The Jews in the East [An abridged translation from the German of L. A. F.'s 'Nach Jerusalem!'] By P. Beaton

Chapter I

Corfu — Snow and Spring — First Impressions — Street Life — The Esplanade — The Archbishop of the Hebrews — The Head Rabbi — His Appearance — Condition of the Jews in the Ionian Islands — A Jewish School — System of Education — Misery of the Inhabitants — Causes of Dissatisfaction with the British Protectorate — Sympathy with Greece — Tourists Ruin All — A Hungarian Fugitive — A Greek Robber— Zante — Appearance of the Bay — A Martyr to Science — -Ugo Foscolo — "Song of the Graves" — An Exile's Death — The Greek Poet Solomos — Lady Douglas the Deliverer of Lampros — Death of Solomos — A Storm — The Piræus — Young Greece— -Athens — First View of the Town — Strange Names and Associations — Street Life in Athens — National Costume — 200,000 Lambs — The King's Palace — The Royal Chapel — A Disagreeable Companion — Sympathy with Russia — Lycabettus . . 1 CHAPTER H. Noisy Neighbours — Greek Ideas of Honour — The Hotel L'Orient — Sympathy with the King — Byron's Physician — His Last Illness — Post Mortem Examination — Byron and Napoleon — The Maid of Athens — A Greek Antiquary — The Elgin Marbles — The French Occupation of 1855 — Robbery of a Statue — Vandalism — Art Treasures at Naples — The Acropolis — The Land of the Barbarians — The University of Athens — Its CONTENTS.

Influence — The Symbolical Sphynxes — The Library — Degrees in Medicine — An Ancient Greek Skull — The Society of Phy sicians — The Crowning of Poets — Greek Poetry — State of the Drama — The Poet Zalakosta — Modern Greek — Diffi culties of Authors — The Academy of Plato — Sophocles — Gottfried Muller — The Austrian Ambassador — The Escurial — Painted Statuary — A French Officer Kidnapped — An Ima ginary Conspiracy — Progress — National Character — A Fune ral Procession — Schools of Art and Science — Foreign Artists A Greek Tragedy — Female Schools 32 CHAPTER HI. Rangabe, the Poet and Statesman — Character of his Poetry — The Nymphs' Hill — Superstition — Greek Sabbath — Ancient Torso — The Romaica — Presentation at Court — Personal Appearance of the Queen — Conversation with the King — His Figure and Address— An Eccentric Englishman — The Queen's Country Seat — Her Active Habits — Her Skill as an Equestrian — A German Village in Greece— Misery of the Colonists —The Jews in Greece — Massacre of the Jews — Their Sympathy with the Turks— The Jewish Community at Chalcis Its Origin— Their Present Condition— The Jews in Athens The Duchess of Piacenza a Convert to Judaism — Her Eccentricities and Death — Eleusis — A Greek Nunnery — An Arcadian Shepherd — The Eleusinian Women — The Greek Cuisine — The Church of Zacharias— Mission to Nazareth- Miss Dix, the Friend of the Insane — Her Interview with the Pope— The Lunatic Asylum at Rome— A Greek Patriot- Departure from Athens g4

CHAPTER IV.

Syra— Appearance of the Town— The Austrian Consul— The Great Eastern Question— Progress in Turkey and Greece— The Jewish Community— The Capital of Anatolia— First Impressions— Sunday at Smyrna— The Jewish Quarter— The Head Rabbi— "Eol Mebasser "— The Jewish Community— Their Past History and Misfortunes— Their Present Misery— Their Internal Government— Schools— Statistics— A Jewish CONTENTS. III Poet — The Jewish Hospital — Unleavened Bread — The Jewish Burying-Ground — The Synagogues — An Affecting Incident — Departure — Turkish Passengers — Gipsies in the East — Lesbos — Tenedos — Troy — Hero and Leander — Gallipoli — A Turkish School — First View of Constantinople — Adventure with a Skull — The Turkish Capital — Effect produced on a Stranger — Turkish Tombs and Epitaphs — Fountains — Street Life — "Serat" — The Bridge of Separation — The Rothschild of the East — The Feast of the Passover — A Jewish Family Group — Witticism of Joseph U. — The Sultan's Visit to the Mosque — His Appearance — Eunuchs — An Armenian Funeral — Description of the Sultan's New Palace ... 93

CHAPTER V.

