Narrative of the Expedition of an American Squadron to the China Seas and Japan, performed in the years 1852, 1853 and 1854, under the command of Commodore M. C. Perry ... by order of the Government of the United States. Compiled from the original notes and journals of Commodore Perry and his...

Front matter

NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF AN AMERICAN SQUADRON 10 THE CHINA SEAS AND JAPAN, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1852, 1853, and 1854, UNDER THE COMMAND OF COMMODORE M. 0 PERRY, UNITED STATES NAVY, BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. COMPILED FROM THE ORIGINAL NOTES AND JOURNALS OP COMMODORE PERRY AND HIS OFFICERS, AT HIS REQUEST, AND UNDER HIS SUPERVISION, By FRANCIS L. HAWKS, D. D. L. L. D. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE CONGRESS OF THE UNITED STATES. WASHINGTON: A. O. P. NICHOLSON, PRINTER 1856. PREFATORY NOTE. Prompted in a great degree by feelings of personal friendship for Commodore Perry, the compiler of the following pages yielded to his earnest request, enforced as it was by that of other friends, and consented to undertake the task of preparing this Narrative of the United States' Expedition to Japan.

And here it is proper to mention, that among the expressed motives which induced the Commander of the Expedition to desire the execution of the work hy other hands than his own, none seemed more prominent than this consideration : that, as the facts here embodied were to be gathered not merely from the pages of his own journal, but from those also of several of his officers, as well as from their official reports to him, he thought it better to confide the compilation to a disinterested third party, who might weave the various materials into a connected narrative of all the important events, uninfluenced by that partiality for his own words or acts, from which, owing to the infirmities of human nature, the most honest and best of men are not always entirely exempt. As the sole object on the part of the Commander was to afford to his government and countrymen the most ample account he could of what had been done by himself, his officers, and men — as in this respect he had nothing to conceal, as he wished to present truly all of interest that had been observed either by himself or others, and to do justice to the deserving officers who had so effectually sustained him in his plans for carrying out a new, delicate, and arduous work — he deemed it best to place in the hands of the compiler, without reserve, all the materials in his possession, whether from his own pen, or furnished by the labor of others, and to request nothing more than that the preparation of the work might be conducted in a spirit conformable to the ends and wishes just expressed.

The materials were abundant and varied. Beside the manuscript journal of the Commo dore, in three large folios, and his official correspondence ; the journals of his secretary and other officers, the diaries of the fleet captain aud flag-lieutenants, the official reports of gentlemen detailed for special duties, and the public documents connected with the Expe- PREFATORY NOTE. IV dition, were all placed in the hands of the writer. Of these, the Commodore's journal and official correspondence form much the larger part.* The work to be performed was that of a compiler merely. With no responsibility as to the facts related, the writer believed his appropriate duty to be simply to weave into a connected narrative all of interest or importance that could be gathered from these various materials, and to present, in chronological order, the incidents of the Expedition.

Chapter I

Probabilities of a successful mission from the United States to Japan. — Such a mission proposed to the Government by Commodore Perry. — Expedition resolved on. — Vessels selected for the squadron. — Vexatious delay in their equipment. — Commodore Perry sent in the Mississippi to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. — Applications of scientific men to join the expedition refused. — Causes of such refusal. — Dr. Von Siebold. — Visit of the President and Secretary of the Navy to Annapolis to take leave of the expedition. — Failure of the machinery of the steamship Princeton on the passage down Chesapeake Bay. — Substitution of steamer Powhatan in place of the Princeton. — Final departure of Commodore Perry on the mission with the Mississippi alone.. 75—80 CHAPITER II.

Voyage from the capes of the Chesapeake to Madeira. — View of the island. — Funchal. — Hospitality of the inhabitants. — Salubrity of the climate. — Exports of the island. — Novel mode of conveyance. — Departure from Madeira and arrival at the Canaries. — Early failure of northeast trades. — Extraordinary swell from the northwest. — General order as to private journals and communications to public prints. — General order as to scientific investigations by officers. — The "Harmattan," consideration of hypotheses as to its origin. — Southeast trades. — Ship steered for St. Helena. — Observations on the currents. — Chaplain's observations on the zodiacal lights. — Arrival at St. Helena. — Description of the island. — Jamestown. — Longwood. — Tomb of Napoleon. — The calculating hospitality of the inhabitants of the island. — Adventure of Lieutenant . — Fortifications of the island. — Their sufficiency against sailing vessels. — Probable insufficiency against an approach from the west by steam. — Departure from St. Helena 81 — 96 CHAPTER HI.

