Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia; to which are added the Account of a journey into Persia in 1812, and an abridged history of Persia since the time of Nadir Shah. Translated from the French

Front matter

LETTERS FROM THE CAUCASUS AND GEORGIA, fye. fye. fye. r London: Printed by C. Roworth, Bell-yard , Temple-bar. ( aaAa. maaaa/a'/// Aw.i//r a/, //aa ////aa /a a ■ 'eke/a /rr//,, A AA rA (/""'A ;/*'"/ '"' //"' '''■>/""<'' ■ J.Oarit SaJp'. LETTERS FEOM THE CAUCASUS AND GEORGIA; TO WHICH ARE ADDED, THE ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY INTO PERSIA in 1812, AND AN ABRIDGED HISTORY OF PERSIA SINCE THE TIME OF NADIR SHAH. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, AND ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXXIII. TRANSLATOR'S

Preface

. The original of this work was written in German, and is anonymous ; it is however generally considered in the society of St. Petersburg, to be precisely what the reader is led to believe; the joint composition of a gentleman and a lady, travelling through and residing in the countries they describe. The author of the first division of the work, which is entitled Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia, has been described to her present translator as an amiable and VI

PREFACE.

. very accomplished person ; such indeed as a perusal of her Letters most happily pour trays. Her husband, author of the remain ing portions of the volume, is said to be a M. Freygan, son of a German Physician in the service of the Emperor of Russia; who, having been educated for the diplo matic profession, was dispatched from Tiflis in 1812 as Conseiller de Cour, during a period of great anxiety for Russia, in con sequence of the recent French invasion, upon a mission to the Court of Abbas Mirza, the hereditary Prince Royal of Persia, at Tabriz ; at the time that the British Embassy, under the Right Honorable Sir Gore Ouseley, was expected to arrive there. The French translation of the travels of Monsieur and Madame Freygan was the work of M. de Struve, the Russian minister

PREFACE.

. VII at Hamburgh : it is from this that the present version has been made. The English translator's object has been, to observe such a fidelity as it is presumed the authors would themselves have prescribed. While nothing has been added to the text, nothing has been omitted ; except where there occurred some repetitions of obser vations, and a few passages, that the au thors' own revision would probably have expunged as immaterial. Although responsible for the notes, the translator will not offer for them any apo logy ; trusting they may be found not only pertinent, but frequently necessary illustra tions ; whatever justice there may be in the remark, that " notes are the baggage of an author/' yet are they, on many occasions, found to be his indispensable travel ling equipage.

PREFACE.

. Such a spelling of Asiatic names has been adopted, as would appear indicated by the most approved authorities, to suit a correct pronunciation in English ; although, where a long established and general use has confirmed the corrupt writing of a proper name (that for instance of Mahomet) the charge has been avoided, however wanton, of pedantry; by not selecting any of the variations, under which the better Euro pean masters of Oriental literature have presented them. It remains only for the translator, to express her gratitude to Sir Gore Ouseley, for having in a most obliging manner allowed a friend to select, from his portfolio, materials for the two larger engravings which accompany the present volume. That, which presents a view of Tiflis, was taken by Mr. Wagel of Dresden, an

PREFACE.

. IX excellent draftsman, employed by Count Mushkin Pooshkin : the other, exhibiting a view of Sion near Kobi, with the enormous Pyramid of Ghazi Beg in the distance, is from a sketch by Sir Gore Ouseley him self. Of the latter scene it may be necessary to add a few words, inasmuch as this is not spoken of by the fair traveller, although she twice passed near to it in her journeys by Kobi. She tells us indeed, in her fourteenth Letter, written upon the 12th November, the only time when it seems her mind was sufficiently unem barrassed to take much notice of the scenery, that she made this part of her passage during snow and such inclement weather, as would necessarily preclude a lady from speculating much upon the objects on either side her track. This en graving has therefore been placed as a frontispiece, where it is presumed that it X

PREFACE.

