The Russian Empire, its People, Institutions and Resources. Translated [from the work entitled: 'Studien über die innern Zustande,' etc.] by R. Farie

Front matter

•nn; RUSSIAN EMPIRE THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. ITS PEOPLE, INSTITUTIONS, AND RESOURCES. BY BARON VON HAXTIIAUSEN, AUTHOR OP 'TRANSCAUCASIA,' 'THE TRIBES OF THE CAUCASUS,' ET( TRANSLATED BY ROBERT FARIE, Esq. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOLUME I. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1856. PRINTED BY JOHH EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STREET, Lincoln's inn fields. Baron Haxthausen's Work on Russia*, which now appears in an English dress, is already weU known in this country, both through the original German and the French edition. The present translation has been executed entirely from the German. The original Work consists of three large volumes, and the reasons which have led to its abridgment may be briefly stated :' the subjoined notes of the Author will, I think, partly show its necessity. The book not only contains much repeti tion, but there is a general want of arrangement in it, which doubtless arose in a great measure from the Work being written at considerable intervals : this still partly * Tlie original title of this Work is ' Studien iiber die innern Zu stiinde, das Volksleben, und insbesondere die landlienen Einriektungen Russlands.' Tbe first two volumes appeared in 1847, tbe last iu 1852. t Tbis note is introduced in tbe third volume of tbe original to ex plain bow an anecdote is repeated wbicb bad already appeared in a previous part of tbe Work.

" It only appeared during the printing of tbe Work that this characteristic anecdote bad already been related. It could not be omitted here, as a separate impression of this account of the Russian army is to be published. In truth, repetitions fre quently occur in this book ; they were often necessary to explain tbe different consequences of the principles laid down in tbe Work, tbe first and the last parts of which were composed at tbe somewhat dis tant interval of eight years. It was only during the printing and cor recting of the press that the repetitions caught tbe Author's eye, which is indeed but a poor excuse." VI appears in the translation, but the omissions have, it is hoped, materially lessened the objection. Many details occur in the original Work which it was considered un necessary to insert in the translation, being of local rather than general interest; for instance, it appeared superfluous to give all the different minute modifications of the communal and agricultural systems prevailing in the various parts of the Empire, as a more general description renders the leading facts and observations of the Author more obvious.

Baron Haxthausen has given, in his Preface, a general idea of the character of his incjuiries ; and whatever opinion the Reader may form of his views, he cannot but be convinced of the earnest and impartial manner in which the Author pursued his investigations. It is scarcely necessary for me to aUude more particularly to the high reputation which Baron Haxthausen enjoys in this country as well as on the Continent. This translation was commenced without any definite purpose, or expectation of its being made public. It. seemed uncertain whether it would ever be completed, and doubtful whether any English publisher would un dertake it. The book however appeared to give the only account of Russia from which any just idea can be formed of the actual state of the people of that coun try, and the nature of their institutions and government ; and both for the purpose of obtaining a clearer con ception of the subject myself, and communicating information to such of my friends as felt an interest in it, I continued the translation at my leisure until it was com pleted.

Chapter I

Page Leaving Berlin for St. Petersburg. — Differences of Temperature. — Breaking up of the Ice on the Neva. — Holy Week. — Church Music in Eussia. — Easter. — Grand Parade before the Winter Palace. — Leave St. Petersburg. — The Forest Institute at Listzino. — Novgorod. — Vuishni Volotchok. — Torzhok. — Leather Manufactories. — Tver. — Communal Organization. — Villages. — The Ishortzki. — Habitations of the Peasantry. — Enclosures. — National Costume. — Manners 1

Chapter II

Moscow compared with St. Petersburg. — The Great Russians. — National Importance of Moscow. — Influence of Peter I. — Aspect of the City. — Architecture of the Streets and Churches. — The Kremlin. — Ivan Vasilievitch. — The Kitaigorod. — Russian Shopkeepers. — Position of Women. — Population of Moscow. — Change in its Character. — Houses of tbe Nobles. — Domestic Servants.— Manufacturing Labourers. — Moscow a Centre of In- ' dustry. — Formation of a Citizen Class. — German Corporations and Russian Association. — Bussian Artisans.— No Proletarians. —The Dvornik.— The Duboshnik.— The Plotnik . . .25 CONTENTS. XXIV

