Travels in the Ionian Isles, Albania, Thessaly, Macedonia, ... during the years 1812 and 1813

Preface

. 1 offer the narrative of my travels in Greece with much diffidence to the Public, apprehensive that it may be thought that this country has already been sufficiently explored and described. The world has recently received much valuable information from the works of Mr. Douglas and Mr. Hobhouse, respecting the charact^D:i^&%jstoms of the modern Greeks. I have car^t^^bided the repetition of what they have told, and have refrained from all formal dissertation on the subjects of which they have treated ; but I have interwoven with my narrative various anecdotes and observations, which will, I hope, further illustrate the subject, and add some information relative to the present state of literature and cultivation in Greece. Had I been previously aware that Major Leake intended to publish his " Researches in Greece," I should scarcely have ventured to commence my own work ; but having begun the narrative, I was led to persevere, from the consideration that it re lated principally to parts of that country as yet little known or described. I think it fortunate that I had directed my views more particularly to such districts, though they may not have so many a VI

PREFACE.

. claims as others on the attention of the classical reader. The interest which the world now takes in Greece, refers not merely to ancient times, but regards also the future condition of a people who are again resuming a national character, and whom tune and political changes may again raibc to per fect independence. I shall conduct the reader through the Ionian Isles, Albania, Thessaly, and some parts of Mace donia, sketching afterwards more rapidly my route through the southern parts of Greece, and finally describing the second journey 1 made through the dominions of Ali Pasha. I have dwelt particularly on the government and extraordinary cha racter of this modern ruler of Albania, with which I had peculiar opportunities of becoming acquainted. While I have selected for description those parts of Greece which are least generally known, I have endeavoured to convey a full idea of the scenery of the country, and of whatever remains of antiquity are scattered over its surface.

I might further have enlarged on the subject of these antiquities, by citing additional authorities, and quoting dis cordant opinions ; but I have forborne such discus sions, aware that they can have little interest for the generality of readers. I have given the popu lation of the country upon the most correct information that I could collect ; and, considering that

PREFACE.

. VII the mineralogy and other parts of the natural his tory of Greece are yet only partially known, I have been anxious to obtain and to communicate information on these subjects. The results which 1 have presented may at least assist in giving a useful di rection to future observations. I had intended to have inserted in the Appendix a memoir on the principal diseases, and on the state of medicine in Greece ; but this may be placed more properly in some publication better adapted to the circulation of medical facts. A preface filled with apologies is often an acknow ledgment of faults, which a man determines to com mit. I shall not, therefore, attempt to excuse the want of a good map, by pleading the loss of my actual surveys, and of a considerable part of my journal. Whatever I have left untold will soon come before the Public from more fortunate, and more enlightened travellers than myself.

From the hands of Major Leake, and Sir W. Gell, maps may be expected far superior to any thing which I could have offered, had my papers been preserved. I shall detain the reader no longer than to as sure him, that among the many deficiencies he may find in the following pages, he will have no just cause to accuse the author of want of fidelity. Rome, 3\st October, 1814. a

PREFACE.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. In preparing for the press a second edition of these Travels, little change has been made beyond the correction of the various errors of the press, which had crept into the first edition, and which Avere rendered more numerous by my own absence from England at the time it was printed. Even had my other occupations now allowed me leisure for the purpose, I should not have felt myself entitled to make any considerable additions to the work ; being anxious, as I was in the outset, to limit my narrative, as far as possible, to a simple record of the objects I saw, and of the impressions I received. London, June 10. 1819. CONTENTS or THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAP. I. X ortugal : Residence in the Army Hospitals. — Gibraltar. — Sardinia. — Sicily. — The Lipari Isles. — Etna. — Voyage to the Ionian Isles. — Zante : Description of this Island : The City of Zante : Natural History and Commerce of the Isle : Population and Habits of Society Page 1 CHAP. II.

