Travels over the table lands and cordilleras of Mexico, during the years 1843 and 44; including a description of California ... and the biographies of Iturbide and Santa Anna ... With maps and plates

Front matter

im©iisM:RDMi(ifi. mwm% ms, &m^& mm& EX PRE510ENT DF MEXICO TRAVELS OTEB THE TABLE LANDS AND CORDILLERAS or MEXICO. DURING THE YEARS 1843 AND 44; INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA, THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND MINING DISTRICTS OF THAT REPUBLIC, AND THE BIOGRAPHIES OF ITURBIDE AND SANTA ANNA. BY ALBERT M. GILLIAM, LATE D. S. CONSUL TO CALIFORNIA. WITH MAPS AND PLATES. PHILADELPHIA: JOHN W. MOORE, 138 CHESTNUT STREET. LONDON: WILEY & PUTNAM. 1 846. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1845, BY ALBERT M. GILLIAM, in Ihe Clerk's Office of the District Court, of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. DEDICATION. To General Waddt Thompson, Late Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from the government of the United States, to the Republic of Mexico. Esteemed Sir, — In publishing the Journal of my Travels in Mexico, I have been •unable to think of any olher than yourself to whom I would inscribe this volume.

I have done so, not for the reason of your well known fame at home and abroad, but from a desire to offer some memorial of the polite at tention and official aid you rendered me while in Mexico. In thus dedicating my book, I wish to do honour to myself, by connect ing my labour to a name, honoured for its learning, talent, steadiness and patriotism, rather than to attempt to commemorate your good qualities ; and however unworthy it may be deemed by those who peruse it, the work is to depend upon its own merits, and not upon the writer. It is a delicate, and no grateful task to write upon the manners and customs ofa nation so dissimilar to our own ; and to delineate character impartially, and describe whatever was to be eeen, ignorant of the lan guage and customs of the people among whom we have so recently so journed, demanding my most assiduous attention and observation, requir ing often my distrust, and judgment deferred, until confirmed by investi gation and the opinions of intelligent persons, long resident in the country.

DEDICATION. Mexico has for the last twenty-five years given to the world, names conspicuous for deeds of chivalry ; and amid the disadvantages of re peated revolutions, the individual would be wilfully blind, who is not struck, when beholding those ill-fated people, with the fire of their genius, the rapidity of their conceptions, and their love of liberty and independence — worthy of a better fate, but ever destined to be smothered in their embers, by the benighting hand-of superstition, and the ambition of demagogues. May God speed their delivery from these forebodings. Whatever Mexico has gained since our residence in that country, from the change of power in the deposing of her former dictator, time must develope the results to its people, — and in conclusion, esteemed sir, permit me to say, in thus dedicating to you my book, that I am, Sir, With great respect, Your obedient servant, Albert M. Gilliam.

Preface

In compliance with the general custom of writing a preface, it is my desire to say, that I should not publish my Travels in Mexico, but for the flattering solicitations of some friends. My journey in that interesting country, was of long con tinuance. Individuals in Mexico informed me that it was unknown, that persons in a private capacity had ever accomplished so great a distance of internal travel at any one period ; and not unfrequently it happened, that in parting with acquaintances, many apprehensions and doubts would be expressed of the success of my enterprise. Although much has been written upon detached portions of Mexico, as seen by other travellers, yet I have written with a hope, that a journey of about four thousand miles, in a country that has for nearly four hundred years engaged the attention of the world, will not be read without exciting some interest.

PREFACE.

. VI The ignorance of the geography of Mexico, has resulted from the fact, that no scientific individual has ever traversed its extended territories, which would enable him to locate rivers and cities, or to describe mountains, valleys and lakes, — it is from the want of this knowledge that a map has never been taken of Mexico; and the only one bearing the name that can be relied on is that of Baron Humboldt, which was in the main sketched from the imagination. I have taken care to draw as accurate a map of my travels, as my time and observation permitted. It is to be regretted, that whilst other countries have in dustriously had their geographical, geological and minera logical surveys, Mexico has remained inert, and satisfied with the gloom and ignorance in which the first revolution found her — the philosophic stores of her dominions are locked up from the world, and only probed here and there by foreign research.

