Visit to Alexandria, Damascus, and Jerusalem; during the successful campaign of Ibrahim Pasha

Front matter

VISIT TO ALEXANDRIA, <$*• , sculp J'uh fy faundtss A- OcUy, Lnn/ion. 1836. si,//,tf>vnt u. sketch, mad* on, the spot fyJJionomi Erg.* VISIT TO ALEXANDRIA, DAMASCUS, AND JERUSALEM, DURING THE SUCCESSFUL CAMPAIGN OF IBRAHIM PASHA. BY EDWARD HOGG, M.D. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET. 1835. LONDON : 1B0TS0N AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. CONTENTS TO VOLUME THE FIRST. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. Welcoire opportunity of visiting the East — Great political changes now in progress in Oriental countries — Security of travellers in all the territories possessed by Mohammed Ali — Utility of observing the present condition and productive capability of eastern states — Declension of Ottoman power, and evident design of Russia to enlarge her boundaries — Present feeling of Christian and Moslem population — Expediency of aiding the progress of civilisation by supporting Mohammed Ali — Such an alliance productive of mutual benefit . . . Page 1 A VI CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Commencement of narrative — Departure from Naples — Capri — Description of Sapphire Grot — Stromboli — Messina — Ancient Theatre of Taormina — Catania — Interruption of journey to Syracuse — Familiarity of Sicilian servants — Antiquities of Syracuse— Voyage to Malta . . . 16

Chapter II

Arrival at Malta — La Pieta — Beautiful villa called Sa Maison — Amusing rocking-scene — Singular fungus found at Gozo — Garden at St. Antonio — Japan medlar — Highland regiment — Characteristic anecdote — Lady Georgiana Wolff— General appearance of Malta —Valetta— The Maltese— Beverley's Hotel . 48

Chapter III

Embark for Alexandria — Unsafe cargo — Inconvenient accommodation, and irksome monotony, incident to sea voyages — Hazardous exposure — Consequent suffering — Appearance of Candia — Wearisome calm — Hypochondriacal reflections — Storm — Subsequent CONTENTS. VII serenity— Remarkable rocks on the coast of Lybia — Port of Alexandria supposed to be blockaded — Pilot and health officers — Impediment to landing — Pic turesque view on shore — Alexandria — Locanda delle Tre Ancore ..... 68

Chapter IV

Okellas and bazaars of Alexandria — Singular groups in the streets — Population — Cleopatra's Needles — Moslem fete — Female costume — Pompey's Pillar — The new Canal — Lake Mareotis — Tasteful decorations observed at a ball— Turkish bath — Almes — Violin with one string — Egyptian fogs . 94

Chapter V

Ball on board the Madagascar frigate — Protestant English chapel and school — Presentation to the Pasha— Evening prayer in the ante-room — Unceremonious reception — The Pasha's courteous manner — His advice to assume the Turkish dress in Syria- Witticism of the Pasha— He relates an anecdote— The Pasha's opinion of the affairs of Greece, and prediction relative to the new king Otho — His com- CONTENTS. municative disposition — Termination of audience — Description of the Pasha— Ceremony of his quitting the palace . . . . .118

Chapter VI

Sociability in Alexandria — Egyptian politics — Syrian governments always unquiet — More easily controlled by the contiguous Pasha than by the distant Sultan — Bravery of Ibrahim Pasha, and Superiority of Arab Troops— Egyptian Fleet — Arabs capable of becoming good Sailors — Ancient Alexandria — Modern Fortifications — Undignified appearance of captive Pasha of Acre — Causes of quarrel between the Viceroy and Abdallah Pasha — Ingratitude of Pasha of Acre — Egyptian Bulletin after the Assault of Acre — Magnanimous Reception of the Captive — Extensive Influence of European Public Opinion . . 138

Chapter VII

The Ancient Necropolis of Alexandria — Difficulty of exploring the Catacombs — Quarantine Regulations established in Egypt — Moharrem Bey's Garden — Female Cavalcade — Visit of an English Lady to the Hareem— Activity at the Arsenal— Passage to Syria CONTENTS. IX engaged in an English Schooner — Oriental Policy and arbitrary Proceedings of Mohammed Ali — Excessive Imposts in Egypt — Kindness experienced at Alexan dria — Eve of Departure . . .169

