The Dolomite Mountains. Excursions through Tyrol, Carinthia, Carniola, & Friuli in 1861, 1862, & 1863. With a geological chapter, and pictorial illustrations from original drawings on the spot

Front matter

EXCURSIONS THROUGH TYROL, CARINTHIA, CARNIOLA, AND FRIULI LONDON PRINTED BY BPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE J. Gilbert:, del! Hauls. >i t .mi,. MONTE CIVITA & LAKE & VILLAGE OF ALLEGHE. THE DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS. EXCURSIONS THROUGH TYROL, CARINTHIA, CARNIOLA. & FRIULI IX 1861, 1862, & 1863. WITH A GEOLOGICAL CHAPTER, AKD PICTORIAL ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS ON THE SPOT. BI JOSIAH GILBERT, and G. C. CHURCHILL F.G.S Onward, where the rude Carinthian boor Again, t the houseless stranger shuts the door. AN HERALDIC DOLOMITE. LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN, 1864.

Preface

. The great zone of the Alps stretches from the French Mediterranean coast on the west to the borders of Hungary on the east. The western and central por tions have been illustrated by numerous books of travel and adventure, but the eastern section has received very partial attention. Partial we may call it, since while Salzburg, the Salzkammergut, and Styria, on its northern side, have been, to a considerable extent, visited and described, the Venetian, Carnic, Julian, and Karawanken Alps, to the soutli, have been for the most part neglected by English tourists. The few notices of the Save and of the Isonzo valleys in the journals of Sir Humphry Davy, and brief descriptions of the Ampezzo route to Venice in the pleasant pages of Mrs. Trollope and Miss Sewell, are perhaps the only exceptions to this remark.

There is, therefore, a distinct blank in Alpine hterature, and this deficiency the present work claims in some measure to supply. We trust it will be seen that through no lack of intrinsic interest the South-Eastern Alps have been VI

PREFACE.

. left so long unexplored. The title of the volume points to one source of attraction in which these Alps have no competitor. The Dolomite Mountains, filling an extensive district in South Tyrol, and dis tributed in blocks along the chain eastward, are unique in Europe, both as regards the character of their scenery, and the geological problems connected with them. All matters personal to the Authors, which it may be desirable to explain, are given in the Introduction to the narrative. We are indebted to Messrs. Hanhart for the great pains they have taken, with a limited number of colours, to represent the general aspect of Dolomite landscape. Mr. E. Whymper's personal knowledge of mountains has enabled him, with rare delicacy and precision, to render the forms of Dolomite from the original drawings : for his fidelity in this respect, we are under especial obligations. Lou dok : Mu;/ 21, 18i>4. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. From The Danube To The Drave

The Lake of Hallstadt — Goldsmith in Carinthia — Hof and Bad Gastein — Ascent of the Gamskar Kogel — Bochstein and bad Weather — The extortionate Farmer — The Death Pictures and Chalets of Nassfeld — Cloud and Snow — The Tauernhaus, and Descent upon Malnitz — Ober Villach — The Pedlar Bedroom — Winklern and a Glimpse of Dolomite page 3

Chapter II. From The Drave To The Eisack

What and Where the Dolomites are — The 'Great Bell' — Heiligenblut, and the Story of Briccius — The Chevalier of Winklern — The Wizards enchant us, but we arrive at Lienz — Amman takes us in Charge — More Dolomites — Tyrol road-side Inns — Brunecken —Amman's Disaster — Brixen and the Brenner Road — Botzen Scenery ....... 25

Chapter III The Botzf

N DOLOMITES. Approach to Botzen — The First Dolomite — Ratzes Bath-House — The Seisser Alp and its Rim of Dolomites — Hauenstein Castle and Oswald the Minnesinger — A Legend— The Porphyry Plateau in Roman and Mediæval Times— The Hay-Bath— Pass of the Duron Thai to Campitello- Village Art — The Marmolata — Excursion to the Fedaia — Vigo — The Rosengarten — View from the Ridge of Monzoni— The Volcanic Theory — The Karneid Thai, and Legend of the Karneid Schloss — Return to Botzen . CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Ratzes And The Seisser Alp

