Here and there in the Home Land. England, Scotland and Ireland as seen by a Canadian. ... Profusely illustrated

Front matter

HERE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND ENGLAND, SCOTLAND AND IRELAND, AS SEEN BY A CANADIAN. BY CANNIFF HAIGHT, AUTHOR OF "COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA FIFTY YEARS AGO. PROFUSEL Y ILL USTRA TED. "Travel makes all men countrymen, makes people noblemen and kings, every man tasting of liberty and dominion." — Alcott. TORONTO: WILLIAM BRIGGS, WF.SLEV BUILDINGS. MONTREAL: C. W. COATES. HALIFAX: S. F. HUESTIS. 1S95. Entered, according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and ninety -five, by Canniff Haiotit, Toronto, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture, at Ottawa, page 19 CONTENTS. Chapter I. ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHORE. t Quebec — Going on board — Fog — Rimouski — Sunday — Magdalen Island and the Bird Rocks — Newfoundland — Sunset at sea — St. Pierre -Icebergs -Whales — Cape Race - Out on the Atlantic — Surrounded with broken ice — The Banks — Stormy weather — Discomforts of a storm— Storm subsides — Sunshine — A pleasant change — Last Sunday on board — 'lory Island — Derryveaugh Mountains — Northern Ireland Malin Head — Lough Foyle — Moville —Mull of Galloway— Isle of Man— Approach to Liverpool — The Mersey — A lively scene - Landing stage — Customs officials — Liverpool — The docks — Yorkshire and Lancashire Railway — Manchester — Respect paid to the memory of great men - - - - Chapter II.

A RUN INTO YORKSHIRE AND A TRAMP OVER A MOOR, Darwen— Manufacturing lords of England — Their homes — Lancashire — Two enjoyable things — Blackburn — The Craven district— Skipton — Skipton Castle — A coach ride — Rylstone Fell and Norton Tower -White doe of Kylstone— The driver's yarn— Grassington — Stone walls —Yorkshire village — A walk along the Whane — Kilnsey -Tennants' Arms— A good night's rest — An early breakfast — Kilnsey Crags — Kilnsey Moor— Sheep-runs — Not much beauty in a moor — Danger in traversing them — Malham Tarn and Cove — A dangerous descent — Darwen Moor — A walk over it — Hollinsliead Hall— Destroyed by Cromwell — Walk through a down-pour— A mad bull we did not see — A sorry plight - - - 45 Chapter III. BRISTOL AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. The Black Country — Hasty glimpses — Arrival — Bristol — Its antiquity — Old churches — St. Werburgh and Rev. John Wesley — St Mary Redcliffe — A rib of the duu cow — Sir William Tenn — Muniment CONTENTS. ust. 'id Room— Chatterton— Weslev Chapel— Friends' Friars' Meeting house—John Storr Fry— Public buildings — Bristol 'milk— Millies s Orphanages— Brandon Hill — Clifton Down — Shilston House — Zoological Gardens— A grand fete— Redland Green and the Wish ing Steps— Neighbourhood of Bristol— Blaise Castle— Old church at Westbury — Henbury — Blaise Hamlet and Cottages - - - - 71 Chapter IV.

CHEDDAR. Yatton — Congresbury •— St. Congar — Saxon relics and customs — Bleadon Hills— Mendip Hills — Doleberry Encampment — Climate — Axbridge— Town of Cheddar — Chasm through the Mendips— King Edward — River Axe — Wells — Tor of Olastonbury — Richard Whiting — Wells Abbey Chapter V. TINTERN AND CHEPSTOW. Ohepstow — High tide — Tubular bridge over the Wye — St. Mary's Church — Our coach and the ride — Hobbs — Pleasure of coaching — Piercefield Park— Rustic children— Walk to Wyanil Cliff — View from Wyand Cliff — The River Wye— The twelve apostles— A charming scene — Our youthful guides and their story — Descent from Wyand Cliff — A rustic cottage — A beautiful ride — Tin- Devil's Pulpit — Tintern Abbey — Its history — A grand ruin — View from its walls — Daws— Ivy -clad walls — Royal George Inn — Departure— Ohepstow Castle 104 Chapter VI.

