United States exploring expeditions. Voyage of the U.S. exploring squadron, commanded by Captain C. Wilkes ... in 1838-42, together with explorations and discoveries made by Admiral D'Urville, Captain Ross, and other Navigators and Travellers; and an account of the expedition to the Dead Sea,...

Front matter

UNITED STATES EXPLORING EPEDITIONS. VOYAGE OF TIIE U. S. EXPLORING SQUADEON, COMMANDED EY CAPTAIN CHARLES WILKES, OF TITE UNITED STATES NAVY, IN 1833, 1839, 1840, 1841, AND 1842: TOGETHER WITH EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES MADE BY ADMIRAL D'URVILLE, CAPTAIN ROSS, AND OTHER NAVIGATORS AND TRAVELLERS; AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION TO THE DEAD SEA, UNDER LIEUTENANT LYNCH. BY JOHN S. JENKINS, AUTHOR 07 "THE LIFE OF SILAS WRIGHT," "POLITICAL HISTORY OF NEW Y0R5,1* "HISTORY OF THE WAR WITH ME'ClCO," ETC, ETC. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. AUBURN: JAMES M. ALDEN. 185Q Entered, according to AcC of Congress, in the year lt50, DY JAMES M. AL DEN, Ib the Clerk's Cface of the District Coiirt for the Northern District of New York. STEREOTYPED DY T. B. SMITH 2IG WILLIAM STREET. TO ISAAC FRYER, ESQ., OP NEW YORK CITY. tyis Wuk u j&.siintftillij S.iiirntBii, BY HIS OBLIGED RELATIVE AND FRIEND, THE AUTHOR

Preface

. It has been my main object, in the preparation of this work, to present, in an attractive and condensed forrt., an account of the various Expeditions mentioned in its pages, with such other information touching the places and localities described, as might be of interest to the general reader ; and if the public approve of the design, additions will hereafter be made to it, treating of similar enterprises undertaken by the American government. So far, however, from being an abridgment of the published narratives of Messrs. Wilkes and Lynch, this volume will be found to contain a very large proportion of facts not embraced in either of them. These have been obtained from divers sources. While engaged in preparing the work, I have consulted the Voyages of D'Urville, Ross, Beechey, King and Fitzroy ; Ellis' Polynesian Researches ; Crawfurd's Indian Archipelago ; Darwin's Journal of Researches ; Williams' Missionary Enterprises ; Kidder's Sketches of Residence and Travels in Brazil ; Bingham's Sandwich Islands ; Mrs. Meredith's Sketches of New South Wales ; Earl's Enterprise in Tropical Australia ; Greenhow's History of Oregon and California ; the travels of Hall, Mier, Moeren hout, Clarke, Elliott, Stephens, Robinson, and Fisk ; and a VI

PREFACE.

. number of other books of voyages and travels, some or all of which are referred to in the notes. It would be unjust, too, not to acknowledge, in this connection, my indebtedness to the official narratives of Commanders Wilkes and Lynch. I have, as a matter of course, been essentially benefited by them, though I have found that of the former encumbered with frequent errors. Something may, indeed, be conceded to haste in preparing a work for the press; but it is hardly excusable that any writer should be so far wrong in his geography as to confound San Salvador with Rio Janeiro, or so much at fault as to mistake a Peruvian montana for a forest. It would have been easy for me to have swelled the size of the Second Part of the book, by inserting the stereotyped gleanings of almost every modern traveller who has visited the Holy Land, which have, from continued repetition, become familiar to every reader ; but I could not find any justification for taking that course.

The important results, and the actual information, obtained by the Dead Sea Expedition, may be reduced within a very narrow compass; and the account of it seemed to me appropriately to terminate with the breaking up of the Encampment on the shores of the lake. Anachronisms of frequent occurrence may be found in these pages ; but as my desire has been to impart information, they have appeared to me to be justifiable. The Expe ditions of Wilkes and Lynch have been, as it were, the threads upon which I have strung the facts procured from different sources, many of which are not accessible to the majority of readers, or, if accessible, few have the leisure to examine them. Many of these facts relate to periods long subsequent to the date of the Expeditions with which they

PREFACE.

. are connected, but no one can be misled by this arrangement ; and if the reader is as much profited by the perusal of this work, as I have been by the examinations necessary to its preparation, he will not, I am confident, be inclined to doubt that I have rendered him an acceptable service. CONTENTS.

