Down the Great River; embracing an account of the discovery of the true source of the Mississippi, etc

Front matter

«» POPULAR WORKS «» or siApTAiM Willard glazier The Soldier-Author. I. Soldiers of the Saddle. II. Capture, Prison-Fen and Escape. III. Battles for the Union. IV. Heroes of Three Wars. V. Peculiarities of American Cities. VI. Down the Great River. VII. Ocean to Ocean on Horseback. Captain Glazier's works are growing more and more popular everyday. Their delineations of tuxitl, military att, I frtmtifr lite, constantly varying scenes, Rnd deeply interesting stories, combine to place their writer in the front rank of American authors. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. PERSONS DESIRING AGENCIES FOR ANY OF CAPTAIN OLAzier's BOOKS SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS. DOWN THE GREAT RIVER; EMBRACING AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ffli|ue ofj tlie Mississippi, TOGETHER WITH VIEWS, DESCRIPTIVE AND PICTOIUAL, OP THE CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES AND SCENERY ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER, AS BEEN DURING A CANOE VOYAGE OF OVER THREE THOUSAND MILES FROM ITS HEAD WATERS TO THE GULF OF MEXICO.

By CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, itchor of "flfflflai of the Saddle," "Capture, PrUon-Pen and EfAt-Je," "Battle* tor ihm 1'h.I-ub," "Uero.s of Tliree Wars," " Pe«-ull__rities of American CUies/* *■* Ocean to Occam oh llonebaek," etc gfUustuttfrt. PHILADELPHIA: HUBBARD BROTHERS, Publishers, 723 Chestnut Street. 1887. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S87, by WILLARD GLAZIER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. ®o Hon. Charles P. Daly, LL. D., PRESIDENT CF 1H3 ÆnenccLii Qeoguaphical society; As a. Tributb op Respect For His Eminent Public Services; And His Liphlong Devotion to the Cause op GEOGRAPHICAL SCIENCE; Œljis boiumc IS DEDICATED BY Thk Author. Introduction. (fxfSHf V P HE discovery of the Mississippi is very jÆv|Srrk^ generally ascribed to Ferdinand De Soto, MjS^\(£ w'10> '" '1's adventurous march in pur %@&ff<*-_ su't °f g°'c^ an(^ g'ory> readied the Great Upfyissy River in April, 1541, near tlie site of the £ys present city of Natchez.

Worn out with *Q fatigue and humiliated by his many disappointments, he died on j&s banks, and found his final resting-place in its depths. Discovery in the Valley of the Mississippi rested for nearly a hundred years after the death of De Soto, when the zealous Jesuit missionary, Father James Mar quette, accompanied by Sieur Joliet, proceeded from Michilimackinac to the head waters of Fox River, then by portages into the Wisconsin, and descended that stream to its confluence with the Mississippi in 1673. Thoroughly exploring the Mississippi as far as the mouth of the Arkansas, Marquette began his return voyage to Canada, but after enduring many privations and hardships among the Indians fell a prey to ma laria contracted on the Lower Mississippi, died and was buried on the western shore of Lake Michigan.

Introduction

. VIII 1679 ascended the Niagara River and, traversing Lakes Erie, Saint Clair and Huron, reached Michil imackinac the latter part of August. From this point lie proceeded in a southerly direction to Lake Michi gan and erected on its banks a fort iu the territory of the Miamis. In 1680, we find him at Fort Fron tenac, on Lake Ontario, and in the autumn of 1681, he descended the Mississippi from the mouth of the Illinois River on his way to the Gulf of Mexico, reaching it April seventh, 1682. Soon afterward he returned to France by way of Quebec. La Salle left France on his second expedition in July, 1684, reached the Gulf of Mexico in the following February, founded a settlement on the Bay of Saint Louis, and during his voyage to Canada was assassinated by his own men. The command of the expedition and the account of his explorations devolved upon his lieutenant, the Chevalier Tonti.

When La Salle led his first expedition to the Mis sissippi, Father Louis Hennepin, who had accompanied him from France, was sent northward with three voyageurs to explore its head waters. After ascending the Mississippi one hundred and fifty leagues above the junction of the Illinois, they were taken prisoners by the Indians and carried into captivity towards the the source of the river in ,t journey of nineteen days. Being set at liberty they descended the stream and returned to Canada. Hennepin subsequently pub lished an account of his explorations and advent ures which tended to throw considerable light upon the Indian tribes he had encountered, and the regions he had traversed. Iu 1683, Baron La Ho.itan, an unfrocked monk

INTRODUCTION.

