Gleanings and Remarks: collected during many months of residence at Buenos-Ayres, and within the Upper Country; with a prefatory account of the expedition from England, until the surrender of the ... Cape of Good Hope. With a map, etc

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c GLEANINGS AND EEMARKS: COLLECTED DURING MANY MONTHS OF RESIDENCE AT BUENOS AYEES, AND AVITHIN THE UPPER COUNTRY; IVITH A PREFATORY ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION FROM ENGLAND, UNTIL THE Surrmtitrof ttJcColoniioftfje^flp^of^oo&lgDpr, UNDER THE JOINT COMMAND OF SIR D. BAIRD, G.C.B. K.C. AND SIR HOME POPJJJM, K.C.B. BY MAJOR ALEXANDER GILLESPIE, Row upon the Full- Pay retired List oj the Royal Marines. Illustrated with a Map of South America, and a Chart of Rio dc !a Plata, with piloiage Directions. LEEDS: PRINTED BY B. DI WHIRM FOR THE AUTHOR: SOLD BY J. W. WH1TELEY, 103, NEW GATE-STREET, LONDON; 1'OBJNSON, SON, & HOLDSWORTH; AND HAEDCASTLB, LEEDS. 1818. INTEODUCTION. The military traveller whom professional destiny throws amongst the different quarters of the globe, may be justly compared to the giddy and fortuitous stranger, who visits an extensive museum, where he admires every thing, but examines into nothing.

Assuming this simile to himself, the Author of the following Narrative has aptly preferred the humble title of " a Gleaner," to a higher name, upon taking a review of the luxuriant fields through ivhich he has wandered, and when looking at the scanty gatherings he has to offer from them. But such as they are, he has spread them out to be winnowed by the winds, in the hope that a few scattered seeds may somewhere take root, and vegetate for the benefit of others. Alternately a conqueror and a captive upon the shores of La Plata, it was his lot to derive a privilege from misfortune, which had been denied for ages to the most favoured foreigner. By this inverted cause of incidents, he was not only allowed, but compelled to penetrate many hun dred miles within its interior, to have a glance at its productions, and to associate with its natives.

Still, after all, and however much the progress of the prisoner may be elongated between two distant extremities, he is yet unhappily restrained from stepping far to either side, by the laws of honour, and of vigilant coercion. His remarks therefore, must be confined almost within the narrow line over which he treads, consequently often uninterresting, and few in their number, when compared with those of the freeman. His records too must be more various than compleat, when they are noted upon little scraps of paper., and his deductions neither positive nor sure, when he is precluded from every source of scientific reference. Had it not been for ihe mighty events that have recently passed within the country, about which these details exclusively treat, and the elevated independent rank she has finally at , tained amongst the nations, they never would have been obtruded upon the public, but contemplating the immense and inexhaustible range, which her freedom opens to the commercial enterprize of his own, the universal and prevalent ignorance of her wants, her customs, and her manners, the writer of those Gleanings has ventured to com mit them to the world, under a strong sense of social duty, and a zealous wish to contribute his mite toward the general good. They lay no claim to merit but in their truth, no aim at ex cellence beyond their simplicity. Leeds, October 1st, 1818. GJLEANINGS & 1EMARKS.

Chapter II

A MOST intelligent, and very interesting description of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope which had proceeded some years before, from the pen of Mr. Barrow, roused our government to a true sense of its value, as a military and commercial entre-depot for India, from its important geographical position, and its unbounded productions. It may not be un worthy to remark tlie secrecy and address with which this equipment was managed, so opposite to our usual preparations for a secret expedition, against that settlement. In July 1805, the Diadem returned to Portsmouth, where orders had arrived for a foreign outfit. A great many packages and letters were daily shipped, addressed for Constantinople, whither all supposed we were assuredly bound upon a diplomatic mission, and every one anxiously expected the great and wise man who was to conduct it.

