Travels in the interior of Brazil, principally through the northern provinces and the Gold and Diamond districts, 1838-41

Front matter

JUer+ZAu*. TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL, PKINCIPALLls THROUGH THE NORTHERN PROVINCES, AND THE GOLD AND DIAMOND DISTRICTS, DURING THE YEARS 1836—1841. BY GEORGE GARDNER, F.L.S., SUPERINTENDENT OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS OF CEYLON. " A populous solitude of bees aud birds, And fairy-formed and many-colour* d things, ***** the gush of BpringB, And fall of lofty fountains, and the bend Of stirring branches, and the bud which brings Thc swifteBt thought of beauty, here extend. Mingling, and made by Love, unto one mighty end." Childr Harold. LONDON : PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY REEVE, BROTHERS, KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND. 1846. BEEVE, BR0THERB, PRINTERS AND LITUOGB lrilEHS OF SCIENTIFIC WORKS, SING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND. TO SIR WILLIAM JACKSON HOOKER, K.H., D.C.L, LL.D, F.R.A, and L.S, VK'B-rurSlDEM OF THE LINNEAN SOCIETY; HONORARY MEMBER OF THE nOYAL IRISH ACADEMY; MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY CÆSAR.

LEOPOLD. NATURAL CURIOSORUM, ETC., ETC, AND Bircctav as tt)c Bajal <§ar.ttns. at Itefo, TO WHOM THE SCIENCE OF BOTANY IS SO MUCH INDEBTED, ALIKE FOE HIS LIBERAL PATRONAGE, AND THE CONTRIBUTIONS MADE TO IT IN THE NUMEROUS AND VALUABLE WORKS WHICH HAVE ISSUED FROM HIS PEN, THE FOLLOWING WORK, CONTAINING THE NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS, AVHICH, BUT FOR HIS KINDNESS AND ENCOURAGEMENT, COULD NEVER HAVE BEEN UNDERTAKEN, IS INSCRIBED, WITH FEELINGS OF PROFOUND RESPECT AND ESTEEM, BY HIS GRATEFUL FRIEND AND PUPIL, GEORGE GARDNER,

Preface

. The present volume is not given to the public, because the author supposes it presents a better account of certain parts of the immense Empire of Brazil, than is to be found in the works of other travellers, but because it contains a description of a large portion of that in teresting country, of which no account has yet been presented to the world. It has been his object to give as faithful a picture as possible of the physical aspect and natural productions of the country, together with cursory remarks on the character, habits, and condition of the different races, whether indigenous or otherwise, of which the population of those parts he visited is noAV composed. It is seldom that he has trusted to information received from others on those points ; and he hopes that this fact will be considered a sufficient reason for his not entering into desultory details more frequently than he has done. VI

PREFACE.

. Ample opportunities were offered for studying the objects he had in view, of which he never ceased to avail himself. Besides visiting many places along the coast, his journeys in the interior were numerous ; and, although he never ventured, like Waterton — Avhose vera city is not to be doubted — to ride on the bare back of an alligator, or engage in single combat with a Boa Constrictor, yet he had his full share of adventure, particularly during his last journey, Avhich extended, north to south, from near the equator to the twenty-third degree of south latitude ; and east to west, from the coast to the tributaries of the Amazon. The privations which the traveller experiences in these uninhabited, and often desert countries, can scarcely be appreciated by those who have never ventured into them, where he is exposed at times to a burning sun, at others to torrents of rain, such as are only to be Avitnessed within the tropics, separated for years from all civilized society, sleeping for months together in the open air, in all seasons, sur rounded by beasts of prey and hordes of more savage Indians, often obliged to carry a supply of water on horseback over the desert tracts, and not unfrequently passing two or three days Avithout tasting solid food, not even a monkey coming in the way to satisfy the cravings

PREFACE.