Chapter I. On The Ocean And On Shore

A N ocean voyage has ceased to be a novelty even to a ■*■ *■ Canadian. We can remember, though, when a trip across tlie Atlantic was of very rare occurrence ; when such an event in one's life would have given an almost enviable notoriety to the returned voyageur, and would have afforded talk for many a day to all the country round. Things that were rare and noteworthy forty years ago, have, through the vapid advance of art and science, become com monplace in these later days, and so it has come to pass that a run across the ocean is of no more account, and indeed even less, than a trip used to be, in my recollection, from Kingston to Toronto. We arrived at Quebec in the forenoon of Saturday, the 25th of May, and as soon as our baggage had been trans ferred from the train to the tender, we went on board and were carried away to our ship, the Parisian, which lay at anchor in the middle of the stream.

The confusion and noise attending embarkation on an HEKE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. ocean steamer can be as readily conceived as described. Even persons of much experience on such an occasion wear an anxious look. Every hand on the ship is in requisition. Stewards and waiters are ordered to lay hold of this and that, and bending under their load, they rush below with such baggage as may be required on the voyage. Sailors tumble boxes ancl trunks with no gentle hand down into the mysterious bowels of the ship, while scores of anxious QUEBEC, FROM POINT LEVIS. people crowd around the promiscuous mass of personal effects to satisfy themselves that " all's aboard." When this part of the programme is over we turn away with a sense of relief. The excitement of the morning had kept tlie demands of nature in abeyance, but now when all was over, and we paced the spacious saloon and noted the prejiarations for lunch, she asserted her claims.

I need hardly tarry to say how gratefully the tinkle of the bell sounded in our ears, nor how we managed in a short time to merge breakfast and lunch into one repast. This over with, we good naturedly sought the deck to have a look around. Our steamer, while we were refreshing ourselves, had weighed anchor, and was gliding quietly down the river with the tender alongside. Presently there were adieus hastily said, the hurried shaking of hands and a rush down stairs. The lines were thrown off the tender swung around and headed foithe city, cheers were given, and handker chiefs waved. The distance widened — our voyage had commenced. It was not at all cheering when I went on deck in the morning, to make the discovery that we were feeling our way very slowly through a thick fog : but as the day wore on this gradually lifted, so that in a short time we were going at full speed.

At ten o'clock the bell summoned us to service in the saloon. We had 105 cabin and sixty steerage passengers, so that we made a very respectable muster. At noon the sun shone out clear and bright. We were off Cape Chatte, where the River St. Lawrence nautically ends, and where the Gulf begins. Monday proved a charming day, the only drawback to some of our passengers being a heavy ground swell, which gave a good deal of motion to the ship and sent numbers of hapless passengers downstairs. At mid-day we could see the Magdalen Islands to the south, and soon after the Bird Rocks came in view. The largest one, on which there is a light, rises three hundred feet almost perpendicularly out of the water. Karly in the afternoon we sighted Newfoundland. Its HERE AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. 22 snow-clad shores presented anything but a cheerful pros pect, and as we approached, its influence on the temperature was very marked.

We were glad to go down and don our overcoats and wraps. There was something so inter esting in the sight of land, even though the high hills did stand out against the sky clad in full winter costume ; and though the cold breeze which had played around them until it was as cold as they, made our teeth chatter, yet we remained gazing upon its indented and icy shores. The sun went down behind the sea in a blaze of glory. A sunset at sea is a fine sight, and one not easily forgotten by those who have witnessed it. As I watched the receding disc, I fancied I could reach with my eye the verge behind which it sunk. But I remembered that far inside that space to the west were loved ones whose thoughts were most likely turned to me and the good ship that was carrying me farther and still farther away.