Passage to the cape. — Fuel for steamers. — Table rock and Cape Town. — Description of Cape Town. — Climate. — Annoyance from dust. —Violence of winds and difficulty of holding to anchorage. — Supplies at the cape. — Caffre war and its effects. — Mode of transporting produce on land. — Vineyards of Constantia. — Effects of emancipation of slaves on agricultural labor. — Mode of cultivating the vine. — Population of Cape Colony. — Bushmen. — The Caffres. — Physical characteristics. — Fingoes. — Military organization of Caffres. — Condition of the emancipated slaves. — Departure from Table Bay. — Passage to, and arrival at, Mauritius. — Harbor of Port Louis.— Dangers of the harbor.— Skill of port officers in mooring vessels. 97 — 106

CHAPTER IV.

Mauritius, its discovery. — Geological formation and physical aspect. — Production of sugar. — Effect on agriculture of the abolition of slavery.— Coolies. — Population of the island. — State of feeling between English and French residents. —Hospitable treatment of the expedition.— Description of Port Louis.— Grand Port.— Paul and Virginia.— Facts on which St. Pierre founded his story.— Tombs of Paul and Virginia.— Built by an eccentric Frenchman. — Cyclones. — Their probable causes. —Interest felt in them at Mauritius. — Departure of the Mississippi from Port Louis.— Her course thence to Point de Galle, island of Ceylon.— Reasons for taking it.— Point de Galle, description of. — Great rendezvous of steamers.— Difficulty of procuring fuel there.— American consul.— Thoughts on consular system.— Early knowledge of Ceylon.— Its several European possessors.— Climate.— Salubrity.— Causes of its diminished prosperity.— Productions.— Value of cocoa-nut palm.— Pearl fishery.— Immense numbers of elephants.— Great slaughter of them.— Boa constrictor.— Population of Ceylon.— Physique of Cingalese, Malabars, and Mahomedans in the island.— Religious condition.— Buddhism.— Pilgrimage to the temples.— Intercourse with a Siamese naval officer at Ceylon.— Commodore's letter to the second king of Siam.— Departure from Ceylon.— Passage through the Straits of Malacca.— Arrival at Singapore , 107—124 CONTENTS. Page .

CHAPTER V.

Singapore.— Its great commerce.— Population.— Rapid increase.— Hospitality of a wealthy Chinese merenant.— Importance of Singapore to England.— Coal depot at Singapore.— Physical aspect of the country.— Agricultural products.— Animals.— Ferocity of the tiger.— Water buffalo.— Passage from Singapore to Hong Kong — Currents, rocks, tides.— Chinese fishing boats.— Arrival at Hong Kong.— Finding there sloops-of-war Saratoga and Plymouth and store-ship Supply . —Susquehanna gone to Shanghai. — Disappointment of the Commodore.— Condition and prosperity of Hong Kong— Run to Macao, thence to Whampoa on Canton river.— Navigation of the river. — First impressions made by the city. — Disappointed expectations. — Hospitality of American consul at Canton.— The hongs or factories.— Streets in Canton.— Proper name of the city.— Bocca Tigris. — Chinese forts. —Pirates on the river. — Attempt to rob one of the officers.— Canton market place. — Trade of Canton with Europe and America - 125—138 CHAPIER VI.