Plans and Preparations— Lake of Constance — A Cross-road to Innsbruck — The Berg Isel, and Solitary Cross— A Night in the Diligence — Morning, and the first Dolomite— Ratzes Bath-house— A Day on the Seisser Alp— Castelruth— Ascent of the Hohe Schlern— Storm Effect— The Castle of Hauenstein page 91

Chapter V. Ratzes To Cortina

Departure from Ratzes— Sunday on the Seisser Alp — The Herdman's Hut —The Col and the Duron Thai— Campitello— The Festa— The Fedaia- Gorge of Sottoguda — Caprile, Monte Civita, and Lago Alleghe — Sta. Lucia and the Pass of the Gusella — Dolomitic Marvels — Descent upon Cortina ........... 122

Chapter VI. From The Ampezzo To The Gail Thal

Cortina — The Castle of Peutelstein — The Hollcn Thai and its Apparitions — Descent into the Pusterthal — The Source of the Drave — Lienz again — Amman's ' Turn Out '—Ober Drauberg— First Sight of the Gail Thai 153

Chapter VII. The Gail Thal

Aus der Plecken and its hearty Dame — The ' Romischer Weg ' —The Polinik and Kollin Kofel— Kotschach and the Festa — The Upper Gail — Hermagor- -The Wulfenia — The Gitsch Thai and a chatty Driver — The Weissensee — The crazy Boat — Bewild.-rment — Approach to Tarvis — Austrian Alpine Roads — What we have done, and what we are going to do 173

Chapter VIII The Isonzo

The Konigsberg — Rain, Night, and Soldiers at Raibl — Amelie sits for her Portrait — Raibl Mines and Raibl Lake — The Mangert — The Fort and the Lion — The Predil Pass — Desolation — The old Fort and ita Siege— Flitsch —The Stony Valley -The Cure of Sottha— The Prestelinik and its Wil- — The brave old Guide — Character of the Isonzo . . CONTENTS. IX

Chapter IX. The Uppeb Save

Return over the Predil — Sir Humphry Davy's ' Haunt' at Wurzen Pufitsch' s Inn at Kronau — Views above Wurzen — The Lakes of Weissenfels — A Pilgrimage Mountain and Sledge Practice — Peculiar Scenery of the I Save — Lengenfeld and the Terglou — A Day upon" the Prisinig— The Campanula /.oysii — Flocks descending from the Mountains. page 239

Chapter X. The Lake Of Veldes And The Wochein Save

The 'Gem of Carniola' — Feistritz and the Wochein— We invade the Terglou — Petran's Illness and our Defeat — A Vision of the Steiner Alp — W-ent of the Terglou by Capt. Holsmay — The Terglou Wilderness and the Julian Alps — Sclavonic Mass Music — Radmannsdorf and Sir Humphry — Krainberg .......... 265

Chapter XI. The Caldron Of The Steiner Alp

The Oistriza Spitze — The ' Caldron ' described by Lipold — Departure from Krainberg and Ascent of the Kankerthal — The Hill of the Seeberg — A Giant in the Twilight — Mrs. Popp and Kappel — The Sulzbach Woman — St. Leonhard — First View of the Caldron — The Widow's Inn — Early Visitors — The Waterfall aud the Bauer — The Grenadier and his Comrades — Are we Christians ? — The ' Needle's Eye ' — Laufen — The Grenadier makes a Night of it — The Drive to Cilli — Railway Retrospections 285

Chapter XII

A 'S LETTERS. Introductory — Gratz to the Lavant Thai — Wolfsberg — Ascent of the Kor Spitze — Kappel and the Gross Obir — Klagenfurt — Legend of the Dragon — The Zollfeld and its History^-- The Worther and Ossiacher Lakes — Bleiberg- Hermagor and the Wulfenia — Professor Vulpius's Adventure — Klagenfurt again, and the Satnitz Plateau — Wurzen and Raibl . 317

