The Emigrant's-guide to Oregon and California

Front matter

r the y& EMIGRANTS' GUIDE, TO § OREGON AND CALIFORNIA, CONTAINING SCBKES AND INCIDENTS OP A PARTY OF j OREGON EMIGRANTS; A DESCRIPTION OF OREGON; SCENES AND INCIDENTS OP A PARTY OP CALIFORNIA EMIGRANTS; AND A DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA; WITH ■ A DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT ROUTES TO 1 THOSE COUNTRIES; , AMD ALL NECESSARY INFORMATION RELATIVE TO THE EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES, AND THE METHOD kOF TRAVELING.. BY^LANSFORD W. HASTINGS, Leader of the Oregon and California Emigrants of 1842. CINCINNATI: PUBLISHED BY GEORGE CONCLIN, STEREOTYPED BY SHEPARD & CO. SL 1845. J, Price 60 Cents, per single copy, or go per dozen. Address the Publisher, post paid, No. 39, Main Street, Cincinnati. O. THE EMIGRANTS' GUIDE, TO OREGON AND CALIFORNIA, CONTAINING SCENES AND INCIDENTS OF A PARTY OF OREGON EMIGRANTS; A DESCRIPTION OF OREGON; SCENES AND INCIDENTS OF A PARTY OF CALIFORNIA EMIGRANTS ; AND A DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT ROUTES TO THOSE COUNTRIES; AND ALL NECESSARY INFORMATION RELATIVE TO THE EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES, AND THE METHOD OF TRAVELING.

BY LANSFORD W. HASTINGS, Leader of the Oregon and California Emigrants of 1842. CINCINNATI : PUBLISHED BY GEORGE CONCLIN, STEREOTYPED BY 8HEPARD & CO. 184a Entered. according to Act of CongrcsSjin the year 1845, By LANSFORD Vs- HASTINGS, in the Clerk's office of the district Court of Ohio.

Preface

. The importance of a work of this kind, has been frequently suggested to the author, by innumerable correspondents, in almost every portion of the Union, who have, from time to time, addres sed numerous letters to him, propounding countless inierrogations in reference to all the different topics, to which the following pages are devoted. Many of these correspondents the author has invariably answered; while many others, he has, from the pressure of business, found it not only extremely inconvenient, but entirely impracticable to answer, in any other manner than that which is here adopted. The above, and innumerable other manifestations, indicative of the extraordinary avidity with which all information of this nature, is every where sought, have been strong incentives to the present undertaking.

But the fact, that among all the various works now extant, which treat of Ore gon and California, there are none which contain that practical information, which is so much desired by the enquiring emigrant: and the fact, of the utter destitution, of all information in reference to the different routes to those countries, the equipments, supplies, and the method of traveling, have been the chief inducements to its early inception and completion. Notwithstanding the paramount importance of these subjects, nothing has heretofore, been written in relation to them, excepting the few articles, occasionally found in our western newspapers and journals, which are usually written by traveling correspondents; and which, from their necessary brevity, are found entirely inadequate to the general demand.

The design of these pages is not to treat in extenso of Oregon and California, but merely to give a succint, and at the same time, practical description of those countries; embracing a brief description of their mountains, rivers, lakes, bays, harbours,

PREFACE.

. islands, soil, climate, health, productions, improvements, population, government, market, trade and commerce: a description of the different routes; and all necessary information relative to the equipment, supplies, and the method of traveling. Hence it will be readily seen, that they will be found much more conducive to the interest of the emigrating portion of our community; yet, it is confidently hoped, that they may prove equally valuable and interesting to all those, who may deem it proper to give them an attentive perusal. This may, with the more propriety be hoped, as all excrescences have been cautiously lopped off, leaving scarcely any thing more than a mere collection of interesting, important and practical facts. In collecting the materials for this little work, the author has had recource to all available and authentic sources; yet, for most of the statistical information relative to both Oregon and California, he is indebted chiefly to the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the missionaries in Oregon; the gentlemen of the same company, and other foreigners of undoubted veracity in California.