Chapter VIII

Embark for Syria — Land at Tripoly — Military preparing to join Ibrahim Pasha at Homs — Capuchin Convent — The British Consul — Interview with the Governor — French Religious Enthusiast — Generalissimo of the Sacred Forces at the Approaching Millennium — Historical Notices of Tripoly — Commercial Capability — Egyptian occupation favourable to Christian Inhabitants — Curious Interior of House — Arrival of the Alfred Frigate — Embarrassing Intelligence of the prevalence of Plague in Palestine. 189

Chapter IX

Deceptions practised by Muleteers— Curious scene in the street— Quit Tripoly with a picturesque Caravan—Mount Lebanon— Convents of Antoura and St. George — Halt at Noon — Visited by the Son of X CONTENTS. a Maronite Sheick — Miserable Church of Khemi Taboory — Toilsome travelling on rugged mountain roads — Sleep at the Village of Hadeed — Deceived by the falsehood of Guides — The Cedars and the Village of Eden — Many of the inequalities of Le banon clothed with Cedars — Frightful and danger ous descent — Arrive in the secluded Valley of Liamoony . , . .217

Chapter X

Ruined Temple, in a deep valley near a Lake — Probably the celebrated Temple of Aphaca — Cross the Bekaa to Balbec — Temples of Balbec converted into a Fortress by the Moslems — Quarters at the Serai — The three large Temples — The form of the largest that of a Pantheon — Small circular Temple — Balbec taken by the Arabs — Previous flourishing condition — Subsequently pillaged by Timoor . ... 241

Chapter XI

Description of the largest of the Temples at Balbec Superb Temple believed to have been dedicated to the Sun— Beautiful portal, and elegant decorations CONTENTS. XI of the interior — The Greek Convent — Striking Cir cular Edifice, perhaps a Cenotaph — Ruined and deserted Town of Balbec — Proceed to Damascus over An ti. Lebanon . . . 262

Chapter XII

The Road to Sergoia — A crowd of gazing Inhabitants — Civility of a Sheick — Invitation to dine at his House — Proceed to Zibdany — Concourse of Invalids — Afflicted Parent — Distribution of Medicines — Summoned to the Hareem — Female Patients — Natural Timidity — Dinner at the Sheick's — Beautiful Environs of Zibdany— Journey resumed — An ancient Necropolis . . . . 284

Chapter XIII

Arrival at Zook — Ancient Remains — Site of Abila — Lodge at the House of a Sheick — Appearance of the Village — The River Barrada — Zibeeb made from Grapes — Leave Zook for Damascus — Pass the Bridge of Dhemmar — First view of Damascus from the Kobbet el Nazzar — Beauty of the prospect heightened by contrast — Aspect of the City — Course of the Barrada through the arid plain . . 299 Notes ERRATA. VOL. I. Page 24, Hne ir,/or Brelagne, read Bretagna. 32 _ 5, for del, read dell. 41 — 12, for Dyonisius, read Dionysius 105, in the note, for peculier, read pecuiia 108, line 11, for feathery, read their feathe 120 — 6, for but, read while. VISIT TO ALEXANDRIA, Sfc. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. Welcome opportunity of visiting the East — Great political changes now in progress in Oriental countries — Security of travellers in all the territories possessed by Mohammed Ali — Utility of observing the present condition and productive capability of eastern states — Declension of Ottoman power, and evident design of Russia to enlarge her boundaries — Present feeling of Christian and Moslem population — Expediency of aiding the progress of civilisation by supporting Mohammed Ali — Such an alliance productive of mutual benefit.

In an age so prolific of travels and of books, when almost every corner of the world has been dili gently explored, it seems necessary to assign a VOL. I. B INTRODUCTORY. reason why extracts from letters intended for the entertainment of a few personal friends, and transcripts from a diary kept merely for private satisfaction, should now be presented to the notice of the public. Communications thus fa miliar, although less calculated to interest the general reader than to contribute to the amuse ment of partial friends, may possibly possess sufficient variety to recommend them to some portion of public attention. Desirous to propitiate the favourable opinion of those who may take the trouble of perusing these pages, the author assumes the permission of introducing himself to the reader as be longing to a numerous class of individuals, that, unencumbered with claims to distinction, contentedly float upon the surface of society.