Chapter XIII. Mountains Of Friuli, Or Carnia

Plan of Journey — Diligence from Salzburg to Villach — Old Times at Villach — Ober Tarvis — Descent of the Pontebba — Resiutta — The Tagliamento and Tolmezzo — Adelaida — Arrival at Rigolato — Forni Avoltri— German Colony of Sappada ......... X CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. Titian's Country And The Ampezzo

Auronzo, and the Drive there— Wet Days — The Auronzo Dolomites — Approach to Titian's Country— Cadore— The Titian Tower and Titian House — Cadore Landscape — Entrance to the Ampezzo — The Four Dolomites of Ampezzo — Mr. Ball's Ascent of the Pelmo — Cortina and the Ghedinas — The Festa— A Tyrol 'Gavarnie' — Lago di Misurina and Val Grande page 382

Chapter XV. The Crespena Joch And Cafr'le Country

From Cortina to Buchenstein — The Livinallongo — Finazzer's Inn- -The Castello— An Expedition concerted — We leave our Wives 'at Home' — Corfara and the Priests — Plan and the Englishman — Castle of Wolkenstein — The Lammergeier — The Jager' s Failures— The Crespena and its weird Sights— St. Leonhard and Evangelistas' Inn —Buchenstein again — Reception at Caprile— Sta. Lucia — Val Ombretta— Excursion to Val di Zoldo — Tourists at Caprile — The Fisher Girl of Alleghe — The Timber 'Leap' — Agordo ......... 409

Chapter XVI. Primiero

Agordo — The Path to Primiero — The Bonettis — The Valley of Primiero and Castello Pietra — The Dolomites of Primiero -Its Commerce and Curiosities — Its History — Storms Without and Within — Passage of the St. Martino Col — Hospice of Paneveggio — A Drowned Road — Predazzo — Vigo — The Sasso di Damm — The last Col aud the Porphyry Gorges — Botzen 440

Chapter XVII. Out-of-the-way Spots

Old Karnten again — Friesach and its Castles — St. Veit, the Old Court City Hoch Osterwitz — The Zollfeld and the Herzogstuhl — Virunum — The Maria Saal — Klagenfurt — The. Loibl Valleys — Villach and the Landskron — Night Ascent of the Dobratsch — The View at Sunrise— Last Visit to the Wulfenia — Passage of the ' Kirschbaumer ' — The Lessach Thai and Legend of Lukau — The Sexten Dolomites — Tai Cadore — Excursion to Brags— Forno and Signor Cercena — Belluno — Feltre and Primiero CONTENTS. XI i

Chapter XVIII. Physical Description Of The Dolomite Districts

Modern Conception of the Structure of the Alps — Position of the South- Eastern Limestone Zone — Its four included Groups — Relief of the Western Dolomite District — Its two great intersecting Ridges— Its four radiating Valleys — Porphyry Plateau — Tuff Plateau — Dolomite Plateau — Relief of the Carnian District — Its Lines of Depression — Its Series of Basins — The Canal Socchieve — The Sauris Basin — Relief of the Ampezzo District — List of its intersecting Lines of Elevation and Depression — Features of the Julian Alps and Karawanken — Geology of the Western Dolomite District — Richthofen's Work — Table of Trias Beds of South- Eastern Tyrol — Historical-Topographical Description of them — Features of the extinct Craters of the Upper Fassa and Predazzo— Richthofen's Coral-Reef Theory of the Origin of the Western Dolomites — Origin of Dolomite as a Mineral — Biography of M. Dolomieu . . page LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS. PAGE Authors' Route Map To face 1 (.J-eological Map of part of South-Eastern Tyrol ,517 CHKOMO-LITHOGRAPHS By Messrs. M. and N. Hash art. I. Monte Civita, with Lake and Village of Alleghe . . . Frontispiece. II. The Rosengarten, from the Sasso di Damm .... To fare page III. Lang-Kofel and Platt Kogel, from the Seisser Alp ... ,, 113 IV. The Sasso di Pelmo, from Monte Zucco ,, 305 V. 'Cirque' of the Croda Malcora, near Cortina .... ., 40fi VI. Castello Pietra, near Primiero „ 447 ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD By Mu. E. Whymper. 1. Heraldic Dolomite On title-page 'I. Lienz Dolomites 3-t 3. Marmolata, from bhe Sasso di Damm . . 70 4. The Schlern, and Ratzes P.ith-House 107 The Dolomites of Campitello . ... 130 o. Mnnte Civita and Caprile 136 7. Sasso di Pelmo, from Santa Lucia 14s! 8. Cortina 9, Monte Cristallo and the Dliren See 1.19 10.

