A walk in and about the city of Canterbury, etc. Few MS. notes

Front matter

G 1 rX . G O S TZ. IN G A . M ../.". EtOt. &/ A WALK IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF CANTERBURY, WITH MANY #fcgerfcattong NOT TO BE FOUND IN ANY DESCRIPTION HITHERTO PUBLISHED. BY WILLIAM GOSTLING, M. A. A NATIVE OF THE PLACE, AND MINOR CANON OF THE CATHEDRAL. A NEW EDITION WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS, AND EMBELLISHED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. CANTERBURY : PUBLISHED & SOLD BY WILLIAM BLACKLEY; SOLD ALSO IN LONDON, BY BAVNES AND SON, AND LONGMAN AND CO. PATERNOSTER ROW, AND NICHOLS AND SON, PARLIAMENT STREET, WESTMINSTER. \W. BATCHELLER, PRINTER, DOVER.] 1825. ADVERTI8EMEI>a:. The very favourable reception this work has always met with, and the fact that it has been for some time out of print, although much sought after by the public, have induced the Publisher to undertake to print an edition of it still more perfect than either of the preceding ones, by in terspersing with the history those various occur rences and improvements which have taken place since the last edition issued from the press.

This book is indeed a true characteristic of the very excellent disposition of its author, who at all periods of his life, during his residence within the precincts of the Cathedral, found the greatest satisfaction in rendering this city and its environs worthy the attention of travellers ; and however incapable some of them might be of deriving pleasure from these venerable antiquities, yet from his cheerfulness and hospitality he insured to himself universal respect and esteem. When no longer able to do the friendly office of attending upon strangers in their walks round the city, being many years before his death* confined to his chamber, he drew up this copious tour, un dertaken by him from no other motive than that of giving information to the curious and inquisitive * He died the 9th of March, 1777, in the 82nd year of his age, having been Minor Canon of Canterbury Cathedral, fifty years. traveller.

The judicious part of his readers found merit in the performance, far beyond what he had supposed himself entitled to, and the subscribers to the subsequent editions did equal honour to their liberality and good sense. The volume now offered to the public is embel lished with thirty-five copper-plate engravings, including those for the edition of 1777, except the Castle, for which a far more correct and elegant one has been substituted. Many of the plates possess peculiar interest, as they show the former state of many places and buildings, which later alterations and improvements have rendered entirely different. In the course of the work some new paragraphs are inserted in the text with brackets [ ] . This plan has been adopted to prevent the pages being crowded with long notes, which in general, and to most persons, are very objectionable.

Preface

. I give this little book a preface to ap prize my reader, that it is not merely an abstract of others written on the same subject, (though they are often mentioned in it,) but such an actual survey as the title promises, and he himself may take if he pleases ; designed not only to assist strangers in their searches after what is curious here, but to make the inhabitants sensible, that many things are so, which they may have seen over and over with out taking notice of them. In 1640, the eminently learned and laborious Mr. William Somner published the History and Antiquities of Canter bury, his native place, in quarto. This Mr. Nicholas Battely, vicar of Beaksbourn, reprinted in 1703, with some additions by Mr. Somner, designed for a second edition ; some others of his own ; and a supplement which brought it to a folio.

VI Iii 1726, Mr. Dart, of Greenwich, gave a description of our cathedral, in folio, with many curious views of the church and monuments engraved by Mr. Cole, with the epitaphs and translations of them. The plates fell into the hands of Mr. Hildyard of York, who having most of those belonging to Mr. Drake's His tory of that cathedral, published them together to the number of 117, with an abridgment of the histories for which they were engraved. Besides these, an historical description in 8vo. of our cathedral, was published about five years ago ; the compiler of which has confined his views to the church and precinct only, and filled al most half the book with epitaphs and translations: these I have omitted, not only to keep my more extensive design within compass, but for other reasons, which will appear in Chapters IX. and XXXII.

The plan is a contraction of that pub lished by William and Henry Doidge in 1752 ; corrected according to the alterations Avhich have been made since that time, and embellished with views of thc late church of St. Andrew's, the demolished conduit of Archbishop Abbot, the north prospect of St. Augustine's monastery, [and a view of St. George's steeple.] In consulting authors, as often as I found their accounts inconsistent with my observations, I have made no scruple to differ from them, whether monkish writers or modern ones, but have shown my reasons, hoping that any who shall think fit to criticise on me, will do it with candour ; and when I mention evidences on which most of my conjectures are founded, as still to be seen, either believe that I have represented them fairly, or examine them with their own eyes.

