Arabistan: or the Land of 'The Arabian Nights.' Being travels through Egypt, Arabia, and Persia, to Bagdad ... With an introduction by Bayard Taylor

Introduction

ET BAYARD TAYLOR. I have read the proof-sheets of this -work with a double interest : — First, from my long and familiar acquaintance with the Author : and, secondly, from the manifold charms which Deiong to the field of his travels. Although Arabistan, or IMr-Arabi, as it is also called, has become accessible to the tourist within the last few years, it has only attracted such visitors as feel a special interest in both its antique and mediæval memories ; and of these Mr. Fogg is, I believe, with but one exception only, the first American to make report of what he has seen. I find not only inherent proofs of his fidelity as an observer, in the narrative itself, but the circumstance that a portion of the ground he has traversed is also familiar to me, enables me to testify to it out of my own knowledge.

From the manner in which he depicts the experiences of a traveler in Palestine and Egypt, I accept his picture of Bagdad, the Plains of the Euphrates, and the ruins of Babylon, as being equally honest and exact. I therefore cheerfully accede to the desire of his publishers that I should contribute this introductory note.

INTRODUCTION.

. VI The reader must not suppose that I have revised, or in any way edited, a work which was complete, in type, be fore I saw it. Every traveler should tell his own story in his own way. Especially where the field is so new and so fascinating as in the present case, the simple, unvarnished recital of one's own experiences and observations is all that is needed. If any further endorsement seems desira ble, it can only be that which comes from knowledge of the Author's character ; and I am sure that this, also, is superfluous. The interest which all intelligent persons feel in the sites of the earliest Chaldean civilization, in the traces of the later Macedonian empire, and the latest splendors of the famous capital of the Caliphs, will sufficiently com mend this volume to the public. My knowledge of the author, and of the circumstances under which his journey was made, must be my apology for an introduction which I would fain believe is unnecessary.

So many of our citizens have the time, means, and capacity for adding similar contributions to our knowledge of the world, and so few avail themselves of those advant ages or recognize a higher duty than their own personal gratification, that this example deserves a general and grateful recognition. BAYARD TAYLOR. ¥lte Sutl^ofy f^efiide The title of this volume, " Arabistan," signifies in Persian, "The Country of the Arahs." Egypt, Arabia, and Persia, are the scene of the " Thousand and One Stories," in many of which Haroun-al-Easchid, the Caliph of Bagdad, is the hero. My motive in visiting these countries was not merely the pursuit of pleasure, but a desire to gratify a long-cherished wish, I might almost say a passion, to see, at least once in my lifetime, the strange and curious nations of the Orient, which have always had for me a strange fascination.

The excuse of ordinary travelers who write books, was not mine. I was not ordered abroad "by the doctors," but started in perfect health, which I retained through all the vicissitudes of scene and climate, and I may add that I met with no serious mishap to mar the pleasure of the journey. In attempting to describe the " Land of the Arabian Nights," as it appears to-day, I have confined myself, in a great measure, to what passed under my own observation, and have endeav ored to give a faithful picture of such adventures as would naturally befall a traveler; making no attempt at fine writing or high-flown description. As a book of scientific exploration this volume makes no pre tentions. The works of Eawlinson, Layard, and more recently of George Smith, have opened a new page to the student of THE AUTHORS

Preface

. VIII history, by bringing to light the long-buried treasures of Nineveh and Babylon. The space I have devoted to these discoveries is of course quite inadequate to do justice to a subject so full of interest from a scientific point of view ; but, at the same time, I think that the reader will find something to interest him in the sketches which I have given of my own visit to the Plains of Shinar, and what befell me near the ruins of Babylon, and among the Arabs of the surrounding country. The full-page illustrations are from original photographs, of which I believe no other copies have been taken. They are therefore unique. It was my good fortune to meet at Bagdad a young English gentleman, to whom photography was a pastime. The views of street life in Oriental cities, and other interesting scenery here reproduced, are strictly true to nature, and were certainly the first ever taken in the various localities which they represent.