The Drei Schuster It;-; 11. The Kollin Kofel 18r, 12. The Mangert and Sir Humphry Davy'? Lake 245 13. Shrine and Hay-rack, near Lengenfeld ...,..., LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE 14. Lake of Veldes and Bishop of Brixen's Schloss 267 1 ".. Styrian Barn 302 16. The Dragon of Klagenfurt 337 17. Val Auronzo, the Drei Zinnen in the distance 389 18. Titian's House 391 19. Monte Antelao, from St. Vito 397 20. The Castello, near Andraz 415 21. The Sella Plateau, from Santa Maria 418 22. Agordo and the Palle di St. Lncano 442 23. Count Welsperg's Jagd-Schloss 448 24. Stone Chair of the Dukes of Carinthia 483 25. The Sex-ten Thai 503 26. Titian's Tower 505 27. ecological Section of the extinct Crater of Predazzo

Introduction

. Several years ago, when planning an excursion to Tyrol, we were struck by the following passages in ' Murray's Handbook : ' — ' Here the traveller obtains a view of the Dolomite Mountains. They are unlike any other mountains, and are to be seen nowhere else among the Alps. They arrest the attention by the singularity and pic turesqueness of their forms, by their sharp peaks or horns, sometimes rising up in pinnacles and obelisks, at others extending in serrated ridges, teethed like the jaw of an alligator ; now fencing in the valley with an escarped precipice many thousand feet high, and often cleft with numerous fissures, all running vertically. They are per fectly barren, destitute of vegetation of any sort, and usually of a light yellow or whitish colour." . And again : ' They,' the Dolomites, ' form a striking contrast to all other mountains in their dazzling white ness, in their barren sterility. . . .

Sometimes they take the appearance of towers and obelisks divided from one another by cracks some thousand feet deep ; at others, the points are so numerous and slender that they put one in mind of a bundle of bayonets or sword-blades. Alto gether they impart an air of novelty and sublime grandeur

INTRODUCTION.

. to the scene, which can only be appreciated by those who have viewed it.' * Our curiosity was excited by these descriptions, yet we did not at that time think of making the district referred to a special object of the journey. Our purpose was to visit the more frequented parts of Tyrol, but we arranged a route which might perhaps afford a glimpse of those singular mountains. We accomplished that journey in 1856, and, in the, earlier portion of this volume, have told how we then first saw the Dolomites. In 1858, some of our party, returning from Venice, directed their course through Tyrol by the Ampezzo road, then, and even now, very little traversed. It intersects a principal portion of the Dolomite region, but offers little more than intimations of the extraordinary scenery en closed in the valleys, or displayed from the heights on either hand.

These two journeys convinced us there was much to see among the Dolomites, and in 1860 Mr. Churchill undertook to combine with botanical purposes a brief preliminary survey of the district. It was the first time for some years that we had been prevented from arranging our usual summer .travelling party, but since circumstances so ruled it, there was some consolation in knowing that the way was being prepared, and information obtained, for the united expedition proposed for the following year. The tour thus concerted, and in which all again had the happiness of joining, took place in the unexampled summer of 1861. Its splendid weather afforded every advantage, and while exploring those wonderful valleys, the intention, rather vague at first, of describing what we saw for a larger circle than the home readers of * Southern Germany, pp. 329, 344.

OUR ROUTES. XVII our letters, took definite shape, and we used sketch-book and note-book with that view. We were encouraged to this no less by the peculiarity of the scenery, than by its singular seclusion from the tourist world. During eight weeks, and over a space of more than two hundred miles, we did not meet a solitary member of that restless frater nity — English or foreign — and in many places were the first English people that had been seen. In that journey we were tempted rather beyond the region of the Dolomites proper, into districts farther to the east, and scarcely less remarkable, as will be seen from our narrative. To the original scene of our researches, however, we determined to return another year, feeling, as learners do in other fields, more conscious of what there remained to know than content with what we had acquired.