Part I. Chapter

I. Early Maritime Discoveries, 25. Indebtedness of America, 26. Act of Congress authorizing Expedition to the South Seas, 26. Organization of the Expedition, 26, 27. Departure from Norfolk, 27. Instructions of the Secretary of the Navy, 28, 29. Orders of the Commander of the Expedition, 29, 30. The Gulf Stream and Currents, 30. Western Islands, 31. Approach to Madeira, 31. Beautiful Scenery, 32. Arrival at Funchal, 32. Appearance of the Town, 33. Other Towns on the Island, 33. The Interior ; Rich Vegetation, 34. Mode of Travelling, 34. Population and Products, 35. Manufacture of Wine, 35, 36. Sailing of the Squadron, 36. The Cape de Verdes, 37. Productions and Exports, 37, 38. Houses, 38. Style of Dress, 39. St. Jago and Porto Praya, 39, 40. Route to Rio Janeiro, 40.

Chapter II

Appearance of the City of Rio Janeiro from the Sea, 41. Imperial Palace, Chapel, and other Public Buildings, 42. Celebration of the Emperor's Birth-day, 42, 43. Churches in Rio, 43. Dwelling-houses and Streets, 44. Fountains, 45. Population of the City, 45. Condition of the Society, 45, 46. Fondness for Ornaments and Display, 46. Funerals, 46, 47. Amusements, 47. Slaves and Slavery, 47, 48. Beauty of the Suburbs and Environs, 48, 49. Discovery of Brazil, 49. History and Form of Government, 49, 50. Greatness of the Brazilian Empire, 50. Magnificent Flora, 50, 51. Rich Cabinet and Dye Woods, 51. Cacao, Mango, and Agave, 51. Other Plants and Shrubs, 51. Indigo Plant, and Manufacture of Indigo, 51, 52. Coffee Shrub ; Mode of Preparing the Berry for Market, 52. Other Products, 52. Markets in Brazilian Towns, 53.

Parasites and Creepers in the Forests, 53. 1* X CONTENTS. Birds and Animals, 53. Wild Horses and Cattle of the Pampas, 53, 54. Gold Mines, 54. Diamond Washings, 55. Other Mineral Products, 56. Commerce of Brazil, 56. Caoutchouc, 56. Most Important Pro ducts of the Southern Provinces, 56, 57. Importance of the Brazilian Trade to the United States, 57. Departure of the Expedition, 57.

Chapter III

Pamperos off the Coast of La Plata, 58. The Rio Negro; Barrenness of the Adjacent Country, 58. Pampas of the Interior, 58, 59. • The G_5- chos ; their Costume and Appearance, 59. Settlement at El Carmen, 59, 60. Early History of Buenos Ayres, 60. Its Population and Capital, 60, 61. Other Important Towns, 61. Climate, 61. Vegetable Products, 6t Hor.es, Mules, and Cattle, 61. Mines, 61. Lagunas de Salinas, 61, 62. Matte, 62. Zoology, 62. Native Population, 62. Weapons of the Indian Tribes, 62, 63. Alarm at El Carmen, 63. Approach to the Southern Extremity of the Continent, 63. Dreary Appearance of Tierra del Fuego, 63, 64. Straits of Magellan, 64. Straits of Le Maire, 64. Doubling Cape Horn, 64, 65. Geographical Position of the Cape, 65. Arrival of the Squadron at Orange Harbor, 66.

Chapter IV

Voyage of the Relief, 67. Discovery of Patagonia, 67. Geographical Description, 68. Mineral Formations, 68. Patagonian Indians, 68, 69. Dress, Appearance, and Mode of Life, 69. Use of the Bulas, 69, 70. Interviews with the Natives, 70, 71. Orange Harbor, 71. Visits from the Fuegians, 71, 72. Description of Tierra del Fuego, 72. Principal Trees, 72. Winter's Bark, 72. Geology, 72, 73. Mountain Scenery, 73. Animals and Birds, 73. The Fuegians, Physiognomy, Dress, and Mode of Life, 73, 74. Wigwams and Canoes. 74. Superstitions, 74, 75. Arms and Weapons, 75. Southern Cruise, 75, 76. Icebergs, 76. Vain Attempt to Penetrate beyond former Navigators, 76. Beautiful Luciform Appearances, 76, 77. Return to Orange Harbor, 77. The Pacific Ocean, 77. Arrival at Valparaiso, 77. Loss of the Sea Gull, 78.

Chapter V

Splendid View of the Andes on approaching the Chilian Coast, 79, 80. Country around Valparaiso, 80. View of the Town, 80, 81. TheHar- CONTENTS. XI bor, 81. Fortifications, 81, 82. Facilities for Landing, 82. Choloes, 82. Custom-house and Exchange, 82, 83. Other Public Buildings, 83. Chingano and Samacucca, 83. City Prisons, 83. Taverns, 83, 84. Efficiency of the Police, 84. Population of the City, 84. Mercantile Character, 84, 85. Old Spanish Residents, 85. State of Morals, 85. Cemeteries, 86. Historical Notices of Chili, 86. Revolution, and Es tablishment of Independence, 86, 87. Changes in the Government, 87, 88. Administration of Prieto, 88. Diego Portales, 88. Beneficent Legislation, 88. Improvement in the Finances, 88. Form of Govern- «ili, 89. General Prosperity of the Country, 89. Boundaries ublic, 89, 90.

