Two Years in the Jungle. The experiences of a hunter and naturalist in India, Ceylon, the Malay Peninsula and Borneo

Front matter

{From a sketch by the Author.) THE END OP OUR TIGEB HUNT. TWO YEARS IN THE JUNGLE THE EXPERIENCES OF A HUNTER AND NATURALIST IN INDIA, CEYLON, THE MALAY PENINSULA AND BOKNEO BY WILLIAM T. HOENADAX CHIEF TAXIDERMIST, U. S. NATIONAL MUSEUM LATE COLLECTOR FOR WARD'S NATURAL SCIENCE ESTABLISHMENT WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS " There is a pleasure In the pathless woods, There Is a rapture in the lonely shore."— Byron NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS Copvhight, 1SS5. BY CHABLES SCitliWEE'S SONS TROWS PRINTING AND eOOKBINDING COMPANY, NEW YORX. Tto MY GOOD WIPE JOSEPHINE WHOSE PRESENCE BOTH WHEN SEEN AND UNSEEN- HAS EVEB BEEN THE SUNSHINE OP MY LIFE THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

Preface

. As a matter of simple justice to myself, I must inform the reader that the journey of which this book is a record was one of action rather than observation, and opportunities for study were few and far between. Owing to the circumstances under which the trip was carried out, all my waking hours were occupied in a ceaseless warfare for specimens, and my only regret comes when I think what "it might have been," for me at least, had I not been obhged to shoot, preserve, care for and pack up nearly every specimen with my own hands. From first to last I had no other assistance than such as could be rendered by ignorant and maladroit native ser vants. Even in the preparation of these pages the demon of Work has still pursued me, and the task has been accomplished only by the aid of " midnight oil," when wearied by the labors of the day.

What follows is offered merely as a faithful pen-picture of what may be seen and done by almost any healthy young man in two years of ups and downs in the East Indies. He, at least, who loves the green woods and rippling waters, and has felt the mystic spell of life in " a vast wilderness," will appre ciate the record of my experiences. I love nature and all her works, but one day in an East Indian jungle, among strange men and beasts, is worth more to me than a year among dry and musty " study specimens." The green forest, the airy mountain, the plain, the river, and the sea-shore are to me a perpetual delight, and the pursuit, for a good purpose, of the living creatures that inhabit them adds an element of buoyant excitement to the enjoyment of natural scenery, which at best can be but feebly portrayed in words. VI

PREFACE.

. In the belief that the average reader is more interested in facts of a general nature than in minutiae, I have avoided going into natural history details, but have endeavored instead to indicate the most striking features of the countries visited, and the more note worthy animals and men encountered in their homes. As the pages which follow will presently reveal, this is in every sense a personal — I might even say a first-personal — narrative, in which the reader is taken as a friend into the author's confidence while they make the trip together. The writer addresses, not the public, in general, but The Reader, individually. To him I would say, confidentially of course, that as a duty to him, in the preparation of these pages I have labored earnestly to avoid all fonns of exaggeration, and to represent everything with photographic accuracy as to facts and figures.

It is easy to overestimate and color too highly, and I have fought hard to keep out of my story every elephant and monkey who had no right to a place in it. I consider it the highest duty of a traveller to avoid carelessness in the statement of facts. A narrative of a journey is not a novel, in which the writer may put down as seen any thing that " might have been seen." To a great many kind friends in the East Indies my thanks are due for aid, comfort, and advice ; but I will not consign their names and the acknowledgment of my gratitude to the obscurity of a preface, and each will be found in its own place in the story. But for the friends I made as I went along, and the kindly interest they manifested in my welfare and happiness, I would have felt hke a rogue elephant — solitary, uncared for, and even spurned by the other members of the social herd.