Not that I offer this as a faultless per formance ; old age and gout have been great hindrances to that. Sometimes I have not been able to hold a pen for weeks or months together; sometimes the press has been otherwise engaged, till I could hardly tell what had passed it; but my memory, I thank God, is pretty good, and some of my friends, who thought it a pity my observations should be forgotten, so soon as I am likely to be, have not only verified them by walks taken on purpose, but by adding such curious ones of their own, as I was ill capable of making in the more active part of my life. Thus far therefore my reader is a gainer by my infirmities. If any hints I give lead the curious to happier conclusions than I have been able to form ; if I point out any thing to them, which without my help they would have overlooked; if by any evidences, which I produce, I correct errors in those who have treated on this subject before me, (the most approved of whom have made some mistakes,) I should not think my labour lost.

If any little anecdotes, which I have thrown in from my own memory or that of others, are received as embellishments of a dry subject, that is the reason of my giving them : if any make a jest of them as Canterbury stories, such they certainly are, and no extraordinary capacity is required to find that out. Wits of this kind may divert them selves with my title page, and laugh at my undertaking the office of a guide and companion, if they are told I have been confined to my bed and my chair for some years past, and they are heartily welcome to be as arch on me as they please. To think of the pleasure I have formerly enjoyed in that character gives me pleasure still ; and (to borrow a hint from one of our best poets) — " My limbs, tho' they are lame, I find " Have put no fetters on my mind."

That, God be praised, is still at liberty, and rejoices at the thought of a little ramble. A good natured reader will in dulge this fancy inan old man. On such a one I gladly wait to the utmost of my ability : let us then set out upon our ima ginary walk without delay, and I hope it will prove an entertaining one,* * In 1801, " A Journey from London to the Isle of Wight," in two quarto volumes, with plates, was published from observations made by the celebrated antiquary, Thomas Pennant, esq. He travelled by the way of Dover ; in his account of Canterbury he says, " It is with pleasure I men tion the helps I have received in my account of this city from the Walk round Canterbury, published by the good old man [Mr. Gostling] in his 81st year. I cannot but admire his ease of mind that could be collected enough for such a labour at so very advanced a period."

Vol. i, p. 164, TABLE OF THE PLATES. PLATE. PAGE. 1 Head of Mr. Gostling to face the Title 2 Plan of Canterbury (Introduction) 1 3 Riding Gate 6 4 Westgate and Holy Cross Church 12 5 * Westgate without, with intended improvements . . 13 G Arches in the Town Wall 14 7 *The Castle and ancient Worthgate 22 8 * St. Martin's Church 32 9 * Seal of the convent — St. Augustine's 41 10 *St. Augtistine's 45 11 * High Altar Piece of ditto 46 12 *St. George's Gate 53 13 *New Corn and Hop exchange 56 14 * Philosophical Institution and Museum 05 15 All Saints Church 67 1.6 Christ Church Gate, Canterbury 83 17 South Prospect of the Cathedral 91 18 * Second Seal — of the Priory of Christ Church . . 93 19 Capitals in Grymbald's, &c. &c 98 20 Vaults allotted to the first Prebendary 153 21 Deanery 163 22 The King's School 177 23 Green Court Gate 193 24 The Inside of the Baptistry 203 25 Baptistry 204 26 The Font 222 27 The Screen and North Window of the Dean's Chapel 229 28 The East Window of the Dean's Chapel 230 29 Screen 243 30 Becket's Crown and Tomb 272 31 * Dean Wotton 's Monument 279 32 Patriarchal Chair 287 33 • Old Corn Market 354 34 Chart of East Kent 355 35 Map of Sandwich 35g N. B. — The plates marked with * have appeared in no former Edition of this work.

SUBSCRIBERS. Mr. William Adley, Ramsgate Mr. Benjamin Adnam, Buckingham, Bucks. L. Allan, Esq. Rochester Messrs. T. and J. Allman, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London. Two copies Mr. Thomas Andrews, Canterbury Messrs. S. and A. Arch, Cornhill, London. Large paper R. G. Ayerst, Esq. Bath. Large paper B George Baker, Esq. Canterbury Mr. William Baines, Canterbury W. H. Baldwin, Esq. R. T. Bargrave, Esq. Canterbury. Large paper Admiral Sir Robert Barlow, K. C. B. Canterbury Rev. William Barlow, Canterbury I. J. Barnes, Esq. London. Large paper Thomas Barrett, Esq. Lee Priory, Ickham Mr. James Batt, Ightham Mr. William Batcheller, Library, Dover. Two copies Mr. James Bate, Sittingbourne Messrs. W. Baynes and Son, London. Two copies George Beckett, Esq. Faversham Mr. James Beer, Canterbury Mr. T. M. Beer, Canterbury Mr. William Beer, Canterbury a2 Mr. William Best, Canterbury Mr. S. Bettison, Library, Margate Mr. W. G. Bettison, Library, Margate Rev. Dr. Birt, Canterbury John Blake, Esq. Canterbury Mr. John Blackley, jun.

