The history and traditions of the land of the Lindsays in Angus and Mearns, with notices of Alyth and Meigle; ... to which is added an appendix, containing ... interesting documents

Front matter

THE HISTORY AND TRADITIONS OF THE LAND OF THE LINDSAYS IN ANGUS AND MEARNS. Edinburgh : Printed by Thomas and Archibald Constable, FOK DAVID DOUGLAS. LONDON HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. CAMBRIDGE MACMILLAN AND BO WES. GLASGOW JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS. E-OZELL GASTI E - Insid* Clje ana CraDtttong OF THE LAND OF THE LINDSAYS IN ANGUS AND MEARNS WITH NOTICES OF ALYTH AND MEIGLE BY THE LATE ANDREW JERVISE, F.S.A. Scot. DISTRICT EXAMINER OF REGISTERS; AUTHOR OF "MEMORIALS OF ANGUS AND MEARNS, "EPITAPHS AND INSCRIPTIONS," ETC. TO WHICH IS ADDKD AN

Appendix

CONTAINING EXTRACTS FROM AN OLD RENTAL-BOOK OF EDZELL AND LETHNOT, NOTICES OF THE RAVAGES OF THE MARQUIS OF MONTROSE IN FORFARSHIRE, AND OTHER INTERESTING DOCUMENTS. REWRITTEN AND CORRECTED BY JAMES GAMMACK, M.A. INCUMBENT, ST. JOHN BAPT. , DRUMLITHIE ; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTILiCARI SCOTLAND ; AND MEMBER OF THE CAMBRIAN ARCHÆOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION. tSccoith CEbition, tuitli illustrations. EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS W.o t\)t fHcmaxo of TBE LATE RIGHT HONOURABLE aicxantier Mtlliam Cratofori ILinisag, TWENTY-FIFTH EARL OF CRAWFORD, EIGHTH EARL OF BALCARRES, AND SECOND BARON WIGAN, AUTHOR OF THE "LIVES OF THE LINDSAYS" AND OTHER VALUABLE WORKS, Ehis Scrono tuition IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. EDITOR'S

Preface

TO THE SECOND EDITION. When asked by the trustees of my deceased friend Mr. Jervise to carry out his latest arrangements regarding a new edition of the Land of the Lindsays, I felt great diffidence in entering upon such a work, while at the same time I was unwilling, other engagements allowing it, to decline the confidence that he had shown by his request. Mr. Jervise was regarded as probably the foremost local antiquarian of his day, and the book itself had been received as an authority upon the district of which it treats. Fortunately Mr. Jer vise had himself made some jottings upon his private copy, and these, when closely examined in detail, indicated pretty clearly the plan upon which he would have prepared the second edition, had he been spared to see it through the press. The plan involved a thorough revision of paragraph, phrase, and word, as well as a careful verification of date and fact on every page.

By it I have been guided through out, conserving the form and spirit, but not hesitating to alter freely, where I thought the alteration would more clearly express his mind, or to correct what I did not doubt that he himself would have acknowledged to be erroneous ur out of taste. The later histories of the district have PKEFACE. been largely used for illustration and verification, but the authorities most relied upon have been charter evidence, where accessible, regarding the earlier periods, and family histories, where available, for both earlier and later. Where I have seen occasion to differ from the author, I have usually given my reason by a reference in the notes. I cannot be sufficiently grateful to the trustees for their ready help and generous confidence in the undertaking, to Messrs. J. Valentine and Sons, Dundee, for the use of their photo graphs in preparing the lithographed illustrations, or to the numerous gentlemen, clerical and lay, who have lent me every possible assistance.

To Mr. James Davidson, Solicitor, Kirrie muir, I am specially indebted for his most painstaking and judicious revision of the proof-sheets, and willing counsel in every difficulty. I would also beg to express my obligations to the Right Honourable the Earl of Southesk for his valuable aid in this new Edition, and specially for his Lordship's kindness in presenting the use of his notes upon the Family of the Carnegies. JAMES GAMMACK, M.A. The Parsonage, Drumlithie. November 1882.

