Ireland in 1834. A journey throughout Ireland during the Spring, Summer and Autumn of 1834. ... Third edition

Front matter

IRELAND IN 1834. A JOURNEY THROUGHOUT IRELAND, DUHING THE SPRING, SUMMER, AND AUTUMN OF 1334. II Y HENRY D. INGLIS, AUTHOR OF " SPAIN IN 1830," " THE CHANNEL ISLANDS," " THE TYROL," &C. Œl-jtrtr <£tftti0ii. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL I. LONDON: WHITTAKER & CO., AVE-MARIA LANE. 1835lon . " > n : PRINTED BV MANNING AM' SMITH SON, lVls-LANI*-,, PATERNOSTER-ROW. TO MATTHEW BARRINGTON, ESQ. My dear Sir, It is not, believe me, in the foolish vanity of supposing I confer a favour, that I dedicate these volumes to you; nor is it even meant, in some sort, as an acknowledgment of the many aids and kindnesses for which I stand your debtor: that aebt would continue undiminished, if I were to dedicate to you fifty books, — better than any I either have written, or ever shall write. I have better reasons than these, for my dedication.

Sitting over my coffee, devouring " The Last Days of Pompeii," this note was handed to me : — " Sir, — We only wait for the contents, and dedi cation, in order to put the last sheet to press." DEDICATION. IV The dedication ! Why, I never thought of a dedication : — " let the devil wait, — and shut the door." No, said I, — laying down my pen, which I had hastily dipped in the ink, — and ringing the bell; I '11 not do the thing in a hurry. There 's no occasion to wait ; I '11 send the dedication tomorrow. This, said I, — drawing my great chair in front of the fire, and placing my slippered feet on the fender, — this is not a thing which ought to be done hastily: a book need not, indeed, have a dedication at all; but, if there be a dedication, it ought to be a judicious one. My book, said I, musingly, and gently tapping the fire, — is a truth-telling book, — it is no party book, — and, God knows — (while a thousand images of appalling misery, and hopeless poverty, — not poetical fancies, but stern realities — thronged upon my memory), — God knows I feel acutely for the people of this unhappy land.

I will dedicate my book to some one, who knows thoroughly, the DEDICATION. V country and its needs; some one who is no hot and headstrong partizan : some one, who has the good of his country at heart, and who has proved it too. I wheeled my chair round, and wrote this dedi cation ; and I do most solemnly aver, that if I knew any man better acquainted with Ireland and her people than yourself, — if I knew a man **** who holds in greater detestation, the extremes of party, — if I knew a man who loves his country better, or would serve it more faithfully than you, — or one who has given more disinterested proofs of sympathy with the helpless poor, — I would dedicate my book to that man. But I know of no such man. On some points of minor importance, our opinions may not, perhaps, entirely coincide.

Chapter I

Introductory Observations — Arrival in Dublin, and ,° First Impressions — Deceptiveness of Appearances in Dublin — Striking Contrasts — The Liberty of Dublin, and its Population — Traits of Character and Condition — Improvidence and Ostentation— Dublin as a City — its Streets, Squares, Buildings, and Park — The Mendicity, and other Institutions — Society — Street Population - 1

Chapter II

Journey through Wicklow to Avoca — The Meeting of the Waters, and the Vale of Avoca — The Jaunting-car — Condition of the People, and Mode of Life — Facts — Religious Differences — Journey to Wexford — Gorey, and its neighbourhood — The People — Loan Society — Rents — Orange Lodges — Lord Courtown's Domain — Ferns and its Bishop — Enniscorthy — Lord Portsmouth's Estate — Approaches to Wexford — the Town and its Inhabitants — Prices — The Barony of Forth ; the state and peculiarities of the Inhabitants ------ 21

Chapter III

Mr. Bianconi and his Establishment — Memoir of Mr. Bianconi — Journey from Wexford to Waterford — New Ross — Land and Farmers — Con-acre — Tithe — Road to Waterford, and Cabins by the road-side — The Quay of Waterford — Export Trade of Waterford — Condition of the People — Landed Proprietors — Monk-houses — CONTENTS. VIII Page Whiskey-drinking and Licenses— Neighbouring Water ing Places— Cotton Factory at Mayfield— Marquis of Waterford's Domain— The Beresfords— Carrick-on-Suir, and its Poverty — The Duncannon Estates — Return to Waterford— Waterford Beggars— Journey to Kilkenny — Thomastown and its neighbourhood— Pigs, and a new Light— Is Ireland an improving Country? — A Holiday — Catholic Population— Land, and Middle-men— Leases — Excursion to Innistioge and Woodstock - - - - 52