We passed Cape Ray after sunset. Tuesday opened upon us most delightfully. Not a ripple disturbed the fair bosom of the sea. At breakfast we were off the Island of St. Pierre, where we met the steamship Palestine inward bound. She signalled us that there was a great deal of ice ahead, news which in no way added to our enjoyment. When we were crossing the mouth of Placentia Bay we discovered a white speck far off on the horizon, which reminded us of the cloud which Elijah's servant saw from the top of Carmel, appearing unto him like a " little cloud out of the sea, like a man's hand." It was an iceberg, sure enough, and as we approached it, became an object of general interest to the passengers. To many of us it was the first glimpse of those dreary arctic voyageurs, those stately travellers of the northern sea, who heed not though the angry billows foam and dash against their ponderous ice-bound sides — who move on regardless of old Boreas, though he crack his cheeks with blast and tempest — who are the dread of the sailor, and have sent many a noble ship and gallant crew into the silent deep, whence no voice has ever come to tell the tale.

ICKBERCS. It was curious and interesting to watch the different shapes the berg assumed as we approached. At first it looked like an old-fashioned farm-house, with a long range of low straggling buildings behind it, the roofs of which were covered with great quantities of snow. Then it became a huge scow, with lofty load of glistening freight. Ao-ain, it has turned into a perfect sphinx — indeed, in all our boyhood's picture-books we never saw a better HEI!E AND THERE IN THE HOME LAND. representation of the grand old Egyptian monster. When we got close, so near that we could have tossed a stone to it, some of the passengers, possessing very vivid imagina tions, declared that they could see bears' tracks up its sides. The sailors estimated its length at three hundred yards, and its height above the water about two hundred feet.

The portion submerged, therefore, would be about six hundred feet, a pretty good draught of water, and a very respectable lump of ice. In the afternoon we had a fresh wind with us. All the sails were set ; the ship had a gentle motion, and we went spanking along at a fine rate. We ran into a school of whales who had been so much engaged with their pleasure or else were so profoundly asleep that they did not know of our approach until we were upon them. They threshed the water with their great tails, and rolled about the ship for a minute or two, seemingly quite bewildered, affording us considerable amusement for the time. Two of them were very large. As we drew on to Cape Race, more and more icebergs loomed up before us. At .S p.m. we were abreast the Cape and took a last look at America. We were now fairly launched on the great Atlantic, and could have wished that our introduction had worn a more pleas ing aspect.

The wind had increased to a stiff breeze. The sea, which had been playfully rolling, now looked angry and threatening. On every hand countless icebergs lifted their white and sombre heads far above the wrathful waves and floating ice. Remnants of shattered bergs grated and thumped against the sides of our ship, but she steamed on through the maze into the obscurity of the night. The cold wind makes us shiver, yet we remain and peer into the darkness. It is late when we retire, and all through the remainder ofthe night those cold, dreary sea-monsters give us their undesirable company, haunt our thoughts and destroy our repose. It was evident from the number that were on deck early in the morning, that the night's rest had not been one of unmixed sweetness. Everyone seemed greatly relieved to find that we had passed out of the track of the icebergs, aud that there was not a vestige of one to be seen on the broad expanse of water.

A clear and open sea now lay before us. Our ship was moving on gallantly with all sails set. There were but few ladies at dinner, and a good many gentlemen, too, had engagements downstairs, and " must be excused." We were on the Banks before night, so the sailors said, but I do not know that I was much the wiser for the information. I could not distinguish the difference in the colour of the water which sailors say is observable, and by which they know when they are on them. I was not quite so verdant as the man who asked a captain with much ear nestness where the Banks were, for he had been looking for them all day and could not see them. I was much puzzled this morning to tell whether I had slept on my head or 1113- feet. Washing proved a very perplexing and uncomfortable affair. I was either bump ing my head against the partition or staggering back against the door.

By spreading out my legs like an extended pair of tongs I could steady myself against the motion of the ship in one direction, but I needed another pair to guard me from the other. There was no way for it but to hold on with one hand and apply the water with the other, and even then I found myself putting it in very uncomfortable places. I worried through, however, after a while, and made for the deck. The sea was running much higher than yesterday, and the wind much stronger. We were making fourteen and a half knots an hour. At noon the wind had become so strong that all the sails were close reefed except the main-sail. A sea ever and anon broke on the deck. Walking was attended with so much difficulty that it became necessary to cling to the long rope that extended lengthwise of the ship.

