A new description of Oregon and California ... Also an account, by Col. R. B. Mason, of the Gold Region and a new route to California

Front matter

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Chapter I. Scenes And Incidents, Of

A PARTY OF OREGON EMIGRANTS, The Rendezvous; convention of traders, trappers and emigrants at. Destination of emigrants; increase of; number of. Organization. Departure from Independence. Anticipated harmony. Contrariety of feeling. Proposition to enact laws; reason for their enactment. Violation of Indian lights. Offender arraigned; his trial. Legislative committee; report of. A Decree; opposition to; abrogation of. Disease and death. Return lo the States. Meeting of traders. Buffalo calves. Herds of buffalo; immensity of. A buffalo hunt. Rebuff of " green horns." Success of mountaineers. Driving buffalo to camp. An election; result of. Division of party. Arrival al Fort Larimie. Cattle and wagons disposed of. Parties united. Leaving Fort Larimie. Meeting of traders and trappers. Mr. Fitzpatrick, employed as guide.

Unanimity restored. Arrival at Siceet-water. A death. Interment. Re-election of officers. An order; importance of. Inexperience. The author long having had an anxious desire to visit those wild re gions upon the great Pacific, which had now become the topic of con versation in every circle, and in reference to which, speculations both rational and irrational were everywhere in vogue, now determined to ac complish his desired object: for which purpose he repaired to Indepen dence, Mo., which place was the known rendezvous of the Santa Fe traders, and the trappers of the Rocky mountains. Having arrived at Independence, he was so fortunate as to find, not only the Santa Fe traders, and the Rocky mountain trappers, but also a number of emigrants, consisting of families and young men, who had convened there with the view of crossing the Rocky mountains, and were waiting very patiently until their number should be so increased as to afford protection and in sure the safety of all, when they contemplated setting out together, for their favorite place of destination, Oregon territory.

The number of emigrants continued to increase with such rapidity, that on the 15th day of May, our company consisted of one hundred and sixty persons, giving us a force of eighty armed men, which was thought ample for our pro tection. Having organized, and having ascertained that all had provided themselves with the necessary quantum of provisions and ammunition, as well as such teams and wagons as the company had previously deterfor the first time, saw the buffalo. The only ones, however, which they saw here, were eight or ten buffalo calves, which the traders had domesticated for the St. Louis market; and so completely domesticated were they, that they followed the cows, which had been taken out for that purpose, with very little trouble to the drivers. This meeting afforded a very favorable opportunity for forwarding letters to the States, of which many of the party were happy to avail themselves.

We were informed, by this party, that we would find the buffalo upon the Platte, a few days travel below the confluence of sis north and south branches : upon arri ving at which place, we did find them in the greatest abundance imaginable. No adequate conception can be formed of the immensity of the numerous herds, which here abound. The entire plains and prairies are densely covered, and completely blackened with them, as far as the most acute vision extends. Now the most feverish anxiety, and confused ex citement prevails. Those who are accustomed to buffalo hunting, are almost instantly upon their fleet horses, and in chase, while those unac customed to such scenes, "green horns," as they are called, are in the greatest confusion, adjusting saddles and martingals, tightening girths and spurs, loading guns and pistols, and giving their friends, wives and children, all manner of assurances of their unparalleled success.

They too, are now ready, and like the mountaineer, they dart away, as with the wings of light ; but they soon observe that they are far in the rear of the mountaineer, who is now amid the buffalo, slaying them on the right and left, in the front and rear. But stimulated by the loud thundering and clattering sounds, produced by the confused rushing forth of the thousands of frightened buffalo, as well as by the extraoidinary success of the mountaineer, they ply the spur with renewed energy; and giving their fiery steeds loose rein, they are soon in the vicinity of the scene of action, but not in the scene of action, for to their utter sur prise, and intolerable vexation, their heretofore faithful steeds, now de cline the contest ; and notwithstanding the renewed application of the spur, they merely bound, snort and plunge, but keep a respectful distance, il they arrive in the midst of the slain buffalo, which have been left by t. mountaineer.