Modern History of the Ionian Isles. — Greek Newspapers. — Garrison at Zante. — Cephalonia : Description of the Island. — Argostoli : Antiquities : Population and State of Society. — ■ Isle of Cerigo ... 38 38 CHAP. III. Departure for Albania. — Sirocco Wind. — Ithaca : Modern State of this Island. — Vathi. — Santa Maura: Island and Town : Commerce and Antiquities . 65 CHAP. IV. Passage to Prevesa. — History of Prevesa. — Albanians. — CONTENTS. Turks. — Seraglio of Ali Pasha. — Ruins of Nicopolis. — Battle cf Actium. — Passage up the Gulf of Arta. — Salaora. — Albanian Dance. — Plains of Arta Page 93 CHAP. V. Arta. — Commerce of the Gulf. — Route to Cinque Pozzi. — Mineralogical Remarks. — Khan of Cinque Pozzi. — Tribe of Migratory Shepherds. — Approach to Ioannina ; and View of the City . . . 1 1 8 CHAP. VI.

Albania. — General Outline of this Country. — Origin and Divisions of the Albanian Tribes. — Their General History. — Sketch of the Life and Progress of Ali Pasha. — Extent of his Dominion, Military Power, and Revenues ....... 140 CHAP. VII. Great Seraglio of Ali Pasha. — First Interview with the Vizier. — Conversation. — Description of Ioannina. — Bazars. — Pavilion of the Vizier. — Mosques. — Population of the City. — Turkish and Greek Women. — Climate. — Lake of Ioannina. — History of the City. — Ruins in its Vicinity. — Observations on the Site of the Oracle of Dodona . . . . . 173 CHAP. VIII. Greek Population of Ioannina. — Their commercial Habits. — Literature. — Academies of the City. — Condi- CONTENTS. XIII tion of Society. — Greek Ladies. — Manner of Living, and Domestic Economy. — Literary Characters of Ioan nina. — Physicians. — Person and Dress of the Greeks. — Romaic Language ....

Page 213 CHAP. IX. Medical Attendance upon Ah Pasha. — General Intercourse, and Style of Conversation with him. — Further Anecdotes of his Character and Habits. — His judicial Character. — The Haram. — The Feeling towards him from different Classes of his Subjects. — Medical Attendance upon some of his Turkish Officers . . 252 CHAP. X. Preparations for a Journey into Thessaly. — BuyrouldL — Tartars. — Travelling in Turkey.- — Departure from Ioannina. — Khan of Kyra. — Valley of the River of Arta. — District of Zagora. — Metzovo. — Mineralogical Remarks. — Ascent of the Ridge of Pindus. — View from the Summit. — Geography of the Pindus Chain 289 CHAP. XI. Descent from Pindus. — Progress along the Valley of the Salympria. — Kalabaka. — Rocks and Monasteries of Meteora. — Ascent to one of the Monasteries in a Net. — Antiquity of these Rocks. — Their Mineralogical Character. — Trikala. — Zarko. — Arrival at Larissa CONTENTS.

CHAP. XII. Residence at Larissa. — The Archbishop Polycarp. — Interview with Veli Pasha. — His Character and History. — Excursion over the Plains to Tornavo. - Manufactures of Tornavo. — Description of Larissa. — General Character of Turkish Towns. — Turkish Inhabitants of Larissa . . . . . Page 369 CHAP. XIII. Greek Metropolitan Church. — Political Sentiments of the Greeks. — Character and Attainments of Velara. — Another Interview with Veli Pasha. — Remarks on the Plains round Larissa, and on the Population of Thessaly . . . . , . . . LIST OF THE PLATES. VOLUME I. Map to face the Title Page. Ioannina from the North, . . facing Page 137 Mosque of the Fortress of Ioannina . . 188 Metzovo' . . . . ... 306 Vale of the Peneus, from Meteora . . . 340 Monastery of Meteora 346 VOLUME II. Tempe . 16 Mount Ossa, from the Banks of the Peneus, at Larissa [,3 {Jj^ g' . 120 Seraglio of Suli . ..... 243 Suli Mountains from Aia-Glyky . . . 248 Castle of Argyro-Kastro .... 290 Seraglio of Tepeleni ..... 309 Doric Column at Apollonia . . . .

