A Year in Europe, comprising a journal of observations in England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Switzerland, the north of Italy and Holland

Front matter

A ¥tav in fEtirojic* VOLUME I A YEAR IN EUROPE COMPRISING & m.WSSB*AJL <m QKSSSBBT^IHKDStS IN ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, FRANCE, SWITZERLAND THE NORTH OF ITALY, AND HOLLAND. In 1818 and 1819. ia_?_M-» BY JOHN GRISCOM, PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND NATURAL PHILOSOPHY IN THE N. YORK INSTITU- TION; MEMBER OF THE LIT. AND PHIL. SOCIETY OFNETT-YOF-, &C. -*a»tsl0&— /JV TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. Me to=Porft : PUBLISHED BY COLLINS & CO. AND E. BLISS & E. WHITE, N. YORK H. C CAREY & J. LEA, PHILADELPHIA; AND WELLS & LILLY, BOSTON. Printed by A Paul, 72 JVaMa n-Jlmf. 1823. Southern District of A'ew York, ss. BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the sixth day of August, ia the forty-eighth year ol -Le Independence of the United States of America, John Griscom, of the said district, hath depo: ted io this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as Author, ia the words tV i;owing, to wit: A Year in Europe, comprisinga Journal of Observations in England, Scotland, Ireland.

France, Switzerland, the North of Italy, and Holland, in 1318 and 18 19. By John Griscom Professor of Chemistry and Natural Philosophy in the New-York Institution , Member of thc Literary and Philosophical Society of New- York, &c. In Two Volumes.*' In conformity to the Act of tbe Congress of the United States, entitled " an Act for the en eouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the time therein mentioned." And also to an Act, entitled " an Act, supplementaey to an Act, entitled an Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing *Dgraviog, and etching historical and other prints.'* JAMES DILL. Clerk of the Southern Dittrict of JYew-Y or1.

Preface

. The relations between America and Europe are be coming every day more interesting and important. The unexampled rapidity with which the commerce. agriculture, and arts of the United States are extend ing and increasing ; the extraordinary facilities now given to the social intercourse between the new and the old world ; and the unabated spirit of enterprize and industry, which prevails in many parts of Europe ; conspire to render these relations a concern of the greatest moment, — as tending, in no inconsiderable degree, to influence the tranquillity and happiness of a large portion of the civilized globe. Under such circumstances, it must be considered. by persons conversant with human nature, as ex tremely desirable, that the people on each side of the Atlantic, should become more intimately and perfectly acquainted with each other ; for it may, perhaps, be stated as a political, as well as social axiom, that the greater the intimacy, the greater probability of a cordial and pacific union ; — that many of the rancorous jealousies and deep rooted prejudices, which are so apt to prevail between nations, as well as sects and neighbourhoods, would soften into kindness, were opportunities afforded of studying the bright as well as the dark sides of each other's character.

And it re quires but little ingenuity to perceive, that were there between nations a pervading sense of each other's merits, and a just feeling for each other's prosperity, it would be infinitely more difficult for the disaffected Vol.. I a VI

PREFACE.

. to bring about that condition of things, which is the most disastrous to human improvement, a state of open warfare, — and infinitely more easy to suppress the evil when it did prevail. From these considerations it will be admitted, that books of travels, when written under the proper quali fications, are among the most useful kinds of literature ; — that they furnish the principal means by which distant communities and nations become acquainted with each other's peculiarities, by which the useful arts are extended, and morals and manners are rendered more diffused and impressive. It will be admitted also, that however beaten the track over which travellers may have passed, it is impossible to exhaust the stores of useful illustration, or to overcharge the picture of national and local re presentation, as long as truth and feeling guide the hand and qualify the pencil.

It can never be said ol the describer of nature, and more especially of hu man nature, as it may of the orator who confines him self to some particular topic, that he has left nothing to be desired. So vast is the field of humanity, and so in finite are the shades which diversify the moral condi tion of the human race, that it is scarcely possible for two individuals to follow each other in the same, precise track of description. Not only do different ob servers see the same thing in different points of view. but each one has his particular sphere of observation, and will almost unavoidably throw some new light upon the subjects he attempts to elucidate. Hence every person who visits a foreign country will at once perceive, that, how diligent soever he may have been in studying that country through the medium of books, —there is a continual variety of untouched descrip-

PREFACE.