The small illustrations are all from original drawings, from the pencil of a well-known American artist, and the author can certify to their correctness and excellence, both in design and execution. The unexpected courtesy and kindness everywhere met with during my travels, from both foreign residents and natives, and the many chance acquaintances then formed, and which have since ripened into friendships that will endure for a lifetime, are among the pleasantest souvenirs of my journey W. P. F. Cleveland, August, 1875. doi\tei\t^.

Chapter I. London To Alexandria

Page, Gerard Rohlf s Expedition— Exploring the Great Sahara Desert— The Writer's Plans — By Express — Trains through France — Steamer Missed at Marseilles, and still Missing— The Entrepdt of France- Toulon — "Horse-Marines"— Nice to Genoa — A grand Panorama — " Parkz-vous Anglais"!" — Doctor Antonio and the Corniche Road Genoa "Is he Dead" — Leghorn — Pisa — Naples — False Pretenses — Messina and Sicily — A Wonderful Relic — Oranges by the Basketful —The Sicilia and her Passengers—" Young England "—The Hurricane and a Lee Shore — We almost touch at Crete — Arrival at Alexandria, 23

Chapter II. Alexandria To Cairo

Scenes in Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needles — An. Apology — Up the Nile — Ships ofthe Desert — Well-Sweeps aud Water- Wheels— Civilization in Egypt — Cairo Unchanged— A Princess's Marriage and Splendid Fetes— The Story of the Bride — How a Slave- Girl became a Princess— Our Consul-General in Egypt — The Sahara Exploration-party already Started — A Disappointment— Sir Samuel Baker's Expedition not a Success— Dissatisfaction of the Egyptian Government— Colonel Gordon— Change of Programme— To Bagdad and Persia instead of Central Africa, 34

Chapter III. Scenes In Cairo

Church Bells do not make a Sabbath— Dragomans— Scenes in Front of the Hotel— Peddlers and Mountebanks—" Me very good Juggler" —Donkeys and Donkey Boys— A "Donk" with an Illustrious Name —The Fez— The Bazaars— Sprinkling Machines— The "Light of the Harem "—Old Abraham comes to Grief— The Story-Teller— Citadel The Mamaluke's Leap— Mosque of Mohamet Ali — Island of CONTENTS. X Pago. Rhoda — Moses in the Bulrushes — The Nilometer — Joseph's Granaries — The Egyptian Museum — Shoobra Gardens — A Mahometan's Para dise—Heliopolis, the " City of the Sun "—The Virgin's Sycamore Tree— Dancing Dervishes— Whirling into High Seats in Paradise, 43

Chapter IV. Memphis And The Pyramids

El Kaherah — The Nile — Ancient Knowledge of the Egyptians — Lost Arts — Visit to Memphis and Sakharra — An Early Start — Rival Boatmen — Sand-Storm in the Desert — The City of the Pharaohs — Temple of Apis — Mariette Bey — Cemetery of the Sacred Bulls — Lunch among the "Old Masters" — An "Antique" Factory — Typhoons at Sea and Siroccos on Land — Pyramids of Ghizah — A Left-handed Regiment — Fertility of the Soil — Old Cheops — Up we go ! — Sunrise from the Summit — The Heart of the Great Pyramid — The King's Chamber — The Sphinx — A Nubian Type of Beauty — No Immortality from Piles of Stone, 59

Chapter V. Cairo To Port Said

An Unexpected Delay — An Old Pasha an his Travels — Many Wives bring Many Cares — A Nubian Eunuch — Egyptian Railways — Thc Sweet-water Canal — Zag-a-Zig — A Showy old Turk — An Amusing Skirmish — Sanded Up in the Desert — Arabs and Arabic — Ismailia, the Deserted Village — " Water is Gold " — Ferdinand de Lesseps — " Have a Shine, Sir * " — Steaming on the Canal — A Possible Explosion — Port Said, the " Silver Gate to the Orient " — A " California " Town that knows no Sabbath — Thc Arab Juggler Performs the Egg- Trick, 71