Chapter IV

Journey to Kilkenny — Our Ignorance respecting Irish Towns — The Antiquities of Kilkenny— its Cathedral and Round Tower — Picturesque Ruins— the Castle — Condition of the People — Kilkenny Manufactures, and Mis-statements — The Repeal Question — Pigs and Dung-heaps — Kilkenny "Boys" — The Town of Callen, and its Proprietor, Lord Clifden — Some Facts and Opinions — The Aristocracy of Ireland — Journey to Thurles — Freshford and Johnstown — The Bog of Allen — Thurles, and its Inhabitants — The Ruins of Holy Cross — Journey to Cashel— Cashel, and the Rock of Cashel — The Archbishop — his Gardens — Another Round Tower — Market-day in Cashel — Pig-selling and Buying, and Irish Bargaining — Miserable Objects in Cashel— Country between Cashel and Tipperary — Outrage and its Origin— Tithes — Competition for Land — Abduction — The Town of Tipperary, and Condition of the People — Mr. Stanley's Estates — Correction of an Error — — — 86

Chapter V

Journey to Clonmel — Cahir, and its beautiful neighbourhood — Lord Glengall — The Catholic Chapel, and a Scene — The Priesthood— Condition of the People — Scenery of the Suire — Fine Gardens — Cahir Fair — Weddings in this part— Road to Clonmel— Prosperity of the Town— Trade of Clonmel— Corn Mills in England CONTENTS. IX • t Pa8e and in Ireland— Mr. Bianconi— Employment of Labour — Religious Sects — General Indications of prosperity — Libraries— Public Institutions— State of Society in the Southern Counties— Environs of Clonmel— Journey to Mitchelstown 123

Chapter VI

Mitchelstown and its situation — Lord Kingston's Domain and Castle — Miserable condition of the People of Mitchelstown, and Details — State of the surrounding Country — Rents — The Sessions at Mitchelstown — Lord Kingsbro's Mountain Lodge— Prices of Provisions— Mitchelstown Caves — Journey to Mallow — Donneraille —Mallow— State of the Poor of Mallow, and of the Neighbourhood — Farmers — Mallow as a Watering Place — Suburbs — Duty on Glass — English and Irish Ideas of Comfort — Difficulties in the way of Improvement — Schools — Markets — and rough Manners — The Vicinity of Mallow — Neighbouring Landlords — Bad feeling between the Aristocracy and the People — Return to Mitchelstown — Its excellent Hotel — 140

Chapter VII

Journey to Lismore — Fermoy — The Blackwater River — Lismore — Picturesque Views— Condition of the Town, and neighbouring Landholders — The Duke of Devonshire — Other Landlords — Ejectments — Visit to the Trappist Settlement at Cappoquin— Details — Environs of Lismore — The Castle — Descent of the Blackwater to Youghall — The Town of Youghall — Its situation — Antiquities — and Inhabitants— Means of Improvement — Trade— The Church— Sir Walter Raleigh's House- Emigration — Journey to Cork — Situation, Streets, and Population of Cork — Suburbs — Traits of Character — Public Institutions — Present state of Cork as a Commercial City ------------ CONTENTS. X

Chapter VIII

Page The Cove of Cork— Descent of the River Lee — Cove Town and Harbour — Means of improvement of Cove — Boating Excursion to Blarney— Blarney Castle—" The Groves of Blarney"— The Kissing-stone— Journey to Bantry — Bandon — Clonakilty— Ross-Carberry— Picturesque Sce nery — Proofs of Poverty— Skibbereen — Bantry, and its Bay— Cultivation of Bog Land— Coral Sand as Manure —Road to Glengariff— Scenery of Glengariff— Passage across the Mountains — Kenmare — Improving Condition of Kenmare — The surrounding Country, and Banks of the Kenmare River — The Barony of Glanrougbt, and Lord Lansdowne's Estates — Impressions, Facts, and Details — Land and Rents — Condition of the People — Blackwater Bridge — The New Road from Bantry to Kenmare 192