Omer Pasha — His Early History — His Recent Marriage— -His Former Wives — Interview with him — -His House — Miichlis Pasha — Omer Pasha's Views on Education — His Personal Appearance — His Portrait — The Hat Humayoum — More Liberty in Turkey than in England — the Parliament in the Way — The Turkish Soldiers — My Last Interview with Omer Pasha — The Jewish Community — Statistics of Population — Employment of the Jews — Their Internal Government — Colleges of Rabbis — The Chacham Baschi — Nature of his Office — The Revenues of the Jewish Community — Its Expenditure — "Aricha" — Jewish Benevolent Institutions — First Jewish Synagogue — Their Expulsion under Theodosius — The Synagogues of the Sepharedim — A Jewish Juggler — Jewish Artifice — A Pious Fraud — The Karaites — Their Synagogue and Mode of Worship— A House of Mourning — Observance of the Sabbath — Number of Karaite Families — Jewish Burying Ground — Advantage of being buried in Asia, — The Story of the Bloody Head — A Learned Rabbi — The Stone of the Angels ......... 134

CHAPTER VI.

Superstitions of the Oriental Jews — A Spirit Feast — The Brusche — The Transformed Child — "Thou for me, I for thee" — "Chalebi" — Anathema against the "Chalebi" — A Tale of Mystery — Visit to the Head Rabbi — His Appearance — Con- CONTENTS. versation with Him — Education Among the Jews — Humanity of the Turkish Government Toward the Jews — Easter Bread — A Christian who Wishes to Become a Jew — His Strange History — The Allied Forces and the Turkish Dogs — A Jewish Husband Falls in Love with his own Wife — Friday Evening among the Jews — A Jewish School — The Palace of Belisarius — A Colony of Jewish Beggars — A Jewish Beauty — A Jewish Family of Musicians — A Jewish Song — Brussa — The Earthquake of 1855— Sufferings of the Jews — Condi dition of the Jews at Brussa — Their Synagogues and Office- Bearers — The Jews of Salonica — Their Origin — State of Edu cation amongst them — Their Ignorance of the Turkish Language — Insecurity of Property — Early Marriages among the Jews — Jewish Women — Agriculture Neglected — The Cause of this Neglect — Synagogues— -Krypto- Hebrews — Their Peculiar Rites — Foreign Jews — Election of Rabbis — Rabbi nical Courts — Jewish Population of Salonica — Learned Jews at Salonica — Difference Between the Jews and other Turkish Subjects — State of Civilization — Conclusion . .160 CHAPTER VH.

Departure from Constantinople — Scene on Deck — Baschi Bozuks — Their Commander — Mytilene — A Turk in Difficulties — Cos — Rhodes — Appearance of the Town — The Colossus, the Property of a Jew — La Strada dei Cavalieri — The Church of St. John — Jews — Destruction of Rhodes by Fire — Cyprus — The Jews in Cyprus — The Jewish Duke of Cyprus— Paphos — Larucca — The Church and Monastery of the Franciscans — Then- Position in Cyprus — Living Footstools — Citium — The Monastery of St. George — An Annual Fair — Black Christians — The Jews in Candia — Their Origin — Their Employment — Destruction of Canea in 1856 — First View of Lebanon — Beyroot — The President of the Jewish Community — Jewish Women Their Dress— Night Scene at Beyroot— The Synagogue- Lusting after the Fleshpots— The Jewish Community— Sisters of Mercy— A Jewish Polygamist — Early Marriages — The Jewish Burying-ground — Revolting Barbarity— The Jewish Community on Mount Lebanon — The Emir Beschir — A Jewish Horseman — Coffee-house in the Desert — Romantic CONTENTS.