Chapter VI. Port Said To Jerusalem

A Night on the Mediterranean — The Americans Fraternize — Bishop Harris — Jaffa, the Ancient Joppa — Noah, Andromeda, The King of Tyre and the Queen of Shcba, Simon the Tanner, Jonah, and Napoleon — The American Colony and its German Successor — Rolla Floyd — "Wanted, aBergh" — Jaffa Oranges — Ramleh, the Ancient Arimathea — Our Landlord an Office-seeker — An Early Start — The Bishop Leads the Van — Gateway to the Plain — The Inn-keeper, with a " smile so child-like and bland" — Weary Pilgrims — A Good Old Methodist Hymn — Godfrey de Bouillon — We Pass the Jaffa Gate, CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER VIL THE HOLY CITY.

Page. Biblical Lore not my Specialty — Cleanliness next to Godliness — Topography of the Holy City— The Best of it Under-Ground— The Holy Places mostly Pious Frauds — The small Area Within the Walls — A Bird's-Eye View — Pool of Hezekiah — Tower of David — Hospital of St. John — The Greek Hospice — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Turkish Guards — The Holy Sepulchre — An Affecting Scene — The " Centre of the World " — Sword and Spurs of Godfrey de Bouillon — Via Dolorosa — St. Veronica — The Mosque of Omar — Mahometan Traditions— "Pillars of Proof"— The Test Not Conclusive— The Golden Gate — A Relic of the Mosque, 91

Chapter VIII. Jerusalem, And Our Return To Jaffa

Visit to the Mount of Olives — A View Unequalled in the Holy Land — The Stolen Footprint — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — House of Martha and Mary — The Identical Fig Tree — The Scene of the Last Supper — Armenian Convent — A Beautiful Missal — The Jews'Wailing Place — Farewell to Jerusalem — The Octroi Duty — Last View of the Holy City — A Dismal Ride — A Sinner on his way to Confession — I Assume the Bole of a Preacher — He becomes humble and Penitent — Once More Entertained at the Gateway to the Plain — Human Nature Not Totally Depraved — The Russian Convent at Ramleh — Hospitality of the Monks — Morning Ride to Jaffa — The Decoration of the " Red Jerusalem Cross," 103

Chapter IX The Suez Canal

An Accomplished Fact — Sketch of its History — Reasons Alleged for its Failure Bugbears Exploded — Is it a Financial Success ? — Rates of Xoll — New Line3 of Steamers — The Business of 1873 — The Tides — Width, Depth, and Rate of Speed Allowed — Lake Menzaleh — Mammoth Dredging Machines — A Unique View — A Ship in the Desert — Lake Timseh — The Bitter Lake — A Ready-Made Canal — We Reach guez a. Town as old as the Pharaohs — No Pleasant Greeting to the Red Sea Why Called "Red" — The "Crescent and Star" — The Water never Smooth and Clear — Pharaoh's Chariot Wheels not to be Seen, CONTENTS. XII

Chapter X. On The Red Sea

PflffC Dangerous Navigation— The Gateway of Tears— The Wind Always Ahead— Our Steamer Named after a Hindoo Goddess— Mount Sinai in Sight—" Dolce Far Niente "—Jeddah, the Port of Mecca— Yusef Effendi— The Sacred Banner— Mohamet Benaji— Pilgrimage to Mecca —We Visit the Governor and the Prince of Zanzibar— Elaborate Speeches— The Tomb of Eve— A Moslem Tradition— The Prince and his Harem come on board— Not Visible to Outsiders— The Persian Pearl-Merchant— Pearls of Great Price— The Prince's Treasures —"Right, Left, and Ace"— I Decline an Invitation to Zanzibar- Mocha, the " Coffee City "—How the English Acquired Perim, the Key to the Gateway, _ j23

CHAPTER XL MAHOMET AND HIS RELIGION.