Unpleasant sounds met the ear from adjoining rooms, and a crash was heard in the crockery department. At dinner the captain said we had reached mid-ocean. There was a large number of vacant seats at the table. Tumblers, bottles and the like were constantly toppling over, creating vexation on one hand and amusement on the other. The storm seemed to increase in force as the day wore on. It is grand and impressive to stand on deck with the wind roaring through the ropes and yards, and look out upon the waves rising like great black mountains seamed with snow, rushing down on you as if they would bury you in their anger. Your noble ship goes on, climbing the tumbling hills and rushing down their mad sides, while every little while you hear the hollow thump of some wave against the bows, followed by a rush of water over the bulwarks, and feel the great ship tremble beneath your ON THE OCEAN AND ON SHOKE. 27 feet.

I do not remember any picture of a storm at sea so perfect as that given in the 107th Psalm : " They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters ; these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. For he commandeth, and raiseth the stormy wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount up to the heaven, they go down again to the depths : their soul is melted because of trouble. They reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and are at their wit's end." Towards night a thick fog gathered around us, and the whistle began every now and then to send out on the wings of the storm its dreary sound. I do not know of a more unpleasant accompaniment than the shrieks of a fog whistle. When I came on deck next morning, I found that the storm had considerably abated.

Taking my favourite position at the wheel-house, I watched for some time the bow of the ship as it rose high on the waves, and then plunged down as if it were going under, or, as Mark Twain puts it, " At one moment the bowsprit was taking a deadly aim at the sun in mid-heaven, and at the next it was trying to harpoon a shark in the bottom of the ocean;" or as the clown in the Winter's Tale describes it, " Now the ship boring the moon with her main-mast, and anon swallowed with yeast and froth, as you'd thrust a cork into a hogs head." The sailors were busy hoisting sail, and as they worked sent out snatches of song — " So taut to haul the sheet we know With yo, heave, ho ! " the chorus always being the signal for a lusty pull. Saturday morning opened upon us with cheerful sunshine, and tempted many to come on deck early.

The wind had fallen to a comfortable breeze, and we were sweeping on finely. After breakfast all hands came out to enjoy the bright sun, and the deck once more assumed a gay appearance. Shuffle-board and other deck games were in requisition. We hud not seen a sail for three days, nothing but the broad expanse of the seething ocean. Even the petrels which had been disporting themselves around us during the storm, were no longer to be seen. Our last Sunday <>n board was very agreeable. The wind had died away : the sun shone cheerfully upon us, and our sick ones sought the deck. The Rev. Mr. Martin, a Church of England minister returning from Australia, preached. Monday opened upon us clear as a bell. The sea was calm and smooth. We were drawing near to land, and were on the lookout for it. Early in the afternoon Tory Island loomed up out of the sea, after which we caught glimpses of the Derrvveaugh Mountains, and then the rugged shores of northern Ireland: but the atmosphere was so thick that we could only get an outline of the moun tains and shore.

We pass Lough Swilly, and then round Malin Head, Ireland's most northern point : and notice the large square monument there erected. Proceeding now along the coast to Inishown Head, we enter Lough Foyle and pass on to Moville, where a number of our passengers leave us for Deny. Karly on Tuesday morning — ouilast day on shipboard — we pass the Giant's Causeway and have a good view of these noted cliffs. Our course lies down the North Channel. We can see the Mull of Cantire on one hand, and the shore of the County of Antrim on the other ; ancl later we have the Mull of Galloway and County Down. Next the Isle of Man arrests our attention. The obscure outline which we see at first gradually develops as we approach, and its mountains stand out clearer and in bolder relief. It lies in the northern part of the Irish Sea, and is nearly equidistant from England and Ireland and the south of Scotland.