V View of Lebanon — Mountain Scenery — The Residence of the Prince — The Prince's Son-in-Law — El sit Ammun — El sit Allia — El sit Mais— Conversation with the Princess — A Blind Prince — Slavery in the East — The Black Hand of Destiny — Religion of the Family — The Prince's Stud — The Young Princess, my Patient — Her Romantic Story — Departure 202 CHAPTER VHL Departure from Beyroot — Mode of Travelling — Scene at a Khan Backshish — -Agriculture in the East — A Maronite Monastery — Elijah's Mantle — Our Maronite Guests — The Religion of the wruses — Chatib — Politeness of an Arab Christian — Tattooing — The Village Shopkeeper — Might is Right — Oriental Ideas of the Value of Time — Morning in the East — Mohammedan Fatalism — A Hospitable Merchant — Exchange of Gifts — An Armenian Patriarch — A Mountain Eagle — Arab Horses — Arab Women — Wine of Lebanon — Letter- Carriers — -Vultures — A Mountain Storm— First View of Damascus — The Gardens — The Arabian Nights — The Sultan Salah-ed-in — The Countess of Ellenborough — Her Strange Adventures — Her Marriage with an Arab Sheik — Her Establishment at Damascus — Dilamir Bey — a Turkish Tragedy — Adventure with a Tiger — The Pasha of Damascus — The Interior of the Houses — The Wealthiest Jew at^Damascus — Baron Rothschild — a Jewish Feast — The Guests — Jewish Female Costume — Jewish Musicians — Jewish Toasts — Jewish Dancing — A Jewish Beauty — The Ladies' Revenge — Abd-el- Kader — His Interest in the Politics of Europe — French Occupation — The Emir's Appearance — His Taste for Poetry — His Tooth — His Influence in the East — The Jewish Community at Damascus — Synagogues — A Revolting Scene — Schools — Jewish Artisans — Jewish Converts — Baron Rothschild — A Jewish Cabalist 243

CHAPTER IX.

Departure from Damascus — The Last Sigh of the Moor — First View of Baalbec — First View of the Temple — The Military Governor — State of the Inhabitants — A Turkish School- VI CONTENTS. master— Description of the Temple— Legends connected with it — Demons the Cause of Earthquakes and Storms — The other Temple — The Small Circular Temple — The Village Mosque— The Church of St. Barbara— The Bishop of Baal bec and the Bell— The Stone Quarry— Ruins of a Mosque —Visit of Emir Harfush— His Appearance— I Prescribe for Him — An Arab Outlaw— A Solitary Column— The Devil in the Ark— A Son of Anak — The Cedars— A Duel on Mount Ætnar— The Head of a Druse— The Chapel— A Silver Horn— Destruction of the Cedars— Mountain Scenery — A Travelling Monk — Our Bivouac .... 308

CHAPTER X.

Tripoli — Living Among the Dead — Sabbath at Tripoli — The Jewish Synagogue — The Jewish Community — Their Poverty — Their Means of Subsistence — Early Marriages — The Jewish Community on Anti-Lebanon— Jewish Farmers and Warriors — A Modern Judith — Farewell to Hassan — Voices of the Night — First View of Palestine — Appearance of Jaffa — A Jewish Innkeeper — The Jewish Chacham — A Christian Proselyte to Judaism — Sir Moses Montefiore's Gardens— Another Proselyte — the Jewish Community — Departure from Jaffa — Ramleh — A Rejected Jew — The Monastery — A Night-Scene at Ramleh — Departure from Ramleh — Appearance of the Country — " The City of the Cluster of Grapes" — Kirjath Jearim — First View of Jerusalem

CHAPTER I.

Corfu — Snow and Spring — First Impressions — Street Life — The Esplanade — The Archbishop of the Hebrews — The Head Rabbi — His Appearance — Condition of the Jews in the Ionian Islands — A Jewish School — System of Education — Misery of the Inhabitants — Causes of Dissatisfaction with the British Protectorate — Sympathy with Greece — Tourists Ruin All — A Hungarian Fugitive — A Greek Robber — Zante — Appearance of the Bay — A Martyr to Science — Ugo Foscolo — "Song of the Graves" — An Exile's Death — The Greek Poet Solomos — Lady Douglas the Deliverer of Lampros — Death of Solomos — A Storm — The Piræus — Young Greece — Athens — First View of the Town — Strange Names and Associations — Street Life in Athens — National Costume — 200,000 Lambs — The King's Palace — The Royal Chapel — A Disagreeable Companion — Sympathy with Russia — Lycabettus.

On the 15th of March, 1856, 1 embarked at Trieste, on board the " Imperial Eagle," a new screw-steamer, which had just come out from England to commence hervoyages to the East. VOL. I. B On the third day, a little before noon, we came in sight of Corfu ; a splendid enclosed bay, protected by medi æval castles, a strange-looking town, with towers and palaces, behind which rise the mountains of the island, crowned with verdure to the summit, present a noble landscape, a delightful landing-place. We, who a little before had seen the snow of the Steyermark, and had felt the north wind of the Karst and the cold rain in Trieste, experienced a delightful feeling when we found ourselves in a perfectly verdant fragrant spring, and saw over us the vault of the warm blue Ionian sky. When the health officer, who had rowed out for that purpose, had seized with a tongs and looked over our papers, we landed in a boat.