Since my return to the United States, my time has been so much occupied that I have not been enabled to devote due attention and study to the composition and arran o-ement of my manuscript, but since it has gone forth, I can only regret, that haste has compelled me to publish its imperfections with whatever good qualities it may possess. I sear that my knowledge of the Spanish will be sentenced by the clas-

PREFACE.

. VII sic eye — yet in apology, I hope I may be excused; and permit me to say, that I have given it in the most grammati cal manner that my limited opportunity of learning it would allow. My feelings of gratitude will not permit me to conclude without expressing my thanks to my friends of Virginia. Their generosity I have often had reason to acknowledge. The Executive to whom I was introduced, distinguished in a nation's confidence and patronage, I shall always cherish. I am happy in congratulating my fellow citizens on their prosperity; on their possession of a land unequalled in its resources ; and above all, as they are the only people truly enjoying constitutional liberty and freedom of conscience, where the laurels of victory unrestrained by power, and uncorrupted by gold, deck the brow of the triumphant in the great contention of the field of principle. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

My Journal. The plain and unsophisticated narration of facts is of interest to the reader. Incidents as happening the more beautifully and naturally are illustrative of cause and effect. Commission by President Tyler, as Consul of the Port of San Francisco, Upper California, in the Republic of Mexico. Embarked Oct. 15, 1843. Three casualties in three months. First day's travel in the Natural Bridge Stage. Arrived, the 18th instant, at Guyandotte, on the Ohio. Voyage down tbe river, having a view of several States ofthe Union. Arrived at Cincinnati, on tlie 23d inst. Yellow Fever in New Orleans. Determined to spend one M'eek in Cincinnati. Entertained by hearing the Rev. Nicholas Cobbs, D. D., preach. On the 29th inst, frost at New Orleans. My departure from Cincinnati. Steamer James Madison.

On the lst November, beheld the magnificent meeting of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. On the night of the 7th inst, arrived in sight of New Orleans. Splendid view of the city. ..... 17—21

Chapter II

Visited Collector of the Port. His kind attention. Engaged passage on the schooner Amazon for VeraCruz. Reception by the Mate. Destined to lodge in the Ladies' Cabin. Confusion ofthe Mate by the Captain's arrival. His hospitality. Towed by the Arkansas. Detained by a fog. The tow drifted. The Steamer by a backward revolution came stern upon the broadside ofthe Amazon. Much damage sustained. Capt. Harding in a passion. We sail for Balize. The Captain leaves tbe Amazon and returns with a Pilot. "We again set sail. Meeting of the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. Cast anchor at the mouth of the Pass. Departure of the Pilot, and his rescue from drowning. Out of sight of land. The Captain's indisposition. A storm at sea. A man lost. View ofthe Perote mountains. A calm. Catching Fish. The Orizava.

By telescope viewed the port of Vera Cruz. Boarded by a Pilot. Anchored uoder the walls of San Juan de Ulloa. Disembarked from the Amazon forthe Mole. Novel sights. First night in Vera Cruz. Description of Vera Cruz. Health of Vera Cruz. Northers. - - 22—40

Chapter III

Dined with Mr. Dimond. Description of ruins. Isla de los Sacrificios. War-god Huitzilopotchili. The Mexicans believe that the period had arrived for the return of their deity. Cannibal priests. Arrival of Cortes. Montezeuma's embassy. Vespus. Marina. Arrest of four Americans and two Dutchmen. Spanish treasure. Consent of Santa Anna to search for money. Arrest of Capt. Place. Four days in Vera Cruz. Departure from Vera Cruz. The Ladrones. Description of them. Duplicity of the Mexicans. Santa Anna's wooden leg. ------- 41—55

