Researches in Greece and the Levant

Front matter

RESEARCHES IN GREECE AND THE LEVANT. BY THE REV JOHN HARTLEY, M.A. MISSIONARY IN THE MEDITERRANEAN, IN CONNECTION WITH THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY. " If the Son shall make you free, ye i-hall be free indeed."— John viii. 36 SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND REVISED. PUBLISHED BY R. B. SEELEY AND W. BURNSIDE : AND SOLD BY L. B. SEELEY AND SONS, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXXXIII. L. B. SEELEY AND SONS, WESTON GREEN, THAMES DITJ.ON, SURREY. The Journals appended to this Work have previ ously appeared in the Missionary Register and the Church Missionary Record, with the exception of some few additions and verbal alterations. The acknowledgements of the Author are due to Sir William Gell, for the Map of the Morea, which has been lithographed from his " Itinerary;" and to the Rev. J. Arundell, and the Publisher of his Work, for the Map of the Seven Apocalyptic Churches.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. Map of the Route of the Rev. J. Hartley, on a Visit to the Apocalyptic Churches to face p. 223 Map of the Morea; with Routes of the Rev. J. Hartley p. CONTENTS. Besearcfjes in ©recce anH tfje ICebant. PACK. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 1

Chapter I. Calamities Of Turkey

Turkey the most unhappy of all countries — Deserted Burial-grounds- Desolations of Ephesus — Laodicea— Sardis— Diminution of population at Constantinople — Corfu — Ægina — Colossæ — Discovery of Apamea and Sagalassus — Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other places mentioned in Scripture, not yet discovered — Reflections — Destruction of the Janissaries— Massacre of Greeks— of twenty-seven Samiots at "Vourla — Total desolation of Psara — Disappearance of Mahomedans and their religion from the Morea — Unhappy condition of Women in Turkey— Polygamy— Slavery of Greek Females —Scene of distress at Magnesia

Chapter II. Calamities Of Turkey

Desolate state of the Morea, illustrated by Scripture— Tripolitza, and the open country, after the last incursion of Ibrahim Pasha— Towns demolished — Soil in a state of devastation — Highways abandoned — Khans burnt— Cattle destroyed— Churches in ruins— Olive-trees cut down — The inhabitants taking refuge in caves and mountains — Fires in Turkey — Terrible conflagration at Constantinople in 1826 — Families resident in the tombs of the ancient Æginetans — Reflections on the comparative privileges of our country — Respect paid to Englishmen in Turkey— Execution of Divine menaces against sin, exemplified in the sufferings of the Oriental Church, and in the decline of Turkish power p 23 A RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. Primitive and Modern Christianity of the East contrasted— Inadequate views of human danger — Greek Preachers — Justification— Regeneration— Worship of the Virgin— Prayers addressed to her— Titles given her— Practical confidence in her assistance evidenced during an action with Pirates— Worship of Saints— St. Spiridion and other Patron Saints of the Ionian Islands— Singular circumstance connected with the Worship of the Archangel Michael at Colossæ — Facility with which new Saints are worshipped— Two Spezziotes martyred at Scio, and sainted— Modern Greek Martyrdoms 36

Chapter IV. Religion Of The Modern Greeks

Picture-Worship — Description of the Pictures in Churches — Modes of Worshipping them — Pictures in Houses — Emolument and imposition of Painters in the Sale of Pictures, illustrated by an anecdote — Arguments against the Worship of Saints and Pictures from the Septuagint — from Epiphanius — from Chrysostom— Greek ideas of Fasting — Fasts observed by Pirates — The Four Lents — Articles of food prohibited 54

Chapter V. Religion Of The Modern Greeks

The Seven Mysteries or Sacraments — Baptism— Mode of Immersion — Classical names given to children— The Chrism— Transubstantiation recently introduced amongst the Greeks — Mode of celebrating the Lord's Supper— Azymists and Enzymists— Confession, and absolution —Abuses arising from these doctrines— Anecdote of a Monk who confessed to the author— Excess of precaution against the marriage of relatives— The Holy Oil— Animosities of the Greeks and Latins- Procession of the Holy Ghost— View of Purgatory— Marriage of the Clergy— Monasticism— Concluding remarks VI. MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. Greek Character not inferior to Turkish — Violation of the Third Commandment — Anecdote of a Greek Priest, who swore with delight on procuring the New Testament — The Fourth Commandment— The Sixth — Dissensions during the Revolution— Rival Chieftains of the Morea — Vengeance inflicted on Turks — The Turk burnt alive by a Greek Woman — Union of Cruelty and Superstition at Spezzie — Instance of Generosity to Turkish Prisoners — The Seventh Commandment—Divorces — Kindness of Brothers to their Sisters — Freedom from Drunkenness — Rapine and Piracy — Greek Klephts — Robbery of an Ecclesiastic of Rank— Murder of a Bishop by the Maniotes — Suppression of Piracy on the arrival of Capo d'lstria 80