. IX and subsequently an officer of the French army, arrived at Quebec. During the four years of his military service in Canada, he was stationed for a time at Michilimackinac, where, in 1688, he first heard of the death of La Salle. Being commissioned to con tinue the work of exploration begun by Marquette, La Salle and Hennepin, he proceeded to Green Bay and passed through the Fox and Wisconsin rivers to tlie Mississippi in 1689. The highly colored stories of his observations and adventures related by this explorer rival the tales of Munchausen, and lead the reader to question the credibility of his published accounts. For a period of one hundred and fourteen years succeeding the explorations of La Hontan, the Great River was seldom visited by white men. Charlevoix, who had been commissioned as the historian of New France, landed at Quebec in 1721 and, passing through the lakes, descended the Illinois and Mississippi to New Orleans.

Captain Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, who had served several years in the provincial army, gave some attention to the Upper Mississippi in 1766. By his courage and invincible daring among the Indians he acquired a powerful influence over them; was elected by the Sioux to the chieftainship ofa tribe, and given a vast tract of land, which, however, the British government declined to ratify. The fate of Carver cannot but elicit our warmest sympathies. His gallant services as a soldier and his zealous work in the field of exploration should have insured for him from his king a respectable competency ; but, on the contrary, he was suffered to feel the annoy ances of poverty, and died of want in the city of

INTRODUCTION.

. X London, where, for a long time previous to his death, he endured greater privations than had fallen to his lut in tlie American wilderness. From 1769 to 1793 several enterprising travelers carried forward the work of exploration in the New World. During these years Samuel Hearne made a journey from Hudson's Bay to the Coppermine River, and McKenzie performed a voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing, however, was done in the direction of the Mississippi after the return of Carver, until 1805, when Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike, a brave and accomplished young officer of our regular army, was ordered by General Wilkinson, then in com mand of the Department of Louisiana, to proceed to the head waters of the river and continue the exploration. Pike started from Bellefontaine, Missouri, with a force of twenty men, in August, 1805.

Knowing com paratively little of the climate of the region he was about to visit, having no interpreter or guides, he labored under many disadvantages. Winter overtook him when he had reached a point only one hundred and twenty miles north of Saint Anthony Falls. Here he built a block-house and, leaving a detachment of his men in charge of a sergeant, pushed forward with snow-shoes and sledges as far as Cass Lake, then known to the agents of the North-west British Fur Company as Upper Red Cedar Lake. It appears from the narrative of Lieutenant Pike's expedition that he derived his information of the topography of the country chiefly from representatives of the North-west Fur Company, on whom he seems to have relied largely for assistance in the de lineation of maps. These fur-traders led him to a

INTRODUCTION.

. XI wrong impression concerning the source of the Missis sippi, which he located in Turtle Lake. Having, as he supposed, accomplished the object of his mission, Pike returned to Bellefontaine, and subsequently published an account of his expedition and its results. General Lewis Cass, of Michigan, an eminent soldier and statesman, organized an expedition at De troit and led it up the Detroit River and through the lakes to the Mississippi in the spring and summer of 1820. Like his predecessor, Lieutenant Pike, General Cass reached the Mississippi too late in the season to penetrate to its ultimate source. His ex ploration rested in the lake wliich now bears his name and which had been previously visited by Pike. Having ou his staff several gentlemen of scientific attainments, the Cass expedition was distinguished by its attention to the peculiar characteristics of the In dian tribes and the botany, mineralogy, and meteor ology of the regions traversed.

Passing over the expedition of Beltrami and his supposed discovery in 1823, we find that early in the spring of 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who had accompanied General Cass in 1820, was commissioned by the Gov ernment to proceed to the Upper Mississippi, make cer tain treaties with the Indians and carry forward the work of exploration, if possible, to its fountain-head. Fully equipped, and with an officer of tlie regular army to com mand his escort, Schoolcraft arrived at Cass Lake on the tenth of July. Pushing forward with small canoes he reached Lake Itasca three days later. Evidently satisfied that he had found the object of his search, and having an appointment to meet Indians in council at the mouth of Crow Wing River, Schoolcraft neglected

INTRODUCTION.