Chapter IV

At 11 o'clock the diligencia in waiting. Two Mexicans on the back seat. Refusal to give it up for a lady. Departure from Vera Cruz. Escort. Sand flies. Drifted sand. Large beetle, Cocuyos. Vera Cruz road, the same that Cortes travelled. Tierra ealiente. Varieties of flowers and shrubbery. Sultry heat. Halt of the diligencia at the Rancho. The escort takes leave. The road paved like a street upward of three hundred miles. President, Emperor and Dictator. Numerous bridges. La Puenta del Ray. Breakfast. Romantic and sublime scenery. Santa Anna's new building. First day's ride. Wild scenery. Tierra templada. Stately forest. Varieties of musquite tree. Orizava is not a part of the Perote mountains. Grand view of the Orizava. The B CONTENTS. X country volcanic Lara. Jalapa. Wealth of the Dictator.

The medicine Jalapa. The Plaza. The ladies of Jalapa. Departure from Jalapa. Humid vapours. Houses of seeds, sticks and earth. The aborigines. Tomb of an old Spaniard. Picturesque scenery. The plain of Perote. Andes and Cordilleras. Pastoral country. Pueblos built of sun-burnt brick. Roman Catholic house of worship. The haciendas. Ploughs in Mex ico. Two perpetually snow-capped peaks. Arrival at Pueblo. Priests imposing on the people. Cathedral of Pueblo. The mountains covered with large timber. Arrieros. Mules loaded with silver. Valley of Mexico. The promised land. Geography of the valley of Mexico. A grand scene. Sterility of soil. Lake region. Hot springs. Vol canic eruptions. The causeway. Environs of Mexico. Lofty steeples. Arrived at the city of Mexico on the 26th Nov. Custom-house. Gran Sociedad and Holy Ghost street. 56—78

Chapter V

The Overthrow of Cortes. City of Mexico. Receding of the Lake. View of Holy Ghost street. A large Church. A Mexican Lady. Gen. Thompson's residence. An elegant part of the town. The streets of Mexico. Earthquakes. Style of Architecture, The city of Mexico. The proportion of a Spanish house. The population of the city of Mexico. Gen. Thompson's hospitality. Baron La Rook. The Plaza. The Palace. The Cathedral. Remarkable Carriages. Basalt Stone. Interior of the Cathedral. Mister Officer an American artist. Virgin of Remedios. Tomb of Iturbide. Rarefied air. The Convent of San Francisco. The Government Palace, Mint, &c. A general officer at the reception door. Capt. Cortes, of the Grenadiers. National Monument. Iturbide's Palace. Santa Anna Theatre. Numerous Beggars. Journeymen Beggars. Feats of strength. Dress ofthe Lazarones. ------- 79—93

Chapter VI

Visit to the National Museum and University. Bronze statue. Sacrificial stone. Curiosities of savage antiquity. Gallery of paintings. Library room. Museum proper. Paintings. Portrait and armour of Cortes. Helmet of Alvarado. Giant of Jalapa. A miniature representation of two silver mines. Indian relics. Conchology. Mastodon. Santa Anna's portrait. Former grandeur of the City of Mexico. Montezeuma's Menagerie and Aviary. Floating gardens. Visit to Conde Peniaske's private museum. Philosophic apparatus. Paintings. Chinese transparencies. Carved picture. Bomb shell. Maquey book. Crystallization. Beautiful lady. Feast day of Guadaloupe. Ringing of bells and firing of rockets and cannon. Going to mass. Flags. Picture of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. Procession. Joseph, the Infant, the Virgin ftfary.

The multitude embracing the Infant. Origin of the Virgin Guadaloupe. Pueblo of Guadaloupe. Village of mounds. Multitude of people at Guadaloupe. Commercial booths. Dealers of Monte. Gambling priests. Roman Catholics of the United States, Europe, and Mexico. Habits ofthe priests. Wealth of tlie Church of Mexico. - 94—111