Chapter VII. Moral Character Of Greeks

Falsehood of Greeks not superior to Turkish— Turkish False-witnesses — Conduct of Sir Thomas Maitland to Greek Judges — IllustratioD of St Paul's Character of the Cretans— Disadvantages under which the Oriental Clergy have laboured— Excellent Character of two Greek Ecclesiastics, and interesting Adventure with one of them in the Island of Cefalonia 96

Chapter VIII. Cemeteries, And Rites Of Burial

Turkish, Jewish, and Armenian Cemeteries at Smyrna and Constantinople—Effect produced by the English Burial-Service in Turkey — Greek Funerals — Illustration of the Miracle at NaiD — Persons buried alive — The last embrace of the deceased — Professional Mourners— Inspection of graves at the close of twelve months— Superstitious ideas concerning undecayed corpses

Introduction

OF THE SCRIPTURES INTO THE ORIENTAL CHURCH. Preliminary Remarks— The Greek Church, for ages, destitute of the Scriptures in an intelligible language— Translation into modern Greek procured by Cyril Lucar— His martyrdom— Hilarion's Translation sanctioned by the Hierarchy— Scriptural circulation encouraged by the Bishop of Talanta, and by the Archbishop of Smyrna — Sale of Scriptures at Smyrna and Constantinople — Scriptures exempted from custom-house duty at Sy_a— Sale in Ægina— Success of Joannes Lazarides — Introduction of the Sacred Scriptures into the schools — The Scriptures read in several churches in Tino —Church of the Panagia in that island — Greek custom of citing the Scriptures, both in public and private — Comparison of the Greek and Romish Churches, in regard to the use of the Bible.. Ill

Chapter X. Circulation Of Tracts And Other Religious Publications

Character of Greek Religious Treatises — Works of the Fathers, in manuscript, abundant in the Greek Monasteries — Writings of Korai — Interview with him at Paris — Publications of Bambas — Welcome reception given to Tracts 132

Chapter XI. Education, And Schools

Melancholy condition of Greek Schools— Absurd mode of instruction by the ancient language — The children bastinadoed, by way of punishment— Thirst for education— Introduction of the system of Mutual Instruction— Dr. Korck's flourishing School at Syra— Diligence and animation of the children— A Building erected for the School, at the expense of the inhabitants— Similar Schools set on foot in other Islands — Testimony to the labours of Dr. Korck, from the Courier de Smo me— Subsequent disappointment PUBLIC PREACHING IN GREECE. Sermons in the Church of the Panagia, in Ægina — Attendance of persons of distinction — Singular expressions of feeling — Sermon in Hydra — Description of that island— Hospitality and friendship of Greeks — Appearance of the congregation in the " Church of the Monastery"— Feelings of the Author— Subject of the Sermon, derived from the passion for liberty — Atrocious character of some of the Hydriotes — Massacre of three hundred Turkish slaves — Sermon in the Church of Megaspelaion, with a description of that Monastery 168

Chapter XIII. Enlightened Greeks

Importance of inquiring for cases of individual conversion — Events in the house of a picture-maker— Conversion of a Greek at Constantinople — Conviction of the truth of Christianity, in the case of two Members of the Greek Senate, and of the Prior of a Monastery — Singular expression of a Greek Ecclesiastic— Story of a Native of Zagora— Importance of a conciliatory mode of address— Narrative of a painful disappointment 16S

Chapter XIV. Jews In Turkey

Suffering condition of the Jews in Turkey — Their ill-treatment by the Turks illustrated— Singular question proposed by a Persian — The Shapgee put to death by the Grand Signor — Ill-treatment of the Jews by the Greeks— Pardon asked for the mention of a Jew— Massacre of the Jews at Tripolitza — Jews weary of waiting for the Messiah — Anecdote of a Jew at Salonica — The Gospel at length preached to the Jews of the Levant— Conversion and sufferings of three Jews at Constantinople— Means of their conversion — Their concealment — Their apprehension and appearance before Turkish Authorities — Visit paid them by the Author, in the prison of the Porte — Their imprisonment in the Bagnio — Apostacy of one, and constancy of the others — Future prospects CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. Scientific Tourists, too often chargeable with folly and cruelty— Duty of Missionary Labour at length recognised — The object of Christian Missions compared with that of Howard— Subject of rejoicing, that the light of Christianity is returning to the region from whence it first emanated 198 Scriptural Illustrations. p. 207—219.