. VII of hunger. NotAvithstanding these, however, and one serious attack of illness, his enthusiasm carried him through all difficulties, and they have in some measure been repaid by the pleasure which such wanderings always afford to the lover of nature, and by the number of new species Avhich he has been enabled to add to the already long list of organized beings. The author has only further to add, that the notes from which the narrative has been drawn up, were, for the most part, Avritten during those hours, which, under other circumstances, should have been devoted to sleep ; and that the narrative itself was principally compiled from them, during a voyage from England to the Island of Ceylon. Kandy, Ceylon, January 1st, 1846. The manuscript of Mr. Gardner's ' Travels in Brazil ' having been transmitted from Ceylon, and printed during his official residence in that island, the Publishers feel desirous of expressing the great obliga tion they are under to John Miers, Esq, in the absence of the author, for his valuable assistance in correcting the technical, botanical, and Brazilicin proper names, whilst passing through the press ; they also desire to record their sense of the kind services rendered by Robert Heward, Esq, co-operating with Mr. Miers in reading the proofs. London, October 1st, 1846. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Rio De Janeiro

Page. Motives for visiting Brazil — Voyage from England — Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Description of the City — Its Environs — Geo logical Character of its Neighbourhood — Its Climate — Its Inhabitants — State of Slavery in Brazil — General good treat- ' ment of Slaves — Different Mixed Races — Excursion to the Mountains surrounding the Capital — Its Botanical Garden — Museum of Natural History 1

Chapter II. Journey To And Residence In The Organ Mountains

Principal Summer Resort of the English Residents — Journey from Piedade to Mage and Frechal — Ascent of the Mountains — Description of Virgin Forests — Mr. March's Plantation in the Serra — Treatment of his Slaves — Case of One bitten by a venomous Snake — Limb amputated by the Author — Mode of Treatment in such cases among the Natives — Charms — Tapir- Hunting in the Mountains — Beasts, Birds, and Reptiles found there — Visit to a Brazilian Fazendeiro — To Constantia — Ascent of the loftiest Peaks — Vegetable Productions in those elevated regions — Pleasant Sojoxu-n on the Estate 37

Chapter III. Bahia And Pernambuco

Departure from Rio de Janeiro — Arrival at Bahia — Description of that City — Voyage to Pernambuco — Jangadas — Description of the City and Environs of Pernambuco — The Jesuits — The X CONTENTS. Vase. Peasantry — Town of Olinda — Its Colleges and Botanic Garden — Visit to the Village of Monteiro — The German Colony of Catuca — The Island of Itamarica — Pilar — Saltworks of Jagua ripe — Prevalent Diseases in the Island — Its Fisheries — Peculiar Mode of Capture 73

Chapter IV. Alagoas And The Rio San Francisco

The Author's Motive for this Excursion — Voyage to the Southward — Description of the Coast and Observations on the great Eestinga — Reaches Barra de S. Antonio Grande — Arrives at Maceio — Description of the Town and surrounding Country — Resolves to visit the Rio San Francisco — Embarks in a Jangada and coasts to the Southward — Batel — Lands at Peba — Journey thence to Piassabassu on the Rio San Francisco — Aseends the River to Penedo — The Town Described — Productions of the District — Its Population — Voyage up the River — Mode of Navigation — Arrives at Propiha — Vegetation of the Country — Description of a Market Fair — Dress of the People — Voyage continued to Traipu — Passes the Ilha dos Prazeres — Barra de Panema — Abundance of Fish of the Salmon Tribe — Village of Lagoa Funda — Island of S. Pedro — Its Indian Population described — Continues the Voyage — Fearful Storm — Return to S. Pedro, Serious Illness and detention there — Scarcity of Food Renounces in consequence all intention of proceeding further — Returns to Penedo — Scheme for Navigating the Rio San Francisco — Reason why it will never succeed — Arrives again at Maceio — Visits Alagoas — That City Described — Leaves Maceio — Coasting Voyage — Singular Mode of catching Fish — Return to Pernambuco 100

