Five Years in China; from 1842 to 1847. With an account of the occupation of Labuan and Borneo by her Majesty's forces

Front matter

[Vinted in Colors by Ruliman&el fcW THE EMPRESS OF CHINA Second Wife of the presentEmperor Taow-Kwan From an original Chinese Drawing Richard Bentley.London FIVE YEARS IN CHINA; FROM 1842 TO 1847. WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE OCCUPATION OF THE ISLANDS OF LABUAN AND BORNEO BY HER MAJESTY'S FORCES. BY LIEUT. F. E. FORBES, R.N. COMMANDER OF H. M. S. BONBTTA. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, 8, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, Publt£.f)er tn ©rUtnarp to %)tr SHajt_st»; 1848. LONDON : Printed by S. & J. Bentley, Wilson, and Fley, Banpor House, Shoe Lane. PAGE 1 10 CONTENTS.

Introduction

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Object of the Author's Journey in China.— Fallacious Ideas respecting the Chinese Character.— Improbability of Renewal of Hostilities. — Official Rank. — Impartiality of the Emperor. — Government. — Character and Death of Mr. Thom and Captain Gordon. — Sources of Information. .

Chapter II. Shanghae

Division of Provinces. — Vessels in the Harbour. — Superiority of Shanghae for Foreigners, as contrasted with Canton. — Description ofthe City. — City Gates.— Bridges. — Charitable Institutions. — Police Regulations. — Salt. — Forestalled of Rice. — The Customs. — Local Officers. — Travelling Want of Fire-places. — Streets and Shops. — Bazaars Itinerant Traders. — Dentists. — Fortune-Tellers. — Quacks and Jugglers.— Punch and other Shows. — Baths. — Fire-engines. — Fu-kien Thieves — Encounter with them. — The " Sons of the Soil," or " Wolfmen." — The Salt Treaty. — " Society of the United Three." — Chinese Beggars, numerous — Their Mode of Ex action. .......

Chapter III. Coins

Early Emperors had no Coined Money. — Antiquity of their Coinage. — Has undergone no material change from the Time of our Saviour, or thereabouts. — Coinage decimally CONTENTS. IV PAGK arranged. — Cowrie-shells served as Money, according to Mon sieur Hager.— Tortoise-shell anciently used as Money. — Weight Money. — Bronze Money— its first appearance in the Time of the Founder of the Chou Dynasty, B.C. 1105. — Round Money, its several kinds.— Metals of the Coinage various. — Sycee Silver and Gold in Ingots.— Origin of the term Sycee. — Classes of Sycee Silver. — Copper Money. — Medals. — Origin of the Bank Note. — Banking in China. 55

Chapter IV. Agriculture

Beautiful Economy of Chinese Agriculture. — Mortgages. — Waste Land. — Quit-rent. — The Emperor a Patron of Agriculture. — Irrigation. — Manure. — Chinese Farm. — Agricultural Implements. — Chi'iese Industry. — Number of Crops. — High-roads. — Bamboo. — Cattle-feeding. — Content ment of the Chinese. ..... 73

Chapter V. Diet And Dinner In

A TAVERN, Chinese Bill of Fare — Its Constituents. — Ducks — Their remarkable Discipline. — Regular Tavern Dinner. — Waiter. — Pipe-bearer. — Courses and Dishes. — Reckoning. 93

Chapter VI. Education

Learning the Key to Civil Offices.— Open to all without distinction. — Three Classes only excluded, viz., Boatmen, Coolees, and Actors. — No Civil Appointment can be held without a literary qualification. — Village School — Ge nerally attached to the Joss-house. — Meaning of Joss-house. — Mode of learning at Village Schools. — Four Degrees of CONTENTS. V PAGE 103 115 130 137 Literary Honours.— Different Classes of Teachers Edict regarding Literary Honours. — Great care taken to prevent any unfair Practice. — Subjects of Examination. — Fraud sometimes used in obtaining a Degree. — Hall of Examina tion.

Chapter VII. Confucius

Chinese Deities.— Sacrificial Officers. — Aim of the Studies of Confucius — His Birth, Parentage, Character, and Personal Appearance.— Respect for his Mother. — His Descendants, Tenets, and Temples. — Religious Procession at Amoy Mencius — His Education, Character, and Descendants.

Chapter VIII. Taouism

Its Founder a Contemporary of Confucius — His Followers not numerous. — Temples Gods. — Priests Temple at Ningpo. — Temple of Ancestral Remains. — Invitation to a Religious Ceremony. — Description of it. .

