Voyages and travels in the years 1809, 1810, and 1811; containing ... statistical, commercial and miscellaneous observations on Gibraltar, Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, Serigo and Turkey

Preface

. X HIS Work is part of a design which I had formed, of givingsuch an account of the Countries connected with the Mediterranean, as would tend to familiarise them to the British Public. It will appear sufficiently evident, in many places, that a great part has been printed from the original Notes. I am not aware that this will be regarded as a fault, although it may expose me to the animadversions of verbal criticism. But I ought to apologise for publishing, unamplified, a number of remarks, which were noted down, as hints for dissertations. I was apprehensive that my Book would have been enlarged, without being augmented with information ; and I would rather that it were thought defective in disquisition, than deficient in facts which suggest reflections. ,

PREFACE.

. I considered myself bound to be more minute, relative to the modes and circumstances of travelling, than, perhaps, may be deemed conformable to the title of the Book: — because the treatment which strangers receive, in any country, furnishes a topic connected with its domestic economy, and that kind of know ledge which is useful to the Merchant and Politician, as well as amusing to the general Reader. Classical inquiries formed no part of the objects of my journeys. My obscure gropings, therefore, at the elucidation of ancient mythology, should be received with indulgence. They may amuse the learned ; and they serve to vary the narrative to the less accu rate reader. I trust that the papers in the Appendix will not be regarded as inserted to swell the volume. The statement of the productions of Sicily was not made without industrious inquiry.

Nor will the utility of the other two papers, relative to that island, be dis puted. The Eclogue I hesitated about inserting. It was written at Cape Passero, under a lively impression of the peculiarities of the Sicilian peasantry. What-

PREFACE.

. V ever may be the poetical defects, it will, probably, not be found incorrect as a delineation. The docu ments relative to the projects of the French are more than curious ; and those explanatory of the pro cesses of dying Turkey red, though not new, will have their use, from being exhibited together. The political opinions, occasionally introduced, have not been delivered without reflection. The importance of Malta to this country, first impressed on the public mind by the Star newspaper, will be en forced by the incidental notices in the following pages. Reflecting', in that island, on the influence of a free press over the operations of states, I was in duced to interweave those remarks, in the text, which occurred to me, from seeing so central a station neg lected to be made a fulcrum to that powerful engine.

In the prosecution of the objects partly disclosed in this volume, I consider myself as under many obligations to several of our public officers. To Mr. Hill, our Envoy at the Court of Cagliari, I am indebted for much hospitality, and for a very ready offer, oh his part, to facilitate my views, had I under-

PREFACE.

. VI taken the tour of the island. To Mr. Smith, Secretary of Legation there, I am particularly obliged, for the willingness with which he assisted my inquiries. In deed, I esteem myself fortunate in having met with this very accomplished gentleman. In Palermo, Mr. Fagan, the Consul General, rendered me all the assistance I could desire ; and I cannot omit here to mention the kindness of Signor Stirlingi, the Consul at Girgenti. For the privilege of wearing a British epaulet, this man executes all the drudgery attendant on the Malta packets, that land and receive the ambas sador's dispatches, and the letters ofthe merchants and of the army. That such useful and necessary service should be unrequited, is a disgrace to the British nation. Mr. Canning, in Constantinople, evinced a very willing disposition to promote my objects, as far as his own influence extended ; but the influence of the British minister is, in that capital, contracted by the strange importance allowed to the foreigners connected with the mission. I shall ever remember, with pleasure, the singular purity of his mind, contrasted with the cha racter of the diplomatic offal in the Ottoman metro-

PREFACE.

. VII polis. Should the book reach his hands, he will dis criminate the respect that is paid from a motive which had not its origin in considerations for his public situ ation, nor in return for any favours proposed or received. The incidents of my first voyage to Greece will form a work by itself, and will afford me an oppor tunity of mentioning the names of other gentlemen from whom I received civilities. London, lst January l8l2. CONTENTS. THE Mediterranean described, 1 GIBRALTAR, 3. SARDINIA. Cagliari, 7. Dress of the Inhabitants, 8. State of society, 8. Provincial divisions, 9. Laws, 10. State of the judges, 10. Character of the Sards, 10. System of public education for the poor, 11. Commercial regulations, 12. Revenue and paper-money, 12. Population, 13. Productions, 13. Manufactures, 14.

