, of Gotha, the well-known editor of the Geographical Journal ; besides, he is known as an accredited and commissioned explorer of the Geographical Society of Gotha So the man must be respectable enough, and his reports reliable.

He has declared that his discoveries surpass the gold-fields of either California or Australia, and others corroborate him. All the colonial papers support him ; and it is again declared that the auriferous site of Ophir has been re-discovered. Now, old boy, I vote that we wait for the next mail, and then, supposing that the statements are still credited, and receive fresh confirmation, be off at once." " Carried nem. con." cried Roger, adding, " then hey for Ophir and its nuggets ! " Before having this conversation, we had taken pains to investigate all evidence as to the existence of gold in south-eastern Africa. One of the greatest modern authorities we came across was the late Admiral Owen, who had surveyed the whole of that coast, and who, besides finding virgin gold in the possession of the natives, formed an ingenious and seemingly logical theory that old Solomon's Ophir must have been in the vicinity of Sofala — which he considered a corruption of the ancient name — because, by reason of the build and sailing qualities of the fleets of Tharshish, and the steady, unalterable character of the prevailing trade winds or monsoons, their voyage to and fro from Solomon's abode to that place would have occupied just the "three years" mentioned in the Scriptures.

B Ancient geographers, from time immemorial, have placed that tantalising ignis fatuus of an Ophir on the continent of Africa. Amongst others, the well-known authorities Gosselin and D'Anville have favourably commented upon them. The editor of the Port Elizabeth Telegraph stated himself to be in possession of a remarkable * Geography of the World," which was published in 1646 ; and that the author, under the division of Ethiopia Superior, which he divides into five regions, states that the third is called Mono molapa, and is reported to contain three thousand mines of gold. Then we heard of the map compiled by one Monsieur de la Rochette, in 1783, the same proving him either to have been an ingenious thinker in the geographical line, or to have possessed a much better acquaintance with the interior of Africa than those who now follow in his footsteps.

The respected editor of the Cape Argus, commenting upon this same ancient map, affirms that the discoveries of Baker, Speke, Grant, and Livingstone are but " confirmations of those made and published generations ago." Then, last but not least, Herr Mauch's gold-fields are well known, as we are told that " taking Zwartkop's Bay as a base, a straight line of a thousand miles, in a course nearly due north, crosses two localities which are marked by Rochette as gold mines. A little further northward — say another hundred miles — we come across a district marked ' very rich in gold!' " But, more than all — above all — we were impressed with the prophetic utterances of Sir Roderick Murchison, the world-famed President of the Royal Geographical Society. I believe that he predicted the existence of gold in California ; and it is notorious that, prior to its discovery in Australia, he publicly declared his opinion that the precious metal ought to be found in the Australian Alps, from the remarkable coincidence of their structure with that of the Ural Mountains.

But he has also further remarked that the same physical laws were applicable to the great mountain-chain of south-eastern Africa. After the lapse of nearly a quarter of a century, these opinions seemed to be proved correct. It is also known that the Portuguese traded during many years, a century ago, for gold-dust, in the neighbourhood of Sofala, Delagoa Bay, and Inham- Corroborative Evidence. 5 bane, not far from the mouth of the Zambesi River, and in somewhere about the same latitude as this last discovery of Ophir. That gold existed in those latitudes was certain. The only question was, as to its exact whereabouts and quantity. I was quite ready to hail Sir Roderick Murchison as a prophet, and the late Admiral Owen as an authority upon the fleets of Tharshish ; I would willingly admit that the vessels may have returned from an African El Dorado, " bringing gold, and silver, ivory, and apes."

Yes, there are apes enough in Africa; but where from, I should like to know, came the "peacocks," the " precious stones," and the " great plenty of alumg trees ?" "Well," said Roger, sententiously, when I put this proposition before him, " the peacocks may have all flown away, the precious stones may be out of date, and no longer considered precious, and the alumg trees may have been all cut down to build the Temple, which, by all accounts, must have absorbed a young forest, at least." So we agreed to waive that question, and not bother ourselves about the jewels, the peacocks, and the alumg trees, especially as we had but very vague ideas as to what sort of vegetables the latter might be. Gold, apes, and ivory certainly remained ; and the first of these things would suffice for us. At this time, as a writer on the subject very pertinently put it, we began to reflect that " the power of the precious metal, whether found in grains or nuggets, has transcended the influence of all the systems of morality, philo sophy, jurisprudence, legislation, or government ever known.

The wilderness feels its power, and cities, with all their throbbing impulses and gigantic virtues and vices, spring into existence as by an omnipotent volition. What can it not do or undo ? What won't it buy, or what not pay for ? " Yes, the gold fever had come strong upon us, and we were destined to suffer for it. Besides this, however, two other causes had combined to decoy us to the wilds of Africa ; and the triad, irresistible together, overcame our last lingering doubts and scruples. Firstly, we suffered from the restlessness and love of change inherent in those who have for years led a life of travel and adventure. Secondly, a guide-book to that terra incognita, Natal, through which colony it was necessary to pass in order to reach the gold regions — a guide-book awful in its knowledge of good and evil, highly glorifying that unknown land, and setting forth the unequalled advantages of settling at a place so singularly favoured by Nature, and where a benign government would give you a farm of two or three hundred acres for nothing — had not a little to do with fixing our determination, for, if gold failed, here we were, turned into sons of the soil, and with rich farms to fall back upon.