Having reached the stationary point when a man may be allowed to consider himself as neither young nor old, — after some years of successful profes sional occupation in England, he was induced to repair the inroads made by laborious exertion DESIRE TO VISIT THE EAST. 3 on a constitution never robust, by seeking the milder climate of Italy ; and Naples has finally afforded him an agreeable retreat Little anxious for the accumulation of this world's goods, and coveting only the esteem of a few chosen friends, he would have had no induce ment to quit that happy state of privacy, which is his natural sphere, if an opportunity had not unexpectedly presented itself of accompanying an intelligent friend to the East — a journey which promised to realize his long-cherished wish to ascertain the present state of countries so pre eminently interesting as Syria and Palestine, and to investigate the proofs of early civilisation still existing in the stupendous monuments of Egypt and Nubia.

Without making any pretension to deep antiqua rian research, or possessing any great disposition to enter largely into political speculations, the writer of the following sheets attentively examined the various ancient remains which so continually pre sent themselves in the countries he passed through, b VALUED CORRESPONDENT. and carefully sought such information relative to the modern state of these countries, as the most competent persons with whom he happened to meet could supply. The observations thus made, and the intelligence thus obtained, together with the ordinary occurrences of the day, were regu larly inserted in his note-book ; and from time to time, as his progress was interrupted by una voidable delays, these notices were transcribed, and, as opportunities offered, were forwarded to distant friends.

One of the most highly-valued of these cor respondents, well known to the literary world by his antiquarian and topographical researches in Greece, and by his splendid delineations of Pompeii ;* in whom extensive information, and matured judgment, are combined with kindliness of disposition and readiness to impart know ledge, — having suggested that any recent observa tion, however slight, of the great political changes * To these Sir William Gell has recently added, " Topography of Rome and its Vicinity." LIBERALITY OF THE PASHA. now going forward in the East — and of these no human sagacity can foresee the consequences — might be acceptable to the public ; in deference to his suggestion, these observations have been committed to the press, although without any desire on the part of the writer to shelter himself, by this declaration, from whatever censure their defective execution may deserve.

It is hardly necessary to remark, that in passing hastily through a widely-extended region, consisting of territories differing essentially in climate, soil, and productions, and inhabited by people as different in their origin, customs, and interests, a traveller cannot be supposed to have found all the opportunities he might desire of in vestigating their various political and commercial relations ; but the facilities afforded in Syria, by the liberal policy of Mohammed Ali, its present ruler, having been far greater than those allowed to previous travellers, some new facts may have been observed, or the means of forming new and advantageous connexions perceived, DISCOMFORTS OF SEA VOYAGE. that may, perhaps, not be deemed altogether unworthy of public consideration. Some of the incidents hereafter related, illus trative merely of that morbidly irritable state of mind which is the natural consequence of severe bodily suffering, when aggravated by the restraint w-hich the insufficient accommodation of an inconvenient vessel must necessarily impose, may per haps be considered as trite and puerile ; but as an invariable rule had been established of marking every day by some of its ordinary events, and as painful apprehensions, personal discomforts, and trivial occurrences, are the only varieties that chequer the monotony of a tedious sea voyage, they insensibly found their way into the following correspondence; and, in order to pre serve the continuity of the narrative, it has been thought expedient to retain them here.

That the perusal of the subsequent pages may prove as efficient to the reader, as their composition did to the writer, in dissipating the dulness of an occasional weary hour, — for such must SUGGESTION TO TRAVELLERS. 7 occur in the journey of life, though, perhaps, with less frequency than they did in the shorter one here attempted to be described, is his most fervent wish. Should this object be accomplished, as no inordinate expectation of literary distinction has been entertained, he will be satisfied with the award of having contributed to the general amusement of the public without pre suming that he has added very materially to its previous stores of knowledge. He does not, how ever, disclaim the hope of being useful to future travellers, by inciting them to a more careful in vestigation of the actual state, and of the pro ductive capabilities, of these once flourishing regions; for, influenced by the usual course of their preparatory studies, they have too often confined their attention to the more attractive subjects of history and antiquities, without, per haps, noting the gradations by which the seats of early civilization have been reduced to the lowest point of degradation and misery by the rapacity of despotic rulers, and the consequent apathy of impoverished subjects.

