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Italy and its inhabitants; an account of a tour in that country in 1816 and 1817

Jacques Augustin Galiffe · 1820 · Scanned text

90,444 words · about 6 h 20 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Jacques Augustin Galiffe
Language
English
Published
1820
Length
90,444 words · about 6 h 20 min
Sections
51 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (51)
  1. Chapter I under 1 min
  2. Chapter II under 1 min
  3. Chapter III under 1 min
  4. Chapter IV under 1 min
  5. Chapter V under 1 min
  6. Chapter VII under 1 min
  7. Chapter XIII under 1 min
  8. Chapter XIV under 1 min
  9. Chapter XV under 1 min
  10. Chapter XVI under 1 min
  11. Chapter XVII under 1 min
  12. Chapter XVIII under 1 min
  13. Chapter XIX under 1 min
  14. Chapter XX under 1 min
  15. Chapter XXI under 1 min
  16. Chapter XXII about 1 min
  17. Chapter XXIV under 1 min
  18. Chapter XXV under 1 min
  19. Chapter XXVI under 1 min
  20. Chapter XXVII under 1 min
  21. Chapter XXVIII under 1 min
  22. Chapter XXIX under 1 min
  23. Chapter XXX under 1 min
  24. Chapter I about 10 min
  25. Chapter II about 18 min
  26. Chapter IV about 8 min
  27. Chapter V about 12 min
  28. Chapter VI about 25 min
  29. Chapter VIII about 13 min
  30. Chapter IX about 9 min
  31. Chapter X about 12 min
  32. Chapter XI about 13 min
  33. Chapter XII about 12 min
  34. Chapter XIII about 18 min
  35. Chapter XIV about 15 min
  36. Chapter XV about 9 min
  37. Chapter XVI about 15 min
  38. Chapter XVII about 10 min
  39. Chapter XVIII about 13 min
  40. Chapter XIX about 12 min
  41. Chapter XX about 18 min
  42. Chapter XXI about 12 min
  43. Chapter XXII about 11 min
  44. Chapter XXIII about 16 min
  45. Chapter XXIV about 15 min
  46. Chapter XXV about 18 min
  47. Chapter XXVI about 14 min
  48. Chapter XXVII about 12 min
  49. Chapter XXVIII about 9 min
  50. Chapter XXIX about 9 min
  51. Chapter XXX about 17 min

Continue:

Chapter I

Character of the modern Romans. — Causes of their re • vengeful Disposition ; and Instance of its Exer cise — Their national Pride unextinguished by their natural Degradation — Anecdote of filial and pater nal Affection — Near Affinity of Cowardice and Cruelty — Anecdote of Dieci Nove the Bandit — The Ruspoli Coffee-house

Chapter II

Character of Cardinal Pacca, the Governor of Rome — Police — Criminals — Punishments— Liberality of the Pope's Prime Minister, Cardinal Gonsalvi — VI CONTENTS. Page 26 Miracles ascribed to the present Pope — Asylums for Murderers 14

Chapter III

Religious Ceremonies of the Romish Church — Assembly of Cardinals in the Sixtine Chapel — Celebration of Christmas at Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Ma lia d'Ara-Celi — Benediction of Horses — Nunnery — Fondness of the Romans for Fennel Roots . ' .

Chapter IV

Coldness of the Atmosphere in the Streets of Rome — Fountains — The Minerva Library — Studio of M. Pierantoni — Statement of some Circumstances connected with the purchase of " the Stuart Papers" from the Executor of Cardinal York 38

Chapter V

Departure from Rome; and Journey to Naples through Albano, La Riccia, Velletri, Terracina, and Mola di Gaeta — Indications ofthe Approach to Naples — Activity and Bustle of the People— The Beggars of Naples — Lazzironi — Beauty of the Situation VI Page 64 CONTENTS. and Deliciousness of the Climate — Hotels and Lodgings 49

Chapter VI

Neapolitan Theatres and Performances — San Carlo — Teatro Nuovo — Dei Fiorentini — La Fenice — Dei Ragazzi — Description of a religious Puppet-show