Chapter V. Ceara

PERNAMBUCO TO CRATO. The Author leaves Pernambuco in a Coasting Vessel — Description of the Voyage — Touches at Cape San Roque — Arrives at Aracaty — Seaport of Province of Ceara — Town described — its Trade — Whole Province subject to great droughts — Commencement of Journey into the Interior — Passes Villa de San Bernardo — Arid nature of the Country — Catingas — Arrives at Ico — Town CONTENTS. XI Page. described — Journey continued — Villa da Lavra de Mangabeira — Gold Washings abandoned — Country begins to improve — Reaches the Villa do Crato — Town described — Low state of morals among the Inhabitants — Sugar Plantations — Mode of Manufacture — Coarse kind of Sugar formed into Cakes cfilled Rapadura, in which state it is used throughout the Province- State of Cultivation in the Neighbourhood — Production of the Country — Serra de Araripe — Different kinds of timber — Wild fruits — Wandering tribes of Gypsies frequent — Great religious Festival — Climate — Diseases 149

Chapter VI. Ceara Continued

Reasons for delaying journey into the Interior — Visits, meanwhile, different places in the Vicinity of Crato — Crosses the Serra de Araripe — Reaches Cajazeira — Arrives at Barra do Jardim — Description of that Town and Neighbourhood — Meets with an interesting deposit of Fossil fishes — Geological character of the Country — Detects a very extensive range of Chalk formation — First discovery of such Beds in South America — The accompanying formation described — This range of Mountains encircles the vast Plain comprising the Provinces of Piauhy and Maranham — Arrives at Macape — Great religious Festival on Christmas day — Meets with an accident — Visits also Novo Mundo — Discovers other deposits of Fossil Fishes near these places1 — Vegetable productions along the Taboleira — Different Tribes of uncivilized Indians in that Neighbourhood — Curious account of the fanatical sect of the Sebastianistas — Their extravagant belief Commit human sacrifices — Their destruction and dispersion — Returns to Crato 198

Chapter VII. Crato To Piauhy

Preparations for the Journey — Leaves Crato — Passes Guaribas— Reaches Brejo grande — Discovers more Fossil Fishes — Passes Olho d'Agoa do Inferno — Arrives at Poco de Cavallo — Crauata — Cachoeira — Marmeleira — Rosario — Os defuntos — Lagoa — Varzea da Vaca — Angicas — Crosses the boundary line of the Province of Piauhy — Arrives at San Gonsalvo — Campos — Lagoa comprida — Difficulties of the road — Reaches Corumata — Cana- CONTENTS. XII Pase. 222 254 brava — Arrives at Boa Esperanca, a large estate owned by an excellent clergyman — Is now in the midst of the great Cattle Districts — Nature of the Country described — Marked into two Kinds, Mimoso and Agreste — Passes Santa Anna das Merces — San Antonio — Cachimbinho — Vegetation of the surrounding Country — ReachesRetiro — Buquerao — Canavieira — Crosses the River Caninde and arrives at Oeiras, the Capital of the Province of Piauhy

Chapter VIII. Oeiras To Parnagua

The Author's reception by the President of Piauhy — City of Oeiras described — Its Population — Its Trade with the Coast — Great want of River Navigation — Its chief exports are hides and cattle — Its Climate — Diseases — Character of the Barao de Parnahiba — His great power in the Province — History of this remarkable Man — And of the Civil War on Declaration of the Independence of Brazil — Resources of the Province — National Cattle Farms — Course ofthe a\uthor's Journey quite changed by an alarming Revolt — This Insurrection described — He determines on travelling southwards through Goyaz and Minas Geraes — Leaves Oeiras — Description of theCountry — Chapadas — Passes through many Cattle Farms — Curious mode of catching Cattle — Passes Pombas — Algodoes — Golfes — Retiro Alegre — Genipapo — Canavieira— Urusuhy — Prazeres — Description of a Piauhy Family Reaches Flores — Rapoza — Arrives at Parnagua — Universal Hospitality of the Natives — Salt found in the Neighbourhood.