POLITICAL CHANGES. The important changes which have lately taken place, and are still rapidly proceeding, in the political condition of Egypt, with the proba bility that this long-neglected kingdom may once more resume its place among civilized nations, must, at this moment, give additional interest to any authentic information respecting its ruler or inhabitants, particularly when the almost incre dible fact is stated, that so little aware was the British government, last year,* of the relative strength of the Sultan and his powerful vassal, or of the probable issue of the contest between them, that this great political movement, the natural result of the commencement of oriental reform, was considered to be nothing more than the ordinary rebellion of a refractory pasha, which would be effectually suppressed before the arrival of the newly-appointed English ambas sador at Constantinople.

It requires no great political sagacity to pre dict, from the lately assumed aspect of the affairs * Lord Ponsonby left Naples for Constantinople in 1833. CHRISTIANS DESIRE RELIEF. 9 of the north, that the waning crescent rapidly approaches the termination of its course; and who that has witnessed the desolating oppression, the ruinous extortion, and the revolting atrocities, that, to the disgrace of humanity, have so long marked its progress, can deplore its extinction ? In almost every part of the East, both Christians and Moslems unite in bitter execration against their insatiable oppressors ; and the ancient pre judices of both have been so far weakened by the miseries which perpetual spoliations have in flicted, that they would joyfully receive, and heartily assist, any foreign power, that with sufficient strength to afford them secure protection, held out the prospect of a more just and lenient administration.

The Christians, with whom it is more easy for Europeans to hold unrestrained communication, implore, as a boon from Heaven, the intervention of some Christian state to de liver them from the galling yoke that bows them to the earth. They are not ignorant of the long sustained, but successful efforts of the Greeks to b DECLINE OF OTTOMAN POWER. emancipate themselves from four centuries of de basing vassalage ; nor of the demoralizing effect of this long and cruel bondage, which ought to excite compassion, but more frequently provokes invective. They are not blind to the impotent decrepitude of the once powerful Ottoman em pire, nor insensible to the growing greatness, and encroaching policy, of the sovereign of Egypt. They are quite aware that the inhospitable deserts which surround them are considered to be the ramparts of India, and that Russia casts a long ing look towards these cheerless wastes.

They well know that the attention of the allied sovereigns of Europe is fully engaged in main taining the internal tranquillity of their several states. They plainly perceive that the tottering fabric of Turkish dominion is sustained only by the avowed protection of Russia — that she has never relinquished the hope of extending her empire, and is ready, whenever it may suit her policy, to plant her standard in the fertile fields of Asia; — nor are they unconscious that MOHAMMEDANS OPPRESSED. by the professors of the same faith they would be acknowledged as fellow-subjects, and adopted as fellow-citizens, instead of being stigmatized as infidels and despised as slaves. The Moslem population, always more fanatic, and still less enlightened, than those they so grievously oppress, untrained to habits of in dustry, and so accustomed to exercise an unre lated and rapacious authority over all who differ from them in religious belief, that this assumed right has become almost an article of their faith, now sensibly feel the want of those ample resources which the enterprise and activity of their Greek rayahs once supplied to their insatiable cupidity.

Perceiving, by the decisive steps taken by Mohammed Ali to protect his Christian subjects from arbitrary exaction, that systematic pillage can no longer supply the heavy impo sitions with which they are themselves burdened, and aware of the large portion of civil and re ligious liberty wisely accorded to such Moham medan territories as have already been incorpo- POLICY OF AIDING THE PASHA. rated with Christian empires, they would joyfully hail any political change calculated to secure the possession of that scanty pittance, which, when obtained without exertion, is sufficient to satisfy their limited desires. Would that the sober voice of reason could make its way to those who rule the destinies of England ! — that her statesmen could be aroused from their perilous apathy, and that their vigilant attention to her future interests could be awakened ere the war trump shall proclaim that a new irrup tion from the frozen regions of the north has again obtained possession of the garden of the world !

Then would they feel the necessity of changing, without delay, their feeble policy, and perceive the wisdom of aiding, with the whole weight of British influence, the extensive, but hitherto ill-directed efforts of the ruler of Egypt for the improvement of his states. We can now no longer be deceived by the shallow fallacy that the semblance of independence secured to the Turkish empire by her potent neighbour is in- MUTUAL ADVANTAGES. tended to be permanent. Either the boundaries that confine the great northern leviathan must be enlarged, and that in a direction hazardous to the stability of our own oriental possessions, or the new empire wrhich has so suddenly grown up, and is so rapidly advancing in Egypt, must, by close alliance, and efficient support, be rendered an effectual barrier against future encroachment.