Curiously enough, nearly all my East Indian friends were Eng lish, and to my American reader I would say, when you meet an Enghsh traveller treat him kindly for my sake. W. T. H. Washington, D. C. CONTENTS. PARTI. INDIA. CHAPTEE I. THE JOURNEY TO INDIA. FAGE Objects of the Trip. — Boycotted in Ireland. — The Challenger Collections. — The Liverpool Museum. — The British Museum. — From Paris to Rome. — Art versus Nature. — Collecting at Naples. — The Zoological Station. — Alexandria. — The Nile Delta. — Cairo. — A Picnic to the Petrified Forest. — The Author rides a Camel. — Egyptian Fossils. — Through the Suez Canal. — A Day at Jeddah. — Pilgrims and Strangers. — The Tomb of Eve. — The Red Sea. — A Pleasant Voyage. — Bombay 1-20 CHAPTEE II BOMBAY. Duty on Outfit— A Model (!) Consul.— The Servant Question.— The Grand Market. — Flowers. — Fruit. — Fish.— Live Birds. — The First Specimen. — Street Cars. — An Interesting Crowd. — Vehicles. — The Bullock Hackery. — The Homeliest Animal Alive. — The Victoria and Albert Museum.— Soft-hearted Hindoos.— The Hospital for Animals.— A Strange Sight.— A Good Servant.— Departure for Allahabad 21-29 CHAPTEE IH.

FROM BOMBAY TO ETAWAH. Physical Aspect of the Country.— Scarcity of Animal Life.— A Barren Region. — Major Ross.— A Boat Trip up the Jumna.— A Mile of CONTENTS. PAGE Bathers.— Dead Hindoo.— Plenty of Birds but no Gavials.— Return and go to Etawah. — The Dak Bungalow. — Two Specimens the First Day. — My Boat and Crew.— A Day in the Bazaar. — An Instance of Caste 30-38 CHAPTEE IV. GAVIAL SHOOTING ON THE JUMNA. Afloat on the Jumna. — Character of the River. — Difficulties of Crocodile Shooting. — The Fatal Spot. — Prospects.— The Fun Begins. — Defeat through Poor Shooting and Native Timidity. — An Harangue. — Swimming after a Wounded Gavial. — Death of " Number One." — Another still Larger.— How to Skeletonize a Gavial. — Mode of Skinning Described. — Birds of Prey. — Crowds of Spectators.— Gavial Eggs. — A Model Crew. — Plucky Encounter with a Wounded Gavial. — A Struggle at Close Quarters.— Our Plan of Operations. — A Good Rifle. — Killing Gavials at Long Range 39-43 CHAPTEE V. THE GANGETIC CROCODILE.

A Jolly Life. — Native Tenderness for the Gavial. — Eating the Flesh. — The Jumna swarming with Gavials. — A " Mass Meeting." — Loss of an Enormous Specimen. — Maximum size Attained. — The Gavial's Place in Nature. — Habits aud Characters of the Species. — General Observations on the Crocodilians. — Number of Eggs Deposited. — The Gavial not a Man-eater. — A Ticklish Reptile. — Vocal Powers 50-57 CHAPTEE VI ANIMAL LIFE ALONG THE JUMNA. Boating on the Jumna. — A Long Prayer. — The Saras Crane. — Queer Antics. — The Jabiru. — Nests of the Scavenger Vulture. — Peacocks. — A Jungle Cat Surprised. — The Jackals' Serenade. — Turtles. — The Gangetic Porpoise. — Native Villages. — The People. — Female Ugliness. — Friends and Foes. — A Native Funeral. —Cremation a mere Form. — An Adjutant Shot. — Goodbye to the River. 58-68 CHAPTEE VII.

RAVTNE DEER AND BLACK BUCK HUNTING. An Invitation. — Aspect of the Country. — Major Ross's Camp. — A Luxurious Establishment. — The Jumna Ravines. — The "Ravine CONTENTS. IX PAGE Deer."— A Day's Sport— Fifteen Gazelles and a Nil-Gai.— The Sasin Antelope or " Black Buck." — Animal Pests — Another Hunt with Major Ross.— Interesting Sport. — A Narrow Escape. — A Stern Chase at Mid-day. — Eight Antelopes Gatlfcred in. — A Holiday at Agra. — The Taj Mehal, of course. — Taj-struck Travellers. — The Trees of the North-West Provinces 09-82 CHAPTEE VIII. BENARES, CALCUTTA, AND MADRAS. The Monkey Temple. — Sacred Animals. — The Fakir. — The Hindoos as Beast Worshippers. — A Beastial Religion. — From Benares to Calcutta. — The Hot Season. — "Punkahs and Tatties." — Departure for Madras. — The Hoogly River. — Sailor Anatomists. — The Hoogly Channel. — Madras. — A Seaport without a Harbor. — Two Years of Drought. — A Famine-stricken City. — A Paternal Government. — The Madras Museum. — Another Language and another Servant 83-92 CHAPTEE IX.