Chapter IX. Parnagua To Natividade

Leaves Pamagua — Arrives at Saco do Tanque — Carrapatos a great pest to Travellers and Cattle — Vegetation of the Country — Crosses the Sen-as da Batalha and de Matto Grosso, the boundary of the Province of Piauhy — Descends into the district of Rio Preto — Account of the Cherente Indians — Arrives at Santa Rosa — Crosses the River Preto — Reaches the desolate region of Os Geraes — Passes over the elevated tfible-land Chapada da Mangabeira — Arrives at thelndianMissionof Duro — Description of these Indians — Reaches Cachoeira — Crosses the Serra do Duro Fords the River Manoel Alves — Arrives at Almas Galheiro XU1 Tage. CONTENTS. morto — Morhinos — Abundance of Wild Honey — Description of several kinds of Bees — Reaches Nossa Senhora d'Ampara — Mato Virgem — Goitre not uncommon — Passes Sociedade — Arrayal da Chapada — And arrives at Natividade 293

Chapter X. Natividade To Arrayas

The Town of Natividade described — Its Population — Dress and Manners of the People — Its Climate — Diseases — Goitre extremely prevalent — Excursion to the neighbouring lofty Mountain Range — Its Geology and Vegetation — Visits the Arraial da Chapada — Leaves Natividade — Passes San Bento, and arrives at the Ajrraial de Conceicao — Its Population — Veiy subject to Goitre — Probable cause of this Complaint — Reaohes Barra, and crosses the Rio de Palma — Arrives at Santa Brida — Stays at Sape — Account of the Animal and Vegetable Productions of the Neighbourhood — Reaches the Villa de Arrayas — the Town described — Geological Features of the surrounding Country — Its Climate and Productions — Alarm of the Inhabitants — Muster of the National Guard — Preparation for departure 336

Chapter XI. Arrayas To San Romao

Departure from Arrayas — Reasons for preferring the Route along the Serra Geral — Passes GameUeira — Bonita — Reaches San Domingo — San Joao — San Bernardo — Curious Fact respecting the Rio San Bernardo — Passes Boa Vista — Country consists of very elevated table-lands — Its Natural Productions — Arrives at Capella da Posse — San Pedro — San Antonio — Dores — Riachao — Animals greatly tormented by large Bats — Habits of these Vampires — Reaches San Vidal — Flight of Locusts — Passes Nossa Senhora d' Abbadia — Campinhas — Pasquada — San Francisco — Crosses River Carynhenha and enters the province of Minas Geraes — Country described — Habits of the great Ant-eater — Passes Capao de Casca — Descent of the Serra das Araras — Reaches San Jose — Rio Claro — Boquerao — Santa Maria — Espigao — Taboca — San Miguel — Crosses River Urucuya — Passes Riachao — Arrives at San Romao — Town described — Its Population — Habits of the People — Rio de San Francisco — Description of the different varieties of the Salmon tribe found in it . . CONTENTS. XIV Page. 419

Chapter XII. San Romao To The Diamond District

Leaves San Romao — Passes Guaribas — Passagem — Geraes Velhas — Espigao — Caisara — Cabeceira — Arrives at the Villa de Formigas — Town described — Account of the impostor Douville — Country around rich in botanical products — Passes Viados — Ai-rives at the Arraial de Bomfim — Reaches San Eio — Sitio — Comes to a Gold Working called Lavrinha — Crosses the River Inhacica — Reaches As Vargems — Registo do Rio Inhahy — Bassoras on the River Jiquitinhonha — Examines a Diamond Mine— Formation in which the Diamond is found — Mode of working it — Arrives at the Arraial de Mendanha — Town described — Ascends the Serra de Mendanha — Reaches Duas Pontes — Arrives at the Cidade Diamantina, formerly the Arraial de Tejuco, the Capital of the Diamond District — Town situated on side of hill — Description of its Population — Their mode of Dress — Its cold Temperature — Productions of its Neighbourhood — Mining for Diamonds, formerly a privileged Monopoly, now open to all — Character of Miners — Extent of Diamond Mines — Privilege of Slaves there employed — Climate very Healthy — Women very Handsome — Complaints incident to its Climate — Loyalty shown by its Inhabitants — Fatality among Horses . . .