A Tempting Proposal, but Declined for the Present— Mecca, Mahomef s Birth-place— Medina, his Tomb— His Coffin Rests upon the Earth— The Descendants of Ishmael— Their Plea for Robbery— Traditions of Mecca— A Stone from Paradise— Early Life of Mahomet— His First Convert— Persecution and Flight— The Hegira— His Religion Enforced with the Sword— Its Rapid Spread Over the East— The Doctrines of the Koran— Its Sensual Teachings— " Bismillah "— Moral Precepts and Religious Duties— Practices and Ceremonies —The First Temperance Reformer— The Hadji's Prayer— A Dress- Parade— Persian Poem— The Pearl-Merchant— The Prince and the Howadji, 136

CHAPTER XIL ADEN.

The Gibraltar of the Indian Ocean— We Meet the Remains of Dr. Livingstone— Interviews with Jacob, his " Nassick Boy "—A most Faithful Servant— His Account of Livingstone's Death— His long Journey to the Coast— Aden, the Picture of Desolation— Amphibious Arabs— Street Gamins— The Parsee Merchant— Steamer Landing- Excursion to the Town— A Dilapidated Equipage— John Chinaman —Trains of Camels— An Abyssinian Exquisite and his Bride- Description of the Reservoirs— The Bazaars— The Climate of Aden a Suggestion of the Hereafter— We part with the Prince of Zanzibar —A " Peg in the Coffin " of English Officers, . . . . j49 CONTENTS. XIII

CHAPTER XIII. ON THE ARABIAN SEA.

Page. Good-bye to Aden — Life at Sea — The Yankee Sea-Serpent — Flying- Fish and Porpoises — Muscat — The Streets and Bazaars — The Sultan's Palace — His Body-Guard — An Unenvied King — Under English Protection — Novel Auction Sale — The Naval Squadron — Assisted by English Gunboats — Near View of the Forts — "Ormus and Ind" — Bundar Abbas — Lingeh — Reception of the Hadji, Abdul Assiz — He Safely Lands his Lu-lu — The Pearl-Fisheries — How they are Managed — A Valuable Fruits — Lingeh to Bushire — The " Land of Roses, Poets, and Nightingales," 160

CHAPTER XIV. PERSIA.

Iranistan, the Land of the Shah — Its Climate — Picture of the Towns and Villages — Persian Costumes — A Convenient Disguise — Beauty a Poetical Myth — Situation of Bushire — English Cannon have Left their Mark — Darya-Beg, the " Lord of the Sea " — The Arsenal —A Yankee Gun — Persian Soldiers — How they Secure their Back Pay — Wind-Towers— Jealousy of Foreigners — The Telegraph — A Costly Message — Persian Carpets — How they are Made — A Devil in Limbo — Water Carriers — Postage-Stamps — A Bright Idea — A Persian Mint — The Shah's Carriage — Island of Karnak — The Key of the Persian Gulf — A New Route to India — The "Wandering Jew "of the Mahometans, 170

CHAPTER XV. TURKISH ARABIA.

Approach to the Euphrates — The Invisible Banks— Mesopotamia — Fau — Mahomrah — Sheik Jarbah — The Young Sheik — A Boat Excursion — The "Bellum" — An Unwelcome Guest — Bassorah — Running the Quarantine — English Merchants — Captain Carter, the English Sheik — A Warm Welcome to Marghil — A Pet Lion — Musselman and Infidel — Exports from the Euphrates — The Garden of Eden — River Scenes on the Tigris and the Euphrates — The Bedouin's Tent; — An Arabian Horse — Ezra's Tomb — The Sportsman's Paradise — We cannot Bag a Lion — Ctesiphon and Seleucia — The Barber and the Mule Driver of the Prophet— The " City of the Caliphs " in Sight, . .180 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVL THE CALIPHS OF BAGDAD.