Hospitable treatment at Macao. — Usages of the foreign merchants toward visitors. — Depressed condition of Macao. — Description of the place. — Tanka boats, and girls who manage them. — Cave of Camoens. — Departure of Mississippi from Macao. — Saratoga left to bring Mr. Williams, the interpreter. — Difficulties of navigation from Hong Kong to the mouth of Yang-tse-keang. — Entrance of the river dangerous. — Susquehanna, Plymouth, and Supply all aground. — Mississippi saved by the power of her engines only. — Description of Shanghai. — Its immense trade. — Cultivation of the country. — Population of the city. — Visit of the Commodore to the governor of the city. — Chinese rebellion. — Its effects. — Plymouth left at Shanghai to protect American interests. — Departure for Great Lew Chew. — Arrival of the squadron at the capital, Napha, the Saratoga having joined at the entrance to the harbor -- 139 — 150

CHAPTER VII.

Number and position of islands of Lew Chew. — Their supposed political relations to Japan and China. — Description of the island of Great Lew Chew, as seen on the first approach to it. — Visit of officials to the Susquehanna. — Visit of Dr. Bettelheim. — Refusal of presents, and consequent mortification of the Lew Chewans. — Exploration of the island resolved on by the Commodore. — Daguerreotyping on shore. — Coral insect and its formations. — Second visit of the authorities of Lew Chew. — Regent of the island received by the Commodore. — Friendly nature of the interview. — Surprise of the Lew Chewans at sight of the steam-engine. — Commodore announces to them his intention of returning the visit at the palace of Shui. — Their evident embarrassment thereat. — Leave to go on shore. — Description of Napha and its vicinity, by one of the officers. — Exploring party sets out, placed under the command ofthe chaplain, Mr. Jones. — Mr. Bayard Taylor attached to it, with orders to take notes and furnish a detailed report of the journey. — Negotiations with the Lew Chew authorities to obtain a house on shore. — Their manifest opposition. — Commodore persists and succeeds. — Officers, when on shore, continually watched by spies. — Captain Basil Hall's account of the Lew Chewans somewhat exaggerated. — Impressions made on the officers as to the character of the natives. — Hydrographic surveys. — Boat exercise of the crews, and drilling on land of the marines 151 161

CHAPTER VIII.

Report of an inland exploration of Great Lew Chew, by a party from the squadron, under the command of Commodore Perry — 152 jgg

CHAPTER IX.

Efforts of authorities of Lew Chew to prevent a visit to the palace. — All unsuccessful. — Landing for the visit. Procession. — Appearance ofthe country. — Reception at the palace. — Embarrassment ofthe regent. Entertainment at the regent's house. — Saki. — New dishes. — Commodore invites authorities to a dinner on board the Susquehanna. — General impressions produced by the visit. — Espionage still kept up. — Daily exercise of sailors and marines. — Settlement of accounts with Lew Chew authorities. — Mississippi and Supply remain at Lew Chew. — Susquehanna and Saratoga leave for the Bonin islands. — Death of an opium smoker on the passage. — Inhumanity of Chinese. — Sunday on board. — Arrival at Port Lloyd jo**- ing

CHAPTER X.

Situation of Bonin islands. — First discovery of them. — Europeans have no claim as the discoverers. Mixed character of present settlers. — External appearance of Peel island. — Geological formation. Harbor of Port Lloyd. — Productions of the island, animal and vegetable. — Resort of whalers. — Condition of present inhabitants. — Commodore causes the island to be explored. — Reports of exploring parties. Kanakas Ex animation of Stapleton island, and report thereon. — Survey of harbor of Port Lloyd. Land purchased for a coal depot. — Departure from Bonin islands on the return to Lew Chew. — Disappointment island Itstrue position. — Borodinos. — Arrival at Napha .„_ CONTENTS. IX Pago.

CHAPTER XI.

Changes at Napha. — New regent. — Banquet on board of the Susquehanna. — Excessive dignity of the new regent. — Stateliness of Lew Chewans thawed out by the dinner. — Guests sent home. — Bamboo village. — Interior of Lew Chew houses. — Men indolent. — Gossipping at Lew Chew. — Lew Chew loom. — Different classes of the people. — Their fear of spies. — Slavery of peasants. — Causes of degradation. — Excellence of agricultural cultivation. — Origin of population of Lew Chew. — Former kingdoms on the island. — Relation of Lew Chew to China and Japan, respectively. — Education in Lew Chew. — Religion of the inhabitants. — Christian mission in Lew Chew. — Distinctions of dress. — People sell themselves as slaves. — Clanship. — Coin in Lew Chew. — Sugar making. — Natural products of the island. 215 — 227 CHAPTER Xn.

