My Old Playground revisited, a tour in Italy in the spring of 1881

Preface

. T WROTE this narrative of a short tour •*- in Italy to amuse myself. I have ventured to publish it because I thought it might possibly amuse other people. Those who have been over the same ground may find it interesting to compare their observations and impressions with my own. And those who have never ventured so far south, but may be con templating a similar tour, may learn that though they may, like ourselves, be con-

PREFACE.

. VIII siderably advanced in life, yet it is possible to undertake a tour of this kind without much difficulty or fatigue ; that two or three months may thus be most agreeably and profitably spent; and that they may return home, not only none the worse, but with many pleasant recollections and renewed health and strength. B. E. K. Hampton Court, Nov., 1881. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Maeseilles To Nice

Travelling with a Courier — Couriers' Club or Society — Paris — Journey to Marseilles — View of Mont Blanc — Arrival at Lyons — Lovely Scenery — Change of Climate — Beauties of the Riviera — Luncheon Baskets — Nice — Public Gardens — Climate and Temperature of Nice — The Chateau — Burning of the Opera-house — Monte Carlo — " LTnferno nel Paradiso " . . 3 CHAPTEE H. GENOA TO PISA. San Remo — Villa Pallavicini — Approach to Genoa — The Marquis di Negro — Genoa the Noisy — Communicating Doors — Spezia — Railway from Genoa to Spezia — Numerous Tunnels — The Bracco — The Naval Arsenal — Views from Porto Venere — Journey to Pisa — The CONTENTS. X Carrara Marble Quarries — A Troublesome Mosquito — Pisa — The Campo Santo — The Lung' Arno — Amus ing Incident — Rome — The Hotel Costanzi . . 25 CHAPTER HI.

ROME A Serviceable Umbrella — My Wife's First Impressions of Rome — Ancient and Modern Rome — Visit to the Villa Doria Pamphili — Crowded Streets — Gazers at Shop- Windows — Roman Fever — Fine Points of View — Officers of the Italian Army — Roman Nurses — St. Pietro in Montorio — Supply of Water — Fountains — Review of the Troops in Garrison — Our Courier on the Parade Ground — Italian Cuisine — Visit to the Chamber of Deputies 51 CHAPTER TV. ROME TO NAPLES Quick Trains to Naples — A Consultation — A Bright Idea — Our Accommodation at Ceprano — Doubtful Quarters — Value of Keating's Insect Powder — A Battle-Field in Miniature — Journey to Naples — Charming Landscape — First View of Vesuvius — Island of Capri 69

CHAPTER V. NAPLES TO POMPEII

Naples — Bespeaking Apartments — Hotel Nobile — Walk to the Villa Nazionale — The Port and Bay of Naples — Purity of the Atmosphere — East and West Bays — The CONTENTS. XI West End of Naples — Approach to Naples — Dolce far Niente — The Judas-Tree— The Corso VittorioEman uele — An Enchanting Picture — Drive to Pompeii — Our Equipage — The Plague of Beggars — Destruction of Pompeii 87

CHAPTER VI. ASCENT OF VESUVIUS

Drive to the Bay of Baiæ — Grotto of Posilipo — Drive along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele — Ascent of Vesuvius — Ascent of Vesuvius by Railway — How the Railway is Worked — Beautiful View — Perils of the Journey — My Pride has a Fall — Railway Sharks or Strap-Men — The Old Crater 109 CHAPTER VH. DESTRUCTION OF CASAMICCIOLA Present Aspect of the Mountain — There's Nothing in It- Tale of an Umbrella — Coral Hunting — Bargaining in Italian Shops— General Knowledge of English in Naples — The Harness of Cab Horses — Visits to the Museum — The San Carlo Theatre — Earthquake in the Island of Ischia — Ruins of Casamicciola — Collection of Relics— Rescue of a Girl— The Hotel Bellevue — Opinions respecting the Catastrophe . . 127 CHAPTER VHI. A WEEK IN SORRENTO. Railway to Castellamare— Best Route to Sorrento— The CONTENTS.