A route was therefore laid down for the following season, which should utilise and supply the deficiencies of the previous excursions. In 1861 we had passed from west to east, and rather upon the northern side of the principal chain. In 1862 we went from east to west, and southward of our former line. These two journeys form the basis of our volume. In 1863 a final journey was undertaken to complete our knowledge of the district. The arrangement of the work is then as follows : — 1. First Glimpses of the Dolomites. A Tour in 185G. 2. An Excursion to Val Fassa in 1860. By G. C. Churchill. 3. A Tour through South Tyrol, Carinthia, and Carniola, in 1801. 4. A Tour through Carinthia, Friuli, and the Venetian Alps in 1862. 5. Out-of-the-way Spots. A Supplementary Journey in 1863. 6. A Physical Description of the Dolomite Region. It will be seen that different hands have been engaged in the composition of the work. Where not otherwise .1

INTRODUCTION.

. specified, the narratives are from the pen of the first named of the authors on the title-page. Mr. Churchill contributes the account of his own solitary excursion, and the Physical Description at the end. The earlier portions of the 1862 narrative, referring to parts of Carinthia not strictly connected with our subject, are extracted from the letters of A . Of the travellers themselves it may be well to say a little more. They were two holiday-making Englishmen, each accompanied by his wife. This association necessarily affects the character of the narrative. ' Ah ! ' said Herr Imseng, the climbing cure of Saas, to a friend of ours, ' you have your mother with you ; when you come again, leave her at home, and then we can do something.' English ladies — mothers or no — have since then performed exploits which should modify the cure's opinion.

Nevertheless, we must at once admit that ours is not a story of Alpine adventure. We were not accoutred with hatchet and rope, and cannot boast of perilous ascents, or of spending our nights in sleeping-bags. If such feats are necessary to doing something — then we did nothing. Let it be observed, however, that the Dolomites are not particularly adapted for climbers — as an experienced Alpine Club-man who made the trial confessed, expressing much disgust at their evil qualities in this respect ; — and, further, that the peculiar scenery of these mountains can, as we beUeve, be fully appreciated, and their conformation understood, without such extraordinary efforts ; and we have, perhaps, sufficient justification for not at tempting them. S and A were therefore by no means 'impedi menta' in such excursions as ours.

On the contrary, we owe to them many pleasant incidents of travel, and in troductions to peasant hearts and homes we should not OURSELVES. XIX otherwise have obtained. Had they condescended to tell all the story themselves, we cannot doubt it would have been found more amusing. We four, then, made the party. Churchill has a vasculum swung at his back, and a press-book under his arm ; while, if en route, a bulky leather-case, the depot of his treasures, is a marked object among the baggage. His friend carries sketching apparatus, and fixes his three legged stool wherever a subject tempts, and time and weather, too often very ungracious, will allow. A , armed with brush and pencil, attacks quaint costumes and pretty faces. S is constituted reader of the party, au important office not only on wet days within doors, but when the sketchers are busy abroad.

Our baggage — a leather bag apiece, and a couple of knapsacks, with the case already mentioned — can all he carried on one stout horse or mule, though more often it is divided among three or four men ; with whom, filing up the mountain side, we make a respectable caravan. The tourist alpenstock became far too elegant an appendage for our use. Umbrellas, which will serve for walking-sticks or protection from the sun, and light cloaks strapped to the waist, form our travelling-gear. If need arises, sturdy staves are borrowed for the occasion. Our equipment is therefore very simple, lightness of carriage being a main consideration. After the first journey, two small tea-pots were added, and found extremely useful. Having so far introduced ourselves, we venture to offer our services to any who may desire to be conducted to the Dolomite valleys.

We shall be happy if, in retracing pleasant days of travel, we can make the record of them agreeable to others, and by aid of pen and pencil place before them some dim reflection of those scenes of grandeur. We shall be glad also if we can interest any XX

INTRODUCTION.