Chapter VII

Grotto of Pausilippo — Digression on the Inaccuracies of " Corinna," and Vindication of Italian Females — Madame de Stael — Virgil's Tomb — Church of San Nazario — Herculaneum — Museum and Palace of Portici — Murat and his Wife — Anecdote of the latter, and of her Appropriation of a Collection of Ancient Medals 79

Chapter XIII

Naples ; Ice and Maccaroni Shops— Santa Lucia De parture of Mr. and Mrs. F .—Industry of certain Female Tourists— Neapolitan Fishermen Departure of N-e — General Character and CONTENTS. IX IJage Anecdotes of the Neapolitan Lazzaroni — Peculiar Depravity of the Class immediately above them, who represent the highest Classes to be still worse than themselves — Moral Effects upon the Inhabitants of Naples, of the tremendous Spectacle afforded by Vesuvius 171

Chapter XIV

Further Account of the Lazzaroni, and of their Amuse ments — Publick Readers — Mountebanks and Pup pet-shows — Gaming — The Neapolitans not a musical People — Instances of their want of Ear in the Discrimination of Sounds — Dialect 193 '

Chapter XV

Books in the Neapolitan Dialect — Personal appearance of the Neapolitans — Celebration of Easter—Con vent of St. Anthony of Tarsia — Incivility of the Shopkeepers at Naples — Trick of a Lazzarone Beggar — Severity of the Climate in the Month of May 211

Chapter XVI

Second Visit to La Cava for genealogical Researches— X CONTENTS. Page Fondness of the Author for this Pursuit — Particulars of the Journey from Naples — Lodgings and Mode of Living at Corpo di Cava— Description of the Archives — Elucidation of an obscure Point in the succession of the Princes of Salerno . . . . 223

Chapter XVII

Excursions in the Neighbourhood of Corpo di Cava, Vietri, Raita, Marino, Citarra — Arrival ofthe Prince and Princess Yablonofsky and their Party — Further Excursions — Santa Quaranta — Salerno — Its Castle and Cathedral — Church and Monastery of San Lorenzo — Curious Funeral Solemnity 242

Chapter XVIII

Theatre of Salerno— Criticism of Monti's Aristodemo —Excursion on the Eboli Road— Minor Lottery— Salernitan Women— Return to Corpo di Cava—Fes tivities on St. Urban's Day— Dancing and Singing : the Tarantella and the " Nightingale"— Departure from Corpo di Cava, and return to Naples— Inclemency of the Season ...."' CONTENTS. Page 271 286

Chapter XIX

Visits to the Marchioness of B e at Capo di Monte — Projected Philological Work of Don Luigi Marin cola, Archivist of La Cava — Instance of shocking Insensibility in Neapolitan Females — Grand Religi ous Procession — Interesting Night Excursion to Mount Vesuvius

Chapter XX

Naples; Reasons for visiting it in the Summer — Works of Art in the Palace ofthe Prince of San Severo — Opera of the " Orazi e Curiazi" — Remarks on the Musical Composers of Italy, France, and Germany — Vindication of Neapolitan Genius — Excursion to Sorrento — Officious Priest, and knavish Innkeeper

Chapter XXI

Sorrento — Gardens — Wretchedness of the People — Return to Naples — Review of Austrian Troops — Comparative Attachment of the. Neapolitans to the Intrusive and the Restored Dynasties — Remarks on the Feeling's and Condition of the Lazzaroni — Pie- CONTENTS. Tag* paratious to leave Naples — Trouble of Passports — Curious Instances of Trading Rivalry — Bardarelli the Bandit 308

