A Round Trip in North America, etc

Front matter

A ROUND TRIP IN NORTH AMERICA OUR PARTY AT THE MIDWINTER FAIR AT SAN FRANCISCO i. M. 2. Myself. 3. Mr. S., our guide. 4. Mr. H. Neville Frontispiece A ROUND TRIP IN NORTH AMERICA BY LADY THEODORA GUEST With Illustrations from tlie Author's Sketches LONDON. EDWARD STANFORD 26 & 27 COCKSPUR STREET, CHARING CROSS S.W, I DEDICATE THESE RECORDS OF A HAPPY HOLIDAY TO MV MANY FRIENDS ACROSS THE ATLANTIC WHERE THEIR UNIVERSALLY WARM WELCOME AND SPONTANEOUS KINDNESS MADE ME FEEL AT HOME AMONGST MY COUSINS LIST OF CONTENTS <_ H W PAGE 1 ACROSS THE ATLANTIC TO PHILADELPHIA I II. BALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON ...... 2 25 111 WESTWARDS BY ST. LOUIS TO DENVER . . . . 41 IV IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS ...... 62 V UTAH, THE SALT LAKE CITY ...... 78 VI SAN FRANCISCO OO VII. MONTEREY VIII. YO SEMITE \ _LLEY Ilg IX. NORTHWARDS, THROUGH OREGON ..... 149 ON THE NORTHERN PACIFIC . . 167 ST. Paul's to Niagara . . . . . .178 \1 XII.

CANADA .......... 195 XIII. THE SAGUENAY AND QUEBEC JIG XIV. FROM CANADA TO VIRGINIA 2$8 XV. HOMEWARD BOUND ........ 25S LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS To face Plate t**' I. OUR PARTY AT THE MIDWINTER FAIR AT SAN FRANCISCO Frontispiece II. THE " PARIS,'' OF THE AMERICAN LINE .... 9 III. THE "WILDWOOD" AND "LAWRENCE11 .... 25 IV. IN THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO ... 64 V. PIKE'S PEAK, THROUGH THE GATE OF THE GARDEN OF THE GODS ......... 69 VI. THE SEAL ROCKS, FROM CLIFF HOUSE, CALIFORNIA . 94 VII. CYPRESS POINT, MONTEREY, ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN . Ill viii. in yo semite valley . the snow-covered " cloud's rest" ....... . . 129 IX. THE YO SEMITE VALLEY: THE BRIDAL VEIL FALLS ON THE RIGHT — EL CAPITAN OPPOSITE . . . . 1 34 X. THE VERNAL FALLS OF THE MERCED . . . 1 36 XI. MOUNT SHASTA, IN CALIFORNIA 154 SII.

PORTLAND, OREGON . . . . . . . 15S .711 XIII. QUEBEC IN EARLY MORNING, FROM THE ST. LAWRENCE . 224 XIV. THE NATURAL STEPS, ON THE MONTMORENCI RIVER 226 XV. FALLS OF THE CHAUDR1ERE, IN LEVIS, CANADA . . 228 XVI THE NATURAL BRIDGE, IN VIRGINIA 248 The flower figured on the cover is the " Cyclobothra," referred to on page

Chapter I Across The Atlantic To Philadelphia

From various agricultural reasons, hunting came to its last sad day even earlier than usual this spring (1894), and we found that we should have time for a good long excursion before the hot weather set in. Where to go was a question soon settled, for we had several tempting invitations from friends in distant countries, and above all one of long standing, which we had always hoped to accomplish at some time or other, and this seemed the very best possible moment for a visit to America. The Chicago World's Fair was over last year, therefore one might hope that crowds had thronged there then, and that the number of travellers going West would be fewer this year in consequence. So with no delay, our passages were taken on board the Paris, for Aprd 14th, and our "party" made up ; this was not a long affair, as it consisted only of our two selves, one friend, Mr. H. Neville, and Byatt, my maid.