Chapter VII

Return to the City of Mexico. The Theatre. Four Theatres and one Plaza de los Torros. Audience at the Nuave de Teatro. The ladies. The Plaza de los Torros. Audience. Drawing of a Lottery and Bull-fight. Cemetery of Santa Paula. English have the right of burial. The Cemetery. The Chapel. Garden. Flowers. Vegetables. The Portal Way. Orange and Lemon trees. Rows of boxes. Coffins shoved into niches. Gilt Frames. Ornamental Works. Lamps. Mound of human bones. The grave-diggers. Monument to Santa Anna's leg. Return from Santa Paula. The youth John Hill. The College of Mines. Arrangement of the rooms of the College. The Cabinet of Minerals. Models of Machinery. The Observatory. The Observatory proper. Baron Humboldt. Splendid View. Chapel. Politeness of John Hill. Gaming room. Gambling. Influence of Money. Public opinion. Whitewashing the houses. Feats of daring of the Mexicans. -------- 112—127

Chapter VIII

Ramble in the Alemade. Circles, fountains and statues. Names of Hidalgo and Iturbide. The carriages, walks and crowds of ladies with their fans. The Pasio. Fountains of water. Stalues of the Azetic gods. Carriages passing up and down. The Cavaliers. The management and trappings of the horses. A walk without the walls of the city. Beautiful country scenes. Christmas-day in Mexico. Grand mass celebrated at the CONTENTS. XI cathedral. Crowds of people in the Plaza. Merchandise ofthe hucksters. Confused scene. Brokers. Night. Pine torches. Intoxication by drinking pulque. Narrow escape. The cathedral crowded. Grand mass. Raising of the Holy Ghost. Splendid view of the richness of the cathedral. Reflections. The services of the cathedral last alt night. Mexican ladies. Premature debility. Paris fashions.

The social habits of the ladies. Courtship by letters. Gentlemen in disguise. Ostentation at the theatre and pasio. An English lady. Rebozoes. Los ire. Festivities of Christmas-day. The dictator, pro tem., and suite. Yankee driver. The big show. Plaza de los Tor ros. Human affairs. News ofa British fleet. Mr. Doil, the British charge de affaires. Suspended relations of the two powers. False alarm. British jack on the plaza. 128—141 CH A PTER I X. Indisposition of some of the Deputies. A failure of a quorum. The Deputies installed. Speech of Canalizo. Reply of Ximenes. Celebration of the installation. How things are done in Mexico. Worship ofthe Golden Sun. Firing of cannon. Splendid illumination of the Cathedral and Plaza. Installation of the President elect. Canalizo, the proxy of Santa Anna.

Celebration of the installation of the President. The worship of the Christian, a happy exchange for the native. Grand parade of all the military. My stay in the city of Mexico. If the will of the people was known. Mr. Green gave me notice not to leave the eity. Copy of the secret order. Determined to take the advice of Gen. Thompson. Gen. Thompson's negotiation. My opinion. Mexican persecution. Two Americans imprisoned at Guymas. "Who are the Mexicans ? Union of the European and Indian blood. Comparative difference cf the Christian and Savage worship. Mild disposition of the Mexican. Love of country. The Mexicans are a motley race. Solemnity and sadness of countenance. Mexican, politeness. Confidence in no one who cannot blush. -_..--__.. 142—159

Chapter X

Climate of the Valley of Mexico. The climate ofthe Republic of Mexico. Plains without water. Artificial dams. Monopoly of Agriculture. Interference of the law. Landed estates of Mexico. Table of population. Wealth of the inhabitants. Majority of the people in poverty. Different castes. Want of confidence. Previous to the revolution. The golden age. Embezzlement of Canalizo. Products of the Mines. Solvency of Mexico. Forced loans. Anecdote. The people of Mexico easy to govern. A correct idea of the ministry of Mexico. Capt. Coin. Deformity in Church as in State. My intentions. The Bishop bribed. Matrimony. ------ 160—169

Chapter XI

Gratitude to T. Ducoine. Left the city of Mexico the 8th January. A Mexican passenger. Attempted conversation. Chocolate. Arrangements. My first day's journey. Extensive plain. Mountain scenery. Volcanic eruptions. Valleys divested of forest* The soil generally shallow. The rocks. Haciendas. Stone walls. Orgono hedges. Fitlds without enclosure. The manure of a hacienda. Splendid scenery. No improved roads north. Natural ways. Mijico. Dined at Cula/ Description of Dinner. Chili. My first night's lodging. When day dawned. Table land. Arroyo Zarco. The mother of the driver. Fast driving. Cross-bar broke. Ladrones. San Juan del Rio. Conversation and smoking of two Mexicans. View of Guerctero. Aqueduct. A priest and the revolution. A walk at night. Plaza lights. Lost. Guitar. Moonlight. Starting of the diligencia.