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Large paper Mr. Edward Southee, Canterbury. Six copies Mr. Edward Stacey, Canterbury Thomas Starr, Esq. Canterbury W. Stringer, Esq. New Romney T G. M. Taswell, Esq. Canterbury Mr. Thomas Taylor, Canterbury Mr. J. Thornton, Surgeon, Canterbury Henry Tiddeman, Esq. Canterbury J. Tillard, Esq. Street End, near Canterbury Mr. Charles Townson, Chatham Mr. John Tucker, Ramsgate Mr. J. T. Tyson, Canterbury V Rev. W. Vallance, Milton, near Sittingbourne W Mr. N. Waite, Canterbury Mr. H. Ward, Canterbury Mr. John Warren, Canterbury Mr. Z. Warren, Library, Faversham J. T. Watts, Esq. 1 Mecklenberg Street, Mecklonberg Square, London. Large paper Colonel Webb, Harbledown Rev. W. Welfitt, D. D. Canterbury Miss Whitaker, Reigate Miss C. Whitaker, Reigate G. Whitaker, Esq. Pembury Mr. White, Canterbury Mr. John White, Canterbury E. B. Wilbraham, Esq. M. P. Lathom House, Lancashire Mr. D. Wildish, Canterbury Mr. Thomas Williams, Library, Dover Mr. George Witherden, Library, Margate.

Two Copies Willes, Esq. Littlebourne Mr. Wiltshire, Harbledown Mr. George Wood, Canterbury. Six Copies Rev. John Woodcock, Canterbury Mr. Joseph Wrightson, Canterbury MEASUREMENT OF CHRISTCHURCH, CANTERBURY FEET. Length from east to west, within side, about 514 Length of the choir 130 Breadth of ditto before the new wainscottmg 40 As contracted by that, from door to door 38 Length of the body to the steps 178 From the first step to that at the choir door 36 Breadth of the body and its side aisles 71 Height of ditto to the vaulted roof 80 Lower cross aisle from north to south 124 Upper ditto 154 Height of the Oxford steeple 130 Height of the Arundel steeple 100 Height of the spire which stood on that « 100 Height of the great tower called Bell-Harry steeple . 235 Height of ditto within to the vaulting 130 Area of ditto about 35 by 35 Vaulting of the choir from the pavement 71 Of the chapel behind the altar 58 The square ofthe cloisters 134 by CONTENTS.

CHAP. PAGE. Introduction 1 I. Of the Situation, Antiquity, and Names of Canterbury 4 II. Of the City Walls and Gates 6 III. Of the Castle 22 IV. Of the Suburbs 28 V. Of St. Martins Church 32 VI. Suburbs continued 34 VII. Of St. Augustine's Monastery 41 VIII. Of St. Georges Gate and the City 53 IX. Digression 85 X. The Description resumed 91 XI. Conjectural History of the Cathedral at Canterbury, from the earliest Accounts of it, to the Fire in 1174 106 XII. Notes on the Conjectural History Ill XIII. Of the Fire 1174 124 XIV. Description resumed 132 XV. Of the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, sometimes called that of St. Thomas Becket . . 136 XVI. Of the Precincts of the Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace CHAP. PAGE. XVII. Of the Arundel Steeple 147 XVIII. Of the inside of the Precinct 149 XIX.

Of the fine Vaults allotted to the first Prebendary 155 XX.' Precinct continued 160 XXI. Of the Deanery and Green Court. . . . 163 XXII. Of the Strangers' House and Hall, Domus Hospitum 166 XXIII. Of the Almonry or Mint Yard 172 XXIV. Digression 174 XXV. Of the King's School 177 XXVI. Benefactions to the King's School .... 184 XXVII. Description of the Precinct continued.. 192 XXVIII. Of the Dortors 198 XXIX. Of this Way to the Church and to the Cloisters 203 XXX. Of the Cloisters 207 XXXI. Of the Chapter or Sermon House .... 211 XXXII. Of the inside of the Church 219 XXXIII. Of the French Church 233 XXXIV. Of the rest of the Undercroft 236 XXXV. Of the Great Tower called Bell Harry Steeple 248 XXXVI. Continuation of our Walk among the Monuments 251 XXXVII. Of the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, and Becket's Crown 268 XXXVIII.