Peonage, 90. Management of the Large Es- War with Peru, 90, 91. Defeat and Banishment of Santa 2. Santiago, 92. Imposing Appearance, 92, Public Prom enades, 93. Cleanliness and Salubrity of the City, 93. Public Edifices, 93, 94. The Palace, 94. Cathedral and Parish Churches, 94. Thc Mint, 94. College and Public Library, 94, 95. Private Dwellings, 95. Markets, 95. Fine Horses, 95, 96. Amusements and Recreations, 96. Attachment to Religious Forms, 96. The Oraci&n, 96. Fashions, 96, 97. Population of Santiago, 97. Coquimbo, 97. Huasco, 97. Con ception, 97. Valdivia, 97, 98. Dress of the Chileiios, 98. Traits of Character, 98. Dwelling-houses, 99. Indian Population, 99. The Cordilleras, and Intermediate Valleys, 99, 100. Climate of Chili, 100. Rivers, 100. Geology, 100. Fertility of the Soil, 100, 101.

Chilian Forests, 101. Productions, 101, 102. Agriculture, and Implements of Husbandry, 102. Cattle-breeding, 102. Wild Animals, 102. Birds, 103. Commerce, 103, 104. Internal Trade, 104. Mode of Travelling and Carrying Burdens, 104, 105. Manufactures, 105. Mineral Wealth, 105, 106. Copper Mines in Coquimbo and Jajuel, 109. Mining Sys tem, 106, 107. Departure from Valparaiso, 107.

Chapter VI

Island of San Lorenzo, 108. Harbor and Town of Callao, 109, 110. Road to the Capital, 111. Lima, 112. Situation of the City, 112. Its Streets, 113. Beauty of its Public Edifices, 113. The Plaza Mayor and Fountain, 113, 114. Government Palace, Cabildo, and Cathedral, 114. Churches and Convents, 115. Monastic Establishments, Hospitals, and Asylums, 116. Palace of the Inquisition, 116. University, 117. Mint, National Library, and Theatre, 117. City Wall, 117. Spanish Colonization, 118. Fortifications, 119. Private Houses, 119, 120. Panteon, 120. Population of Lima, 121. Other Principal Towns in Peru, 121. Cuzco, 122. Arequipa, 122. Cerro di Pasco, 123. Guamanga, 123. Huacho, 123. Huancavelica, 124. Truxillo, 124. Early CONTENTS. XII History of Peru, 124. War of Independence, 125. Dictatorship of Bolivar, 125.

Revolt ofthe Peruvian Patriots, 125. Civil Dissensions, 126. Protectorate of Santa Cruz, 126. Present Administration, 127. Population of Peru, 127. The White Creoles, 127. Peruvian Ladies, 128. Mixed Races, 129. Influence of Catholicism, 130. Style of Dress, 131. Saya y Manto, 131. Popular Amusements, 132. Aman caes Fete, 132. Intoxicating Drinks and Stimulants, 133. Houses of the Peruvians in the Interior, 133. Beasts of Burden, 133. Mode of Travelling, 133. Topography of Peru, 133, 134. Character of the Soil, 134. Harbors, 134. Rivers and Lakes, 135. Climate, 135. Dis ease-:. 136. Earthquakes, 136. Mineral Wealth, 136. Si^^kl^^ at Cerro di Paseo, 137. Mode of Working, 137. Other M.i.; triets, 138. Agriculture. 138. Implements of Husbandry, ducts of the Coast, 139. Cotton, Maize, and Sugar Cane, 140.

The High Lying Districts, 141. Aracacha, Yucca, and other Productions, 141. The Olive Tree, 142. Castor Oil Plant, 142. Plants of the Sierra, 142. Quinua and Ulliieo, 142. Lucera, 143. Fruits, 143, 144. The Chirimoya, 144. Peruvian Bark, 145. Balsam of Peru, 146. Tonga, 146. Ratanhia, 146. Flora of Peru, 146. Commerce, 147. Exports and Imports, 147. Roads, 147, 148. Manufactures, 148. Birds, 149. The Condor, 149. Wild Animals, 150. The Llama, 150. Alpaca and Guanaco, 151. The Vicuna, 152. Domestic Quadrupeds, 153. Fine Horses and Mules, 153. Sailing ofthe Squadron, 154.