Politico-commercial reflections, 14. SICILY. Antiquities of Agrigentum, 16. Girgenti, 17. A journey, 18. Appearance of tbe peasantry, 19. View of Palermo, 19. Palermo. — General Appearance, 20. Tin wares, 21. Muslins, &c. 21 Women the Weavers, 21. Iron beds, 21. Jesuits, 22. Motives which have led to their restoration, 24. The clergy, 25. The poor, 26. Luxuries, 27. Population, 28. Improvement of the country, 29. Gaming, 30. Time and Bells, 31. Amusements, 3'3. The theatres, 33. The tragedies of Alfieri, 35. Nobility, 36. Source of discontents, 39. Manner of life, 40. Trade, 41. An improvisatore, 44. Booksellers, 46. Quail-shooting, 47. St. Rosalia, 47. Academy of painting, 49. Barbers' signs, 50. Mode of Sepulture, 50. Marina, 51. The court, 5 1 . b CONTENTS. X Mont Reale, 57. Lasala, 58.

Alcamo, 59. Segista, 60. Agriculture, 60. Trapani, 60. Erranti, the painter, 61. A dreadful Oratory, 62. Commerce, 08. Opera performers, 64. Literature, 65. Marsala, 67. Mazzara, 68. A cadavery, 68. Sciacca, 69. Ruins of Salinuntum, 69. A toll, 70. Appearance of Sciacca, 71. Trade, 71. Volunteers, 72. Salvator Rosa, 72. St. Makgaritta, 72. Lodged in a Convent, 73. Political Notions of the Peasantry, 74. The ancient Bacchanalians, 74. A wine-press, 75. Utility of Saints, 75. Greek villages, 76. A Journey, 76. Termini, 76. Stage-coach, 76. Barbers' poles, 77. Cefalu, 77. An admirable monument, 78. Lepers, 79. Pinale, 80. St. Stephano, 80. The process of pressing olive-oil, SO. St. Marco, 81. Pati, 82. Lodged in a Convent, 82. Barcelona, 88. Etruscan ware, 83. Fundacco Nuova, 83. Messina, 84.

Flourishing appearance of the town, 85. The mal-administration of Justice, 85. Reading-rooms, 85. The Pharo wine, 86. Theatre, 86. Exposure of the dead, 87. Fishing for Stones, 87. Ladies better understood than described, 88. Crusaders, 88. Toarmini, 88. A cicerone, 89. Theatre, 89. Naumachia, 90. Population, 90. Etna, 90. One of the phenomena of the mountain, 90. Lava, 91. The rape of Proserpine, 91. Alterations in the works of Homer, 91. A cyclops and Lord Nelson, 92. Catania, 92. The Benedictine monastery, 93. The museum-keeper, 93. The organ, 93. Public library, 94. Antiquities, 94. Mode of building, 95. The British soldiers commit idolatry, 95. Priests and troops, 95. The British nation pays the friars of Catania, 95. Population, 95. The manufactures, 96. Lentini, 96. Giarretta, river where the amber is found, 97.

Insects in amber commonly artificial, 97. Inn, 98. Catacombs, 98. Syracuse. Approach to the fortress, 98. Curious contrivance in the ancient fortifications, 99. Theatre and amphitheatre, 99. The ancient tragedies recited with music, 100. The ear of Dionysius, 100. The latomies, 100. CONTENTS. XI The tombs, 101. The Venus, 101. Catacombs, 102. The harbour, 102. Cause of the necessity of foreign troops in Sicily, 102. Poor gentlefolk, 103. Mr. Leckie, 103. Substitute for Gunpowder, 103. Cape Passero. Food of the peasantry, 104. Tunny Fishery, 104. A Sicilian Mrs. Maclarty, 105. The author gives a sigh, 105. A hen put to death, 106. Education of the peasantry, 106. A State Prison, 107. Punishments, 108. History, 109. Constitution, 112. Sicilian Character, 113< MALTA. Valetta, 1 16. Inn, 117. Monopoly of grain, 117.