XII Tramontano Hotel — Temperature of Sorrento— The Si rocco and Sirochetto—- Piano di Sorrento — Orange and Lemon Orchards— A Week's Rest— A Favourite Walk —Formation of the Coast— Sail to Capri— The Blue Grotto — A Braying Song — A Violent Storm . 147

CHAPTER IX. SALERNO TO AMALFI.

Drive to La Cava — Charming Views — La Cava — Hotel di Londra — Drive from Vietri to Amalfi — An English Party — The Sick Lady — Manufacture of Maccaroni — Amalfi — There and Back — Vocal Powers of our Courier — Corpo di Cava — Blessing the Olive Branches — Ramble on the Hills — Cruel Treatment of Horses and Mules— The " Russie "— Frutta da Mare . . 165

CHAPTER X. EASTER IN ROME.

Journey to Rome — The Hotel Costanzi — Easter Ceremonies — Musical Celebration in St. Peter's — Colossal Cherubs — Exterior of St. Peter's — A Comparison — Departure from Rome — Florence — Hotel Italia — Journey to Florence — Travelling Now and Then — Lake Thrasymene — Florence a World of Art — The Cascine — Eccentric American — Church of the Annunziata — Drive in the Cascine — Excursion to Fiesole — The Attractions of Florence CONTENTS. XIII

CHAPTER XI. FLORENCE TO COMO.

A Flower-Girl of Florence — Florence to Bologna — Bologna to Milan — The Plains of Lombardy — First Sight of the Alps — The Duomo — Cathedral of Seville — The Corso — Galleria Vittorio Emanuele — Omnibus Management — Varese — Views of Lake and Mountain — The Madonna del Monte — The Fourteen Chapels — Beautifully Carved Figures — Ascent of the Tre Croci — Lake of Como 201

CHAPTER XII.

A SLEDGE JOURNEY ON THE ALPS. Route out of Italy — Drive to Chiavenna — Table d'Hote of Four — Ascent of the Alps — The Spliigen Route — Change of Scenery — On the Edge of the Snowfields — Incidents of a Sledge Journey — Desolate Scene — Italian Custom House — Summit of the Pass — Rapid Descent into a Swiss Valley — Village of Spliigen — Halt at Coire — Zurich — The Journey to Paris — Arrival at Folkestone 223 ILLUSTRATIONS. The Bay of Naples (Frontispiece). Vesuvius Railway (Vignette). Island of Cappj (to face page 83). Island of Ischia (to face page 141).

CHAPTER I. MARSEILLES TO NICE.

travelling with a courier — couriers' club or society — paris — journey to marseilles — view of mont blanc — arrival at lyons — lovely scenery — change of climate — beauties of the riviera — luncheon-baskets nice — public gardens — climate and temperature of nice — the chateau — burning of opera-house — monte carlo — " l'lnferno nel paradiso." B

CHAPTER I.

" Jam satis terris nivis atque diræ Grandinis misit Pater, et rubente Dextera sacras jaculatus arces Terruit Urbem." T\7E — that is, my wife and I — left home on ' ' the 28th of February, 1881, after three months of very severe winter, and, thinking it more than probable that we should have two or three months more of it, determined to make for the sunny south. We live some fourteen miles from London, and on our arrival at Charing Cross were joined by our courier, an Italian, of whom I shall have more to say later on. Our train was an ordinary one, leaving in the afternoon. We, having long ago bid adieu b2 to youth, and being what is politely termed elderly people, were only bound for Folkestone, not wishing to make a fatiguing journey of it by going through to Paris in the day. On our arrival we were comfortably housed at the Pavilion Hotel, where a cheerful fire in our bed-room awaited us, it being still frosty weather.

Our journey down was agreeably passed in the company of a young bride and bridegroom who got into the same compart ment with us at Cannon Street, and who were also on their way to the south, the bride being about to cross the Channel for the first time. Our steamer for Boulogne left the following morning about eleven o'clock, and, having gone on board early, we avoided the crowding and scrambling for the best places which invariably take place on the arrival of the " tidal train " from London. Fortunately for my wife, who is a bad sailor, we had a smooth passage, reaching our port in an hour and forty-Eve minutes. Here especially we experienced the comfort of having a courier who was on the alert to land quickly, and who carried most of our small " im- COURIERS. pedimenta," hand-bags, rugs, &c, at once secur ing us two seats in the train for Paris, so that, on landing at our leisure, we had nothing to do but to take possession after refreshment at the station buffet.

