Robert O'Hara Burke, and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860

Preface

. Serving in the same regiment with the head of the family to which belonged Robert O'Hara Burke, and sharing the personal attachment which every member of that family seems to inspire in those who know them, I naturally felt a deep interest in the noble career and melancholy fate of the gallant Leader of the Aus tralian Exploring Expedition of 1860. Animated by a strong feeling of admiration for the active energy, stedfast courage, and patient endurance shown by this brave man, in every stage of this arduous enterprise, I undertook the present attempt to record the incidents of the Exploration of Central Australia so successfully achieved. My task has been limited to arranging consecu tively the letters and journals of the explorers, and forming the whole into a connected narrative of the

PREFACE.

. progress and results of the Expedition, the vicissi tudes of the exploring party, and the fatal disasters which overtook them at last. In doing so, I have not been able to refrain from censuring the conduct of one of the party in particular, as well as vindi cating Mr. Burke ; who, in his character as Leader of the Expedition, presents a noble example of those qualities which are called for in the soldier, the voyager, and the pioneer of civilization. Andrew Jackson, Ensign, 3rd Buffs. Malta, June, 1862. CONTENTS. PAGE Preface ..... vii

Chapter II

Mr. Burke's Family ... 4 CHAPTER HI. Formation of the Exploring Party — Exploration Fund Committee — Public Dinner to Mr. Bnrke . . .10 CHAPTER TV. Departure of the Expedition — Journey to Menindie on the River Darling — Landells withdraws from the Party — Mr. Burke's difficult Position — Division of the Party — Measures for Formation of permanent Depot in the Interior ■ .18

CHAPTER V.

Instructions to Mr. Burke — Journey to Torowoto — Mr. Burke's first Despatch — Instructions to Mr. Wright . . 23

CHAPTER VI.

Journey to Cooper's Creek — Choice of a Site for Depot — Mr. Burke's first Journey and Return — Mr. Wills proceeds CONTENTS. X PAGE Northward — Loss of three Camels — Mr. Burke's Final Arrangements— Instructions to Brahe, and Despatch to the Committee at Melbourne . • • • • 31 CHAPTER VH. The written Records of the Expedition— Diary kept jointly by Messrs. Burke and Wills— Surveyor's Report on the Country lying between Torowoto and Cooper's Creek . • 38 CHAPTER VH!. Wright's Inactivity and Disregard of Mr. Burke's Instructions —His Inability to account for his Conduct . . .56

CHAPTER IX.

Departure for Carpentaria— Diary of the Explorers . . 62

CHAPTER X.

The Object of the Expedition accomplished— Messrs. Burke and Wills prepare to return to Cooper's Creek — Particulars furnished by King— Diary of the Return Journey — Arrival at Cooper's Creek . . . . . .92

CHAPTER XI.

Disappointment and Depression of the Party on finding the Depot deserted — Brahe's Journal of his Stay at Cooper's Creek .109 CHAPTER XH. The Explorers determine to move towards Mount Hopeless — Reasons for Mr. Burke's Choice of that Route — Two Camels killed — Kindness of the Natives — The Supply of Water fails — The Party are obliged to retrace their Steps — Find the Nardoo Plants, and resolve to make a last Attempt to CONTENTS. XI PAGE reach Mount Hopeless— Mr. Wills's last Visit to Cooper's Creek— Friendly Conduct of Natives— He reaches Depot, and deposits Journals, &c— The Natives visit Mr. Burke's Gunyah— A Fire breaks out— Mr. Wills rejoins the Party— They are reduced to subsist on the Nardoo — Become gradually more and more exhausted . . . .119 CHAPTER XIH. Burke and King resolve on making a last Effort to find the Blacks— Their Reluctance to leave Wills — His last Entries in the Journal— His Death — Burke's last Journey — His failing Strength — He becomes utterly exhausted the Second Day — His heroic Efforts — His last Moments — His Death . . 146 CHAPTER XrV.

Brahe's Journey towards the Darling — He meets with and joins Wright's Party — Brahe and Wright visit Cooper's Creek ; but failing to observe the Traces o Mr. Burke's Return, rejoin their Companions — Brahe arrives in Melbourne, and reports Progress — The Committee of the Royal Society deliberate as to what should be done to rescue Mr. Burke — Their Approval of his Measures . . . .154

CHAPTER XV.