Ladrones. Escape. Ceiaye. Monument. Mexicans dregsed as Indians. The Pope and the Catholic religion. Three Spaniards of old Spain. Language. Politeness. Landlord. Cotton goods. Third day's travel. Guanajuato. Darkness of the night. Dinner. Night's ramble in the street. Visit to Mexican ladies. Conversation and entertainment. Departure from Guanajuato. Mines of Guanajuato. Magnificent present. Detection of fraud in the Mint. Level country. Siloa. Leon. Arrival at Lagos. Lake region. Loss of sleep. Settlements with my Mexican friend. Waked up alone. Chocolate. Letter of introduction. My difficulty. Fruitless efforts to be understood. Fortunate arrival ofa Mexican. Attention ofthe inhabitants. Doct. Tesus Anaya. Interpreter. A large party of travellers. A party of Americans. Appearance of the travellers.

Tyler's message to Congress. Manner of warfare upon Mexico. No want of water at Lagos. Vegetables and fruits. Bathing. Walk. Paintings CONTENTS. XII of the houses. American negro. Practice of medicine in Mexico. Angel Gabriel. Simon's wounds. Tbe evening ofthe second day. Arrival of the diligencia. An Ame rican passenger. Proposed journey. ------- 170—195 C H APTER XII . Departure from Lagos. Chocolate, cups, knives and forks. An American for my companion. The new plain called La Villita. The polite Frenchman. The plain of La Villita. Having arrived at La Villita. In towns in Mexico. Public houses called Mesons. Furniture. Spanish Caritalia. My misfortune. Hire a bed for the night. Fondi. Cook-shop. The rent of the room. La Villita. Departure. Roads, bridges and ways. Wheeled Vehicles. Ancient customs.

The hacienda Pennueles. The extensive fields. An artificial lake. Arguas Calientas, Palace ofthe Conde Guadaloupe. We were foreign padres. Extravagant charges. Italian Opera company. The city of Arguas Calientas. Churches, priests, and soldiers. The case of the white Jack and the people. Decision of the Judge. American wagons. Pleasing sight. The difference between Mexican and American wagons. The Moors who invaded Spain. Our day's journey. Dust, wind. The skin. Display of badges. Our ride for the most ofthe day. Corn-field. At San Jacinto. The Indians. The body-guard. Garrisons Of disciplined regulars. Conjectures ofthe people. Volunteers of the Army. Her Britannic Majesty conquering Mexico. Servants sleeping on the hard, cold pavement. The American servants. Remarks to the Secretary of American Legation.

Hot sun. South-west winds. Dishonest and barbarous habits. The more polished circles. Swindlers, thieves and murderers. John Randolph. Gentlemen of character above suspicion. 396 — 214 C H APTE R XIII. Del Refugio. Flock of sheep. The hacienda Paras. Ascending the Plain. The Mexicans in the fields. Vein of silver on the surface. Abundance of silver ore. Laws of Mexico on Mining. The principal vein of silver. The appearance of the range of Mountains. A large Convent. High wall. Don Garceav's granary. Battle-ground. General Andrade Santa Anna. Colonel Harcourt's defeat of the Zacateeans. Santa Anna flushed with pride. Conquest of the United States and Texas. Napoleon of America. First view of Zacatecas. The streets. Meson. The American my interpreter. An Irish gentlemen. Many public buildings.