Chapter XXII

Departure from Naples for Rome, by a Vetturino — Tra velling Companions — Capua — Insolent Waiter at Sta. Agatha — Custom-house at Fondi — Outrages of the Banditti, and Reflections on the Means of their Suppression— Portello — Terracina — Night Adven ture at the Inn — Pontine Marshes — Velletri — Genzano — Albano — Arrival at Rome 322 CHAPTER XX11I. Rome — Illumination of St. Peter's — Fireworks on the Castle of St. Angelo — Excursions to the Environs of Rome — Tivoli — Villa of Mecænas — Villa d'Este — Adrian's Villa — Frascati — Lake of Albano — Castel Gandolfo — Albano— Reputed Tombs of Ascanius, and of the Horatii and Curiatii — The Fochetti at Rome — Unwholesome influence of the Summer Air — Concluding Remarks on the Romans . . . CONTENTS. XIII Pase

Chapter XXIV

Departure from Rome — Terni — The Cascade — Strettura — Wretchedness ofthe Peasants of Umbria — Spoleto — Ancient Bridge — Civility of the Cavaliere F — Antiquities of Spoleto — Political History — Peru gia — Lake of Thrasymene — Ossaya — Camuscia — Arezzo — Incisa — Florence 355

Chapter XXV

Florence — Madame Imbert's Inn — Population, Architec ture, Streets, Ssr. — Music ; La Bordichiera — Pater nal Government of the Grand Duke — Florentine Women — Monuments in the Church of Santa Croce — Macchiavelli — Michael Angelo — Chapel de' Medici — Church of San Lorenzo — Religious Deportment of the Florentines — Gallery of Pictures and Statues — Artemisa Lami, of Pisa — Venus de' Medici — Niobe— Pictures in the Palazzo Pitti .... 374

Chapter XXVI

Florence^Climate— Fruits— Personal Character of the Florentines — Dialect— Anecdote— Theatres of Gol doni and la Pergola— Duport the Dancer— Romeo CONTENTS. Page and Juliet— Annual Burning of Flies on the Arno — Church of San Marco— Hall of San Giovanni— Ricci the Sculptor — Florence an agreeable Place of Residence—Florentine Money— The Medici ; and Digression on the Flattery so undeservedly bestowed on Louis XIV • 397

Chapter XXVII

Departure from Florence with the Vetturino Dardi— Le Maschere— Pietra Mala— Puggioli— Dispute with the Vetturino ; not adjusted by the Magistrates of Bologna— Works of Art in the Bolognese Academy — Curious Argument for the Truth of the Romish Creed— The Montagnola— Departure from Bologna — Modena — Reggio — Parma 414

Chapter XXVIII

Parma— The Palace, Academy, and Library— Farnese Theatre— Nunnery of St. Paul— Cathedral and Church della Steccata— Bridge over the Taro— Borgo San Donino— Piacenza— Casal Pusterlengo — Lodi— Maregnano— Belloni the Vetturino— Arrival at Milan .... .„„ CONTENTS. XV Page 451

Chapter XXIX

Milan — Attachment of the Author to this City and its Inhabitants ; and Reasons for curtailing his stay in Italy — Performances at La Scala — Voltaire's Maho met — Remarks on Grassini's style of Singing, and that of Madame Bulgakof of Moscow — Other Theatres at Milan — Continued Unpopularity of the Austrians — Caution against certain Devotees at Milan 440

Chapter XXX

Journey to Turin — San Martino Ticino — Novara — Ver celli — Turin — Theatres of Carignan and Angannes — Superga — Rivoli — Suza — Mount Cenis — San Mi. chele — Altered Habits of English Travellers — Savoy — Character of the Piedmontese and Savoyards — Chamberry — Rumilly in Albanese — Arrival in Geneva ITALY AND ITS INHABITANTS, In 1816—1817.

Chapter I

Character of the modern Romans — Causes of their revengeful Disposition ; and Instance of its Exercise — Their national Pride unextinguished by their natural Degradation — Anecdote of filial and paternal Affection — Near Affinity of Cowardice and Cruelty — Anecdote of Died Nove the Bandit — The Ruspoli Coffee-house. A MODERN Roman is, indeed, a singular being. Mr. Edward Bankes (whom I shall ever remember as a most agreeable companion of some very interesting walks among the Ruins of Rome,) described them by one of the best comparisons imaginable. He said they put him in mind of impressions of engravings from VOL. II. B worn-out plates. This is exactly true : they seem to be but half-finished ; and in most parts so faintly portrayed* that you can not conceive why nature perseveres in striking off more copies of them.