. VII tion, and that a small part only of the whole has been laid before him. But notwithstanding these obvious truths, the Au thor cannot assure himself, that, even by the most re flecting and liberal-minded readers, he will be deemed to have acted wisely in exposing his sheets to the public eye. His journey was by no means undertaken with a fixed intention of exhibiting its occurrences beyond the circle of his family and friends. The motives to the voyage, were the renovation of impaired health, and the hope of spending a short time in Eu rope, both profitably and agreeably. The rapidity with which the journey was performed, and the mul tiplicity of objects which engaged his attention, prevented him from doing little more, while travelling, than to bestow a faithful attention to his note book ; and since his return, other unavoidable avocations have delayed the filling up of the outline ; but this delay, he trusts, has not been without its benefit, in the further development which time has given to $orae features of the narrative.

The writer is aware that " A Year in Europe," in two volumes, thick octavo, may possibly startle the cautious reader, and induce him to infer, that it either contains a great deal of fanciful speculation, upon things hastily seen ; or that it consists of a prosing detail of what most persons already know. He also recollects the jocose threat of a venerable philo sopher in Milan, who, in pleasantly reproaching him for staying so short a time in that city, and in adverting to the superficial habits and statements of many travellers, said : " If you go home and make a book. I will publish in the journals of Italy, that you were in the city of Milan only three days!" But not-

PREFACE.

. withstanding the danger on both hands,— of being either too dull or too fanciful, — the Author would sug gest to those who think that the size of the work is disproportionate to the period of the journey, the re flection, that in nothing is it possible to avail one's self of the advantages of industry, to a greater extent, than in travelling: — that, as it is very easy to spend months, and even years, in a single place, without exhausting the subjects of inquiry, — so is it possible by activity and diligence, to see and learn much in a very limited time. The objects which primarily engaged the writer's attention, were literary and benevolent institutions, prisons, manufactories, and distinguished works of art ; and, as far as opportunities were afforded, characters connected with such labours of utility and philanthropy.

Morals and religion were topics at all times interesting, and were not overlooked, when occasions presented for observation and inquiry. On the subject of institutions, the Author believes he has been more full than any preceding American traveller in Europe. This part of his descriptions may appear to some readers, to have introduced a tautology of narration that had better been avoided. But, regard ing public institutions, as among the most intelligible evidences ofthe genius and character ofa people, he thought it right to omit nothing in the details to the reader, which he deemed it important to notice in order to satisfy his own inquiries. He has only to express the hope, that the peculiarities both of sub ject and of style, which may be perceived to have arisen from the nature of his associations, will be readily excused by the candid reader. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. PAGt

Letter II

— Liverpool. — Custom House — blind school — W. Roscoe — Nelson's monument — Liverpool Institution — fund for presenting impositions — society of Friends — extensive commerce — increase of population — Athenæum and Lyceum — botanic garden — gas light — hour of dining — hospitality 25

Letter III

— Journey to Manchester. — Appearance of the town — manufactures — glazing house — printing factory. Ardwick. — cutting velvets — J. Dalton — Dr. Henry — counterfeit products — infirmary and lunatic asylum — hotels — public baths — Chetham's hospital — collegiate church — public amusements — population — science and learning — philosophical society — Lancasterian school — Sunday schools — peculiarities in dialect 36

Letter IV

— Journey to Birmingham. — Litchfield — Dr. Darwin — Uttoxeter — stage company — arrival at Birmingham — factories — buttons — tea-trays — snuff-boxes — literary institutions — top of the coach — Warwick — coachmen — Blenheim — Oxford — general appearance — beautiful walks — colleges — libraries — students' dress — immorality — chalk, flint — agriculture — population— Henley — succession of villages — arrival in London 53