Chapter III

Page Leave Moscow.— Starlings' Nests.— Peasant Costumes.— The Monastery of Troitza Lavra.— Professor Golubinski.— Belfry.— Uspensln Cathedral.— Tombs ofthe Czars and Princes.— Church of the Trinity.— Curious Pictures. — Legends of Pictures of Christ.— The Doctrine of Purgatory.— St. Sophia and her Daughters.— Church Treasure.— Pearls.— The Monk's Cell- Russian Monks.— The Refectory.— The Hospital.— Library.— Old Slavonic Musical Signs.— Russian Miniatures.— School for tbe Poor.— Theological Academy.— Beggars.— Pereslavl.— Stone and Wooden Churches.— Monastery of St. Nikita.— Lake Pleshtcbesvo.— Monument of Ivan. — Villages of Yaroslaf.— Rostof- Garden Villages 70

Chapter IV

Yaroslaf.— Russian Inn, Caravansary, and Hotel. — The Samovar. — The Governor and his Wife.— Russian Devotion. — Enormous Sturgeon. — M. Karnovitch. — Communal Meeting. — Description of an Estate.— Interior of a Peasant's House. — A Peasant Family. — A Modern Farm.— Yebkoye Selo. — Serfdom. — The Nobles. — Linen Manufactory.— Division of the Land. — Nobles and Serfs.— Count Kisselef.— Legal Tribunals.— Tailors.— Russian Division of tbe Land in tbe Communes. — Obrok. — Tiaglo. — Increase of Population. — Importance of the Communal Institutions.- — St. Simonism. — Resemblances and Contrasts with Russian Social Condition. — Agriculture. — Village Pope. — Ribinsk. — Its Commercial Importance. — The Burlaki. — Return to Yaroslaf ..... 88

Chapter V

Observations on the Government of Yaroslaf. — Eace. — Manufactures. — Agriculture. — Large Estates. — Manufacturing Communes. — European Manufacturing System. — Effects of its Introduction. — Statistics. — Deficiency of Corn. — Supply of Labour. — TraveUing Artisans. — Artisan Communities. — Contractors. — Retail Trading. — Fairs. — Salaries of Officials in the Town of Yaroslaf ........... CONTENTS. XXV

Chapter VI

Departure for Vologda.— Samovar Manufactory at Danilof.— Vologda.— Excursion to Kubensk.— Village Constitution.— Model Farm of the Appanage Peasants.— Leave Vologda.— Principle of Old Russian Colonization.— Forest Region.— The Yemstchik and his Horses. — Russian Popular Songs. — Totma.— Appearance ofthe Villages.— Statistics.— Agriculture and Cattle-breeding.— School Education.— Road to Ustiug.— Aspect and interior of the Town.— The Northern Night.— Water Excursion to Troitza. — Visit to the Starosta at Pestovo.— Costumes.— Whitsuntide at the Monastery of Troitza.— Saints Ivan and Stephan. — The Syranes. — Polovnik Law 177

Chapter VII

Turievetz. — Appanage Village of Diakonski. — People's School. — Artisan School. — Peasants' Houses. — Arrival at Nizhni Novgorod. — The Governor. — Imperial Palace. — The Gulianie. — Popular Amusements and Songs. — "Russian Costumes. — Abundance of Pearls. — A Provincial Theatre. — Superstition. — Excursion to Arzamas. — Visit to a Convent. — Native Artists. — Manufactures. — ViUage of Vizena and its Association of Shoemakers. — Village and Taxing Arrangements. — Beturn to Nizhni Novgorod. — Visit to the Prisons. — Benevolence to the Prisoners. — The Burlaks 220