ERRATA. VOL. I. Page 48. line 2. from bottom, for behind read between. 75. line 4. for Phocian read Phceacian. 186. line 13. from bottom, for the read a. 201. line 11. for atlieth read _*-< the. 201. line 10. from bottom, for northern read southern. 238. line 9. from bottom, for Sophologistatos read Sojihologiotolos. 379. line 1. for apparing read appearing. VOL. II. 30. line 3. for somewhat above it, read wAicft would more nearly itecord with it. £59. line 2. from bottom, for Pargiotes read Parguinoles. 347. line 9. for Zerovina read Tzerovina. 354. last line of note, for Forest read Foresti. TRAVELS, &c. CHAP. I. PORTUGAL : RESIDENCE IN THE ARMY HOSPITALS. GIBRALTAR SARDINIA. SICILY. THE LIPARI ISLES. ETNA VOYAGE TO THE IONIAN ISLES. ZANTE: DESCRIPTION OF THIS ISLAND : THE CITY OF ZANTE : NATURAL HISTORY AND COMMERCE OF THE ISLE: POPULATION AND HABITS OF SOCIETY. 1 quitted England early in the spring of 1812, with the general design of visiting the Mediter ranean ; but making '$j^ajt previous object to pass a few months in the military hospitals of our army in the Peninsula.

With this plan I disembarked at Lisbon ; and after a short tour along those wonderful lines of fortification, within which, it might be said, that the germ of European liberty was at one time enclosed, I proceeded up the Tagus to Santarem, at this period ofthe war one of our great hospital establishments in Portugal ; the fine situation of the town, its numerous con vents, and the facilities of communication by the vol. r. B PORTUGAL. Tagus, having led to the selection of this town as a principal hospital station. The capture of Badajos had recently taken place ; and when I arrived at Santarem, the place was crowded with the wounded and sick lately sent down from the army. .At one period of my residence in Santarem, the number amounted to nearly two thousand ; who were distributed among five large convents, in the higher part of the city.

Many of these men, however, were already invalided, and waiting only for con veyance to England. To detail the medical observations I made during my stay here, would be foreign to the subject of this volume ; and the less needful, as we may expect from some of the medical men who have long served in the Peninsula, an ample account of their extensive and various practice. I cannot refrain, however, from noticing, what must interest every reader ; the singular excellence which the hospital system of the army had at this time attained. I have visited many hospitals in England, Ireland, and Scotland ; but have seen few that might compare in convenience, propriety, and good management, with those I attended while at Santarem ; none, certainly, which procured more positive comfort to the sick, or were more suc cessful in the medical practice they afforded.

It is true that the convents of Santarem were admirably adapted to this purpose ; but the regulation of the establishments depended on the zeal ofthe medical officers ; and the excellence of this regulation was PORTUGAL. 3 as creditable to them, as it was beneficial to the army and the country. * All that can lessen the afflictions of war must be grateful to the mind ; and it is among the noblest features in the character of the General to whom England and Europe are so deeply indebted, that his career of victory was one also of humanity ; and that the life of the soldier was not wantonly thrown away, either in battle or by succeeding neglect. That this is not an empty tribute of praise, will be felt by all who know the active superintendance which the Duke of Wellington exercised in every department of his army ; and in particular the attention he gave to its hospital establishments.

He was ably seconded in this by the Inspector general, Dr. Macgregor, who maintained a system of minute regularity, doubtless contributing much to the welfare of this branch of the service. From Santarem I made an excursion to Caldas, the most celebrated watering-place in Portugal. The great spring here is a sulphureous, saline chalybeate ; and thermal also, having a temperature of 93° or 94°, where it issues from the grounds. * At this time Dr. Buchan was at the head of the hospital establishment at Santarem. + The analysis of this water, which was made by Dr. Wi thering, gives three-fourths of a grain of silica in 128 ounces; in this respect affording an analogy to the Bath springs, as well as to those of Carlsbad and Brighton : the same quantity of water yields 6^ oz. measures of sulphureted hydrogen, 2£ grains of iron, 148 grains of muriate of soda, and other salts in smaller quantity. b2 PORTUGAL.

I visited the Portuguese hospital at this place ; but found it on a small scale, and at this time very indifferently conducted. Leaving Santarem, I proceeded further up the country to Abrantes, another ofthe chief hospital stations of the army ; where I resided some time with similar views. The number of cases of fever, and acute diseases, I found to be much greater here than at Santarem ; and the medical practice was proportionally more interesting and instructive. The effects of the climate, and of particular localities, in producing and modifying the progress of disease, were among the more remarkable cir cumstances which occurred to my notice in this as well as in the former place. The principal hos pital at Abrantes was not actually in the city, but formed a large and picturesque encampment on the southern bank ofthe Tagus, shaded behind by the extensive olive-groves which border on the river.