Here their timidity is increased, and taking a new fright, they dart and leap away with great velocity, and notwithstanding the firm and steady restraint of the sturdy rider, they soon meet the moving caravan, to the infinite gratification of the mountaineer, the utter astonishment of the " green horn," and the sad disappointment of the friends, wives and children, who had anticipated so much from the first grand debut in buffalo hunting. The experienced hunter is soon seen re turning to the camp, with his horse heavily laden with the choicest portions of some of the numerous buffalo which he has slain. In order that the company may now obtain a supply of the delicious fresh meat, with which the plains are strewed, it is directed to encamp, which having been done, all are soon abundantly supplied.

Having been a few days among the buffalo, and his horses having become accustomed to these terrific scenes, even the ''green horn," is enabled, not only to kill the buffalo with much expertness, but he is also frequently seen, driving them lo the encampment, with as much indifference as he used formerly to drive feis domestic cattle about his own fields, in the land of his nativity. Giving the buffalo rapid chase for a few minutes, they become so fatigued and completely exhausted, that they are driven from place to place, with as little difficulty as our common cattle. Botli the grown buffalo and the calves, are very frequently driven in this manner to the encampment, where they are readily slaughtered. By this time, the party had become greatly incensed with the officers, and had determined upon holding an election, for the purpose of electing other officers.

Accordingly an election was held, which resulted in the election of myself to the first, and a Mr. Lovejoy to the second office of our infant republic. This election gave some dissatisfaction, to a few of the party, especially the disaffected and disappointed office-holders and office-seekers, who now, together with a few others, separated themselves from the main body, and went on a few days in advance, to Fort Larimie, where they had been but a few days, when the main body arrived. Upon arriving at Forts Larimie and John, we were received in a very kind and friendly manner by the gentlemen of those forts, who extended every attention to us, while we remained in their vicinity. While here several of our party disposed of their oxen and wagons, taking horses in exchange. This they were induced to do, under the impression that their wagons could not be taken to Oregon, of which they were assured by the gentlemen of those forts, and other mountaineers.

Many others of the party, disposed of their cows and other cattle, which had become tenderfooted, as from this cause, it was supposed, that they would soon, be unable to travel; but we found by experience, that by continued driving, their hoofs became more and more hardened, until they had entirely recovered. Before leaving these forts, the disaffected of our party, proposed to unite their destinies again with ours ; but the main body being so exasperated with their former course, for some time refused their consent, yet in view of the fact, that they must either travel with us, remain at these forts, or return to the States, they were permitted to join us again, when, we were once more, enabled to continue our toilsome, yet interesting journey. Leaving these forts, we had traveled but a few miles, when we met a company of trappers and traders, from Fort Hall, on their way to the States, among whom was a Mr. Fitspateric, who joined out party, as a guide, and traveled with us, as such, to Green river.

From this genra*- man's long residence in the great western prairies, and the Rocky mo litains, he is eminently qualified as a guide, of which fact, we were fully convinced, from the many advantages which we derived from his valuable services. He was employed by Dr. White, who had received the appointment of Indian agent of Oregon, and who was under the impression, that our government would defray all such expenses ; which impression, however, I think, was entirely unfounded. Perfect unanimity of feeling and purpose, now having been fully restored, we passed on very agreeably, and with little or no interruption, until we arrived at Sweet-water, near Independence rock. Here we had the misfortune to lose a young man, by the name of Bailey, who was killed by the accidental discharge of a gun.

As the ball entered at the groins, and passed entirely through the body, it was readily seen, that the wound must prove fatal. He survived but about two hours, which, to him, were hours of excruciating suffering, and to'us, those of gloomy despondency and grief. He was an amiable young man, a native of the state of Massachusetts; latterly from the ter ritory of Iowa. Being a blacksmith by trade, the party sustained a great loss in his death ; not only, however, in reference to his services as a meremote hill or mountain. They presented themselves to us, in the most hostile attitude, rushing towards us with the greatest vehemence ; uttering the most terrific and demoniac yells ; and with the most frightful gestures, seeming to design nothing but our immediate destruction. With drawn bows and guns, they thus rapidly advanced, while we were cautiously, yet hastily descending the rocky heights ; winding our way with all pos sible haste, to the point at which we had left our guns and horses, at which place, ourselves and the Indians arrived at the same time, when we im mediately seized our guns, with a view of defending ourselves.