Departure from Napha for Japan. — Course of the ships. — Oho-Sima. — Island seen by Commander Glynn, probably Oho-Sima. — Cleopatra islands. — Currents. — Fourth of July on board. — Approach to Cape Idzu. — Squadron, led by the Susquehanna, enters the bay of Yedo. — Rock island. — Hazy atmosphere of Japan. — Surprise of the Japanese at sight of the steamers moving against wind and tide. — Bay of Sagami. — Appearance of the coast and country inland. — Fusi-Jama. — Ships made ready for action. — Fleet of Japanese boats put off from the shore. — Left behind by squadron. — Bay of Uraga. — Opposite coast of Awa. — Japanese forts. — Squadron comes to anchor in the bay of Uraga. — Soundings on approaching the anchorage. — Japanese guard-boats put off. — No one permitted to come on board the ships. — Appearance of guard-boats and crews. — Skill of the Japanese in managing their boats. — Guard-boat comes alongside of the Mississippi, and Japanese functionary demands to come on board. — Not permitted. — Notice in the French language, ordering the ships away, held up to be read. — Interpreters directed to inform the Japanese that the Commodore would confer with no one but the highest official in Uraga. — Japanese replied that they had the vice governor on board. — This officer and his interpreter allowed to come on board the Susquehanna. — Not permitted to see the Commodore. — Conference with Lieutenant Contee, who explains that the Americans have come on a friendly mission, and that 'the Commodore bears a letter from the President of the United States to the Emperor. — Desires the appointment of an officer of suitable rank to receive it from the Commodore. — Commodore refuses to go to Nagasaki. — Informs the Japanese officials that if the jfuard-boats are not immediately removed he will disperse them by force. — The boats are withdrawn. — Vice governor returns to the shore, promising further communication on the morrow. — Policy resolved on by the Commodore. — Meteorological phenomenon. — Visit on the next day from the governor of Uraga. — Conference between him and Commanders Buchanan and Adams. — Second refusal of the Commodore to go to Nagasaki. — Determination expressed to deliver the letter there, and, if necessary, in the city of Yedo itself. — Governor proposes to refer the matter to Yedo. — Commodore assents and allows three days for an answer. — Survey by the squadron's boats of the bay of Uraga, and ultimately of the bay of Yedo 228 — 242

CHAPTER XIII.

Reply from the court at Yedo. — Efforts of the Japanese to get the squadron out of the bay of Yedo. — Commodore's firm refusal to leave Uraga. — Agreement of the Emperor to receive, through a commissioner, the President's letter. — High breeding of the Japanese gentlemen; not ill-informed. — Survey of the hay of Yedo. — Fogs of Japan. — Second visit from the governor of Uraga. — He brings a letter from the Emperor, authorizing a prince of the empire to receive, in his name, the President's letter. — Arrangements made for the Commodore's reception on shore to deliver the letter. — Minute attention of the Japanese to etiquette and ceremonials. — Preparations in the squadron for the visit on shore at the reception. — Ships brought near the land, so as to command the place of meeting. — Landing and reception, and delivery of the letter and other documents. — Princes of Idsu and Iwama. — Contents of President's letter. — Commodore's letter of credence, and his letters to the Emperor. — Receipt given by the Japanese for the papers. — Return to the ships - -- - - 243 — 261

CHAPTER XIV.

Concessions of the Japanese. — Relaxation of their restrictive laws. — Satisfaction of both Japanese and Americans at the result of the visit on shore and delivery of the President's letter. — Visitof Keyama Yezaimen to the ships. — Impudence of the interpreter Saboroske. — The squadron goes further up the bay towards the capital. — Policy of this movement. — Alarm of the Japanese gradually quieted. — Beautiful scenery up the hay. — Survey of the bay continued. — Conviviality on board. — Surveying boats enter a small river. — Cordial greeting of the inhabitants. — Crowd dispersed by a Japanese official.— Commodore transfers his pennant from the Susquehanna to the Mississippi. — The last-named vessel goes up in sight of the shipping place of yedo. — Sinagawa. — Yedo about ten miles distant from the point where the ships turned about. — Good depth of water in Yedo bay, probably almost up to the city.— The bay pretty thoroughly explored and b X CONTENTS.