Our friend, Mr. F. T., was " cabled " to expect us on the 21st, and the morning of Saturday the 14th found us at Southampton, examining with curiosity and content the suite of state-rooms which were to be our home for a week. These were delightful, two cabins in one, a large bathroom adjoining, and plenty of room for chairs and tables, and opening on to the promenade deck. This might be called "misery made easy," to one apprehensive of mal-de-mer. We deposited our hand-bags and strolled about the ship tdl near twelve o'clock, when, the London train having come in, our English friends departed, and at 12.10 we left the pier, ten minutes late, as it had taken that time to haul down the flags and roll up the red cloth, with which the Paris had been decorated in honour of H.R.H. the Duchess of Albany, who, with her two little children, had been inspecting the ship.

My brother-indaw had introduced us to his friends, Mr. and Mrs. G., who were returning to America, and they were most kind to us, inviting us at once to their table for the whole voyage for our meals ; and, as he is the great man on this line, their kindness meant a great deal, and converted what might have been a dull voyage into the semblance of a most cheerful visit. With them were their daughter (about fifteen), their doctor, and his secretary, and Mr. C, all most pleasant people and full of fun. The ship was not full, there being only about a hundred saloon passengers, besides second-class and some four hundred emigrants, but the vessel is so enormous one is absolutely unaware that the latter are there at all. The Paris is 10,794 tons, five hundred and eighty feet long, and sixty-three feet wide, and our average speed was four hundred and sixty-eight miles in the twenty-four hours.

The rain, which had fallen all the morning, soon ceased, and the afternoon was fine enough to allow of chairs on deck, and the English coast receded prettily in fading haze, the last glimpse being afforded by the revolving light on the Eddystone, after which I betook myself to my berth with very serious doubts as to when I should leave it. On Sunday I did not go to breakfast, nor, indeed, did any come to me tdl late in the day. There was a service on board in the morning, in the saloon, which was fairly well attended. The time has an odd way of gaining about forty minutes in the twenty-four hours, which is a great worry to one's watch, as one has to be constantly putting it back, and no real gain to oneself in the way of prolonging life, as we shall catch it all up again on the return voyage.

It was still rather rough on Monday, though the sea gradually went down, and on Tuesday it was calm and lovely, and after breakfasting in the state-room I got up and was on deck before M. had finished his more elaborate meal below. It was pleasant to sit in the sun and sketch views of the sea, which was monotonous and calm, so calm that in this big ship there was but little motion— fast as we go, about twenty miles an hour, — and we are now only about six hundred miles from Newfoundland and in the iceberg region. I am very anxious to see one, yet hardly dare to wish it, as it involves danger. The Britannic, of the Cunard line, passed us on her homeward way, and signalled that she had met no ice. We had luncheon at one o'clock ; and the meals are always amusing, not only on account of the clever sparkling talk, but, this being an American line, one may always meet a surprise in some new dish, and to-day it took the form of " sea-pie."

After it we sat on deck tiU it grew damp and misty, and then Mr. G. invited us to his room, opposite ours, and he and M. and I had a most interesting long talk, chiefly on America and its possible development into English country life. Mrs. G. joined us, and we talked on tdl time to prepare for dinner at 6.30. To-day our fish was halibut, a very white, rather substantial fish ; and we wound up with pineapple, served as it should be — all the rind very carefully taken off, then torn with a fork, never cut, and sent up in delicious rough blocks, full of juice ; so much nicer than our dull slices. This evening" it grew rather thick, and the melancholy fog-horn sounded all night ; the Captain only got half an hour's sleep. It is wonderful how little life there is in mid- Atlantic ; to-day we were, I suppose, in about the middle of the open ocean, though not half wav through the voyage till to-night.

We have only seen two sailing vessels, one steamer, and a few gulls, and nothing else ; sometimes they see whales spouting, but they did not spout for us. Wednesday was a glorious day ; the fog cleared off, and the sun broke out on a sapphire sea, sparkling with diamond-spray. The white crests to the waves became smaller and fewer, and by twelve o'clock, when Mr. G. was ready to take us below, it was possible to walk with ease and confidence. He had promised to show us aU over the ship, and led us first, by a lift, to the stores, which were filled with everything that is necessary and even luxurious, to feed some thousand people for a week. There were separate rooms, which looked like frosted caves, for the butter and cream — the latter in long rows of hermeticaUy sealed bottles — for the meat and game, and for the fruit, apples, bananas, and pineapples.