But upon seeing us take our guns, they at once lowered their bows and guns, and extended their hands in friendship. We hastily took their hands, but as hastily proceeded to mount, and to prepare for our departure. We had scarcely mounted, when they evinced a determination to prevent our leaving. One of them held Mr. Lovejoy's mule by the bit, while others laid hold of his person ; and others still, stood around with drawn guns and bows. As we were now consulting in reference to the proper course to be pursued, under these peculiar and critical circumstances, their repeated demands to dismount, and their increasing determination and violence, forcibly reminded us of the eminent importance of immediate and decisive action. Finally, we determined to effect our escape, after having slain as many of our assailants as we could, which, perhaps, might have been five of the seven, as we, together, had that number of shots, upon which we might rely.

Just, however, as we had arrived at the above determination, to our astonishment, we beheld the whole country, as far as we could see, completely covered with them, rapidly advancing towards us, with deafen ing whoops and terrific yells. They seemed to have sprung up from be hind every rock, to have come down from every hill, and mountain ; and to have emerged from every valley and ravine. Our purpose was now, of course, changed, for resistance was out of the question; to attempt an escape by flight, was dangerous in the extreme, and to accomplish it was utterly impossible ; we, therefore, dismounted, and determined to reconcile our minds to our fate, be that life or death. Every thing around us, appeared now, to indicate nothing but immediate torture, and ultimate death, to be inflicted by merciless savages.

Their numbers had, by this time, increased to about two or three hundred ; and they were still arriving in great numbers. We were treated with the utmost rudeness ; our guns and pistols were taken from us; when we were compelled to sit upon the ground, sur rounded by a numerous guard, who performed its whole duty, not per mitting us to change our positions in any manner, either to avoid danger, or to acquire comfort. From the time we were taken, every additional party that arrived, invariably offered some indignity to our persons, either by striking or attempting to strike us; with their bows, arrows, or the ram mers of their guns. The chief, however, protected me from this insult, for which purpose, he constantly stood or sat by me ; yet he appeared un able, or unwilling to protect my companion, who was repeatedly stricken with much violence.

An attempt was made even to take his life, which fortunately failed. This murderous attempt, was made by an Indian who had just arrived, on horseback, and who appeared to be much more infu riated than his predecessors in barbarity. Immediately upon his arrival, he rushed most furiously upon Mr. Lovejoy, suddenly pressing his gun against his breast, and snapping it, but as it missed fire, he was foiled in his fiendlike purpose. At this critical crisis, a number of Indians gathered around Mr. Lovejoy, evidently with a view of protecting him from fur ther insult and danger, when unparalleled consternation and confusion prevailed. While many were most vehemently insisting upon our imme diate destruction, others made the very welkin ring with their boisterous and clamorous declamations in our behalf, and no doubt Mr. Lovejoy and myself, owed our preservation entirely to their persuasive barbarous elo quence.

The influence of our eloquent defenders was so great, as to in duce the chief to order six of his men to fire upon him, who had thus rudely assailed my companion. They promptly obeyed the command, and had the offender not been making his escape with much rapidity, he would undoubtedly have been slain. Having galloped off about two hun dred yards, he commenced a most doleful lamentation, and becoming more and more enraged, he set up a tremendous howling and crying, at the same time, discharging his gun in the open air ; thus indicating, in terms not to be misunderstood, his determined and settled purpose of barbarous revenge. But opposition soon become so general, that he was convinced, that returning, with hostile purpose, would be attended with imminent danger. After some solicitation on the part of his friends, he was per mitted to return, upon the condition, of his abandoning his hostile pur pose, and conducting himself with proper Indian decorum.

Having returned, he kept a respectful distance from the principal scene of action, and either standing or sitting, in most sullen mood, he appeared to take no part or interest in the subsequent transactions. Some new source of dis cord appeared now, to have arisen, which gave rise to a most serious and animated discussion ; and judging from their wild and angry tones and gestures, their boisterous and fiendish declamation; some were again in sisting upon our decapitation, or destruction in some other manner, while others were again insisting upon our preservation. The discussion con tinued to become more and more animated ; the dissatisfaction became greater; the breach became wider; some great difference evidently ex isted, which, to us, appeared beyond a possibility of reconciliation ; the two contending parties stood forth against each other, in formidable array, as suming the most uncompromising and hostile attitude.