Chapter VIII

Nizhni Novgorod. — Visit to a Church of the Yedinovertzi. — Russian Sects. — The Morelstchiki, Skoptzi, Khlistovstchina, Bezslovestnie, and Subotniki. — Sects arising from the Schism under the Patriarch Nikon. — The Starovertzi, their Character and Importance. — Religious Discussion in the Kremlin. — Three Sections of Old Believers. — Their Doctrines and Worship. — Their Hospital at Moscow. — Sects since Peter I. — The Molokane and their Doctrines. — The Dukhobortzi and their Doctrines. — Visit to them on the Malotchnaya. — Village of Terpenie . . . 216 vol. 1. c CONTENTS. XXVI Page 302

Chapter IX

Leave Nizhni.— Second Visit to the Camp.— Cantonist Children.— The Mashina on the Volga.— Kosmodemiansk. — Tcheremiss Village.— Tcheremiss Farmstead. — People of the Tcheremiss. — Dress. — Dwellings .—Institutions . — Character.— Rehgious Customs and Ideas. — Exiles on their way to Siberia.— Colonization in Siberia.— The Gold-washings. — Tbe Tchuvash. — Characteristics, Religion and Superstition. — Arrival at Kazan .

Chapter X

Kazan. — Conflagration in 1842. — State-Councillor Von Fuchs. — Migration of Vermin. — The University. — Bussian Switzerland. — The Tatars. — Divine Service of the Tatars. — House of two Tatar Merchants. — Household Arrangements. — Dress. — Physical Conformation of the Tatars. — Intellectual Faculties. — Character and Mode of Life. — Capacity for Civilization, and Pohtical Importance. — Their Conversion to Christianity. — Punishment of the Knout. — Its Abohtion. — Productions of the Soil. — Chmate. — Tatar ViUage of Yepan Ashiuo. — Position of Women. — VUlage Arrangements ......... 317

Chapter XI

Leave Kazan. — Peasant Houses. — Herr Von Pirch. — National Character. — Agriculture. — Ruins of Bolghari. — M. Molostof. — Farming Arrangements. — Simbirsk. — Large Vdlages. — Tchuvash ViUage. — Isthmus of the Volga. — Windmills. — Chain Trade. Samara. — The Mordvins. — Kurgani. — Padovka. — Fuel. — Bashkirs. — Nikolaievsk. — Colonization. — Kushum. — Russian Reception. — Selzomayania. — German Colonies. — Division of the Land. — Orlovskoi. — Kathariuenstadt. — Graiu Trade. — Little Russians. Salt in the Yelton Lake. — A Cossack. — Government of Saratof. — Former Inhabitants. — New Colonization. — Robber Hordes. — Increase of the Population. — Agriculture. — Fishing. — Population CONTENTS. XXVII

Chapter XII

Page Penza.— Serf Barber.— Solevka.— Tatar Village of Musalin— Tatars bound to Military Duty. — Landowners and Serfs. — Russian Law Courts. — Tatar and Russian ViUages. — Russian Peasant Houses and Costumes. — Tambof. — Old Walls. — Transition to the South Russian Character. — Kozlof. — Lipetsk. — The Odnodvortzi and Petty NobiUty. — Breeding Horses on the Bitiug. — Carpet Manufactory. — The Stud at Paddi. — The Rostopshin Stud. — Grenovna. — Stud of the Countess Orlof. — Arabians. — Extraordinary Hospitality. — Voronezh. — The Governor-General. — Remarks on Siberia. — The Government of Tambof. — Means of Communication 363

Chapter XIII

Departure from Voronezh. — Difference in the Country and People. — Kharkof. — Influence of 1812 upon the Nobility and the Provincial Towns. — Streets of Kharkof. — Social Life. — Cultivation of Grain. — Division of Villages. — Character of the Peasantry. — University of Kharkof. — Archbishop Inokenti. — Gymnasium. — Military Colony of Tchuguyef. — Government of Kharkof. — Little and Great Russian Colonization. — Situation, SoU, and Climate. — Agriculture. — Houses. — Dress and Food. — Marriage Ceremonies. — Popular Songs and Dances. — Departure from Kharkof. — Ekaterinoslaf. — Palace and Parks of Potemkin. — Cloth Manufactories. — Serfage . 392