Chapter VII

The Paumotu Group, 155. Clermont de Tonnerre, 156. Unfriendliness of the Natives, 156. Mode of Surveying the Islands, 156. Other Islands ofthe Group, 157. Movements ofthe Squadron, 158. Borinoon Aratica Island, 158. The Lagoons, 159. Geology, 159. Different Theories, 160. Botany, 161. Birds and Animals, 162. Population, 162. Physical Character ofthe Inhabitants, 163. Dress and Customs, 163, 164. Mode of Constructing Habitations, 164. Canoes, 165.

Chapter VIII

View of Tahiti from the Sea, 166. Society Islands, 167. Discovery and Description of the Group, 167, 168. Rivers, 168. Harbors, 169. Papieti and Matavai, 170. Talodf 171. Establishment of Missions, 171. Adoption of a Form of Government, 171. Features of the Constitution, CONTENTS. XIII 171, 172. Queen Pomare, 172. The King Consort, 172. Caricature of Royalty, 173. Tahitian Politics, 173. Police Regulations, 174. Character of the Natives, 174. Former State of Degradation, 174. Change Produced by the Missionaries, 175. Influence of the Climate on the Feelings and Disposition, 175, 176. Personal Traits and Char acteristics, 176. Appearance, Customs, and Language, 177. Style of Dress, 178, 179. Love of Flowers, 179. Productions, 180. Otaheitan Cane, 181. Rich Fruits, 181. Wild Banana, 182. Guava and Cocoa, 182.

Mode of Climbing the Cocoa-nut Tree, 182. The Bread-Fruit, 183. Mahi, 184. Diet, and Mode of Living, 184. Zoology, 184, 185. The Queen's Palace, 185. Native Dwellings, 185, 186. Furniture, 186.-V Commercial Resources, 186. Vessels and Canoes, 187. Inter naljiTraffic, 187. Manufactured Products, 188. Mode of Extracting the Oil of the Cocoa-nut, 188. Arrow Root, 188. Beating Tapa, 188, 189. General Influence of the Missionaries, 189. Errors Committed. 189, 190.

Chapter IX

Arrival of the Squadron at Tahiti, 191. Friendly Reception, 191. Voyage to the Samoan Group, 192. Geographical Description, 192. Manua, 192. Tutuila, 193. Upolu, 193. Beautiful Scenery, 194. Manono and Apolima, 194. Savaii, 195. Streams and Lakes, 195. Formation of the Islands, 195, 196. Climate, 196. Harbor of Pago- Pago, 196. Apia, 197. Other Ports, 197. Population of the Group. 198. Personal Appearance of the Natives, 198. Treatment of Women. 198, 199. Chastity, 199. Traits and Characteristics, 199, 200. Habit of Bathing, 200. The "Devil's Men," 201. Heathen Women, 201. People of Savaii, 201. Fondness for Traffic, 201. Diseases, 202. Language, 202. The Maro, 202. Titi, and other Articles of Dress. 203. Ornaments, 203. Tattooing, 203, 204. Mode of Wearing the Hair, 204. Occupations and Amusements, 204.

Lascivious Dances. 204, 205. Musical Instruments, 205. Games, 205. Marriages, 206. Births and Burials, 206. Manner of Cooking Food, 206. Disgusting Mode of Preparing Ava, 206, 207. Government, 207. State of Society, 207. Crimes and Punishments, 207, 208. Heathen Deities, 208. Successful Labors of the Missionaries, 208, 209. Manner of Erecting Houses, 209, 210. Arrangements in the Interior, 210. Culinary Utensils, 210. Native Lamp, 210. Commerce, 211. Articles adapted for Exportation, 211. Mechanical Skill, 211. Tapa and Mulberry Cloth, 211,212. Canoes,212. Animal Kingdom, 212, 213. Mode of Taking Fish, 213. Cultivated Trees and Plants, 213. Ti-root Sugar, 213, 214. Yam and Taro, 214. Beauty of the Forests, 214. Tamanu and Amai, CONTENTS. XIV 214. Tou, Toi, and Toa, 215. Manufacture of Pitch from the Bread- Fruit, 215. Candle Nut Tree, 215, 216. Surveys of the Squadron, 216. Native Fono, 216. Departure from the Samoan Group, and Ar rival at Sydney, 217.

Chapter X

New Holland, or Australia, 218. Position of the Continent, 218. First Discovery, 219. Subsequent Explorations, 219, 220. Geographical Features, 220. Mountain Ranges, 221, 222. Interior of the Country, 222, 223. Geological Formation, 223. The Uplands, 224. Theory of Formation, 225. Harbors, 225. Port Jackson, 226. Rivers, 226. The Hawkesbury, 227. The Murray and its Tributaries, 22S, 229. Lakes, 229. Character of the Country in respect of Fertility, 230. Soil, 230. Geology and Mineral Substances, 230, 231. Climate, 231, 232. Tropical Australia, 232. Wet and Dry Seasons, 233. Atmospheric Phenomena, 233. Diseases, 234. Peculiarities in the Vegetable Kingdom, 234, 235. General Arrangement of Plants, 235, 236. Cerealia, Native Grasses, and Fruits, 236. Other Productions, 237. Cotton, Coffee, and other Tropical Plants, 238.