. may be an acceptable representation of one of the most striking scenes in the wilds of Caucasus, rendered additionally interesting by the romantic site and grotesque character of the fortified village of Sion. CONTENTS. Page. Departure 4 Moscow 5 Toola — Voronez ... 7 The Steppes 8 Calmucks 11 Gipsies 12 Cossacks 13 Travelling in the Steppes 15 New Tcherkask . . . .16 Pheasants 17 Stari Tcherkask . ... 18 Axai 19 A Cossack story ... 20 Jegerlick 22 Quarantine 23 Elborus 24 Georgefsk 26 Caucasus 27 Mozdok 28 The robbers' valley . . 29 Tcherkass banditti . . _ . 30 The river Terek . . . .31 Travelling under escort . 32 Small forts 33 Tchetchinzi 34 A false alarm .... 35 Wladi Caucaus .... 36 Wild deer 37 Caucasus 38 Road over Caucasus . .39 General del Pozzo ... 40 Outrage of the Tchetchinzi 4 1 Tchetchinzi tradition . . .43 Tchetchinzi 44 Page.

Mountain scenery ... 47 Caucasus 48 Mountain passes ... 49 Formation of the hills . . 50 Productions — Population 5 1 Manners of the Caucasians 52 . Religion 53 Tchetchinzi 54 Ossitinians 55 Mourning — Revenge . .56 Tawlinziand other tribes . 57 Kabardians 58 Wonders of Caucasus . . 59 Caucasus 60 Early history . . . .61 Cyrus— Turks .... 62 Russian influence . . * 63 Entrance to the Mountains 64 Balta 65 Russian policy .... 66 General Kasibek ... 67 Missionaries 68 Arms of the Ossitinians . 69 Mountain road .... 70 Lars 71 Derial 72 Mount Kasibek .... 73- An oriental dinner . . _ 74 The Good-gara . . . .75 Kobi 76 Mount Kashoor ... 79 Hermits 80 Kobi 84 Kashoor CONTENTS Page- Death of Peter. . . .144 Taimouras 145 Heraclius 146 Death of Catherine II. .149 of Heraclius . .150 Georgian trade . . .151 Mamalukes . . . .152 Ports ofthe Caspian . . 155 Badkoo — Naphtha, &c. . 156 Ghilan silks .... 157 Projected trade . . .158 Public institutions . .159 Prince Czizianow . . .160 Military obsequies . .161 Jaffier Kooli Khan . . 162 Persian dinner . . . . 1 63 Receipt for a Pilaw . . 1 64 Persian customs . . .165 manners . . .167 A Georgian spring . .168 Tiflis gardens . . . .169 Georgian ladies . . .170 Ancient customs . . .171 Persian jealousy . . .172 The Harram . . . . 1 74 Persian ladies . . . . 1 75 The small-pox . . . .176 Count Moussin Pouschkin 177 The Ghebers . . . .178 Zoroaster 179 The sacred fire . . .180 Naphtha 182 Fire-worshippers . . .183 Naphtha 184 Badkoo 185 Georgian marriage . .187 The wedding day . . .188 Burials — Mourning . .190 Climate of Georgia . .191 Vegetable productions . 192 A rising of the people . 199 The insurrection quelled 201 An Avalanche .... 202 Future plans .... 203 Page.

Basket-carriage ... 88 Mountain refuge ... 89 Kristowaja-gara ... 90 Good-gara 91 Avalanche 92 Kashoor mountain . . 94 Alarming accident . . 97 Ploughing oxen ... 99 English Romancers . .100 Ananoor — Duchet . .101 Georgian Cookery . .102 Palace of Heraclius . . 1 03 Hot Springs— Tiflis . .104 Msket 105 Saint Nino . . . .107 Tombs of Georgian Czars 1 09 Ancient idolatry . . .110 Caverns — Lesgees . .111 Pompey 112 Approach to Tiflis . .113 Georgian carpets . . .114 Etymology of Georgia . 115 Amazons 116 Ancient coins — Albania 117 Colchis — Iberians . .118 Genealogy of the Georgians 1 1 9 Georgian history . . .120 Church 124 Language of Georgia . 1 25 Georgian literature . .126 Musical instruments . .127 Tiflis 128 The Bazar 130 Caravanserais . . . .131 Merchandize— The Kaleoon 132 Medium of circulation . 1 33 Sulphureous baths . .134 Champoing 135 Georgian ladies' toilet . 136 Tiflis scenery . . . .137 Peter the Great . . .139 Derbent 141 The Turks and Russians CONTENTS XIII Page.