All other information than that derived from the sources above alluded to, he has acquired, by his own personal observation, during an excursive journeying, of about two years duration, through those remote, yet highly interesting regions. Sincerely hoping that the following pages, may prove useful to all those, who contemplate emigrating to Oregon or California, and interesting at least, if not usetul also, to the general reader, they are now submitted to the public; with the assurance that, if they shall be found either useful to the former, or interesting to the latter, the author will, in a great measure, be compensated for all the labor and expense, which he has incurred, in their preparation for the press; and thus, his most sanguine expectations will be fully realized. LANSFORD W. HASTINGS. TO OREGON AND CALIFORNIA.

Chapter I. Scenes And Incidents Of

A PARTY OF OREGON EMIGRANTS The Rendezvous; convention of traders, trappers and emigrants at. Destination of emigrants; increase of; number of. Organization. Departure from Independence. Anticipated harmony. Contrariety of feeling. Proposition to enact laws; reason for their enactment. Violation of Indian rights. Offender arranged; his trial. Legislative committee; report of. A Decree; opposition lo; abrogation of. Disease and death. Return to the States. Meeting of traders. Buffalo calces. Herds of buffalo; immensity of A buffalo hunt. Rebuff of " green horns." Success of mountaineers. Driving buffalo to camp. An election; result of. Division of party. Arrival at Fort Larimie. Cattle and wagons disposed of. Parties united. Leaving Fort Larimie. Meeting of traders and trappers. Mr. Filzpatrick, employed as guide.

Unanimity restored. Arrival at Sweet-water. A death. Interment. Re-election of officers. An order; importance of. Inexperience. The author long having had an anxious desire to visit those wild re gions upon the great Pacific, which had now become the topic of con versation in every circle, and in reference to which, speculations both rational and irrational were everywhere in vogue, now determined to ac complish his desired object: for which purpose he repaired to Indepen dence, Mo., which place was the known rendezvous of the Santa Fe traders, and the trappers of the Rocky mountains. Having arrived at Independence, he was so fortunate as to find, not only the Santa Fe traders, and the Rocky mountaiu trappers, but also a number of emigrants, consisting of families and young men, who had convened there with the view of crossing the Rocky mountains, and were waiting very patiently until their number should be so increased as to afford protection and in sure the safety of all, when they contemplated setting out together, for their favorite place of destination, Oregon territory.

The number of emigrants continued to increase with such rapidity, that on the 15th day of May, our company consisted of one hundred and sixty persons, giving us a force of eighty armed men, which was thought ample for our pro tection. Having organized, and having ascertained that all had provided themselves with the necessary quantum of provisions and ammunition. as well as such teams and wagons as the company had previously determined to be essential, and indispensable, and all things else being in readiness, on the 16th day of May, in the year 1842, all as one man, united in interest, united in feeling, we were, en route, for the long de sired El Dorado of the West. . . Now, all was high glee, jocular hilarity, and happy anticipation, as we thus darted forward into the wild expanse, of the untrodden regions ot the "western world."

The harmony of feeling, the sameness of purpose, and the identity of interest, which here existed, seemed to indicate nothing but continued order, harmony and peace, amid all the trying scenes inci dent to our long and toilsome journey. But we had proceeded only a few days travel, from our native land of order and security, when the "American character " was fully exhibited. All appeared to be deter mined to govern, but not to be governed. Here we were, without law. without order, and without restraint ; in a state of nature, amid the con fused, revolving fragments of elementary society ! Some were sad, while others were merry; and while the brave doubted, the timid trembled! Amid this confusion, it was suggested by our captain, that we "call a halt," and pitch our tents, for the purpose of enacting a code of laws, for the future government of the company.

The suggestion was promptly complied with, when all were required to appear in their legislative ca pacities. When thus convened, it was urged, by the captain, as a reason why we should enact a code of laws, that an individual of the party,had proposed to capture an Indian horse, and that he had made arrangements to accomplish his sinful purpose, by procuring a rope, and setting out with that view. In view of this alarming state of facts, it was urged by the over-legal and over-righteous, that the offending party should be im mediately put upon his trial, for this enormous and wanton outrage upon Indian rights. This suggestion was also readily complied with, and the offender was soon arraigned, who, without interposing a plea to the juris diction, declared himself ready for trial, upon the "general issue."