Chapter IX

The Town of Killarney — Idleness and Pauperism — Lord Kenmare — Bad Feeling among the Aristocracy, and its Causes— The Lakes — The Author's Opinion of Killarney Lakes — Their Character — Upper Lake, Turc Lake, Lower Lake — Glena — Innisfallen — The Echoes — Comparison with the English Lakes — Muckross Abbey — The Earl of Kenmare's Domain ------ 220

Chapter X

Journey through the Wilds of Kerry — Castlemain Bay — Killorglin — Lord Headly's Estate — Sea Views — O'Connell's Country — The Agitator in his own Country — The Grand Jury Bill — An Anecdote — Cahir-siveen — Condition of the Landholders — Intelligence of the Kerry Peasantry — Examples — Valentia Island — Voyage across the Bay to Dingle — Dingle, and the Condition of the People — Peculiarities of the Inhabitants of this District —Extreme early Marriages — The Catholic Clergy, and proposed Provision for them— Brandon Bay— The Tithe Question— Journey to Tralee - - - . - r -* - CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XI

Page Tralee— The Quarter Sessions in Tralee— The Civil and Criminal Cause List— State of Kerry— Faction — The Police of Ireland — Litigiousness of the Irish — Prosperity of Tralee — Trade — Prices of Provisions — Unemployed Poor — Journey to Listowel and Tarbert — Traits of Character — First View of the Shannon — Details — Tarbert, and the Shores of the Shannon — Irish Inns of the West — Steam Navigation on the Shannon — Ascent of the Shannon to Limerick — Road to Ennis — Clare, and the River Fergus — Ennis — Land, and high Rents — Environs of Ennis ----------- 252

Chapter XII

Clare Assizes — English and Irish Assizes — Description of Cases tried — Fair Murders — Spirit of Faction — Difficulty of eliciting Truth — Disregard of an Oath — Extent to which Faction is carried — A paid Magistracy necessary — Rape Cases — Abduction — Murder — Assaults — Kissing the Book — Superstitions — General Impressions from attending an Irish Assize -------- 280

Chapter XIII

Return to Limerick — The New and Old Towns — Present State of the Trade of Limerick — Prosperity — Projected Improvements — Mr. Spring Rice — Public Institutions — TheLunatic Asylum — The Barrington Hospital — Antiquities — Condition ofthe Destitute Poor, and unemployed Artizans of Limerick — Minute Details — Poor laws — a Mont de Piete — Loan Fund — Environs of Limerick — Lands and Rents — Embarkments on the Shannon — The Village of Adair — Currah, and Dunraven - - 295

Chapter XIV

Ascent of the Shannon from Limerick to Athlone— Castle Connell -The Rapids— Holy Well -The River above Castle Connell — Killaloe — The Steam Navigation Com- CONTENTS. XII Page pany — Voyage up Loch Dergh to Portumna — Character of this expansion of the Shannon — Details of the Ascent — Portumna — The River, and its banks between Por tumna and Banagher— Comparison with other Rivers — Desolate Scenes — Banagher Journey to Athlone - 315

Chapter XV

Athlone — The Bridge and the Shannon — Barracks and Fortifications — Ballymahon — Land, Landlords, and Rents in the County of Longford — Condition of the Farmers — The Protestant Population — Religious Dissension — Want of Sympathy with the People, on the part of the Aristocracy — Labouring Classes — Con-acre — Irish Opposition to the Law — The Protestant Clergy — The Catholic Priesthood — Trading Magistrates — Necessity for a Stipendiary Magistracy ---------.; A JOURNEY THROUGHOUT IRELAND.

Chapter I

Introductory Observations — Arrival in Dublin, I First Impressions — Deceptiveness of Appearances in Dublin — Striking Contrasts — The Liberty of Dublin, and its Population — Traits of Character and Condition — Improvidence and Ostentation — Dublin as a City — its Streets, Squares, Buildings, and Park — The Mendicity, and other Institutions — Society — Street Population. It might be considered an impertinence, were I to begin this book, by any general assertion of the ignorance of the British public, respecting Ireland ; there can be no impertinence, however, in acknow ledging my own ; and now that I have seen Ireland, I may be permitted to say, that during my journey throughout that country, I found more to correct in my previous impressions and VOL. I. B 1834. 2 opinions, than in any journey I ever made through any other country.