New Governor General 204 The author's return . . 205 Passage of the mountains 208 Banditti 213 Georgefsk 214 Plague — Insurrection .217 Constantinogorsk . . .218 Risks of the Plague . .219. Revolters — Constantinogorsk 221 Kibitki— The Beshtau 222 The Camel mountain . . 223 Baths of Constantinogorsk 224 Mineral waters of Russia 225 Metschoukh . . . .226 The hot mountain . . .227 Colony of Scots . . .228 Ruins of Madschar . . 229 The Madschars — Hungarians, &c 230 Dr. Sucharew . . . .231 Medical regimen . . . 232 Charms of Kisladowsk . 233 Drinking the waters . . 234 Scenery 235 Cold bath 236 Enmity of the Tcherkass 237 Narzdna 238 A sick child .... 239 Its death 241 And parents' grief. . . 243 Mourning 244 And further distress . . 245 French invasion . . . 246 Moscow burnt .... 247 The grave violated . . 248 Fertility— Plague . . .249 Dissemination ofthe plague250 Tcherkass government . 25 1 Authors' uncle's death - 252 Order of recal .... 253 Rostov — Nakshivan . .254 Quarantine 25_5 Moscow 257 Page.

Preface of Journey to Tabriz .... 261—264 Somhetia ....'. 266 Ancient bridge . . . 267 Copper mines .... 268 Cold climate .... 269 Persian inroad . . . 270 Extensive scenery . . .271 Charræ 272 M. Licinius Crassus . . 273 Persian frontier . . . 274 Village alarmed . . . 275 Eitch-mai-adzen . . . 276 Armenian relics . . . 277 St. Gregory .... 278 Ararat 379 Mount Macis .... 280 Reception in camp . . 282 Persian discipline . . . 283 Houssein Kooli Khan . 284 Sarbazes and Artillery . 285 The Mehmandar . . .286 The Kaleoon .... 287 Erivan 288 Armenia 289 Semiramis 290 Ara 291 Aram 292 Hannibal 293 Lucullus — Pompey . . 294 Mithridates 295 Irrigation 296 The Emir ab .... 297 Bed of roses — Ice . . 298 Persian civilities . . . 299 The hill of serpents . . 300 Great heat 301 Nakshivan 302 Sarbazes 303 The Araxes .... 304 Media 305 Gurgur 306 Maraud — Sofian . . 307 Presents CONTENTS XIV Page.

Captain Elton .... 352 Caravanserais .... 353 Travelling in Persia . . 355 Persian army . . . .356 Learned men . . . .35/ Poets ...... 358 Royal designations . .359 Titles 360 TheBeglerBeg . . .361 Persian comedy . . . 362 Wrestling 363 Sir Gore Ouseley . .364 Negotiation .... 365 Abbas Mirza . . . .366 The Author's return from Tabriz 367 Abridged history of Persia 371 Houssein — Mahomet the Afghan 372 Ashroof — Thamas . .373 Abbas— Nadir Khan . 374 Nadir Shah 375 Ali Kooli Khan . . .376 Adel Shah— Ibrahim . 377 Shahrookh 378 Kureem — Zukee . . . 379 AboolFutteh— AliMoorad 380 Jaffier 381 Looft Ali ... . 384 Aga Mahomet . . . 386 Mahomet Shah . . . 387 Futteh Ali Shah . . .392 Page. Arrival at Tabriz . . .309 British officers . . . .310 Volcanos and earthquakes 3 1 1 Royal audience . . .312 Ancient ceremony . .313 Abbas Mirza . . . .314 Futteh Ali Shah . . .315 Tabriz 316 CUmate 320 Mazanderan . . . .321 The pestilential wind . .323 Agriculture 324 Opium 325 Tobacco, saffron . . .326 Mummy, hannah, cotton 327 Fruits 328 Flowers 330 Minerals 331 Phirous Kooh . . . .332 Pearls 333 Animals 334 Insects, birds, fish . . 335 Persian character . . .336 Turks and Persians . . 337 Religious ceremonies . 343 Talismans — Language . 345 Penmanship — Arts . . 346 Public buildings . . . 347 Manufactories .... 348 Trade 349 Afghans 350 Mercantile enterprise . 35 GLOSSARY OF A FEW PROPER NAMES, THAT OCCUR IN THE FOLLOWING WORK, WITH OTHER MEMORANDA.

Gara, Russ. a mountain. Kasibek, a corrupt Russian spelling of Ghazi Beg, the Arabic and Turkish name of a lofty peak in Caucasus, which implies the hero qfthe true faith. The height of Ghazi Beg has been estimated at 14,400 feet above the Black Sea. The sketch of a plant annexed to the View, p. 258, where this mountain is also seen covered with snow, is too small for the satisfaction of a botanist ; but has been copied exactly after the original, which was drawn from the Cerastium Ghazi Beg, found by Dr. Parrot at 1808 toises above the level of the sea. Stara or Starai, Russ. old. Stepan Sminda or Zminda, Russ. Holy Stephen. ERRATA. Page 280, in the heading, for MAUS read MACIS. 363, line 19, for cadence of dram read cadence of a drum. DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. Church, Monastery, and Castle of Sion . . . to face Title.