The kitchen was a contrast in temperature, and was presided over by a very hot and amiable Irish cook, with two French ones, and four more assistants. In the bakehouse there were an enormous quantity of little loaves, ready baked, in long rows, for the one hundred and sixty firemen and forty-five sailors, who wdl want them for their five o'clock tea this afternoon. The crew, including stokers, &c, num ber about four hundred, all told. Our little procession next visited the steerage, and saw the emigrants' quarters ; many are Norwegians and Swedes, but there were some from almost all nations ; they have every comfort, and their quarters are really very nearly as good as ours are on the smaller Norsk steamers, and quite as airy and clean ; they are very well fed too, and but for an apparently superfluous quantity of babies, they looked very comfortable.

The second-class saloon is very handsomely fitted, and rejoices in the possession of a pianoforte. We made one hundred and forty miles southing since noon yesterday, so we ought to be getting warmer, and we are a little. One can't help making a great point of meals on board, and I always scan the bill of fare with interest for the new dishes ; to day we had " chicken-pot pie,'' wdth which we became intimately acquainted afterwards, and always met as a friend ; " head cheese" looked mysterious, and on Mr. G. sending for some for me, it appeared in the likeness of very good brawn ; indeed we live in the lap of luxury, or, as M. expresses it, " like fighting cocks." " Where is that champagne ? " said Mr. G. wearily. " Coming, sir, coming," answered the head steward nervously. " I've sent two men after it.

" Then now, send one woman. Is the champagne man dead ? " he continued, as nothing came. " No, sir, no, Mr. G. ; but they can't get the cork out." " Never mind the cork ; take the bottom out." After a cheery luncheon we went up to Mr. G's deck cabin and looked through a splendid book of photographs of Constantinople and the inhabitants thereof, which Mr. Terrell, the U.S. Minister to Turkey, brought to Mrs. G He was returning to Texas for a short holiday. Just before dinner Mr. C. saw a number of little birds struggling in the water, small and black, with white breasts ; and as they are known to be brought down on icebergs, and left floating when the ice goes down, there have pro bably been some here quite recently ; the sea water too this evening was only seventeen degrees Fahren heit. It was a little rough at night, and I woke up between whdes, as I was roUed against the edge of the berth and back again ; but it was not worth staying awake for.

Thursday the 19th was quite a rough morning ; the ship and everything in it was rolling about a good deal, and M. had left the ink-bottle open overnight. They sent me up some " corn bread " for breakfast, which, however, I did not much fancy, preferring the rolls, which are excellent, and more in harmony with those of the ship. At luncheon we tried " maple sugar," which is like a refined treacle, and may be eaten on bread or wdth puddings. We made a splendid passage yesterday, doing five hundred and four miles in the twenty four hours, and are now due south of Newfoundland — which screens us from all possibility of icebergs— and on a level with the north of Spain. There was a beautiful moon to-night, but it is not warm enough to remain on deck after dinner. On Friday I woke early, and found my watch had struck work, so waited for beds; four bells soon rang, and I lighted the electric light, and read the " History of America ; " and I know much more about the American War now than I ever did before.

At 8.10 there was a commotion, as the engines thoroughly and entirely stopped, and we slowed down to a walk ! I looked through my port, and saw H. N. rush on deck in a dressing-gown and slippers ; M. followed, in a shooting coat ; other people in waterproofs, and similar scanty attire — and all wddly excited. , . . And a pilot came on board ! It was a cold grey morning ; a sympathetic stewardess brought me' a milk-jug half full of cream with laminæ of ice throughout it, which she " thought I should like, as I was pretty well." The day passed pleasantly as usual, and after dinner we assisted, as audience, at a concert given by some of the passengers, who good-naturedly sang songs, for the benefit of sailors' orphanages on either shore. It lasted tdl ten o'clock, and we turned in, really sorry to think that our delightful voyage was practically over.