Chapter XIII. Cidade Diamantina To Ouro Preto

Leaves the Cidade Diamantina — Reaches As Borbas — Passes the Arraial do Milho — Tres Barras — Arrives at the Cidade do Serro, formerly Villa do Principe — The Town described — Passes Tapanhuacanga — Retiro de Pahre Bento — N.S. de Conceicao — Description of an Iron Smelting Work at Girao — Vast abundance of Iron Ores in this District — Reaches Escadinha — Morro de Gaspar Soares and two other Iron Smelting Works and Forges — Ponte Alta — Itambe — Passes Onca — Ponte de Machado, where frost was seen — and arrives at Cocaes — Visits the large Establishment of the Cocaes English Mining Company — The Author's unkind reception by the Director of that Establishment — Reaches S. Joao do Morro Grande, part of theMiningEstablishment of the English Gongo Soco Company — Hospitable reception — and visit to the Gold Mines — Its Workings described — Geological structure of the Mines and the surrounding Country CONTENTS.

XV Page, 472 513 — Leaves Gongo Soco and passes Morro Velho — Rapoza — And reaches the Establishment of another English Mining Company at Morro Velho — The Author's delight on receiving letters after two years' absence — His kind reception and abode there — Village of Congonhas de Sahara described — Attached to the Gold Mines of Morro Velho — Account of those Mines — Mode of working and extracting Gold from the Ore — Visits the City of Sahara Mining Estiiblishment of Cuiaba — Serra de Piedade— And Serra del Curral del Rey — Leaves Morro Velho — Reaches the Villa de Caete — Passes S. Jose de Morro Grande — Barra — Brumado — Serra de Caraca — Catas altas— Inficcionado — Bento Rodri guez — Camargos — And reaches San Caetano — Visits the City of Mariana — Passes the Serra de Itacolumi — Arraial de Passagem — And arrives at the City of Ouro Preto, formerly Villa Rica — City described — its Population — College — and Botanic Garden

Chapter XIV. Ouro Preto To Rio De Janeiro, And Second Visit To

THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS. Leaves Ouro Preto — Arrives at San Caetano — Passes Arraial de Pinheiro — Piranga — Filippe Alvez — San Caetano — Pozo Alegre — Sadly incommoded by a thunder-storm — Reaches Arraial das Merces Chapeo d'Uva — Entre os Morros — Crosses Rio Parahybuna — And enters the Province of Rio de Janeiro — Passes Paiol — ReachesVilla de Parahyba — Crosses the RiverParahyba — Mode of Ferrying described — Passes Padre Correa — Con-ego Seco — Reaches summit Pass of the Serra d'Estrella — Magnificent View of the Metropolitan City, its Harbour, and sui-rounding scenery — Arrives at Porto d'Estrella — Embarks for the City and finally arrives at Rio de Janeiro — All the Collections brought from the Interior are arranged and shipped to England — The Author resolves again to visit the Organ Mountains — His departure for the Serra — Adds largely to his Collections — Ascends the loftiest peaks of the Mountains — Their elevation above the sea about 7,500 feet — Departs on an excursion to the Interior — Passes the Serra do Capim- — Monte Caffe — Santa Eliza — Sapucaya — Porto d'Anta — Crosses Rio Parahyba — Passes Barro do Lourical — San Jose — Porta da Cunha — Recrosses the Rio Parahyba — Reaches Cantagallo — Visits Novo Friburgo — Description of these two Swiss Colonies — Pleasant sojourn in the Organ Mountains CONTENTS. Page. 548

Chapter XV. Maranham, Voyage To England, Conclusion

Leaves the Organ Mountains and returns to Rio de Janeiro — embarks for England with large collections of living and dried Plants — Touches at Maranham — City described — Its Population — Public Buildings — and Trade — Geology of its neighbourhood — Visits Alcantara — Sails for England — Gulph Weed — Its great extent and origin — Flying Fishes — Observations on their mode of flight — Remarkable Phosphorescence at Sea — Description of the singular animal that causes this phenomenon — Its curious nests — Scintillations at Sea caused by a very minute kind of Shrimp — Arrives in England — Concluding remarks MA1V ©2F3BISA2aia TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL.