Tiflis, from the Great Cemetery Page 113 A Persian Cavalier smoking, and Mount Ararat . . . 248 The Maps to be placed at the end of the Volume. LETTERS FROM THE CAUCASUS AND GEORGIA. B LETTERS I HUM THE CAUCASUS AND GEORGIA.

Letter I

Valday, 1 st September, 1811. I am no longer in suspense; for our separation is decided. Adieu, my dear friend, and you, ye much loved shores of the Neva, farewell: a long journey lies before us; and, when I think of traversing the inhospitable Caucasus, my heart sinks within me for the safety of our Andre, who is not yet three years old; and for dear little Catherine, born but three weeks ago. Yet we are with their father; so I calm myself, and hush all fears. What madness, you may exclaim, to go to Tiflis at this season ; and with two infants, one of whom is only just born. Ah! my friend, marry, and love your husband — then will you enter into my feelings. b2 DEPARTURE. I promised you an account of our journey. May it furnish no other details, than those of the happy pilgrimage of a family, induced to settle under another sky by the hopes of better fortune !

Be that as it may ; you here receive the first number of my Journal. Valday is a pretty little town situated upon an eminence surrounded by hills; and by lakes studded with islands. In one of these, within a thick wood, stands an ancient monastery, which formerly was very rich, and possessed of a con siderable domain in this beautiful country. The delicacy of my health has precluded a visit to the convent chapel, where I might have invoked the Supreme Protector of innocence in behalf of my children: but at our return from Georgia, I will discharge this duty by the fervent grati tude I shall then offer up. May God in his mercy direct us! We stopped in Simagoria, a large village a short distance from Valday, at a good inn upon a rising ground, whence we enjoyed a most de lightful prospect. I say nothing to you of the Valday cracknels, nor of the throng of girls that tease the traveller to buy them. My little Andre calls them Valday bonbons. Adieu, till we reach Moscow. MOSCOW.

Letter II

Moscow, 5 th September, 1811. I am glad I have seen Moscow. — This great, this superb capital, the ancient residence of our sovereigns, is big with the recollection of mighty events; its celebrated Kremlin, the antique palace of the Czars, calls to mind a series of deeds ever memorable in Russian history : the crowd of its churches bearing testimony to the piety of our fellow-countrymen, the magnifi cent mansions and streets without end — all in spire respect and wonder. Independently of its surprising extent, Mos cow awakens in the soul some grand reflections. How many are the storms which this ancient metropolis of the Russian name has dispelled or withstood! With what valour have its inhabitants repelled, at various times, the Poles and the Tartars! notwithstanding these bold in vaders had, on several occasions, advanced so far as to have nearly secured their temporary conquests.

Russia, compelled to bear the yoke of a barbarous enemy for nearly three centu- MOSCOW. ries, presents a rare instance of perseverance and courage, which at length triumphed over all. The Spanish history alone offers some thing similar to ours; in the efforts of a people, whose struggles with the Moors, for more than six hundred years, were crowned with a similar success. The noble examples, which Spain has renewed at this day, sufficiently show, that a nation of lofty character, and steady in its energy, may meet with occasional reverses, but can never be subdued. The view of Moscow has drawn me into this slight digression. All that is beautiful or curious in this magni ficent city, is too well known to render any de tail of it necessary from me. Neither time in deed, nor the state of my health, has permitted me to go over it as I would have done. This pleasure I reserve for our return. TOOLA — VORONEZ.

Letter III

New-Tcherkask, 331 versts from Kamenskaja, 10th October, 1811, Upon entering the wild country of the steppes, I was attacked with a burning fever, which de tained us for ten days at Stanitza Kamenskaja, two hundred and forty-five versts* from Voronez. My strength still fails me ; but I am otherwise recovered, and hasten to resume the thread of my story. At Torjok, between Valday and Moscow, I saw some works in Russia and other leathers, of extraordinary beauty, and in the best taste. The distance from Moscow to Voronez presents nothing worthy of remark, except at Toola; where we stayed to admire the steel and iron manufactures. With a little perseverance, this industrious establishment will equal the same fabric in other European states ; and Russia will feel that, with her diverse races of people, her various climates, and immense wealth in every * See Appendix, No. 1 .