The noisy, wild discussion now ceased to some extent, and both parties were intensely en gaged in loading and putting their guns in order for action. At this crit ical time, for what purpose we knew not, twelve of them advanced thirty or forty yards from the main body, towards Independence rock, where they stood for a few moments, when all at once, and without any order, they discharged their pieces in the direction of a small rock, which was between them and Independence rock. We soon discovered that the victim of their wrath, was a dog which had followed us, without our know ledge, upon this, our unfortunate excursion. Upon firing at the dog, a most frightful scene ensued ; one universal burst of indignation or exulta tion, we knew not which, resounded through the air with most terrific and fiendish roar ; when all but the few who stood around us, as we sat upon the ground, rushed in quick succession, in single file, towards their slain victim, each as he passed which, cither thrust his spear or lance into the dead carcase, struck it with his arrow, the rammer of his gun, or kicked it ; the thrust, blow or kick, being in every instance, attended with a most demoniac shriek.

They continued to repeat this frightful scene, for fifteen or twenty minutes, setting out from a point near us, they formed a vail circuit around their victim, returning to the same point, when they arrived at which, they invariably uttered the most indescribable whoops and yells, which could emanate only from the wild confusion and raging mad ness of aboriginal barbarism. Seme degree of quietude was again restored, but, in the mean time, my horse and Mr. Lovejoy's mule had been stripped of their saddles, bridles and martingals ; all the rings and straps had been cut from them ; my holster had been cut and spoiled ; and our arms were scattered, we knew not where, nor was it very material where, for we had very little use for arms, and about as little for legs, as we were not permitted to stand or walk.

Many were again, becoming more boisterous, when, fortunate for us, a number of elderly men, who were evidently, men of high distinction, just arrived, for whom, it appeared that the party had been thus long wait ing. It was now, late in the afternoon, and we were taken early in the morning ; although the time of our detention, thus far, was short, it ap peared long to us ; hours were, to us, as days ; the sun seemed reluctant to go down upon the wrath of our infuriated tormentors. A very elderly man, who was one of those that bad just arrived, and who appeared to be the chief, in highest authority, after some general remarks, gave orders to march, to obey which, all were soon busily engaged in making their arrangements. Horses were provided for us, but not our own ; and soon, many of the party were on their march, but in the opposite direction from our company.

The old chief, just referred to, happened, at this time, to pass near me, when I extended my hand to him, and accosted him in the ordinary manner, " How do you do ? " He readily accepted my hand, and replied in the Indian language. There was a very small eccentric looking man, with the chief, whom I supposed to be a Canadian half breed. I also offered him my hand, with the same salutation, to which he replied, in the English language, " How do you do?" To my in quiry whether he could speak the English language, he replied " yes." I then asked him if he would request the chief, and all those men to stop, and tell them that I wished to talk with them, before they went farther. He again replied " yes," and briefly addressed the chief, who commenced a loud harangue, to his men, and soon, those who had commenced their march returned, when all dismounted ; and sitting upon the ground, side by side, formed a vast circle.

The chief indicated by signs, that I and my companion, should sit near him, which we did, when I informed them that we were from the United States ; that we were sent by our and their "great father," the president, that we were going to the "great wa ters," the Pacific, there to settle and remain ; that we were friendly with all the " red men," and that we wished to, and would treat them kindly. It had been reported among them, by some Canadians, at Fort Larimie, that we were going to join their enemies, the Black-feet, with whom they were then at war. This, I remarked, they must be satisfied, was false, especially as we had our women and children with us, of which they were aware, as they had seen them, at Fort Larimie and elsewhere. White men, I remarked, did not take their women and children when they went to war, nor did Indians.

Your party, I said, is a war party, and you have no women or children, because they can not fight. I then assured them, if they would go with us, to our party, we would convince them of our friendly designs ; that we would trade with them, and make them presents; that if they went to our party, it became necessary to act out very soon, as it passed this place very early in the morning, and it was then late in the day. As soon as I had concluded, the interpreter to whom I have alluded, arose and addressed the chief for a few minutes, when he resumed his seat, but what he said, we were, of course, unable to de termine, as he spoke entirely in the Indian language, yet, our opinion was, that he was repeating what I had said. This opinion was confirmed, from the fact that immediately upon his resuming his seat, the chief arose and spoke for about two minutes, apparently, with much feeling and determination.