THE NEILGHERRY HILLS. The "Blue Mountains." — A Natural Eden. — Physical Aspect. — The Coonoor Pass. —Beauty and Grandeur. — Climbing up to Paradise. — Ootacamund. — Products of the Hills. — The Worst Hotel in India. — A Hunt in the "Delectable Mountains." — Above the Clouds. — The Todas. — A Remarkable People. — Their Negative Qualities. — Phenomenal Laziness. — The "Paulaul" and the "Paulchi." — Physique of the Todas. — Dress. — Polyandry, or Plurality of Husbands. — Betrothal, Marriage, and Divorce. — Infanticide.— The Toda Hut.— The Mund.— The Toda Buffalo.— Little Game but Splendid Scenery. — A Cloud Scene. — An Empty Bag, but no Regrets 93-10-1 CHAPTEE X. THE WAINAAD FOREST. A Hunting Trip to Mudumallay. —Monkey Shooting.— The Karkhana. —The Meanest Natives in India.— Obstacles.— An Old Hypocrite. —Record of One Day's Hunting.— Expert Trackers.— Bison.— A Long Chase.— Death of a Sambur Stag.— A Herd of Wild Elephants. — An Attack by an Amateur, on Foot and Alone.— Close Quarters. — Failure. — Lost in the Jungle. — A Sambur Killed by a X CONTENTS.

PAOE Tiger.— A Bad Predicament. — Deliverance by a Lucky Guess. — The Author's Status as a Shikaree.— Death of a Bull Bison. — Skinning Under Difficulties.— Instinct of Self-preservation in Monkeys. — Jungle Farer. — Native Cussedness again. — Return to Ooty.— A Good Samaritan.— A Model (!) Physician.— Mr. and Mrs. Dawson. — Departure 105-118 CHAPTEE XL THE ANIMALLAI HILLS. A Hunter's Paradise. — Getting there. — The Bullock Bandy and its Driver. — His Discourse. — Physical Aspect of the Animallais. — Toonacadavoo. — A Glorious Prospect. — Mr. Theobald. — An Efficient Officer and Faithful Friend. — Character of the Forest. — Seasons.— Protection of the Elephants. — A Permit Obtained. — My Mulcer Hunting Gang. — The Karders. — More Ornamental than Useful ' 119-129 CHAPTEE XII. ELEPHANT HUNTING.

"A Lodge in a Vast Wilderness." — Hut-building with Bamboos. — Elysian at Last — Character of Elephant Hunting. — Grand but Dangerous Sport. — Indian versus African Methods. — The Skull. — Difficulty of Hitting the Brain. — Cranial Fracture Impossible. — The Fatal Shots. — Physique of the Elephant. — Tracking up a Herd. — Welcome Sounds. — Surrounded by Giants. — The Attack. — Stampede and Flight of the Herd.— Great Abundance of Large Game. — The Charge of a Dangerous Animal. — Fooling around a Baby Elephant. — Charge of an Infuriated Female.- — A Grand but " Scarey " Sight— Repelling the Charge 130-141 CHAPTEE XIII. MONKEYS, BEARS, AND ELEPHANTS. The Black Langur. — Monkey Shooting. — A Startling Cry. — Absurd Encounter with Three Bears. — A Stern Chase. — Death of Number Two. — A Woful " Slip 'twixt cup and lip." — Surprise Number Two. — The Old Bear Dies. — Habits of the Species. — A Typical Elephant Hunt. — Hunters Hunted. — Wonderful Manœuvring of the Elephants. — A Stealthy Retreat. — A Double-barrelled Attack. — " Shavoogan !