La Parroquia Convento de Maestro Senora del Petrocenis. The Saint. Location of the resident Saint. Subject of divinity. Government Palace. Spanish Marquis. Child christened. The Mint of Zacatecas. Mr. John Scott. Mexican horse. Hacienda de Beneficio Santa Clement. Cultivated gardens. Waterfrom the Mines. Bags of hides. Ropes of hide. Shafts of the Mines. The ore yards. Labourers. Captains. Specimens of silver ore. Native silver. Reflections. The eminence of Santa Clement. Mountain and Valley Scenery. Machine for pulverizing ore. One thousand bushels of ore. Washing the ore. Examinations of tbe labourers. Thefts. The blackleg. ------_. 215—233

CHAPTER XIV.

Zacatecas. Cargo animals and cartera. Much disappointment. The hotel. Meson de la Calle de Tacuba. Confined atmosphere. Fire-places and stoves. Ice-creams. 'Ice-makers. Objections to the meson. Poor fare. Mules. Fleas. Mexicans do not kill fleas. New home. No. 43. English and American citizens. John Bull. Minor nobles. Merit- Love of country. Americans Mexicanised. Lion and the unicorn. Society of Zacatecas. Party of Americans. Indian news. Bold resolve. Narrow streets. Buried money. Romance of buried silver. Catholic country. Tolling of bells. My servant. Region of day, Mexican mesons. Mexicans do not dine altogether. Spanish gentleman. Conversation. Mexican lands. Unmasked myself. U. S. and Mexico. California. Oppression of Americans. Justice of my conclusions. From the position of Zacatecas- Mexico a country of great extent.

Solicitude of Gen. Thompson. Pleased with theface ofthe country. Allemade of Zacatecas. Monument to Signor Don Francisco Garceraer. Dr. Jenkins. Prisoners. Public improvements in Mexico. Punishment of crime. Penitentiary system. Procession of the host. Prostration of the people. A friar and his sheep. Burial ofthe dead. Nephew of Col. Wileox. System of the Mexican government. Iron of Zacatecas. Revenue of the country. Ward the dictator. Want of fuel. U. S. and Mexican manufactures. Competition. ----_,.__ 934—152 CONTENTS. XIII

CHAPTER XV.

My interpreter. Acquainted my interpreter with the knowledge I possessed. His remonstrance. Should depart in two days. Letter of introduction to Mr. John Kimble. Letters of introduction. Departed from Zacatecas. Caratilla. Unmanageable mule. Malanoche, the (bad night mountain.) Upsetting of caratilla. My ribs injured and interpreter's collar-hone broken. Confusion. Retrograde motion. No. 43. Interpreter not able for fatigue. My resolve. Second departure from Zacatecas. Demanded my cash. Money missing. Money found. My journey. March to Frisnillo. Ride in a Spanish saddle. House of Mr. Kimble. Opinions of Mr. Kimble. Egregiously imposed upon. Recommends an interpreter. Hacienda de la Beneficio Minerale. Expenses. Crushing machine, Grinding-mill. Great square. Quicksilver. Copper bell. Silver cast in solid lumps.

Mint. Weighing of the metal. The mines of Zacatecas and Frisnil lo. Took leave of Mr. Kimble. Lost. Encounter with a Mexican. Two young men. My troubles. Coffee. Mr. K. and my interpreter. Interpreter an intelligent man. Departure from Frisnillo. Grotesque appearance. A band of robbers. Bones bleached on the plains. Uneasiness of my interpreter. Bound to Sain Alto. Become used to a Spanish saddle. Threw myself from my mule. Exchange saddle. Alcalde's cane. Administration of oaths. Sufferings increased. Eat heartily of Chili. Sain Alto. Dinner. Chocolate. Settlement of bill. Quarrel. Warm country. Maquey. Pulque. Three men upon the plain. My gloves. Table-land. A nipple ofa mountain. Narrow defile. Sombrereto. Demanded water. Mule knocked the tumbler. ... 253—270

CHAPTER XVI.