Characteristics, 118. Publications, 120. Aspect of the country, 121. Mode of travelling, 122. Kitchens, 123. Water, 123. Entertainments, 124. Public buildings and institutions, 124. Farming, 126. The privilege of Sanctuary, 127. History, 129. Trade, 130. SERIGO. Avlemana, 1 37. The vengeance of the gods on the vessel with Lord Elgin's marbles, 138. Situation of the island, 139. Statistical account, 139. The great grotto, 142. Pœerio, the collective murderer, 143. Extraordinary scorpions, 144. History, 144. The worship of Venus, 145. Explanation of -the fable of Venus rising from the sea, 146. A king a bad poet, 146. CONTENTS. TURKEY. Maina, 147. Character of the people, 148. Conquest by the Turks, 14S. Marathonesi, 149. Scenes in the castle, 150. State of the women, 151. Appearance of the chieftain, 151.

An alarm, 152. Bathi, 153. Appearance of the Bay, 154. The castle of Antonbey, 154. Presence chamber of the Prince, 155. Statue of Lycurgus, 156. The princess asleep, 156. Banquet, 156. A French Project, 157. A Journey, 158. Mistra, 160. Our host, 161. Appearance of the town, 16. Dine with the archbishop, 162. Meletto, the archbishop of Athens', compliment to the Scottish nation, 163. The laws of Lycurgus, articles of war, 165. Decline of the silk produce, 1 66. We give a ball and supper to the Spartan Ephori, 166. Tripolizza, 167. Lodge with a Frenchman, 168. The attention of the Kaimakan to travellers, 168. Character of Vilhi Pashaw, 168. Argos, 170. The Lernian Lake, 170. Explanation ofthe labour of Hercules, in killing the hydra, 170. The fountain of Eracinos, 171. History of silk-manufactures, 171.

Uproar in Argos on our account, 172. Little worth notice at Argos, 174. Corinth, 174. Ruins of Mycenæ, 174. Recollections at Corinth, 175. A journey, 177. Lodge in the Dervent of the Isthmus, 177. Megara, 177. The fable of the monster Sciron explained, 178. Eleusis, 178. Rape of Proserpine, 179. Recollections on seeing Salamis, 179. The French want origiginality, 180. Athens, 184. Parochial diversions, 184. Schools, 184. Provision for the Poor, 185. Slaves, 185. Trade, 185. Temple of Jupiter Olympus, 185. The Temple of Minerva, 186. Fable of Minerva explained, 187. The temple of Theseus, 187. Pericles and Cimon, 187. Monument of Lysicrates, 188. Appearance of the ancient city, 189. The dancing Dervishes, 190. The death of Socrates, 191. Bigotry of philosophers, 191. History, 192. CONTENTS.

XIII Marathon, 194. Reflections relative to the battle, 195. Dramis, 196. Effects of Ali Pashaw's extortions, 197 Negropont, 198. Irregularity of the tides, 199. Criminality of the inhabitants, 199. Thebes, 200. Recollections, 201. Fable of Bacchus considered, 202. Œdipus, 203. Turkish judicature, 203. Export articles, 203. A public clock, 204. Livadia, 204. Cheronea, 205. Parnassus, 206. Delphi, 206. The Castalian spring, 207 Turco Cori, 207. Thermopylæ, 209. Nearly immortalized in the pass, 209. Mola, 210. Leonidas, 210. A legendary tale, 210. Zeitun, 211. The ancient Heraclia, 212. Chiron the centaur, 212. Bad air, 212. Phersela, 213. March of a Turkish army, 213. Plain of Pharsalia, 213. Shameless conduct of the surgeons of Thaumacos, 214. Reflections on the plain of Pharsalia, 214. A Journey, 215.