Chapter XIV

Departure from Ekaterinoslaf.— The Mennonites, their Origin and Settlement in West Prussia. — Their Emigration to Russia and Settlement on the Dnieper.— ViUage of Khortitz.— Mennonite Colonies on the Malotchnaya.— Their Religious Service.— John Kornies. — Visit to a Nogai Tatar ViUage.— Constitution of the Mennonites.— German Colonies on the Malotchnaya.— Political Importance ofthe Mennonites.— Isthmus of Arabat.— Arrival at Feodosia and Kertch — ♦ —

Chapter I. Leave Berlin Fok St

PETERSBURG. — DIFFERENCES OF TEMPERATURE. — BREAKING UP OF THE ICE ON THE NEVA. — HOLT WEEK. — CHURCH MUSIC IN RUSSIA. — EASTER. GRAND PARADE BEFORE THE WINTER PALACE. — LEAVE ST. PETERSBURG. — THE FOREST INSTITUTE AT LIS- TZINO. — NOVGOROD. — VUISHNI VOLOTCHOK. — TORZnOK. — LEATHER MANUFACTORIES. — TVER. — COMMUNAL ORGANIZATION. — VILLAGES. — THE ISHOETZKI. — HABITATIONS OF THE PEASANTRY. — ENCLOSURES. — NATIONAL COSTUME.- — MANNERS. Early in March, 1843, I left Berlin for St. Petersburg. At starting w*e had already spring weather ; but beyond Cosslin (travelling through Pomerania) the elevated ground was still covered with a thin layer of snow, whUst in the low grounds a thaw succeeded to the slight frosts of the night. The same temperature con tinued along the coasts of the Baltic, in the country between Danzig and Konigsberg, and throughout Li thuania and Courland to Riga.

Here the Diina was still covered with ice ; but it was already beginning to break up, and we did not traverse it without danger. Above Riga winter still prevailed : the whole country was covered with snow^, which became so deep after we passed Dorpat, that I was obliged to place the carriage VOL. I. b upon a sledge. At a few posts however before reaching St. Petersburg the snow suddenly disappeared, and we had to attach the wheels again and abandon the sledge. This phenomenon is said to be not unusual, from the peculiar warmth of this small extent of country. In St. Petersburg we still found snow, and instead of the droshkies we saw only sledges in the streets. It seemed as if winter w*ere about to recommence; the temperature was from fifteen to twenty-five degrees (Fah renheit) below freezing, and continued so till the middle of April.

The first object of my visit here was to make acquaintance with various persons, procure the letters of of recommendation I might require during my journey in the interior, and collect such facts as might assist me in the study of the national life of Russia. I wiU give only a short account of the few last days which I passed in this capital. Toward the end of April spring appeared. Until then I was lodged in Vasili Ostrof, on the right bank of the Neva. One morning it was announced to me that the breaking up of the ice in the Neva wTas about to commence ; that in a few hours the bridge-of-boats would be dismounted, and, unless I transported myself directly to the other side of the river, I should be cut off for several days from the main part of the town : I crossed over therefore immediately.

In a few* days the snow completely disappeared ; the sledges vanished, and were replaced by droshkies, which were more nume rous and more necessary than ever ; for the streets were nearly everywhere a morass, almost impassable for pe destrians. The pavement in St. Petersburg is extremely bad, and all the efforts of the authorities have not yet produced any satisfactory amendment, although in sever.il EASTER CEREMONIES. 3 places every variety of paving has been tried. The nature of the ground and the climate undoubtedly present great difficulties ; but in seeing the labourers engaged in mend ing the pavement, it is difficult to understand how such wretched work is tolerated. On the Saturday before Easter all the members of a Russian family assemble, generally late in the evening, and remain together until midnight, to visit the churches.