The new and valuable territory which the pasha of Egypt has lately acquired, and the additional resources which have been thus added to a country previously rich in productive capability, make it highly probable that he will not long submit to his present nominal depend ence upon his humbled adversary. By an alli ance founded on the solid basis of mutual ad vantage, important benefits would accrue both to Egypt and to England. The ancient commercial road to India might again be securely traversed, and a new bulwark effectually established against future intrusion. The support of an enlightened government like that of Great Britain might in- EXTENSION OF CIVILISATION. duce the pasha to consult his own interest by adopting a more liberal policy towards his lan guishing fellahs, whose prosperity and happi ness, although so intimately connected with his own, seem to have hitherto formed no part of his calculations.

By the judicious exercise of European influence, he might be incited to ex tend the blessings of civilisation, the founda tions of which are already laid in his own coun try, over Syria and Palestine; the former presenting a rich prospect of valuable produce, the latter consecrated by a thousand interest ing associations. Under a more equitable and liberal government, population would again ad vance and habits of industry be established, the boundaries of human happiness would be en larged, and new wants created, that would open a wide field for commercial enterprise. The preponderating influence of the pasha in Arabia might eventually lead to some gleams of light penetrating that dark and infatuated country ; — facilities offered by the Nile, might be secured COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES. 15 for establishing a beneficial intercourse with the centre of Africa ; — the slow but sure progress of civilisation might easily be directed to Abys sinia, already prepared to receive it ; — and thus some hope might be rationally entertained of the gradual abolition of those inhuman practices that now disgrace these unhappy countries, while at the same time, their gold, ivory, and other precious commodities might, with equal advantage, be exchanged for the merchandise of Europe.

Chapter I

Commencement of narrative — Departure from Naples — Capri — Description of Sapphire Grot — Stromboli — Messina — Ancient Theatre of Taormina — Catania — Interruption of journey to Syracuse — Familiarity of Sicilian servants — Antiquities of Syracuse — Voyage to Malta. If I am to give you, in the course of my correspondence, a faithful account of the different places we may visit, and a narrative of the various adventures that may befall us by sea and by land, you must allow me to insert from my diary the ordinary events and common-place incidents that usually mark a traveller's progress ; and when objects occur that seem to merit a more extended notice, I will do my best to satisfy DEPARTURE FROM NAPLES. your antiquarian curiosity, at any suitable place where f/e may happen to be detained.

Without further preface, then, I proceed to inform you, that on the day I took leave of you at Naples, (April 27th, 1832,) my companion and myself embarked, at half-past four in the afternoon, in the ship Giorgio, Captain Costa, bound to Messina. We set sail at five, and at half-past six passed Capri with a full and favour ing breeze. As we approached this beautiful island, the declining sun showed its irregular and picturesque outline to great advantage, and threw the rocky inequalities of its sides into fine masses of light and shade. That part of its sin gularly-formed summit which faces Sorrento, frowned upon us in deep shadow as we passed, reminding us, that from this tremendous preci pice Tiberius caused those who had unhappily incurred his displeasure, to be thrown into the sea. It is impossible to pass this romantic island without recollecting some of the memorable ENTRANCE TO SAPPHIRE GROT. circumstances connected with its history.

In the year 1808, it was gallantly attacked, and suc cessfully wrested by Murat from the hands of the English. The situation of one of the villas of Tiberius on its most elevated summit, is marked by massive walls and spacious vaults, and the sites of other edifices,- probably, imperial resi dences, are elsewhere indicated by extensive foundations, and widely-spread fragments. But the most attractive object, and one which you have not yet visited, is the Sapphire Grot, at the northern extremity of the island, which, having only been recently re-discovered, of course excites considerable attention. The sole entrance to this remarkable cavern is a small semicircular opening, close to the edge of the water, at the base of an almost perpendicular cliff, which here dips from a great height into the sea.