While mentioning couriers, I will here say that, till this journey, I had always, on our trips to the Continent, been my own courier, and managed pretty well, being a fairly prac tised hand, and speaking both French and Italian tolerably well — at any rate, enough for travelling purposes. At the same time, I must own that of late years I have found it too troublesome and fatiguing, and iu fact, during our last tour the previous winter, I declared to my wife that I had quite made up my mind that, unless we indulged in a courier for our next continental trip, I should prefer to stop at home. I believe I added that the trouble and botheration of the thing quite destroyed the pleasure of the journey, and that I simply would not undertake it again. To those who are in the habit of taking con tinental trips without a courier — and of course by far the greater number do so — I would say yes, if you can speak two or three foreign lan guages pretty well, and while you are young and strong, and have a tolerably even temper, and do not allow yourself to be annoyed by trifles, continue to do so, and you will enjoy your journey and be content ; but, from my recent experience, I am inclined to say that the comfort gained by taking a courier is very con siderable, and the additional expense actually trifling.

To the inexperienced in this matter let me say, be sure you engage a courier of the right sort, one who has been introduced to you by some one you know who has employed him, and can give him a good character ; for, unless you are fortunate enough to secure the services of such, you will undoubtedly be better without one. There is a Couriers' Club or Society — I am not sure of its title — at 12, Bury Street, St. James's, which consists of aband of about eighty, all under a responsible manager, aud who have to go through an examination for general efficiency before they can become members, and OUR COURIEE. 7 from this club our man came. A most obliging, clever fellow we found him, always ready and thoughtful for all things that made for our comfort ; aud, though he always travelled second-class — their invariable custom — yet on many occasions he travelled in our company during several long carriage drives, and also occasionally in our walks about cities and other excursions, and we always found him a pleasant companion, at the same time keeping his place as our servant and guide, which in fact he most assuredly was.

As 1 write these particulars for the informa tion of those who have not employed these men, I will add that their pay is £15 a month, you defraying travelling expenses ; with their keep you have nothing to do.* * The foregoing remarks upon couriers chiefly concern those travelling with ladies or elderly people. The young and healthy can of course do without their assistance ; though I have frequently seen young men in trouble through being entirely ignorant of any foreign tongue, and at the same time quite inexperienced in every matter con nected with continental travel. In speaking of our courier in this little jour nal, I shall call him B . To resume. Paris reached about seven o'clock, we at once passed out of the station with our hand-bags, &c, leaving B , to whom I gave our keys, to clear our luggage, and follow us later on to our hotel, which on this occasion was the " Chatham," where rooms had been engaged.

After an excellent little dinner and a short airing on the boulevards adjoining, and my customary post-prandial cigar, we retired for the night. Having secured a coupe fauteuil for our journey to Marseilles, we left Paris on the second day after our arrival, taking the day train that leaves at nine o'clock. This was a long jour ney of fifteen hours, but as we had the eouptt all to ourselves, and carried a luncheon-basket, so as to be independent of the buffets, we got through very comfortably. There are doubtless good refreshments to be had both at Tonnerre* and Lyons, where the train stops, but we pre ferred to remain in our carriage and take our luncheon and dinner, while our fellow-travellers VIEW OF MONT BLANC. were taking theirs at the stations. It is always more or less of a scramble this eating against time, and apt to disagree with you ; at any rate, we took our meal at leisure, and were content.