Where ever the strokes are deep and strong, you may be sure there is a blot. The Romans are a sullen, pale, spiritless, morose people. They hardly ever speak, except to beg alms, which when offered they absolutely tear from the giver, with out taking the trouble to thank him for them, and without showing the least satis faction at having obtained them. They are not at all like the Italians we had previously seen ; in fact, they are like no other living beings. The whole nation seems tired of its existence, and waiting for the sleep of death. Walking, seeing, hearing,— every act in short seems to be a painful exertion of exhausted mind and body. I never saw one of them smile. — I am now speaking of the native Romans ofthe lower classes, not of the temporary inhabitants of Rome, who come from various districts far and near, lo gain their livelihood in the city ; nor am I ■i MODERN ROMANS. speaking ofthe country people in the neighbourhood.

The latter, whose appearance is classical, graceful and picturesque, do seem to have some life and spirit remain ing. How different, alas ! from the me lancholy citizens of Rome ! Yet is there something in the sulky insolence of the Romans, — in their morose, ill natured looks, — that puts one strongly in mind of what they were in the days of their prosperity. Their manner is like the growl ing of an old mastiff, conscious at once of his former strength, and of the loss of his teeth. It is this galling sense of their im potence which makes them such dangerous enemies ; they brood over their injuries with a degree of malice of which they would not be capable, if they thought they could easily revenge them ; and as they are possessed of few ideas, that one passion which happens to take full possession of their minds festers sooner or later into a crime.

The following remarkable occurrence, which was reported to have recently taken place, will serve to illustrate what I have said. B2 Two men were proceeding to the last ex tremity in a quarrel, and one of them would undoubtedly have perished in the broil, if they had not been parted by a barber, who was perhaps a mutual friend of both of them. He went home, well pleased with the success of his interference, and never doubting that he had conciliated to himself the good-will of both parties. In the evening he had shut up his shop at the usual hour, and was retiring, when he heard some one calling his name from the street. Looking through a wicket to see who it could be, he received at the instant a blow from a hatchet, which cut through his collar and his neckcloth, and penetrated into his neck, so as very nearly to despatch him on the spot!

But though he was thought to be past all cure, he nevertheless recovered ; and, recovering, vowed vengeance in his turn on the person who had perpetrated this deed, and whom he had clearly recog nised as one of the two men whom he had parted. But the assassin had fled to a church, where he staid till some Cardinal or other, with whose cook, or laundress, he was connected, actually forced the barber, by all sorts of threats, to sign a forgive ness of the assassin. The latter, however, told an acquaintance of mine, from whom I had the anecdote, that he had made a mental reservation in signing the instru ment; and that he was firmly determined to perfect his revenge, though he had to wait fifty years for a fit opportunity ! There is less to be said about the classes which stand immediately above the lowest : the tradespeople are, in general, honest and civil, far from cheerful, but yet not sullen.

An active life is, undoubtedly, the best of all remedies against moral, as well as phy sical disorders; and this class affords a clear proof of the truth of this remark ; for there is no other way of accounting for the very striking difference in character, be tween them and the poorer classes. As to the higher ranks, they are in all countries so very nearly alike, that I had little expectation of finding them marked with any distinguishing features in Rome; but I was mistaken : they are remarkable for the same dull and dissatisfied appearance as the lowest ; are destitute of all spirit, and of all energy ; are incapable of pleasurable, as well as of painful exertions ; and are more like ghosts than beings of this world. There are some few exceptions, but those few are almost exclusively among the de scendants of mothers who were not natives of Rome.

Such as they are, the Romans are as sus ceptible of the grossest flattery as the most warlike nations of modern Europe ; and their dramatic authors cram them with the same nauseous food that the British shilling gallery, and the French paradis have so long been used to. I saw an opera called Quinto Fabio, in which the words " Roma invincibile sempre sard" were always encored with the most lively enthusiasm, and with such shouts that I could hardly believe my self to be in a Roman theatre. One of the most ridiculous specimens of bombast which I ever read, was a Roman account of a concert given by Catalani. But it is hardly possible to laugh at pretensions so extravagantly disproportioned to their presentcircumstances. They are like the efforts of a dying man to persuade himself, as well as others, that he is still full of life and health.