Page. Bagdad in its Glory— A Picture of Barbaric Splendor— Sketch of the Caliphs of Bagdad — The early Successors of Mahomet — Abu- Beker— Omar, the Second Caliph— His Visit to Jerusalem— His frugality and Simplicity of Manners — Conquest of Syria and Persia — The Greek Emperor and the Caliph — Othman — Ali, the " Brave and the True" — Sects among the Moslems — Sonnites and Sheahs— Hassan, the Grandson of Mahomet — Moawiyah — Ommiades, the " Caliphs of Damascus "—Rapid Advance of the Crescent — Charles Mattel— The Abassides, " Caliphs of Bagdad"— Haroun-al-Raschid— The Mæcenas of the East — Royal Munificence — The Later Caliphs — Dissolution of the Empire of Mahomet — Bagdad Captured by the Moguls— Last of the Sacred Race— The Sultan now " Commander of the Faithful," 198

CHAPTER XVII. THE CITY OF THE ENCHANTRESS.

Approach to Bagdad— Views of the River Front— The Residency- British Gunboat and Sepoys— The Goopha— A Unique Boat— The Kallek— Pasha's Palace— Arsenal— Half a Mosque— No Cook's Tourists—A Bird's-Eye View— Kaithmain— Tomb of Zobeide— Akker Goof— A Peep over the Scenes— Dwellings Unroofed— Domestic Life —Houses and Streets— Minar of the Storks— Reverent Birds— An Eclipse— Driving Away the Evil Spirits— Fakeers and Dervishes- Professors of the Black Art— Religious Jugglery— Repudiated by Intelligent Mahometans— Superstition of the Common People, 210

CHAPTER XVIII. STREET SCENES IN BAGDAD.

The Bazaars, Marketplaces, and Coffee-Houses— The Water-Carriers— Female Costumes— Beauty or Ugliness Safe Behind a Mask— A Glittering Picture— The Turkish Merchant— Camels, Mules, and Donkeys—The Narghileh— Persian Tobacco— Arabian Coffee— How it is Prepared— "Mocha" the only Variety— All others Classed as "Beans"— Social Amusements— Story-Tellers— An Incident in Damascus— Backgammon— I Play with an Arabian Gentleman— I Lose and Propose to Pay the Score— Expressive Pantomime— Cheap Recreation— Honesty without a Precedent in Christian Lands— The Corn-Market— Date-Palms— Mahomet's Injunction— Bassorah Dates Unknown in America— A Delicious Fruit ,222 CONTENTS XV

CHAPTER XIX. THE PASHA OF BAGDAD.

Page. A Despotic Ruler over a Large Province — Inundation Threatened — The Pasha Equal to the Emergency — The Whole Population Impressed — My Credentials from the Grand Vizier — A Formidable Document — My Visit to the Pasha — The Fez — In Bagdad worn only by Turks — The Palace — Guards Everywhere — The Interviews — Personal Appearance of Redif Pasha — Complimentary Speeehes — I Decline a Guard of Soldiers — Venality and Corruption of Officials — Improbable Stories — The "Far East " not Unlike the " Far West " — Dishonesty the Exception, not the Rule — The Christian Churches of Bagdad — An Armenian Bishop — " Yankeedonia," an Arabic Word — A Jewish Family— The Wealth of the Jews their Protection — The Ex-King of Oude— The Richest Man in Bagdad, 232

CHAPTER XX HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ARABS.

Their Courtesy and Politeness — Morning Salutations — Scurrilous Language V^ry Rare — The Beard Always Worn — Hardy Children — Rite of Circumcision — Hospitality, an Ancient and Hereditary Virtue — Under no Circumstances to be Violated — Robbery no Crime — An Arab's Property — Courtship, and Marriage Ceremonies — The Bride Sometimes to be Caught: — She Scratches and Bites like a Vixen — But only for Show — The Husband Pays for the Wife — Widows and Divorced Women Half-Price — Song of the Lover, Rather Rough on the Father — Divorce Made Easy — Funeral Ceremonies — Arabian Horses — Their Beauty, Intelligence and Speed — Description of a Famous Breed — Their Wonderful Endurance — National Dress of the Arabs — Picture of a Bedouin — Characteristics of the Race — Customs Unchanged for a Thousand Years, 245

CHAPTER XXI. EXCURSION TO BABYLON.