THE STEPPES. species of production, she is a world within herself. How pleasant it is to escape the winter ! You perhaps already feel its approach, while we are leaving it behind us. At Voronez, and still more at Tcherkask, the season is yet delightful. Although the route from Petersburgh to Mos cow is scattered with large and rich villages, where you find neat and spacious dwellings, supplied with every thing a traveller can desire ; this beautiful and smiling aspect is changed a little beyond Moscow, and alters yet more, as you get nearer Voronez. Then the villages be come rarer; the cottages are mere thatched cabins, with a stove but no chimney, and un inhabitable for those who cannot endure the smoke. Travelling with a family, you must lay in your stock of provision at Voronez, which is rather a large and good-looking town, upon the border of the steppes: but it is only by degrees, that these plains wear the appearance of de serts ; which do not begin, until you pass the small town of Kasanskaja, the nearest residence of the Don Cossacks.

People commonly entertain a false idea of the steppes; especially those that occur in the pro vinces of Orel, Koursk, Voronez, &c. This region, far from being barren, is one of the most THE STEPPES. fertile in Russia, and one of its best granaries. If indeed the steppes of the Caucasus be un productive, it is only for want of cultivation and of hands to till the soil. Once at Kasanskaja, you must carry all your provisions, and satisfy yourself of the good con dition of your carriages ; for here you embark as it were upon a sea, which in some respects these steppes resemble. With the exception of two Cossack villages, called stanitzi, and the little post-house at each stage, you see nothing before you but the sky, and a boundless plain for many hundred versts. This is the country of the Don Cossacks, whose principal town is New Tcher kask ; as was formerly Old Tcherkask, which lies at thirty versts from the new town.

One must 'have made a sea voyage or have travelled in these steppes, to be aware of the sensation caused by such an unvaried scene, where you do not perceive the smallest bush : thus, a singular delight is experienced by the weary traveller at sight of a tree, of a house, or even of a bird. It is very possible that you see none of these for days together, particularly if so unfortunate as to lose your way in the desert ; and this may occur during the great whirlwinds, which in these regions are tremendous, especially in autumn and winter. At those seasons THE STEPPES. drifting snow fills the roads, overturns carriages and takes away your very breath. These steppes are capable of the highest cultivation ; but they are barren on account of the total absence of wood and water, which consti tutes the distinctive character of the plains.

The inhabitants are supine and slothful ; as are all the natives of warm and fruitful countries. The dolcefar niente* of the Italian is the greatest charm of their existence. If plantations were made with care, wells dug, and a due regard paid to the economy of the woods, bordering the banks of the Don and the Kuban, a great part of these solitudes might, in a few years, be converted into a well peopled, cheerful, champaign country. What a conquest would this be, and how noble a title to fame ! It is computed that there are more than four million acrest capable of culture, within the government of Caucasus alone: fancy but hands to do the work — then, with industry, they might make a kingdom of it. While slowly traversing these dreary regions, my imagination pictured to itself, through the distance of ages and the vicissitude of nations, this brilliant change : I cast my view back to * Sweet indolence. f These are arpcns, or French acres.

See Appendix, No. 1 . CALMUCKS. our own time, and shuddered lest Germany, that I have beheld so flourishing, should experience the fate of these immense tracts, where silence is rarely broken by the tread of the traveller. The horses, however, and the cattle, which form the chief wealth of the Cossacks, find here an abundant pasturage. Hordes of wandering Calmucks also rove throughout these solitudes, transporting their kibitki from place to place : these vehicles are a sort of tents, formed with felt and skins, which shut up ; so that when within, you are sheltered from rain or wind and even from the cold : they are open all round at the bottom, and have an aperture at top to let out the smoke. While at meals, young and old crowd around the fire ; and the carelessness of these poor creatures is such, that one seldom sees a child amongst them without a burn.

Nothing can be more disgusting than their food : horse carrion is to them a delicacy ; dogs, cats, and crows, even in a putrid state, are not rejected ; and in their misery they think them selves happy to meet with such provision. Their drink is curdled milk mixed with water, which they call airan. Whoever should have the curiosity to be present at their repast, might see little children gnawing the tainted limb of CALMUCKS GIPSIES. a horse, and greedily snatching it away from each other. The possessions of a Calmuck consist in his kibitka more or less habitable, according to his condition, some horses and kine, a couple of camels and of buffalos : by the number of these animals his fortune is estimated. This shepherd race do not care to work; for they change their residence, as soon as the grass where they have halted be consumed.