JOURNALS OF THE REV. JOHN HARTLEY. VISIT TO THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES, IN THE YEAR 1826. Preliminary Remarks 223 Smyrna 225 From Smyrna to Ephesus 228 Ephesus 231 From Ephesus to Laodicea 240 Laodicea 256 From Laodicea to Colossæ 260 From Colossæ to Apamea and Isbarta 268 From Isbarta to Philadelphia 273 Philadelphia. 287 Sardis 203 From Sardis to Thyatira 295 From Thyatira to Smyrna 299 Second Visit to Thyatira 30 i CONTENTS. TOUR IN THE MOREA, IN THE YEAR 1828. Ægina • 305 Poros 309 Hydra 315 Kastri 316 Kranidi 319 Napoli di Romania 322 Argos '. j 326 Tripolitza 328 Mistra 330 Leondari 336 Karidena 338 Demitzani 343 Zatouna 345 Livargi 346 Kalavrita 348 Megaspelaion 349 Phonia 35 1 Napoli 354 Kiveri 355 Astros 357 Karakovouni 360 Lenidi 36 1 Astros 363 Argos 364 3pptntiijc (No. I.) JOURNAL OF JOANNES LAZARIDES 373 2lppcntfir (No. II.)

LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS AND THE LEVANT. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. The Ottoman Empire has long* comprised within its borders the most interesting* countries in the world. To some persons, these countries present claims of interest, from the beauties of Nature, and the superiority of climate which they boast. Nor are these pretensions wholly groundless. Who can survey the spacious plains, the magnificent mountains, the extensive forests, the multitude of islands washed by the blue and transparent waves, and survey them through a most brilliant atmosphere, without being convinced that he has before him some of the most striking scenes which the human B eye can behold? " The plains of Asia Minor seem ready to start into fertility with a single touch : but, alas! that touch is wanting." This was the language of an English Traveller, in regard to one of these objects ; and an imagination equally vivid would give equal colouring to other Levantine scenes.

The Sacred Writings style the most re markable of these districts, a land flowing with milk and honey — the glory of all lands : and this language is almost applicable to the entire territory which is now denominated Turkey. To others, these lands are interesting, from the classical recollections which they furnish. " Here," they reflect, " the light of civilization shone with brightness, whilst the rest of the world was involved in barbarism. Here were born those distinguished individuals who are considered to this hour as having been rarely equalled, and perhaps never surpassed, for efforts of genius, for refinement of arts, and for deeds of heroism." What a perpetual tribute of respect is paid to Ancient Greece, by the study which is given to her language ! The mind of youth is moulded and formed by the models of Greek Literature which are left us; and, in this manner, the influence of Greece is co-extensive with the magnitude, and will perhaps be perpetual as the duration, of the world.

But for Christians, various parts of the Turkish Dominions have a most sacred interest, in the Scriptural recollections which they furnish. If it be a law of our nature, that localities distinguished by important events invite and rivet our attention, and allure the traveller from the most distant regions, such feelings may be expected to arrive at their utmost pitch of excitement in the contemplation of places where God himself has signally and super naturally displayed His power. Each spot trodden by an Apostle must be regarded by Christians with some of those feelings of solemn and serious delight, which they cannot describe, and which none but themselves can understand. At the place where a Martyr died, or where his corpse was interred, the most languid believer may be expected to form new resolutions of devotedness to his Divine Master, and consecrate himself to new fidelity in following those who through the faith of suffering and the patience of martyrdom inherited the promises.

And cold, indeed, must be the heart of that man, who is capable of the least approximation to insensibility whilst visiting the memorable places where the Saviour of sinners was born or educated ; where He taught, acted, and — above all — suffered. I must own, that whilst I deeply regret the pernicious superstition which has rendered the Tomb of our Lord one of the most melancholy spots on the surface of the earth, it has always appeared to me a species of devotion, sometimes allied to that which is spiritual and sincere, and possibly, in some in- B stances, connected with true faith in the Redeemer. Who would willingly possess the eye which refused to weep on Mount Calvary; or claim the heart which could not glow where our Redeemer ascended from earth to heaven 1 My first visit to the city of Corinth awakened feelings within me of very pleasing seriousness.