Of the Monuments in the eastern part of the Church 274 XXXIX. Of the Shrine of St. Thomas Becket and his Jubilee 282 XL. Of the Patriarchal Chair and the place it stands in 287 XLI. Of the North-side Aisle and the rooms adjoining CHAP. PAGE. XLII. Of the Pall and Pastoral Staff 298 XLIII. The North-side Aisle continued 302 XLIV. Of the Choir 305 XLV. The Altar 309 XLVI. Of the Windows 316 XLVII. Concluding Summary 346

Appendix

. The Tour of East Kent, with a Map of the same. . . . 355 ERRATA. Page 5, line 20, for " Caer-Chent" read Caer Kent. Page 49, first line of the Note, for " 1824 " read 1822. REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF CANTERBURY. Precinct of the Archbishop's Palace bounded by a strong black line. A The great gate. B The great hall, now a garden. C The porch, now a dwelling-house. U The old French church, afterwards a Methodist Meeting-house, and now used as a Carpenter's shop. Precinct of the cathedral bounded by +- D Deanery. I - II III IV V Prcbcndal houses, according vij r to tne number of their VIII respective stalls. IX X XI X1IJ E Bowling green. F The cloister. G Sermon house. H Library. I Plumberry, once the old grammar school. K Cathedral church yard. L Cemetery-gate. M Oaks. N Green-court. O Green-court-gate.

P Christ-Church-gate. Q Strangers' house and hall, afterwards two preachers' houses, and the auditor's, used for the late register -office. R Water-house. S Stable yard. fa School & house. T Mint-yard. < b Under -master's (_ house. U Mint-yard-gate, c Old Mint. * Preachers' houses. -|- Minor-canons' houses. Precinct of St. Augustine's monastery bounded by a strong black line. V Great gate and fore court. W Cemetery gate. X St. Pancras's chapel. Y Ethelbert's tower, CITY AND SUBURBS. I Riding gate. 2 Dungil-hill. 3 Wincheap-gap. 4 Castle. 5 Postern. 6 Breaches in the wall. 7 Westgate and Bridge. 8 Postern. 9 Breach where three arches in the wall were demolished in 1769, and new bridge over the Stour.

St. Mildred's church and yard. 49 Maynard's hospital. 50 Work-house. 51 Particular Baptists' meeting-house. 52* General Baptists' ditto. 53 Quakers' meeting house. 54 St. Mary Magdalen's, or Burgate church. 55 St. Mary Bredin's, or Little Lady Dungil. 56 Dancing-school yard. 57 Presbyterian meeting-house. 58 Rodau's town. 59 Place of Dungil, or Dane John manor-house. 60 Abbots mill. 61 Cattle-market. 62 Borough of Staple-gate. 63 Jews' Synagogue. 64 Jews' Synagogue. 65 Cock mill*. 66 Doge's chantry. 67 Theatre. 68 Lady Wotton's green. 69 Black Friars. 70 Grey Friars. 71 Smith's alms-houses. 72 King's Arms Printing-Office. 73 Miss Bridger's alms-houses. 74 Kent and Canterbury hospital. 75 Public Walks in Dungil field. 76 New Wesleyan Methodist chapel. 77 New county goal and sessions house. 78 Philosophical Institution and Museum. 79 East Kent and Canterbury Economic Fire Office. 80 Residence of R. Halford, esq. 10 North-gate and church. 11 North-gate burying ground. 12 Postern. 13 Burgate*. 14 St. George's gate*. 15 Harris's almshouses. 16 City boundary. 17 St. Paul's church. 18 St. Paul's burying ground. 19 St. Martin's church and yard. 20 St. Thomas's chapel. 21 Jesus (or Boy's) hospital. 22 St. John's hospital. 23 St. Radegund'sbath. 24 St. Dunstan's church and yard. 25 National Schools. 26 St. George's church and yard. 27 White friars-gate. 28 New corn and hop exchange, with shambles, and fruit and vegetable market. 29 Old Corn Market. 30 Church of St. Andrew. 31 Assembly-rooms. 32 St. Mary Bredman's, or Little Lady High-street church. 33 The old chequer inn. 34 Town-hall. 35 All Saints church and yard. 36 East Bridge and hospital. 37 East or King's Bridge & Mill*. 38 Cogan's hospital. 39 St. Peter's church and yard. 40 Canterbury wells. 41 Holy Cross church and yard. 42 St. Alphage church and yard. 43 Butter market. 44 Fish market. 45 St Margaret's church and yard. 46 Chapel church yard. 47 Worthgate*, and the late county sessions house. * These are now demolished A WA LK IN AND ABOUT CANTERBURY, &>c.