The rumour obtained general belief, but very trifling incidents will often overthrow the best concerted schemes. One day some horses were embarked, and it was noticed on one of theircovers, to be stamped with the name of Sir David Baird. Our eyes were opened, and all instantly concluded that our future vocations wanted not the auxili aries of pen, ink, and paper, but those of shot, shells, and gunpowder. Cotemporary with this, a large body of troops was in readiness to embark at Cork, the com mand of which was assumed by that general, while on the same plan of combination, a naval force under sealed orders, was pushed on to Madeira, our general rendezvous, there to await the arrival of that armament, and of a mercantile fleet destined for the West-Indies. The Diadem reached Ireland early in August, and soon after 1 4 Indiamen, having soldiers on board, and after every arrangement made, the whole set sail on the 31st, and in the evening gained an offing, with a fine leading wind.

Our passage thither was tedious, and stormy, affording no interest, except our having seen a large squadron one afternoon, supposed to have been enemies, which never appeared again after the darkness came on. On the 29th of September we anchored in the Bay of Funchal, when our total effective force for the expedition was concentred. A maritime power, like Britain, has always the exclusive means of projecting and accomplishing great designs, by a judicious direction of them, and a wise combination. The approaches to the town of Funchal, appear picturesque, and few prospects offer a finer display for the pencil. Houses inter spersed with trees, promiscuously towering above one another, together with luxuriant vineyards upon the sloping sides of the adjacent mountains in the shape of an amphitheatre, finely diversified by streams and villas, are at once embraced by the eye.

But on landing the fairy picture vanishes, as little but ruinous houses, and dirty streets, in a constant bustle from sledges, and men bearing down to the beach the wines of the island for shipment, are to be observed. The odours too from those narrow places, need not description. In all catholic countries the churches are the prominent specimens of their wealth and arts. Here they are inferior edifices, and although the painting and gilding within them are tolerable, yet the pentiles of them all are miserably finished. Their fortifications, and military establishment, were alike despicable ; but doubtless many reforms for the better, have been instituted since the British held Madeira in trust. Upon the 3d of October the united convoys departed, and that bound for the Antilles separated on the 6th together with the Narcissus frigate, Captain Donelly, to cruize for intelligence near to the Cape of Good Hope.

Two very unfortunate accidents occurred on the 3d. of November in the wreck of the King George Transport, and the ultimate loss of the Britannia East-Indiaman, which ship though got off the Eoccas Eeef sunk in a few hours after it. Two lives perished in the former, and a woman who was delivered on the same morning was providentially saved together with her infant. Brigadier General Yorke, who commanded the artillery department, suffered on this occasion. When she touched, the bowsprit of the King George was perpendicular to tlie rocky surface, which happily preserved the crew. That officer was urged to follow their example, but irresolute betwixt two worlds, and being anxious to bear along with him a box of guineas, he went below for it, but in the attempt to be lowered down, he missed his hold, when dropping into a depth, he fell an instantaneous prey to the sharks floating around in numbers.

His death was considered a great professional loss. Those shoals, scarcely visible above water, are about 17 leagues to the West of Fernando de Noronha, an island near the Brazilian Coast ; they lay in about 33° 23" West longitude, and 40° 46" South latitude. After a dispersion on the 6th of November, the whole expedition arrived in the Bay of All-Saints, St. Salvador upon the 11th. The entrance to it is grand, and a stranger feels a great desire to visit the city, formed by the upper and lower towns. The latter contains an excellent dockyard in good order, near to which are wine vaults of a prodigious extent, and well stored, belonging to a company at Lisbon, besides a neat ex change, Avhere gold and jewels are exposed for sale. The two services were furnished here with 66 pipes of sound port, at each.

Like all other parts of the world where Englishmen repair, tlie markets rose exhor bitantly, and the pilot of the port, seizing the occasion, set up an ordinary and a grog shop, from which he realized 5000 dollars during our stay. An established Consul is the only medium, through whom such glaring imposi tions can be remedied in foreign harbours. You proceed to the Upper Town by a gradual and pleasant ascent, and you are not disappointed when you reach it. At once are comprehended a view of the sea, of the bay with its fortified islands, and an extensive range of beautiful country. The sick were encamped on the summit, where they quickly recovered. The streets are neat, and the buildings elegant, and both towns possess churches well decorated within, and of good exterior appearance. All of them have organs.