Once a Garden, now a Desert — Danger from Flood and Pestilence — The Start— Yusef, the Guide — Hassan, the Muleteer— How to Pack a Mule — Inventory of my Outfit — Caravans and Bedouin Horsemen—A Gallop over the Plain— The Caravanserai— The Hotel of the Desert— No Snubbing by the " Gentlemanly Clerk"— Fording a Wallah— A Nawab on his Travels— A Hot Ride— Exhibition of Mirage— We Reach Moseyib — Hillah declared in Quarantine— A CONTENTS. Page. Dilemma— Yusef s Philosophy, "No Fear it, No Catch it"— I decide to go Ahead — Battle-Field of Cunaxa — Anabasis of Xenophon — A Night on the Kerbella Canal — Pleasant Fancies and Reflections — Recollections of the Plague of 1831— A Frightful Picture of Suf fering — A Pasha of Bagdad begging for Bread — Sleep at Last — Awake in Kerbella, £54 CHAPTER XXH.

HOSPITALITIES IN KERBELLA. Arrival at Kerbella — A Hospitable Reception — The Nawab's Palace— . Shrines of Kerbella — Mosque of Abbas — " Clay of the Saints " — Indian Nabobs as British Subjects — Visit in State to the Bazaars — We Call on the Ex-Queen of India — A Royal Indian Entertainment — Sweetmeats and Hubble-Bubbles — Babylon as Described by Herodotus and Benjamin of Tudela — The Ruins, as they appear To-Day — The Three Great Mounds — Last Relic of the Hanging Gardens — An Arab Tradition — Daniel's Lion — The Birs Nimroud, or Tower of Babel — Burial-Place of Ali — I Commence my Retreat — Stopped by a Turkish Governor — Alarming Intelligence — Ordered Back to Kerbella — I am Inside the Quarantine, 267

CHAPTER XXIII. THE RETURN FROM BABYLON.

Inconvenience of not Knowing Turkish — I invite the Governor to taste English Beer — A Happy Thought — He Returns with me to Moseyit) — Bass's Ale as a Solvent — The Governor Melts — Winning my Way — Effect of English Arrack in Small Doses — Undeveloped Musical Talent — A Medley of Songs — Great Applause — Invited to dine with the Governor — We reach Moseyib — How Turkish Officials Transact Business — Suspicious Circumstances — The Force of Habit — Dinner a la Turque — A Picture for an Artist — A Moonlight Flitting — " The Desert is Liberty" — An Arab Breakfast — Fording the Stream — A Refreshing Bath — Convenience of an Umbrella — Bagdad in Sight — A Warm Welcome, 279

CHAPTER XXIV. NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS.

Difficulties in the Way of my Visiting Nineveh — The Site of that Ancient City — Savans disagree as to its Size — Sketch of Modern Explorations — Inscriptions upon the Walls of its Palaces — The Cunei- CONTENTS. XVII Page form Language — An Unknown Character of an Unknown Tongue — Significance of the Word "Cuneiform" — Ancient Civilization of Assyria and Egypt — Biblical Accounts confirmed by Modern Discov eries — The Behistun Rocks — Records of Darius, "the Great King" — Peculiarities of Cuneiform Writing — Bricks of Babylon and Nineveh — Translation of a Babylonian Cylinder — George Smith, the Discoverer of the " Deluge-Tablets " — His own Account of this Remarkable Discovery — His recent Book of "Assyrian Explorations" — Extracts from the Flood Series of Legends — The Chaldean Account of the Deluge, 28°