Chapter IX. Buddhism

Origin of Buddhist Religion. — Legend of " The Fragrant Hill." — Story of the Tiger. — Miracle performed by Buddha. — Introduction of Buddhism. — Beautiful situation of the Temples. — Description of Tien T'hung Joss-house. — Mode of Travelling. — Interior of a Monastery. — The Priests — Their Ceremonies and Mode of Living. — Aqueducts. — Wild Hogs. — Civility of the Priests — Origin of Tien T'hung. — Beautiful View from the Temple.— Plucking the Tea Leaf. Grand Procession in Honour of Shinnung. . VI CONTENTS. r-AUE 168 183 192

Chapter X. The Isle Of Poo-to

Number of Priests and Temples.— Visit of the Dutch. — Extent of the Island. — Famine from Dearth of Water in the Chusan Group of Islands. — Two Wooden Deities bring Rain Origin of the name Poo-to. — Scenery of the Island. — Large Temple. — Mausoleum. — The Tae Hoshang. — Smaller Temples. — Suicide's Leap. — Productions. — Water Buffaloes. — Description of Kung Shang — Its Library. — Nunneries.

Chapter XI. Christianity

Few Converts to Christianity. — Plan adopted by Roman Catholics. — The Success of Protestant Missions — Advantages of the Jesuits over the Protestants — Anecdotes of Mis sionaries. — Andre, a Corean Roman Cathohc Priest — His Account of his Travels. — Domestic Tragedy at Pekin. — Sect of the Devils. ......

Chapter XII. Military

British and Chinese Troops compared. — Chinese Military Maxims disregarded. — Want of Discipline. — Expresses and Posts. — Protection of the Frontier. — Emigration. — Barracks. — Soldiers' Arms bad. — Ordnance. — Soldiers' Dress. — Fight ill in a body. — Military Mandarins. — Intercepted Govern ment Despatch. — Division of Troops into Tartar and Chinese. — Attempted Intercourse with the Mandarins during the War. — Mr. Thorn's Narrative of its ill Success. CONTENTS. VII PAGE 217 229 243

Chapter XIII. Review

Public Dinner at Ningpo. — An Insurrection. — The Man darin Shoo. — Attempt to obtain an Interview with the Go vernor-General at Ningpo. — Obtained with difficulty. — Re view of three Regiments — Their Manœuvres. — Orders given by waving of Flags. — Colours. — Civility to the Author on the Parade. .......

Chapter XIV. Navy

The Emperor's Opinion of a Sailor's Duty. — Navy on same footing as Army. — Policy of the Admiral at Amoy during the War. — Murder of the Inhabitants of Tapeba-Shan. — Coast Surveying. — Arms of the Navy. — Immense numbers living in Boats. — Description of Junks. — Pleasure Boats. — Canal Travelling. — Grain Junks. — Itinerant Trades afloat.

Chapter XV. Nautical Surveys

Useful information to Captains of Vessels navigating the Chinese waters — Chusan — Its approach. — Situation of the Quesans Islands Best Entrance to Chusan Harbour. — The South-east Passage.— South Passage.— Passages to Ningpo.— Tahiah River and its three Passages.— Approach to Yang tse-Keang. — The Ruggeds of Gutzlaff. — The Navigation of the Yang-tse-Keang — Entrance of the Shanghae River. CONTENTS. VIII PAGE 262 284 295

Chapter XVI. Miscellaneous

Observance of Festival of the New Year at Shanghae.— Exchange of Compliments.— Visiting Cards.— Address for a Letter.— Business of the Host at a Feast.— Ceremony of making Calls and saluting Friends on the second Day. — Settlement of Disputes deferred to the New Year.— The Button the Distinction of the Mandarin.— Badges of Dis tinction.—Small Feet of Chinese Ladies.— Other curious Fancies. — Marriage and its Ceremonies. — Funeral Rites.

Chapter XVII. The Treaty And Taking Possession Of Labuan

Conquest of Labuan — Situation of the Town. — Murders committed by order of the Sultan. — Cession of Labuan to the British Government. — Taking possession in the name of Queen Victoria.— Speech of Captain Mundy on the occasion. — Character of the Sultan. — His overreaching Conduct. — Pedigree of his Family. .....

Chapter XVIII. Massacre Of Brune

Despatch received from the Sultan by the British Au thorities. — Translation. — The Pangeran Suliman's Tale. — Arrival of Captain Heath.— Settlement ofthe Disputes.