. XII to coast Itasca for its feeders, and thus missed the goal he had so industriously sought. Jean Nicolas NicoIIet, who succeeded Schoolcraft in Mississippi exploration, was a native of France, and came to America iu 1832. His first visit to the head waters of the Mississippi was entirely unofficial and made in the interests of science. Plaving attracted the attention of our Government, he was sent at the head of an expedition to the same region in 1836. This eminent explorer appears, from his maps and the narrative of his expedition, to have overlooked the main stream entering the south-western arm of Lake Itasca, and to have accepted conclusively the statements of those who had preceded him. Satisfied that the work of exploration at the head waters of the Mississippi had been completed by Schoolcraft and Nicollet, nothing further was at tempted in this quarter, with the exception ofa partial survey, from 1836 to 1881, an interval of forty five years, when in the latter year the question of the fountain-head of the Great River was again revived, and a hitherto unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca -was located by the author of this volume as the primal reservoir — the True Source of the Father of Waters. WILLARD GLAZIER. November 24, 1886., ' _t$ Contents.

Chapter I. The Old Explorers

De Soto, Marquette, La Salle and Hennepin. — Pike, BeUrami, Schoolcraft and Nicollet. — Lake Itasca. — Other Lakes. — A Field for Exploration. — The Author Proceeds to Saint Paul. — Prepares for an Expedition to the Head Waters of the Mississippi. : — Journey to Brainerd. — Topography of the Country. — Extra Supplies. — Leech Lake. — Kabekanka River 29

Chapter II. Through The Chippewa Country

En Route to the Head Waters of the Great River. — Impenetrable Underbrush. — A Rough Road. — Half-way Houses. — Gull Lake. — Wandering Indians. — Hole-in-the-day. — Little Crow. — John Monahan. — Aboriginal Conflicts. — Reuben Gray. — Dinner at Gull Lake. — Ride to Pine River. — Huge Logs and Boulders. — George Barclay. — Characteristics of Indians. — Fourteen Mile Lake. — First Meal in Open Air. — Exuberant Spirits. — Gauging tlie Rations. — Duck-shooting. — Birch-bark Canoes Capsized. — Resolved on more Caution. — Journey Continued 32

Chapter III. Home Of The Chippewas

Arrival at Leech Lake. — Log-cabin Hotel. — Fresh Fish and Flap-jacks. — Canadian Fur-traders. — Indian Agency. — Major Ruffe. — Paul Beaulieu. — White Cloud. — Pioneer History. — Sioux and Chippewas. — Domestic Habits of Indians. — Secure an Interpreter and Guides. — Birch-bark Cnnoes. — Flat-mouth. — Chenowagesic. — Dinner with Flat Mouth. — Rev. Edwin Benedict. — Theory of Paul Beaulieu as to the Source of the Mississippi. — Diversity of Opinion 38 CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Exploration And Discovery

A Council. — Chenowagesic Draws a Map. — Canoes. — Distribution of Luggage. — Embark on Leech Lake.— Making a Portage. — Kabekanka River. — Trolling for Fish. — Encampment. — Clouds of Mosquitoes. — Strike Tents. — Launch Canoes. — Lake Garfield. — Packing Traps. — Indians Carry Canoes. — More Mosquitoes. — Gabekanazeba River. — Astir at Dawn. — Naming Lakes. — Blue Berries.— "Wolf and Deer. — Shooting Ducks. — DeSoto River.— Short Rations. — Ammunition Lost. — Rigid Economy. — Portage. — Height of Land. — Flocks of Pigeons. — Wild Strawberries. — Lake Itasca. — Schoolcraft Island 49

Chapter V. True Source Of The Mississippi

Exhausting Portages. — Empty Haversacks. — Coasting Itasca for its Feeders. — A Talk with Chenowagesic. — Infant Mississippi. — A Beautiful Lake. — Source of the Great River. — Description ot' Primal Reservoir. — Three Feeders. — Lake Alice. — A Geographical Error Corrected. — A Surprise. — Pokegama. — Chenowagesic Speaks.— Latitude and Altitude of Source. — Length of the Mississippi. — Mean Descent 68