The internal regulation, amidst this assemblage of tents, was not inferior in excellence to that of the great convents at Santarem. * 1 subsequently visited, but in a more cursory way, two or three smaller hospifals at Niza, and other places on the frontier of Spain. Having fulfilled at length the medical purposes I had in view, I returned down the country to Lisbon, to * The hospitals I afterwards saw at Vittoria and Bilbao, on my return to England through Spain, though established in the midst of a rapid campaign, yet bore testimony to the same spirit of order and good regulation. GIBRALTAR. 5 prosecute my voyage thence towards the Medi terranean. A stormy passage of a week brought me to Gibraltar. Two days of this time our vessel was in the Bay of Cadiz ; and each morning and evening I listened to the heavy sound of the shells, which the French mortars were throwing into the city, from a distance of more than three miles.

It was their last effort as a besieging army ; information of the battle of Salamanca had just reached them, and but a few days elapsed before they made their final retreat from the south of Spain. The scenery of the straits of Gibraltar has scarcely had sufficient justice done to it in description. Europe and Africa vie with each other in the magnificence of the boundary they give to this extraordinary passage from an ocean to inland seas. The effect of natural grandeur is aided by various impressions, which accompany the voyager in his progress between these shores. They are viewed as the entrance to the scene of ancient empire, and as a barrier at the same time, which arrested the progress of ancient power. The changes of men and nations are suggested in rapid succession Ho the mind, as vessels are seen urging their way through this channel, which come from the people of a new world ; from islands and continents scarcely known even to the imagination of antiquity.

Every point on the surrounding shores gives the note of some event, which is consecrated to history ; and the names of St. Vinb3 GIBRALTAR. cent, Trafalgar, Tariffa, Algeziras, and Gibraltar, are among those which our own annals will convey to succeeding times. At Gibraltar I remained merely long enough to survey that marvellous machinery of fortification, which, together with the natural features of the spot, renders it one of the most remarkable places in the world. I again embarked thence in a vessel bound to Sicily ; landed for a short time amidst the lofty mountains which form the coast of Murcia* ; touched at Majorca, and passed two days at Cagli ari, the capital of Sardinia. It had been my design, when leaving England, to spend some time in this island, hitherto almost a terra incognita to the rest of Europe ; but I was prevented from executing this plan by various circumstances, which it would be needless to detail.

To the mineralogist Sardinia offers many objects of much interest ; many also to the lovers of nature, in the great mountain scenery which is spread over its surface. It is a fact not generally known, that the northern portion of this island is in part a volcanic region ; and that obsidian, pumice, and compact lavas exist in great abundance in the district of the Capo de Sassari. The specimens in the Museum at Cagliari sufficiently attest this fact ; and further shew the existence * Many of the mountains here are composed of chlorite slate, with a very contorted stratification. The circumference of the Peninsula is almost every where mountainous, supporting that great tract of table land, which forms the central provinces of Spain, with an elevation of from 1600 to 2000 feet above the the sea.

SARDINIA. 7 of much primitive country in the island, of various metallic ores, and of a formation of coal. In the subjoined note * are a few details, as well on this * Sard;nia is divided into three provinces : the Capo de Sassari in the north ; the Lugo d'Oro traversing the middle of the island ; and the Capo de Cagliari forming its southern portion. The first of these is mountainous throughout the greater part of its extent; and Ginargentino, though not yet measured, is con sidered one of the highest points in the island. The volcanic country is chiefly in the north-western part of Sardinia ; and Orsino, and other villages near Sassari, are said to be entirely built of pumice rock. The Chevalier Prunner, of the Museum at Cagliari, has written a memoir on the extinct volcanoes of the island, and speaks of seventy-two craters ; but whether he is accurate in distinguishing them, I am unable to say.

The general fact, however, is interesting, as it extends the great volcanic area of the south of Europe ; which comprizes in its circuit, Etna, Vesuvius, Sardinia, Pentelaria, and the never ceasing fires of the Lipari Isles. The Lugo d'Oro is also very mountainous : silver and lead ores have been found here, it is said, in considerable quantity. I saw an analysis of one silver ore, which yielded 70 per cent, of the metal ; but this was doubtless a select specimen. The King of Sardinia was lately led to believe, partly perhaps from the name of this dictrict, that he had gold mines in his island territory ; but analysis has put a dead blank opposite the word, in the specimens brought for examination. The Cavaliere St. Reale, who conducted these analyses, is a man of science and observation. The Capo de Cagliari, though for the most part very mountainous, yet contains extensive plains stretching between Cagliari and Oristano.