Going into one of them with Dr. Emmerson of the medical staff, who was an excellent performer, he offered his services. It caused a short demur, but they were at last accepted, and the heretic was allowed to play. He instantly struck off God save the king, Britons strike home, Britannia rules the waves, and some other grand national airs with admirable effect. The glances, and attitudes of the hearers, fully interpreted their sensibility to the sound of our music, although bigotry had rendered them inexorable to the charms of our religion. The position of the city of St. Sal vador, with its extended suburbs, is upon a peninsula to the partial view, which is formed by a salt-marsh stretching nearly around the whole, connected by an isthmus, with the main land not a mile in breadth. On this rests a fort with no outworks, but having four well-constructed bastions, but so small as to allow but one gun to defend the face, and another the slank of each.

The ditch is deep, and descends into the Lower Town at its en trance, rounding the point of a bastion, and so up a gentle eminence, where the North Eastern suburb is situated. Beyond these are lines that crown the heights, and overlook the shore. The defences towards the sea are formidable from many scattered batteries, but especially one that flanks them all, about 300 yards from the beach. Being a great naval, as well as commercial depot, the military force here is always strong, and part of it respectable. Most of the soldiers on guard, I observed, were decently clothed and armed, but examine their cartouch-boxes, you will be surprized to find them full of ammunition for the belly, not for the field, composed of a thick porridge made with water, from the meal of Indian corn. Before taking leave of this spot, I would caution my countrymen who may hereafter visit it, against mingling with the natives after sunset, and still more from confiding in the boatmen who may carry them afloat after dark.

Always be armed with small pistols, and shew those fellows you are so. This will induce their fidelity from fear, otherwise they may shape their course in an opposite direction, and if superior, will unrelentingly murder you for your imagined property. An example of this occurred while we were here, to some cadets going to India, who incautiously took passage with some of those villains, and who being defenceless, were assassinated in the most barbarous manner. Similar attempts were tried upon others, but they were foiled by a determined shew of resistance. An excursion for a day up a narrow river that discharges into the bay, in search of live-stock exhibited a beautiful chequered interior, abounding and varied with wheat and maize fields, hills and fertile vallies. My friend and self were hospitably entertained by a collector of the land-tax, to whom we carried a letter of introduction, seconded by two still more powerful advocates, presents of gunpowder, and several bottles of porter.

After landing near to his home, having a chapel attached, we were ushered into a large room with an earthern floor, not unlike a kitchen in disorder. The venerable patriarch, for he merits the title, was seated in an arm chair, surrounded by three generations from his own loins, who were walking about, or crawling on the ground, besides a groupe of dogs, cats, pigs, and poul try to vary the piece. AVe were cordially received, and the eyes of the old gentleman glistened bright, when we unbagged our offerings. After a hearty dinner, repeated in the name of a supper, and pleasant repose, a horn was sounded in the morning, summoning all his liege dependents to bring in their com modities for sale, and having laid in our sup plies at a rate which inclined us to suspect that our landlord must have had a fellow-feeling of interest in them, we shipped our adventure, wished the family good bye, and rejoined the Diadem in the evening.

Every preparation finished, and our sick recruited, the fleet departed from the Bay of All-Saints on the 28th. of November. Along the whole of the Brazilian Coast, and even at Sea, we passed close to several flat square boats, railed in at the edges, with short masts in the centre, carrying a small sail, that were often com pletely covered by the water, and which a stranger would at every wave, dread were swallowed up. But they skim along with safety, and are engaged in fishing, or in com municating with any vessels they may meet. Nothing intervened in our passage to the African coast, until the dawn of the 4th of January, 1806, when the Table Mountain, its Southern promentory, was seen just above the horizon. Several days elapsed before a landing could be ventured on, owing to heavy gales, and a dangerous surf along the whole line of our disembarkation, from Cape Town to the Bay of Lospard's at its opposite extremity.