PREFACE.

TO THE FIRST EDITION. It may be proper to remark that this volume is the first which the author has published— a fact that will perhaps account for its numerous defects in composition and arrangement. The writer has devoted much of his leisure to the study of the history and antiquities of his native district — has felt the greatest pleasure in doing so — and has occasionally published scraps on the subject in provincial newspapers. These notices (which were all very defective) related chiefly to churchyard matters, and to descriptions of remarkable antiquarian and historical peculiarities. In course of time, these not only gained provincial favour, and the good opinion of several gentlemen of literary note at a distance, but were proved to be so far useful, from the fact, that greater care has been shown for antiquarian relics since their publication, and a marked improvement has taken place in the mode of keeping many of the churchyards and tombstones in the district.1 The present volume owes its origin to the general interest that one of these papers created at the time ; and from the kind ness and courtesy of the Hon. Lord Lindsay, who was pleased to remark, in reference to the notice referred to, — " I wish your account of Glenesk had been published in time to have enabled me to avail myself of it in the ' Lives.' " No apology is necessary, it is presumed, for the title of this 1 From the favour with which these notices were received, the author was after wards induced to publish them under the title " Epitaphs and Descriptions from Burial-Grounds and Old Buildings in the North-East of Scotland, with Notes, Biographical, Genealogical, and Antiquarian."

Two volumes have been published, and the remainder of the MS. Notes and Memoranda have been handed over by his trustees to the custody of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Edinburgh ( Proceedings, iii. p. 237, new series). b

PREFACE.

. X volume. The lands, of which it is intended to preserve the History and Traditions, have been purposely selected, and were, at one time or other, under the sway of the powerful family of Lindsay-Crawford. Glenesk was the birthplace of the first Earl ; Finhaven and Edzell were the cherished abodes of the family so long as its power survived ; and its various members were proprietors of important portions of the Mearns from a remote period. Although these estates have long since passed to other hands, and the family is merely represented in its fatherland by a collateral branch, it is pleasing to know that the ancient title is still enjoyed by a lineal descendant of the original stock, whose son and heir-apparent is the impartial and elegant biographer of his illustrious progenitors. Though traditions of the Lindsays are not so plentiful in the district as they were of old, when the hills aud dales and running brooks were more or less associated with stories of their daring and valour, enough remains to show the almost unlimited sway which they maintained over the greater portion of Angus, and a large part of the Mearns.

Like the doings of other families of antiquity, those of the Lindsays are mixed with the fables of an illiterate age ; and, though few redeeming qualities of the race are preserved in tradition, popular story ascribes cruel and heartless actions to many of them. Still, extravagant as some of these stories are, they have not been omitted, any more than those relating to other persons and families who fall within the scope of this volume ; and, where such can be refuted, either by reference to documentary or other substantial authority, the opportunity has not been lost sight of. The way in which erroneous ideas have been reiterated regarding old families, and the transmission of their properties, etc., has led to much confusion, the evils of which are most apparent to those who attempt to frame a work of such a nature as the present.

From the author's desire to correct these errors, the book will, perhaps, have more claim to the title of a collection of facts regarding the history and antiquities

PREFACE.

. XI of the Land of the Lindsays than to a work of originality and merit, and may therefore be less popular in its style than most readers would desire ; but this, it is hoped, has been so far obviated by the introduction of snatches regarding popular superstitions, and a sprinkling of anecdote. Due advantage has been taken of the most authentic works that bear on the history of the district, for the use of the greater part of which, and for a vast deal of valuable information, the writer is particularly indebted to the kindness of Patrick Chalmers, Esq. of Aldbar.1 He is also under deep obligation to the Hon. Lord Lindsay,2 not only for many important particulars which he has been pleased to communicate regarding his family history, but for the great interest he has taken in otherwise advancing the work.