The day was fine but cold, and we had evi dent signs of severe winter still clinging to us as far south as Dijon, such as patches of snow ou the land and roofs of houses, and icicles hanging from rocks and bridges. On passing Macon in the afternoon, we had a grand though distant view of Mont Blanc, finely tinted by the rays of the setting sun. The country interven ing appears to be a dead level, and in clear weather at that time of day the mountain is seen to perfection. The train reached Lyons about five o'clock, where half an hour is allowed for dinner, and the greater part of the remain der of our journey was done in the dark, arriving at Marseilles at 11.40 p.m., true to time. My experience of foreign railways is that they allow plenty of time to do their journeys, and that they are punctual.

With us punctu ality seems the exception. Those who have never visited Lyons should, if not pressed for time, break the journey there, and, under any circumstances, Lyons has so many attractions that it seems surprising so few people appear inclined to stop there, but prefer to rush through to Marseilles, and even continue the night journey to Cannes or Nice. A new hotel has been recently opened close to the station, and, a bed-room having been re tained for us, we were able to get to rest soon after midnight. This is a great boon to travellers, as, instead of being obliged to wait for our luggage and drive a mile or so to an hotel in the town of Marseilles, we had only to cross the line with our small luggage and step at once into the hotel, a great comfort after fifteen hours passed in the train.

We found such a roasting fire in our room that we begged for an unoccupied chamber ad joining, as the temperature had become sensibly milder for several hours previously, and the room felt oppressively hot. This railway hotel is especially convenient for those about to re sume their journey on the morrow, saving so JOURNEY TO NICE. 11 much time and trouble, and the expense of omnibus or carriage to and fro. It must materially lessen the profits of the hotels in the town. We had explored the city and environs the previous year ; but those, of course, wishing to do so had better take up their quarters in the city. About half-past ten next morning, we took train to Nice, which was reached about 3.20 p.m. We knew this route well, and did the same journey last year, but its charms seem always fresh.

It is a lovely bit of country, with de lightfully varied scenery of mountains and richly-cultivated land, with constantly-re curring views of the bright blue sea, close to which the train at times runs, especially as you approach Cannes. The day was favourable, the air balmy, the flowers in the gardens, the blossoms on peach, almond, and cherry-trees, all so grateful to us who had just left winter behind. This indeed was real spring, even the spring of the poets. On reaching the environs of Cannes you come upon whole gardens of oranges, really fine trees, in full bearing, and, to those seeing such for the first time, the sensation is one of ex treme pleasure and also of wonder that in so short time you can be transported to such a glorious sight and such a change of climate. The aloe and the cactus also greet the eye in all directions, and many strange trees, all ever green, and flowering shrubs of various colours, at once force the fact upon you that you are in deed in a new world.

The olive now begins to increase considerably in size, and clothes the hills with verdure. In hue it is but a dull grey green, but it is ever green, aud furnishes the landscape, which otherwise would be mostly bare of foliage. These olive-clad hills in many parts of this lovely coast come down to the very water's edge, and nothing can exceed the beauty ofthe little bays and rocky inlets that help to break the monotony of the ordinary sea-shore. The soil and rocks, being of a fine red ochre tint, contrast splendidly with the rich green of the various shrubs, and these little rocky inlets, THE RIVIERA. 13 be it borne in mind, are washed by the clearest of sea-water, so transparent that, in the calm land-locked bays, you see the sand or rocks below as if you looked through a sheet of glass. The wonderful variety of form aud colour is indeed so strikingly beautiful that the eye of the artist must be surfeited with pleasure, and one would imagine that very few could be in sensible to the charm of such a scene.

I have attempted before now, in letters to friends at home, to depict the beauties of the " Riviera," but felt that I have always failed, and finished by saying that its loveliness is simply indescribable. But to recur to matters more closely con nected with personal comforts and the routine of daily life. In the midst of all that so charmed the eye, when I had called to my wife repeatedly just to look at that lovely little bit of colour, that enchanting combiuation of red rock and foliage, that glorious blue of the Mediterranean at our feet, a perfect sapphire, she suddenly recalled me from heaven to earth by exclaiming, " What have you done MY OLD PLAYGROUND REVISITED. with the luncheon-basket? I feel perfectly ravenous." Had she been five and twenty instead of (well, never mind) I suppose she would have said " awfully."