CHAP. III. DEMONSTEATIONS of landing, and a series of reconnaissance along the line of shore in Table Bay, preceded a partial debarkation of the 71st light company,in the smallinlet ofLos pard,upon the afternoon ofthe sixth of January Although a dense tangle of seaweed from its entrance to the landing place, totally im peded the advance of our boats, and commanding sandhills lined both its flanks, which if occupied with a few fieldpieces, and some hundred infantry, might have repelled any attempt ; still the Dutch shewed only a few rifle-men, who opened a loose fire, and on being pushed by our detachment, they injudiciously abandoned those valuable heights ; retiring precipitately to the elevated grounds that intervened betwixt us and their main army on the fields of Blueberg. A very lamentable accident befel thirty-five fine fellows of the 93d. who were drowned close to the beach, owing to the mentioned obstruction, and perhaps from a sudden movement in the boat, proceeding from a want of familiarity with that new danger.

Throughout the whole of this service, the promptness and dexterity Of the seamen from the transports were eminently conspicuous, and far superior to those from the men of war. That occasion naturally obtrudes the suggestion how essential it is that a portion of every crew in the navy should be exercised in this arduous branch of duty. Upon most seacoasts a heavy surf succeeds a gale, or arises from other elementary causes. In this instance I observed the former descrip tion of sailors to land the troops quite dry in their persons and ammunition, while the latter confused or appalled by every succeeding swell, by exposing the sides of their launches to each, endangered both the lives and the effective use of every soldier. Generally speaking, a thorough science with such casualties, and the ready methods of avoiding them, cannot be too extensively inculcated on every one destined for a sea life.

General Jansens had most imprudently committed his fortune to a battle in the field, instead of maintaininganddefending the strong lines of Cape Town, with his numerous army. Having adopted decisively this alternative, he cooly awaited, in full array, the approach of the British on the morning of the 7th. of January. It would exceed my purpose and limits " again to fight the fight, again to slay the slain/' It is enough to state that the conflict was for a time obstinate, but that a gallant charge of the Highland Brigade under General Ferguson, broke, and put the enemy to flight, which was instantly followed up by a rapid pursuit. The animated fire of thirty-six Chinese, who acted on foot as artillerists with six light guns, which they managed most admirably against the various positions of our line, was much praised.

They subsequently enlisted with us in the same character. The disposition of our squadron under weigh in the bay overlooked every movement of the retreat ing army, and accordingly its marines were landed in their rear; a resolve, had it been persevered in, which would have given a sine termination to the d'ay, by that fresh body coming in contact with the troops of the enemy, at that crisis in a totally exhausted state from a confined march of several miles, nearly knee deep in sand. But although some representations were offered to that amount, as well as its practability, yet the exertions of that spirited department were confined, by orders, to the canonade of a house within a square inclosure which had been recently evacuated by the Dutch, instead of defiling along the salt-pans to the right, and by a double-time movement, striking at any optional point of their disordered columns.

In place of this too, we were soon after united to our own army, and rested on the spot with it until the afternoon. Jansens though beaten, still kept together a respectable force with which he retired into the Hottentot Kloof, with the intention of cutting off the supplies of Cape Town, which he thus abandoned to its fate, and by raising insurrection amongst the Caffre Tribes, to render our possession of it both irksome and precarious. He trusted also to the chance of aiming a blow at some of our outports. The noon of the 9th. of January placed Sir David Baird upon the banks of the salt river, three miles distant from the capital, whence a summons for its imme diate surrender was sent in. An unnecessary delay in answering the flag, induced that officer to put his army in motion for the assault about two, on seeing which, the prof fered terms were accepted, and on the same evening the British colours were hoisted on all the works.

It yet remained incumbent to bring Jansens to submission, for which purpose the Highland Brigade was ordered out, accompanied by Mr. Thomas Tennant, an English settler in the colony, who had been in personal intimacy, and held much influence over the opinions of that general. This expedient happily effected its complete conquest without farther bloodshed, and added a gem to the crown, not exceeded by any other in solid value. Premiums for flour and other articles soon restored plenty, and evinced their superabun dance in the country, while a public procla mation stamping a fixed medium for the paper circulation, that had long laboured in an unde termined and a depressed state, restored general confidence, and a revival of trade. None rejoiced more in this event than some of our countrymen, who had remained after its late cession to the Dutch, under the pro tection of that government ; they taking the oaths of allegiance to it.