Page. sounded by the surveying parties. — Interchange of presents with the Japanese officers. — Avowed sorrow of Japanese officials on bidding farewell to the Americans.— Commodore's reasons for not waiting for a reply to the President's letter. — Leaves Yedo bay declaring his intention to return in the ensuing spring. — The Saratoga sent to Shanghai to look after American interests. — The Plymouth ordered to Lew Chew. — Oho-Sima. — Ships encounter a storm. — General results of the first visit of the squadron to the bay of Yedo. 262— 2T3

CHAPTER XV

Amakirima islands. — State of feeling in Lew Chew. — Commodore's measures for permanent arrangements with the authorities. — Coal depot. — Protest against espionage. — Trade in open market. — Letter to the regent. — Interview with the regent. — Entertainments of the Commodore. — During dinner the regent's answer is brought. — Unsatisfactory to the Commodore. — Letter handed back to the regent, and the Commodore prepares to leave the house. — Informs the regent that he minit have a satisfactory answer on the next day, otherwise he will land and take possession of the palace at Shui and retain it until matters are adjusted. — Probable effects of hunting up the old sedan chair on shore — Commodore's propositions all accepted. — Coal depot built. — Visit to the castle of Tima-Gusko. — Purchases in the bazaar. — Departure from Napha for China. — Plymouth left behind with orders to visit Bonin islands and make further surveys. — Captain Kelly's report of the visit and surveys. — Form of government and constitution of the settlers on Peel island. — General effect of this lasrt visit to Lew Chew. — Arrival of the Vandalia ; of the Powhatan. — Overhauling of the vessels of the squadron at Hong Kong 274 — 28C

CHAPTER XVI.

Alarm of Americans in China. — Request to Commodore that he would send a ship to Canton. — Supply sent. — The rest of the squadron at Cum-sing-moon. — Hospital established and house taken at Macao. — Sickness in the squadron. — Work kept up in all departments, notwithstanding. — Healthiness of Canton. — Gluttony of the Chinese. — Chinese servants. — Chinese English, or " pigeon." — Male dressmakers, chamber servants, etc. — Chinese female feet.; — Chinese guilds. — Beggars. — Charitable institutions. — Thieves. — Boatmen. — Laboring classes. — Domestic servants. — Polygamy and its moral results. — Decadence of Macao. — Humbled condition of the Portuguese. — Harbor of Macoa. — Commodore establishes his depot for the squadron at Hong Kong. — Pleasant society of Macao. — Powhatan stationed at Whampoa to relieve the Susquehanna. — Supply still at Canton. — Chinese peaceable towards foreigners. — Steamer "Queen" chartered to protect American interests in China while the squadron should go to Yedo. — Suspicious movements of Russians and French induce the Commodore to hasten his return to Japan. — Lexington arrives. — The squadron ordered to rendezvous at Napha, Lew Chew. — Orders received, just as the squadron leaves China, to detach a steamer for the use of Mr. McLane, American Commissioner to China. — Embarrassment of the Commodore in consequence. — His mode of proceeding to accomplish both the objects of the government. — Correspondence with Sir George Bonham touching the Bonin islands. — Courtesy of the English Admiral Pellew. — Squadron assembles at Napha 287 — *_©S

CHAPTER XVII.