At any rate, I was awakened to the stern realities of life. The basket was found and to luncheon we went, and, having a carriage to ourselves, we spread our little table (a spare cushion from the carriage always did duty), and gave a good ac count of the fresh rolls aud butter, galantine, &c, &c, with which our basket was furnished, "washed down," as it is usually termed, "by copious draughts " of our own " particular " from a choice bin in the cellar at home. Apropos of luncheon baskets. It is open to question whether they are not more bother than they are worth, whether it is worth while to carry one on a tour of this kind. Except on the journey from Paris to Marseilles, and also on the run next day to Nice, we had very little use for it, and on our arrival in Rome, having dis patched a box with warm clothing, railway rugs, &c, to Paris, we took the opportunity at the same time of getting rid of our basket, and NICE, 15 found it a great relief to be without it.

A few light refreshments, such as sandwiches, oranges, &c, can always be carried iu a small handbag, and on many occasions afterwards we did this and found it enough ; and you can always pro cure wine, beer, or aereated waters at the buffets ou the "line," or bring your bottle of wine with you from the hotel where you last stayed if you prefer it. I have said we arrived in Nice soon after three in the afternoon of March the 4th, and found our room prepared for us at the " Grande Bretagne," an hotel we had not tried before, and with which we were well pleased. Having made a prolonged stay here the previous winter, we only rested in Nice for a few days, wishing to make the best of our way to Rome. The weather was charming, 64 deg. F. by my thermometer (which I always carry with me on these occasions) in our bed-room, with the windows open, aspect due south.

We were on the third floor, overlooking the public gardens, which stand between our hotel and the sea, aud very pleasant they are, well planted MY OLD PLAYGROUND REVISITED. with evergreens, many of which are large trees, such as the eucalyptus or blue gum-tree, the pepper-tree, and many others whose names I do not know, and which form an agreeable shade. The date-palm appears to flourish here also, aud bears fruit, which however never ripens ; but the tree is very picturesque, and, though removed from its African home, bears up well under the circumstances. Flowers of many kinds were already in bloom, and the gar den, for a foreign garden, is fairly well kept. The town band, and also that of some regi ment stationed in the town, take it in tnrns to play in this garden on most afternoons during the season for a couple of hours, while the visitors and inhabitants of Nice occupy chairs under the trees, or pull up their carriages on the " Promenade des Anglais," which runs between the gardens and the sea, to listen to the music.

So much has been written about the climate of Nice and the Riviera generally that I can add little that is new about it, but, having passed one entire winter here and part of two others, my experience would lead me to say that, as in CLIMATE OF NICE. 17 most parts of the world with which I am ac quainted (and I have passed two winters at the Cape), the winters vary considerably. If the winter is unusually severe in England and in the north of Europe generally, Nice gets her share, i.e., by going to Nice you do not avoid the winter altogether, but you have it in a modified form, very much modified indeed com pared with our severest weather, for the fact that geraniums flourish all the year round in the open air proves that much frost is extremely rare. I heard of a frost many winters ago, of 7 deg.

F. on three consecutive nights, which killed a great many orange-trees and all the lemons ; but this is spoken of as a most unusual event, and something to re member. When we have very mild winters at home, Nice escapes without a single frosty night throughout. One thing, you never have any fogs; the chai'acter of the air is one of ex treme dryness, and the amount of sunshine con trasts most favourably with our cloudy skies. The drawbacks to this are the occasional cold c winds, chilly at times even from the south east which is off the sea, and really cold when off the mountains, "Les Alpes Maritimes," which are more or less capped with snow. Of course the contrast is great when the sun shines brightly, and must make it especially dangerous for delicate people. The dust also after a long run of dry weather is very trying, and with all the watering (and they water very well), it is almost impossible to keep it entirely under.