Chapter VI. Down The Great River

First Day. — " Now for the Gulf of Mexico ! " — Return to Itasca. — A Bald Eagle. — Short Rations. — Outlet of Itasca. — Obstructions. — Narrow Gorges. — Savannas. — Wild Rice. — Camp Discovery. — Marquette River. — Gnawingsof Hunger. — Mosquitoes. Second Day. — Exploring for Breakfast. — Descending the Stream. — The Discovery. — The Alice. — The Itasca. — Shoot an Otter. — Two Ducks Shot and Two Captured. — A Light Breakfast. — Drift and Boulders. — All Hands Clear the Way. — Hunger and Fatigue. — The Otter Roasted for Supper. — Small and Poor. — Advanced only Fifteen Miles. — Camp Otter 77

Chapter VII. Perils And Privations

Third Day. — Blue Berries. — Chain of Rapids. — Kakabikous Falls. — A Capsize and a Loss. — Joliet River. — Hunger, Gaunt and Stern. — Four Ducks Shot. — Disembark and Pitch Tents. — Camp Hunger. — CONTENTS. XV Ducks Reserved for Breakfast. Fourth Day.— Paddles Resumed. —An Old Duck.— La Salle River.— A Deer.— A Wasted Shot.—Ex hausted.—Halt for Rest.— Two Ducks and a Mud-Turtle.— Wild Rice. — Savannas. — Pinidiwin River. — Wild Geese out of Range.— Camp Starvation 86

Chapter VIII. Bemidji To Winnibegoshish

Fifth Day. — Struck Tents at Sunrise. — Two Ducks and a Muskrat. — All Hands Very Weak. — Meet a Canoe. — Fish and Sugar. — Lake Marquette. — Lake Bemidji. — Camp Relief. — Trading-post Abandoned. — Empty Larder Again. Sixth Day. — Re-embark. — Two Small Ducks. — Cass Lake. — A Few Dried Fish. — Camp Chippewa. — Foraging. — Corn and Potatoes. — Aboriginal Generosity. — We Help Ourselves. — Description of Cass Lake. — Lieutenant Pike. — Governor Cass. Seventh Day. — Cabin of Missionary. — Up at Daybreak. — Roasting Potatoes. — Meet Some Indians. — Dried Venison. — Lake Winnibegoshish. — Strong Wind. — Nearly Swamped. — Strike the Beach. — Kitchinodin. — Cordial Reception. — Wind-bound. — Indian Character. — A Good Dinner for All Hands. — Kitchinodin Asks a Blessing. — A Walk Through the Village. — Description of Lake Winnibegoshish 95

Chapter IX. Habits And Traditions Of The Chippewas

Eighth Day. — Home of Kitchinodin. — Religion of the Chippewas. — The Great Spirit.— The Evil Spirit.— Invoking the Deity.— Polygamy. — Education. — Luck. — Fasting. — Females Degraded. — Origin of the Chippewas. — A Future State. — False Traditions. — Inter-marriages. — Courtship. — Power of Husband over Wife. — Funerals. — Invocations to Deceased. — Grief. — Parting with Chenowagesic. — Happy Hunting-grounds 105

Chapter X. Lake Winnibegoshish To Grand Rapids

Ninth Day. — Re-embark. — Driven Ashore by High Wind. — Camp Chenowagesic. — Tents Pitched. — Retire for the Night. — Disturbed at Midnight. — Villanous-looking Indians. Eleventh Day. — Slow progress. — Leech Lake River. — White Oak Point.— Camp Kitchinodin. — Chippewa Village. — Curiosity of Indians. — Chief Dull-Knife. — Ugly Women. — Nude Men. — Description of a Wigwam. — Indians Friendly. Twelfth Day.— Meet Three Canoes. CONTENTS. XVI —Halt for Dinner. — Mosquitoes. — Pokegama Falls. — A Portage.*— Arrive at Grand Rapids. — The Potter House .... 122

CHAPTER XL GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN.