It is about thirty-three miles long and twelve miles wide. A mountain range occupies a great portion of the island, extending from Maughold Head to the Calf Islet. The loftiest elevation is Snaefell, which rises 2,024 feet above the sea. ln and through these lofty mountains are to be found the picturesque recesses of Ravensdale, Sulby, Glen, Glen Aldyn, and Balure. The fine scenery of the mountains has been made more acces sible by the construction of a series of roads, commanding at many points views unsurpassed in the kingdom for picturesqueness and variety. In many respects this island is unique and interesting beyond any other of the British Isles. Its laws, its customs, its system of government are in the main quite different from those of the neighbouring islands of Great Britain. Since its purchase by the Crown of England in 1825, it has enjoyed what the Irish people are clamouring for — " Home Rule.

In this respect it is not unlike Canada, possessing its own government, known as the House of Keys. A Lieutenant-Governor is appointed by the Crown, and, though an appendage, is for all practical purposes independent. Prior to the purchase from the Stanley family, who came into possession in perpetuity during the reign of Henry IV., by paying to the king, his heirs and successors, at coronation, a cast of falcons, it was independent and ruled by them under the title of King or Lord of Man. It was a King of Man that placed the Ærown on the head of the Earl of Richmond after the battle of Bosworth Field. The island is rich in monuments of the past, and par ticularly of the dead, whether pre-historic or of later date. Its scenery is varied and pleasing. The central hills, though perhaps not quite so beautiful as those of the English lakes, are nevertheless not far behind in their varied attractions.

The cliffs along the southern coast in many places are wild and grand. Vegetation, except where exposed to the full force of the gales, is always luxuriant, for the climate is mild, and severe frosts are rare. The hydrangia, the myrtle and the fuchsia flourish unnipped, and grow to a large size. Take it all in all — its history, its antiquities, its scenery and its climate — there are few places in the British Isles which better repay a visit of some duration than the Isle of Man. It is a favourite summer resort for thousands of the British people. The principal towns are Ramsay, Douglas, Castletown, and Peel. In the latter place is Peel Castle, which the readers of " Peveril of the Peak " will remember as Holm Peel, one of the ancient strongholds of the island. Here Sir Walter Scott introduces us to the young Earl of Derbv and his friend Julian Peveril, and the brave Countess of Derby, whose husband, the Earl of Derby and King in Man, was beheaded at Bolton-on-the-Moors, October, 1651.

Rushen Castle, however, at Castletown, was the home of 1IOI..M rKEL CASTLE, ISLE OF MAN. the Earl of Derby at the time of the unfortunate skirmish at Wiggan Lane, where he was made prisoner, with the result we have mentioned. The reader will find in " Peveril of the Peak " beautiful descriptions not only of these old castles, but many other places on the island. Among the natural curiosities of the island is the Manx cat. These domestic animals are remarkable in that nature has failed to provide them with tails. This is the only place in the world, I believe, where tbe feline family are tailless. I have never come across any reason for this peculiarity. It is one of nature's freaks, I suppose. The Manx kitten certainly deserves the sympathy of kittenhood everywhere, because it has no tail to play ItrSHEN CASTLE, ISLE OF MAN. with, and is hence deprived us one of the greatest charms of its life.

From Castletown, Port Erin, the Calf of Alan, and the north coast of the island can be visited. The cliffs are grand. The scenery of the whole region is wild and storm-beaten, and the primitive language and primitive customs have lingered longer here than in any other part of the island. One of the most remarkable spots is called the Chasms, a number of deep parallel fissures which have opened in the rock, produced probably by a slight seaward slipping of the mass. The Calf of Man was formerly a noted place for falcons, and supplied the Lords of Man with the birds which were the fee for possession of the islanfl. Once, too, it had a hermit, in the person of one Thomas Bushel, a dependent of the great Lord Bacon, who lived there to a very advanced age, on a parsimonious diet " of herbs, oil, mustard, and honey, with milk sufficient."