A considerable part of this district appears to be of primitive formation. The mountain of Argentu, about forty miles to the north of Cagliari, is, perhaps, the loftiest in the island ; and, as it is said to have snow upon it all the year, may be from 6 to 7000 feet in height. The pitch coal, of which I saw specimens, is said to occur in the centre of the isle, but not in large quantity. Among the other Sardinian specimens in the Museum (the collection of B 4< SARDINIA. subject, as in relation to the internal state of the country. Sardinia has been secluded, not only from the observation, but in great part from the progressive improvement of the rest of Europe ; and the traveller will find in its peasantry a wildness of garb, manner, and custom, which can scarcely be classed with the usages of civilized life.

The mini ature court of the King, which was then resident in Cagliari, had not sufficient power to collect the revenues of the country, still less to change or ameliorate the condition of the people. The recent political events have done nothing for Sardinia ; and which, however, was extremely defective), I found varieties of granite, sienite, primitive slate, marble, limestone with shells, bituminous wood, lead, copper, and silver ores, arsenical pyrites ; with very fine amethysts, opals, schorls, &c. The present population of Sardinia is about 450,000 : in 1750 it did not exceed 360,000 : but it is still capable of great increase. The island was once spoken of as one of the granaries of Rome (Cic. pro. leg. Manil.) : now the Sardinia ferax can scarcely provide subsistence for its own population.

Cagliari the capital, splendid in its situation, ill built and comfortless within, contains 25,000 people. The University is frequented by about five hun dred students, and has a library of 1 8,000 volumes. Sassari, the second city of the island, has a population of 15,000. It is worthy of remark, that more than half the land in Sardinia belongs to Spanish proprietors; having been continued to them under the treaty by which Spain resigned the island. Th<i country contains about 9,000 square miles, of which 5,200 are thus appropriated, with a population of 220,000 souls. The Marquis of Benevente alone is said to possess a district of more than 1600 square miles. A voluminous work, entitled " Rifiorimento de Sardegna," was published in 1776 by F. Gemelli, a professor in the College of Sassari : it contains much information respecting the internal state of the island.

SICILY. an island, equal to Sicily in extent, still remains a solitary spot on the face of Europe ; its most frequent visitors the pirates of the Barbary coast. I landed in Sicily at Trapani, the antient-Dre panum ; a spot that has been consecrated to posterity by the genius of Virgil. Thence I tra velled to Palermo, the splendid and luxurious capital of the island ; a city almost unequalled in the beauty of its situation, but peopled by a nobility degraded in morals, and by inferior classes who participate in the corruption, and exhibit all the vices of an oppressed and servile nation. The accounts given by modern travellers of the present state of Sicily are not greatly exaggerated. No where is the contrast between nature and man so strongly marked : nowhere is the picture more striking of the effects of a bad provincial government upon the condition and habits of the people.

At this time the ministry, of which the Prince Belmonte was a principal member, were making endeavours to give to the country a new consti tution, framed on the English model. The at tempt for a time gained upon the popular feeling, but obstacles crowded around on every side to obstruct its progress. The pernicious influence still exerted by the Queen ; the vicious intrigues of the aristocracy ; the conjoint resolution of the nobles, and clergy not to suffer encroachment on their privileges ; and the feebleness ofthe Chamber of Commons ; — all conspired to impede reform, and perpetuate abuse. Melancholy as is the fact, LIPARI ISLES. yet it must be allowed, that there were not in Sicily, at this time, a sufficient number of incor rupt men to fill the offices under the new consti tution ; nor was the state of education such as to hold out more than a remote prospect of improve ment.