Relief Parties despatched — King's Wanderings among the Blacks — Mr. Howitt's Proceedings — He discovers King — Rescues him — Interment of the Remains of Messrs. Burke and Wills — Distribution of Presents to the Natives . . .169

CHAPTER XVI.

Report of the Royal Commission — Despatch from the Government of Victoria — Reply of the Duke of Newcastle . CONTENTS. APPENDICES.

Appendix

page A. — Instructions to Leader. .... 205 B.— King's Narrative. . . • 209 C— Mr. Burke's Notes of the Expedition. . . 220 D. — Copy of a Letter from the Colonial Office to Major Burke, 3rd Regiment. .... 224 E. — Extracts from a Letter from Sir Henry Barkly, K.C.B., Governor of Victoria, to Major Burke, 3rd Regiment, ib. F. — Extract from a Resolution passed by the Grand Jury of the County of Galway. .... 226 G. — Extract from proceedings of the Annual Meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, held at London, on Monday the 26th May, 1862. .... ib. London Jmtfn BldtrAC?,6S,(bmhiU IS6Z. ROBERT O'HARA BURKE AND THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION OF 1860.

CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY,

The vast extent of the unexplored portion of the great Australian continent had long baffled numerous efforts made to penetrate its mysterious and silent depths. Although it was believed that the immense tract of country lying between the 15th and 30th parallels of south latitude, and 120th and 145th meridians of east longitude, contained, in all probability, habitable space sufficient to afford an eligible home to millions of civilized beings, yet none of the parties equipped at different times to explore it had ever done more than obtain a partial and unsatisfying success. Difficulties caused by want of water, im passability of ground, and dangers connected witli the open hostility or treacherous friendship of the aboriginal tribes, bad repelled the intrepid efforts of such men as Sturt, Gregory, Oxley, and others, who had vainly striven to overcome them ; while the mys terious fate of the esteemed and lamented Leichardt, although it did not prevent fresh attempts from being made, had yet exercised a depressing and melancholy effect on the spirits of the enterprising public, tending, on the Avhole, to produce a belief that, with regard to certain boundaries of Central Australia, it might be safely said, " Hither shalt thou come, and no farther."

To the Anglo-Saxon temperament, however, difficulties only serve as fresh incentives to exertion. The inhabitants of the colony of Victoria,* urged by a recollection of the generous spirit displayed by neighbouring colonies whose unassisted efforts had effected the more recent discoveries, and stimulated by the feeling that it behoved Victoria, as the wealthiest and most important of the group, to take her share in a work no less of the highest interest and importance in a scientific point of view than likely to prove hereafter of great commercial advantage to them selves, convened a public meeting in Melbourne on the 1st of September, 1858, for the purpose of pro moting the great object of Australian exploration. A donation of one thousand pounds, munificently * Despatch from Governor Sir Henry Barkly to the Duke of New castle, dated August 21, 1860.

INTRODUCTORY. 3 offered by an anonymous individual through the columns of the Argus newspaper, formed the nucleus of a private subscription, which speedily reached the sum of three thousand two hundred pounds, and a further sum of six thousand pounds having been subsequently voted by the Colonial Legislature towards the expenses of the expedition, the whole fund was placed at the disposal of a committee of the Royal Society of Victoria, presided over by Sir Henry Barkly, K.C.B., governor of the colony. This society, which had already had under its consideration the great assistance likely to be derived from the use of camels in the interior, had previously made arrangements to import from India a number of these animals, twenty-four of which were successfully landed in first-rate order in the early part of 1860.

After some further preliminaries and con sideration as to the selection of a leader for the expe dition, the choice of the committee at length fell on Robert O'Haea Burke, Esq., one of the superin tendents of the police force of the colony, a short account of whose family and previous career will be found in the succeeding chapter. 1—2

CHAPTER II. MR.