The investigation now commenced, during which, several speeches were de livered, abounding with severe and bitter denunciations of such highly criminal conduct, as that with which the prisoner at the bar of imaginary justice, stood charged. But it was urged on the part of the accused, that in whatever light his conduct might be viewed, by the advocates of "ex treme right," it amounted to no crime at all ; that to talk of taking an In dian horse, was neither malum in se, nor malum prohibitum. It was not criminal in itself, for in itself it was nothing, as he had done nothing. It was not criminal because prohibited, for in our infant state of society, we had no prohibitory code. The jury consisted of the whole company, who now with very little hesitancy, and almost unanimously, rendered their verdict of "not guilty," when the accused was discharged, and permitted to go hence, without day.

Thus terminated the first jury trial, in our little community, whose government was extremely simple, yet purely democratic. This investigation, terminating as it did, afforded no valid reason for law-making, yet all being present with that view, and many being extremely anxious to accomplish the object for which they assem bled, whether it was necessary or not, now proceeded to the discharge of the ne\v,arduous and responsible duty of legislation. A committee°was therefore, appointed to draft a code of laws, for the future government of he company. This committee, contrary to the most sanguine expecta- ■''ins of the movers in this affair, reported that, in its opinion, no code ol laws was requisite, other than the moral code, enacted by the Creator of the universe, and which is found recorded in the breast of every man.

This report was adopted by an overwhelming majority, the consequence of which was, that no code of human laws was enacted ; still there appeared to be a strong determination on the part of some, to do something in the way of legislating. In accordance with this determination, a de cree was passed, which required the immediate and the indiscriminate ex termination of the whole canine race, old and young, male and female, wherever they might be found, within our jurisdiction. This decree was passed by a very small majority, and it gave great dissatisfaction, especially to the owners of the animals whose extermination it contemplated. Those who favored its enforcement, insisted that the subjects of "the de cree of death," however athletic they might be, could not possibly be taken through; that they would die before they had traveled half the distance; and that, by their incessant barking and howling, they would no tify the Indians of our locality when encamped.

On the other hand, it was insisted that, if they died on the way, that would be the loss of the owners, and, consequently, their business; and that if they did notify the Indians of our position, they would also notify us of theirs ; and hence, the conclusion was drawn, that the advantages more than counterbalanced the disadvantages. Notwithstanding this conclusion, several dogs were slain under the inconsiderate decree, when the opposition became more general and determined. The owners of the most valuable mastiffs now declared in the most positive terms, that "if any man should kill their dogs, they would kill him, regardless of all consequences." The "dog killers," however, now went out "armed and equipped," as the decree re quired, with a full determination to discharge their honorable and danger ous duty ; but they were promptly met by the owners, who were also "armed and equipped," and prepared for any emergency.

At this im portant crisis, the captain thought proper to convene, the company again, in its legislative capacity, which being done, the "dog decree," as it was called, was almost unanimously abrogated. This was our first and last effort at legislation. This legislative rebuff, however, was not the only difficulty which we here encountered. Our misfortunes were heightened by disease and death. The wife and child of a Mr. Lancaster were taken very ill, and tlie child soon died. Mrs. Lancaster remained very low for several days, during which time, the company remained in camp ; but as there were no prospects of her immediate recovery, and as any considerable delay in this section, might be attended with fatal consequences to the whole company, Mr. Lancaster determined to return to the States, which he could very safely do, as we were but a few days travel from the Missouri line, and as we had passed no hostile Indians.

Upon arriving at this determination, we continued our journey, and Mr. Lancaster returned to the States, where he safely arrived, as I have since learned. We passed on now very agreeably, with the exception of the occasional expression of dissatisfaction with our officers, which, however well founded, grated harshly upon the ears of the order-observing, and law-abiding portion of the company. In a yery few days, we met a company of traders from Fort Larimie, on their way to the States, with their returns of furs and buffalo robes, which they had accumulated during the previous year. These furs and robes were transported in wagons, drawn by oxen. Here many of our party for the first time, saw the buffalo. The only ones, however, which they saw here, were eight or ten buffalo calves, which the traders had domesticated for the St. Louis market; and so completely domesticated were they, that they followed the cows, which had been taken out for that purpose, with very little trouble to the drivers.