Forest Scenery, 238, 239. Timber Trees, 239. Eucalypti, 239, 240. Medicinal Trees, 240. Impressions on the Mind of a Stranger, 240, 241. State of Agriculture and Horticulture, 241. Animal Existence, 241, 242. Birds, 242, 243. Cassowary, 242. Black Swan, 243. Mammalia, 243. Marsupialia, 243, 244. Kangaroo, 244. Other Genera, 244, 245. Ornithorhynchus, 245, 246. Rodentia, 246. Domestic Animals, 246, 247. Reptiles and Fish, 247. Insects, 248. Personal Appearance of the Aborigines, 248, 249. Character, 249, 250. Native Huts and Weapons, 250. Boomereng, 251. Canoes, 251. Mode of Living, 251. Ideas of Government, 252. Customs, 252. " Making Young Men," 252, 253. Amusements, 253. Burying the Dead, 253. Superstitions, 253, 254, 255. Poetic Idea in Regard to Sleep, 255. First Colonization of Australia, 255.

Embarrassments and Changes in the Government, 256. Cost of Establishing Colony of New South Wales, 257. Encouragement of Immigration, 257, 258. Speculation in Wild Lands, 258. Subordinate Penal Colonies, 258. Other Settlements by Voluntary Immigrants, 258, 259. West Australia, 258. South Australia, 259. Port Phillip, 259. North Australia, 259, 260. Population of Australia, 260. Government, 260, 261. The Judiciary, 261. Colonial Life, 261, 262. Different Classes of Society, 262. Amusements and Fashions. 262. Schools, Colleges, and Literary and Benevolent Societies, 263. Style of Building, 263, 264. Condition of the Convicts, 264. Their Treatment, 264, 265. Discontinuance of New South Wales as a Penal CONTENTS. XV Colony, 265. Tasmania, or Van Diemen's Land, 265, 266. Geology, 266. Manner of Selling Lands in the Colony, 267.

Climate, 267. Vegetable and Animal Kingdoms, 267, 268. Harbors, Rivers, and Lakes, 268. Government, 269. Aboriginal Race, 269. Hobarton, 269,270. Launceston, 270. Sydney, 270, 271. The Public Buildings and Institutions, 271, 272. Paramatta, and Woolongong, 272, 273. Adelaide and other Towns, 273. Commerce of the Australian Colonies, 273, 274. Manufactures, 274. Saltworks, 274.

Chapter XI

Departure of the Squadron from Sydney, 275. Antarctic Expedition, 276. Macquarrie Island, 277. Land supposed to Exist near the Antarctic Circle, 277, 278. Deceptive Appearances, 278. Actual Discovery of Land, 279. Antarctic Continent, 279. Return to Sydney, 280. Discoveries of Biscoe and Balleny, 280, 281. French Expedition under M. d'Urville, 281, 282. Expedition under Captain Ross, 282. Discovery of Land, 283. Mount Erebus and Mount Terror, 283, 284. Icy Barrier, 284. Subsequent Voyages, 284, 285. Expedition under Lieutenant Moore, 285. Results of the Different Expeditions, 285. Tlie Whale Fishery, 285. Magnetic Observations, 285, 286. Geology of the Antarctic Continent, 286. Belt of Ice, 286. The Icebergs, 286, 287. Splendid Exhibitions of the Aurora Australis, 287. Last Traces of Vegetation, 287, 288. Animal Kingdom, 288. Sea-Lion, and Sea- Elephant, 288. " Killer," 288, 289. Wild Fowl, 289. Rendezvous of the Squadron in the Bay of Islands, 289.

Chapter XII

Acquisitions of England, 290. New Zealand, 291. Discovery, 291. Description of the Islands, 291, 292. Formation of the Country, 292. Rivers and Streams, 292, 293. Harbors, 293, 294. Bay of Islands, 293, 294. Towns, 294, 295. Volcanic Phenomena, 295. Hot Springs, 295. Minerals, 295, 296. Soil, 296. Climate and Diseases, 296, 297. Population, 297. Abandoned Character of the Inhabitants, 297. Occupation by Great Britain, 297, 298. Improvement in the State of Society, 298. Government, 298, 299. Native New Zealanders, 299. Their Character and Customs, 300. Ornaments, 300, 301. Influence Exerted by the Missionaries, 301. Mechanical Skill ofthe Natives, 301, 302. Amusements, 302. Power of the Chiefs in Former Times, 302, CONTENTS. 303. Fortified Towns, or Pas, 303. Native Habitations, 303, 304. Furniture, 304.