" — Panic-stricken Hunters. — Failures, Fever, and Scarcity of Food 142-151 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTEE XIV. A TIGER HUNT. PAGB Tigers. —The Game-killer. — The Cattle-lifter.— The Man-eater.— Reign of Terror. —Eight Hundred Victims Annually. —Modes of Tiger-hunting.— Howdah Shooting. — Machan Shooting.— Shooting on Foot— An Impromptu Tiger-hunt. —The Trail.— A Light " Battery."— The Game Overhauled.— A Good Shot— Death of a Superb "Game-killer."— Dimensions and Weight. — A Proud Moment.— Struggle to Preserve the Skin 152-160 CHAPTEE XV SKELETONIZING AN ELEPHANT. Mischievous Elephants.— Chase of a Large Herd. — Death of a Tusker. — Forbidden Ground. — A Secret. — The Mulcer's Oath. — A Change of Base. — Skeletonizing an Elephant in Sixteen Hours. — Cacheing the Bones. — The Traces of our Guilt. — Moral Aspect of the Affair. —The Spotted Deer.— A Pretty Picture. — The Indian Elk or Sambur. — Bad Case of Protective Coloring. — Serenaded by Sambur. — The "Brain-fever bird." — Tree Rats. — The Muntjac. — Delicious Venison.— The Neilgherry Goat.— Wild Hogs 161-173 CHAPTEE XVI.

THE SECOND YEAR OF THE MADRAS FAMINE. Sickness in the Jungle. — Temporary Absence from the Hills. — A Starving Waif.— The Spectre of Famine. — Famine-stricken Natives. — Cause and Effects of the Famine. — The Relief Camp at Animallai. — A Review of the Hungry. — The Government and the Famine. — " Money Doles." — Mortality. — " Be ye Warmed and Fed ! "—End of the Drought 174-181 CHAPTEE XVII. THE POETRY OF FOREST LIFE.— BISON SHOOTING Return to the Hills. — Benighted in the Jungle. — Native Meanness. — Doraysawmy, the " Gentleman's God." — A Jewel of a Servant. — Prospects. — Fever again. — Bass' Pale Ale. — Glorious Weather. — Fine Forest. — The Poetry of Life in the Forest. — Our Mode of Hunting. — A Bison Hunt. — Death of a Solitary Bull. — A Noble Animal. — Characters and Habits of the Species. — Another Hunt.

CONTENTS. PAGE — Four Bison in Five Shots. — The Bison as an Antagonist. — Mr. Morgan's Encounter with a Wounded Bull. — A Close Shave. — A Typical English Sportsman and his Battery. — How to Preserve a Bison-skin for Mounting 182-193 CHAPTEE XVIII. A MEMORABLE ELEPHANT HUNT. A Run of 111 luck. — The Climax. — Strained Relation with an Official. —The Turn ofthe Tide.— My Last Card. — An Official Favor. — Permission to Kill a Tusker. — Move to Sungam. — A Memorable Elephant Hunt. — A Bad Shot. — Dangerous Ground. — A Bold Advance and a Disorderly Retreat — Mulcer Philosophy. — A Long and Tiresome Chase. — Desperate Character of the Jungle. — Luck at Last. — The Attack. — An Anxious Moment. — Victory. — The Dead Tusker. — A Sell on the Mulcers. — Skinning a Nine-anda-half Foot Elephant. — The Modus Operandi. — Camp on the Field of Battle. — Surrounded by Wild Beasts. — Getting up a Scare. — Burning Bamboo. — A Tiger about. — An Accident.. — Back to Sungam. — A Mulcer Row. — Fever again. — Mutiny in Camp 194-207 CHAPTEE XIX.

END OF THE ANIMALLAI CAMPAIGN. Balky Mulcers. — Work on the Elephant again. — Wild Beast versus Tramp and Burglar. — My Mulcers go on a Strike. — Playing a Lone Hand. — Bringing the Men to Terms. — A Bloodless but Complete Victory. — Another Tiger about. — Treatment of the Elephant Skin. — The March out to Sungam. — The Season. — The Last of my Hunting Gang. — Descent from the Hills in a Storm. — Paradise Lost. — Fever Again. — Good by to the Animallais. — My Collection of Mammals 208-217 CHAPTEE XX. THE INDIAN ELEPHANT. Geographical Distribution. — Indian and African Species Compared. The Ceylon Elephant. — The Capture of Wild Elephants. — Breeding in Captivity. — Gestation of the Elephant. — Duration of Life. — Growth and Height. — Size of Tusks. — Classes of Elephants. Uses. — Table of Values. — Intellectual Capacity and Temper.