We soon found ourselves in the midst of the motliest groups, in the strangest scene. We walked through narrow, dirty, badly-paved streets and lanes, with houses in strange confusion, which presented an odd mixture of the Italian, Moorish, and Oriental styles of architecture. Near marble balconies might be seen broken shutters and inscriptions on hanging sign-posts, most of them in Greek and English, fewer in Italian. The population, for the most part wearing wide Greek trowsers, parti-coloured jackets, red fez caps, frequently bare-footed, cigarette in mouth, thronged in screaming and noisy movement through all the streets ; two-wheeled carts, drawn by a mule or a horse ; donkeys, laden with splendid oranges and citrons, luxuriant vege tables, or the oddest looking fish in nets, frequently im pede all progress.

We reach the Esplanade, a large open space, planted with trees, one of the sides of which is adorned with splendid houses, with verandahs, while the other is bounded by the large castle. We walk on for a little to the white, glittering, imposing-looking palace of the Lord High Commissioner, on both sides of which are gates, adorned with pillars, through which we see the snow-covered mountains of Albania, sparkling beneath the sun's rays. We are now at the statue of the German hero, Schulenburg, who, at the beginning of the last century, successfully defended Corfu against the Turks ; after this we reach the palace, before which red-coated English soldiers keep guard. We turn our back on the palace, and the most glorious view is spread out before us ; the blue ocean sparkling in the light of the sun.

Only the Chiaja at Naples can be compared with this esplanade as a promenade. In the middle of it, soldiers were playing in their sleeves at ball; women and children, in summer clothing, sat in the street and looked at them, and occasionally applauded. Pleased with the land of the Phæacians, as the great German poet terms it, I would willingly have travelled through it, but that was no longer practicable. Here, in Corcyra, broke out the Peloponnesian war ; at the neighbouring fountain of Cressida, Ulysses met Nausicaa. However, the captain had only allowed us a few hours ashore, and so we could neither visit this nor other spots consecrated by the legends of ancient Greece, nor the ruins of the temples. Descending again from the esplanade to the narrow streets of the city, and passing the mean-looking Parb2 liament House, I reached, after walking a considerable distance, the stately house of Mr. Chazan, the Head Rabbi of the Ionian Islands.

The guide, when I told him to conduct me to him, did not at first understand, till recollecting himself, he said : — " Ah ! you mean to the Archbishop of the Hebrews." I found the worthy gentleman in a spacious library on the second floor of the house, a lofty figure in a long black girded robe, walking up and down reading a book. A black overcoat, with many folds and a violet border, and a white stiff-pointed collar round the neck, added to his imposing appearance. A broad-flapped hat, reclining gently on the head, cast an artistic shade over a pale noble countenance. Having already learned through the newspapers the object of my journey, he welcomed me with delight, and promised me at once the strongest letters of recom mendation to his friends in Jerusalem, the city of his birth. Profoundly versed in Talmudistic lore, and known as a theological writer, he received a call to be Head Rabbi of the community in Rome, where he lived five years, and mastered the Italian language so thoroughly that he was soon accounted one of the most distinguished preachers in Italy.

Having been called to Corfu five years ago, he enjoys here also a high reputation. Sub sequently, we had the pleasure of calling him our guest at Vienna ; soon after, he accepted a call to be Head Rabbi at Alexandria. Mr. Chazan speaks with great liveliness and force, to which his intellectual and animated countenance in no small measure contributes. A long pale face, with a long black beard, sparkling black eyes beneath strongly marked, deeply-arched eyebrows, a lofty forehead, and a bold aquiline nose impart to his countenance that style of beauty which we call Oriental, and which cari cature reproduces as the characteristic of the whole of our race. He reminded me of Kapistran, who, a century ago, preached at Vienna in the Latin tongue, unintelligible to the masses, but who, by dint of his outward ap pearance, the powerful tone of his voice, and the energy of his gesticulations, transported every one with enthusiasm.