Dress, 304. Diet, 304, 305. Taboo, 305. Funeral Ceremonies, 305. Botany of the Islands, 305, 306. Pine Timber, 306. Fern and Flax, 306. New Zealand Spinach, 306, 307. Agriculture, 307. Foreign Products, 307. Animals and Birds, 308. Exports and Imports, 309. Canoes, 309. Manufactures, 309, 310. Sailing of the Squadron, and Arrival in the Tonga Islands, 310.

Chapter XIII

Discovery of the Tonga Group, 311. Description of the Islands, 311, 312. Physical Geography, 312. Climate, 312, 313. fertility of Tonga, 313. Productions of the Group, 313, 314. Culture ot the Soil, 314. Population, 314. Personal Appearance of the Tongese, 314, 315. Beautiful Women, 314, 315. Cleanly Habits, 315. Character, 315. Dress, 315, 316. Native Warriors, 316. Occupations, 316, 317. Birds and Animals, 317. Fondness for Tobacco and Ava, 317. Singing, 317, 318. Government, 318. Ancient Religion, 318. Divinities, 318, 319. Island of Bulotu, 319, 320. Dwellings, 320. Articles of Furniture, 320, 321. Beautiful Mats, 320, 321. Nukualofa, 322. Manner of Fortifying their Towns, 322. Expertness as Seamen, 322. Canoes, 322, 323. Mode of Sculling, 323. Missionaries, 323. War between the Christians and the " Devil's Party," 323, 324. Defeat of the Former, 324. Sailing of the Squadron for the Feejee Group, 324.

Chapter XIV

Bad Character of the Feejee Group, 325. Discovery and Geographical Description of the Islands, 326. Important Members of the Group, 327. Eastern Islands, 327. Vanua-levui, 327. Viti-levui, 328. Ovolau and Malolo, 328. Assua Group, 329. Rivers and Streams, 329. Harbors and Towns, 329, 330. Levuka, 329. Savu-Savu and its Hot Springs, 329, 330. Ambau and Rewa, 330, 331. Sawau, 331. Somu- Somu, 332. Evidences of the Volcanic Origin of the Islands, 333. Geological Formations, 333, 334. Richness of the Soil, 334. Climate, 334, 335. Diseases, 335. Productions, 335, 336. Preservation of Bread-Fruit, 335, 336. Fruit and Timber Trees, 336. Paper Mulberry and Tapa, 336. Mangrove, 336, 337. Edible Roots, 337. Cotton Plant and Tree, 337. Acclimated Fruits and Vegetables, 337. Flowering Plants and Shrubs, 337,338.

Agriculture, 338. Labor performed CONTENTS. XVII by the Women, 338. Zoology, 339. Whales and Turtles, 339. Modes of Taking Fish, 339. Biche de Mer, 339, 340. Birds, 340. Physi ognomy of the Feejeean, 340, 341. Appearance of the Women, 341. Mode of Wearing the Hair, 341, 342. Character of the Natives, 341, 342. Cannibal Propensities, 343. Wars between the Tribes, 343. Manner of Suing for Mercy, 343, 344. Contrast between the Charac ter of the Feejeeans, and the Scenery and Climate of the Islands, 344. A Field for tho Missionary, 344, 345. Population of the Group, 345. Government, 345. Dress of the Natives, 345, 346. Attention paid to the Toilet, 346, 347. Tattooing and Circumcision, 347. Mode of Sit ting, 347. Food, and its Preparation, 347. Pottery, 347, 348. Manner of Serving up Food, 348.

Ava-Drinking, 348. Amusements, 348, 349. Language, 349. Polygamy and Marriage, 349. Putting to Death the Old and Infirm, 349. Treatment of Women, 349. Divinities, 349, 350. Traditions and Superstitions, 349, 350. Ambati, or Priests, 350. Mbures, or Spirit-Houses, 351. Fortified Koros, 351. Furniture in the Native Houses, 351. Canoes, 351, 352. Mechanical Ingenuity, 352. Tools, 352. Articles of Commerce, 352, 353. Capture of Vendovi, 353. Burning of Tye and Sualib, 353. Murder of Lieutenant Underwood and Midshipman Henry, 354, 355. Chastisement of the Natives, 355. Departure from the Group, 356.