I joined a family, from whom I had received an invita tion. About half-past eleven o'clock we left the house : all the streets were illuminated, in a way wiiich I have only seen in St. Petersburg and Moscow. Along the trottoirs on both sides of the street, in addition to the lamps, and at intervals of four or five paces, arc bowls fiUed with burning tallow and turpentine, which produce a peculiar magical illumination of all objects. The streets were fidl of people, on tlieir way to the dif ferent churches. We went to the Post Church, and found places in the gallery, whence we could survey the whole interior. The building became gradually filled with the faithful, each carrying an unlighted taper in his hand ; everything was silent and sombre, and it was only in the centre, around the tomb of Christ, that tapers were burning.

At a quarter before tw-clve one priest ap peared, then others, and the simple and imposing chant ing of the litanies commenced, with the constantly re peated " Gospodi pomilui!" (Lord, have mercy upon us !) in chorus. This simple chant, sung without any accompaniment by several fine male voices, proceeding from the only lighted part of the church, has a truly im pressive effect. The priests are engaged in their functions around the tomb of the Lord, which is at length carried into the sanctuary : then the roar of cannon announces b the hour of midnight, and the commencement of the new and important day. The chorus of priests in loud and joyful tones sounds the " Christos voskress !" (Christ is risen!); the doors of the ikouostas open; at that on the left the woman standing nearest among the people lights her taper at the consecrated one presented to her by the priest.

The neighbours receive the light from her; and thus it spreads in erratic sparks on aU sides through the church, which is soon illuminated by a thousand lights.* And now begins the solemn mass, with the chorus of the priests. The music of the Western Catholic Church, particularly in Italy, has acquired a secidar and profane cha racter, whicli is heightened by the instrumental accompaniment, and the singers, male and female, dressed in the first style of fashion in the choir, who not unfre quently sing bravuras with embellishments and cadences of their own. Even the church music of Beethoven and Mozart too often partakes of this light and florid character, — the style of the theatre transferred to the church. Some of the stricter Pontiffs have endeavoured to pre vent this, but in vain : little improvement is likely to be effected, untU instrumental music is entirely prohibited in the churches : even the organ ought not to accompany the singing of the priest and chorus, but only that of the congregation.

The choral music of the Protestant churches is admirable ; the compositions of Sebastian Bach will always * On Easter Thursday also I was told the Russians aU bear wax tapers in the churches. During the reading of the Gospels the person standing nearest lights bis taper at that of tbe officiating priest, and communicates the light to his neighbours, which is soon diffused throughout the whole church. Each person takes the taper (the light of the Gospel) home with him. What a simple symbol ! CHURCH MUSIC. ■) be regarded as masterpieces ; but in general the music appears to me too simple, monotonous, and cold.* In my opinion the music of the Russian Church is the best adapted to produce deep religious emotions, which is manifestly the object of all church music. In its pre sent state it is not very ancient.

Throughout the wiiole of the Eastern Catholic church, — -formerly also in Russia, and even among the Starovertzi (ancient believers), who retain tenaciously all the old forms down to the most insignificant details, — the church-singing is entirely dif ferent from the Russian of the present day. It is en tirely in unison ; and in the execution the nasal tones predominate, as throughout the East, and even among the Mohammedans, so that the general effect is by no means pleasing. The melodies how*ever are for the most part very beautiful. In the reign of Catherine II. the church music was reformed in Russia. The old melodies were adapted for several voices, and persons wrere sent to Rome to collect the most ancient Christian melodies, wiiich had been preserved there principally in the Sistine Chapel ; and thus the present music was formed and brought into use.

New compositions also, particularly those of the Russian composer Bartniauski, were intermingled with the liturgies. Schools were everywhere instituted for teaching music to the priests ; and it is a proof of the great musical capacity of the people, as w*ell as of their excellent discipline, that within fifty or sixty years this mode of singing has gradually extended over the whole of the immense empire. How often have I heard in * The cathedral music of the English Church offers a striking excep tion to this remark : there is more varied and just expression in that of PurceU alone than perhaps in any other sacred composer.— Transl. simple village churches the admirable singing which I had become acquainted with in the capitals ! After this short digression I return to my narrative. The Mass proceeded quietly, until shortly before the consecration of the elements, when suddenly the shawl of a woman in the thickest part of the crowd took fire.