This meeting afforded a very favorable opportunity for forwarding letters to the States, of which many of the party were happy to avail themselves. We were informed, by this party, that we would rind the buffalo upon the Platte, a few days travel below the confluence of its north and south branches : upon arri ving at which place, we did find them in the greatest abundance imaginable. No adequate conception can be formed of the immensity of the numerous herds, which here abound. The entire plains and prairies are densely covered, and completely blackened with them, as far as the most acute vision extends. Now the most feverish anxiety, and confused ex citement prevails. Those who are accustomed to buffalo hunting, are almost instantly upon their fleet horses, and in chase, while those unac customed to such scenes, " green horns," as they are called, are in the greatest confusion, adjusting saddles and martingals, tightening girths and spurs, loading guns and pistols, and giving their friends, wives and children, all manner of assurances of their unparalleled success.

They too, are now ready, and like the mountaineer, they dart away, as with the wings of light ; but they soon observe that they are far in the rear of the mountaineer, who is now amid the buffalo, slaying them on the right and left, in the front and rear. But stimulated by the loud thundering and clattering sounds, produced by the confused rushing forth of the thousands of frightened buffalo, as well as by the extraordinary success of the mountaineer, they ply the spur with renewed energy ; and giving their fiery steeds loose rein, they are soon in the vicinity of the scene of action, but not in the scene of action, for to their utter sur prise, and intolerable vexation, their heretofore faithful steeds, now de cline the contest; and notwithstanding the renewed application of the spur, they merely bound, snort and plunge, but keep a respectful distance, until they arrive in the midst of the slain buffalo, which have been left by the mountaineer.

Here their timidity is increased, and taking a new fright, they dart and leap away with great velocity, and notwithstanding the firm and steady restraint of the sturdy rider, they soon meet the moving caravan, to the infinite gratification of the mountaineer, the utter astonishment of the " green horn," and the sad disappointment of the friends, wives and children, who had anticipated so much from the first grand debut in buffalo hunting. The experienced hunter is soon seen re turning to the camp, with his horse heavily laden with the choicest portions of some of the numerous buffalo which he has slain. In order that the company may now obtain a supply of the delicious fresh meat, with which the plains are strewed, it is directed to encamp, which having been done, all are soon abundantly supplied.

Having been a few days among the buffalo, and their horses having become accustomed to these terrific scenes, even the "green horn," is enabled, not only to kill tlie buffalo with much expertness, but he is also frequently seen, driving them to the encampment, with as much indifference as he used formerly to drive his domestic cattle about his own fields, in the land of his nativity. Giving the buffalo rapid chase for a few minutes, they become so fatimied and completely exhausted, that they are driven from place to place, with as little difficulty as our common cattle. Both the grown buffalo and the calves, are very frequently driven in this manner to the encampment, where they are readily slaughtered. By this time, the party had become greatly incensed with the officers, and had determined upon holding an election, for the purpose of electing other officers.

Accordingly an election was hr-ld, which resulted in the election of myself to the first, and a Mr. Lovejoy to the second office of our infant republic. This election gave some dissatisfaction, to a few of the party, especially the disaffected and disappointed office-holders and office-seekers, who now, together with a few others, separated themselves from the main body, and went on a few days in advance, to Fort Larimie, where thev had been but a few days, when the main body arrived. Upon arriving at Forts Larimie and John, we were received in a very kind and friendlv manner by the gentlemen of those forts, who extended every attention to us, while we remained in their vicinity. While here several of our partv disposed of their oxen and wagons, taking horses in exchange. This thev were induced to do, under the impression that their wagons could not be taken to Oregon, of which they were assured by the gentlemen of those forts, and other mountaineers.

Many others of the party, disposed of their cows and other cattle, which had become tender footed, as from this cause, it was supposed, that thev would soon, be unable to travel; but we found by experience, that by continued driving, their hoofs became more and more hardened, until they had entirely recovered. Before leaving these forts, the disaffected of our party, proposed to unite their destinies again with ours; but the main body being so exasperated with their former course, for some time refused their consent, yet in view of the fact, that they must either travel with us, remain at these forts, or return to the States, they were permitted to join us again, when, we were once more, enabled to continue our toilsome, yet interesting journey. Leaving these forts, we had traveled hut a few miles, when we met a company of trappers and traders, from Fort Hall, on their way to the Slates, among whom was a Mr. Fitspateric, who loined our partv, as a guide, and traveled with us, as such, to Green river.