There is a lighthouse on the Calf. At 4 p.m. we pass Bell Buoy, and at 5.30 our ship is along side the landing stage, and we are ashore. The approach from sea to the great port of Liverpool is very fine. There were few on board who did not come on deck to have a look at the stirring scene we were entering upon. The sight of land to one who has for days looked upon the broad and restless ocean, until the eye grew weary in its search for some object of relief in the vast expanse, possesses a charm which at once fixes the attention of the observer and awakens within him the most intense interest. We all felt that the dangers and discomforts of the sea were over for the time, and with our glasses scanned the shore on which we were soon to stand. The broad stretch of water at the entrance of the harbour was covered with vessels of large and small burthens, mostly lying at anchor.

There the Mersey empties into the sea, and before us is the long line of docks, which are at once the wonder and admiration of the world, extending up the TOWN HALL, LIVERPOOL. river for more than eight miles, and the great city with its massive and lofty warehouses and countless buildings crowding up to the hills eastward. On the Cheshire coast we have Birkenhead, to the south Tranmere, and to the north Seacombe and Egremont ; while at the extremity of the Wirral peninsula may be seen New Brighton, with scores of bathing carts along the white sandy beach, and still farther to the north the lighthouse at the Rock Perch. Craft of every size, build and rig expand their white wings towards the sea, or are being towed out by the sturdy little tugs. Ferry boat after ferry boat rushes past, thronged with passengers.

Here a graceful yacht, with snowy main sail and balloon jib, skims along. There the clumsy coal or salt flat plunges heavily through the sea, or the light trim boat dances in the waves made by the paddle-wheels of some great steamer. The next picture I have to present is not so interesting ; that is to say, it was not so to me. There is an institution common to all civilized countries, designated " the customs,' the employees of which are presumed to watch with jealous care the revenue of the State. These officials are not, as a rule, by any means, a bashful people. They never wait for an introduction — this is one of the modern rules of society not laid down in their code of etiquette. If you should so far forget yourself as to fancy that you may go where you choose when your foot touches the shore, be assured that one of these gentlemen will bring you to a stand, and will demand to see the contents of your portmanteau, or any other luggage of which you may be possessed.

Fancy, then, some two hundred men and women gathered around thrice as many trunks and satchels spread open in the shed on Prince's Parade, awaiting and undergoing the inspection of these officials. When your effects are graced with the official chalk, then are you at liberty to take yourself and your belongings away. After tea I started out with a couple of Canadian friends ST. GEORGE'S HALL, LIVERPOOL for a ramble. We passed through Dale, Castle, Lord and others of the principal streets, noting in our way the fine shops and other noble buildings that presented themselves at every turn. The town hall, custom-house, post-office and St. George's Hall are massive structures. In front of the latter are two fine bronze equestrian statues of Her Majesty and Prince Albert. The Wellington monument next arrested our attention.

It stands at the bottom of the London Road, and rises to the height of 110 feet. The column is crowned with a figure of the Duke. Thence we bend our way through the thronged streets to our hotel, somewhat weary over the day's excitement and our walk of more than three hours' duration. It may strike the reader as somewhat out of the way to talk of such a protracted stroll after tea, and in daylight, too : but an Englishman LIME STREET, LIVERPOOL will understand it. I wish we could patch on to the end of our evenings, particularly after a broiling hot summer's day, the long and soothing twilight of England. How charming after the sun has hid his face to have two or more long hours of dreamy light! Night seems loth to drop her dark curtain over the land ; she blends her shadows so sof tl}7 and so gently with the light that you can hardly tell when daylight ends and night begins.

On the following morning I had an early breakfast and set out again, taking in the first place in my way, the North-western Railway station on Lime Street. The building is very large and fine. Over one hundred trains are despatched from this station daily. I then went to the Yorkshire and Lancashire Railway, in Tithebarn Street, a very handsome building in the Italian style, and a striking object from its elevated position. There are but two railroads entering the city, and both pass completely under it — the first, the North-western, coming out at Edge Hill through a tunnel excavated out of solid rock ; the other terminat ing at the Regent's Road. I turned away from these places of noise and bustle, and took my way down Duke Street to the Exchange, a magnificent edifice, the interior of which I was told was the finest of its kind in the world.