Chapter I. Rio De Janeiro

Motives for visiting Brazil — Voyage from England — Amval at Rio de Janeiro — Description of the City — Its Environs — Geological Character of its Neighbourhood — Its Chmate — Its Inhabitants — State of Slavery in Brazil — General good treatment of Slaves — Different Mixed Races — Excursion to the Mountains surrounding the Capital — Its Botanical Garden — Museum of Natural History. Having devoted much of uiy leisure time, during the course of a medical education, to the study of Natural History generally, but more particularly to Botany ; and my mind being excited by the glowing descriptions, which Humboldt and other travellers have given of the beauty and variety of the natural productions of tropical countries, the magnificence of thenmountain scenery, and the splen dour of their skies, an ardent desire seized me to travel in such regions.

I! My early patron and teacher in Botany, Sir William J. Hooker, then professor of that science in the University of Glasgow, aware of my wishes, strongly recommended a voyage to some part of South America ; and Brazil was fixed on as the best field for my researches, as the vegetable productions of that immense empire were then less known to the English botanist than those perhaps of any other country of equal size in the world. It was true that it had been visited both by German and French Naturalists, but no Englishmen, with the exception of Cunningham and BoAvie, and the intrepid Burchell, had penetrated into the interior ; whole provinces, particularly in the north, still lay open as virgin fields for the investigations of some future traveUer ; and these I was desirous to explore. The preparations necessary for such an undertaking having been completed, I left GlasgoAV on the 14th of May, 1836, and on the 20th of the same month embarked at Liverpool, on board the Barque ' Memnon,' bound for Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Brazil.

The voyage across the Atlantic to South America has been too often described for me to say more than that we had a sah' share of calms and squalls, of bright skies and brilliant sim-sets, of sharks and Avhales, flying fishes, and phosphorescent waves. A tedious, but not unpleasant voyage, brought us in sight of land on the 22nd of July. When day broke, Cape Erio, as had been predicted by the captain, was seen, bearing N.N.E., about twenty-five miles distant. This Cape is about seventy miles to the eastward of Rio de Janeiro, and a range of high undulating hills stretch be tween them, covered to their topmost ridge with trees. On their summits, numerous Palms with their slender shafts surmounted by a ball-like mass of leaves, rising far above the other denizens of the forest, and standing boldly out in relief against a beautiful blue sky, give a marked cha racter to the scene, and silently proclaim to the European his approach to a world the vegetation of which is very different from that of the one he has so recently left.

The winds were light all day, and as we sailed close along the coast, my eye, through the medium of the ship's teles cope, was constantly surveying the wild but beautiful scene, and in imagination I was already reveUing amid its multiform natural productions. It was long past noon before we reached the entrance to the Bay of Rio, which is very remarkable for the number of conical hills and islands whicli are to be seen on both sides of it. One of these hiUs is the well-known Pao d'Acucar, so called from its resemblance to a sugar loaf. It is a solid mass of granite, rising to the height of about one thousand feet, and destitute of vegetation, with the exception of a few stunted shrubs on its eastern declivity. Seen from a great distance at sea, it is an admirable land-mark for ships making the port.