Increased cordiality and friendly intercourse on the part of the Lew Chewans. — Second visit of the Commodore to the palace at Shui. — Entertainment by the regent. — No metallic coin of Lew Chew to be obtained. — Rev. Mr. Jones' second exploration in search of coal. — Finds it at Shah bay. — The mineral not valued by the natives. — Additional geological observations in Lew Chew. — Remarkable salubrity of the island. — Tenure of lands. — Agriculture. — Bice, potatoes, sugar, cotton, wheat, barley, millet, sago, beans, peas, tobacco, edible roots, fruits, trees, flowers, etc. — Sugar mills. — Grain mills and granaries. — Population. Ethnology. — Costume. — Politeness of manner. — General intelligence. — Architecture. — Rude attempts in painting and sculpture. — Amusements. — Government. — Religion. — Funeral rites. — Japanese spies in Lew Chew. — Departure for the bay of Yedo 309—329

CHAPTER XVIII.

Letter from Dutch Governor General of India announcing the death of the Japanese Emperor. — Commodore's reply. — Enumeration of the several objects in view. — Prospects of their attainment by the mission. Officers and men left in Lew Chew. — Arrival of the Saratoga. — Run to Yedo bay. — Oho-Sima. — Cleopatra isles. Mijako-Sima.— All belong to Lew Chew group. —Entrance of gulf or outer bay of Yedo.— Japanese charts of little value; made for mere coasting. — Wintry aspect of Japan. — Macedonian aground. — Hauled off by the Mississippi.— Friendly offers of the Japanese to assist the Macedonian. —Squadron proceeds up the bay and anchors at the "American anchorage." — Japanese officials come alongside. — Received by Captain Adams on the Powhatan, pursuant to the Commodore's orders. — They attempt to prevail on the Commodore to return to Uraga, stating that the high Japanese functionaries were there awaiting his arrival, byappointment of the Emperor. — Commodore declines on account of safety of the ships. — Visit on the next CONTENTS.

XI day from the officials, who reiterate their request, with an assurance that the commissioners were ordered **'' to receive the Commodore at Uraga with distinguished consideration.— Commodore again declines.— Japanese ask that an officer may be sent to Uraga to confer with the commissioners as to a place of meeting.— Commodore consents that Captain Adams may hold such a conference, but that the commissioners must come there to hold it,— Japanese become alarmed as to the friendly feelings of the Americans.— Their fears allayed.— Survey of the bay resumed without interruption by the Japanese.— Our boats forbidden by the Commodore to land.-^Japanese persist for several days in desiring the Commodore to go to Uraga with the ships.— Commodore invariably refuses.— At length the Japanese are informed that the Commodore will allow Captain Adams to meet a commissioner on shore near the ships, or that he will proceed up the bay to Yedo.— Note from the commissioners to the Commodore.— His reply.— Captain Adams sent down to Uraga to communicate to the commissioners the Commodore's reasons for declining to take the ships to Uraga.— Some of the Japanese accompany him in the Vandalia.— Interview of Captain Adams with the commissioners at Uraga.— Visit to Captain Adams from Yezaiman on board the Vandalia.— Assures Captain Adams of the friendly disposition of the Emperor.— Vandalia returns, and perceives ahead the squadron standing up the bay toward Yedo.— The Japanese no longer urge going to Uraga, but suddenly propose Yoku-Hama, where the ships then were, about eight miles from Yedo.— Commodore immediately assents.— Buildings constructed at Yoku-Hama.— A Japanese seaman in the squadron sends a letter to his family ashore, by Yezaiman.— Yezaiman desires an interview with him.— The interview.— Ceremonials settled as to the conferences on shore for negotiation 301 3*2

CHAPTER XIX.

Ships anchored in Yoku-Hama bay so as to command the shore. — Kanagawa "treaty house." Imperial barge. Landing of the Commodore. — Description of the Japanese commissioners. — Interpreters. — Servility to superiors. — Negotiations commenced. — Commodore submits a copy of the treaty of the United States with China for consideration. — Death of one of our men.— Commodore proposes to buy a burial ground for Americans. — Commissioners propose to send the body of the deceased to Nagasaki for interment. — Commodore refuses, and proposes to bury the dead on Webster's island. — Commissioners consent to the interment at Yoku-Hama. — The burial by Chaplain Jones. — Interest of the Japanese in the ceremony. — They afterwards perform their own rites over the covered grave. — The Japanese build au enclosure around the spot.