From this gentleman's long residence in the great western prairies, and the Rocky mountains, he is eminently qualified as a guide, of which fact, we were fullyconvinced, from the manv advantages which we derived from his valuable services. He was employed by Dr. White, who had received the appointment of Indian agent of Oregon, and who was under the impression, that our government would defray all such expenses ; which impression, however, I think, was entirely unfounded. Perfect unanimity of feeling and purpose, now having been fully restored, we passed on very agreeably, and with little or no interruption, until we arrived at Sweet-water, near Independence rock. Here we had the misfortune to lose a young man, by the name of Bailey, who was killed by the accidental discharge of a gun. As the ball entered at the groins, and passed entirely through the body, it was readily seen, that the wound must prove fatal.

He survived but about two hours, which, to him, were hours of excruciating suffering, and to us, those of gloomy despondency and grief. He was an amiable young man, a native of the state of Massachusetts; latterly from the ter ritory of Iowa. Being a blacksmith by trade, the party sustained a great loss in his death ; not only, however, in reference to his services as a mechanic, but also, in reference to the important protection, which each afforded to the other, in this wild region of savage ferocity. While he survived, every possible exertion was made to afford him relief, but all to no purpose. He constantly insisted that it was utterly impossible for him to recover, that immediate death was inevitable. The physician now gave up all hopes of his recovery; his voice faltered ; death was depicted upon his countenance : and every thing seemed to indicate a speedy re turn of his immortal spirit, " to God who gave it," yet, even now, he was to be heard, urging us all, in the most emphatic language, to be more cau tious in the future, and, thereby, avoid similar accidents.

He now took his " eternal leave " of all, in the most solemn and affecting manner, at the same time, most earnestly admonishing us, " to prepare for a like fate, should it be our unhappy lot, and, at all events, to make a speedy prepa tion for death and eternity ! " This was truly a most solemn and awful scene ; and these admonitions, coming from such a source, and under such circumstances, must have produced an impressive and lasting effect! He expired in the evening, and the burial took place the next morning. The grave having been prepared, at the foot of a mountain of considerable altitude, about eighty rods southwest, from the usual encampment, we now followed to the grave, the second corpse of our little company ! As we thus marched along, in solemn procession, the deepest gloom and solemnity, was depicted upon every countenance, and pungent and heart felt grief pervaded every breast !

While we were silently and solemnly moving on, under arms, " to the place of the dead," the sentinels were to be seen, standing at their designated posts, alternately meditating upon the solemnity of the passing scene, and casting their eyes watchfully around as if to descry the numerous and hostile foe, with whom'we were everywhere surrounded, and thus, to avert accumulating danger ! At the same time, the young man, who was the unwilling instrument of this, our trying calamity, was also to be seen, walking to and fro, suffering the most ex treme mental agony ; apparently noticing nothing that was transpiring around ; seemingly unconscious of every thing, but his own unhappy existence, and the sad departure of his, and our lamented friend ! The ordinary rites, after interment, having been performed at the grave, the company returned in the same solemn manner, to the encampment, where all sat down in silent mournful mood, contemplating the many trying scenes of the desolating past, and anticipating the dreaded fearful future !

Having spent several days at this place, and having, in the mean time, procured an additional supply of meat, re-elected our officers, and made all other necessary preparatory arrangements, we, once more, set out up on our dismal journey; when I thought proper to issue an order, which required all, in the suture, to carry their guns uncapped or primed. The propriety and importance of this order, were clearly manifested, by the sad occurrence just related, hence it was readily and promptly obeyed. Had such an order been previously issued and enforced, our deceased friend might still have lived, and instead of sadness and dismay, hilarity and joy might have pervaded our community; but we, unfortunately, like thousands of others, were mere sophomores in the great school of experience. The fates, laking advantage of our want of experience, appeared really to have conspired against us ; surrounding us everywhere, with the most inauspicious circumstances ; and crowding our lonely way with innumerable and unforseen dangers, and with death, as if determined to deluge the whole western wilds, with human misery, and to engulf us, their defenceless victims, in the deep, dark abyss of inextricable wo ; and thus, to feast upon our misfortunes, and exult triumphantly over our weakness and inexperience !