In notices of prehistoric remains the lover of antiquity may find the volume rather meagre. This, the writer is sorry to remark, has arisen, in a great measure, from the desire which most discoverers have of retaining or breaking any valuable relics with which they meet. Although a change for the better has recently taken place regarding antiquities, still the peasantry, into whose hands those treasures are most likely to fall, have a sadly mistaken view of their value ; and in the vain hope of being enriched by a personal possession, they deprive themselves of remuneration altogether. In destroying pieces of pottery-ware, metals, and similar articles, they tear so many leaves— so to speak — from the only remaining volume of the remote and unlettered past, thus placing — perhaps for ever — the attainment of some important particular regarding the history of our forefathers beyond the reach of inquiry.

The baneful law of treasure-trove has much to account for on this score ; but there is reason to believe that the evil might be so far modified through an express under- 1 P. Chalmers, Esq. of Aldbar, died at Rome, June 23, 1854, in his fifty-second year. - Afterwards Earl of Crawford and Balcarres. His Lordship succeeded in 1869, and died in 1880.

PREFACE.

. XII standing between landlords and tenants, and tenants and servants. The Appendix will be found to contain many interesting and hitherto unpublished papers, particularly those illustrative of the ravages of the Marquis of Montrose and his soldiers in certain parts of Angus. The old Rental-Book of Edzell and Lethnot, from which copious extracts have been taken, was lately rescued from total destruction in a farm " bothie " in Lethnot. Though a mere fragment, the portion preserved is important, not only from its showing' the value and nature of the holdings of the period, but from its handing down the names of many families who are still represented in the district. In thanking his numerous friends and subscribers for their kind support, the author feels that some apology is necessary for the delay which has occurred in the publication.

This has arisen from two causes — mainly from a protracted indisposi tion with which the writer was seized soon after advertising the volume; and partly from including in it the history of the minor Lindsay properties in Angus, and of those in Mearns, etc. — an object which was not originally contemplated. From the latter cause the volume has necessarily swelled far beyond the limits at first proposed ; still, the author does not feel him self justified in increasing the price to subscribers, but the few remaining copies of the impression will be sold to non-sub scribers at a slight advance. He begs also to express his deep obligation to those who took charge of subscription lists, and so disinterestedly and successfully exerted themselves in getting these filled up, as weU as to various Session-Clerks, and numerous correspondents, for their kindness in forwarding his inquiries. ANDREW JERVISE. Brechin, August 1853. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Edzell

— Section I. PAGE Origin of name — Old clergymen — Bell of St. Lawrence — Ancient use of bells — Old kirkyard — Drummore Hill— Castle of Poolbrigs — Old kirk — Episcopal riots — Bonnyman, parish teacher — Rei markable death of a parish minister, EDZELL.— Section II. Burial aisle — Lady Lindsay raised from a trance — Major Wood — Traditions of his death and burial — Rev. George Low of Birsay— Kirk and lands of Neudos — Story of St. Drostan's well — Chapelry and castle of Dalbog, II EDZELL.— Section III. Families of Adzell and Abbe — Knockquy Hill — De Glenesk family — De Strivelyn or Stirling — Marriage of Sir Alexander Lindsay with Catherine Stirling — Story of Jackie Stirlin' — Origin of the name and family of Lindsay — David, first Earl of Crawford — Sir Alexan der Lindsay of Kinneff — Sir Walter Lindsay of Edzell — Sir David, ninth Earl of Crawford — The "Wicked Master " — His son, 26 EDZELL.— Section IV.

Sir David Lindsay, Lord Edzell — His taste for architecture, etc. — His son's murder of Lord Spynie — "Offeris" for the same — Montrose in Glenesk — Cromwell's soldiers at Edzell — John Lindsay of CONTENTS. XIV PAGE 42 60 72 92 100 Canterland's succession to Edzell— His son and grandson- David, the last Lindsay of Edzell— The fate of his sisters, Margaret and Janet— Character and last days of "Edzell"— Story of a "treasure-seeker," . . . . . EDZELL.— Section V. Edzell Castle— Its situation— General description— Age of towers— Sculpturings— Visited by Queen Mary and King James— " The kitchen of Angus"— Baths discovered— Flower-garden— Dilapidations of Edzell, and of Auchmull, ....