In form it closely resembles the mouth of an oven, which it exceeds but Uttle in size ; yet, immediately within, it enlarges into a grotto of considerable dimensions, with an arched roof that INTERIOR OF SAPPHIRE GROT. spans Uke a dome a placid expanse of water, of the deepest azure. A signal being made, a long, narrow boat, specially constructed to convey visitors within the cave, pushes from the shore ; but the entrance can only be effected when the weather is perfectly calm, and at the favourable moment of the reflux of the waves. The visitor now places himself below the edge of the boat, which two guides adroitly and speedily conduct through the narrow passage. He then finds himself in a spacious, circular cavern, into which the direct rays of Ught only penetrate through the aperture by which he has entered ; and this not being more than four feet either in height or breadth, the space within would be a mere gloomy and obscure recess, were it not distinguished from all other known caverns by the peculiarity which has conferred upon it the name of the Sapphire Grot.

To understand this it must be remembered, that the entrance to this singular cave is to be considered as the apex of a subaqueous arch, springing on one SINGULAR EFFECT OF LIGHT. side from the bottom of the sea, and on the other from a ledge of rock near the surface of the water. Thus the greater part of the light within is derived from the rays that pass through the blue waters of the surrounding ocean. By this denser medium some of these rays are intercepted and absorbed, while the remainder refracted by passing through the water, and then reflected upwards from the bottom, diffuse a rich blue colour over the roof and sides of this beautiful grotto, which is finely varied in appearance by the direct rays that pass through the en trance, as they fall on the undulating surface of the waves within.

The singular effect of light, thus passing through an aqueous medium, is here further illustrated by the shadow of the boat being thrown upon the roof of the cave, as well as by an experiment, easily made, of closing entirely the entrance of the grot, which increases the in tensity of the rich cerulean tints that so conspicuously distinguish it. That portion of the cave ANCIENT ENTRANCE. which is filled by the sea does not possess a width of perhaps more than seventy or eighty feet, yet the imagination is so powerfully aided by the blue aerial perspective, that it requires a positive exertion of the reasoning faculty to form a correct estimate of its real dimensions. At the farthest extremity of the cavern, a wide and shelving portion of rock affords a con venient landing-place, beyond which are some vestiges of steps.

These appear to lead to the termination of a subterraneous entrance from the island, now obstructed with rubbish, and hitherto unexplored. It cannot be supposed that the present opening to this remarkable grotto escaped the notice of the ancients, or that the imperial voluptuary, who sought with such avidity new sources of enjoyment, neglected, during his long residence here, the advantages presented by a cavern, apparently designed by nature to contribute to royal luxury. This favoured spot may well be imagined, during the SINGULAR ROCKS. oppressive heat of summer, to have been often the joyous scene of imperial revels, — its sides, perhaps, gemmed with the varied spoils of the depths beneath, and its retired recesses converted into coral bowers. Here a mimic Venus, in her pearly car, drawn by dolphins, and surrounded by Cupids and Graces, may have floated luxuri ously on the azure waves ; and Neptune, wielding his trident, may here have assembled his tritons, and other fabled monsters of the deep, to dis sipate, by their antic gambols, the listless lan guor of the imperial recluse.

But enough. As we proceeded on our course, we passed three insulated, rocky projections, that, Uke the Needles, near the Isle of Wight, seem to start perpendicularly from the bosom of the ocean. These natural ramparts here assume the appear ance of ancient constructions, the central mass resembling the ruin of a gothic gable, pierced with a gigantic gateway. The approach of night at length concealed the romantic beauties of this ever-varying coast. The gale, however, STROMBOLI. still favoured our progress, although it now began to blow with sickening freshness. On the 28th, the wind was still fair, and at daybreak several of the Lipari Islands were in sight. At two in the afternoon, we passed close to StromboU, a huge, ill-shaped cone, rising directly out of the sea. The sailors had observed little fire on its summit during the night, and we now perceived only a small column of smoke; but from the lava which continually rolls down the side of the mountain, a Ught vapour issued similar to that arising from the recent stream that covers the side of Vesuvius.

The form of this island, as seen from the sea, is that of a flattened cone, with a disproportioned base. Its height has been estimated at two thousand feet, and its circumference is said to be about nine miles. By six in the evening, we came within sight of the far-famed rock of Scylla, and soon after wards perceived that we were involved in the turbulent eddies of Charybdis. Although the MESSINA. dangers of this powerful current were, doubtless, much exaggerated by the ancients, yet our captain assured us, that by incautious steering a small vessel would still inevitably be stranded on the coast, or dashed against the rock, and that even a large one would be inconveniently whirled about by its irresistible force. We passed the Faro of Messina at seven ; but the wind dying quite away, we were unable to gain the harbour before sunset, and consequently were not permitted to land till the following morning.