BURKE'S FAMILY. James Hardiman Burke, Esq., representative of one of the old families in the county of Galway, in Ireland, was engaged, like his sons after him, in the service of his country, having been present with the 7th Royal Fusiliers at the capture of the islands of Martinique and Guadaloupe. After having served several years in the army, he retired to the family estates at St. Clerans, and died in January, 1854. His eldest, and now only surviving son, John Hardiman Burke, served seventeen years in the 88th Foot, with whom he was employed in the Mediterranean, West Indies, Nova Scotia, and other foreign stations. He accompanied his regiment to Turkey on the outbreak of the Crimean war, and was present at the battles of Alma, Inkermann, and Balaklava. He served on the staff of Lieutenant- General Sir John Burgoyne during the siege of Sebastopol, was promoted for his services to a majo- MR. BURKE'S FAMILY. 5 rity, and afterwards joined the 3rd Buffs, with which regiment he is at present serving in the Medi terranean.

The second son, James Thomas Burke, also entered the army at an early age. A clever mathematician and skilful engineer, a high-spirited and daring soldier, brave even to a fault, he lost his life at the battle of Giurgevo, on the Danube, on the 7th of July, 1854. Having, as a lieutenant of Engineers, accompanied Sir John Burgoyne to the seat of war, previous to the embarkation of the British expedition for the East, he assisted Omar Pasha in making arrangements for the defence of Silistria,* and being, like his countryman Butler, a volunteer in the service of the Sultan, entered that place among the gallant bands by whom it was afterwards so bravely defended. When the siege was raised, he joined Hussein Pasha at the fortress of Rustchuk, and strongly remonstrated with that general on his pro jected attack on the posts near Giurgevo, on the grounds that for certain obvious strategical reasons, the Russians must speeedily evacuate the town with out causing any expenditure of life or labour.

The hot-headed Hussein, however, who directed the operations from behind the walls of Rustchuk, decided on making the assault, and the brave Burke, like a gallant soldier, having first performed his duty in pointing out the rashness of the measure, imme- * Nolan's History of the Russian War. diately threw his whole soul into the work. The following account of his heroic death is taken from Russell's History of the Crimean War : — " When he first leaped on shore from the boat, six soldiers charged him. Two he shot with his revolver, one he cut down with his sword, the rest turned and fled. While he was encouraging the Turks who were in the stream to row quietly to the land, and forming them in line as they disembarked, conspicuous as he was in full uniform and by his white cap cover, a number of riflemen advanced from behind a ditch and took deliberate aim at him.

He charged them with headlong gallantry, and, as he got near, was struck by a ball, which broke his jawbone; but he rushed on, shot three men dead at close quarters, and cleft two others, through helmet and all, into the brain, with his sword. He was then surrounded, and while engaged in cutting his way with heroic courage through the ranks of the enemy, a sabre-cut from behind nearly severed his head from his body, and he fell dead, covered with wounds, of which thirty-three, consisting of sabre gashes, lance and bayonet thrusts, blows from the butts of muskets, and bullet-holes, were afterwards found on his body." He was the first British officer killed in the Russian war. Two Sappers, who were with him, stood by him to the last, but were afterwards swept away, with hundreds of others, before the walls of Sebastopol.

One of these, Anderson, a most distinguished soldier, recovered the dead body of his officer on the mornino after the battle, at the imminent peril of his own life, MR. BURKE'S FAMILY. 7 and was rewarded by Omar Pasha with the Order of the Medjidie for his heroic conduct. The third son, Robert O'Hara Burke, was born in 1821, and commenced his career as a cadet of the Woolwich Academy, but left it to enter upon a higher course of studies in Belgium. He afterwards entered the Austrian service as cadet in the Seventh Reuss Regiment of Hungarian Hussars, and at an early period obtained his lieutenancy. Quitting this service, he procured an appointment in the Irish Constabulary in 1848, and was almost adored by the men of that force, several of whom sent in their resignations when he left, and proceeded to Australia, that they might have an opportunity of continuing to serve under him.

As another instance of the remarkable attachment he was accustomed to inspire in those connected with him, it may be mentioned that a woman named Ellen Doherty, of the age of sixty-five years, who had been his nurse, and whose heart yearned with a longing to see' her " dear Master Robert," as she still continued to call him, left her comfortable home near the family seat of St. Clerans, in the county of Galway, where she had been well cared for as an old retainer of the family, and, unknown to any one, making use of the savings accumulated to sustain her in her old age, travelled, unprotected, alone, with the best feelings of her heart clinging close round him, to try and see her darling once more before she died. Alas! that meeting was never to take place in this world. She reached Melbourne after he had set out on the expedition from which he never returned alive.