At the conclusion of his remarks, he evidently issued his order, requiring all to remount, and to change their course in the di rection of our party, for all immediately mounted, and resumed their march in that direction. A much more friendly feeling was now mani fested towards us ; we were directed to take our position, in the ranks, at the side of the chief We soon crossed a small creek, when I indicated to the chief, by pointing to the water, then putting my fingers to my lips, that I was thirsty ; upon observing which, he directed a man to dismount. and bring me some water, which direction was readily obeyed. Upon arriving with the water, the man first offered it to the chief, who refused to take it, but directed him to give it to me ; which he did, when I drank and returned him the cup, which he again offered to the chief, who again refused it, directing him to give it to Mr. Lovejoy, who having drunk, the chief then received it and drank.

We now traveled on, with much rapidity, the " pipe of peace," being constantly passed around, commencing with the chief, then to myself, Mr. Lovejoy, and the principal men, who were permitted to ride side by side with us, and who, I suppose, were subordinate officers. Having traveled in this manner, about two hours, the spies came gal loping from the hills, informing the chief that they had made some discov eries, which, whatever they were, were of such importance, that the chief, at once, ordered them all to dismount, which they did ; and com menced examining their guns, re-loading those which had been discharg ed ; examining their flints and locks, and putting their bows, arrows, spears and lances in proper order. Our guns were then given to us, and we were required to re-load them ; when all painted their faces and bodies, as is their practice previous to going to war ; after which we were all ordered to remount, and march, which we did ; but, we marched with much more confusion and disorder than before.

The whole aspect of things, appeared to have undergone a material and fearful change ; from harmonious, peaceable and friendly, to the most tumultuous and hostile. Although we were permitted to ride, side by side, with the chief, as be fore, yet, I frequently saw the Indians approach Mr. Lovejoy, from be hind, with drawn spears, lances, or guns, as if with a view of terminating his existence. And Mr. Lovejoy informed me, that he observed the same conduct in reference to myself, of which, however, I had no knowledge. I here saw, for the first time, that what the spies had discovered, was our company, the tents and wagons of which were then in full view. It appeared evident to us, from what we had already seen and what was then transpiring, that they contemplated an attack upon our party, and we were soon confirmed in this opinion, from what subsequently followed.

When they had approached within two or three hundred rods of our tamp, the young men, on each side of the chief, commenced a most funous charge, and, at the same time, uttering the mo3t alarming and frantic yells, which left no further doubt upon our minds, but that they intended to attack our camp ; unless turned from their purpose, by some fortuitous circumstance. Perceiving the inevitable tendency of this course, I suggested to the chief, by signs, that he should require his men to discontinue their charge ; but he was deaf to my snggestion. I then took hold of his bridle, stopped his horse, and insisted that they must stop, otherwise, our men would be compelled to repel the assault. Being, by this time, satisfied that there was, perhaps, more danger than he had anticipated, he addressed his men in a most animated manner, apparently directing them to resume their former friendly attitude, or at least, to discontinue their charge.

This order was finally obeyed, though evidently, with much reluctance. Observing that our men were in the most confused state of excitement, I signified to the chief, that I would go to our camp, to which, however, he refused his assent ; but being determined to attempt it, at all hazards, I disregarded his dissent, and galloped away. Two young warriors, soon came galloping up by my side, insisting that I should return ; but I answered them merely by telling them, by signs, that they must go back, or our men would shoot and kill them. This had the desired effect: they returned, and I increased my velocity, in the direction of our company. Upon arriving at the camp, I found the greatest imaginable confusion prevailing ; some insisting that they would fire, others opposing it: all was noisy, alarming disorder.

Mr. Lovejoy now having also arrived in camp, and order having been, to some extent, restored, I proceeded, through our Canadian interpreter, to make certain demands upon the chief. The first demand was, that he, immediately, send to our camp, my horse, and all other property which his men had kept, which belonged either to Mr. Lovejoy or myself. This demand ha readily complied with, as far as he was able ; for, as he said, he could find but one of my pistols, which he returned, together with every thing else which his men had taken, with the exception of Mr. Lovejoy's bridle and martingal, which he pretended were beyond his reach, and not to be found. I then demanded, that he march his men away to a certain point of timber, and encamp during the night; to comply with which, he, at first, positively refused, insisting that an old chief, in his own country, had a right to encamp wherever he pleased ; but he finally consented, when I informed him that when he had encamped, as directed, he would be permitted to return, with his chiefs and principal men ; and smoke, with us, the "pipe of peace," when we would trade with them, and make him some presents.