Cities of the World: their origin, progress ... Illustrated

Preface

. Although few books have been published in which readers have been enabled to take, as it were, a bird's-eye view of the world's famous cities — and this may perhaps be regarded as the distinctive feature of the present work — it would of course be superfluous to lay claim to much originality in these pages. If, however, there be little novelty in the subject, it is hoped there will be found variety in the aspects and media through which it has been observed — old facts put in new lights, and new lights seen from old standpoints. It has been the desire of the writer to tell the history of each great city in as concise a form as possible, and to connect the leading events of history with existing monuments in art and architecture and other memorials. To this end he has endeavoured to take his readers on " excursions of thought/' and help them to explore the chief Cities of tbe World as they were and as they are.

While recording, in most instances, the results of personal experiences, he has not hesitated to avail himself of the valuable assistance of writers of all times and all countries, and has laid under contribution whatever information he could collect whicii should be likely to make the city under review stand out with sharp distinctness before the mind's eye of the reader. The chapters on those cities of the United States and Canada which have been selected for description are from the pen of Mr. M. F. Sweetsee, of ---Boston, Mass. CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction 1 CONSTANTINOPLE. The Beautiful City— Byzantium— Foundation of Constantinople— Galata Bridge, and those who pass over it— Galata — Pera— The Dancing Dervishes— Hamals— Stamboul— The Seven Hills— The Old Seraglio— St. Sophia— The Fourteen Imperial Mosques— Islamism— The Hippodrome— The Burnt Column— In the Bazaars— The Tower of the Seraskiarat— The Fanar, or Greek Quarter— Balata, the Jews' Quarter— Eyub, the Sacred Suburb— Street Scenes of Constantinople— Dogs— Scutari— Muslim Cemeteries— The Howling Dervishes— The Bosphorus— Therapia and Buyukder6— Legends— The Cyanean Rock9 28 NEW YOEK.

As Others see it— Manhattan Island— The Constituents of the City— A Hundred Religions— An Italian Sea-Rover— The Dutch Discoverers— New Amsterdam— The English Conquest— The Americans take their Own— The Rebellion—The Harbour— The Narrows— Fortifications— The Inner Islands— Scenic Charms— The Piers and Wharves —Trade of the City— The Battery— Immigrant Hordes— Bowling-Green— Broadway— Trinity Church— Wall Street— The Treasury— Custom House— Commercial Rivalries— Post-Offlce— St. Paul's— City Hall— Court House— East-River Bridge— Broadway again- Five Points— The Bowery— A Dutch Captain-General— The Fire Brigade -The Literary Quarter— Union Square— Tammany— Madison Square— The Clubs— Restaurants and Theatres— The National Academy—Fifth Avenue— The Jeunesse Dorte— Merchant Princes— Fashionable ChHrches— The Cathedral— The Great Synagogue— Columbia College— Central Park— The Museums— Cleopatra's Needle— Lenox Library— Heavenly Charities— Normal College— The Militia— Brooklyn— Prospect Park— Greenwood Cemetery— Blackwell's Island- Hell Gate— Suburban Joys— Long Branch— Neversink and Elberon— Coney Island, Brighton and Manhattan Beaches 56 ALEXANDRIA.

First View of Alexandria— Landing — A Vision of the Past— A City of Contrasts— Alexandria as it was— Foundation of the City— Division into Quarters— The Pharos— The Museum— The Library— The Serapeum— Rapid Historical Sketch— Alexandria under the Ptolemies and Cæsars— The Mohammedan Conquest— Alexandrian School of Theology— Alexandria as it is— The New Harbour— Bazaars— Street Life— Cleopatra's Needles— Pompey's Pillar— A Mohammedan Cemetery and Village— At the Well— The Catacombs— Mahmoodieh Canal— Xicopolis and its Memories 104 VENICE. Origin— The First Doge— Venice as it is— The Piazza San Marco— The Church of St. Mark— Removal of the Body of the Saint— Interior of the Church— The Bronze Horses— Barbarossa and the Pope— The Palace of the Doges —The Councils of Venice— The Council of Ten— The Story of Marino Falieri-of Francesco Foscari— of the Count of Carmagnola-The Lion's Mouth— The Golden Book— The Hall of the Grand Council— The Bridge of Sighs— Again in the Piazza— The Campanile— " Between the Columns "—The Arsenal and the Arsenalotti— Wedding the Adriatic-On the Grand Canal— The Rialto-Art and Artists— The Churches of Venice-The Brides of Venice— Scenes and Incidents of the Past VI CONTENTS.