It is pleasant to know that her case excited the greatest sympathy in Australia, and that provision was afterwards made for her comfortable support by the Government of the colony. Mr. Burke emigrated in 1853, and was soon ap pointed acting inspector of police in Melbourne, whence he was transferred to a command at Carls ruhe, being soon after advanced to the Beechworth district, to relieve Mr. Price, the police magistrate, with promotion to the post of district inspector. On the news of the Crimean war he hastened home, on leave of absence, in the hope of getting a commission ; but finding himself too late to share in the glories of the campaign, he returned to resume his Australian duties, in the discharge of which he rendered himself most popular. In 1858 he was removed to Castlemaine, and was comfortably stationed there, when he applied for and obtained the appointment of Leader of the Victorian Exploring Expedition.

From the moment it became probable that he would be selected to fill this responsible post, Mr. Burke is said to have diligently prepared him self for it, by devoting himself, with his habitual energy, to qualifying for it in every possible way. He at once commenced an active examination of MR. BURKE'S FAMILY. 9 the records of previous explorers, so as to become thoroughly acquainted with whatever had befallen them, as well as to acquire such knowledge of the interior, and remote coasts, as had already been placed on record. He had been at all times an accomplished and daring horseman, and now entered upon a course of severe pedestrian exercise, accustom ing himself to fatigue and privation of every possible kind that an attempt to traverse the vast untrodden wilds of Central Australia was likely to bring to his experience.

Chapter III

Formation of the Exploring Party — Exploration Fund Committee — Puhlic Dinner to Mr. Burke. Mr. Burke's appointment was immediately followed by the selection of the other members of the Expe dition. Mr. G. J. Landells, who had originally been entrusted with the importation of the camels, and who had carried out the duties confided to him in the most successful and satisfactory manner, was offered the post of second in command, with the view of securing the aid of his personal superintendence in the management of animals, which had been provided at great expense, and from which much was expected. One circumstance connected with this appointment speaks so strongly to the high feeling and utter abnegation of personal interests displayed by Mr. Burke at this period, that it may be fitly mentioned here, to the honour of one of the most active and energetic men ever employed on an expedition of difficulty and danger.

It is this : when Mr. Landells' salary, which it was proposed to fix at a certain rate, was, on inquiry, found to be higher than that allotted to Mr. Burke, the committee at once saw the neces- THE EXPLORING PARTY. 11 sity of augmenting the leader's salary to a greater, or, at least, equal amount. This, however, Mr. Burke firmly declined : cordially supporting the proposition in favour of Mr. Landells, he said that gentleman's services ought to be secured at his own price or not at al!, and that he cared nothing for money himself. How far this frank and manly course operated in setting an example of subordination and forbear ance to Mr. Landells at a later period, when his adherence began to be of importance, will be seen from the sequel. The third officer of the expedition was Mr. William John Wills, of the Melbourne Observatory.

This gentleman — whose patience, perseverance, and noble fidelity to his leader, never at any time forsook him, and whose name is immortalized as Burke's faithful companion in danger and in death — shares with his heroic chief the honour of being the first to cross the Australian continent from sea to sea. He was born at Totness, Devonshire, in 1834, and, being destined for the medical profession, studied at St. Bartholomew's Hospital, and distinguished himself as a student in chemistry. He arrived in Australia in 1852, where, after some years spent with his father in the practice of medicine, during which time he had displayed a taste for, and great ability in the study of, astronomy and meteorology, he was at length nominated to the staff of the Observatory in Melbourne. He applied to join the Expedition, which he did at considerable pecuniary sacrifice, and was at once appointed astronomical and meteorolo gical observer, and third in command.

Doctor Herman Beckler was appointed medical adviser, and botanist to the expedition. Doctor Ludwig Becker was also attached to it as artist, naturalist, and geological director. The following were engaged as foremen and assistants in subordinate capacities : — Messrs. Fer guson and Hodgkinson, William Brahe, John King, William Patten, Charles Gray, Thomas F. Mac- Donough, Dost Mohammed, a sepoy, and two natives, named respectively Belooch and Botan : there were fifteen persons in all. The original committee, which at first belonged exclusively to the Royal Society of Victoria, had latterly become amalgamated with another body, selected at a public meeting for the purpose of rais ing subscriptions, under the name of the " Explora tion Fund Committee." These two, when united, took charge, with the consent of the Government, of all subsequent proceedings, and were presided over by the Hon. Sir William F. Stawell, Chief Justice of the colony, as Chairman.