Letter V

— London. — first impressions — yearly meeting of the society of Friends — British and Foreign Bible Society — Lord Teignmouth — Sir Joseph Banks — conversations — Sir Humphrey Davy — House of Commons — Westminster Abbey — court of chancery — speakers in Parliament — W. Wilberforce — Sir S. Romilly — fl. Brougham — Lord Castlereagh — Canning, &c. — reporters — luncheons — king's birth day — anniversary of British and Foreign School Society — exhibition of the children — Duke of Sussex — dinner — Benjamin West — his galleries — bazaar in Soho square. 6j

Letter VI

— London. — country seats — Chingford church — prorogation of Parliament — procession — state coach, and other equipages — Seneca Indians — British Museum — its endowment and contents — Royal Academy of painting — West — Trumbull — Alston — Leslie — Newton — annual exhibition — its academicians and lectures — Day's collection — Tottenham, mineralogy and meteorology — Rundle & Bridge — diamonds and jewels — menagerie at Exeter Change— British Gallery in Pall- Mall— Bullock's Museum— Westminster gas factory — the Tower and its various contents — Borough road school — Joseph Lancaster— charity children in St. Paul's Cathedral — Society of Arts, Adelphi — panorama of Athens —city election at Guildhall — British freedom — West and East India docks — Isle of Dogs — Surry Institution — Sowerby's Museum — Greenwich — the hospital for invalids — Royal Observatory — J. Pond — the apparatus — large camera obscura — deaf and dumb school — Dr. Watson — school for the blind — Philanthropic Society its buildings and operations — Chelsea hospital — Chantrey, and his elegant sculpture — Linwood collection of pictures in worsted — London institution — dinner of the Royal Society at Greenwich — Bond-street— Dubourg's models — P. Colquhoun — Dr. Fothergill's country seat — Elizabeth Fry — chemical factory at Stratford — Coade & Sealy's artificial marble — printing by steam — British and Foreign School Society— Duke of Sussex— visit to Newgate with Elizabeth Fry — Westminster election— hackney coaches — London streets — pavements — female degradation — splendour of the shops — supply of water — drainage — population of London markets — meat shops — public squares — royal parks *-"*"

Letter VII

— Departure from London.— Weather— Hounslow— large wagons— Slough— Sir W. Herschell— large telescope! — conversation—Windsor Castle — the King — furniture — Windsor park —Eton college — Wiltshire — Whitehorse hill— Bow wood— barrows. Bath. — population — buildings — pump room — institutions — sedan chairs — good roads — broad wheels. Bristol. — Redcliff church — cathedral — charities of Bristol — thatched cottage — fine views — hot wells — R. Reynolds — Dr. Pritchard— commerce — river Avon — improvements in navigation— Clifton 146

Letter VIII

— Barlev-Wood Cottage.— Hannah More— her conversation, &c. — Wrington — Langford inn — provincial dialect of Somersetshire — Bridgwater — its antiquity — Taunton — cob cottages — potwallopers — Honiton. Exeter — cathedral — goal and bridewell— Haldon hill — fine view — Totness — Ivy-Bridge— Plymouth — large ships— cost — Leskard — emigration to America- Cornwall. Truro. — Carpet manufactory — smelting of tin — tin ore — revenue — Burncoose •"•** 1 ÆTTER IX.— Cornwall.— MiNiNG-united mines— mining captains — raising the ore — different ores — veins or loads — underlie — depth of mines — mine under the sea — products of mines — prosit and loss — structure of mines — steam engines — adits — support of the sides and roof — labour of mining — morality of the miners— Scorrier— mineralogical cabinet — geology of Cornwall — antiquity of the tin mines — statistics — quantity of metal and value of the mines — Falmouth. — R. W. Fox -Truro philosophical society — Redruth — Grampound — St. Austel — Polgooth — antiquities of Cornwall — manners.