AMSTERDAM. page Characteristics of Holland— Its Origin-Its Disadvantages— The Waterstaat and its Work-Enemies— Summary of Political History— Site of Amsterdam— The Harbour— History of the City-Commerce— The Great Canals— The Dam- The Palace— The Exchange and its Legend— The Churches of Amsterdam— Monument to De Ruyter— Religious Toleration— The Pilgrim Fathers— Diamond Cutting and Polishing— Dutch Art; its Characteristics —The Museum— Manners and Customs in Amsterdam— Charitable Institutions— Environs— Broek—Zaandam— Alkmaar. Haarlem :— The Siege— The Groote Kerk— A Tulip Mania— Coster, the Inventor of Printing— The Great Sea of Haarlem 151 MELBOURNE AND THE GREAT TOAVNS OF VICTORIA. The Oldest Inhabitant— Early Explorers and Settlers— " The Settlement "—Small Beginnings-Steady Progress— The Great Gold Rush— What came of it— Melbourne as it is-Its Main Streets and Thoroughfares— Monument to Burke and Wills— Story of their Expedition— The Government of Victoria— Government House- Education in Victoria— The University-Museum— Public Library— The First Public Religious Service in Melbourne— The Churches and Chapels of To-day— Benevolent Institutions— Markets— Cheap Mutton— Botanical Gardens— Suburbs of Melbourne— The Great Reservoir.

Geelong :— The Wool Trade— The Harbour. Ballarat :— Its Disfigurements— First Discovery of Gold-Stories of "Lucky Finds"— The Present Modes of Working for Gold: in the Quartz, Alluvial Loam, Surface Soil— The Ballarat Riots of '54. Sandhurst --Mining Operations- General Appearance— " Advance, Australia!" 173 PARIS. Origin of Paris— Roman Paris— Subsequent History— The Palaces : Louvre— Tuileries— Luxembourg— Palais Royal— de l'Elysee— de Justice— du Corps Legislatif— Hotel de Ville— Bourse, and other Public Buildings— Markets- Fortifications— The Churches of Paris and their Stories— Promenades, Parks, and Gardens— The Boulevards- Street Life of Paris— The Cemeteries— The Environs— Versailles -St. Cloud 201 ROTTERDAM. Origin of the Town and its Name— Shape of the Town— The Boompjes— The Canals— Curious Street Scenes— Cleanliness and Costume— The Church of St. Lawrence— Erasmus— Boyman's Museum— The Park— Statue of Tollens —Schiedam— A Trekschuit Trip.

Delft:— Its History— The Oude Kerk— The Nieuwe Kerk— Story of Hugo Grotius— The Tomb of William the Silent— The Prinsenhof— The Assassination of the Prince of Orange . . .215 BOSTON. The Wilderness— The Puritans— Early Ways— England's no more— The Siege— Many Nations— The City of Notions— The Literati— The Divisions of the City— The North End— Christ Church— The Battle of Lexington-Faneuil Hall— The Markets— The Hub of Gold— The State House— Beacon Hill— The Clubs— Men of Letters— Louisburg —Boston Common— The Soldiers' Monument— Bits of History— The Public Garden— Floral Splendour— A Group of Statues— The City Hall— The Fire Brigade, Police, Aqueducts— Charities and Corrections— King's Chapel— The Old Cemeteries— Books and Newspapers— The Old South Church— The Old State House-State Street— The Post Office— The Insurance Palaces— The Public Library— The Athenæum— The Antiquaries— The Puritan Vatican —Music— The Great Organ— Theatres— Education— Boston University— Institute of Technology— Wellesley College —The Public Schools— The West End— Commonwealth Avenue— The Museum of Fine Arts— Trinity Church— The New Old South Church— The South End— The Secret Societies and the Christian Fraternities— The Unitarians—The Cathedral— Suburban Sketches— The Harbour and Forts— Bunker Hill and its Battle— Soldiers' Monuments— Cambridge and Harvard University— Venerable Houses— Mount Auburn 257 VIENNA.