Chapter XV

Position and Destiny of the Sandwich Islands, 357, 358. Geographical Description, 358, 359, 360. Hawaii, 358. Maui, 359. Lauai and Kahoolavve, 359. Molokai, 359. Oahu, 359, 360. Kauai and Niihau, 360. General Character ofthe Scenery, 360,361. Rivers and Streams. 361. Geology, 361. Volcanoes, 361, 362. Burning Crater of Kilani'.a, 362, 363. Population, 363, 364, Causes of the Diminution, 364, 365. Heterogeneous Mixture, 365. Personal Appearance of the Natives, 365, 366. Characteristic Traits, 366, 367. Melancholy, 307. Dress, 367, 368. Royal Attire, 368. Ornaments, 368, 369. Sporting in the Surf, 369, 370. Amusements, 370, 371. Ancient Sport of Hoolua, 371. Taboo, 371, 372. Marriage, 372. The Kanakas, 372, 373. Articles of Food, 373. Making Poe, 373. Use of Tobacco, 373. Habits, 373. Deaths, 373, 374.

Mode of Salutation, 374. Arrival of the Missionaries, 374. Abolishment of Taboo and other Ancient Customs, 374, 375. Errors Committed, 375. Deplorable Condition of the Hawaiian, 375. The Remedy, 376. Acknowledgment ofthe Sabbath, and Adoption of other Reforms, 376, 377. Accession of Kamameha III, 376, 377. Written Constitution Adopted, 377. Declaration of Rights, 377. Leading Features of the Constitution, 377, 378. Police Regulations, 378. CONTENTS. Taxes, 379. Schools, 379. Scenery of the Islands, 379, 380. Soil and Climate, 380. Common Diseases, 380, 381. Fruit and Timber Trees, 381, 382. Vegetable Productions, 382. Failure of the Attempt to Manufacture Silk, 382, 383. Calabash-Tree, 383. Pasturage, 383. Flowering Plants and Shrubs, 383, 384. Birds, Fish, and Animals, 384, 385. Introduction of Fleas, 385.

Honolulu, 385, 386. Waikiki, 386. Kailua, 387. Lahaina, 387. Hilo Bay, 387. Kealakekua Bay, 387, 388. Waimea, 388. Building Materials, 388. Grass-Houses, 388, 389, 390. Furniture, 390. Commercial Importance of the Hawaiian Group, 390, 391. Exports and Imports, 391. Tonnage, 391. Manufactures, 391, 392. Canoes, 392. Arrival of the Squadron, 392. Voyage to Oregon, 392, 393.

Chapter XVI

Cruise of the Peacock and Flying Fish, 394. Washington Island, 394. Phœnix Group, 394, 395. Union Group, 395. Description of the Islands, 395, 396. The Inhabitants, 396. Dress, 396. Houses, 396, 397. Temple, 397. Wells, 397. Canoes, 397, 398. Mechanical Ingenuity, 398. Dances and Music, 398. Arrival at the Samoan Group, 398, 399. Burning of the Heathen Towns, 399. Ellice's Group, 399, 400. Appearance and Character of the Inhabitants, 400. Customs, 400. Ornaments and Dress, 400, 401. Canoes, 401. Implements and Weapons, 401. Kingsmill Group, 401, 402. Productions, 402. Beauty of the Climate, 402, 403. Animals, Birds, and Fish, 403. Population, 403. Personal Appearance, 403, 404. Beauty of the Young Women, 404. Hideousness of their Mothers, 404. Practice of Producing Abortions, 404, 405. Inhabitants of Pitt's Island, 405.

Character of the Kingsmill Islanders, 405. Respect paid to the Dead, 405. Want of Chastity, 406. Social Divisions and Government, 406. Descent of Rank and Property, 406, 407. Dress and Ornaments, 407. Tattooing, 407. Fondness for War, 407. Weapons and Armor, 407, 408. Ordinary Occupations, 408. Divinities, 408, 409. Native Elysium, 409. Births, 409. Marriages, 409, 410. Amusements, 410, 411. Dwelling Houses, 411. Furniture, 411, 412. Manner of Preparing Food, 412. Beverages, 412, 413. Canoes, 413. Tools, 413. Supposed Murder Committed by the Natives, 413. Burning of the Town of Utiroa, 413, 414. Sailing of the American Vessels, 414. Arrival at the Mouth of the Columbia, 414. Loss ofthe Peacock, 414. CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XVII

Boundaries of Oregon, 415, 416. Physical Geography, 416. Passes through the Mountains, 416, 417. Fertility ofthe Soil, 417. Geology, 417, 418. Population, 418. Indian Tribes, 418. The White Inhabitants, 418. Government, 418, 419. Principal Towns, 419. Rivers, 419, 420. Columbia, 419, 420. Other Streams, 420. Harbors, 421, 422. Puget's Sound, 421. Gray's Harbor, 421. Entrance to the Columbia River, 421, 422. Tilamuke, Celeste, and Yacquina Bays, 422. Climate of Oregon, 422, 423. Diseases, 423. Timber Trees, 423, 424. Agricultural Products, 424, 425. Domestic Animals, 425. Fruits, 425. Game, 425. Wild Fowl, 426. Discovery of California, 426. Expeditions of Cortes, 426, 427. Subsequent Expeditions, 427. Pearl Fisheries, 427. Establishment of the Jesuits in California, 427, 428. Colonization by the Spaniards, 428.