Approaching from the road of Argos, I found the most celebrated classical scenery gradually unfolding itself before me — Parnassus, with its poetic recol lections, came in view — soon afterwards Helicon appeared — then Cithæron was visible. But to me, at that moment, this scene presented attractions scarcely susceptible. I was under the influence of superior charms, and felt myself engaged by more elevated recollections. I remembered, that I was now treading on ground which had received the footsteps of the great Apostle of the Gentiles ; that it was here, St. Paul determined to know nothing amongst men save Jesus Christ and him crucified; that at Corinth, by the Divine blessing* on his labours, a primitive Church was collected, to which the language was addressed, Ye are washed, ye are sanctified, ye are justified, in the name of the Lord Jesus, and by the Spirit of our God.

Under the force of such ideas, I looked with coldness on Parnassus, and with comparative indifference on Helicon and Cithæron. Parnassus was more interesting to me, from the reflection that the eye of St. Paul had rested on it, than from any other cause: I was delighted, because I could hold a species of distant communion with him, by means of this classical mountain. How unfeigned is the respect which we feel for those whom we believe to be really living to serve God and to make others happy ; in whom the devotional and the benevolent feelings have proved superior to those which are earthly and selfish ! Their honours will endure, and increase in splendour, when all the fame which stood only in connexion with Parnassus and Classical Greece will have sunk in eternal oblivion, or be consigned to merited insignificance.

Be it ours, then, to set our affections on things above, not on things on the earth ! May our ambi tion rise higher than the highest ambition which is earthly ! May we come decidedly, in faith and spirit, unto Mount Zion, to the city of the living God, the heavenly Jerusalem! May we yield our selves devotedly to the service of Christ, as did the Apostles whom we commemorate, till, in the event, we are spectators of nobler scenes, and partake of richer enjoyment, than earthly prospects or recollections can furnish ! B

Chapter I. Calamities Of Turkey

Turkey the most unhappy of all countries — Deserted Burial-grounds — Desolations of Ephesus — Laodicea — Sardis — Diminution of population at Constantinople — Corfu — Ægina — Colossæ — Discovery of Apamea and Sagalassus — Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other places mentioned in Scripture, not yet discovered — Reflections — Destruction of the Janissaries — Massacre of Greeks — of twenty-seven Samiots at Vourla — Total desolation of Psara — Disappearance of Mahomedans and their religion from the Morea — Unhappy condition of Women in Turkey — Polygamy — Slavery of Greek Females — Scene of distress at Magnesia. Turkey, whether regarded in a secular or religious point of view, presents a dark and dismal picture. Its history, like the roll of Ezekiel, is written, within and without, with lamentation, and mourning and woe.

To the religious state of the empire we shall chiefly direct our attention ; but the calamities not strictly religious, which have befallen these lands, stand in such intimate connexion with religious considerations, and afford room for reflections of so serious a character, that we shall not hesitate to commence with them. Were it requisite to place a motto at the head of this chapter, we should find one highly appropriate in the language of the Prophet : — Destruction upon destruction is cried; for the whole land is spoiled. Against our entire globe, it is true, divine displea sure is directed : on every man, as a sinner, divine indignation is ready to be discharged : but if there be any part of our world more exposed than another to the righteous vengeance of God, it is surely the Ottoman Empire.

It might seem as if there the thunders of Heaven rolled with more awful rever beration, and as if there the lightnings of God's displeasure were doomed to display their most de structive agency, and to sear, consume, and desolate with unaccustomed effect. These lands, once the most favoured, are now the most chastised of all countries. Few occurrences can evince more clearly a cala mitous condition of the human race than habitual diminution of population. One of the first and most powerful laws of our nature is, Increase and mul tiply. When we, therefore, observe an instinct, so imperative frustrated, and the most powerful tenden cies of Nature turned out of their due course, there can be no doubt that some mighty evil is at work. And such is precisely the case in the Turkish Em pire. In whatever direction the traveller proceeds, he observes cemeteries crowded with the dead : and if he inquire where are their descendants, no answer can be given.

Frequently, no town, no village, no cottage on the borders of the deserted burial ground, can suggest the reply, " Here are the children of the deceased." And when the monu mental epitaph .has become illegible, and no more bears its testimony to the name and existence of former generations, still does the close array of dark and mournful cypress-trees present impressive in formation of the multitudes interred beneath them. That the human race in Turkey really does " fade away and perish, beneath the eye of the observer," may be further evidenced by the circumstance, that Constantinople is supposed to have diminished its population by 300,000, since the year 1812. But the astonishing loss of population, which those parts of the world have sustained since an cient times, is still more affecting.