Thirteenth Day.— Supply of Food. — Leave Grand Rapids. — Farewells. — Make Good Progress. — Camp Portage. Fourteenth Day. — Camp Thunder. — Change of Scenery. — Halt for Dinner. — Swan River. — Steamer City of Aitkin. — A Salute. — Land for the Night. — Heavy Thunder-storm. Fifteenth Day. — Camp Mosquito. — Re-embark. — Meet Indians. — White Man with Indian Wife. — Fine Country. — Former Battle-grounds. Sixteenth Day. Douglass House, Aitkin. — Return to Civilization. — Mud River. — A Capsize. — " The Commodore." — Interpreter Leaves for Leech Lake. — Aitkin. — Population and Industry 130

Chapter XII. Ten Days At Aitkin

Reorganization — Lecture Appointments. Profitable Employment. — Carlos Douglass. — Eambles Around Aitkin. — Productive Soil. — Numerous Lakes. — Modern Canoes. — Rushton Canoe. — A. H. Seigfried. — A Veteran Canoeist. — Eushton's " No. 93." — Description of "No. 93." — "American Travelling Canoe." .—Letter from A. II. Seigfried. — H. L. Hinckley. — Valuable Suggestions. — Racine St. Paul Canoe. — Rob Roy Canoe. — Description of Racine St. Paul — Letter from Mr. Hinckley. — Advice and Instructions Relating to Canoes. — Good Wishes . . . 136

Chapter XIII. Aitkin To Brainerd

Twenty-sixth Day. — Pine Knoll. — Below Aitkin. — "Weighed Anchor." — " Snags and Sawyers."— Broad Savannas. — Pine Tim, ber. — A Pleasing Landscape. — Abundance of Water-fowl. — A Wil. derness. — John Polly and Family. — Hospitality. — Thunder-storm, Twenty-seventh Day. — Camp Discomfort.— Launched Canoes. —All Hands in Good Spirits. — The Sioux Portage. — Another Cap. size. — Approaching Storm. — Stores Damaged. — Lightning ami Thunder. — Tents no Protection. — Story-telling to Pass the Night. Twenty-eighth Day*. — Start for Brainerd. — Halt for Dinner.—, Re-embark. — Arrive at Brainerd. — Greetings. — Warren Leland.— Arthur E. Chase. — Dr. Rosser. — Lecture.— Chauncy B. Sleeper.^ George Barclay. — The Stolen Trunk. — Thieves Arrested. — Held so- Trial. — Description of Braiuerd 14t CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XIV. Brainerd To Monticello

TWENTY-NINTH Day. — Re-embark. — Land at Crow Wing. — Charles Bailey. — Hunting Exploits. — Description of Crow Wing. Thirtieth Day'. — Little Falls. — A Surprise. — Judge Story.— A. J. Pierson. — Vassaly House. — Lecture. Thirty-first Day. — Receive Calls. — Moses Lafond.— Nathan Richardson. — Valuable Intormation. — Shooting the Falls. — The Alice. — Pike Rapids. — Mrs. Mc- Neil. — Western Hospitality. — Western Women.— Women Farmers. Thirty-second Day. — Saint Cloud. — River Widening.— Sauk Rapids. — Nearly Swamped. — Captain West. — Lecture. — Judge L. A. Evans. — Description of Saint Cloud. — Jane Grey Swisshelm. Thirty-third Day. — Monticello. — Reach Monticello.— Cordial "Welcome. — Lecture.— Henry Kreis. — Samuel E. Adams. — Henry Glazier 134

Chapter XV. Monticello To Minneapolis

Thirty-fourth Day. — Leave Monticello. — Interest Manifested.— River-drivers. — Wongans. — Booms and Jams. — Village of Elk River. Thirty-fifth Day. — Friedley. — Strong Wind.— Blown Ashore at Anoka.— Dinner.— Reach Friedley. Thirty-sixth Day. — Jams and Log-booms. — Reach Minneapolis. — "The Nicollet." — Saint Anthony Falls. — Grand Spectacle. — " Sound of Many Waters." — Father Hennepin. — Height of Falls. — Breadth of Falls. — Legend of the Falls. — Ampato's Fate. — Saint Anthony. — Suspension Bridge. — University. — Water-power. — Huge Rafts. — Lumber Business. — Flour-mills. — Summer Resorts. — Falls of Minnehaha. — Boating, Bathing aud Fishing. — Germans and Scandinavians. — Metropolis of North-west 1C3