Japanese artists attempt the portraits of our officers. — Answer to the President's letter. — Informal conference between Captain Adams and Yenoske. — Landing and delivery of the presents. — Japanese workmen assist the Americans in preparing for their exhibition. — Negotiations continued. — Surprise and delight of the Japanese at the telegraph and railroad. — Curiosity of the Japanese in examining mechanism. — Passion for buttons. — Note-taking of everything strange to them — Love of pictures. — Drawings. — Common people disposed to social intercourse with the Americans. — Excitement on Chaplain Bittinger's attempt to reach Yedo by land. — Written reply of commissioners, declining to make a treaty like that of the United States with China. — Further negotiations. — Accuracy of the Japanese in noting all the discussions. — Ports of Simoda and Hakodadi agreed to, but with great difficulty on the part of the Japanese 343 366

CHAPTER XX.

Cordiality between Japanese and Americans. — Presents from the Japanese. — Coins. — Singular custom of including rice, charcoal, and dogs, in a royal Japanese present. —Japanese wrestlers. — Their immense size and strength. — Exhibition in the ring. — Contrast in the exhibition of the telegraph and locomotive. — Parade of the marines. — Yenoske visits the flag-ship, and seeks to draw the Commodore out. — Failure. — Entertainment of the Chinese commissioners on board the flag-ship. — Great cordiality. — Peformance on ship-board of "Ethiopian minstrels," to the great amusement of the Japanese. — Negotiations continued. — Japanese object to the immediate opening of the ports. — Finally concede the point to a certain extent. — Absolute < and persistent refusal to allow Americans permanently to abide in Japan. — Reluctant consent, after much discussion, to allow one consul to reside at Simoda. — Treaty finally agreed on and signed. — Presents by Commodore to the commissioners, that to the chief being the American flag. — Entertainment of the Commodore and his officers by the commissioners. — Peculiarities of the mission to Japan. — Obstacles to making any treaty at all. — Disposition of the Japanese shown in the conferences. — Particular refusal to make a treaty allowing American families or females to live in Japan. — Analysis of the treaty. — Commodore careful to secure for the United States all privileges that might thereafter be granted by treaty to other nations. — Case of the American schooner Foote 367 — 392

CHAPTER XXI.

Departure of Commander Adams for the United States, with the treaty. — Visits of the Commodore and officers on shore. — Imperturbable composure of Yenoske when charged with falsehood. — Call upon the Mayor of Yoku-Hama. — The ladies of his household. — Disgusting fashion of dyeing their teeth. — Use of rouge. — En- CONTENTS. r»_.c tertainment of the Commodore. — The Mayor's baby. — The common people very comfortable. — Field labors shared by the women. — Straw great-coat for rainy weather. — Paper umbrellas. — People not indisposed to intercourse with foreigners. — Respectful treatment of the female sex. — Japanese un-oriental in this re spect. — Polygamy not practised. — Japanese women naturally good-looking. — Some strikingly handsome. — Girls have great vivacity, yet dignified and modest. — Social habits. — Visits. — Tea parties. — Squadron, after notice to the Japanese authorities, proceeds up the bay with some of the officials on board. — Powhatan and Mississippi go within sight of the capital. — Its immense size. — Sea front protected by high palisades. — Change of Japanese policy on the second visit to Yedo. — All show of military resistance studiously avoided.— The Commodore assures the Japanese officials that he will not anchor the steamers near the city, and, after a glance, at their request, returns. — Great joy of the officials thereat. — Preparations for departure. — Mace donian ordered to Peel island. — Southampton, Supply, Vandalia, and Lexington sent to Simoda. — Webster island. — Departure of the Commodore for Simoda. — Harbor examined. — The town and adjacent country. — Shops and dwellings. — Public baths. — Food. — Mode of cultivation. —Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards and tombs. — Statues of Buddha. — Offerings of flowers on the graves. — Epitiiphs or inscriptions. — Charms for keeping away fom the dead malignant demons. — A temple appropriated for the occupancy of our officers. — • A Sintoo temple. — Mariner's temple. — Salubrity of Simoda. — Made an imperial city since the treaty 393 — 414 CHAPTER 7X_XH.