Chapter XIX. Manners And Customs Of The Borneo Malays

The Malays a proud Race. — Their Character. — Descrip tion of Borneo — Its Products. — Household Furniture. — Dress CONTENTS. IX PAGE 302 310 327 337 338 339 340 341 of the Malays — Their Indolence. — Arabic the Character of their Writing — Learning. — Marriage. — Mode of Burial. — Religion. — Orang Caya, or Superintendent of a District.

Chapter XX. Search For Coal

Shape of the Island of Labuan. — Map of it. — Description. — Search for Coal. — Appearance of the Island — Its Pro ducts. — Illness of the Exploring Party. — Coal discovered — Its Quality and Quantity. . . . . .

Appendix

. I. — The Eighteen Provinces of China Proper, with the Latitudes and Longitudes of the Capitals, Official Appoint ments, Salaries, &c. . . . . . II.— Population of China Proper, with List of Officers, Local and Provincial. . . . . . III. — Comparison of Military Rank — Chinese and English. IV. — The Twenty-eight Dynasties of China. V.— Chronology of China — the Cycle of Sixty Years from 1847. ....... VI. — Official Returns of the Trade with various Ports of China. ....... h ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of the Empress of China . to face the Title. Cultivation of Rice, ploughing . • .73 „ HUSKING ... 86 „ SOWING . . • .87 ,. TRANSPLANTING . • 88 „ REAPING . . • .89 Mountain Sedans, Province of Sheaou-Pih . . 148 Ancient Monument, containing the Ashes of a deceased Jriest . . . ■ • .1/4 Ancient Temple at Poo-to .... 177 A Military Mandarin . . . . .192 Dinner at the Public College, Ningpo . . 217 Ahr.ival of H. E. Leang-Paow-Chang at the Military Temple . . . . - .218 Entering Ningpo by the Salt-gate . . . 222 Three Regiments in Square . . . 226 Firing a Volley ...... 227 Celebration of the New Year at Shanghae . 262 A Bride .272 Bride's Feast ..... 274 Bride and Bridal Chamber .... 275 Bridegroom's Feast ..... 276 Theatrical Performance at a Marriage . . 277 Chart of the Island of Labuan . . .311 CHINA AND LABUAN.

Chapter I. Introduction

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Object of the Author's Journey in China.— Fallacious ideas respecting the Chinese Character. — Improbability of Renewal of Hostilities. — Official Rank. — Impartiality of the Emperor. — Government. — Character and Death of Mr. Thom and Captain Gordon. — Sources of Information. It having been my lot during the last five years to cruise about the country where the quaint figures that are familiar to us on porcelain have a real ex istence, and man appears under such an extraordinary aspect as to have led some writers to doubt whether Noah might not have settled in China with a fourth post-diluvian born son, and with the prospect of a long sea voyage before me, I thought I might beguile the tedium of it by arranging the following few notices of what I saw and heard in China, B OBJECTS OF THE AUTHOR. together with such of the affairs of Borneo as occurred while I was on the spot.

I was present at most of the late hostilities in China, but being recently arrived I should suppose that they must long ago have found an abler chroni cler than me, so I confine myself to what I was able to learn of the manners, customs, and pecu liarities of the country and its inhabitants. The object of my different journeys when on land was principally to form a collection of coins, of which I shall in due time give merely a passing notice, as the subject generally, and my collection, are in the hands of a learned Chinese scholar, who will shortly be commenting upon them. But to that object I directed a great deal of attention, and travelled over a vast tract of country; and mixed, as much as cir cumstances would allow me, in pure native society of all ranks, from the Governor-general ofthe province to the poor tenant of the humblest cottage.

And here I feel bound to say that I laid aside a mass of preconceived ideas prejudicial to the Chinese. I had formed something like an estimate of Canton from the accounts I had previously read — of true local descriptions I admit ; but as regards the nation at large nothing can be more falla cious than the ideas conveyed by them. After the first blow of hostilities, and a little irritation consequent on defeat, which an Englishman can CHINESE CHARACTER. 3 well afford to make allowances for, I found my self in the midst of as amiable, kind, and hos pitable a population as any on the face of the globe, as far a-head of us in some things as behind us in others. No one could think of searching the back streets of Chatham, or the purlieus of Wapping, for a fair criterion of British society, or specimens of the yeomanry of merry England ; yet from data such as these we have hitherto drawn our ideas of Chinese morality and civilization, but, as the country opens, and we become better acquainted, I trust that both parties will find that they are not the barbarians they have hitherto mutually believed each other to be.