Saturday morning the 21st, about four A.M., the engines stopped ; it was dark, but the noisy fog horn soon told the reason. Much whistling and ringing of bells followed, and we lay-to in a thick PLATE II To/ace A 0 THE " PARIS," OF THE AMERICAN LINE fog tdl near eight, when we went down to breakfast. Mr. C. came down with the news that the Campania, the largest ship afloat, two thousand tons larger than ours, was in sight, coming out of New York Harbour and passing Sandy Hook ; so we ad hastened to see her, and to get our first sight of America. Felt like Columbus, and hurried through the last meal to get on deck, and found the fog had lifted, and left a pale grey sea with a dark grey shore. We soon steamed through the Narrows, protected by a great fort on either hand, and, with Staten Island's low green shores on the left, and the busy towm of Brooklyn on the right, cast anchor in the Bay.

From out of a crowd of shipping a little yellow quarantine boat glided up to us, to pass our emigrants. This took about half an hour, and then we slowly steamed up the great Harbour of New York. That city itself lay on the right, and Jersey city on the left ; while a colossal Statue of Liberty, three hundred feet high, presented to the States by the French Republic, crowned an island, and seemed to command the harbour. Some of the buildings were picturesque, but they were mostly warehouses, and the beauty lay in the rich colouring, expanse of water, and the life of the ferry-boats, and tugs, and sailing vessels, with which it was crowded. It was a slow business bringing the big ship up to the wharf, and amusing to watch the crowds of people on the landing-stage, waving handkerchiefs and hats, and our fellow-passengers responding.

Suddenly a vision of chocolate and gold shot in between us and the shore, and this was Mr. F. T. arriving in a special boat to meet us. I had not seen him for eight years, but knew him directly he stepped on deck, and he welcomed us most cordially. Meantime Mr. and Mrs. G. were greeted by their two sons and their daughter-in-law, and many acquaintances, all of whom were introduced to us, and we stood on deck talking, and watching the un lading for some time. At last, about twelve o'clock, we left the Paris, walking up the gangway into an enormous building where the Customs House Officers were regaling themselves by tossing over the luggage, including shirts, pictures, and the trousseau from Paris of a young lady at San Francisco, on to the floor. To us they were very kind, and after chalking some cabalistic signs on our boxes they let us go scot free, and Mr. T. soon led us downstairs and into his chocolate-and-gold ferry-boat, where chairs were arranged at the stern, and we were whizzed across the Harbour in a manner that recalled vividly the little steam launches of Stock holm.

Arrived at Jersey City, we found a special train waiting, with Mr. T.'s own private car attached. It contained a room, with numerous armchairs and a fire-place. A bedroom opened out of it, and presently, when the luggage was all on board, we discovered, with great satisfaction, that it comprised a dining-room also, and a kitchen beyond ! A luncheon-table was laid for eight, and the meal was as complete and as social as heart or appetite could wish, though the rattle and noise of the train made conversation rather difficult. So did the bones of the fish — an exceUent local one, caUed shad, but possessing such a large and complicated and curved anatomical system, that I don't think the fish itself can ever know where its bones ought to lie. The journey was not long, nor was the scenery striking.

We were soon out of Jersey City, crossing some of its straight streets, and then into New Jersey, a flat country overgrown by coarse, reedy grass, with the trees stiU leafless and brown. We crossed the Delaware River at Trenton, a fine, broad river, very picturesque higher up, but hero merely wide, with flat banks. Trenton has two merits : they make very pretty china, and it was also the scene of one of Washington's famous battles, where he defeated the Hessians by his little ruse of crossing the river on the ice, which took them by surprise, and crowned him with glory, in 1776, just after Christmas. We soon rattled into Philadelphia, and stopped there a few minutes for the young Gs. to take leave of their parents, as they were returning to New York, and to attach the engine to the other end of the train, to run us out to Merion, Mr. T.'s station, where, in another ten minutes, it pulled up, and we aU got out, except Mr. and Mrs. G., who live five miles further on.