What direction I would take. Departure from Sombrereto. Under much excitement. Fatigue, hunger and thirst. Hacienda Campus de les Muleros. Small red wolves. Sheep. Great house. Refused admittance. Hospitality of a young Mexican. His wife. Paixham balls. Diversion. Countrymen in pursuit ofa lawyer. Understanding of right and wrong. Servants feet locked under a mule. Many small streams. Unsatisfied thirst. Mexicans never wash when travelling. La Ponta. Proceed to San Casan. Arms discharged. My duty. Corpses of two men. Travel 1400 miles. River. Iron furnace. The city of Durango. De la Sauta Paula meson. Breakfast. De Cadena Casa. My walk. Two plazas. Fire arms. The Allemade of the city of Durango. The Convento of the patron Saint. Durango, a Bishopric. One of the nine mints. My servant's comparisons of coins.

A retired part of tlie Allemade. Reflections. Vale us delusion. Civil without religious liberty. Tom Paine. Thomas Jefferson. The great silence of Mexican towns. Ruin of-100 houses. Dinner. Mr. James More and an Englishman. Snap ofa pistol. Narrow escape of life. Mr. German Stalknit. His mistake. Letters of introduction. Signor Don Fernando Remizes. Hospitality. Reflection?. Dwelling of Remizes. Furniture. Libraries of the ex-Deputy. His character. Suffrages for President. Introduction. Liberality. History of tlie United States. Alicraus. Harcourt. Courtesy of the Governor of Durango. Mr. John Belden. The people of Durango. Bishop of Durango. The Bishop's character. Cotton manufacture of the Stalknits. College of Durango. Education. Change of dress. Best of arms. To Bivouac. A tent. Letters of introduction from the Governor. Remizes. Ten loads of silver. 271-291

CHAPTER XVII.

Journey commenced. Camino Real. Cacario. Dining and sleeping. Separation from the conductor. Splendid view ofthe valley Guatemepe. Animals feeding on the plain. Distance on the table-land deceiving. Despatched my guide to secure lodgings. Counter of Guatemepe. Her hospitality. Prayers and a dance. Departure for Chinacates. Indian news. Dissatisfaction with my interpreter. My guide's rebellion. Disagreeable journey. Arrival at Chinacates. Six-barrel pistols. Ridge of the mountain. Conversed with an Englishman. Mexican artizans. A New Englander. Disgraceful transaction. Santa Argo. Indians committing depredations. Reflections. Solicitude for my men. Conversation with my interpreter. San Dilla. An old Mexican account ofthe Indians. Excitement in the village. My servant Marcelino. Advice of friends.

My own deportment. Several small villages. Two mountains. Want of men at Catarine. Indians who had killed many travellers. Six mules loaded with dead men. Boca the mouth. Notice not to proceed farther. Some days delay at the Boca. Departure from the Boca. Madre Montes. Separation from company. Bivouac. Battle at night. March for Caneles. Recovered CONTENTS. XIV from injuries. Battle in the day. Death of an Indian. None of my men killed. Pursued my journey. Mountain scenery and travelling. Early history of the country. Frost. Reach Caneles. Curiosities and freaks of nature. The Madre Montes. Despatched my guide to engage Iodging3. Disappointment. Stake my tent. My interpreter complains. His suspicions. Proposition to me. My refusal. Buckled on my belt. Fell asleep. Mar eelino. The ascent of the next mountain.

Dreadful suspicion of my interpreter. Stu pendous scenes of nature. White bear. A mountain that overlooked the others. Like Balboa beheld the Pacific. Extensive sublimity. Distant view of Caneles. Two little boys. Departed brother. 292—311

CHAPTER XVIII.

My first object. An American living at Caneles. Interested with my voice. Development made by Marcelino. Mineral of Caneles. Sublime view of the scenery of Caneles. The climate of Caneles. Mountains abound with silver. Quicksilver of Caneles. Mr. John Buchan, governor of an English company. Disease of goitre. Doctor Eberle Feelings of myself. Did not repose at Caneles. Journey down the Caneles river. View of mountain scenery. All nature in Mexico at war. Mule more sapient than a horse. The town of Topie. Planting corn. Emerge from between two Cerroes. View of open space beautiful. Species of birds. Remarkable account of the love of an Indian woman. Arrived at Tamazula. President Victoria. Hospitality of the Prefect and Curate. Children of priests. Tamazula river. Uniaya river. Culiacan river.