Passing through the magnificent portal, we came to an anchor a few miles below the city, not being aUowed to proceed further tUl we were visited by the authorities. It is quite impossible to express the feelings which arise in the mind whUe the eye surveys the beautifully varied scenery which is disclosed on entering the harbour — scenery which is perhaps unequalled on the face of the earth, and on the production of which nature seems to have exerted aU her energies. Since then I have visited many places celebrated for their beauty and their grandeur, but none of them b have left a like impression upon my mind. As far up the Bay as the eye could reach, lovely little verdant and palm-clad islands were to be seen rising out of its dark bosom, wlnle the hiUs and lofty mountains which sur round it on all sides, gUded by the rays of the setting sun, formed a befitting frame for such a picture.

At night the lights of the city had a fine effect ; and when the land-breeze began to blow, the rich odour of the orange and other perfumed floAvers, was borne sea-ward along with it, and, by me, at least, enjoyed the more from having been so long shut out from the companionship of flowers. Ceylon has been celebrated by voyagers for its spicy odom's, but I have twice made its shores with a land breeze blowing, without experiencing any half so SAveet as those which greeted my arrival at Rio. On the foUowing morning, the 23rd of July, I first put foot on the shores of the great continent of the new Avorld. If the aspect of the country, and the nature of the vegetation were so different from those of the old country, hoAV much more strange were the human beings which first met my sight on landing.

The numerous smaU boats and canoes which ply about in the harbour, are all manned Avith African blacks ; the long narroAV streets through Avhich we passed were crowded with the same race, nearly naked, many of them sweating under thenloads, and smeUing so strongly as to be almost in tolerable. Scarcely a white face was to be seen. The shops, in the most of which both the doors and windows are thrown open during the day, seemed to be attended to by Mulattos, or by Portuguese of nearly as dark a hue. Seen from the ship in the morning the city had a most imposing appearance, from its position, and the number of its white-washed churches and houses ; but nearer contact with it dispelled the iUusion. The streets are narrow and dirty, and what with the stench from the thousands of negroes which throng them, and the effluvia from the numerous provision shops, the first impressions are anything but agreeable.

I could not help recaUing to mind the lines, in ' Childe Harold,' Avhich Byron has applied to the capital of the mother country : — " But whoso entereth within this town, That, sheening far, celestial seems to be, Disconsolate will wander up and down, 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee For hut and palace show Uke filthily : The dingy citizens are reared in dirt. — : The city of Rio occupies part of an irregular triangular tongue of land, whicli is situated on the west side of the Bay, about three mUes northward from the entrance. The ground on which it stands is, for the most part, level, but toAvards the north, the west, and the south-east, it is bounded by a series of lulls. The long narrow streets run at right angles to each other, by which the houses are thrown into great square masses.

The new toAvn stretches out in a north-west direction, and is separated from the old one by a large square caUed the Campo de Santa Anna. Beyond it a narrow branch of the Bay runs inland, to the left of which is the extensive suburb of Catumbi, and farther on those of Mataporco and Engenho Velho. Besides the Campo de Santa Anna there are two other large squares, one before the theatre, and another at the landing place, in Avhich is situated the palace formerly occupied by the Viceroys. The Royal Palace of S. Cristovao, the residence of the Emperor, is a great and irregular mass of budding, situated a little way beyond the neAV town. Not only are the streets narrow and dirty, but they are also badly lighted and worse paved, notwithstanding the city is immediately surrounded by mountains of the most beautiful granite.

The houses are very sub stantially buUt, for the most part of granite, consisting principally of only two or three stories. It contains seve ral fine churches, but few of them are so situated as to be seen to advantage. That of Nossa Senhora da Gloria is one of the most conspicuous, being placed on a rounded hiU of the same name, that juts into the sea between the city and the Praia de Elamengo. Besides the churches there are many other public buildings, among which may be mentioned the Monastery of San Bento, near the harbour, the Convent of Santa Thereza on the broAV of a hiU beside the noble aqueduct by which the water for the supply of the city is conveyed from the mountains, a Mint, an Opera House, a Theatre, a public Library, which is said to contain about one hundred thousand volumes, a Museum of Natural History, a Medical School, two Hospitals, and, what the inhabitants boast very much of, the Camara dos Senadores, which is equivalent to our House of Lords.