As to any renewal of hostilities I have not the slightest idea of any such being likely to take place : the treaty on the part of their government has been most religiously observed. The emperor would willingly have paid the 21,000,000 of dollars down in one year, but as it was preferred in instalments he was never behind-hand for a day. The only in terruption that British commerce is likely to meet with is from the detestable rabble of Canton, and the Meaow-tse, or men of the hills, the gallant but wild remnant of unconquered Chinese who have never bent to a Tartar yoke, over both of whom the government has little or no control, and a good b RANKS IN SOCIETY. thrashing now and then administered to either or both would not cause much sensation at the court of his Imperial Majesty Taow Quan.

It is not so easy to gain the entree into the higher orders of society. The spirit of aristocracy is high and exclusive. I know nothing of hereditary rank, further than the fact of its existence, but official rank removes the bearer from all communion with his kindred. The great object of every father is to give one at least of his children such an education as may qualify him for government office, which is almost sure to be the lot of any who passes the requisite examinations. But the employe is seldom or never appointed to any situation in his own pro vince, nor can he be on terms of intimacy with any one of much less rank than himself. Traders of any sort or description he can never reckon amongst the number of his acquaintance, poor relations he cannot acknowledge in public ; but, if after his resignation of office he retires to his own native province, he again returns to the bosom of his family, and becomes the acknowledged head of it by purchasing the patrimonial estate.

Great impartiality between Chinese and Tartar is shewn in the appointment of officers ; the imperial patronage is most equally divided between the two races, which may be sound policy on the part of the emperor, as there is little chance of fusion between POWER OF THE EMPEROR. 5 them. They never intermarry, except that the em peror now and then takes a Chinese wife, but the mother of his heir must be a Tartar. In all other ranks that I have seen, but little jealousy is shewn ; the Chinaman unemployed by government is as ready to give as to ask for information, and however poor he may be, will vacate the best, or if he has but one, the only chair in his house, and bring out the best fare that his establishment can afford on the entrance of strangers. Under the despotic sway of the Son of Heaven, the subject enjoys a fair portion of liberty, and more happiness than falls to the lot of most nations.

The empire is as one family, and if the Imperial Father sometimes visits severely the error of a member of it, yet is he slow to exercise his au thority; and though death be the penalty that the law awards for many offences, capital punish ments are extremely rare ; and the bent of the legislation aims at providing against the ills of humanity, by relieving its wants, and preventing rather than punishing crime. For this purpose education is general, arts are encouraged, gigantic undertakings are completed for facilitating trade, agriculture is held in honour, and every possible means adopted for feeding the people and preventing or alleviating famines, which, with- GOVERNMENT. out some such regulations would perhaps oftener occur. The whole system of government from its an tiquity is necessarily most elaborate, the constitu tion has lasted almost entire from times when the rest of the world was barbarous, and has had the advantage of centuries of peace to consolidate itself.

The history of the country presents an extraordinary number of different dynasties ; but their revo lutions have done little more than to put a new monarch on the throne, who has found it his interest to leave the great body of the people to pursue the even tenor of their way much as before. And if a report reaches our ears of some case of hardship, we must make allowances for the immense machine that the executive has to direct ; and under what government will not individual cases of hard ship arise ? Mandarins have been subjected to unmerited degradation, and the people have been oppressed by mandarins ; but, on the truth appearing, the government never fails to amend an error and re dress a wrong. As for the honesty of the people, " Let us speak of a man as we find him ; " and though comparisons are odious, yet rather costly experience compels me to say that my own pro perty suffered more from actual robbery in landing MR. THOM. and passing the English frontier, than during my whole sojourn in China.

But besides the opportunities I enjoyed of seeing for myself, it was my good fortune while at Ningpo to make the acquaintance of a gentleman who was always ready in the kindest manner to render me any assistance that lay in his power — I mean the late Mr. Thom. He was in every respect a remarkable man, holding a high situation in a great mercantile establishment at a liberal salary, and with every expense provided for him, he was on the way towards making a very large and rapid fortune ; but on the breaking out of hostilities, it was absolutely necessary to procure an interpreter — a post for which his extensive knowledge of the language and people thoroughly qualified him. From a mere sense of duty to his country, (it would not be easy to point out many parallel instances) he left his employment, and took the interpretership on much less advantageous terms than he had previously enjoyed, and rendered himself highly useful throughout the war; and at its conclusion became Her Majesty's Consul at Ningpo, at a moderate salary, with the disadvantage of having to keep almost open house to any and every stranger whom chance or duty took to Ningpo.