Town of Cosala. Mazatalan. A voyage from China. Fish and oysters. Guadaloupe de Calvo. English silver mines. Mountains abound in silver. Mineral of Refugio. Return to the mineral of Caneles. Inhabitants ofthe hot and cold regions. Difference of temperature of the Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Departed from Caneles for Guanosebi. Unintelligible conversation. Met with Mr. Buchan at Guanosebi. Moon-shine in Mexico. A general, a priest, and a lawyer. Santa Anna's hacienda campus. Mexican attachment. 312—331 C H APTE R XIX. Return to Caneles. Apache Indians. Two small boys of tender years. Commence my return journey. Manage two men better than three or six. Pioneer round my camp. The Madre Mome pass. Ladrones on the way. How to know ladrones. Received at Durango. Mr. Charles E. Bowes. An individual who has been long from home.

Two new servants. Departure from Durango. My servants not good packers. Arrived at the hacienda campus de la Casa Bianca. Irrigating dam of water. Corn-field. Pastoral lands. Speculation in old horses. Purchased two pack-mules. A mule runs away. A nearer and better route. Storm, and hospitality ofa Mexican. Wet condition of my cargo. Descending to a lower region. Distress and hazard. Slept in a separate rancho. A signal given. Defeat of contemplated attack. Arrived at the mineral town of Matehanla. Discharged my servants. Wealthy Mexican. An American, Summons before the Alcalde. The law-suit determined. Second summons before the Alcalde. Presentation of my commission. Newspaper fiom the U. S. Texians. President Tyler. An old Spaniard. His daughter. Fruits aud vegetables. ----..-.._ 332—347

CHAPTER XX.

Arrieros. Departure from Matehaula. Old Spaniard and my American friend. Picture of the crucifixion. Beyond the confines of the town. Rancho inthe defiles of two mountains. Opening of the earth. My servants diligent and faithful men. Rolling and wooded country. One of my men a merry little fellow. Expertness with the lasso. Aherera a Spanish Jesuit. Arrived at the town of Tola. Fertile and hilly country. A mountain cross. A hilly and well-watered valley. Splendid scenery. A grutto, the residence of a saint. Servants dismount. A saint of Socono. The rainy season. Occasional rains. Arrived at. Tampico a Santa Anna. Custom-house officer. Meson kept hy Mons. Constant Marcuet, Meeting with Mr. John Fulton. Situation of Tampico. Houses and plazas. Santa Anna's victory. Capt. F. Chase, U. S, Consul.

Texas, question ofthe next session. Annexation of upper California. Columbia river. Rail-road to New Orleans. Napoleon. An examination of the map. Public lands. Monopoly of commerce. Different connexions. Annexation of Mexico. Southern boundary of the U. S. No limit to the north. Hudson bay and Mississippi rail-road. Home protection. Free trade. Russian possessions. 348-362 CONTENTS. XV

CHAPTER XXI.

A parting word to the Arrieros. Captain of Banditti. The American flag at the mast-head ofa schooner. Drive a bargain with the captain. Meeting at the consul's. Contract concluded. Returning home in an American vessel. British steamer. Set sait. Mouth ofthe river. Custom-house officer. The vessel searched. Officers take leave. Pilot takes us in tow. Narrowly escaped foundering. Captain no gentleman. Injuries sustained by my fellow-countrymen. Unhappy feelings. Resolve. Same way of defending myself at sea as on land. The captain alarmed. Mr. Fulton's enjoyment. Dazzling luminary of the light-house. Watched all night. Anchored off the Balize. Embarkation in a small boat. Perilous voyage. The steamers that are met at the Balize. Put to sea. Rudder lost. The southerner. Consternation. N. E. Pass. Steamer Phœnix. -- '--" 363—370