Thirdly, lastly, and most powerfully, came, both within and beyond Natal — " Gold ! gold ! gold ! gold ! Bright and yellow, hard and cold, Molten, graven, hammered, and rolled ; Heavy to get and light to hold; Hoarded, bartered, bought, and sold ; Stolen, borrowed, squandered, doled; Spurned by the young, but hugged by the old To the very verge of the churchyard mould ; Price of many a crime untold ; Gold ! gold ! gold ! gold ! " Now I venture to appeal to my discerning readers, is not the prospect of a large and valuable estate, free gratis and for nothing, with the chance of finding a rich gold mine in the centre of it, quite sufficient provocation to induce the emigration of Her Majesty's lieges ? Of course it is, and certainly in our case prevailed. To read that awful book, and to consult its erudite compiler, the Govern ment Emigration Agent for Natal, was to learn that no such other Paradise existed under the sun, and that no other spot on earth contained such varied natural riches as its professedly teeming plantations of coffee, sugar, arrow root, cotton, tobacco, &c. Having patiently awaited the arrival of the next Cape mail, we received, on the 7th of July, the following additional intelligence : — " News has been received from the new gold diggings in South Africa.

Captain Black, with the Potchefstrom party of gold-diggers, had arrived at Shoostrong, the chief Matjen's head kraal, whose country is rich in gold-fields. . . . Matjen had received the party in a friendly manner, and pointed out the treasure;'' This, together with similar news in other papers, decided us to start at FISHING SMACKS IN THE CHANNEL.. Our Party. 9 once, so as to be among the earliest arrivals at the new El Dorado — the last-discovered gold-field in the world, and which, at the same time, by a singular coincidence, was supposed to be the most ancient. Besides Roger and myself, three of our friends, also victims to the gold fever, joined themselves to our party, and started after Ophir. They were the Messrs. Tom and William Ashwell, brothers, Transatlantic in their nationality ; besides Monsieur Louis de Glon, a young Swiss, of Teutonic race.

As our "enlightened citizens" could not leave London just yet, it was agreed that they should follow by steam, and join us at Natal. The rest of our party engaged passage in that lively— particularly lively— and well-known trader, the barque Priscilla. The rough weather we experienced in the Channel at starting kept most of our fellow-passengers out of sight until, off the Lizard, the weather moderated, and all hands showed up to have a look at the fishing-smacks, among which we were continually passing. Horridly dull and unenlivened was the voyage out ; uncomfortable, into the bargain, for I dare venture to affirm that seldom, either before, at present, or hereafter, were, are, or ever will be gathered together so unmannerly and cantankerous a set of individuals as were most of our fellow-passengers.

One extremely lanky young man, of twenty-three summers or there abouts — who had married the day before sailing, and had left his wife behind, and who generally became beery, maudlin, and affectionate several times a day — invariably began every conversation with, " My uncle, you know, the Lord High Treasurer at Natal, and son of Lord F.," &c. No matter what might be the subject, that unfortunate official was bound to be dragged into it somehow. Much joy do I wish him of his hopeful nephew! Then we had a rough-looking party, addicted to bad language and playing the cornet, who — with a flashy sort of wife — was always bragging about " their family hestate and all," in a county with which no one on board besides themselves seemed acquainted. This funny fellow at first rather tried to encourage the idea that he had been an officer, but the attempt soon collapsed when he found himself in the company of competent censors.

Our captain was a very pious man, an ardent follower of John Wesley, and gave us each day a theological display extraordinary. The poor man was, no doubt, sincere enough ; but his zeal very much distanced his discre tion and attainments. When he read the Bible, at every sentence he inter polated such strange commentaries of his own as produced only a very painful burlesque. He was in the habit of going round the decks, seizing upon all he could, and mysteriously informing them that "they must pray or perish;" whereas, in point of fact, we came much nearer to perishing through praying— or rather humouring the old man by listening to his wonderful rhapsodies — upon two occasions, when the ship was taken aback by a heavy squall, whilst all hands were in the cabin with him, except the man at the wheel.

Incidents of the voyage may be returned as nil. I can only remember two trifling events apart from the general discomfort and monotony. One day we caught a bonita, a fish hardly two feet long, but which, nevertheless, possesses such strength that the one in question fairly electrified the writer, and almost shook his right arm off when he tried to hold it by the tail, after hauling it up to the jib-boom end. Upon another occasion we saw, or thought that we saw, a white whale in the distance ; indeed, some who fancied that they beheld the strange object declared it to be very like that monster of the deep. On the eightieth day of our passage we came within sight of land, and caught our first glimpse of south-east Africa, at a part near the mouth of the St. John's River, where steep cliffs and rugged broken ranges of mountains stretched far as the eye could reach.

Upon the eighty-second day after leaving London, our vessel came to anchor off Natal. My first impressions, produced by the nature of the scenery, were far from being favourable. Nothing but dense low bush can be seen clothing successive stretches of sand or rock along the shores of this colony, which, for all its importance, and all the interest felt therein by the British public at large, may be concisely enough described as an Anglo-African settlement between the Equator and the South Pole. Should there be any one so curious as to wish for further The African Coast. 11 OUR FIRST VIEW OF SOUTH-EAST AFRICA. information, he will find that Natal lies on the south-east coast of Africa ; that its centre is in about latitude 29° 20' south, and longitude 30" 20' east, and that it contains about 18,000 square miles, with a sea-coast of about 130 miles in length.

Gazing upon its shores, in vain one thinks of the mighty baobab, that giant of the forest, which in some parts of Africa has been found with a trunk thirty feet in diameter, and an age that some of the highest scientific authorities have computed at over five thousand years ! The land possesses a very unpleasing and dwarfed appearance ; not alone from the presence of so many flat-topped hills, but from the stunted aspect of all its vegetation. Not a single exogenous stem attains the altitude of even forty feet upon this coast ; at about twenty feet everything in the shape of a branch is flattened down, and not a twig can rise above that arbitrary level. This singular law is most conspicuously illustrated by the growth and varieties of a tree the colonists name " flat-top," the summit of which is as level and sharply cut off as if it had grown against a solid roof.