It was a moment I sliall not easily forget. A cry of terror ensued from a thousand voices, a fearful tumult, and rushing towards aU the outlets of the church! The priests instantly shut the ikonostas behind them. How ever the danger fortunately was soon over, and the fire was extinguished by the bystanders. The terror was greatest and the danger most imminent near me, in the choir of the gallery, which was crowded, almost exclu sively by ladies of the higher class : there was only one small staircase down to the body of the church. After an interval of ten minutes, all .danger was over, quiet was restored, and the service continued to the end. On entering the street again, I found universal re joicing. All who met greeted, embraced, and kissed each other, with the joyful exclamation, " Christos voskress !" and the answer, " Vo-istino voskress!"

(He is risen in deed !) It was about three o'clock ; all the houses were open, and everybody out of bed ; visitors entered them, and were everywhere received with the Easter greeting, and conducted to the tables loaded and decorated with all sorts of dishes, the consecrated bread and cheese be ing first presented. I met a friend, General von M , in front of his house : his servants received him in the hall, and he embraced and kissed them all without distinction ; then the family met us with embraces and kisses : it looked like a joyful meeting after a long ab sence. REVIEW OF TROOPS AT EASTER. 7 It was only when day broke that each one sought re pose. At eleven o'clock I went to see the Grand Parade. By the intercession of a friend I obtained, under the portal of the Winter Palace, a favourable place for wit nessing the whole.

It was glorious weather, and the magnificent troops were drawm up in a long line. The Grand Duke Michael first appeared, galloping along the line, and was received with loud hurrahs from a thousand voices. After a little while the Emperor came out of the Piilace, and walked to the troops : an immense shout of joy received him. He was in the uniform of the Don Cossacks, wiiich became his handsome form better than a modern uniform. He stood in the centre before the troops, and then a number of private soldiers from all the regiments stepped forward and surrounded him. He went up to each in turn, gave the Easter salute, embraced and kissed him. It was a scene of striking grandeur ! Every year, on the same day, for centuries, this public jubilee has been renewed, to commemorate the resurrection of our Lord.

The feeling of their equa lity before Llhn pervades the whole people ; all, high and low, embrace each other as brethren ; and even the ruler of a quarter of the globe, the temporal protector and head of the Church, salutes the lowest of his subjects, and ac knowledges thereby the religious tie which binds him to his people, by a community of faith, love, and loyalty. After finishing the preparations for my journey, I set out on May 9th, in company with Dr. K , Herr von A , Herr W. von S , and Prince P. L , in two carriages, which we had purchased, called tarantas* * The tarantas must not be confounded with the telega. The tarantas is said to have been originaUy a Tatar vehicle, and even now the best buUt ones are found in Kazan. The telega is a genuine Russian a very comfortable vehicle : it consists of the body of a modern chaise fastened upon a Russian frame, composed of two young oaks about ten or twelve feet long, and four inches thick, fastened upon a carriage with four small wheels.

The motion is elastic and swinging, and is pleasanter than with springs. I had decided to travel night and day on the road between St. Petersburg and Moscow, and to stop only a few hours at the most im portant places. When we left St. Petersburg the wea ther was splendid, but in a few hours it began to rain, and in the night there was a heavy fall of snow, which lay at least six inches deep, and only disappeared when we were within forty-five mdes of Moscow : at length, at noon on May 2nd, in bright sunshine, we reached the gates of the ancient city of the Czars. Peter 1., who wished to bring lus new capital as near as possible to the old one, ordered an Englishman named Macpherson to draw a straight line betweenrSt. Peters burg and Moscow, and make a direct road between them. Nearly seventy miles of it were actuaUy constructed ; but woods and morasses presented immense difficulties, and as all the inhabited towns and places lay out of this line, the plan was given up, and the important towns of Novgorod, Torzhok, Tver, etc., were included in the con templated route.