Elephants at Work in a Timber Forest. —Feeding Elephants.— Cost of Keeping. — "Must," or Temporary Insanity — "Rogue" Elephants. — How an Elephant Kills a Man. — Swimming Power of Elephants 218-234 CONTENTS. XIII

Part II Ceylon

CHAPTEE XXI. COLOMBO. PAGE Madras to Colombo.—Farewell to Jungle Fever.—The Queen of the Tropics. — The Singhalese. — The Native Shops. — Exorbitant Duty on Methylated Spirits.—An Appeal, and its Result.—Public Opinion.—A Protest.—Legislation for the "Odd Man."—The Sea View Hotel.—Natives as Collectors A Morning's Work. — How to Clean and Preserve Echini.—The Gatherings of one Day —The Fish Market.—The Colombo Museum and its Director. — Native Taxidermists.—Need of European Preparateurs in the East Indies.—An Obliging Firm 23.5-250 CHAPTEE XXII. THE NORTHERN PROVINCE. Trip to Jaffna. —The Paumben Passage. —Jaffna. —Coral Gathering. — The Beauties of Living Coral. —Shallow Waters. —A Harvest of Cartilaginous Fishes. —Rhinobati. —Large Rays. —A Handsome Shark. —A Rare and Curious Fish. —Rhampltobatis ancylostomus Described. —Sea Turtles. —Questionable Value of Native Help. — Start for Mullaitivu. —Jaffna to Point Pedro. —The most Northern Point of Ceylon. —Native Cussedness again. —The Slowest Sailing- Craft on Record 251-262 CHAPTEE XXIII.

MULLAITIVU. An Unwholesome Village Site. — Dirt and Discomfort. — Crocodile Hunting.—Cannibalism and Leprosy among Crocodiles.—Flying Foxes.—A Big Haul.—A Heronry.—Hot Jungle.—Death of Mr. Leys by Sunstroke.—Mammals.—A Live Manis and its Doings. — On Short Rations.—Exasperating Failure to Receive Supplies. — Tropical Hunger.—A Gloomy Proposition Strangely Refuted.—A Delicious Beverage.—Journal of a Trip into the Interior.—Mon key-shooting.—Character of the Jungle.—Joseph Emerson.— Elephant Skeletons.—Self-buried Frogs.—Two Hundred Mon keys in Four Hours.—Their Fleetness in the Tree-tops.—Deer.— Overland Journey to Jaffna.—Elephant Pass.—Return to Colombo 263-280 CONTENTS. XIV CHAPTEE XXIV. KANDY AND POINT DE GALLE. PAGK The Interior of Ceylon.—A Run up to Kandy.—Native Plows and Plowing.—The Mountains.—Kandy.—An Overpraised Town.— Summary of Ceylon Collections.—The Royal Mail Coach.—Gov ernmental Eccentricities.—The Ride to Galle.—Charming Coast Scenery.—A Church Episode.—Bentotte.—Point de Galle.—Nep tune's Garden.—Ceylon Gems.—Classification of Dealers.—Study of a Scoundrel, in Black and White.—Diamond cut Diamond.— Farewell to Ceylon 281-290

Part III. The Malay Peninsula

CHAPTEE XXV. SINGAPORE. New Harbor. —A Back-door Entrance. —Mangrove Swamps and Malay Houses. —Street Scenes.—The Sailors' Quarter. —Well-planned City. —Chinese Shops and Houses. —Populace. —Social Life. — The Curse of the East Indies. —The American Consul. —Two American Travellers. —A Model Millionaire. —The Climate of Singapore. —Market for Live Animals. —A Visit to Mr. Whampoa's Villa. —Curios. —A Tigerish Orang-Utan. —Curiosities in Gardening 291-300 CHAPTEE XXVI. ON THE SELANGORE SEA-COAST. Malacca. —Selangore. —Kiang River and Town. —A Kindred Spirit. — Visit to Jerom on the Sea-coast to Collect.—Bamboo Creek.—A Filthy Chinese Village.—A Foul Stream.—Crocodiles.—Catching a Twelve-foot Crocodile with Hook and Line.—The "Alir."—A Harvest of Saurians again. —Crocodiles in the Sea.—Birds. — Shrimp-eating Monkeys.—An Iguana.—The Slowest Race on Record.—Remarkable Fishes.—Catching Periophthalmi.—An Ad venture in Mud.—Various Vertebrates.—Centipedes and their Doings.—Doctoring a Ray-stung Fisherman.—Malay Character. —Return to Kiang 301-313 CONTENTS.