Mr. Chazan spoke of the very sad condition of the Jews in the Ionian Free States. There are four thousand of them in Corfu, and two thousand in the Island of Zante. Most of them are engaged in trade; only a few support themselves as mechanics. Scarcely any of them are in comfortable circumstances, and notwithstanding the proud title, Ionian Free States, and the Protectorate of England, they neither enjoy liberty nor are they free from oppression. Jewish children are mocked at in the schools, girls altogether excluded. The Jews of Zante had just drawn up a representation to the Government, begging that their deplorable social condition might be ameliorated. I requested Mr. Chazan to give me an exact state ment of the circumstances of the case, which he promised to send after me to Jerusalem.

On my return from the East, I visited him again ; he excused himself for not having kept his word, on the ground that the representatives of the community had not deemed it advisable to make communications, which might become public and give offence to Government. But when is a Parliament resentful of publicity, especially one opened and led by a Lord High Commissioner of England ? It is everywhere the lot of the oppressed that they do not venture to express that even which the law allows them, and which is becoming the dignity of a manly character. Mr. Chazan took me to visit the School of the Com munity, where the managers, having already been in formed by him of my intended visit, received me in a friendly manner. About eighty boys, who nearly all exhibited the expression and form of body distinctive of the South, were assembled in a large room.

Only a few gave signs of their Jewish descent, a phenomenon which has frequently struck us in the German schools, where the fair hair and blue eyes reminded us as the most likely explanation of the conduct of the patriarch Jacob, grounded on physiological principles, when he wished to produce speckled sheep. Winckelmann de duces, among other reasons, the beautiful shape of the Italian head and body, from the sight of the noble forms of sculpture and painting presented to the view in Italy in many different ways. I was even here introduced to the children, with true Oriental hyperbole, as "the first doctor of Europe," by whose " gracious and happy visit " they ought to feel themselves flattered and elevated, and incited to diligence and good behaviour. At a given signal with a bell all stood up, and, marching forth from their desks, walked in regular procession round the room, and then arranging themselves at their desks, every child took his own place again.

Mr. Chazan explained to me that in the hot climate this exercise was necessary, in order to keep the children awake and ready to receive instruction. They were then examined by the teachers, first in Hebrew, then in Greek and Italian. I observed that the children remained bare headed while the Hebrew prayer was pronounced ; the answers of the children were lively, and proved that they were well taught. " Greek," observed one of the managers, " as being the language of the country, is taught with special care, and with a pure accent, unmarked by any peculiarity. We wish to avoid being derided on account of any de fects in our mode of speech," added he, in a low tone, audible only to me. The only Jew was the teacher of Hebrew and of the Bible ; the other teachers were Greeks. When I asked whether there were not Jews in Corfu capable of giving instruction on secular subjects, Mr. Chazan observed : — " We regret very much that as yet no Jew here pos sesses that capacity, but we trust in God to be able to train such men among ourselves."

" And have the Jews of acknowledged piety in this island no repugnance to allowing their children to be in structed by Christians ? " " Better a learned heathen than a high priest who is an idiot," quoted Mr. Chazan, from the Talmud. was equally surprised and delighted with the utter ance of such sentiments by a strictly orthodox Rabbi. I took the liberty of putting some questions to the managers on general subjects, which were answered with great caution, and with significant glances at the Christian teachers. The representative of a German Power, to whom I was recommended, and who was out when I called upon him, searched for me till he found me in the school. The examination, to which he had listened with much interest, was now at an end, and I had an opportunity of hearing him speak also, but on more general subjects.

" All tourists write of the ever-blue Ionian sky, of the mild climate of the islands, that makes everything glistening and fragrant, and awakens ardent desire ; but they know nothing of the inhabitants of these islands, nothing of their deplorable circumstances, of their mental depression, of their social and material misery. They might ask, ' Is there not floating here the tricolor of a free state ? Is she not upheld and protected by the claws of the English leopard ; ennobled by being called under the protectorate of the most civilised nation in the world ? Englishmen, however, care for nothing but their mili tary establishment ; they say they have no wish to interfere with the management of internal affairs ; it appears to me, however, worthy of a civilized nation to exercise some influence on the civilization of a country over which they have allowed the flag of their power and their ambition to float.