CHAPTER XXV. VISIT TO THE PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

I take leave of the Pasha — A Pleasant Interview — A Suggestion to President Grant — Euphrates Valley Railway — Invited to Visit the Public Institutions — The Pasha's Barge — Arsenal and Machine Shops — The New Steamers — The " Tale of a Traveler" — A Military Hospital — An Accomplished Turk — The Palace — Beautiful Horses — The Industrial School — Midhut Pasha — A Wise and Honest Ruler — No " Story with a Moral," but something better Substituted — Cheers for America — The Printing-Office — A Newspaper in Turkish and Arabic — An Official Organ without Politics — Suspension Bridge Wanted — A Chance for American Engineers — The Barracks — Hope in the Future for Young Bagdad, Ko">

CHAPTER XXVI. SOCIAL LIFE OF NATIVES AND FOREIGNERS.

Climate of Bagdad — In Cellars by Day, and on the Roofs at Night—- No Ice — Cudjees a Substitute — Population and Currency — Antiques from Babylon and Nineveh — Slavery among the Mahometans — No Colorphobia — White Donkeys — The Pariah Dogs — Noises of Bagdad — Abdallah Advertising his Band — Municipal Regulations — Social Life among the English Residents — The English Minister, Colonel Herbert — Dr. Colville — Officers and Civilians — No Hotel — Americans Rarely Seen — A Dubious Compliment — A Day's Routine — Story by the Abbe Hue — "Our American Cousin's" Experience of Bagdad Hospitality — Routes Home — The Dromedary Mail — Foundered in the Desert — The Only Line of Retreat for the Writer, . . 298 o CONTENTS. XVIII CHAPTER XXVH. FROM BAGDAD TO BASSORAH. Page. Farewell to Bagdad— Night Scene— The "City of the Enchantress" Disappears — Seleucia — Ctesiphon — Coal from England — Novel Receipts for Specie — Seals instead of Signatures — A Young Arab Chief — Story of Abdul-Kareem — Betrayed by his Friend — Executed without Trial — Arab Hatred of the Betrayer — Abundance of Game — Shooting Wild Boars — How they are usually Hunted — An Ugly Customer — Lively Sport — My Breech-Loader Ahead of the ' ' Enfield " — Fig- Leaves from the Garden of Eden — " A Thousand Welcomes to Marghil " — How I Passed the Time There — The Lonely English Wailing Jackals — Trip in a Mashoof— Climate of Bassorah — The Shammal — Arrival of the Mesopotamia — The Steamer's Cargo — Through Tropical Seas in Midsummer — A Trying Journey Before Me, 314 CHAPTER XXVTII.

FROM BASSORAH TO EUROPE. Our Last Night at Marghil — Song and Story — My "Younger Brother's " Farewell — A Dilapidated Blockade-Runner — Good-Bye to the Euphrates — In the Persian Gulf — Life at Sea — Bushire — The Persian Cat and the Buhl-Buhls — Narrow Escape for Both — The Example of Sinbad — For us no Roc's Eggs, nor Valley of Diamonds — In the Indian Ocean — The Monsoon — Dangerous Currents — We Strike at Night on the Arabian Coast — Darkness and Confusion — The Scene from the Deck — The Maltese Steward — He Suddenly Becomes Devout — "Scrap-Iron in Half an Hour" — Life Preservers of Little Use— "Get Ready to Pass In Your Checks "—The Ship Draws Off— We are Saved — The Life Boats — Our Chances of Escape Discussed — Recklessness of Sailors — Short Supply of Coal — We Reach Aden — The "Deerhound" — A Rebel Tender Turned Smuggler — Up the Red Sea to Suez — Across Egypt in Summer — Venice to London Adieu, Illti^tfk-tion^.