Chapter II. Glenesk

— Section I. Glenesk — St. Drostan — Neudos — Old church of Lochlee— Origin of parish — Its ministers — Mr. Ross, as session-clerk — Episcopacy in the parish — Rev. David Rose, "the illegal meeting-house keeper" — Illiberality of parish ministers — Change of views — Chapel built on the Rowan— Rev. Peter Jolly — New church at Tarfside — Free Church at the Birks of Ardoch — Memorial windows — Description of old parish church — Ross, the author of Helenore — His abode, biography, and poetry — Present church and manse — Drowning of the brothers Whyte — Benevolence of Rev. David Inglis — Lines on a stranger, GLENESK. -Section II. Invermark Castle— Later occupants — Dilapidation — Iron yett — Age of castle — To check the Cateran — Unsettled state of the glen — A refuge for the Bruce — Cairns on the Rowan — Mines of Glenesk, GLENESK.— Section III.

Traditions of Glenmark — "Bonnymune's Cave" — Petrifying cave Rocking-stones — Druidical remains — Colmeallie — The Circular in ecclesiastical architecture — Cairn at Fernybank explored Archæological remains — Querns at Edzell, , , CONTENTS. XV PAGE 109 125 13S 130 161 GLENESK. -Section IV. View of Glenesk — Want of wood— Shooting lodge at Invermark — Depopulation — Migration down the glen — North Esk and its tributaries — Romantic sites — Droustie — Bridges — -Visited by Royalty — The Queen's well — Sudden floods on the hill streams — Tarfside — Maule's cairn — Birks of Ardoch — The Modlach — St. Andrew's Tower— Death of Miss Douglas — Anecdote of Lord Panmure — The new road — The Burn : its situation, history, and improvements — Gannochy Bridge, ....

Chapter III. Navar And Lethnot

— Section I. Navar and Lethnot — Lethnot a prebend of Brechin Cathedral — Ministers — St. Mary's Well — Episcopacy in Navar — Rev. John Row, parish minister — Monumental inscriptions — " Dubrach " — His great age — "His Majesty's oldest enemy" — "Lady Anne" — Navar belfry and bell — Jonathan Duncan, Governor of Bombay, NAVAR AND LETHNOT.— Section II. Navar and the lordship of Brechin — David, Earl of Huntingdon — Maison Dieu of Brechin — Family de Brechin — Family of Maule — Erskines of Dun — Pedigree of the Maules — Panmure ennobled — Purchase of Edzell — Lord Panmure — Fox Maule — The late Earl, ........ NAVAR AND LETHNOT.— Section HI. Aspect of Navar — The Wirran — Story of the melder-sifter — Archæology of Lethnot — Dunnyferne — ' ' Lady Eagil's chair " — Cobb's Heugh — Streams of the district — Superstition anent the white adder — Superstitions of Lethnot — The Cateran,

Chapter IV. Finhaven And Oathlaw

— Section I. Finhaven — Etymologies — Church and prebend of Brechin Cathedral — "The nine maidens" — Old church of Finhaven — The "kirk of Aikenhatt" — Ministers of Finhaven — Oathlaw took the place of Finhaven — Burial aisle — Later ministers — Female rioters do penance — Rev. Harry Stuart, ..... CONTENTS. PAGE 169 18b' 203 213 FINHAVEN AND OATHLAW.— Section II. Forest of Plater — Ancient Scotch forests — Keeper of the forest — Ancient foresters of Plater — Succession in Finhaven — Accession of the Lindsays — Earl Crawford's lodging in Dundee — The "Houff " — Earls Crawford and Douglas watched by Bishop Kennedy — The battle of Arbroath — Origin of the house of Clova — Earl David dies — Arbroath burned — Douglas's conspiracy, and death at Stirling — Crawford's activity for revenge — Battle of Brechin — Calder and Earl Beardie's cup — Assuanley memorial cup — Site and remains of the battle — Crawford's violence, repentance, and royal pardon, .....