In the world, there is not a people more inclined to thieve and drink, when they can find an opportunity. These habits produce strange gentlemen and ladies, as you may perceive; but what, my dear friend, can we expect from the natives of a desert? Trans form this wilderness into cultivated fields, and you would have a population of human beings in the place of these savages. The Gipsies, with whom the line of Caucasus abounds, lead nearly the same sort of life. It would seem, as if the uncertain vagabond existence of the Calmucks tended to destroy, or at least to weaken, the most natural feelings. The mothers have really not the same care for their children, that other animals take of their young. Their games, their dances and their music are not less wild than their manners. — But let us turn our eyes from COSSACKS. this picture, that we may view a more interest ing people, the Cossacks of the Don.

As I am a woman, and one of a peaceful dis position, you must excuse me, my friend, for touching only upon the military character of the Cossacks, that I may dwell the more on their domestic qualities. They are happy when in the bosom of their families, yet rarely partake of such good fortune. The mothers and wives are chiefly to be pitied : seldom has the young Cos sack reached his sixteenth or eighteenth year, or may be just newly married, when he is re moved to his regiment ; and frequently does not see his wife again, until after twenty-five years absence ; oftener still he never beholds her more. I have heard a widow, while mingling a hopeful smile with tears of sorrow, exclaim to her child at his departure : " Go, my son, join your com rades; and may you one day return worthy of your father, or may you die like him."

Such language recals to mind that of the women of Sparta. The interior of the Cossack house is a model of cleanliness and economy. In this respect, they are the Dutch of Russia, and have more over the commercial inclinations of that people. Those, who by especial favor are exempt from military service, devote themselves to trade, and COSSACKS. pursue it with industry and success. The Cos sacks are hospitable; but, it is not without hesi tation, they receive those that are not of their own religion. Upon such occasions, they break the glass, the plate and other utensils used by a guest, and hasten to purify the room he has occupied. The stanitzi of the Don Cossacks, which are generally of considerable extent and have a pleasing appearance, do not lie along the high road, but mostly upon the banks of the Don and Kuban.

The Cossack families live for the most part in ease: some among them are very rich; the father or the son having, after one or more campaigns, returned home loaded with booty. I have been present at a Cossack wedding. Both before and after the ceremony, which dif fers little from our own, the bride, accompanied by her friends and relations, walks through the streets, chaunting in chorus alternate songs with a plaintive and a merry strain. It is an emblem of union for life; an interweaving of pain and pleasure. In this country, where a coach seldom passes, the horses, besides being small and weak, are ill adapted for harness : hence arise the principal difficulties, of which some travellers complain. But the goodness and zeal of the Cossacks TRAVELLING IN THE STEPPES. make up, in great measure, for the weakness and untractable nature of these animals, and for whatever their country does not supply.

Each station usually consists of a small house, composed of two apartments; one for travellers and the other for the drivers : — there is also a clerk of the post, and a house-steward, as he is called unsuitably enough. The former of these has charge of the horses, the latter of the fuel and of whatever the barren region may afford the traveller; who, in spite of all the good will of the officious steward, is poorly off, unless he have brought provision along with him. Form then for yourself, my friend, an idea of what I, while dangerously ill, must have suffered in such a dismal country. The steppes being wholly destitute of wood ; straw, hay, or kisik (dung dried in the sun) are the materials, with which they contrive to warm the travellers' room. The steward is commonly an old soldier, who has a pension upon account of wounds or bad health ; but remains in em ploy at these stations, to complete his twenty five years, the term of service fixed for every Gossack.

You will readily conceive that, with such a host, it is impossible to escape the wonderful recital of his whole military life. Should you have omitted a close inspection NEW TCHEliKASK. 16 of your carriages, while at Kasanskaja, before entering upon these steppes, no resource is at hand, in case any accident occur. However, so far as it rests with the Cossacks, they readily assist you. Speak to them of their attaman or chief, and you secure their good offices. The present attaman* has the peculiar happiness of being greatly revered. If obliged to make a journey in this country, one should choose the fine season ; for autumn and winter are insufferable. It is necessary, in order to render the traversing of the steppes less disagreeable, to be furnished with a tent; which may at times answer the purpose of a house.