XV CHAPTEE XXVII. HUNTING IN THE INTERIOR OF SELANGORE. PAGE A Trip to the Interior. — Road to Kwala Lumpor. — The Town. — "The Captain Cheena." — A Bonanza in Champagne. — Sungei Batu. — A Foolish Feat. — Our House. — Feasting on Durians. — A Jacoon House and Family. — Resemblance to the Dyaks.— An Impromptu Elephant Hunt. — Attack in a Swamp. — Death of a Young Tusker. — Plague of Flies.— Another Elephant Hunt. — A Close Shave and a Ludicrous Performance. — Discovery and Exploration of Three Fine Caves.. — Cathedral Cave. — Mammals. — Visit to a Tin Mine. — Chinese versus Malays. — Political Condition of Selangore. — Statistics. — Snakes. — Good-by to Kiang: — Mr. Robert Campbell, my Good Genius 314-332

Part IV. Borneo

CHAPTEE XXVIII. SARAWAK, PAST AND PRESENT. Geographical Position and Area of Borneo. — Explorations. — From Singapore to Sarawak. — The Finest City in Borneo. — Historical Sketch of Sarawak Territory. — Sir James Brooke. — Anarchy and Oppression. — -Cession of the Territory. — Order out of Chaos. — Evolution of a Model Government. — A Wise aud Good Rajah. — Justice in Sarawak and the United States. — Present Prosperity. — A Lesson for Political Economists 333-346 CHAPTEE XXIX. FROM SARAWAK TO THE SADONG. Hunting near Kuching. — Crocodiles in the Sarawak.— A Dangerous Pest. — War of Extermination. — From Sarawak to the Sadong. — The Simujan Village. — A Hunt for an Orang-utan. — In the Swamp. — On the Mountain. — Valuable Information at Last 347-353 CONTENTS. XVI CHAPTEE XXX. AMONG THE ORANG-UTANS.

PAGE Start up the Simujan. — Boat-roofs. — Among the Head-hunters. — A Dyak Longhouse. — Monkeys. — Fire-flies. — A Night on a Tropical River.— Mias' Nests. — " Mias, Tuan."— Death of the First Mias. — Another Killed. — Screw Pines. — " Three Mias in one Day ! " — Laborious Work. — Swamp Wading. — Padang Lake. — Cordial Reception at a Dyak House 354-365 CHAPTEE XXXI DOINGS IN THE ORANG-UTAN COUNTRY. Preparation of Orang Skins and Skeletons. — Return down the Simujan. — Three Orangs Killed. — A Troublesome Infant. — Accessions from Native Hunters. — Seven Orangs in One Day. — Miscellaneous Gatherings. — A Battle-scarred Hero. — The Bore in the Sadong. — Another Trip up the Simujan. — Doctoring an Injured Hunter. — The Dyak at his Worst. — Death of a Huge Orang, "the Rajah." — Dimensions. — A Rival Specimen. — Two Captives 366-377 CHAPTEE XXXII.

COLLECTING AROUND SIMUJAN. Native Hunters. — Two Orangs Killed at Simujan. — Nest-making by an Orang. — A Harvest of Mammals. — A Deputation of Dyaks from the Sibuyau. — An Inviting Invitation. — The Rise and Progress of the Baby Orang. — An Interesting Pet. — Humanlike Habits and Emotions.— A Tuba-fishing Picnic. — Third Journey up the Simujan. — Snake Curry. — A Voyage in the Dark 378-389 CHAPTEE XXXIII. COLLECTING AT PADANG LAKE. A Hunt on Gunong Popook.— A Lost Hunter. — A Handsome Dyak. — A Reception by Torchlight. — More Orang-utans. — How an Orang Sleeps. — Proboscis Monkeys. — Living versus Stuffed Specimens. — A Remarkable Nose. — Luckless Gibbon-hunting.— Luckless Wild-hog Hunting.— Mud and Thorns. —Picturesque Vegetation.— Fresh-water Turtles and Fishes. — Return to the Sadong 390-397 CONTENTS.