Chapter XVI. Ten Days At Saint Paul

Fort Snelling. — Lieutenant Pike. — Major Long. — Colonel Leavenworth. — Colonel Snelling. — Minnesota River. — Jonathan Carver. — Geology and Mineralogy. — Minnesota Boat Club. — " Tbe Island." ■ — Deliver a Lecture. — Father Hennepin. — Treaty with Sioux. — Pierre Perent. — First Building in Saint Paul. — Catholic Mission. — Bridges. — Capitol. — Opera House. — Academy of Sciences. — Historical Society. — Schools. — Asylums. — Stores and . Warehouses. — Retail Trade. — Wharfage. — Railroads. — Points of Interest. — Carver's Cave. — Fountain Cave. — White Bear Lake. — Bald Eagle Lake. — City Park. — Progress of Civilization .... ls>3 CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. Saint Paul To La Crosse

Forty-sixth Day. — Leave Saint Paul. — Drenching Rain. — The Gem City.— Hastings. — Lecture Postponed. — Foster House. Forty-seventh Day.— Leave Hastings. — Saint Croix River. — Red Wing. — Swiss Missionaries. — Dakota Indians. — William Freeborn. — Manufactures and Resources. Forty-eighth Day. — "Beware of Lake Pepin."— Frontenac.— General Garrard. — Legends of Lake Pepin.— Maiden Rock.— Lake City. Forty- NINTH Day. — Minneiska. — Violent Wind-storm. — Chippewa River. Fiftieth Day. — Reach Winona. — Co rtesies. — Lecture. — Business Activity. — Railways. — Churches. — S hools. — Public Library. — Newspapers. — Manufactures. — Lumber Trade. Fiftyfirst Day. — Leave Winona. — Ugly Clou(" .. — Violent Wind. —Canoes Filled with AVater.— Sudden Cal.u. — Disembark at Trempealeau. — Melchior House ....... 197

Chapter XVIII. Three Days At La Crossi

Trip from Trempealeau.— La Crosse and Surroundings. — Delightful Day.— Beautiful Scenery.— Arrive at La Crosse. — Pearce Giles. — Name of City. — Distance from Saint Paul. — Black and La Crosse Rivers. — Growth of La Crosse. — Myrick's Indiac Trading-post. — Present Population. — Products and Resources. — Pi tatoes aud Flax. — Port of Entry. — Lumber. — Base of Supply. — Electric Lights. — Churches. — Schools. — Newspapers. — Public Library. — Rapid Improvement 220

Chapter XIX. La Crosse To Dubuque

Fifty-fifth Day. — Victory, Wisconsin. — Heavy Thunder-storm. — Driven Ashore. Fifty-sixth Day-. — Prairie du Chien. — Difficult Landing. — Marquette and Joliet. — Jesuit Mission. — Kickapoo Indians. — The Mound-Builders. — Gautier de Vorville. — Brisbois. — Captain Fisher. — Saint John's College. — Saint Mary's Institute. — Fort Crawford. Fifty-seventh Day. — Guttenberg, Iowa. — Thoroughly Soaked. — The City and its Surroundings. Fiftyeighth Day. — Dubuque, Iowa. — September Rains. — Land for Dinner. — Refused Accommodations. — Beautiful Scenery. — Excel- CONTENTS. XIX lent Pasturage. — Winnebago Indians. — March of Civilization.* — A " Pocket." — Reach Dubuque. — Julian Dubuque. — Lead Mines. — Treaty with Indians. — Immigrants. — The Civil War. — Volunteers. — Trade and Manufactures. — Lumber. — First School. — The Lead District. — Geographical Position of Dubuque .... 226

Chapter XX. Dubuque To Davenport

Fifty'-ninth Day\ — Start for Davenport. — Change of Scenery. — Excellent Progress. — Reach Bellevue. — Bower House. — N. O. Ames. — Hon. W. O. Evans. — Captain Warren. — B. W. Seaward. — Bellevue and the Bandits. — Delightful Summer Resort. — A Promising Town. Sixtieth Day.— Clinton, Iowa. — Wapsipinicon Boat Club. — Hospitality. — Revere House. — Description of Clinton. —Death of Garfield. Sixty-first Day. — Comanche. — Meeting an Army Comrade. — Cordova. — Le Claire Rapids. — Moline. — Lowell of the West. — Manufacturing Centre. — Water-power. — "City of Mills." — Rock River. — Deere & Company. — Educational and Religious Matters. — Sylvan Water. — Rowing Association. 244