A Cosmopolitan Empire -Treaties— The House of Hapsburg— Early History of Vienna— The Modern City— Its Situation— Inundations— Climate— Streets and Houses— The Cathedral— Other Churches— The Imperial Palace— The famous Public and Private Libraries— The Belvedere— Picture Galleries— The University— Walks, Gardens, Theatres, and Public Resorts— The Suburbs— Wilden-Schbnbrunn— The Villa of Haydn— A Sketch of his Life- Advance of thc French, and Death of the Musician— Associations of Mozart and Beethoven with Vienna— Story of their Lives— Manufactories— The Wars of the City and the Empire- The 'Horrors of a Siege- Defeat of the Turks under Sobieski and Lorraine— Hero-Worship—Napoleon Attacks the City— Spares the Life of the Archduchess Maria Louisa LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE View of Paris, showing the Seven Bridges.

Frontispiece. PAGE New York {continued) :— Broadway, New York . . . .to face page 69 Introduction :— Trinity Church 69 Illustrated Heading 1 Ancient Rome : the Via Appia I Modern Rome : Gardens of the Villa Pamphili- Doria ib. General View of the Kremlin, Moscow ... 5 Holland and Belgium : " Bits " at The Hague, Leyden, Haarlem, Antwerp, and Ghent ... 9 Fountain of Cybele, Prado, Madrid . . . .12 Washington Irving 73 New York Tribune Office 76 The City Hall 77 77 The Tombs 80 Views in New York :— Union Square 85 The Worth Monument, Madison Square . . ib. Porch of the Church of Heavenly Rest . . ib. General View of Athens 13 The Masonic Temple i'6. Jerusalem and Siloam, from the Hill of Evil Counsel 16 Statue in Madison Square ib. National Academy of Design ib. Benares 17 St. Patrick's Cathedral 89 Faneuil Hall, Boston 20 The Terrace, Central Park, New York (looking towards the Lake) . . . .to face page 93 Old Market-house, Philadelphia 21 The Belvedere, Central Park 93 Constantinople :— Greenwood Cemetery, Brooklyn 97 The Bosphorus 23 Prospect Park, Brooklyn 100 Turkish Softa (Student ) ib.

Coney Island : the Iron Pier and Manhattan Beach Hotel 101 Constantinople, from the Mohammedan Cemetery, Scutari 25 Sport on the New Jersey Shore 103 A Street in Constantinople 28 Alexandria :— The Tower of Galata 29 A Turkish Hamal, or Porter 32 Modern Lighthouse, Alexandria 101 Imperial Palace of Dolma-Baghtche .... 33 Window of the Harem ib. The Mosque of St. Sophia 37 Cleopatra's Needle 109 A Turkish Lady 10 Pompey's Pillar 112 The At-Meidan, Constantinople 11 The Place Mehemet Ali 116 Palace of the Sublime Porte 11 Lady of Alexandria with Black Attendant . . 117 Fountain of the Seraglio 15 Palace of the Khedive, Alexandria . . . .121 Buyukdere 18 Gossips 123 A Caique 19 Venice :— Old Walls. Constantinople 53 In the Venetian Lagoon: the Town Hall. Chioggia 121 New York :— The Fish Market, Chioggia ib.