I have wandered amidst the ruins of Ephesus ; and I had ocular and auricular demonstration, that where once assembled thousands exclaimed, Great is Diana of the Ephe sians, now the eagle yells, the jackal moans, the echoes of Mount Prion and Mount Coryssus no longer reply to the voice of man. I have stood on the Hill of Laodicea, and I found it without a single resident inhabitant. There was, indeed, an inferiority in its desolations to those of Babylon. Of Babylon it was predicted (Isaiah xiii. 20,) The Arabian shall not pitch tent there. At Laodicea, the Turcoman had pitched his migratory tent in the area of its ancient amphitheatre ; but I saw neither church nor temple, mosque nor minaret, nor a single permanent abode. The capital of the island B i of Corfu— to allude to a place adjacent to Turkey — is reported to have once contained 120,000 in habitants : now, the entire island only numbers 60,000.

Athenæus assures us, on the authority of Aristotle, that Ægina formerly possessed a slave population of 470,000 : now, the total number of Æginetans is probably not more than 12,000. I have myself observed the exactitude with which the denunciations of divine anger against the three Churches of Ephesus, Sardis, and Laodicea have been fulfilled. Whilst the other four Churches of Asia, which are in part commended, and in part more mildly menaced, are still populous cities, and contain communities of nominal Christians, of each of these it may now be said, that it is empty, and void, and waste. And though the Arabian may pitch tent at Laodicea, and the shepherds, as at Ephesus, make their fold there, still have they scarcely been inhabited or dwelt in from generation to generation. Wild beasts of the desert lie there — hyænas, wolves, and foxes.

Their houses are full of doleful creatures : scorpions, enormous cen tipedes, lizards, and other noxious reptiles, crawl about amidst the scattered ruins ; and serpents hiss and dart along through the rank grass which grows above them. And owls dwell there. When I was standing beneath the three stupendous columns of the Temple of Cybele, which are still remaining at Sardis, I looked upward and saw the species of owl which the Greeks call Cuckuvaia, perched on the summit of one of them. Its name is derived from its note ; and, as it flits around the desolate ruins, emitting this doleful sound, it might almost seem to have been appointed to chaunt from age to age the dirge of these forsaken cities. And here the distich of Hafiz is most true : The spider has wove his web in the imperial palace * And the owl hath sung her watchsong on the towers of Afrasiab.

I paid a visit to the city of Colossæ — if that, indeed, may be called a visit, which left us in some degree of uncertainty whether we had actually discovered its remains. Colossæ has become doubly desolate : its very ruins are scarcely visible. Many a harvest has been reaped, where Epaphras and Archippus laboured. The vine has long produced its fruits, where the ancient Christians of Colossæ lived and died ; and the leaves of the forest have for ages been strewn upon their graves. The Turks, and even the Greeks who reap the harvest and who prune the vine where Colossæ once stood, have scarcely an idea that a Christian Church ever existed there, or that so large a population is there reposing in death. How total is the work of demolition and depo pulation in those regions, is evident from the fact, that the site of many ancient cities is still unknown.

It was owing to the exertions of Mr. Arundell, my fellow-traveller in Asia, that the remains of Apamea and Sagalassus were brought to light : and there are still cities mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles which have eluded research. Where is Antioch of Pisidia? Where are Lystra and Derbe, cities of Lycaonia I Where is Perga of Pam phylia. We sought for Antioch, on our journey through Pisidia ; but its place, as yet, has not been found. Count Alexandre de Laborde, a French gentleman, distinguished for his scientific attainments, went in search of Lystra and Derbe. An opinion had obtained ground, that extensive ruins, at a place named, by the Turks, Bin bir kilisi, ' The thousand and one churches,' were the remains of one of these cities. But, as I was informed by Count Laborde, it proved, on examination, that the opinion was altogether unfounded.

After so many remarks on the desolation of an cient cities, it would be culpable in a Christian to proceed w,ith his task, without adverting to the very solemn lessons which these scenes are calcu lated to teach. When I stood amidst these ancient ruins, every pedestal, stone, and fragment appeared to have a voice. A most impressive eloquence addressed me from mouldering columns, falling temples, ruined theatres, decayed arches, broken cisterns, and from aqueducts, baths, and sarcophagi, and other nameless masses of ruin. The very si lence of the spot had language. The wind, as it sighed through the forsaken habitations, seemed to carry with it the voice of twenty or thirty centuries. I know not if I ever spent a more solemn or more edifying day, than that which was passed amongst the ruins of Ephesus.