One of them, an ex perienced agriculturist, had been sent out by the Society in England, while the Cape was under our dominion, to superintend its practi cal improvements, around a considerable dis trict. A spot of more than 200 acres was allotted to him in fee, as a farm for residence, and science, and his zeal and genius, were remunerated by a regular contract for 1000 ploughs adapted to local cultivation, of his own invention, at 100 rix-dollars each, or 2s. 9d. sterling. This was only in part fulfilled when the colony was restored to Holland, and a few specimens delivered, but afterwards it was shamefully annulled by the authorities, and the individual almost ruined. The superior excellence of the Constantia c wines, a grape limited to two farms situated on a range of heathy ground, is a proof that its cultivation might be more extensively pursued, if properly encouraged.

Mr. William Maude, a gentleman of property in the colony, and possessing much public spirit, shewed by a series of practice, and a close attention to the vines, their capability of producing a very superior sort to that now imported for general use in England. Instead of promiscuously mixing the ripe and unripe fruit together with the stalks, as has been the usage, and still I believe prevails, he carefully selected it into two distinct crops, and manufactured each when in a state of perfect maturity. This observance, and the placing a superintendent upon every one of his estates, to prune and watch the progress of the trees, gave evidence of the fact in various kinds, of an exquisite quality, which annually, and progressively, were highly improved. He purposed in time to bring them to an equal perfection with those upon Constantia.

That individual complained bitterly of the arbitrary conduct and exactions of the Dutch government after he became its subject, which was conceived also to have com mitted a flagrant breach of faith in not having annulled the currency of the floating paper money, in conformity to the stipulations upon the late restoration of the colony by the British, and in consideration of a sum paid to their authorities, with that exclusive object. Of course every rix-dollar in business, became lawful prize to the captors, and the fraud was obviously discovered, in their dates being previous to that event, and to our reconquest of the colony. Trade could not be easily carried on here without the aids of those printed instruments, for which not only the public on the spot, but our national pledge is the guarantee.

In a financial view, there is no part of our territories so economically supported as the Cape, because its native commerce contributes much from its revenue to the maintenance of our civil and military establishments there, and the state of exchange being from twenty-six to thirty-three in favour of the Crown for public bills, that excess is consequently a gain to it. As the Dutch flag was displayed long after the capture of the town, on the batteries and ships, several arrivals under neutral colours took place ; some of which being French property were condemned, and a tender of Admiral Linois, with La Volontaire frigate, being decoyed into the bay by this stratagem, were taken. On board the latter was a lieutenant of their navy, named Steitz, a Hamburgher, who was an old acquaintance of Sir Home Popham's. Whether from the joy on renewing it, or an open temper I know not, but his communications were free and candid, as to the state of European affairs, concerning the escape of some French Squadrons from their ports, but more especially respecting the ultimate destination of that from which his ship had been separated — being against the Cape of Good Hope.

So versatile was that c officer in his principles, he voluntarily lent his uniforms to ours on duty, when boarding vessels coming into the bay, and was in every way most officious to serve us. He avowed having been some years before employed as a spy in the North of Scotland, where he married a lady of good family and fortune, with wnom he still held an uninteirupted correspondence. His disclosures were such as to render preparations necessary for receiving Admiral Jerome Buonaparte, by anchoring our squadron in proper positions in the bay, and strengthening the shore line with additional cannon, outworks, and lighted furnaces for redhot shot. But the fleet not appearing after a lapse of weeks, and knowing their inability to keep the sea so long without supplies, as well as their habitual terror of taking refuge in any port to seek them, it was concluded as certain that they had been diverted from prosecuting their final design.

The winter was now coming on, when a farther continuance in Table Bay must have been attended with danger, and permit ted an interval of months for active operation in some other quarter, not subject to storms at this season, without the risk of our newly recovered dominions being exposed to any serious attack, or to maritime insults. Amongst other vessels, there was at this time an American brig at anchor in the bay, com manded by a Captain Wayne, who had been employed in the slave-trade, and in the course of it had frequently visited Monte Video, and Buenos Ayres. On board the Diadem also, were two sailors, who had touched at both places, and one of them had been some years a resident in that capital. All coincided in accounts of their defenceless state, of their relaxed discipline, their unsuspecting security, and that a bold sudden blow at either, could not fail of success.