High Bridge, Harlem River, New York ... 56 The Rialto 125 A New York Porch ib. The Grand Canal, Venice 128 The West Front of St. Mark's Cathedral, Venice to face page 129 Piazza of St. Mark 129 The Ducal Palace, Venice 133 The Shipping on the East River 61 Elevated Railway ib. Hamilton Ferry-house ib. The Battery and Castle Garden LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE PAGE Paris {continued) : - Venice (continued) :— The Champs Elysees, from thc Place de la Concorde to face page 234 The Molo, Venice * . .137 Hall of the Grand Council, Ducal Palace . . .111 The Bridge of Sighs, Venice . to face page 142 The Tour de St. Jacques 236 Gondola and Gondolier 144 The New Opera House -•»■• ■ 237 The Pont Neus 211 The Palace Ferro 115 Versailles Palace and Gardens . . to face page 213 Courtyard of the Salviati Palace . . . .149 The Winged Lion of St. Mark 153 Rotterdam :— Amsterdam :— The Boompjes, Rotterdam 245 On the Y 151 Plan of Rotterdam 218 An Amsterdam Policeman ib.

The Church of St. Lawrence 219 Plan of Amsterdam 161 The Mausoleum of William the Silent, Delft . . 253 Thc Royal Palace 161 Views in Amsterdam :— Boston :— South Church 165 View of Boston, from the State House Mint Tower ib. to face page 257 Dam Square ib. Old House, formerly in Dock Square, where the Tea-Plot is said to have been hatched . . 257 Exchange ib. A Street-scene in Amsterdam (Kalver Street) . . 169 Old State House ib. Quay (Houtgracht) in Amsterdam . . . .173 Christchurch 261 The Town Hall, Haarlem 177 Plan of Boston 261 In the Zoological Gardens, Amsterdam . . . 178 The State House 265 The Old Elm, Boston Common 268 Melbourne and the Great Towns of Victoria :— The Yarra- Yarra 180 Boston Common and Public Garden : — The Public Garden 269 Plan of Melbourne 181 Brewer Fountain ib.

Collins Street, Melbourne . . .to face page 185 The Army and Navy Monument . . . . ib. The Monument to Burke and Wills .... 185 The Bridge ib. Public School 188 Washington Statue ib. The Public Library 189 The Frog Pond ib. The Treasury 192 Tremont Mall ib. Fitzroy Gardens 193 The City HaU 273 The Mines of Sandhurst 197 Old South Church 276 Paris :— Views in Boston :— Boston Museum of Fine Arts . . . .285 The Boulevard Montmartre 201 A Gendarme ib. The Custom House ib. Public Library ib. Paris in the Seventeenth Century . . . .201 Commonwealth Avenue ib. The Louvre :— Pavilion of Rohan 205 Boston Churches :— Triumphal Arch, Place du Carrousel . . . ib. New Old South Church 288 Central Church ........ ib. Pavilion of the Library ib. Trinity Church ib. The Apollo Gallery ib. Pavilion of Richelieu ib.

Cathedral of the Holy Cross 289 Bunker Hill Monument 293 Facade of the Old Louvre ib. The Quadrangle, Harvard University . . .296 Pavilion Turgot ib. Plan of Paris and Surrounding Country . . . 209 Interior of the Memorial Hall, Harvard University 297 The Luxembourg Palace 212 Longfellow's House, Cambridge 298 The Gardens of the Palais Royal . . . .213 Vienna :— The Bourse 220 Dome of the Hotel des Invalides 221 Plan of Vienna 300 Notre Dame (West Front) 221 The Votive Church 301 Notre Dame (Rear View) 225 St. Stephen's Cathedral 304 The Pantheon 228 The Prater Strasse 305 The Churches of Paris :— The Belvedere 308 Le Val de Grace 229 The City Park and the Ring Strasse Boulevard St. Eustache ib. to face page 309 St. Sulpiee ib. The University 309 St. Etienne du Mont ib. The Parliament House 312 Ste. Chapelle ib. The Rath-haus Platz 313 La Madeleine ib. Thc Opera House 316 St. Germain l'Auxerrois ib. The Volksgarten world.