But bright contrasts are to be found to all that is absurd and unamiable in the general character of the lower classes at Rome. I met one day, in a walk on the Palatine Hill, (which I preferred to any other part of ancient Rome,) a young labourer, who offered me a piece of rosso antico. As I had no small coin about me, I told him I could not take it from him ; but he persisted in pressing it upon me, saying that it could not be worth more than a baiocco to me, and was of no manner of use to him. I accordingly took it, and some time afterwards having met the man again, I offered him half a paolo; he declared that he would not accept of more than a baiocco, and isl did not happen to have one, he would take no thing at all. I endeavoured to overcome his scruples, by letting him see that I had had a very neat little box cut out of his piece of red marble, which I told him I va lued exceedingly ; but, in spite of this ex- FILIAL AND PATERNAL AFFECTION. planation, it was very difficult to induce him lo accept the trifle I offered.

This dis interestedness gave me so high an opinion of him, that I thought we should be ex tremely fortunate if we could induce him to accompany us to Naples, where, we were told, it was utterly impossible to meet with an honest servant. I asked him if he would like to see that town. He replied, that his father would not let him go, and that he himself being accustomed to work from morning to night, did not care to go gadding about the world for the sake of gaining more than he wanted for the com mon necessaries of life. In my next walk on the Palatine (with Mr. Campbell, Lord Succoth's son,) we met the young man's father, an old peasant from Rimini, who was employed by the same gardener in driving a cart with vegetables to the mar ket, and I asked him if he would suffer his son to accompany me to Naples and back.

" Would you have me die ?" said the old man, with an expression of reproach in his countenance and his voice. Fancying his meaning to be, that his son supported him FILIAL AND PATERNAL AFFECTION. by his labour, I told him I would deposit one-half of the wages in his hands on leaving Rome, and that it would suffice to keep him very comfortably till our return. — " What is that to me," said he, " it is not " his money, it is himself that I wish to " keep under my shade. My heart would " quickly break if he left me. When he " stays from me only for an hour or two " later than usual, on holidays, I am as " unhappy and as disconsolate as if I had " already lost him entirely. One day, the " Austrians took him with his cart on the " Piazza Navona, and forced him to drive " it till within twenty miles of Naples.

Oh! " if you had seen my wife and myself! We " did nothing but weep during his ab " sence, and we had both of us well nigh " gone distracted with despair. Oh ! no, " no ! don't talk of parting us ! — But I am " sure he would not leave me V — We were delighted and interested beyond measure by this instance of affection ; and I hasten ed to assure the old man that his son had peremptorily rejected my proposals, and that my only object in thus renewing them THE ITALIAN CHARACTER. was to ascertain whether he loved his child as well as the latter loved him. These were Italians, and I wish some traits like this were introduced into those novels which treat their countrymen so ill. It would be an interesting pursuit to set on foot a regular series of observations and inquiries upon the causes which make the Italians sometimes so nobly good, and some times so atrociously bad.

It is a common remark, that opposite extremes approach each other; but the reason that they do so in this instance is more difficult to divine than in any other. I wish some one of our great philosophers would take up this question, and treat it with all the attention it de serves. Perhaps a principal cause of cruelty may be traced to original timidity ; as we often see that cowards, who have once been obliged to fight, become thenceforward the most quarrelsome of men. An anecdote was reported to me, of an occurrence during the present Pope's reign, which may fitly be related here. The Pope hati published an amnesty for all the banditti that would lay clown their DIECI-NOVE. arms ; and a treaty was entered into with one of their chiefs, called Died Nove (nineteen) from the number of murders which he had committed with his own hand.