FINHAVEN AND OATHLAW.— Section III. Earl David and his rewards for loyalty — Raised to the Dukedom of Montrose — His princely splendour — Suffered for James in. — Power curtailed — New ducal patent granted — In favour with James iv. — Private sorrows — Fell at Flodden — The Wicked Master disinherited — Sir David Lindsay of Edzell, as ninth Earl of Crawford — Tenth Earl marriesCardinal Beaton's daughter — "The Prodigal Earl " — Murder of Lord Glamis — Education of an Earl and fidelity of the ' ' pedagogue " — ' ' Comes incarceratus " — Earldom passes to the Lindsays of Byres — Returns to the Crawford Lindsays — Earl Ludovick's military genius and acts — True to the royal cause — Dies in France — Owners of the lands and barony of Finhaven — In the hands of the Carnegies — Song, "He winna be guidit by me " — Death of Earl of Strathmore at Forfar by misadventure — Trial and acquittal of Carnegie — Greenhill- Gardyne of Finavon — Lairds of Craigo, .

FINHAVEN AND OATHLAW.— Section IV. Finhaven Castle — Story of its fall — Its situation — The harper hung — "Jock Barefoot" — Inner life of old Finhaven — Surrounded by retainers and allies — Markhouse — Blairiefeddan — Woodwrae — Balgavies and Sir Walter Lindsay — Estate lost, and how previously acquired, ....... FINHAVEN AND OATHLAW.— Section V. Vitrifications on Finhaven Hill— Site described — Theories of the Vitrification—Camp at Battle-dykes — Local names — Archæological remains, ,....,,, CONTENTS. XVII PAGE 220 226 236 249 258

Chapter V

FERN— Section I. Etymology and old condition of Fern — Early ministers — The post- Reformation clergy — Parish registers — The Tytlers, father and sons — Kirks, past and present — Kirkyard and its monuments, . FERN— Section II. The de Montealtos of Fern and Both — Their other possessions — Fern passed to the Crawford Lindsays — Estate of Deuchar — Deuchar at the battles of Barry and Harlaw — Family and influence traced — Its decline — Fern under the Carnegies — Windsor — Waterstone — Commonty of Little Brechin — Balmadity, FERN— Section III. Vayne — Fern divided — Noranside — Greenhills of Fern— Carnegies of Balinhard — Their pedigree and history — Of Kinnaird — Earls of Southesk — Their loyalty — Kinnaird Castle — The present Earl, . FERN.— Section IV. Castle of Vayne — Ascribed to Cardinal Beaton — A word for the Cardinal — View of the castle — Superstitions — Kelpie's footmark and the "De'il's Hows" — The Brownie — Brandyden — " The Ghaist o' Feme-den " — The ghost laid, . . . . .

FERN.— Section V. Battle of Saughs— Date uncertain— "The Hawkit Stirk"— Bravery of Mackintosh — Spoil recovered— Ledenhendrie in danger, and his precautions — Winter's monument — Archæology of Fern— Primitive dwellings, .......

Chapter VI. Careston

— Section I. Careston — Origin of name — Keraldus judex — Erection of parish — "Fyne little church" — Succession of ministers — Churchyard — Rev. John Gillies — Formation of kirk-session — Rev. Dr. John CONTENTS. PAGK 268 279 290 299 306 Gillies of Glasgow — Mr. Robert Gillies of Brechin — Mr. John Gillies, Historiographer-Royal of Scotland — Lord Gillies — Dr. Thomas Gillies, ....... CARESTON.— Section II. Office of Dempster — Dempsters of Careston — Of Muiresk — Lindsays of Careston — Of Balnabreich — The Carnegies of Careston — The Stewarts— " The Douglas Cause"— The Earl of Home, Baron Douglas — The Skenes of Careston — Origin of family — Major George Skene — Captain Skene, " the warlock laird " — Mr. John Adamson — Mitchells of Nether Careston, . CARESTON— Section III. The "Castle of Fuirdstone" — Careston Castle described — Ochterlony's account — Its decorations — Thorough repair — Traditions of Careston — Retreat of Montrose from Dundee to Careston — Later acts of Montrose — His execution, .....