Sweet-water, was a bitter water to us ; if it even possessed any sweetness, it had lost it all now, for it afforded us nothing but the extreme bitterness of sore affliction and deep distress.

Chapter II. Scenes And Incidents Of

A PARTY OF OREGON EMIGRANTS- Departure from Sweet-water. Independence rock; examination of; inscription of names upon. Descried by Indians; hostile attitude of; taken prisoner by. Determination to escape. Change of purpose. Rude treatment. Attempt to take life. Great differences among the Indians. Partial reconciliation. A rictim slain. A terrific scene. Arrival of elderly men. Orders to march. Fortunate occurrence. A consultation; result of . Indian politeness. Discovery by spies. Indications of hostilities. Discovery of our party; contemplated attack upon; excitement in. Demands upon the chief. Reconciliation. Smoking the "pipe of peace." "Making meal." An accident. Hunters robbed. Hostile movements. Guarding against. Increased numbers of Indians; their flags. Battle array. A " smoke" and " talk."

Friendship restored. A trial; its result. Arrival at Green river. Leaving of wagons. Division of party. Prophetic speculations. Solemnity of parting. Arrival at Fort Hall. A meeting called. Determination to leave wagons. Preparation to leave Fort Hall. Anticipated difficulties. Arrival at Fort Boisia. A death. Arrival at Dr. Whitman's mission. Divine service. An Indian sermon. Character of the doctor. Passing Fort Wallawalla The methodist mission at the dalles. Arrival at the lower settlements in Oregon. Reflections upon the past, present and future. Dissatisfaction. Kindness of Dr. McLoughlin. Determination to leave the country. The company having left our unfortunate encampment, on Sweet-wa ter, early in the morning, soon passed Independence rock, which will be described, in the description of the routes.

A Mr. Lovejoy and myself stopped at this rock, with a view of spending a few hours, in examining its peculiar structure, as well as to observe the various names, there to be seen, of individuals who have passed that way ; and at the same time, to inscribe our own names, with the number of our company, the date of our passing ; and whatever else might occur to us, as being serviceable to those who might subsequently pass that way. Having provided ourselves with materials for lettering, we tied our horses at the foot of this extraor dinary rock, where we also left our guns, and commenced our toilsome assent up the rocky declivity. The company had, in the mean time, gone on, supposing that we would find no difficulty in overtaking them, whenever we had accomplished our purpose. We had scarcely completed our labors, when we were surprised by the sudden appearance of seven Indians, who had descried us from some remote hill or mountain.

They presented themselves to us, in the most hostile attitude, rushing towards us with the greatest vehemence ; uttering the most terrific and demoniac yells ; and with the most frightful gestures, seeming to design nothing but our immediate destruction. With drawn bows and guns, they thus rapidly advanced, while we were cautiously, yet hastily descending the rocky heights; winding our way with all pos sible haste, to the point at which we had left our guns and horses, at which place, ourselves and the Indians arrived at the same time, when we im mediately seized our guns, with a view of defending ourselves. But upon seeing us take our guns, they at once lowered their bows and guns, and extended their hands in friendship. We hastily took their hands, but as hastily proceeded to mount, and to prepare for our departure.

We had scarcely mounted, when they evinced a determination to prevent our leaving. One of them held Mr. Lovejoy's mule by the bit, while others laid hold of his person ; and others still, stood around with drawn guns and bows. As we were now consulting in reference to the proper course to be pursued, under these peculiar and critical circumstances, their repeated demands to dismount, and their increasing determination and violence, forcibly reminded us of the eminent importance of immediate and decisive action. Finally, we determined to effect our escape, after having slain as many of our assailants as we could, which, perhaps, might have been five of the seven, as we, together, had that number of shots, upon which we mi^ht rely. Just, however, as we had arrived at the above determination, to our astonishment, we beheld the whole country, as far as we could see, completely covered with them, rapidly advancing towards us, with deafen ing whoops and terrific yells.