Let me for a moment exclude from this acknowledgment, the social condition of the people of Ireland, and apply it but to all that is visible to the eye, — her cities, towns, and villages; her mountains, vales, and rivers ; her mansions, domains, ruins, and castles ; the general aspect, in short, of the country ; and — without touching yet, upon the social condition of the people — the aspect of the population in town and country; in their habitations, their dress, and in all that is external. If I was ignorant upon all these things, how profound must have been my ignorance respecting all that lies beneath the surface; and that can only be come at by patient observation, and anxious inquiry. I was every where informed that Ireland is a difficult country to know : that in case of attempt ing to glean opinions on all hands, their contrariety would bewilder me ; or, that if, in endeavouring to avoid this cause of bewilderment, my inquiries took a more limited range, it would in that case be difficult, if not impossible, to escape the infiu- 1834. 3 ence of the peculiar opinions of those amongst whom I might be thrown.

This difficulty was strongly urged upon me by an eminent and talented judge, at whose table, in Dublin, my intended journey formed the subject of conversa tion ; and he then said, that he could easily imagine two well educated persons, and both equally free from prejudice, returning to Dublin from a journey through Ireland, with views and impressions directly opposed to each other ; according as the letters of introduction which they carried with them, chanced to be, to men of one party, or to men of another. This most to be dreaded cause of error, — a shoal upon which, I fear, many who have written upon Ireland, have made shipwreck of truth, — I endeavoured to avoid, by seeking and obtaining letters of introduction to men of all opinions, of all ranks, and of all religions ; and if, in adopting this course, I encountered that other difficulty, arising from diversity of opinion, I trusted to be able to overcome it, by minute personal observation of the things about which this diversity of opinion existed.

I shall give an example of what I mean. I shall 1834. suppose that I have an introduction to a landlord who has a great objection to poor laws, and who is, besides, partial to high rents. I say to him, perhaps, " How are the people off in your neighbourhood, — have you many unemployed labourers?" Or, I say to him, " Are rents pretty moderate hereabouts?" Let it be recollected, that I put these questions in utter ignorance of the character and opinions of the individual whom I address ; for it may happen, that this man is a good and considerate landlord, and no foe to poor laws. He might probably say, in reply to the first question ; " Indeed the people are pretty well off, we have scarcely any unemployed labourers here abouts." And to my second question he might say ; " Indeed rents are pretty moderate in this neighbourhood, we have many comfortable farmers hereabouts."

I might put the same questions to an individual of that extreme party, which is desirous of making everything as bad as possible : and the reply would probably be, " Egad, half the people here are starving;" or "the whole land in this parish is rack-rented." All this is very puzzling ; but the corrective is 1834. 5 to be found in personal observation, and more minute inquiry. If I go to the market place of the little town, and see some scores of men standing with agricultural implements in their hands, willing to be hired at eightpence a-day without diet, and yet not hired, — then I am sure that there is not con stant employment for all who desire it : or, if I go into half-a-dozen cabins, and find every one a filthy hovel, filled with squalid and ragged children, greedily scrambling for a dry potato : or, if I walk into the country, and meet women who have been begging a few potatos amongst the farmers ; and if I return with them, and find that they are carrying the potatos home to an infirm mother or father, or husband out of work, or famishing children, — then surely I am able to estimate at its true value, the opinion of the individual who assured me, that "* the people were pretty well off."

If, on the other hand, I find few labourers idle, and if I find cabins com paratively habitable, and their inmates luxuriating on potatos and butter-milk, enough and to spare ; I am then able to correct the assertion of the in dividual who said half the people were starving. It is evident, that upon all matters touching the 1834. social condition of a people, opinions may be cor rected and estimated by personal observation : and although in journeying through Ireland one finds abundant cause for astonishment in the widely varying opinions and contradictory assertions upon every subject connected with the country and the people ; I yet believe that truth may be come at by any one who will take pains to seek it out, and who comes to the search with an unbiassed mind : — and before entering upon my journey, I would only add, that I lay claim to this distinction.

I have no purpose to serve, no party to please, no interest to consult. I am in every sense unfettered. To be dishonest, therefore, would be an injury to my self; and this is, to the public, the best guarantee for truth. Early on a fine spring morning, I crossed the bay of Dublin, and entered Kingston harbour a little after sunrise. The bay of Dublin has been so often described, that it needs neither description nor eulogy from me. I will only observe, that if it be deficient in some of those attractions which 1834. 7 characterise the rival bays of more southern climes, it will yield to none, in the extent and depth of its arch, or in the form and character of its mountain boundaries. When I stepped on shore at Kingston, I looked around me with the same curiosity and interest which I have been accustomed to feel on setting foot on other foreign lands; for my ignorance of Ireland might well justify me in looking upon Ire land as a foreign land, and upon her people as foreigners.