A commission was promised him in the Pope's body-guards; but as the officers unanimously declared that they would not serve with him, this arrangement could not be carried into effect. While, however, the negotia tion was on foot, the Died Nove lived in Rome, and affected to frequent all the publick places ; he walked about with his mis tresses, and dressed in a splendid and costly manner, wearing in particular very beautiful diamond rings, the spoils no doubt of his unfortunate victims. Every body shun ned him, but no one durst affront him. The Freemasons being at that time peculiarly odious to the Government, he one day en tered the Ruspoli coffee-house, uttering the most horrible threats against them, saying he would like to see one face to face. A young Spanish colonel, who was sitting at the other end of the room, came up to the ruf fian, took his seat by him, and told him that he was a Freemason.

Every one shuddered, — DIECI-NOVE, expecting to see him fall an immediate vic tim to his imprudent courage : but in spite all of his previous blustering, theDieci Nove did not reply a syllable, and walked out of the coffee-house, without the least sign of re sentment! Sometime afterwards, not being able to obtain the conditions he required, he again left Rome, and retired into the mountains, where he resumed the com mand of his former, or of some other band of murderers. This same Ruspoli coffee-house, which is the largest in Rome, was the scene of a more tragical event, much about the same time. A man came in, while there were more than fifty persons assembled there, stabbed one of the guests, staid a moment, while all the company remained petrified with astonishment and horror, and walked out quietly, without being pursued by any one; nay, he staid several days in Rome, and at length only fled to Naples, on hear ing that measures were about to be taken for his arrest.

But such scenes will not be repeated under the administration, of the Cardinals Gonsalvi and Pacca. COFFEE-HOUSES. 13 All the coffee-houses in Rome are regu larly shut up at nine in the evening, except one in the Piazza Colonna, which continues open till one in the morning, but which is only frequented by trades people.

Chapter II

Character of Cardinal Pacca, the Governor of Rome — Police— Criminals — Punishments — Liberality of the Pope's Prime Minister Cardinal Gonsalvi— Miracles ascribed to the present Pope — Asylums for Murderers. CARDINAL Pacca, the present Gover nor of Rome, is a very clever, active, and I believe a well-meaning Minister. He has done a great deal of good, and may live to do much more; for he is still young and healthy. He has taken such rigorous measures against the wearing of arms amongst the lower classes of the people, that murders are now infinitely less com mon than formerly. Under the operation of one of his measures, all the pocket knives and stilettoes, which used to be accounted more necessary articles than pocket handkerchiefs, or even than shoes and stockings, disappeared entirely within the space of a week.

He has not been CARDINAL PACCA. equally successful with regard to the banditti in the neighbourhood ; and he does not conceal his regret and disappointment on this subject. But it is impossible to surprise them without proper spies ; and the successful employment of spies is almost entire ly out ofthe question in so deserted a country. I heard him mention some astonishing instances of impudence and of cruelty in the members of these banditti. A man who had been convicted of no less than forty -three murders, bitterly complained of the sentence which condemned him to death, asserting that he had done no harm, — absolutely nothing at all ! Some time ago another, (though the story is almost incredible) broke into a house, killed the owner, ravished his wife, asked her why she wept, aud learning that she had only been married the day before, replied — " Well, you and your husband have not " been parted long," — and blew out her b rains!

Cardinal Pacca told us, likewise, that he had meditated a law to oblige the merchants of Rome to employ their fellow- CARDINAL PACCA. citizens in their service, in preference to strangers, in order to stop the progress of the dreadful misery of the lower classes : but that all the shopkeepers declared they had rather give up trade at once. There is, indeed, but one voice as to the incorrigible laziness, and insupportable insolence of the Roman rabble. A gardener, of whom I inquired why he did not take some of those poor fellows who were starving about the streets, rather than people from Rimini, whom I thought he must hire at a much dearer rate, laughed at my simplicity, and told me that those beggars would not work, because they thought it below their dignity, — " J nostri poveri si fanno tutti Signori."