Chapter XXI. Four Days At Davenport

Rock Island Arsenal — City of Rock Island. Site of Davenport. — The Ulini. — Winfield Scott. — George Davenport. — Antoine Le Claire. — James Mac'i'ntos'1- — The Ferry. — Sidewalks. — Court House. — Educational Advantages. — Churches. ■ — Public Library. — Academy of Sciences. — Mercy Hospital. — Home for the Friendless. — Growth of Davenport. — Rock Island Arsenal. — General Rodman. — Colonel D. W. Flagler. — Early Settlers. — Cause of Black Hawk War. — Governor Reynolds. — General Gaines. — The "Prophet." — Treaty of Peace. — Colonel Atkinson. — Zaohary Taylor. — Jefferson Davis. — General Whiteside. — Abraham Lincoln. — Hard Fig-hting. — End of War. — Sacs and Foxes. — Late Civil War. — "Military Prison. — Description of the Island, — Capacity of Arsenal. — Ornithology. — Rock River. — Hennepin Canal. — Rock Island City. — Description. — Commerce and Manufactures. — Black Hawk's Watch-tower . . . 252

Chapter XXII. Davenport To Burlington

S'.xty-sixth Day. — An Early Start. — Reach Muscatine. — De- CONTENTS XX scription. — Railways. — Lumber. — Agricultural Produce. — Churches.— Schools.— Population. Sixty-seventh Day. — Stop ata Farm House. — Funeral of Presidtnt Garfield. — Iowa Grangers. — John Warren Walton. — Iowa River. — Home of Black Hawk. — Indian Relics. Sixty-eighth Day. — Keithsburg. — Reach Burlington. — Barrett House. — Flint-mills. — Description of Bur lington.—First Settler.— Samuel S. White.— Doolittle.— John Grey.— Name of City.— Dr. Samuel S. Ross.— Judge D. Rorer. — Zion Church. — Opera House. — First Wedding. — Population.— Public Library. — Churches. — Schools. — Colleges.— Boat Club. — Private Residences. — Prospect Hill. — Black Hawk Amphi theatre. — The Levee. — Manufactures and Commerce. — Iron Bridge. — Steam-ferry. — Burlington College. — Burlington Hawkeye . 272

Chapter XXIII. Burlington To Quincy

SlXTY-NINTH Day. — Leave Burlington. — Adventure on a Sand-bar. — Rich Farms. — Nauvoo. — Joseph Smith. — Collisions with Gentiles. — Polygamy. — Book of Mormon. — Compelled to Flee. — Description of Temple. — Military Corps. — Spiritual Wives.— Arrest of Joseph and Hiram Smith. — Hiram Shot Dead. — Joseph Wounded and Killed. — Brigham Young. — Rigdon. — Armed Mobs. — A "Special Revelation." — Flight. — Temple Destroyed. — Icarians.— M. Cabet. Seventieth Day. — Reach Keokuk. — A Tradition. — Dr. Samuel C. Miner.— American Fur Company. — Moses Stillwell. — Joshua Palean. — Indian Wives. — Dr. Isaac Galland. — Jesse Crayton. — " Medicine Ground."— Government Canal. — Water-power. — Manufacturing Centre. — National Cemetery. — Government Hospital. — Public Library. — Churches. — Schools. — Artesian Well. — Steamboats. — Fair-grounds. — Railroads. — College of Physicians. — Beautiful Locality. — Handsome Buildings.

Seventy-first Day. — Gregory, Missouri. — Leave Keokuk.— Des Moines River. — Gregory. Seventy-second Day.— Quincy, Illinois. — Meet Several Steamers. — The Gem City. — Description of Quincy. — Railroad Bridge. — Parks. — Fair-ground. — Elegant Residences. — Manufactures. — Churches. — Hospitals and Asylums. — Medical College. — Schools. — Public Library. — Population 283

Chapter XXIV. Quincy To Saint Louis

L«aVB Quincy.— Reach Htjtrpibal. — Description of Hannibal. CONTENTS. XXI — Growth and Prosperity. — Lumber. — Manufactures. — Coal and Limestone. — Schools.— Han jibal College. — Population. Sev enty-sixth Day.— Cincinnati Illinois.— Naming Villages.— Narrow Limits. — Unattractive Surroundings. Seventy-seventh Day. — Cap Au Gris, Missouri.— Dense Fog. — Leave Cincinnati.— Clarksville. — Hamburg.— Falmouth.— Great Only in Name. — An Unenviable Position. — Midnight Apparition. — The Gem, City Again. — Landed. — Suspicion Aroused. — " River Tramps." — Another Ef fort. — Re embark. — Reach Cap Au Gris. — "Leading Hotel." — River Invading the Town. Seventy-eighth Day. — Alton, Illi nois. — Leave Cap Au Gris. — Illinois River. — La Salle. — Derivation of "Illinois." — Revolutionary War. — Kaskaskia. — Alton. — De scription. — Population. — Piasa Creek. — Bluffs. — Caves. — Railroads. — Manufactures. — Lime aud Buildiug Stone . . 302