XVII CHAPTEE XXXIV. FACTS ABOUT THE ORANG-UTAN. PAGE Distribution of the Orang-utan. — Its Affinities. — External Appearance. — Remarkable Facial Ornaments?). — Color of Skin. — Hair. — Eyes.— Mode of Fighting.— Pugnacity.— Food.— Unsocial Habits. — Young at Birth. — Nesting Habits. — Locomotive Powers. — Inability to Walk or Stand Erect. — Height of Adults.— General Measurements. — Two Species Recognized. — Characters of Simia Wurmbii and Satyrus. — Individual Peculiarities 398-408 CHAPTEE XXXV. A MONTH WITH THE DYAKS. Journey to the Sibuyau. — The River. — A Malodorous Village. — Barriers. — Proboscis Monkeys and Flying Lemurs. — Head of Canoe Navigation. — Swamp-wading. — Our Journey's End. — A Lodge in a Vast Wilderness. — Fine Hunting-grounds. — Source of the River. — Hunting Gibbons. — Lively Sport. — Gibbons' Remarkable Mode of Progress. — A Mias. — A Successful Hunt. — Affection and Courage of a Male Gibbon. — Helplessness of the Baby Orang in Water. — A Live Tarsier. — More Gibbons Shot. — Argus Pheasants. — Dyak Mode of Snaring. — A Deadly Pig-trap. — A Shiftless Village. — A Magnificent Bird. — Curious Rodent. — Visit to Lanchang. — A Village of Head-hunters. — Trophies of the Chase. — A Fine Dyak Specimen 409-425 CHAPTEE XXXVI A MONTH WITH THE DYAKS— Concluded.

Leeches. — Model Making. — Poor Shooting-Boots. — Bad Ammunition. — A Big Buttress. — Wild Honey. — Human-like Emotions of the Baby Orang. — My Guides go on a Strike. — Flying Gibbons. — Boils and Butterflies. —Bear and Muntjac. — Delicious Venison. — Lee Tiac's Omen Bird. — Dyak Shiftlessness in Trade. — Gathering Gutta. — Lee Tiac Climbs a Tapong Tree. — A Perilous Feat. — Ah Kee gets Lost. — A Torch-light Search in the Swamp. — Another Bear. — Return to the Sadong. — The Last Orang. — The Nipa Palm. — A dangerous Squall. — Nesting Habits of the Crocodile. — Farewell to the Sadong 426-442 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XXXVII. THE ABORIGINES OF BORNEO.

FAGK Civilization an Exterminator of Savage Races. — Stability of the Dyaks. —The Survival of the Fittest.— The Typical Dyak.— Four Great Tribes.— The Kyans.— Their Strength and Distribution.— Tribe Misnamed Milanau. — General Characteristics.— Mechanical Skill. — Modes of Warfare. — Aggressiveness. — Cannibalism of certain Sub-tribes. — Tattooing. — Ideas of a Future State. — Human Sacrifices. — Houses. — The Hill Dyaks.— Distribution.— Takers of Head Trophies. — Fighting Qualities. — Physique. — Dress and Ornaments. — A Curious Corset. — Weapons. — Houses. — The Pangah. — Social Life. — Strict Morality without Religion. — Prohibition of Consanguineous Marriages. — Marriage Ceremony. — Honesty. — Disposal of the Dead. — A Relic of Hindooism. — Ideas of a Supreme Being and Future State. — The Mongol Dyaks. —Remains of Former Chinese Influence. — An Advanced Tribe. — Position. — Physique. — Dress. — Houses. — Skill in Agriculture. — Implements of Husbandry. — Independent but Peaceful. — The Muruts. — Dress and Ornaments. — Houses. — The Kadyans. — Comparative Estimate of the Four Great Dyak Tribes 443-458 CHAPTEE XXXVIII THE SEA DYAKS.