The Sbirri, who were formerly the mi litia, have all been reformed of late ; and this is certainly one of the best measures that could have been adopted. These men were taken from the very scum of the people ; nay, from the scum of the popu lace. The subsequent fate of some of them may serve as an unequivocal proof of this. Though they had a monthly pay ROMAN POLICE, AND CRIMINALS. of six dollars secured to them, eleven of them refused it, and preferred the trade of assassins. Of these eleven, five had al ready been executed. What opinion must we form ofthe police, which could employ such men as the guardians of the property and lives of the citizens ! A very horrid sort of punishment was formerly inflicted under the criminal laws of Rome, for trifling faults. The offender was hoisted up by means of a rope fastened to his arms, behind his back, and was then suddenly, dropped down with a jerk, by which process his shoulders were generally dislocated ; and when this happened to a labourer or artisan, who was thereby prevented from earning his family's bread, suicide was usually the result.

This punishment has now been entirely abolished. It is replaced by the cavaletto, which, though administered on too slight occasions, is not likely to produce such dreadful con sequences. The patient is tied on a table with his breast downwards, and receives a certain number of blows on the " seat of honour." He is not stripped for this invol. n. c fliction, but his clothes are drawn so tight by his position, that he must feel the instrument of correction almost as acutely as if he were. Some of these culprits, however, mind it so little, that they laugh and jest all the while they are undergoing it. There was one who cried out at every blow — " This is for " St. Peter, this for St. Paul, this for the " Virgin Mary, this for St. Luke," and so on, naming a saint at each lash, till he had received his whole portion.

The cavaletto is applied to those who speak too freely of the government, who play at quoits or other games at forbidden times, who create disturbances at the theatres, or commit other offences of similar magnitude. The spectators of a game are liable to be punished as severely as those who are actors in it. But the punishment is frequently evaded by playing on the steps, or within the precincts of a church, which is a sacred asylum. Strange! that religion should step in to shield offenders against the provisions of laws made for the sole purpose of prevent ing religious hours and religious seasons from being profaned! If they braved only their magistrates, nothing could save them ; but when they at the same time brave their God, they have nothing to fear! Ri gorous decrees against bearing arms, of which so bad an use was made ; the abo lition of the barbarous punishment of the rope ; the establishment of a much milder punishment to keep in order a very inso lent rabble ; the disbanding a set of ruf fians, to whom long custom had allotted the important department of the police ; all these are great, solid, and very laudable improvements.

But a great deal more remains to be done ; and principally in the discipline of the prisons, — by the separa tion of young delinquents from old and hardened villains. It seems almost incredible, but it is perfectly true, that a youth who, in a moment of violent resentment of some deep injury or insult, takes up a stone and flings it at his antagonist, is often shut up for a whole year with mur derers, assassins, and the most abomi nable malefactors. This does infinitely more harm on the one side, than the re pression of habits of violence can do good C on the other. How is it possible to con found the sudden impulse of revenge, which has its origin in an instinctive, if not a noble feeling, with the criminal premeditations of the meanest scoundrels? I once saw a very young lad at work amongst the convicts employed at the ex cavations, who seemed exceedingly un happy and ashamed to find himself in such company.

Who knows but after the expiration of his time, he may be com pletely corrupted? Another time seeing a very well-dressed youth talking fami liarly to one of the younger convicts, I asked him what his unfortunate friend had been guilty of ? — " Solo duepicole coltellate V " (Only two small thrusts with a knife)/' was his answer; and he seemed quite in dignant that such a trifle should be pu nished so severely. I inquired of se veral others, what had brought them to that pass ; two of whom told me it was for throwing stones at others ; and all the younger ones ge.-erally answered, " Solo " una, — solo due coltellate ;" with the same apparent persuasion, that they had not deserved such rigorous treatment. This very indifference is doubtless a proof of the necessity of strong measures to stop the detestable use of knives in their quarrels ; but it proves no less clearly, that ignorance and pernicious habits were the cause of it, not inveterate and rooted vice ; and that the greatest imaginable care should, in consequence, be taken, not to allow young boys of violent temper perhaps, but of generous dispositions, to associate with old and experienced rascals.

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