Plymouth dock yard — market — varieties of fish — Mount Edgecumbe — Breakwater — smuggling — Dartmoor. Exeter — mine of manganese — literary and philosophical institution — hospital — insanehospital — antiquity — agriculture of Devon— cider — Honiton — Mere — Fonthill — W. Beckford. Salisbury — cathedral. Southampton ..186

Letter X

— Southampton — Canute's lesson of humility — passage to Cowes — Netley Abbey — Cowes — Newport — Carisbrook castle — southern coast of the Isle of Wight — picturesque scenery — Niton — small church — seat of Earl Dysart — Shanklin — Brading — Ryde. Portsmouth — dock yard — dry dock — block machinery — Brunei — circular saws — Chichester — CoDins' monument — Gothic cross — ingenious charity — Arundel — Worthing. Brighton. — Population — sea-bathing — shampooing — use of donkeys — packets for France 223

Letter XI

— Passage to Dieppe. — Alderman Wood — French sailors and gens-d'armes — examination at custom house — beggars — church — Normandy cap— female barber — journey to Rouen — suspended lamps— cathedral of Rouen — convent or nunnery — table d'hote — Mount St. Catherine — bridge of boats — French diligence — route to Paris — chalk formation — vineyards — Marly water works — attachment to Bonaparte — preference to Americans — entrance of Paris — Sabbath evening — Elysian fields — Meurice's hotel — garden of Thuilleries — female delicacy — museum of the Louvre — statuary— picture gallery— pont des arts — ascent of Madame Blanchard — fiacres and cabriolets — Abb6 Gaultier — Count l'Asteyrie — Garden of Plants — Dr. Gall's lectures — village of St. Denys — Montmorency — Montmartre — attack of the Allies on Paris — telegraph — Institute, its sittings — Luxemburg — paintings and garden — meeting with Friends — plain dress — Adet — Fourcroy's sisters — Abb-5 Hauy — his cabinet — ride to St. Cloud — the palace and garden — Versailles — palace and garden — play of the fountains — the water works — Grand and Petit Trianon — Vauquelin — fete of St. Louis — vast concourse — singular amusements — balloon — illuminations — Bishop Gregoire — Gymnastic school — school of mines — museum of French monuments — fountain of the elephant — Charles' philosophical apparatus— cemetery of P£re la Chaise — Institut Academique — Freres de la religion Chretienne — Professor Berzelius — J. Owen — Gay Lussac — caffes and restaurateurs — river Seine — sale of books — caricatures — Boulevards — various shows — crowded streets — manner of keeping the Sabbath — state of religion and morals 238

Letter XII

— Departure from Paris — Essonne. Fontainebleau — the forest — gardens and palace — Nemours — Montargis — the Loire — Cosne — cannon founder)- — female influence — LaCharite — Nevers — mendicity — Moulins — fine country — wooden shoes — nuts — agriculture — use of oxen — St. Gerand — Roanne — mode of spinning in the fields — Mount Tarare — Puy de Dome — Tarare — extortion at inns — mine of Chessy — La Tour — arrival at Lyons — Rhone and Soane — amusements — museum — La Fourvieres — hospital Antiquailles — Notre Dame de Fourvieres — chapel of St. Just — Catholic procession — silk manufactory — metropolitan church — curious clock — a dinner — streets and appearance of Lyons — ancient mosaic — La Charite — Foundling hospital — general hospital — college of Lyons — ancient aqueduct — republican cruelties — road to Geneva — Nantua — opinions respecting Bonaparte — Perte du Rhone. Geneva. — Moulinier — sectarian divisions— table d'hote — Rans de Vache — Professor Pictet — Dr. Marcet 292

Letter XIII

— Geneva.— Professor de CandoUe— Mad. Vernet— jaunt to Chamouny — Savoy — Bonneville — valley ofthe Arve — sublime scenery — water falls — St. Martin — Salenche — evening, and distant view of Mount Blanc — Char-a-Banc — St. Gervais — Servoz — Roman chateau — Chamouny — Glacier de Bosson — tenderness of the guides — passage of the ice — the Priur**5 — hotels — collections of minerals aud plants — ascent to La Flegere — Panoramic view of Mount Blanc — Avalanches — Glaciere de Bois — icy cavern — disaster — Mount Blanc covered with ice — simplicity of manners — natural history of Mount Blanc — return to Geneva — president Vernet and family — professor Prevost — new literary institution — professor Jurine and his cabinet — academy of painting — models of the Alps — Mrs. Marcet — Alderman Wood — evening party at professor Pictets — credulity — arrival of two English companions. . 334