Here, it was a natural reflection, is grandeur in its grave; power in its sepulchre; beauty consigned to the loathsome worm ; earthly glory in the dust. Here are kings without their honours, without adulation, without crowns — heroes, without their banners, without triumph, without renown. The admirer and the admired are alike forgotten. The despiser and the despised have met with a similar fate. Whole generations have gone down, earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust ! Reflection on scenes so full of solemn interest might be expected to leave no heart unimpressed, no individual unprofited. How ought it to disen chant us from the fatal fascinations of this delusive world! — how, to break that magic spell which binds us to destructive folly ! — how, to withdraw from earth, and to propel to Heaven ! to speak wisdom to the very ear and heart of folly ; and to startle from their lethargy of death, all mortals, who direct no hopes nor plans beyond the brief span of human life, nor have enjoyments which can survive them, when their bodies sink into the dust !

The Chris tian, amidst the ruins of Ephesus or Corinth, will repeat, with serious emphasis, the language of Scripture: Here we have no continuing city — We look for a city, which hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God. Our citizenship is in heaven ,* from whence, also, we look for the Saviour, the Lord Jesus Christ. The story of desolation is by no means ended. I have chiefly alluded to ancient destruction; — that of modern times is no less appalling. In every previous age, the evils which stand con nected with anarchy, insurrection, and warfare, have desolated and depopulated the Turkish empire to a fearful extent. Nor are the times in which we live an exception to the general rule. Of former calamities I have nothing to relate. It is my office to detail some of the horrors, which, in a greater or less degree, have fallen within my own observation.

I visited Constantinople, four or five days after the destruction of the Janissaries. On that occa sion, thousands, as is believed, had fallen in the streets of the capital beneath the sword and the artillery of the grand Signor ; and thousands were banished into distant and hopeless exile. To one living in Constantinople at the time, it was not unusual to behold Mussulman corpses exposed in the streets during the regular period of three days ; and to see dead bodies floating upon the waves of the Bosphorus. To those resident on the shores of the canal, the disgusting sight was not unfrequent, of a human corpse, borne by the current against their dwelling, and seeming to attempt a landing almost at their door. Proceeding one day from Constantinople to Therapia, a distance of about nine miles, I counted no less than seven such bodies.

The large mass of human victims had naturally been conveyed, by the force of the current, into the Mar mara : and the captains of vessels, coming from the Dardanelles, reported their having fallen in with whole shoals of them ; a circumstance by no means incredible, considering the immense number of per sons killed and thrown into the sea. But the sword of the Sultan and of his Mussul man subjects has been turned more awfully against Christians, than against any other class of persons. There was a period, soon after the opening of the Greek revolution, when it was almost certain death for a Greek to make his appearance in the streets of Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places. Not a few of our countrymen have seen Greeks laid dead at their feet by the fire-arms of their Turkish enemies. The Turks went in chase of victims of this description, apparently with as little remorse as the sportsman pursues his game.

When I visited Vourla, near the ancient Clazomenæ, the Greeks conducted me to the charnel-house of their church, and there shewed me the sculls of twenty-seven young Samiots, who had all been sacrificed by the Turks. This work of butchery had been perpetrated at the same time, and in the same place. The strokes of the yhataghans were still visible. The more public warfare of the Greek revolution has been characterized by two peculiarities, which are scarcely known in the wars of civilized nations. One is, the totality of desolation and destruction, which has fallen upon some places. Prior to the period of which we speak, the island of Psara possessed a population of many thousand inhabitants. The traveller who visited this island, found a large and pleasing town situated upon it. He was de lighted with the commercial activity and cheerful contentment which it everywhere exhibited.

He found the country adorned with gardens, with olive grounds, and vineyards. Its harbour was visited by vessels of large construction, and manned by seamen of a bold and able character. The bells of the churches were constantly heard, summoning the inhabitants to the solemnities of their religious ser vice ; and the Ipsariote women were seen moving about in a costume peculiarly pleasing. The waves around the island were ever bearing upon their bosom the Ipsariote ships, extending their canvass to the breeze, and sailing away on some distant enter prise ; or returning from their voyages with the fruits of their toils and exertions. But now, how changed the scene ! The traveller who should visit Psara, would scarcely recognise the spot. The vindictive passions of the Turks have exhausted their fury so fatally upon it, that it is become wholly desolate.