Habitat. — Number. — Sub-tribes. — Their Physique. — Sea Dyak Women. — Their Dress and Ornaments. — The Men. — Their Weapons. — War Boats. — Fighting Qualities. — Head-taking and Head-hunting. — A Mania for Murder. — Houses and House-life of the Sea Dyaks. — Communal Harmony. — Daily Occupations. — ■ Amusements. — Music-making. — Feasts. — G entlemanly Drunkenness. — High Social Position of Women. — The Doctrine of Fair Play. — Strict Observance ofthe Rights of Property. — A Race of Debt-Payers. — Morality without Religion. — Infrequency of Crime. — Dyak Diseases. — Mode of Burial. — The Future of the Race. — Can Christianity Benefit the Dyaks ? 459-475 CHAPTEE XXXIX. A PLEASURE TRIP UP THE SARAWAK. The Firefly.— Mr. A. H. Everett.— The Chinese Gold-washings at Bau. — Caves and Crevices near Paku. — Walk to Tegora. — The Cinnabar Mines of the Borneo Company.— Romantic Boat Ride CONTENTS.

XIX PAGE down the Staat. — Trip to Serambo Mountain. — Dyak Bridges. — Village of Peninjau. — The Rajah's Cottage. — Magnificent View. — Return to Kuching. — Fare well to Borneo. — Singapore once more. — End of the Expedition. — Retrospect. — Conclusion 476-489

Appendix

. Outfit for a Collector 491 Recipe for Making Arsenical Soap 492 How to Skin a Quadruped, and Prepare the Skin for Mounting 492 Loss of Life in British India by Wild Beasts and Serpents 493 Statistical Tables of Human Lives, Cattle, and Dangerous Animals Destroyed 494 Measurements of some Indian Mammals 495 Index . the manis, bolled up. LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. The End of oub Tigeb Hunt Frontispiece. The Manis, BOLLED up To face page xxi Among the Gavials, " 44 BlBD-NESTING ON THE JUMNA, " 61 «c The Neilghebbies, and a Paet of Ootacamund, . " 96 A Toda Mund, " 102 (C Gbound-plan of a Toda Hut, " 102 Mb. Theobald and his Fobest Bungalow, . . " 123 Peba Veba, " 127 My Camp at Tellicul, " 131 tt Section of an Elephant's Skull, etc., ..." 135 tt Chabge of a Female Elephant, " 141 Tigeb-hunting on Elephant-back, . . . .

" 154 tt Death of a Tuskeb, " 163 Hebd of Axis Deeb in Bamboo Fobest, . . . " 167 The Neilghebby Goat, and the Muntjac, . . " 172 The Indian Bison, ob Gaub, " 188 Skinning an Elephant, " 203 A Koomebiah Elephant, and a Meebga, . . . " 226 Colombo fbom the Clock Toweb, looking Southwest, . " 238 Rhampltobatis ancylostomus, 257 Good Collecting Gbound, Mullaitivu, . . . " 267 Catching a Cbocodile with Hook and Line, . . " 306 The Jumping Fish. — (Periophtlwlmus Schlosserii), . . " 309 A Jacoon House, 319 Vebtical Section of a Cave in Selangobe, . . " 327 Malay Houses on the Sabawak Riveb, . . . 338 Plan of a Dyak Long-house, " LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. EXTEBIOB OF A SEA DYAK LONG-HOUSE, . . . Tofacapage 356 Intebiob of a Sea Dyak Long-house, . . . " 357 Wading afteb a wounded Obang-utan, . . . " 361 Female Orang-utan, Infant and Nest, . . .

" 368 A Fight in the Tree-tops, " 375 Head of Cynogale Bennettii, " 380 Embbyo of Crocodilus porosus " 380 The " Old Man," " 381 The Thbead Fish " 386 Stegostoma tigrinum, «* 387 Lvciocephcdus pulcher, '« 387 The Goubami, " 389 Pobtbait of a Pboboscis Monkey, .... " 395 The Gibbon's Modes of Pbogbession, .... " 415 The Tabsieb. — (Tarsius spectrum), " 420 Buttbesses of a Tapang Tbee «« 428 Dyak Weapons, Utensils, etc., «' 443 Kyan Wabeiob, «• 447 Gboup of Sea Dyaks, " 459 A Sea Dyak. (Sebibas Clan), «' 460 A Sea Dyak Belle, «< 4(5X Dyak Hakp, «< 4(59 Dyaks using the Biliong, oe Axeadz, ..." 484 MAPS. Bbitish India, M end of volume. Bobneo, Ethnographic and Genebal, . . . Opposite page WITH RIFLE AND KNIFE.