The eyes of the Ionians, weary of the English Protectorate, are ever directed towards the kingdom of Greece, with which they would wish to be incorporated. When the Queen, on her way to Germany, cast anchor in the harbour, boats, with blue and white flags, crowded round her on all sides, and sung songs, and did homage to her with music and enthusiastic acclamations. " On these islands, which might well be termed ' for tunate,' in virtue of their happy climate and their fruitful soil, the children remain without instruction, the adults without civilization, the court of justice without respect — tourists, sir, spoil all." I felt myself moved as it were by a warning voice, to avoid writing an ode to the Ionian Islands, and could not but put the question: — " Why do not those who are gifted with a clear insight into affairs, and who are called upon to know them professionally, give us information, and enlighten our views and prejudices 1 " " Do we not do so, then 1 Every official who comes to us from the West is fascinated with the wonderful nature of the South.

Individuals and circumstances, by their strangeness and their novelty, make a lively impression on his senses without an effort on his part. He is gene rally an attentive observer, and in his official reports de lights in communicating his views and experiences. He does so diligently, being impelled, as it were, by an inward sense of duty ; at least, he is specially recommended to do so in his instructions. He does so then for years, with out being tired, even when he receives no answer, no acknowledgment of his trouble, no encouragement to con tinue his labours. At length there occurs some great political event, as the war between Russia and Turkey, which is just now interrupted, but not yet brought to a conclusion. The diplomatists all of a sudden wish for information, and the official perhaps receives a reprimand for having neglected his duty.

He pereeives that for years he has observed and written in vain, that his fondly-cherished opinions, his despatches drawn up with so much clearness, have not been read. He refers to his official report, which perhaps may still be found somewhere among the archives, and is silent for the suture. Russia alone knows and understands perfectly the politics of the East and the condition of Turkey." " Why do they not make known their valuable ex perience and knowledge through the press? " " Offence is often given by his despatches ; is it likely, then, that the official, when for example he is a consul, and wishes to become Consul-general, will touch the fire of publicity, and thereby get into bad odour ? Remain four weeks with us ; I will take you over the islands ; you will then see what a curse is weighing upon this earthly paradisei" Lloyd's steamer in the harbour began again to get up her steam, and a thick vapoury pillar of smoke gave warning that the period of her stay was at an end.

With regret Iwas obliged to interrupt the interesting communications of so well-informed an observer, and to take my departure. Our society on board ship was increased by the addition of Colonel Dirk, of the British service, the Hun garian refugee, whose capture by an Austrian commandant had excited no small sensation at the time. Another traveller, whom we saw marching up and down the deck at large after we had cleared the harbour, and at whose side two officers of the Austrian police were walking, was a Greek robber who had taken refuge on the Aus trian soil, and being demanded back by the Greek Government for the crime of murder, was now being handed over to them ; he was very lively, spoke to everyone, and made himself very agreeable to us all — in spite of our natural repugnance to him — by naming every mountain peak, every cliff between the rocks, as we sailed past the islands, and by describing their minutest peculiarities in such a way as could only be done by one who had been accustomed to live among the mountains as a fugitive, after he had dyed his dagger with blood.

The sea was smooth as a mirror, and the sun sank in a fiery-red sky, lighting up the distant ridge of the islands. There followed a starlight night. Late after midnight, I was awakened by a violent alarm — the ship stood still, the loud incessant working of the screw was no longer perceptible. I leaped at once from* bed, dressed myself, and hurried on deck. We were at anchor in the Bay of Zante. The crescent moon, near her wane, lay white and clear over the dark crest of a mountain; her faint fight, aided by that from the stars, gave only an imperfect view of a semicircle of houses, pressed close to the bay. Between it and our vessel floated a number of barges, which were brightly illuminated with torches, exhibiting the white turbans of Turks, the bright glittering costumes of Albanians wearing the fez, and half-naked men rowing with powerful stroke.

The Turks tried to surpass one another in speed, and to avoid a collision ; and in embarking the men and goods which they carried, the rowers shouted so loud, and, in order to make themselves better heard, gave such a strong and protracted emphasis to the last syllable, that even the noise of the ocean was inaudible. There was such violent pressing and scrambling up the ship's ladder, such shouting and blustering, as to tempt the belief that Zante was a desolate island, from which shipwrecked mariners, waiting for years to be rescued, wished to escape on a vessel sailing swiftly past. It was an hour before the crew had embarked, with equal noise, all the bales and boxes of goods, and the empty barks rowed back again to the town, where lights were burning in some of the houses, waiting the return of the boat men, and enabling us to perceive more clearly the uncertain outline of the town.