Chapter VII. Menmuir

— Section I. Menmuir — Dedicated to St. Aidan — Its ministers— The Covenant subscribed — Danger from the Cateran — Frightened by the Royalists — Opposed the Prince — The church and its surroundings — Burial-place of the Carnegies of Balnamoon — Notice of Adjutant- General Sir David Leighton, K.C.B. — The Guthries of Menmuir and Brechin — Tigerton, ...... MENMUIR— Section II. Lands of Menmuir — Royal residence — Kilgery — Exploit of Peter de Spalding — Hermitage of Kilgery chapel — Balzeordie — The Somyrs of Balzeordie— Slaughter of Graham of Leuchland — Connection of the Carnegies in Menmuir — Menmuir thanage — Belonged to different families— The Collaces became reduced : yet known to literature — Leech a connection — Carnegies of Balnamoon related to the Arbuthnotts — Purchased Balzeordie and Balrownie— "The rebel laird," not such a sot or Goth, .

CONTENTS. XIX PAGE 318 331 MENMUIR— Section III. Balhall and the family of Glen— Balhall passed to the Lindsays — Patronage of Menmuir passed to Balhall — " The Parson of Menmuir"— Succession in Balhall — TheCramonds — The Lyells — The Erskines of Dun — Moss of Balhall— Death of Lyon of Glamis — Expiation of perjury — Cairns— Murder of the shoemaker of Tigerton — Archæological remains — Stracathro — The Caterthuns described — Origin veiled in mystery, and a field for superstition — Witchcraft— Fairy child, . . . . .

Chapter VIII

ffftisallrtneous of the pnbsittiB. Section I. IN NORTH-WESTERN PARTS OF FORFARSHIRE AND IN EAST OF PERTHSHIRE. Miscellaneous properties — Brechin — Forket acre — Brechin and Pitairlie — Keithock passed to the Edgars — Secretary Edgar — Bishop Edgar — Keithock's toast — Little Pert — Glenqueich held by the Lindsays — Preceded by the Stuarts, Earls of Buchan — Shielhill and chapel of St. Colm — The water-kelpie — Inverquharity and early proprietors — Ogilvys of Airlie and Inverquharity — Baronets of Inverquharity — Balinscho or Benshie — Scrymgeours and Ogilvys — Lindsays of Balinscho — Two chestnut-trees — The Fletchers — Chapel of St. Ninian and burial-place — Clova — Feuds — The old Peel — Parochial district and chapel — Glaslet, Rottall, Easter and Wester Lethnot, Gella, Braeminzeon — Bakie Castle — Passed to the Lyons — Chapel of Bakie — Kirk of Airlie — Dunkeny — Ruthven, Queich, Alyth — Corb, Inverqueich — Murder of Lord Lindsay — Haunted Lady — Meigle — Its early proprietorship — Its later — Church and burial-place, Section II.

IN SOUTHERN PARTS OF FORFARSHIRE. Kinblethmont — First Lord Spynie, his marriage and death — Second Lord Spynie — Represented by Lindsay-Carnegie of Boysack — Early proprietors of Kinblethmont — Inverkeillor — Guthrie pro- CONTENTS. XX PAGE 364 392 prietary and ecclesiastical history — Line of the Guthries — Bishop Guthrie — Forfarshire Guthries — Guthrie Castle — Carbuddo — In verarity — Its lords — Fotheringhams of Powrie — Meathie Lour — Kinnettles — Evelick — Arbroath connection — Kinnell — Panbride — Boethius family — Panmure House — Monikie, Downie, Dun find — Pitairlie — Cross of Camus — Ethiebeaton, Broughty Castle — Brichty, ........ Section III. IN KINCARDINESHIRE. Fasky or Fasque — Phesdo — Kinneff and its old castles — Barras — Caterline church and churchyard — Dunnottar, its church and castle" — Present church and traditions — Fetteresso — Uras-— Lumgair — Benholm — Blackiemuir, Balmakewan, Morphie — Canterland, .

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