This I consider an advantage: for un less a country be so regarded, I question if the traveller will be likely to record those minute and common things, which often throw so much light upon the genius and condition of a people ; and by the omission of which, the graphic character of a work is so much impaired. It was somewhat too early in the morning to find much food for observation. I saw beggars as importunate and as needy as elsewhere — porters as loquacious, but more or derly — waiters as eloquent in urging the claims of their hotels — and a new race, the drivers of the jaunting-cars, vociferous in their recommendations of the superior advantages of their vehicles, in convenience and cheapness, over all rival and more ambitious conveyances. First impressions of Dublin are decidedly favourable.

Entering from Kingston, there is little to be seen that is unworthy the approach to a capital; and without passing through any of those wretched suburbs which stretch in many other directions, one is whirled at once into a magnificent centre, where there is an assemblage of all that usually gives evidence of wealth and taste, and of the ex istence of a great and flourishing city. A stranger arriving in Dublin in Spring, as I did, will be struck, even less by the architectural beauty of the city, than by other kinds of splendour: I allude to the indulgences of luxury, and the apparent proofs of wealth that are every where thrust upon the eye — the numerous private vehicles that fill the streets, and even blockade many of them ; the magnificent shops for the sale of articles of luxury and taste, at the doors of which, in Grafton street, I have counted upwards of twenty handsome equipages ; and in certain quarters of the city, the number of splendid houses, and "legion" of liveried servants.

But a little closer observation and more 1834. 9 minute inquiry, will in some measure correct these impressions; and will bring to mind the well-known and well-founded proverb, that " it is not all gold that glitters." And if caution be necessary in drawing conclu sions respecting the wealth of Dublin from what meets the eye, tenfold caution is required in draw ing any conclusion respecting the condition of Ire land, from even the real prosperity of Dublin. I saw comparatively few shops closed, comparatively few houses untenanted. No one complained of want of business: and it is a fact, that all the coachmakers were in such full employment, that no contract could be obtained for building coaches on the Dublin and Kingston railroad. But for my own part, I would rather see a lack of employment among the coachmakers, if this were a proof that Irish landlords remained on their estates, and ran jaunting-cars in place of carriages through their counties; and I would rather see a less competition for fine houses, and smaller fines paid for leases of shops, if this were a proof that there was a less in flux of country gentry into Dublin.

But this appearance of even Dublin prosperity, b 1834. 10 is somewhat deceptive. I have already hinted that " it is not all gold that glitters;" by which, I mean, that the Dublin tradesman sets up his car and 'his country-house, with a capital, that a London trades man would look upon but as a beginning for industry to work upon: and I believe it may be asserted with truth, that there is less profitable trade in Dub lin now, than was found some years ago. Dublin formerly possessed an extensive, safe, and very lucrative commission trade from both the West Indies and England; but the facilities of steam navigation are now so great, that the country deal ers throughout Ireland, who formerly made their purchases in Dublin, now pass over to England and there lay in their stocks. This may possibly be good for the public — I do not know whether it be or not, — I merely state a fact not favourable to the prosperity of Dublin.

In walking through the streets of Dublin, strange and striking contrasts are presented between gran deur and poverty. In Merion-square, St. Stephen's green, and elsewhere, the ragged wretches that are sitting on the steps, contrast strongly with the splendour of the houses and the magnificent equi- 1834. 11 pages that wait without : pass from Merion-square or Grafton-street, about three o'clock, into what is called the Liberty, and you might easily fancy yourself in another and distant part of Europe. I was extremely struck, the first time I visited the outskirts of the city in the direction of the Phœnix-park, with the strong resemblances to the population of Spanish towns, which the pauper population of Dublin presented. I saw the same rags, and apparent indolence — the result of a want of employment, and a low state of moral feeling : boys with bare heads and feet, lying on the pavement, whose potato had only to be converted into a melon or a bit of wheaten bread, to make them fit subjects for Murillo ; and houses and cottages in a half-ruined state, with paneless windows or no windows at all.