It was with real regret that we took leave of them and their nice daughter, but we shall see them again. It was delighful to get out of the train into the soft spring air, and we enjoyed the five minutes' drive up to Mr. T.'s house ; passing two lovely Magnolia trees in full flower ; one white, one pink. After a talk in the pretty drawing-room, and some welcome tea given us by Miss T. and her aunt, Miss C, whde waiting for the luggage to arrive, we were taken up to our rooms. Mine was a lovely one, all pale green and pink ; the walls decorated with silver, with a silver cornice which runs over on to the ceiling ; three window's which open easily and wide, white and gold furniture and cut-glass washing things ; beautiful old prints on the walls, and roses in Venetian glasses all about. Upstairs M. has a big room with a long window and window seat, in which we established ourselves for a nominal rest, but were too tired to sleep !

So he unpacked, and I sat and watched the birds. For, to my joy, I had no sooner got there, than an entirely new pair of birds walked up the approach road, and hopped around on the lawn. They had bright red breasts, reddish-browm backs, and black heads, with very perky manners and rather sharp voices. The coloured footman who came in, told us they were the American Robin,* and that they had just arrived from the South, for, as their name indicates, they are migrants, and allied to our Black - * Merula migratoria. birds. Very handsome birds they are, nearly as large as our song Thrushes. I was very fortunate, for presently on to a branch of one of the large leafless Chestnut trees in front flew a pair of small Woodpeckers, with their unmistakable heads, red, but with backs in brown bars, like game birds.

By dinner-time fatigue was more overwhelming than before, but out of consideration for our probably giddy condition after the voyage, Mr. T. had invited no strangers, so the party was small. A most recherche dinner in an artistic room did us good, but they kindly let me retire before eleven o'clock. The next day being Sunday, we drove to church at Bala, about a mile off, passing several country houses like our host's, each in its own garden and lawn, and surrounded with trees ; but with no property beyond that attached, and with no fence from the road. This strikes one very much at first, for where there are gate-posts, which is not often, they do not put gates, and the division between the garden and the road is generally a beautifully kept strip of turf, or an ornamental hedge of Honey suckle, or of Pyrus Japonica, which was in beauty just now.

There were innumerable waggons and buggies with very good horses, aU going the same way, indeed quite a string ; but we had no difficulty in getting to our seats, though M. was immediately routed out of his by an autocratic old lady of ninety, who then directed Miss C to button her gloves. It was a good service, similar to ours, though varying a little in details, the Royal parts of the Litany being of course omitted. The sermon was for the poor of the cities, but I have yet to be con vinced that there are any poor there or elsewhere, for not a semblance of a cottage or a farm have I yet seen — hardly a cow ! We drove back, strolled about the garden, and stalked the birds ; a pair of Sandy mocking birds causing some excitement. The only absolutely English bird they have is the Sparrow ; the first pair were imported some fifteen years ago, to eat a particular kind of caterpillar.

They now overrun the continent. So do the caterpillars. And they bind up the stalks of their young trees with rags, like sore fingers, to baffle these caterpillars, who would otherwise soon be the death of them all. In the afternoon, Mr. T. drove us in his wagonette with a pair of very handsome trotting horses, to call on the Gs. about five miles off, who gave us tea and a warm welcome, but we had to hurry back, as we were to dine early. Mr. and Mrs. C. C. were the only visitors — both very agreeable people ; she was a niece of Motley the historian, author of " The Dutch Republic," whom we knew so well formerly when he was U.S. Minister in London. After a pleasant dinner came the evening in " the cabin." This is a little wooden house close by, containing two rather large rooms, decorated and lined with Mr. T.'s sporting trophies.

Amongst them is an enormous tarpon, from the Gulf of Mexico, and the rod and gaff that finished him. He weighed one hundred and twenty-four pounds. This beats salmon fishing ; even M.'s sixty-four-pounder of the Namsen must grow pale before that. There were also a fine moose-bead from Canada, antlers of deer, elk, and bear-skin rugs, and a fox's brush from the Blackmore Vale. Then six men from the orchestra at Philadelphia discoursed most excellent music, on piano, 'cello, and violins, really beautifully, for some two hours, whde we sat by a glowing fire of pine logs from Florida, with bright yellow flames, reminding me of our rowanwood fires in the chilly evenings in Norway. Monday 23rd was a fine bright morning, though the weather is certainly cooler than what we left in England, in spite of our being 60 much farther south.