The other members were : — The Hon. John Hodgson, M.L.C., Vice-Chairman ; Mr. Ligar, the Surveyor General ; Mr. Hodgkinson, the Deputy Surveyor General ; Professor M'Coy ; Professor Neumayer ; Dr. Mueller ; Captain Cadell ; Mr. EXPLORING FUND COMMITTEE. 13 Selwyn ; Rev. Mr. Bleasdale ; Dr. Gilbee ; Dr. Eades ; John Watson, Esq. ; Angus M'Millan, Esq.; Dr. Iffla; Sizar Elliott, Esq. ; Dr. MacKenna; James Smyth, Esq. ; Dr. Enabling. The Hon. Dr. Wilkie, Treasurer; and the Hon. Dr. M'Adam, M.P., as Secretary. These gentlemen, having completed the appoint ment of the different officers of the expedition, &cL, lost no time in providing the necessary stores and means of transport; and several members of the committee, among whom was Sir William Stawell, assisted Mr. Burke in the selection of the various matters necessary to be provided for that purpose.

Large quantities of dried meat, flour, biscuit, sugar, forage for the camels and horses, as well as an abundant supply of veterinary and other medicines, were supplied, to the value of nearly 5,000^. ; these were calculated to last for twelve months, and were not in tended to be trenched upon while the party remained within the bounds of civilization. Nothing that the most anxious care could suggest, to provide for the comfort and safety of the explorers, was omitted ; and the most competent authorities in every branch of scientific inquiry, regardless of time and trouble, vied with each other in exerting themselves to give all the assistance and information possible, so as to render the expedition which Mr. Burke commanded one of the best equipped bodies that had ever been organized for such a purpose.

The astounding and heart-rending fact that these abundant stores were withheld from the bravest spirits of the party in their hour of greatest need, and the name of the individual responsible for the fatal neglect, will appear in its proper place hereafter, to the shame and everlasting disgrace of the unhappy man who accepted and betrayed his leader's sacred trust. Mr. Burke did not leave the scene of his previous duties without receiving from the inhabitants of Castlemaine abundant proofs of their attachment to him, as well as of the high estimation in which his services were held. On Friday, July 6th, 1860, a large and influential assemblage sat down to a public dinner given in his honour, at which it was found impossible to furnish room for all the persons who wished to attend to bid their guest a kind farewell and wish him God speed.

To assist in preserving the record of scenes which have acquired a mournful interest from Mr. Burke's sad fate, a brief account of what then took place is here transcribed, with a summary of some of the speeches delivered by the principal speakers on the occasion. The chair was filled by William Froomes, Esq., president of the Municipal Council. W. B. Collyns, Esq., and Dr. Preshaw officiated as croupiers ; and all classes of the community were ably represented by men most anxious to give expression to the un bounded enthusiasm which prevailed. After the usual loyal toasts had been given and responded to, PUBLIC DINNER TO MR. BURKE. 15 the Chairman rose to propose the toast of the even ing. He remarked upon the cordial demeanour, urbane and frank manner, and numerous sterling qualities of their honoured guest, and bore testimony to the humanity and discrimination with which he had performed many unostentatious acts of kindness while stationed among them.

In thus giving ex pression to the sentiments of all, it became his duty publicly to assure Mr. Burke that, in his glorious undertaking as leader of the explorers, the prayers and best wishes of a thousand hearts would follow and accompany him ; and that, while they regretted the loss they suffered in being deprived of his presence there, they yet felt a pride in the reflection that the man who they believed was destined to penetrate and explore the pathless wilds of Central Australia had some time lived among them, and would at some future period remember, perhaps with pleasure, the parting hours he had spent with his friends that day. The Rev. J. Storie also rose to say a few words. A brave man whom they all esteemed was going forth on an enterprise of national importance and areas peril, and they had met to wish him with all their hearts " God speed."