I was also struck with the small number of provision-shops. In London every fifth or sixth shop is a bacon and cheese-shop. In Dublin, luxuries of a different kind offer their temptations. What would be the use of opening a bacon shop, where the lower orders, who are elsewhere the chief purchasers of bacon, cannot afford to eat bacon, and live upon potatos ? 1834. As I have mentioned the lower orders in Dublin, I may add, that the house in which I lived in Kil dare-street, being exactly opposite to the Royal Dublin Society, which was then exhibiting a cattle show, I was very favourably situated for observing, among the crowd collected, some of those little traits which throw light upon character and condition. I remarked in particular, the great eagerness of every one to get a little employment, and earn a penny or two. 1 observed another less equivocal proof of low condition.

After the cattle had been fed, the half-eaten turnips became the perquisite of the crowd of ragged boys and girls without. Many and fierce were the scrambles for these precious relics ; and a half-gnawed turnip, when once secured, was guarded with the most vigilant jealousy, and was lent for a mouthful to another longing tatterde malion, as much apparently as an act of extraor dinary favour, as if the root had been a pine-apple. Yet these mouthfuls were freely given ; and I have seen, that where two boys contended who should take charge of a gentleman's horse, the boy who obtained the preference and got the penny or twopence, divided it with his rival. These were 1834. 13 pleasing traits; and were indicative of that generosity of character which displays itself in so many kindly shapes ; but which is perhaps also in some degree the parent of that improvidence, to which the evils of absenteeism are partly to be ascribed.

There can be no doubt that this trait in national character — improvidence, allied with a love of ostentation — has greatly swelled the lists of absentees, and helps in no inconsiderable degree, to keep up the deceptive appearance of Dublin wealth. With few exceptions, a Dublin tradesman who has realized 10,000/., or perhaps a greatly less sum, is above his business, sets up his jaunting-car, becomes the possessor of a villa, and entertains company. Osten tation, too, is displayed in the most singular things. I have counted twenty-seven hackney-coaches and sixteen cars, in the funeral procession of a person in the humbler walks of life : and the passion for display on the part of the deceased's relatives, seemed to have been communicated to his guests, for the carriages were all thrown open ; and from the gaiety of the dresses, one might have easily mistaken the cavalcade for a procession of wedding guests.

Many of my readers have seen this — it 1834. 14 may be seen any day. But as it struck me, who had never seen it before, as singular, it may be worth telling to others. Dublin, for its size, is a handsomer city than London. Sackville-street will compare with any street in Europe; Merion-square and St. Stephen's green surpass in extent any of the squares in the British metropolis. There are points of view in Dublin, embracing the principal streets, the quays (for Dublin has quays), and some of the finest public edifices, more striking I think than any that are to be found in London : and although the Irish capital can boast of no St. Pauls, yet, in the architectural beauty of some of her public buildings, she has just reason for pride. I need but name the Custom-house ; and the Bank of Ireland, with its magnificent and yet classically chaste colonnades, in proof of this assertion.

The inhabitants of Dublin are justly proud of their Phœnix-park. Neither in extent, nor in natural beauty, will any of the London parks bear the slightest comparison with it. It was here that, for the first time, I saw those magnificent thorn trees, which I afterwards found so constant an 1834. 15 adorner of every gentleman's park, and which, even by the highways, greatly outvie the thorns of our English lanes. The Phœnix-park is of enormous extent — said, and I believe truly, to contain nearly three thousand English acres. Like Greenwich-park, it has its mounts, and its fine single trees, and its shady avenues ; but these are more like the avenues of the bois de Boulogne ; and besides all this, it has its valleys, and ravines, and extensive groves. In fact, the Phœnix-park, both in extent, and in diversity of surface, is superior to any public park, promenade, prater, or prado, be longing to any European city that I know.

The access, however, is bad. On one side, it is approached through a bad suburb ; and by any way, it is distant and dusty. That it should be the latter, surprised me ; for surely, where tliere are so many unemployed poor, and such abundance of water, the access to this great resort, ought to be deficient in no advantage which labour could secure. The Zoological-gardens have lately been con structed on an eligible part of the Phœnix-park ; and when I visited Dublin, were quite a fashionable lounge. As much as 30/. per day, were taken from visitors by the sixpenny entrance fee. 1834. 16 Notwithstanding the fascination of Dublin so ciety, my anxiety to commence my journey increased ; for Dublin is not Ireland — and it was Ireland I had come to see. Some of the most interesting among the public institutions, par ticularly the Bank, and Trinity College, and the neighbouring Catholic College of Maynooth, I resolved to delay visiting until my return to Dublin.