Talents and quickness are far from want ing to the Sicilians ; but these have hitherto been nurtured only under slavery, and rarely devoted but to the purposes of corruption. I am willing to believe, however, that this agitation of reform may eventually hasten its progress, whatever be the future political fortune of the island. From Palermo, I proceeded along the northern coast of Sicily to Milazzo, and thence passed over to the Lipari Isles. The survey of their very extraordinary volcanic phenomena occupied several days, and afforded me the more satisfaction, from their analogy to many facts I had before observed in the great volcanic region of Iceland. Inde pendently, however, of such sources of comparison, the Isles of Lipari must be interesting to every naturalist ; and they afford a scenery at once sin gular and sublime, in the perpetual fires which issue from the lofty cone of Stromboli ; in the vast crater of Volcano, inferior only to that of Etna in magnitude; and in the mountains of pumice, the streams of obsidian, and the selenitic rocks, which occur in the island properly called by the name of Lipari.

A few ofthe observations which I made in these isles, I have briefly stated in the note LIPARI ISLES. below*. After reading Mr. Tennant's paper in the Geological Transactions, on the native boracic * Lipari, the largest of these isles, though not now the scene of active volcanic phenomena, yet is more interesting in its pro ducts than either Stromboli or Volcano. An enumeration of these would include different varieties of compact lava, obsidian, pumice, volcanic tuffa, sulphur, ashes or scoriæ ; and several which may be called secondary, as selenite, sulphate of alumine, sulphuret of iron, &c. The tuffa forms several of the hills in the interior of the isle, the height of which has been greatly ex aggerated by Dolomieu and Spallanzani. The lavas, which chiefly appear on the coast, are remarkable for their general tendencv to the vitreous character, and are often penetrated by veins of obsidian or pumice, as may be well seen in the great mass of rock on which stands the castle of Lipari. — Whatever it may be in Hungary, or at Andernach, obsidian is certainly a volcanic product in Lipari ; occurring with other parts of the volcanic formation, in beds, veins, streams, and fragments, and exhibiting every stage of transition both into compact lava and pumice.

These facts are very strikingly seen in a great stream of this sub stance, which terminates in a cliff upon the shore, to the south of the pumice mountain of Campo Bianco ; some parts of which exhibit the perfectly black, conchoidal obsidian ; others, different degrees of vitrification, passing into pumice and semitrified lava. — The tuffa of Lipari contains much obsidian, mixed with scoriæ, and other volcanic fragments. The pumice of Lipari is a singular feature in the mineralogy of the island : it occurs every where in the tuffa, and appears also in the vitrified lavas ; but its principal accumulation is in the northern part of the isle, where it appears to form entire hills of great height and extent, and in quantity sufficient for the per petual supply ofthe world. The Campo Bianco, which is upwards of 600 feet in height, is the most extraordinary of these hills, exhibiting a series of alternate ridges and hollows, some hundred in number, formed by the deep fissures in the pumice, which are extremely regular, inclined at an angle of about 40°, and varying from 10 to 40 or 50 feet in depth.

There can be little question that this pumice is a volcanic product, and connected with the origin of the obsidian, which is so abundant in the same vicinity ; ETNA acid, found m connection with some specimens from Lipari, it was very interesting to me to dis cover this substance in large quantity within the crater of Volcano ; forming a white feathery covering to the sulphur, which is deposited from sublimation in various parts of this great cavity. Returning to Milazzo, I pursued my route to Messina, and "thence along the magnificent coast formed by the primitive Neptunian mountains, and by the volcanic region of Etna, to Catania ; a place eminent among the cities of Sicily for extent and beauty, and yet more so, from the comparative ex cellence of its institutions and society; interesting too from its relation to the history of that vast vol cano, which rises from its wide base on these shores, but it may be more doubtful whether its beds have successively flowecV from a crater, as is supposed by Dolomieu.

The temperature of the hot springs, which form the baths of Lipari, I found to be 138°. The Isle of Volcano is chiefly interesting from its great crater, which forms an inverted cone, about a mile in circumference, and nearly 500 feet in depth ; — from a stream of obsidian and semi vitrified lava, which descends from near the lips ofthe crater to the sea : — from the columnar appearances in some compact lavas, which form an escarpement on the coast ; — and especially from the production of boracic acid, together with the sulphur, which everywhere lines the interior of the crater. I descended, though with much difficulty, to the very bottom of this vast hollow, and procured thence some fine specimens of the different productions of the volcano. I found the peninsula of Milazzo, just opposite the Lipari Isles, to be composed of gneiss, with some marbles and appearances of granite veins.