Gold known to Exist, 428. Slow Progress of the Country, 428, 429. Boundaries, 429. Modern Explorations, 429, 430. Discovery of Gold in 1848, 431. Effect on the Inhabitants, 431. Manner of Working the Placiras, 431, 432. Extent of the Gold District, 432. Purity of the Metal, 432, 434. Productiveness of the Mines, 434. Other Mineral Products, 435. Mine at Mariposa, 436. Prospects for the Future, 436, 437. Yield for the First Year, 437. Severity of the Labor, 438. Rage for Speculation, 438, 439. Present Population of the Territory, 439. Rapid Immigration, 439, 440. State of Society, 440. Adoption of a State Constitution, 440. Boundary Established by the Convention, 440, 441. Physical Geography, 441. Rivers, 441, 442. Harbors and Towns, 442, 443. Climate, 443, 444. Wild Animals, 444. Fertility of the Soil, 444. Agricultural Products, 444, 445. Forests, 445. Flowering Plants and Shrubs, 445, 446. Departure from San Francisco, 446. Arrival at Manilla, 446.

Chapter XVIII

City of Manilla, 447. Dwelling Houses, 447, 448. Public Buildings, 448. Cigar Manufactories, 448. Streets and Canals, 448, 449. Suburbs, 449. Population, 449. Society, 449. Dress, 450. Commerce of the Town, 450. Harbor, 450. The Philippines, 450, 451. Geological Formation, 451. Character of the Vegetation, 451. Chief Products, 451, 452. Zoology, 452. Climate, 452. Monsoons, 452. Trade and Manufactures, 453. Pina, 453. Government, 453. Sailing of the American Vessels, 453, 454. Arrival of the Vincennes at the Sooloo XX CONTENTS. Islands, 454. Geography of the Group, 454. Personal Appearance of the Inhabitants, 454. Customs, 455. Dress, 455. Principal Products, 454, 455. Commerce, 455. Cowry Shells, 455. Treaty with the Sultan, 455. Voyage to Singapore, 455. Description of the City and Island, 455, 456.

Geology, 456. Flora and Zoology, 456. Inhabi tants, 456, 457. Commercial Importance, 457. Sailing of the Ameri can Squadron, 457. Voyage Home, 457, 458. Cape Town, 458. Ar rival in the United States, 458.

Part II. Chapter

I. Destruction of the Cities of the Plain, 461, 462. Traditions, 462. The Infidel, 462, 463. Ancient and Modern Writers and Travellers, 463. Scientific Explorations, 463, 464. Expedition Projected by Lieutenant Lynch, 464. Preparations, 464. Boats for Navigating the Jordan and the Dead Sea, 464, 465. Departure from New York, 465. Arrival at Smyrna, 465. Appearance of the City, 465, 466. Buildings, 466. Population, 466. Costume and Climate, 467. Firman of the Sultan, 467, 468. Voyage to Beirut, 468. Description of the City, 468, 469. Costume of the Inhabitants, 469. The Tanlur, 469, 470. Arrival at St. Jean d'Acre, 470. Architecture, 471. Landing of the Exploring Party, 471. Arabian Horses, 471, 472. Sherif Hazza, 472. The Sheikh 'Akil, 472. The Bedawi of the Desert, 472, 473. Description of his Person and Mode of Life, 473.

Character, 474. Overland March of the American Exploring Party, 475. Plain of Acre, 475, 476. Arabian Escort, 476. Appearance of the Cavalcade, 476, 477. Villages of the Fellahin, 477. Houses, 477. Route taken by the Party, 477, 478. Vegetation, 478. Arrival at Tiberias, 479.

CHAPTER II.

Changes on the Shores of the Sea of Galilee, 480, 481. Size and Appearance ofthe Lake, 481. Depth ofthe Water, 481. Its Properties, CONTENTS. XXI 481. Geology of the Surrounding Country, 482. State of Agriculture, 482. Scriptural Associations, 482, 483. Tiberias, 483. Condition of the Jews, 483, 484. Sanhedrim, 484. Contrast between the Male and Female Jews in Personal Appearance, 484. Beauty of the Women, 484, 485. Practice of Carrying Water on their Heads, 485. Dress and Ornaments, 486. Source of the Jordan, 486. Course of the River, 486, 487. Scenery along its Banks, 487. Valley of El-Ghor, 487. Sin uosity of the Jordan, 487. Rapids and Cascades, 488. Tributaries, 488. Analysis of the Water, 488. Sacred Character of the River, 488, 489. Movements of the American Party, 489. Descent of the Stream, 489, 490.