The idea once conceived, became cherished, and preparations com menced at the close of March, 1806. Having filled a civil situation on shore during our continuance at the Cape, it is my duty to acknowledge the many hospitalities received, before I take leave of it. They were many, and must always be warmly recognized, because they were disinterested. The climate is healthy, but the common wines in use must be carefully avoided by Europeans. Table d'hotes are numerous, where a stranger may dine sumptuously for a dollar, having a bottle of it at his elbow, but if he calls for foreign, he must pay extra. There are likewise several lodging-houses kept by respectable families, who take in those who choose, at very moderate rates, and to whom every comfort is supplied by separate bed-rooms, where each individual may breakfast, by an elegant table where the whole household assemble, as well as their visitors, to dine, which is often frequented too by residents of ascertained character.

Both sexes associate on such occasions. As all passengers to or from India, are supposed to disembark while these ships remain in port, those boarding-places are much thronged during the whole period of their stay, and they were indeed originally established with that speculative view. If an intruder beyond their regular hours of mealtime, shall enter a Dutch tavern, he may go away empty, for they will cook nothing after them. Some English adventurers however began, who knowing the whims, perfectly accommodated themselves to the taste and fashions of their countrymen. The gross manner of living in Cape Town, doubtless promotes the corpulency of its inhabitants — and it is no unusual thing to see a married lady, nay even the unwedded, to sup on fish swimming in the fat of sheep's tails, which are appropriated to the purpose of frying, a second course of beefsteaks with onions, and after a bumper of hollands, to dive into bed.

So far as I could observe, their conversation was languid, but their attentions to their children were amiable, and steady to their domestic concerns. Although Cape Town is seated on a desert, still the houses built of stone and whitewashed, are good, their streets very wide, and intersected at right-angles, are regular, and the interior country is highly cultivated by wealthy boors, and British settlers. About eight miles from it, there is a vast range of gardens planned by a Scotchman, not far from Constantia, who sells an immense variety of seeds in small baskets, subdivided into forty-eight sorts, which are very well adapted for our home soil, and indeed the chance traveller cannot offer a more handsome remembrance to his European friend than by a few of them, with a collection of those from the heath, that abound in an infi nite variety.

Many pretty villas have been pitched inland, and the adjacent grounds are much improved. The Table Mountain towering above the town, gives a grandeur to it from the bay, and it frankly warns the boatman against carrying sail, by a misty covering on its top, which always portends squally weather. The gusts are so sudden, that a craft is overset in a moment by their partial rage, when the surface is smooth as glass. The company's gardens in which stands the Governor's house, form a cool retreat during the day to the lounger, and in the evening are the resort of all descriptions, who are gratified till late, by a military band of music. Every shrub, or plant that can be found is here, and every fruit tree which is congenial to the climate. Oxen are the animals chiefly employed in labour. So pliant are they I have observed their drivers going at full speed with ten-in-hand, and their horses are deemed of much greater value as pacers, than trotters, to which they are trained.

In estimating distances they familiarly calculate by hours, not by miles, and the hire is determined by the former ; being a ratio of six for that space. While we were at the settlement, a journey unto Caffraria was undertaken by the Hon. Captain Gordon, nephew to Sir David Baird, in company with Major Boyer from Algoa Bay, who had officiated annually as the accredited representative of the Dutch and English Governments, to the court of Gyka their king. They were bearers of the first presents sent to him after our being masters of it. That promising officer, alter being attached to the staff of the Duke of Wellington, during the whole of the peninsular war, terminated his glorious career by the side of his noble protector, on the fields of Waterloo. His journal comprized a period of 36 days, during which an extent of 2000 miles was passed, with little variation on the road; both travelling on horseback chiefly, with their retinue and provisions in two covered waggons, drawn by oxen ; halting and reposing every night in the houses of the kindly boors, and undisturbed throughout, except by a few roving Boshmen who exist by the chase, and inhabit the cliffs, until they reached the abode of that royal chief.