If there really existed within their great continent a Sahara — a desert of sands, parent of hot winds — they should like to know the fact. If great lakes, on whose verdant banks thousands of cattle might feed, or watered plains which might tempt men to build new cities, let them know the character and promise of the land, by the true report of a true man. As in the ancient days of Bible story brave men were sent to view the Land of Promise, so a gallant band now quitted them on a like errand, and he might assure his guest that while his best wishes accompanied him, he could also pro mise that his party would be followed by the prayers of one congregation at least, who would remember him before the throne of grace, and pray that he and his brave companions might be preserved from all peril, and having prospered in their enterprise, might come back, safe and triumphant, to be crowned with laurels by a grateful country.

Last of all, the meeting was eloquently addressed by Mr. Leech. He reviewed the history of exploration from the earliest times. He recognized in the energy of the Anglo-Saxon character a means made use of by Providence to bestow the blessings of civi lization on millions of the human race. He pictured the rise and progress of future states within their vast continent, and trusted that the day would come when men of future generations, teaching their children, would say, " My son, the country in which we live was first opened to us by Robert O'Hara Burke." When Mr. Burke rose to respond, some time elapsed before the enthusiasm of his admirers would allow him to make himself heard. He said he was about to make his first speech. He felt deeply the MR. BURKE'S SPEECH. 17 warm sympathy and hearty expressions of good-will with which he had that evening been honoured, and knew it was unnecessary for him to say how he appreciated the kind and generous feeling which led those present to encourage a man who found himself appointed to an arduous and difficult position.

He had used every fair, honourable, and straightforward means to secure his post. Like all other men under similar circumstances, he had had his detractors, but he hoped that his future conduct would be to these a sufficient answer. With heartiest thanks to all who had been kind to him, and to the people of Castle maine particularly, he would cheerfully encounter his task, and he pledged himself to strain every nerve to bring the expedition to a successful issue. And nobly he redeemed his pledge.

Chapter IV

Departure of the Expedition — Journey to Menindie on the River Darling — Landells withdraws from the Party — Mr. Burke's difficult Position— Division of the Party— Measures for formation of permanent Depot in the Interior. On the 20th of August, 1860, the Expedition quitted the Royal Park at Melbourne. Headed by Messrs. Burke, Landells, and Wills, and amidst a burst of popular enthusiasm which seemed to pervade all classes, the heroic adventurers started on their perilous mission. On the 24th the Expedition camped at Sand hurst, and on the following day proceeded en route to Swan Hill, which it reached on the 6th of September; and at this place it was most hospitably entertained by the leading inhabitants prior to its taking leave of the colony of Victoria. It then entered the adjoin ing territory of New South Wales, and proceeded towards the Darling, a tributary of the Murray River, into which the former flows about 120 miles south of Menindie.

At this last-named place Mr. Burke established his first depot. He reached it about the 23rd of September, and although the journey so far had been easy, yet the whole of the stores had not arrived. LANDELLS' WITHDRAWAL FROM THE PARTY. 19 A difficulty here arose with Mr. Landells, which led to that gentleman's withdrawal from the party. It would seem that Mr. Landells had laid such stress on the importance of the position he him self held in the expedition, that he was unable to control certain feelings of impatience at the exercise of authority on the part of Mr. Burke ; although it was distinctly understood before the expedition left Melbourne that " no divided authority could be re cognized, nor could the absolute authority of the leader be permitted to be called in question." * Indeed, it is difficult to conceive how any man in his senses could attempt to interfere with the absolute supremacy of command indispensably necessary in an enterprise of such danger and importance.

At all events, as has been said, a difficulty arose. Mr. Burke, considering that some rum which had been brought up for the use of the camels endangered the sobriety of his men, decided on leaving it behind ; but to this prudent measure Mr. Landells would by no means consent. Big with his own importance, and putting out of sight the necessity of implicit obedience to his chief, who was striving, at the peril of fame, fortune, and life, to fulfil the duty with which he had been entrusted; moreover, disregarding the possible evil effect of his withdrawal upon other members of the party, who, already growing faint of * Letter from Professor M'Coy to Mr. Landells, dated 24th No vemher, 1860. 2—2 heart, only sought a decent opportunity of retiring from their posts ; and influenced himself, it was afterwards publicly suggested, by feelings of misgiving, Mr. Landells resigned.