Letter XIV

— Geneva. — Insane asylum — prison — pauperism — school of mutual instruction — departure — fine scenery on the lake — Coppet — Madame de Stael — Rolle — Morges. Lausanne. — Benevolent English lady — prison — support of the poor — education, savings banks — road to Vevey — superior vineyards — Vevey — excursion on the lake— castle Chillon — numerous clocks — dress of the peasants — agriculture — Bulle — convent of capuchins, uncleanly and idle — Gruy ere. Friburg. — Chanoine Fontaine — interesting conversation — Pere Girard — museum of paintings, &c. — education — hospital of Friburg — cretins — Jesuits' College — opposition to Pere Girard — situation of Friburg — canton of Berne— curious costume. Berne. — Female exercises — Dr. Wyttenbach — library and museum — Haller — hospital of Berne — road to Hofwyl — establishment of Emmanuel de Fellenberg — Vehrly — importance of such a system of instruction— count de Villevielle — village of Riechenbach — beauties of Berne — Arburg — lake Bienne and J. J- Rousseau — merriment of tbe vintage — manner of collecting the grapes — St. Blaise — Neufchatel — secretary Montmollin — captain Courant — hospital — wine press — public spirited citizens — mercenary soldiers — ascent of the Jura — extensive watch factory — Chaux-de-fond — trade in watches — Locle — M. Houriet— charity school — aqueduct cut through a mountain — descent of the Jura — Yverdun — Pestallozi and his institution ; his character — Lausanne — return to Geneva — Simond de Sismondi 36 1

Letter XV

— Geneva. — Public voitures — pledges of a bargain, or arrhes — laws and government of Switzerland — professor Pictet — bibliotheque universel — beauties of Geneva. — mechanical ingenuity — departure for Milan — Thonon — Ripaille — Vivian — St. Gingoulph— canton of La Valais — St. Maurice — a hermitage — credulity — murder of the Theban legion — cascade of the Pissevache — Martigny — great devastation by a sudden flood — Goitre. Sion. — Hospital — companions in the Voiture — Glis — church and charnel-house — Brieg — ascent of the Simplon — Napoleon route — Geology — village of Simplon — galleries — excellence of the road — Domo D'Ossola — Catholic superstition — Fariola — Lake' Maggiore — Borromean islands — Isola Bella — colossal statue of Borromeus — Sesto — Gallerate— church and ceremony at Rho — arrival at Milan — superb view from the cathedral 425

Letter XVI

— Milan.— The great hospital— surgeon Moriji— the foundling hospital — the grand Duomo, its dimensions — statuary — tomb of St. Charles — his character — Monti, the poet — the naumachia — the echo — triumphal arch — picture of the Lord's Supper — the Zecca, or mint— count Moscati — the Brera — astronomical observatory — library — Acerbi — the prison — school of Mines — hospital of Trivulzi — Ambrosian library — Angelo Mai, his discoveries — Petrarch's copy of Virgil — dress of the Milanese — mendicity — population — departure for Pavia — canal — church of Certusa — Pavia — the university, professors, and course of instruction — the hospital — towers — river Ticino — the Po — stage company — a Cicisbeo — Voghere — out-door work of women — poor peasantry — plain of Marengc—Tortona— cultivation — fine effect of the Italian language — morals — passage of the Appenines — Voltaggio— the Bochetta — Campomarone — fast day — a quarrel — arrival at Genoa — beauty of the country and prospect 459

Letter XVII

— Genoa The weather— English family— a steam-boat — the university — its classes — reading room — light housepalace of Doria — the great hospital — Maniacs — police of Genoa — church of St. Andrews — San Stephano — a dinner — monks and priests — small-pox — streets of Genoa — schools for deaf and dumb —^palaces — Albergo de Poveri — statue of Michael Angelo — climate of Genoa — markets — arbutus unido — departure for Marseilles in a steam-boat — the crew — beautiful scenery of the coast curiosity exoited — embarrassment — saline d'hyere — the sabbath isles d*%yeres — orangeries — fig-trees — entrance of Marseilles — surprise at seeing a steam-boat ■ . A YEAR IN EUROPE. ■ »a«-