The assiduity with which Mr. Thom discharged his functions, heightened an illness under which he CAPTAIN GORDON. had been for some time suffering, and when leave of absence for the benefit of his health was granted, his high zeal for his country forbade his availing himself of it until the arrival of a suc cessor, who arrived just in time to bury him, leaving a family very poorly provided for. His death deprived Her Majesty's Government of a faithful and experienced servant, and me of a valuable friend. I had also for some part of the time the ad vantage of serving under Captain James Alexander Gordon, who took great pleasure in accompanying me in my rambles, and whose hearty bonhomie, urbanity of manner, and kindliness of disposition, ensured us a welcome wherever we went. I have to lament his falling the first British victim to the climate of Labuan, where I had the me lancholy satisfaction of seeing him properly in terred, soon after our taking possession of the island.

In cases where I have felt myself at a loss to understand many things that came under my no tice, I have freely to acknowledge myself under obligation to a periodical, published at Hong Kong, under the title of the Chinese Repository, a valuable cyclopedia of local information, which I much wonder has not found its way more into the libraries of Europe. I have also copied from Sir George SOURCES OF INFORMATION. Staunton, such of the laws as I thought I could throw any light upon from personal information. With such advantages, perhaps, these few glean ings may yet appear but scanty; but I have endea voured to avoid dilating on whatever I supposed might be known to the mass of English readers, and shall feel very happy if the only fault that can be found with me be that of omission. SHANGHAE.

Chapter II. Shanghae

Division of Provinces. — Vessels in the Harbour. — Superiority of Shanghae for Foreigners as contrasted with Canton. — Description ofthe City. — City Gates. — Bridges. — Charitable Institutions. — Police Regulations. — Salt — Forestalled of Rice. — The Customs. — Local Officers. — Travelling. — Want of Fire-places. — Streets and Shops. — Bazaars. — Itinerant Traders. — Dentists. — Fortune-Tellers. — Quacks and Jugglers. — Punch and other Shows. — Baths. — Fire-engines. — Fu-kien Thieves. — Encounter with them.— The "Sons of the Soil," or " Wolfmen."— The Salt Treaty. — "Society of the United Three." — Chinese Beggars, numerous. — Their Mode of Exaction. The cities of China and their inhabitants, with the exception of those of Canton, are mostly verv similar to each other, and as I consider Shanghae, for reasons presently to be stated, to be the most important for Europeans to have some information about, I have selected it to describe as the best means of giving an insight into Chinese town life.

Every province is divided into a certain number HARBOUR. of districts, called a Fu, Ting, Chow, and Heen. A Fu is a large portion or department of a province under the general control of a civil officer, immediately subordinate to the head of the provincial government. A Ting, a smaller division than, and sometimes a portion of, a Fu, when separate it is governed as a Fu, and called a Chuh-le. A Chow is similar to a Ting, as also a Heen, but each is a smaller division ; each Fu, Ting, Chow, or Heen, has one or more towns, or walled cities, under its guidance, one of which takes its name and rank as Kwang-Chow-Fu and Shang-Hae-Heen, which latter, although of that subordinate rank, is the largest maritime city in the empire, and the greatest resort of the native ships or junks. I could not, from the jealousy of the government officials, ascertain the number of craft that enter the harbour, but should say that from three to four thousand, of large dimensions, ride at anchor there, at the close of the South-west Monsoon.

The whole would seem to be under the direction of a very able harbour-master, moored head and stern in tiers of from fifteen to twenty. The harbour, which is formed by a bend of the river, is in every way commodious, and adapted for an extensive trade. The imports in native bottoms consist mostly of SHANGHAE Straits produce, i. e. from Sincapore, Malacca, and Penang. Sugar, tobacco, and rice, from the Lu conias and other islands of the eastern archipelago, while a considerable number of smaller craft are employed in the coasting trade to the various mari time provinces. From its central position, as an emporium on the banks of a river, tributary to the Yang-Tse-Kiang, near the Imperial Canal, and midway between Pekin and Canton, I should not be at all surprised if, in a few years, Shanghae became the only port of real trade with foreigners.