Market-Place ik Bagdad, . mmtupiece. "All Aboard," > - 23 The Hobse-Mabines, • . . «, - 26 "Just Ashore," - • . • - 34 Egyptian Peasant Ploughing, • • • - 37 The "Wife of a Pasha, - • . • 40 The Aeab Juggles, - • • • - 43 A Caibo Institution, - - . . 45 OssD Abraham Comes to Grief, - . - - 48 Mosque of Mohamet Ali, - - (puii-Page) 51 Obelisk of Heliopolis, - - • - - 56 The Sphinx, ---.-. 59 Climbing the Gbeat Pybamid, - ■ •• - 68 "Baksheesh II Baksheesh!!" - . . 71 The Eunuch, - - - . . -72 "Have a Shine, Sib?" • • . . 78 The Rascally Landlobd, - •. . -82 Cabavan fbom Jaffa to Jerusalem, • • 86 The Jews "W ailing-Place, . . • - 91 East End of South "Wall, Jerusalem, • iFuii-Page) ILLUSTRATIONS. XX Page. The Holy Sepulcher, • ■ • (Full-Page) 98 The Golden Gate, - • • • - 101 Leaving Jebusalem, - - • - - 103 Jebusalem from the Mount of Olives, - (FuO-Page, 105 The Octboi Duty at Jaffa Gate, • - - 109 A Stbeet in Jebusalem, - - - - 114 On the Suez Canal, .... - 115 The Steamer in the Desert, - - •■■ 120 The Arab Merchant, .... - 123 Interview with Prince Hammoud, - - - 131 The Bedouin Sheik, ..... 136 Mahometan at Prayer, - - ■ - 147 A Strong Contrast, . . . . 149 Ostrich Feather-Dealers at Aden, • - 153 Down Grade, ...... 155 The Sultan's Guard, - - - - 160 Fort and Harbor of Muscat, - - (Pull-Page) 163 Sword Auctioneer at Muscat, - - - 165 A Little Devil in Limbo, - - - - 170 Water-Carriers in Persia, - - - -177 On the Tigris, - - -a - - 180 Ezra's Tomb on the Tigris, - • - (FuU-Page) 187 Shooting Lions from the Boat, .... 190 The Arch of Ctesiphon, . . .

(.Full-Page) 195 Bagdad in the Distance, • . . -197 A Saracen "Warrior, • • * .198 Bagdad dj its Glory. • • . . . ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI Page. An Arab of the Desert, - . ■ .- - 209 The Minar of the Storks, . • - - 210 View of Bagdad, - - - (Full-Page) 211 The Eclipse, — Frightening away the Jin, - - 219 Whirling Dervishes, - - - - - 221 Narghilehs and Chibouk, .... 222 Damascus, ...... 229 Testing Mahometan Honesty, .... 230 The Oriental Fez, ..... 232 Walls and Moat of Bagdad, - - (Full-Page) 235 The Pasha of Bagdad, - - - - 238 My Servant Yusef, - - - - - - 245 Bedouin Stealing his Bride, . . ■ 248 The Start for Babylon, - = - - 254 The Hotel of the Desert, - . = -259 Date-Palms, - - - - - -267 Ancient Lamps from Babylon, - - - 272 Antique Vases, - - - - - - 273 Daniel's Lion, - - - - - 274 Bibs Nimroud, ....

(Full-Page) 275 English Beer as a Solvent, - - - 279 Fording the Stream, - - - - - 287 Deluge Tablet, ..... 289 Sennacherib, - » ° - • - 291 Babylonian Brick, ..... 298 Insceiption from Cuneiform Cylinder, - • -299 Ancient Hakps from Assyria, - ■ - ILLUSTRATIONS. XXII Page_ "Boys will be Boys," • • • - - 305 "Three Cheers for America," - • • 311 The Ruined Mosque, - - • - 313 Abdallah Advertising his Band, . . 314 Antique Coins, - - - . - 316 Arab Beggar, ..... 320 Interior of English Residency in Bagdad, (Full-Page) 321 The Dromedary Mail, - - - - 326 The Young Arab Prince, - - - - 328 Hunting the Wild Boar, .... 332 The Bedouin Guard, • - - (Full-Page) 335 Ancient Seals, ..... 340 After the Buhl-Buhls, ..... 341 Get Ready to Pass in Your Checks, - .