The road is now* about 480 mdes long, whereas the direct line would have been only 393 mdes. On losing sight of St. Petersburg the road becomes very dreary, particularly in dull weather, passing almost carriage : it resembles a boat placed upon a short four-wheeled frame ; but nobody can assert that it is comfortable to sit in ; you must always balance yourself upon it with some skUl, to prevent being shaken off. As a cure for hypochondria, a daily ride in it would certainly not be without its use. At the post-stations no other carriage is found. JOURNEY TO MOSCOW. 9 entirely through woods and morasses. It afterwards ap proaches the only range of mountains in European Rus sia — the Valdai Mountains — which constitute the water shed between the Baltic and Black Sea. The country here becomes pretty, and sometimes picturesque ; nearer Moscow it is of a sandy character.

Cn the 27th of April, at a few stations distant from St. Petersburg, we left the high road, and drove to Lis tzino, where there is a newly-established Forest Institute, intended as a supplement to the Forest Academy at St. Petersburg : what is taught there theoretically, is here demonstrated practicaUy. We had visited the establish ment in St. Petersburg a few days before. The plan of study and instruction is good, and in substance the same as in German institutions of a similar kind. The education and discipline are military, and the young people wear a uniform. The building has the appearance of a palace, and is luxuriously arranged, the floor for in stance being inlaid. The most scrupulous order and cleanliness prevail. I expressed surprise at this appearance of luxury, which I thought must necessarily pre sent to the youths a contrast to tlieir future mode of life.

Here they would be accustomed to all the com forts, conveniences, and luxuries of modern life ; after wards perhaps they would suffer every kind of privation, deep in the solitudes of the northern forests, and cut off from all the enjoyments, amusements, and elegancies of modern civilization. The reply was, that I was deceived by appearances, and that no over-indulgence actually ex isted ; that to accustom young people to strict obedience, order, and cleanliness, was always desirable ; that the buildings were erected in a noble and handsome style, for in St. Petersburg, under the eyes of the Emperor, it was not aUowed to build in any other way ; that some of the arrangements which appeared luxurious were in fact economical, as for instance the inlaid floor, which was a real saving in the annual expenditure : with merely plain boards, it would be hardly possible to keep the floor clean ; it would have needed constant washing and scrubbing, and this, when overdone, rots the wood ; the inlaid floor was dear at first, but there the expense ended ; and so on.

The young people, it was said, were certainly not over-indulged in tlieir food : their whole maintenance costing on an average about thirteen or fourteen silver copeks a day (hd.) each person. They receive in the morning bread and sbiten, a warm drink made of treacle, spice, and hot water ; at noon three dishes, soup, meat, and a tart ; in the evening soup and groats. I could not admit that my remarks were answered ; but I perceived that other reasons existed, whicli were not expressed, but might be divined. In St. Petersburg, before the face of Europe (a consideration to whicli un fortunately undue attention is paid in Russia), and still more under the eye of the Emperor, no establishment can be founded which has the appearance of poverty. It would also be impossible to retain young people in such an establishment, as aU those of the same rank and education have been brought up thus luxuriously in the other Imperial educational institutions and cadet-houses in St. Petersburg.

In Russia only the children of the nobility are educated in the pubhc institutions. Brought up at home in the midst of luxury (which is in no country greater among the educated classes, who consist alone of the nobility), they imagine they fare much worse in the Imperial institutions than at home. How often have I heard complaints of bad food, although I found it THE FOREST INSTITUTE. everywhere more abundant and better cooked than in any similar school in Germany ! It would be impossible, in Russia, to retain these spoilt children of modern civi lization in such institutions, were not certain prospects of rank and station united with them. In Germany, down to the very artisans, and even the peasantry, a large proportion of the chddren receive a good school education from early youth; whdst they learn, in the houses of their parents, relatives, and pa trons, to endure all kinds of poverty and privation.