The trees on the promenade were all powdered with it from the adjoining roads, it not having rained for several months. There are plenty of delightful walks and drives abont Nice, and those who are only in tending a short stay should make at once for a somewhat celebrated spot called the " Chateau," an isolated hill at the eastern end of the town, though the castle no longer exists. It com mands a magnificent view over the entire city and the beautiful environs for many miles. The young and strong will enjoy the ascent on foot, which may be made in a quarter of an BURNING OF THE OPERA-HOUSE. 19 hour from the base of the hill, but there is an excellent zigzag road by which you may reach the highest point in a carriage. The guide books, however, give all the information required. There is a useful little book called " Nice Express," to be had at all the bookstalls and railway stations for one franc, containing a plan ofthe town and environs.

The news of that terrible fire, the burning of the opera-house, reached us about a week after we left. It threw such a gloom over the town that the gay season came prematurely to an end, and the annual regatta, to begin the next day, never took place, the money collected for it being charitably devoted to the relief of the sufferers. As we made some days' stay at Monte Carlo last year, and only took a return ticket from Nice this time for a few hours' ramble in the beautiful gardens of the Casino, and a dinner at the table d'hote of the " Hotel de Paris," the sub ject does not properly belong to our tour of this year ; but I cannot altogether pass it by without adding our testimony to that of many o2 others to the charms of this lovely spot, which Nature and art combined have succeeded in rendering a perfect Paradise.

It is sad, bow ever, to find all this so marred by the foul blot upon its fair name caused by that institution known under the mild name of the Casino. It richly deserves the title of " hell," formerly given to all gaming houses, and this one may be most correctly described as " LTnferno nel Paradiso." Fortunately, owing to the great increase of late in hotel accommodation, it is quite possible to make a prolonged stay and enjoy all the natural beauties of the place, without having the most objectionable portion of its frequenters forced upon your notice. You may certainly at all times take your place in the grand concert hall, and listen to the music of the finest orchestra in Europe, for a couple of hours, without seeing or hear ing anything to offend, or anything, in fact, to remind you that you are not occupying a stall in a London or Paris opera-house.

At the same time an intimate friend of ours, who had THE DEVIL'S MUSIC. 21 once been induced to sit out a concert there, remarked that he did not enjoy it because he could not get over the feeling that he was listening to the Devil's music.

Chapter II. Genoa To Pisa

SAN REMO — VILLA PALLAVICINI — APPROACH TO GENOA — THE MARQUIS DI NEGRO— GENOA THE NOISY — COMMUNICATING DOORS — SPEZIA — RAILWAY FROM GENOA TO SPEZIA — NU- MEROUS TUNNELS— THE BRACCO — THE NAVAL ARSENAL — VIEWS FROM PORTO VENERE — JOURNEY TO PISA — THE CARRARA MARBLE QUARRIES — A TROUBLESOME MOSQUITO — PISA — THE CAMPO SANTO — THE LUNG'ARNO — AMUSING INCIDENT — ROME — THE HOTEL COSTANZI.

CHAPTER II.

(TU1E morning of the 8th saw us en route for ■*■ San Remo, where we passed one day, so as to divide our journey to Genoa,* and enable my wife to see something of the place, it being her first visit. It bears a good character as a resort for invalids, and is said to escape that unpleasant wind called the " Mistral." This * Many who know the Cornice Road will say, do the journey between Nice and Genoa by carriage. I have driven the whole distance both ways, and quite agree that it is a delightful drive ; but it is too long for many people, and I think wholly unnecessary. I advise a carriage jour ney only between San Remo and Nice, and, if convenient, do it in this direction. It is an easy day. You leave, say at ten in the morning, making Mentone the half-way house, where you rest for two hours, driving into Nice in com fortable time for dinner.

MY OLD PLAYGROUND REVISITED. wind blows at intervals all along the coast, and over a large tract of country some miles in land. It is a nor'wester, and blows at times with great violence, lasting for several days. From what point it takes its rise seems unde cided, but it is supposed to die out at or near San Remo. It is by no means a cold wind, but a most unwelcome visitor, raising clouds of dust and destroying everybody's comfort.* This place has greatly increased in impor tance of late years. Like many other towns of the Riviera, it is noted for its salubrity and mild ness of climate. It has hitherto been rather a dull place, but its attractions are many, and the perfect repose which seems to surround it is a * Some years ago, during one of these violent mistrals, I had a very narrow escape of my life.