. of our readers in the curious geological questions attach ii : to the Dolomite district, and, by presenting some of tho leading facts and differing theories, secure a permanent value for the volume. Nor, although cherishing the idea of seclusion, shall we grudge to a few select and kindred spirits the pleasure of verifying our descriptions by a personal visit, especially if they feel thereby the more indebted to us for showing the way. But we deprecate the intrusion of the noisy, idle stream of tourists, who, indeed, are little likely to turn aside from the substantial comforts of the high road. rVlAP [W TillŒ KA.STN-.UN AJLPS, limits of 1861. Dt 1862. Knglish Mili-s. ' — ' — ' — L — ' — ' — ' — ' — . — . — s '■ : 1 . ] i) lo ::,. M, u. SllOWINC. THE ROUTES I'OLLOWK!) UY TIIK AUTHORS. ltongma/\ FIEST GLIMPSES OF THE DOLOMITES. 1856. B

Chapter I. From The

DAN0BE TO THE DRAVE. The Lake of Hallstadt — Goldsmith in Carinthia — Hof and Bad Gastein — Ascent of the Gamskar Kogel — Bochstein and bad Weather — The extortionate Farmer — The Death Pictures and Chalets of Nassfeld — Cloud and Snow — The Tauernhaus, and De scent upon Malnitz. — Ober Villach. — The Pedlar Bedroom. — Wink lern and a glimpse of Dolomite. Onward, where the rude Carinthian boor Against the houseless stranger shuts the door. Few people, perhaps, attach any very distinct geographical idea to the above familiar quotation from Goldsmith. We readily confess to a time when we were in that predicament ourselves. Some years ago, we saw ' Nach Karnthen ' on a sign-post, and that naturally brought with it some enlightenment. Afterwards we learnt a httle more as from the summit of the Gamskar Kogel, in Salzburg, we surveyed the dark serrated hne of the Noric Alps, whfch forms its northern boundary ; at last, having crossed that barrier by the Pass of Nass feld, behind Gastein, we found ourselves in Carinthia itself.

How far the Carinthian boor has improved in his manners since Goldsmith with a travel-worn flute stood at his door, our story will declare ; and it will soon be seen how far that first journey was connected with our sub sequent explorations of the Dolomites. It was the summer of 1856. We had left the Danube, with its rapids and gloomy woods, and far-sweeping B mountains at Linz, travelling southward by Gmunden and Ischl, till we reached Hallstadt, that little lake town, disturbed by no sound of wheels, on a roadless shore. Here was our first rest. Here, returning one evening at dusk down the staircased footpaths — there are no other — we happened upon an incident well suited to the scene. The lake was full of boats gliding from the deep shadows of the mountains towards a large gondola, occupied by peasant musicians, attired, hke everyone else, in conical cockaded hats, and ornamented belts and breeches.

They were giving a serenade in honour of a visit from the director of the mines : and the effect was so exquisitely scenic, that one might, have expected the dark precipices soon to fall softly asunder, and disclose a bevy of pink petticoated damsels tripping out for the ballet. The performance ended about ten o'clock with the Austrian National Anthem ; and then the crowd of boats separated —some passing back into the shadows — some disappearing along the glistening ripples of the moonlit water. Crossing by Abtenau through solitary gorges of rock and forest into the main south road from Salzburg, we waited for the next morning's diligence at Golling, a small town, full of wagons and wagoners — and merry wagoners too, for from numerous deep-arched inns, there was noise of music and of stamping feet all night long.

As a party of four, we easily obtained a ' separat wagen,' or supplementary carriage — one among seven or eight of all sorts and sizes accompanying the diligence— for the baths of Gastein. In this motley procession of vehicles we descended into the tremendous forest-filled gulf which forms the grandeur of the Pass of Luegg, where white faces of masonry in the woods, and em brasures in rocky buttresses, show that Austria keeps guard against invasion. The town of Werfen succeeds GASTEIN. 5 after a few miles, picturesquely perched on a rock in the midst of the valley, with fine backward views of the Tannen Gebirge, a lofty implacable barrier of limestone, whose turret ridges command the landscape in every direction. At St. Johann everybody dined ; and at Lend, the next post station, turning abruptly to the left out of the valley of the Salza, we ascended a pass, the Klamm, offering a fair resemblance to the Via Mala.