The lilacs here are hardly out, the principal flowering shrubs in the gardens being For sythia suspensa, magnolias, and Judas trees. To day a long drive had been projected for us, as Mr. C. had kindly invited us to his stud farm, some fifteen miles off, and duly drove up about eleven o'clock with his fourdn-hand, to take us to it. The coach was worthy of the Magazine at Hyde Park, and the team also — brown wheelers and bay leaders, the former very powerful, as they had need to be, for in places the roads are heavy and hilly ; though as a rule, the main roads are well made and very hard, and the by-roads hardly better than tracks. Mr. C. had already come five or six mdes from Philadelphia, therefore at the end of another five he changed horses, and we went on through Berwyn, and past the Dover Hotel, a pretty spot, where people come out from the city to get fresh air in summer-time.

Always ascending, at the end of ten miles or more we came to the crest of a hill, and looked down on a wide rich cultivated valley, with a brook, Chester creek, running through it, and it looked very pretty and green and English, fading off into soft brown woods against the sky. We looked across them to where there was a sort of opening, and this was Valley Forge, where Washington encamped with his army through one bitter winter. We drove some way along the valley, and arri ving at the farm, I climbed down from the box, the rest of the party also dropping off the roof, and we went into the house, which was empty of everything save appliances, the young ladies of the party having engaged to do all cooking, the materials for which they had brought with them. They were ably assisted by H. N, whde Miss C. and I wandered about in search of the picturesque, and of wdd flowers, wdiich were, as yet, very few.

After luncheon, which did the chefs great credit (especially one dish of chopped cabbage, soaked in hot vinegar and hot cream, and served cold), we started off again, in two little carriages or waggons, the two young ladies and Mr. C. on their horses, and went to the stud farm, where we saw the horses, "Cadette " and " The Bard," and a very clever cob, and many mares and young ones in paddocks — fifteen thoroughbred yearlings together in a field. Then we went up to the race-course, where they galloped a horse in training ; the girls larked over some fences, and Mr. C. took M. in a buggy, behind an old trotter, who, in spite of his twenty-five years, showed what a mile in 2' 40" meant. Returning to the house, we soon resumed our seats on the coach as before, and with a fresh team turned homewards, changing en route to the morning team.

It was a fine interesting long drive, and Mr. C. made it very pleasant. He breeds horses exten sively, and has done some racing ; but racing, he says, has now gone down to the depths of lowness and blackguardism, so hardly any gentlemen engage in it. In some places they have races every day, merely as a vehicle for betting, and they are there fore of no use or advantage for the encouragement of breeding good horses. He has, like all our friends here, been much in England, and has driven four-in-hand all over it. He is an admirable whip, with first-rate horses ; two of the wheelers this turn were English, but they have but little need to import harness horses. I saw very few flowers ; one white one looked from the coach rather like a large anemone, and I tried to find out the name ; somebody suggested a daisy, but they then dismissed it as "a weedy" — their generic name for all wild flowers.

We got in about six o'clock and swallowed some Japanese tea, which, when quite strong, was clear and white as water ; it seemed foolish to put cream and sugar in, but the flavour was distinct and excellent, and very refreshing. To dinner came Dr. and Mrs. T. and Mr. B., the former well known in the scientific wrorld, and a great authority as an oculist ; and, like most clever men, especiaUy agreeable and kind. Mr. B. is one of the committee of the Local Hunt, and wdU arrange about our seeing the hounds on Wednesday. After they left we sat up some time discussing our plans and journey ; as, however pleasant our time here, and affording us a really necessary rest after the voyage, we are beginning to feel we ought to be getting on. The next day was to be devoted to Philadelphia, and so to ensure it we managed to start very late for the train, and only just had time to get into it, as the trains here do not stop at the stations one minute longer than is required for one set of passengers to tumble out, and for the others to scramble in, and on they glide, quite noiselessly, and with no signal : luggage they seem to have none.