Chapter XXV. Three Days At Saint Louis

Trip from Alton — In aud Around Saint Louis. Missouri River. — Majesty of the Mississippi. — The Yellowstone. — The Great Falls. — Tributaries. — Marquette and Joliet. — Saint Genevieve. — Civil War. — Governor Juckson. — General Fremont. — Martial Law. — Confederates. — Laclede. — A Trading-post. — Old Market Square. — Liguest. — Name of Saint Louis. — Under Spanish Rule. — Attack of Indians. — Inhabitants Chiefly French. — Old Saint Louis. — First Ferry. — First Baptist Church. — First Methodist. — First Episcopal. — Governor La Motte. — Population. — Pilot Knob. — Great Bridge. — Captain Eads. — Carondelet. — Missouri Gttzrtte, — Joseph Charles. — Missouri Republican. — Post-Dispatch. — Globe- Democrat. — The Times. — German, French and Spanish Papers. — Deaf and Dumb Asylum. — Convent of Good Shepherd. — Shaw's Garden. — Agricultural and Mecuanical Association. — Fair Week. — Forest Park. — Northern Park. — Lafayette Park. — Court House. — Chamber of Commerce. — Custom House. — Jewish Temple. — The Levee ... 312

Chapter XXVI. Saint Louis To Cairo

Eighty-first Day. — Once More Afloat. — Lunch in the Canoe. - Crystal City. Eighty-second Day. — River Obstructions.— Varieties of River Craft.— Saint Genevieve.— Chester. Eighty-third CONTENTS. Day.— Grand Tower.— An ex-Union Soldier. EIGHTY-FOURTH Day-. — Cape Girardeau. — A Circus and a County Fair.— Blown Ashore. Eighty-fifth Day.— An Early Start. — Junction of the Ohio and Mississippi. — Cairo. — History of the City. — Description by Charles Dickens. — Cairo in War Times. — The Cairo of To-day.— The Future of Cairo 330

Chapter XXVII. Cairo To Memphis

Eighty-sixth Day. — Off Again.— Belmont.—" Shanty-Boats." — Hypocritical Boatmen. — Hickman. Eighty-seventh Day. — Point Pleasant.— Chickasaw Bluffs. — Mound-Builders. — Fort Donelson. — " Island No. 10."— Reelfoot Bayou. Eighty-eighth Day. — A Hearty Send-off. — "Tow-heads." — Numbering the Islands. — Annual Overflows. — A Settler's Life. Eighty-ninth Day. — Arkansas. — Fort Pillow. — Negro Cabins. — Crops of Cotton. Ninetieth Day. — A Sixty-three Miles' Run. — Harrison's Landing. — Royal Courtesies. Ninety-first Day. — Arrival at Memphis. — History of the City. — Commerce. — Institutions. — Ravages of Yellow Fever 345

Chapter XXVIII

, MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. Ninety-second Day.— Lodging with Negroes.— Robert Green. — Ben. Montgomery. Ninety-third Day. — Helena. — Arnot Harris. — W. L. Morris. Ninety-fourth Day. — Rough Experiences. — Friar's Point. — A Floating Photograph Gallery. — At Modoc. Ninety-fifth Day-. — The Vicksburg. Ninety-sixth Day. — Levees. — The White and Arkansas Rivers. Ninety-seventh Day. — Fortunate Escape. — A Quick Run. Ninety-eighth Day. — Monotonous Scenery. — Greenville. Ninety-ninth Day. — Lively Greeting at Ashton. One Hundredth Day. — Ashore at Ingomar. — Negroes' Saturday Night. One Hundred and First Day. — Nearing Vicksburg. — Its War Experieuces. — The Great Canal. — Terrific Fighting. — The Surrender . . . 357