By evening light a wide and verdant basin opened to view, closed at the farther end by that wall of Alps towards which our day's journey of about fifty miles had been conducting us. The Carinthian valleys lay beyond ; but there was no passage to them but by foot or horse-paths over the glacier-glistening ridges. Bad Gastein is at the extremity of the cut de sac: short of it by five miles is the old mining town of Hof Gastein ; and we had contemplated a stroke of shrewdness in securing quarters there at a distance from the gay centre of attraction, though near enough for its scenery, and better situated for the ascent of the Gamskar, a mountain from whose top we hoped to survey the borders of our promised laud. Unexpectedly, even Hof Gastein was full : a small inn was the only resource ; and our wives, who did not yet know what ' roughing it ' was, received their first lesson in that useful acquirement.

Carinthia, or Karnthen as it is called in German, is a mountain-girdled land. The high range now in front of us formed the eastern limb of that great dividing chain which, stretching longitudinally through Switzerland and Tyrol, takes in the latter country the name of the Noric Alps. They guard Carinthia on the north ; and on the south two ranges of almost equal importance, the Carnic and the Karavanken, separate it respectively from Ve netia and Carniola. Two or three subordinate ridges divide it lengthways, and render it altogether mountainous in character. The long valley of the Drave intersects the province, and is a leading Mature in its geography ; but Klagenfurt, the capital, rather singularly, occupies a situation apart, in a plain of its own, northward of the Drave valley, but nearly in the centre of the country.

Speaking generally, Carinthia lies directly north of the Gulf of Trieste, and between Tyrol and Hungary, though sepa rated from the latter country by a portion of Styria. It is immediately enclosed by Salzburg and Styria on the north, by Venetia and Carniola on the south, and by Tyrol and Styria on the west and east. How came Goldsmith — in days before travelling was invented, as we are apt to think, except as regarded the ' Grand Tour,' and when mountains were thought of only as a horror or a plague — how came Goldsmith to visit so remote and mountain-guarded a region ? To us its seclusion was an irresistible attraction ; but the surrounding countries were not then thronged with his countrymen, and he could have found seclusion at far less cost of shoe leather. We may find some explanation in the fact that Carinthia was at that period more on a footing with the rest of the empire.

All roads were alike then, and those of Carinthia therefore not worse than others, while the chief events of its history were of nearer interest then than now. People had not forgotten the fearful struggles of Germany with the Turks, in the latest of which Eugene, the friend of Marlborough, had obtained so much renown ; and the battle of Villach, in 1492, when the Carinthian nobles defeated them with great slaughter, would be more notable to the students of history in the eighteenth than in the nineteenth century. So to Gold smith, though it led him ' onward ' far, Carinthia might have been as much known as Tyrol is to us, and not less THE TWO PASSES. 7 accessible, though it is scarcely probable that he took the mountain path by which we entered the country. We arrived at Hof Gastein on a Tuesday evening, August 19, and it was necessary to gather information, and arrange plans for our future progress.

Some of us were then new to mountain travelbng — I smile as I think of their ample experience since — and the others found it perplexing to estimate the real amount of difficulty in prospect. We were deprived of the abundant aids which surround the traveller in Switzerland and other frequented routes, in the shape of guides, horses, side-saddles, &c, and the people knew nothing of the capabilities of English women when they choose to be adventurous. Moreover, our stock of German at that time was very limited, and now that discussion and negotiation were required, our only resource was the marker of an adjoining billiard table, and ex-waiter from Vienna, who by virtue of a Uttle French acted as interpreter, but whose erratic visits, and disjointed and careless pieces of information, were very unsatisfactory. 'Two rather difficult Alpine passes,' says Murray, 'lead from the valley of Gastein into Carinthia, — the Malnitzer Tauern, and the Pass of Kauris.' How we scanned and discussed that epithet of ' difficult,' and the details which should explain it !