Lodged with a Moor, 216. Larissa, 217. A custom-house harpy, 217. Emigrations of the inhabitants, 219. Daphne and Apollo, 220. The Earls of Northumberland descended from a bear, 220. The Vale of Tempe', 220. The wars of the giants, 221. Turkish cavalry, 222. A Journey, 222. Turkish oppression, 223. Wade through a lake, 224. Grecian superstition, 225. A Turkish recruit, 225. Salonika, 225. State of the Jews here, 226. Government of the city, 227. Antiquities and curiosities, 228. The massacre in the circus, 230. Observations on the ecclesiastical affairs, 231. History, 232. Trade, 233. State of society, 235. Horrible effluvia from graves, 236. Orfano, 236. Customs of the Turks, 239. Prevosto, 240. CONTENTS. Yenigæ, 241. Cavallo, 242. Meet with a Pashaw from Asia, 242. Jumergena, 243. Ferri, 244.

An adventurous ride, 244. Kassah, 247. The late Hassan, Captain Pashaw, 248 Rhodosto, 249. Selivria, 250. Deserters from the army, 251. A very sensible soldier, 251. Approach to Constantinople, 252. Constantinople, 253. Population, 254. Appearance of the city, 255. Seraglios, 256. Buildings, 258. Schools, 260. Hospitals, 261. The plague, 263. Barracks, 265. The British palace, 265. Bazars, 266. Antiquities, 269. Arts and Manufactures, 272. Coffee-houses, 276. Women, 277. Police, 280. Society, 2Sl. The Sultan, 283. Janizaries, 287. British Legation, 289. The Bosphorus, 291. Nicomedia, 292. A Turkish packet, 293. Kirpi, 293. State of the adjacent country, 294. Black Sea, 295. Hagi-Ku, 296. Lodge with the Bey, 296. Manufactures in Nicomedia, 298. Trade. A French commercial project, 299. State of commerce at Constanti- • nople, 300.

History of Constantinople, 301 A Journey, 308. Religious casts in Turkey, 310.' Benevolence of several old Turks, 312. Adrianople, 313. Monuments of a British and a Turkish minister, 315. State of society, 318. Philippopoli. A plundering Turk, 321. Condition ofthe peasantry, 322. A curious custom of the Turks towards deceased friends, 323. The bishop, 324. A physician, 324. Earthquakes, 325. Bazerjeek, 326. Lodge with the Bey, 327. Desjmption of the town, 328. A Journey, 328. Plundered village, 329. Reflections on the state of Turkey, 330. A rustic magistrate, 330. The pass between mount Rhodope and Hæmus, 331. Yengi-Khan, 331. Biographical Sketch of the Bishop of Sophia, 332. CONTENTS. XV The Turkish Army, 335. A vizier's head-quarters, 336. Political notes, 338. Description of Sophia, 339.

A Journey, 340. Ascend Mount Hæmus, 341. View from the heights, 342. Improvement in the profession of robbery, 344. Encounter in the forest, 344. Belkofsa, 345. Kaaralom, 347. A Pashaw, much ado about nothing, 347. Widdin, 354. The tardy operations of the Russians accounted for, 356. State of the Servians, 358. Notes relative to the art of war, 358. Political notes, 360. Return to Constantinople, 361. A thaw, 361. A bride, 362. Alba,- nians, 365. A Voyage, 366. The Hellespont, 367. Troy, 367 Tenedos, 368. Scio, 369. Mode of educating the peasantry in Scio, 371 Smyrna, 372. Trade, 373. Effects of Malta on our Levant trade, 374. A Voyage, 375. A Turk speculates with six eggs, and breaks two, 375. Fishing grounds, 376. Idra, 376. Origin of the commercial state of the island, 377. Mode of paying the sailors, 377.

Mode of raising a capital, 378. Mode of indemnifying losses, 378. Character of the Idriot sailors, 379. Description of the town, 379. " Churches, 379. Schools, 379. The poor, 380. Taxes, 380. Law and Customs, 380. A Journey, 381. Bee hives, 382. Misologio, 384. Fishery, 384. A fort, 385. Articles exported, 385. Political Reflections, 387. CONTENTS. XVI