The disturbances continually arising in Canton, causing inconvenience, to say the least of it, to the merchants there, together with the additional ex penses arising from its distance from the tea and silk countries, must soon go far to lessen the trade of that port. Amoy is almost drained to supply its tributary, Formosa, and imports almost all necessaries from the native trade, in junks, with the Straits and the Luconias; besides, being far from either the tea or silk countries, it does not offer a convenient market to foreign enterprise. Foo-choo-Fu, from the jealousy entertained to wards foreigners by the Tartar inhabitants, who form a majority of its population, labours under a like disadvantage. While Ningpo, from its diffi- CONTRASTED WITH CANTON. 13 culty of access and vicinity to the far superior port of Shanghae, has not as yet been found of suffi cient importance for the establishment of a single branch-house.

Thus nearly all trade with foreigners is sus tained, at present, by the ports of Canton and Shanghae; and the convenience of the position of the latter, together with the liberal hospitality of its inhabitants, must soon, in my opinion, in crease its importance, and secure its monopoly. The English merchant at Canton is almost a prisoner in his house ; he has only a few streets open to him for the required recreation, even for the benefit of exercise, and then with the probability of insult. Experience has taught him that even his own house may be a very unsafe refuge from a furious and ignorant mob ; any ex citement, from whatever cause it originates, is sure to vent itself on the unfortunate foreigners, and, perhaps, bring the building about his ears with very small chance of redress. On the other hand at Shanghae, he is surrounded by a peaceable and hospitable community, where crime is a matter of such rare occurrence, that His Excellency Kung Mukiu, the civil governor, said in my presence that, during his government of so large a population, which had lasted, I believe, nine years, one execution only had taken place, and that for SHANGHAE. crim. con. and murder of the injured husband ; this may serve as an illustration not only of the morality of a people, whom I have read somewhere termed a nation without morals or truth, but of the general mildness of the government.

But, besides the absence of crime in Shanghae, the city is always open to the foreigner equally with the native ; and I have had several years' experience to ground my statement on, that insults or annoyances, of every kind, are less frequent to strangers than in any part of the world. The above may be considered but light reasons for the decline of trade in one port, and its ac cession in another; but want of land in the one, and the easy acquirement of it in the other may be conceived more weighty. It is not very long since, that the mandarins threatened the destruc tion of a garden recovered from the river in front of the foreign factories at Canton : nor has the effect of the war induced the provincial government to yield any portion of land for foreigners' uses, except to build their actual houses of bu siness on.

But at Shanghae, several acres of ground are already the property of individual merchants. I feel no doubt that, in the course of a few years, country villas will be owned by partners in the larger houses at convenient distances from the city. CITY GATES. 15 But in one particular Canton has the advantage — in the greater salubrity of its position; be tween the mast-head and the horizon around Shanghae, not a single rise of ground is visible — the whole expanse is a country something like Llolland or Belgium, with its rich cultivation, and numerous canals, teeming with wealth, beauty, and ague. The city, that is to say, the walled city or cita del, is by no means extensive, for China, being less than four miles in circumference (that of Nan kin is thirty) ; but it is surrounded on all sides by very large suburbs, making the area of its depen dencies of an enormous extent.

It is entered by four principal and two smaller gates, the north, south, east, and west, and the little south and east gates ; besides these are three water gates, by which the different canals (having made the circuit of the walls,) pass through the city into the river, carrying with them all the offal, and affording the means for the transporta tion of merchandize. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the houses low. Nearly all the government-offices are within the citadel ; and her majesty's consul has a large residence in the centre. Among the principal in stitutions are the college, a fine building with stone edifices, and ornamental temples surrounding; a SHANGHAE. 16 hio-hly elegant grotto garden, varied with lakes, bridges, hills, and trees. The Temple of Confucius is a handsome struc ture, covering about three acres of ground.

Near the centre of the city are the public gardens with lakes and islands, in and around, which are picturesque overhanging temples fitted as tea-houses. In various parts of the gardens are temples for the deities, playhouses, and grottoes, surmounted with exotics arranged with great taste, while in the area in front of the principal tea-houses, are the tents of astrologers, doctors, dentists, necro mancers, booksellers, almost all itinerant trades, peep-shows, dancers on the tight-ropes, and Punch ; although this place is generally thronged with vi sitors no disturbances or annoyances ever take place. In the houses adjoining are every kind of shop, among which are numbers of dealers in antiquities and curiosities. The mandarins' offices are among the most showy buildings, being generally painted with bright co lours, and approached through large court-yards in which are huge carved representations of dragons, lions, or other animals, each of which is emblematic, as the figures in our heraldry : on the left hand side is mostly an orchestra for a band of music; and on the right the saluting guns.